I like the video, I have been building rear diffs professionally for over 25 years. 2 things that are missing. 1st once you have your backlash correct, you need to add a little more shim to both sides of your carrier. This is called carrier bearing preload. Without this preload you carrier will get loose as the bearings break in. Same reason you have pinion preload. If that diff ever gets noisy, this is why. Once it does you will need to start over with new gears. I would say you need an additional 10-15 thousandths total. So half of that per side. 2- the side of the tooth I saw with the marking compound was the coast side, I couldn’t see the drive side.
When doing the preload on the pinion and career bearings, is it a good idea to do the checks with lightly oiled bearing or just set up with dry bearings?
Hey. I have a question. I took a part a 1971 Olds cutlass rear end to replace the bearings I needed mark the bearing caps need to know how I can know I put the right one on the right bearing and if there are on up side down or right. They have arrow on the caps do the arrows point to the axle or toward the 3rd member.
I’m building a 12 bolt, I didn’t use crush sleeve, I used a spacer and shims, what I’ve read pinion preload should be @25ip? Video was informative though
You made sense to me who has never done that before... Thank you 👍
Hello sir, after watching several videos of setting up the pinion gear-carrier group, your video is the Best straight forward video! Great job
Thanks. Appreciate it.
I like the video, I have been building rear diffs professionally for over 25 years. 2 things that are missing. 1st once you have your backlash correct, you need to add a little more shim to both sides of your carrier. This is called carrier bearing preload. Without this preload you carrier will get loose as the bearings break in. Same reason you have pinion preload. If that diff ever gets noisy, this is why. Once it does you will need to start over with new gears. I would say you need an additional 10-15 thousandths total. So half of that per side.
2- the side of the tooth I saw with the marking compound was the coast side, I couldn’t see the drive side.
Thanks for the info. I’ll double check
When doing the preload on the pinion and career bearings, is it a good idea to do the checks with lightly oiled bearing or just set up with dry bearings?
Great tutorial! Thank you.
Thanks man. Great video
Thanks
i did my posi 3 years ago, ive got side to side play now, im going to add some shims. thanks for the video, a little more volume would be great
Crush sleeve is such a pain. Spacer is way easier
Very helpful thanks
Glad it helped
Hey. I have a question. I took a part a 1971 Olds cutlass rear end to replace the bearings I needed mark the bearing caps need to know how I can know I put the right one on the right bearing and if there are on up side down or right. They have arrow on the caps do the arrows point to the axle or toward the 3rd member.
I’m building a 12 bolt, I didn’t use crush sleeve, I used a spacer and shims, what I’ve read pinion preload should be @25ip? Video was informative though
Thanks. I used what I had and I was unaware of spacers when I did it. Crush sleeve is what I’ve always done. 👍🏻
Where did you purchase the pinion depth tool
Summit
Is this a factory locker?
No
How to Chang the guiars of a spring posi for a thing axol to a thicker one
Buenos días me gustaría tener el vídeo en español gracias
I can't watch this guy i feel asleep.
LOL. I have channels saved just for this. When I need a nap. Thanks though
Definitely not your best work.