GM 12-Bolt rear diff UPGRADE: Positraction and gear swap | Hagerty DIY
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- Опубликовано: 24 дек 2024
- Do you have a whole bunch of power under your hood? Are you only spinning one wheel on those burnouts? Hagerty's Davin Reckow is here to help you solve all your one-wheel peel problems. Our 1969 Chevy Camaro SS just got a freshly rebuilt, modestly hot-rodded engine, and it’s in serious need of a lower gear and some Positraction goodness. Davin goes step-by-step to show you how to swap out your rear end with a burnout-approved limited-slip differential.
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I'm not even half way on this video and I can say with confidence this is by far the best video on RUclips on how to install gears.
Its like a dream come true.
Bernie Sanders I don’t know about your name but I know you are right about this video.👍😃
@@nickoD509 This was great! He said he had that ring rear in and out TWENTY TIMES! It's all about those shims.Much respect.
@@nickoD509 5555555555555555555555555555555555555u
i've done more than a few gear swaps myself(successfully), and even i picked up a couple things from this video.
Always enjoy watching Davin work and the way he explains everything. You can tell he takes pride in his work, and passing on his knowledge.
My father always told me this,
" You can only keep what you know, by giving it away".
Setting a ring and pinion always seemed like black magic to me before this video. Thank you for doing such a thorough job teaching us.
Yellow bottle making fart noises, is the best was to start any video on RUclips. This is an excellent video for upgrade carrier or gear ratio change. As he noted, this was a 3.08:1 ratio. Meaning the drive shaft turns 3 times to every turn of the wheel. Most people come in when they have noise. Changing the gear lube and kept at the correct level is important. I wish the quick lube guys knew this instead of trying to find a $46 PCV valve. The ring gear tosses gear oil thru a tunnel cast onto the pinion breathing’s, as we discussed a ready turn fast and ran somewhat low, will wear quicker. If this is the case, when apart, clean the metal flake out. Don’t forget the axle tubes and outer bearing wells. Spray carb cleaner followed by a rag, pushed inward with a broom handle. The worse it is, rinse & repeat. Air check the case vent on top to make sure it breathes as expansion & expansion occurs has to go somewhere, instead of seals. The outer axle bearing wells do hold gear lube so add some while installing the axles. When full, during long off-ramp turns, gear lube will fill these pockets by centrifugal forces. 1 more reason the keep the lube clean and full while level. Some companies manufacturer expensive high-tech rear covers that drop the temperature of high horse power and pulling trucks. Just keep in mind the most all us, realize that high temperatures break down and destroy man-made additives in GL-5 and others. As one of the best diff videos on RUclips, there are a lot of things to think of. So, if the pinion seal starts leaking on your parking spot, think about the consequences of not fixing it... or least taking your bottle and make fart noise. My question is, who put the muffler in that spot?
GM put all Camaro mufflers in that spot, all generations. Duals are aftermarket.
I can smell the gear oil!
I raced a 12 bolt setup back in the 80s (Moroso Brute Strength center) and was taught that the seal should be left out, bearings lubed with gear oil, moly lube or grease on the pinion nut and washer (to make the crushing easier and preserve the pinion threads), crush the sleeve to spec, (with a Snap-On dial style torque-meter if you have access to one) Once at spec, back off and torque the pinion nut to spec, recheck drag - creeping up on it if needed.
Once the preload is set, dis-assemble to install seal (lubed with gear oil and a little sealer under the washer), then re-torque to spec. If all was well, the preload was accurately set without the seal drag effecting the setting, but you could recheck the drag and it usually went up 15-20 in/lbs with the seal in place.
I always did it this way, and I'm sure you can get away with setting it during final assembly like you did, especially on a street car, but this was the preferred method according to GM and Richmond Gear back in the day. Hope it helps.
Great video
Early on, I could tell that this was the most practical/usable Hagerty video that I have yet to watch!
I had NO idea that the rear seal included in kits these days was a truck seal - that explains the pesky leak I never seem to get rid of - thank-you, thank-you, thank-you for taking the time to speel this out, and give a viable solution!!
I also really appreciated seeing how Davin chose to set up bearing preload, it was so simply, it was a "DUH" moment for me!!
Thanks again!!
This is the best how to do video on automotive repairs I have seen to this day. Specifically on rear differentials and gear changing, up grading axles, or even carrier bearing replacement. I don't know how much was scripted or edited but it was perfect. The explanation from start to finish was for the everyday person, camera filming was clear and on point. They say the Devil is in the details , so when you took the time to show the torquing of the bolts and ramping up in stages to final specified numbers was one of those details where in other shows and videos they skip all the time. I liked your fix for the pinion seal. For most of us without a lift I'm guessing will most likely not have a lathe as well, but you gave the solution we can get a ring or collar machined. I have been a mopar person my whole life and have been spoiled by choice when swapping gears. I would intentionally buy cars with the 8.75 rear end, mostly because it is the best choice for any car with any horse power plus the ease of maintenance. changing the gears is a piece of cake which the 3rd member comes out as one piece, just like the Ford 9 inch. That is really swapping out the pumpkin not breaking down the unit and changing to another ring and pinion like you did in your video. In the past I would swap rear differentials before attempting to change out a set of gears in Dana rear end. Your video has changed my mind about doing a gear swap on a 10 or 12 bolt gm rear end or Chrysler 7.25 or Dana 60. Keep up the good work on your videos.
You were being nice to the new gears and bearings in your burn out right?? I hope so, for a big block on street tires, those should light up and spin until they pop or you let up off the gas. I would think that the life span for the rear tire would be greatly diminished after the posi installation and the lower gears.
I was hoping you were going to show the RPM at 60 mph before and after with the new gears and tires. Also was hoping you were going to put in the new speedometer gear and go over the rule of thumb for ratio of teeth when swapping to larger tires and/or gears. Maybe a quick follow up video?
I watched this video at least 50 times when I was redoing the 12 bolt on my Chevelle. Thank you so much for giving me the confidence to get the job done!
By far the best video on R&R of a 12 bolt axle set. I have a watched a few and have actually done gear changes on the 9" Ford so the concepts carry over. Very well presented in easy to understand terms and instead of spending hundreds of dollars on checking tools you provide a $2 solution. That alone was worth the watch.
You are a very good instructor . You were thorough , precise,and explained everything to the smallest detail that alot of instructors skip over ! Thank you and I will keep this video as future reference .
I drove my old truck for 13 years with the rearend seal leaking just enough to coat the underside of the bed with gear oil. Never enough to worry about... Now I wonder I had that same seal issue. Thank you for all you do! These are absolutely priceless.
I think you are over estimating the ability of most people to set the gears up right. I loved to see the spacer you made to run the truck seal. I set up one set of gears for my 70 chevelle 12 bolt about 10 years ago. I was paranoid that I didn't get the bearing preload on the pinion right. I had a old timer look at my work and said it was about right. A video like this would ensure it is done correctly.
Thank you for the content.
🧰🔧⚙️🔩I KNOW FOR A FACT THE HAGERTY YOU TUBE CHANNEL IS THE SINGLE MOST INFORMATIVE CHANNEL ON THE TUBE!
Quality info that is explained by someone with dirt under his nails not brooks brothers on his feet!
I appreciate all the time and effort everyone at HAGERTY invests in making this kick ass channel
ive been a diesel mech for 35 years ive set up a few diffs in my day this guy knows how to do it right. And probably the easiest way
Between you guys and Ericthecarguy, our knowledge has been enriched, our confidence boosted and our appreciation is beyond words. Thank You!! If I am ever up against this task, you have my back. We all should aspire to help others like you and Eric have done over time. Cheers! Zip~
I really like Eric the car guy also. But, I watched his video on this subject and didn't see him measure the pinion depth. Which I feel is very important. I'm getting ready to put a Yukon in my truck and have been doing alot of research on this subject. This video here in my opinion is the real deal.
If you like them check out South Main Auto and Scannerdanner.
Amen brother!knowledge is power
I love all the detailed information that is included in this video. Other shows would have had this done in 10 minutes of video and glossed over all the important details. Keep up the good work.
That was the clearest explanation of setting the pinion shaft I have come across. I had a new Yukon rearend put in my truck from reputable repair shop and it whines to no end. I know now the pinion shaft is not set correct. Looks like I'm going to fix it myself.
By the way,I am in no way an expert mechanic. But as someone that did this same install (God bless the Haynes manual!) on a 1986 K10 stepside,this guy is my new hero. Honest mechanics rule!!!
I watched this to gain a better understanding of positraction. This guy is real nice and he's an excellent instructor. No sensationalized demeanor with him. I was never bored, and I'm planning to find more videos that Davin Reckow has done.
Change the gears one day and drive it on the same day next day you're on it!! I always thought you had to take it easy up 100 miles? I just changed my gears from a 253 to a 355 getting ready to take it out for the third day baby the thing. So when is it okay to actually get on it?? Was limited slip now a posi
This is one of the best “how to” viedo on how to repair and change the gears on the rear end. Very professional. Mike
I agree with prior comment, this is by far the best instructional video on changing your ring & pinnion and setting up your carrier assembly. He uses language we can understand and explains when each step is completd & what it MUST look & feel like. Thank you!
for heating bearings a electric skillet with whatever oil is laying about can't be beat. good thermostat to maintain whatever temp you want.
Great video! I did this job with the rear end housing on the bench, and was glad I did it this way. I took the time to install new axles/bearings and installed new coils springs, shocks, and a rear disc brake conversion. I took my time and it took me a day and a half. I would not have wanted to do this with the housing in the car.
Great video brother. Great description on setting pinion depth. Wouldnt believe how few guys get the tooth wear pattern correct.
After rebuilding mopar diffs I see why chevys are always breaking, everything is small. Ring gear pinion bearings. Great teacher my man.
My 07 ram 1500 had a vibration in the rear. Checked the yoke and it was loose. So I took cover off to rebuild it and the bolt that holds the pin in the spider gears was broken allowing the pin to slide in and out. This caused the pin to bend and loosened pinion bolt So I was unable to take anything apart. I welder the pin in place tightened up the pinion gear and yoke fresh fluids and It has been good for 6 months now. I did buy a entire rear assembly (axel) to put in (not cheap) but not in a rush. I'm learning as I go!
this whiteboy is by a mile ahead the best youtube tutorial ever on how to install gears, i had like 4-5 doubts about the install process before i came here, now im leaving feeling like an expert, new subscriber for sure
Pinion seal part number RAT-6109 is a car seal and will fit correctly.
Hands down the best posi and gear install vid on youtube
Thanks for this video. Rebuilt my GM 8.2 in my 71 Chevelle. Went with 3.73 gears and Eaton Posi. It was a success thanks to you guys. 🤘
When I changed gear ratios in my 69 SS Chevelle way back in 74, I removed the plates and springs that lock the wheels together and had a heck of a time compressing the plates together and inserting them. The shop manual showed using a couple of C-clamps but they had to be released to get the plates back in. SO, I compressed the plates and springs together with clamps and then tied the plates together with many loops of fishing line through each of the springs. After inserting the plates/springs, I cut the fishing line and pulled it out!! Worked like a champ!
Long time wrench and restorer. Watched a few other videos on this and your is by far the best and clearest explanation on how to do this. Tkx BTW should do a follow up on how you calculated the speedo gear replacement. I stock the entire set but when I did a 70 Chevelle I had to change the other plastic gear on the tail shaft too.
Ran into that seal problem before and a speedy sleeve similar to the one that saved my harmonic balancer saved the day. Not only with a wider, locatable too, sealing surface but in the future neither of us wept again.
Can't believe it took me this long to find this video, this is miles better than any gear swap video and has finally given me the confidence to do it myself.
I think, this has been the best explanation on how to rebuild or lash rear axles. Well done guys!!
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@@darrylwheat6524 jj
Without a doubt the most professional rear end rebuild I have seen yet, THX
Davin, you’re videos are the gold standard as far as I’m concerned. Thank you for the amazing work that you do. My 16 year old son and I have been binge watching your videos during quarantine. Just finished this 12 bolt install masterpiece. Next time I get up North I’ll have to see if you can meet for a beer !
Thanks for watching, Michael!
-Davin
Having done this on many diffs I remove like you showed. To get the pinion flange off sometimes you have to use a 2 jaw puller to get them off.
I like your way of measuring the pinion height. I have always fought them!!!
Though heating bearings I do not like. They press on easily, Just get some pipe to do so.
Fitting the ring gear on,, use some heat, 100F is usually enough. On a hot day leaving them in the sun is enough. Use a couple of cut off bolts as guides. And many ring gears only go on in one position. Check before trying to fit.
I have never struck a short seal, though have never done a 12 bolt!!
Crush sleeves, You can get 10thou shims to go under the old ones so as to reuse. You dont go through your exercise!! And make sure you have plenty of oil on the bearings.
I have an alternative to your tool to hold the pinion. A piece of 2x1/4" with a swing piece to go opposite. Works trick.
A dial indicator is ok for someone doing it the first time, I do them and bearing preload by feel. 3-5 thou more backlash is required for racing applications. Those gears get quite hot. Synthetic oil keeps them far cooler. And makes the gears live longer.
The paint pattern is the drive side of the gear, you have showed the back!
Check the oinion as well.
This is definitely the best video on RUclips on this subject. Thank you.
I did this whole thing twice back about 30 years ago, he nailed quite of few mistakes I made, and learned from. Spot on!
Davin is a wizard. I could watch him rebuild car stuff all day
Great video. I would add to make sure to index the driveshaft and yoke.
Also it’s a good idea to maintain the correct temperature as the factory setup was done, usually 76 degrees Fahrenheit or so. Just check with the manufacturer if it’s not on the card. Get a hot trouble light near it and watch your settings get wonky or set them up in the winter without heat and, same thing.
I always use the pinion holding tool against the frame and a 3/4 drive cross bar with six point socket in a scissor configuration with a jack and a length of 4x4 against the bar to help keep it from flexing and use the jack to tighten or loosen, just have to switch sides for either.
Gives way more control without all the yanking and can be done on jack stands.
I shoot the gear with a infrared thermometer to make sure it stays stable as I do my checks and keep my hands from warming the indicator tool.
Using a spacer kit instead of a crush sleeve is a nice way to go. Also taking half the crush distance off the end of the crush sleeve helps a bunch with that type. There are other trick sleeves also out there.
I use permatex RTV (NOT silicone ) that’s specifically made for gear oil.
Change the fill plug to a female type. Make sure the vent tube is clear. last I weld all the way around the axle tubes where they go into the housing as they are only spot rosette welded and tend to leak and actually can turn if over stressed.
When setting the shims in on final assembly with pre load, I heat the case with a heat gun and spread it just a touch.
A case spreader is nice to have. Just don’t get nuts with it.
I only use the blue lock tight on the cross shaft retainer bolt , and the New pinion nut if not pre applied . Some guys swear by red, but I don’t.
I also usually replace the stock cover with a girdle type. Just cheap insurance.
On a stock cover I flip it over and with the rounded end of a ball peen I’ll place the hole over a socket and peen it back the opposite way. I use a lock washer on a flat washer and as soon as the lock washer crushes I stop. Blue lock tight on the threads of the cover bolt.
They love to leak if not babied.
I use a brass drift and a block of teak wood for the seals pinion nose and races.
I just wish there was an easy way to clean inside the axle tubes and housing.
I’m sure I’m forgetting a thing or two but hope this helps someone.
Everything else in this video is spot on though.
I vaguely knew how to work in a diff, now I see what all is involved. Outstanding job, thank you !!
hands down one of the best step by step out there!!! please do more of this!
Excellent tutorial, this is exactly how I've been doing this for the last 40 years, only difference is that I made the investment early on to purchase a dedicated depth gauge. Thank you for taking so much effort to cover all the bases.
Wow...i felt like i was in a actual car mechanic class in college with lab-time and instructor! Double thumbs up for Davin for a super-cool video!!
I very much agree and I'm a retired mechanic , the problem with S.K.F. seals doesn't surprise me . I've experienced other minor issues myself . take care
Peg leg burn-outs are just never cool. Anyway, i've watched A LOT of gear swap vids on you tube. This is by far the best one going. Clear and concise explanations. Good job on this one guys.
Powerful cars feel helpless if the right rear tire just lifts and spins...
exactly to everything in your comment. Just watch Bullet when the mustang is pealing out it is one tire on bias ply rubber and the rear end is hopping all over the place. Still the greatest car chase scene, but not great PR for the mustang.
@@jamesbetts3371 - Only Burt Reynolds 'Bandit' got posi cars...
@@jamesbetts3371 So did the bad guys Charger do better with the traction ? I know I was impressed how it lost 5 or 6 hubcaps during the chase scene !
You may want to talk to timken about a max temp to heat their bearings. We heat a lot of bearings for a lot different things at work; timken, and skf mostly, and any time there's any kind of discoloration to the bearing that's a no-go do over. My guess is if you asked timken they'd say 225-275f. Above that and you start to affect the heat treat of the bearing.
Opps, 1,000 transmissions in my career. I jusst got lucky, good boss, good crew, sorta and good support. Started in 73, 350’s T-35’s, anything.
I have a 3.42 in my k1500 yukon 4x4 from factory. Great speed available up top. Doesn't automatically want to spin tires when off road. Climbs hills and gets good traction. Probably my favorite gear ratio. I've got a 05 cateye with 4.11 and a 01 yukon XL with 3.73 and the k1500 is my fav
I've been looking at diff rebuild videos for months and this is by far the best. Thank you!
I want to quit my job and work in your shop! Thank you for this detailed video - VERY COOL rear-end gear/carrier swap.
By far the very best illustration on putting gears in... hell, beat illustration on even changing seals.. Thank you!
Thank you for making the video, now I know exactly what to do. A few years back like7, mu tear end had gone out on my way home from Columbus Oh to Pikeville Ky, I heard the roaring noise from the rear passenger side, stopped at a service station and looked under and seen the gear oil covered the inside of the passenger tire, this made it the second time I had to go inside that rear end. So I limped my way back home and the next day went to the boneyard and got another complete rear end. Ok here is the issue, my F150 is a 2004 V6 auto/overdrive. The option I had at the time was to take a rear end from a 97 F150, and a V8 I know a big gap in years but I had no time and it was Christmas Eve so I went for the brass ring, and this rear end has drum brakes. and everything on it in good shape, took me 45 minutes and $80.00 out the door I go. I went to my friend's shop and got busy, Within 2 hours I was on my way home. The boneyard rear end is a Dana 60 ratio I think it is 308, like your project my odometer is off and my OD is good at low speeds but at freeway speeds, you can't feel the difference when I shut the OD off. Would change speed sensor fix my odometer?
This is how all how to videos should be presented! All of a sudden I now "think" I can do this.. Nice easy to understand how to, Great job!
Davin I hate to break it to you but the rotating part is the differential case, either open or posi, that the ring gear is bolted to. The Carrier is the cast iron housing that the diff is bolted into with the bearing caps. I spent 10 years machining these at AAM in Detroit....raw carrier castings in one end, fully machined carrier and caps out the other end ready to be assembled to be Third Members.
you made all this make complete sense now! I was always doubting myself on how to do the pinion depth. Not now. Thanks again! Plus i can now tell my wife I need a toaster oven for the garage hehe
LOL
I enjoyed this one.... I kindly would like to mention, a step that is minor or not a huge issue ...but... when installing the ring gear, and when a few bolts have been started, and the ring is landed on the carrier's mating flange, to take a soft drift punch, and knock the ring rotationally in the forward driven direction that the ring will be under torque loads from the carrier... basically to de-slacken the tiny bit of slop between the bolts and the holes and the threads, then finish torquing the hardware down to recommended specs. Most driving conditions will do this automatically, for forward straight line power driving... Off road axles, "rock crawling", not going to matter, due to the massive amount of forward and reverse loads in extreme load conditions, as per, torquing the slop out in either direction... Let alone, the slower RPM's of sane off roaders.. but, the street racing & drag folks, you do not want that to de-slacken off the line, as it is one heck of a shock wave in the mesh system... Just a thought... As stated, minor issue to add for future rebuilds... Millions of axles have been rebuilt, and this "de-slackening" of the hardware to hole slop, has not been incorporated as a common practice, and been just fine... Thank you for the shared video, I really enjoy this channel, I have learned many clever tips and tricks... Thank you, Dru
I said before, and say again - Davin was the perfect pick for this job.
He's the best! Thank you for watching.
This job is tedious but this is one of the best videos I have seen that explains it in simple terms.
You know he's a pro when there's a calibration sticker on his torque wrench. Way to go man.
I like your style of thoroughness very in-depth on everything, kudos to you.
I’m about to have this done on my 1970 Camaro… But after seeing this I’m not sure I would want anyone other than him doing it. He’s a scientist. I know the guy who’s going to do mine he’s not gonna do a lot of these things…..or maybe even know about them
Very good video for a mechanic to follow on rebuilding a rear differential, one thing I would say though, if you go that far you should change the axle seals too.
Ratech makes the correct seal.
Who else would just sit and watch Davin work on cars all day
That was amazing, I could actually do the job right using this. The metallurgy comment about temp and discoloring is very valid though, you will get the desired expansion at much lower temps without hurting the bearing.
The most thorough how-to video I've seen. Great work Davin. Thank you for taking your time to produce it.
Jerry - It's our pleasure! Thanks for being a fan.
Probably the best Differential Service/ Repair video on RUclips...perfectly explained and executed... although I'm not going anywhere near a Differential...the most I can do is replace an Oil Filter...
I only heat my bearings at 250°f for 15 minutes and I've never had a problem plus you don't burn off the oil on the bearing,,,
Great video.
@33:30 Bearing baking tip: "Broil" setting on an oven only uses the top heating element and is for melting cheese toppings, browning the sauce on your ribs, or broiling meat (which is like grilling, but upside down)
I would recommend the "Bake" setting which uses both upper and lower heating elements and, IMO, heats the bearing more quickly and evenly, locking the delicious juices inside.
Great Video!! I've done this a few times and I still learned A LOT. I know if I have occasion to do it again it'll be easier and better. I remember once using a 3/4 " breaker bar and 6 foot length of pipe on the crush sleeve while the car was on a lift and the car did raise up on one side. You're right, not something to do while on just jackstands!!!
Great video best one of seen on setup.
Only thing that’s lacking is better tutorial on carrier bearing preload. If you are swapping an open diff to an aftermarket setup the aftermarket s run a bit wider, total shim width is going to be different.
In the video you say to add .005 on each side but that leaves a lot of room for error.
I understand that this is an essential step for the life of the bearings.
Through other videos I have absorbed that to accurately measure this you need to know what pinion preload torque is before and after final assembly.
Side bearing preload should equal 15-30 inlbs (depending on vehicle)
This formula below is used to accurately figure out side bearing preload.
Total preload (in/lbs. with the unit totally assembled) minus the pinion bearing preload (with only the pinion assembly) multiplied by the gear ratio = side bearing preload.
If your total preload is 32 in/lbs - pinion preload of 25 in/lbs = 7 in/lbs x ratio of 3.73 = 26.11 in/lbs side bearing preload.
Hopefully this helps someone else, I already ruined a set of carrier races putting way too much preload, luckily I caught it.
What a wealth of information and knowledge. True privilege to bear witness to this. Thank you Davin.
I've always found that. If I'm going through my shim left overs & have many more 30thousand shim. I must never use thirty thousand shims. Make up the ones that are missing the most. You should be able to eliminate a step. Or just start with zero shims.
When I was a kid. We set these up by feel and yellow grease. This it. Went racing with our street cars. Rear ends never scattered or howled. My first faster car was a 56 Chevrolet post car. Went from 330's to 411 to 456. Then to a Pontiac with I think it was 538's. It was low!
All set up by ear & hand. Today they have u-tube & every tool available for pretty cheap prices.
Excellent, natural teacher- on double lip seals always put motor oil between the 2 lips so it lubes/cools between them :) Ive also found when doing rolling torque - its good to give the bearings a whole bunch of turns so the rollers can seat inside the races - usually knocks the rolling off for a while //
+ or - .002 at the Pinion!
Thanks for the Video, remembering back in the day, not having the Precision Tools, but learning from mistakes, building Pos Differentials blind.
Now that's pretty crazy how I'm betting this comment was meant to be on Patricks 69 SS video, yet it ended up on here instead, lol! Am i right? Because I just went from that video to here myself. Sometimes the comments end up on the wrong video while we're typing it as the vid switches. It's done it to me plenty of times. Lol! ▪☆☆☆▪
By far the best instructional video on differential upgrades. Thank you
I keep a few pieces of maple around that allow me to sacrifice something other than the part when massaging with a 3 pound shop hammer. Nicely done video - it's all about the job, not just eye candy of new parts purchased. Next time, use the "turbo" function on that oven - convection air flow will get more even heating - it might let you drop temp to 350 which is handy as most lubricants [if there is any residue before heating] don't do well at 400+F..
One of these days I'll break down and buy a 6:1 torque multiplier for reassembly and setting the crush sleeve/pre-load. Until then... I have a local shop that does reasonably good work - they just won't drop the rear or get it back in.
Best how to set up gears on RUclips.
Takes me back to working in the shop with dad but without the cursing, good job!
Right on the money. Just swapped to a 4.10 and refreshed my knowledge/experience here with this vid. Great job!
The pinion seal for a 12 bolt rear (car) is still available from Ratech part number 6109. Others suppliers carry the Ratech seal but right now they are in stock directly from Ratech for $5.00 plus $5.00 shipping.
Hit up rummage sales, market place, crigslist, or the good will for a toaster oven. I copped mine for $5. Great for installing bearings and for heating small parts before and after painting them.
I rebuilt a nova 12 bolt with an older friend of mine. The pinion preload and backlash were all set with a special tool; his hand.
Ни граверов ни клея , смелый поступок при сборке редуктора,у нас просто в дороге в 1985 году открутился такой болт крепления шестерни, на скорости ,. Это было весело, полный разбор моста , на дороге, на колодах и пнях.ремонт и покупка нового редуктора ,правда он не подошел. В итоге откололи остатки одного сломанного зуба , и доехали на старом редукторе. Машина Москвич 2140, крепкий надежный аппарат.
Great video. I did my 14 bolt Chevy on the side of a steep road on jack stands. Took 2 days. Just to accidentally do a granny gear burnout and shattered the housing. Gave up on rebuilding rear ends after that.
Late to the party here and someone may have said it already.. money for seals is cheap. Change the axle seals while you have it out.. Just preventative do it while it's already apart.
btw, I just made a seal spacer from the old seal.Just cut off the flange of the old one with a sawzall (with a fine tooth blade for metal of course).Could use a grinder to also.Had to file the center a little to fit.Flange measures 1/16th.Enough to make a difference I think or you could use 2.
Thank you! This video is great. This is the first time I’ve had this issue in my 71 SS (that many people tried to tell me it wasn’t a true SS) 🤣
Tighten all ring gear bolts to pull it into place and tighten them by hand. Then pull each bolt back out and lock tite one at a time and snug them then torque them. The purpose for this is because if you lock tite them before the ring gear is pulled tight and seated the lock tight will bleed off in between ring gear and carrier surface and can harden in there and cause run out so they say. Also when putting that hot bearing on pinion or carrier, after it cools look to confirm it is still seated. Alot of times after it cools you will have a gap and will need to press or tap it down to fully seat it.
Amazingly professional, accurate, and informative. Thank you.
It's like the "This Old House" of car mechanics!! More videos like this, please!!
Kevin S. Logan I wonder what the age limit is on who know what this old house means
perfect ! as i am about to tackle a 1987 chevy G-10 rear axle upgrade . im going from a 3.08 open , to a 3.42 posi . although mine is a GM 10 bolt , this DIY is awesome for us do it yourselfers .
Awesome vid and so easy to follow and understand. Maybe all the actual gear vendors should take note and learn how to properly do a R&P install vid. Davin has set the standard once again.
Great video We need more old-school mechanic shops like this around 👍
What a great video all details covered. I was going to take it to a shop but based on your video I think I can do it myself. I have to say, EXCELLENT job!!!
Great video. Very thorough. I havent done one of these in years but now feel fully confident to build my 66 C10 rear.
@16:19. This requires a little thinking to do it my way. If you mic the thickness of the pinion to the surface that the bearing sits on, using the 2.871 plus the number you get, tells you where the bearing should be from the split. I have a small piece of cold rolled, that is. 500 thick. I use a piece of all thread with a washer on the front bearing to remove the slop and seat the bearings. I use a depth micrometer and determine exactly where the split is. It's usually not exactly where the actual split is. I have a small parallel to measure from the split to the .500 block. Measure from the parallel to the .500 block, less the parallel dimension, add .500, split off set, plus or minus. You should be able to calculate the shim size. All bearings have to be low because you can't cut the gear. Set of depth micrometers corrected to size, parallel, and a calculator. If you mic a couple of gears for the same application, I would think you'd get the same number for the bearing depth. This is somewhat like the shop manual does it, but they have preset tools to avoid using micrometers. I worked with mics for years, so second nature to me.
Great video and easy to understand. By far the most trusted explanation out there, but as said before; I'm not keen on the idea of getting the new bearings that hot.
Try a lower temperature for the interference fit bearing. 175-212F is the typical temperature to heat the bearing to avoid softening of the bearing.