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$2700 delivered at the time of this video in 2020, EXACT SAME LIFT IS NOW $4100 driving 4 hours to pick mine up.

Great tutorial! Thank you.

i did my posi 3 years ago, ive got side to side play now, im going to add some shims. thanks for the video, a little more volume would be great

Hello sir, after watching several videos of setting up the pinion gear-carrier group, your video is the Best straight forward video! Great job

You made sense to me who has never done that before... Thank you 👍

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Very helpful thanks

I’m building a 12 bolt, I didn’t use crush sleeve, I used a spacer and shims, what I’ve read pinion preload should be @25ip? Video was informative though

I can't watch this guy i feel asleep.

Hey. I have a question. I took a part a 1971 Olds cutlass rear end to replace the bearings I needed mark the bearing caps need to know how I can know I put the right one on the right bearing and if there are on up side down or right. They have arrow on the caps do the arrows point to the axle or toward the 3rd member.

Where did you purchase the pinion depth tool

Buenos días me gustaría tener el vídeo en español gracias

How to Chang the guiars of a spring posi for a thing axol to a thicker one

best video i’ve seen.. Will be doing a conversion on my 68 SWB C10

Definitely not your best work.

So much work

Is this a factory locker?

There is a little known trick to gain more caster by modifying the lower control arms pivots shafts. The hole on the shaft dictates the location of the entire lower control arm. It can be relocated further back, pushing the control arm forward, gaining almost 3-4 degrees more caster. Position it on the bottom perches and move for and check for clearance on the bushings, stops and all parts that move with it. Mark a spot back 3/8th of an inch or more, grind a tiny flat spot, drill a new hole starting with smaller to larger drill bits. It will fit the pin and the perch while placing the lower control arm further forward. This is extremely helpful for steering feel if adding power steering and aids in returnability. I am sure you are long done with this build, but others may benefit as well having less shims, no expensive aftermarket control arms and you don't need a drill press. Settings; Right 4 degrees Left 3.3 Best of luck! ASE Master tech since 1978, retired. (I was looking for part 4 of the firewall build)

This absolutely makes me happy about the lack of rust everywhere on my 1967 C10. Wow! Water, leaves, helicopter seeds, just everything finds its way down the side vents. Plus, in the factory, there is no paint, no dipping in 1967 and few places for seam sealer. You have built it! It should be yours and that's for sure. ASE Master, 1978-Retired

Nice video very helpful! Do you know what size brake pads they are i have a C20 with a front disc brake conversion and i have no idea what brake pad size they are wondering if its D52?

Lot of work or fun for only 16 gal tank. thank you for sharing this video.

So year later just asking where's the pick up for the gas out? Thank you for sharing this video.

Whoa seems like a lot more work than just buying a replacement cowl and doing just spot welds, that way could clean whole underside channel out.

I like the video, I have been building rear diffs professionally for over 25 years. 2 things that are missing. 1st once you have your backlash correct, you need to add a little more shim to both sides of your carrier. This is called carrier bearing preload. Without this preload you carrier will get loose as the bearings break in. Same reason you have pinion preload. If that diff ever gets noisy, this is why. Once it does you will need to start over with new gears. I would say you need an additional 10-15 thousandths total. So half of that per side. 2- the side of the tooth I saw with the marking compound was the coast side, I couldn’t see the drive side.

Crush sleeve is such a pain. Spacer is way easier

Great video, would you mind telling me some of the distances. The ones I was wondering is, the one between the column and the wall, also the space you left in one in front and in the back.Thanks a lot for tour time.

Holy cowl! That's some serious tear down. Yes spot welds are a pain to take off even with spot weld remover bit.

they make that piece now.

Very good Review Sir. Thank you for your time.

Would you please give my youtube channel a subscribe

Now there's a tool upgrade I wish I could afford! Awesome!

I'm gonna be filling in the vents...I'm upgrading to ac, so the vents won't be used anyways...all they ever did was blow leaves & dirt into the cab, so I won't miss them...

If it's titled as a 69, then a previous owner probably swapped the hood & grille to make it a 67-68 in appearance & did a disc conversion on the front...I'm building a 69 long bed...good start on your project...👍🏿

You have the upper ball joint bolts in backwards , The nuts should be on top to avoid rubbing on the grease boot .

Nice job and you are like a lot of us if you don’t bleed you aren’t done lol.

Nice video Sean

👍👍👍NICE WORK IM PLANNING ON MOVING THE TANK OUT OF THE CAB BUT WAS THINKING OF USING A 1996 F150 REAR TANK BUT THIS LOOKS GOOD TO

Thanks man. Great video

Takes time for a hard working man to build his dream!! Second chances my man!!

Ive also been making a how to series pretty in depth on how to restore the 67-72 cabs.. Hopefully it helps some folks. I tried to talk it through step by step...

"I ended up with a jet boat." We've all been there! Great video! How heavy are the vertical posts? Are they light enough to just walk them up to standing by hand?

Where did that tank come from?

Lookin good!

He lives!

Can you get your hands on another set for me? I’ve been looking for both sides

Can you get your hands on a other set for me? I’ve been looking for both sides

What's the length of the bolt holes center to center on the end that bolts to the frame

I just put the very same gas tank in my 1952 Ford F-1 pickup. Had to trim the bottom of the chassis like you did. But I had to remove the factory crossmember forward several inches to allow the tank to fit. Other than that, everything fits like a factory installation.

Good to see you back. Im finally getting to my cab metal work also. Working on DS rocker /corner hopefully within the next week. Replaced A pillar last weekend. Went good. got a thread going asked for help but im just going at it throwing pics up haha

Thanks for the video. Sorry about the heart attack, hope your doing well. I have an a 72 on air ride and I am wanting to do the same as I still have the stock tank behind the seat. Does the mustang fuel level sender work well with the factory fuel gauge in the truck?