I am from Carbondale and I graduated from SIU Automotive in 1973. I went to school with guys like Jack Greer and had some outstanding instructors like Duffy Willy, Jim White and Joe Kazda. Because of this school, I had an unbelievable automotive career with Ford Motor Company for 30 years. I love the videos even though I am now 71 years old because I still love working on vehicles and do so almost every day in my home automotive shop. I never lost the love for diagnosing and repairing.
people always search for the video they need just for a few key points but never like to watch the long video of something as such detail specific crutial steps of something with not only 1 or two but 4 key steps to a correct problem free setup.. as a kid i was always was around my father building personal cars over the years and actually he currently has a 73 camaro and i have purchased a 78 camaro and bought my wife a 78 camaro and rebuilding both 78s i upgraded to a limited slip eaton style unit as my open diff spider gears were eating my cross shaft pin just on 1 end too many 1 wheel peels and making a clunking sound while driving and the amount of information you have taught ensures i will only have to do this 1 time and not have to open the rear end more than 1 time with correct specifications and less worried of problems or noises due to incorrect installation or placement or incorrect shimming. thanks for making a great informational packed video to learn crutial steps to a proper setup... am actually headed to the garage to finish putting in my LSD differential right now...
this is the absolute best instructional video of any kind ive ever watched. im currently swapping from an open 2.73 to a limited slip unit with 3.73. i was lost until watching this video. such a great demonstration. thank you sir!
Wear glasses. Hardened steel can Shatter! Good to hear you say. I'm an Old machinist who took a fragment of tool steel from my lip, and once from the white of my eye, scary. I always use gentle heat when removing bearings. I made a special pinion setup bearing by honing .0005 from the ID of a New BRG to be able to remove it for shim setting. Used it 3 different times for my 12 bolt.
Thank you for putting this information out there. I love when I learn a few more details and common sense on setting up a differential. Its no fun taking a rear end apart repeatedly only working against yourself. Your methodical approach is awesome. Thanks, Terry
Woody Harrelson, I really admired your acting, especially those memorable years on Cheers! It's nice to see that you found such an excellent hobby in your golden years. Keep wrenching!
I have been a DCJ mechanic for 36 years and felt like i was back in a class room again. Love it. After you master all subjects you only get web classes. I miss the class room. The only time you really need to worry about the coast side pattern is when you are doing reverse rotation front axles in 4x4 trucks. You do a great job of teaching the class and remind me of some of the teachers i have had.
I do the ring gear case setup without the pinon in. When you get the right shims with the carrier in and snug up the caps you are suppose to put a inch pound torque wrench on the ring gear bolt and get a rotation reading between 20 to 25 inch for new bearing and 10 the 15 with used bearings. This is the real way to do it. Note it takes time. After you get that during setup you can take away .002 to .004 on each side to get close to your backlash with the pinon gear in. Then add what you took out to get the proper preload on the carrier and check backlash again. The reason for taking side shims away is to make it easy to take the carrier out several times to get close to your backlash. Also a case spreader helps out a lot for hard to get out stuck carriers. Gm had a tool you put in without shims to get the preload then you took the out and mike each one that gave you the shim pack you needed for each side. I never liked them spreading tools myself. If you have done enough of these use a old pinon bearing and use a flapper tool to make the big bearing close to the shim so you can just tap it on to get your pinon setup. Way to easy to wreck a bearing pressing it on and off to many times. I would take the pinon to the tool and die shop I worked at and put the pinon in the lathe and use fine wet sanding paper to get a tap on bearing fit. Did a lot that way and never had a comeback. That way you could use the same bearing to get the pinon deep right. Final assy just put some red locktite and you was good to go. There are a lot more tricks without spending a fortune on tools. Only good tool I hand was the deep setting tool for aftermarked ring and pinon sets which had the deep marked on the pinon. I always used Richmond gears myself. Back in the day it was Schafer gear sets were the best. Zoom gears were junk back in the day. GM gears are to expensive.
Holy crap! I feel like for the first time I am not crazy scared to try this myself. My project is to replace my open diff with a posi, keeping the same gears. 1) My pinion was untouched so, now after your lesson, I’m not worried about the pinion depth. And I understand how to verify the pinion preload. Even though it it probably unnecessary. 2) I have the proper tools and now I understand how to measure backlash and more importantly how to adjust it. And you really simplified getting to the appropriate preload on the carrier bearings.
I know have the confidence to do my Gen 3 Viper with new gears, bearings, seals and a OS Giken Superlock LSD. Thank you for this exhaustive tutorial. Well done sir.
Turn your guillotine 90° so that each red spacer is parallel .... arrrg... you just demonstrated. Recently saw Dave's in Utah made it VERY clear to not stress screw rods. Came here after changing fluid (probably) first time on an 07 trailblazer. It's sloppy, but now has new fluid, seal and drain plug (also known as rear cover!) Your videos have helped me out on past and present cars. I am particular and not content with someone else's 'good enough'. And then half of my small fleet is European and I'm in rural Missouri.
I am that shade tree mechanic, absolutely wonderful in your attention to detail, much more confident in my ability to do this properly after watching this , I've dabbled but this is the sweetness .....if you have any vids on 5.7 chevy engine rebuilding I'd love to have your knowledge in my toolbox , thank you men
Best 2 hours I ever spent here at 4:30am. I'm trying to rebuild my GM 8.2 as we speak! I bought a new posi carrier and bearings, crush sleeve. My original .25 spacers were too tight to use but not by much. At least I know what I'm gonna need in terms of spacers or shims. Thank you for the knowledge and extreme details.
WoW! What a great tutorial for someone who has never even tried to do this myself. I replaced the entire rear end rebuild components. I did it all including a new Differential carrier and watching the details you provided really helped me out alot. THank You SO Much for being so detailed.
Awesome video, we appreciate your time and patience. for those learning when time is money. I prefer to use an air hammer for seals ,races , removal. Everything. use with a point punch to drive the pinion out in the dimple. use with a brass rod and hammer head to remove and fine tune races , use with your bearing installer to start and drive bearings. lots of light blows makes short work of it. very little room for error too.
5 by 5 loud and clear. Thanks so much for an extensive tutorial and it looks like it would be a joy to utilize all that clean space to get some repair and fab work done.
I also commented on his clean shop, I am now inspired to organize our shop for the first time. I am retired at 59 and have the time to do it with my son so he can learn with me. My dad wasn’t into working on things so we get to start something new for our family. Greetings from Washington state. I have a 12 bolt posi unit to install in a rear end from a 1970 Monte Carlo we bought but didn’t need. Good luck!
This is an excellent video. I have been drag racing for a lot of years and set up lots of gears for racers and it's always a pleasure to see a video with this much detail. Thank you for uploading such a fine video.
Seriously, thank you for this video. I have 5,000 miles on my first engine rebuild (5.3 ls) and the truck needs to be re-geared. Dispite getting the thousand pieces of my engine successfully back in working order, this differential has had me scared. Mostly due to the lack of step by step documentation out there. Most everything on the internet is either "throw it together, use some contact paint, and it SHOULD be good to go" or "take it to a professional it was the worst thing I ever tried". I have a few tools to add to my collection, but it definitely seems like something I can do correctly. Thank you. All the question marks are gone.
Your shop is nice and clean. Our shop is nice but it’s a mess. I’ve never had it organized before and we’ve never used it until recently so you’ve inspired me to get it organized. I’d be embarrassed to have anyone see it. It’s 48x48 with a loft and 16’ walls but I need to finish wiring it and installing lights. I’d like to add a lift so we can store another car and work on things with it. Thanks a million from Washington state. I’m 59 and retired and my son is 23 and acts like he is also retired. We are working on 2 66 Chevelles, a 1970 Monte Carlo and his RX8 so we have plenty of projects. I have the 12 bolt out of the Monte Carlo and have a new posi unit and axles to install so thanks for the help! Pat
I am glad I bumped into your channel cause I,m in the. Middle of changing my 66 c10 to a posi rearend... thanks for the class. It will be my first rearend job !!!
I've watched many many videos about the rear differential. I've killed 2 factory differentials. So I'm gonna try to build one. Crazy but I feel way more confident after watching this. Your an awesome teacher. Even threw in some common sense along with some technical. Thank you!
This was an excellent video, very professional, helpful and thorough with an awesome instructor . I've looked through tons of other videos on this subject and this is by far the best I've seen .I learned quite a bit from watching this . Thanks for the upload 👍.
I was always afraid to touch a differential. Only thing more complexed to me is an automatic transmission. This is excellent instruction and information on the GM 10 bolt rear ends. I will be using this as I work on my 94 Camaro. Thank you! From a 68 year old gearhead.
I’m really glad you shared this! I have my gm 8.2 ripped apart and ready for new parts. Your explanation helps a lot!! The initial description of the side preload was a lil confusing at first but the summary at the end helped clear the confusion.
Excellent video!! With the addition of a few tools, I’m much more confident that I can do this. I’ll have to take my time but I’m sure I can do it. Thank you!!
I have a 09 jk x jeep..I'm regear to 4.88. And am going with yukon with new carrier and spider gears..and of course bearings...I'm going to hone out old bearing for set up..everything you've done has been great..I have some mechanical abilities....
Great video! I'll be doing my first install soon and your discussion of carrier preload will be very useful. It's often glossed over. I'm sure I'll watch this two more times and should be able to attack the job with confidence. Thanks!
Thank you and your helper for taking the time out of your day to make such a detailed and informative video. This is extremely valuable and knowledgable information and im very thankful you shared this for others to learn. You guys are great!
At 1:41 you answered the preload question that has eluded me. The investigation and correction when things didn't turn out perfect is gold, and the little side-bars of real world tidbits like using the press and the cast iron spacer add credibility AND keep it interesting. Nice work!
Amazing video. Thank you so much. Still in process of rebuilding my 1971 Chevelle differential but with 2 manuals and this video I think Ill have the confidence to be able to get this job done. Will leave updated comment when I finish. Thanks again!!!
Thank you for this tutorial...well explained an I learned something tonight...and as always appreciate when someone is willing to share an teach there knowledge
Very informative lesson. I now have 0 fear doing my rebuild. I must say although I realize those are for demonstration I cringe when you file parts over open diff.
Great video Sir. I am aa newbie truck enthusiast, area of focus, axles, this was a very good breakdown and much to learn. Thank you for posting. Subd.cheers
Thank you. I'm in southwest Washington and have a '67 C20 4x4 to restore. The pinion shaft seal is leaking so I have to replace it and the hub seals as well. I also have to replace the seals on the front axle. I cringe when you file those shims over the differential cavity.
Awesome video would have loved to see this video a year ago when I did a gear swap. I will be using these techniques to do another gear swap from 4.11 to 4.56 tomorrow. Thanks again for the video please keep them coming.
WOW! Best video ever! I learned so much! I was looking to buy a TandD pinion depth tool,, where you have to go back and forth replacing shims to get it right,,, until,, I seen this tool which deletes that process and tells you the right shim!! Nice tool! QUESTION! I need help! My son goes through rears, 99 3/4 tom Sierra I believe 9.5 if i remember, blew the g80 locker. I purchased brand new NOS one off ebay, exact casting number, (using my same ring gear and gm bearings) went in using original GM solid shims from factory that came out, went in perfectly. The 3/4 ton has and adjuster on the one bearing side! Nice! Pattern was perfect, lash, perfect. Been fine ever since! NOW! my son had 2002 Silverado 1/2 ton 8.6 rear like what you have in this video. Roughly 136k miles, used it to plow over winter. I obviously acquired another of his left overs.. He had to drive home in 4 wheel as the rear shaft was useless. I was hoping spiders. But, it also had a clunk clunk clunk in rear. Spiders were busted,, and when they broken they broken chunk out of carrier. I found a reputable seller on Ebay who sold me a rebuilt carrier, same casting number 149, what I asked for,,, I used same ring gear,, went in beautifully having to tap in the same thick GM shim making it tight like yours, and the lash was perfect again at 5.5 thousandths ! Now, when cleaning out the housing there were a couple of spider chunks jammed a bit in the top oil galley way to the pinion. I believe that was all. I used magnet and air to see if anything else may had been in there, a limited visual inspection (cause you can't see any further down towards the pinion area) as well turning drive shaft by hand, it appeared free of any other debris. Now, back together, good lash and pattern, but clunk clunk clunk still there when test drive and spinning on lift. While on lift it sounds like pinion area! Could a bearing been damaged by a piece of broken gear? And, If I do take pinion out to replace bearings with the same replacement bearings ,, will I still need to replace crush collar??? It sounds like I may have too from your video,, but I want to be sure if I am replacing with all the same as stock like I done with carrier.? It just seems easier to reuse old one if you can?? Thank.. Hope you see this! FOLLOW UP,, pulled it apart. felt slight clunk when turning pinion with carrier still in axles out. Pulled carrier, GM solid shim on pinion side was broken! Pinion spun freely no noise I could feel or hear! So, maybe shim issue? I am concerned because it made this clunk clunk clunk before i redone it all, and the shims were fine at that point! And, my luck,, gm shim kit I have is for smaller bearing. I have to order right kit, or try and find same thickness gm solid shim.. will up date, unless you have other things to look at? thank you! OKY DOKY ,, update! After pullig it all apart, I found and ordered off ebay, the same cast type gm shims. After waiting days to get them, mic it all to be sure,, the damn things broken going back in again. And they dont get caught by anything, the broken pieces fall into the shaft tube, (to who replied below). So,I had also bought the Yukon shim kit! Well, I was not happy due to the thicknesses NOT printed on the shim, and ?i had to play , try the mixture until I got the right size on each size that matched the cast gm shims. Anyway,, Like I stated replying to someone who replied to me,, once out, I found a knicked tooth om the pinion. I used a die grinder to smooth it down to what I believed was close to normal! Got it back together. Had to play with shims a couple of times to get the right ring backlash, and the noise, clunk, was faintly still there. But after driving a bit, eventually went away! So, I believe it was the knicked pinion tooth, and it eventually was worn to not be an issue after a few miles! But, good thing it did make the noise in the beginning, because I learned that cast shim was broken with pieces in the shaft tube that woulda eventually caused me a messed up rear again once they traveled around the rear. So, in my 3/4 ton,, I was able to reuse the gm cast shims on a new carrier , because, the 3/4 ton has a screw out and in adjustment on the pass side of rear that you count the turns out to pull carrier and shims, reuse shims, then count turns of adjuster in reverse on install! But the 1/2 ton,, screw reusing those cast shims and go right to a shim kit like yukon or close. because most likely the cast shims will break and you will not know it until back together and possibly too late . I really hope someone learned or got something out of all this typing and learning I went through! Good luck to you all! And thank to the guys who replied!!
If the pinion spins free and isn’t loose, I doubt it’s your issue. Those cast shims do sometimes break, but they are captured by the caps and shouldn’t cause a problem. Of course if one did make its way out, the diff case would be extremely loose and that would cause major problems. I’d be curious about the spider gears and the cross pin in that used diff. That’s where most clunking comes from in addition to u-joints. Also, are you sure it’s not from the transfer case? Might be worth checking that too.
@@siuautomotive Thanks so much for replying! I pulled the drive shaft off and pulled the cover again and spun pinion by hand and heard, slightly, as well as felt what I believed woulda been my clunk. It did feel as if it was coming from the pinion area! What I am wondering now also is, I found a slight chip in the end of one of the pinion teeth I believe from when the spiders flew about inside. There was also a scored tooth on the edge of the ring I ground down smooth. I also now done that to this pinion tooth. The differential I bought was from 'betperformance' on Ebay with a 100% feedback. He made sure he got me one with the same casting number as I had as i asked! Great guy! It looks brand new inside, all clutches , spiders, and pin! Well, when I pulled the dif out and spun the pinion by hand again,, no spots, spun freely no clunks or noises! So, I am wondering if that broken shim may had caused the ring to be tilted so slightly to cause it? Only thing has me wondering is that it made that clunk before when it blown and had to drive it home in 4x4 on the front axle! I found and ordered a close in thickness new gm shim off ebay, (mine was 5.97, this one 5.91, closest I could finf anywhere) as well as bought a yukon shim kit, and a new iGauging OriginCal Digital Caliper,, and a shim install tool. As soon as I have it all, I am going to reinstall the dif with new shims and see if that cured the clunk. But I am also wondering if that knicked tooth coulda caused that much a clunk?? looking in retrospect.. I been dying for these things to finally get here! Some states to buy from seem to take forever to get to you!! ugh!
You can use a steering wheel puller on your yoke and pinion, just put two bolts in the ujoint holes and tighten the center of your puller and it will pop right out and you will not have worry about the pinion falling out
This will be my Go To video for setting up my rear differential on a 7.5" GM 3.73 gear ratio carrier in an AWD Astro Van! I replaced my G80 Locker with a rebuild from BET Performance because my Spider gears were toast. New Pinion bearings, races, crush sleeve, seal, and original (32) Shim. My Ring gear and Pinion shims are both (.240), go figure! I was told to reuse them. No dice, way too tight! I'm replacing them with the Super Shim kit. I have measured the shims in "inches" and "mm" in order to be ready "anal" for the install!.......Today is the day.....I have watched this video many times and feel confident! Stay tuned.... Outstanding instructions....THANKS
I bought a 98 camaro a couple years ago and I have to replace the ring and pinion. I was able to pull out the diff with my bare hands. Had two identical cast iron shims, one on each side.
Sometimes that happens when the side bearings get some wear in them. Reusing the diff case and the original shims with new bearings should restore the preload, unless it was set up by someone before you bought it and they did it wrong. I still keep my cast iron shims and use them if I have the right thickness. That way I don't have to use a service shim and spacer.
@@siuautomotive I'm fairly certain that the preload was all messed up by whoever was in here last, so I don't really trust any of these parts. I had a fairly spectacular front pinion bearing failure that also blew out the pinion seal. Only thing I'm reusing is the differential itself. I didn't know anything about differentials before two weeks ago, but it seems like I've been driving it around with way too much backlash ever since I got it.
I did the pinion preload when I rebuild a diff but did not have the tool. I'm thinking spec was like 28 inch pounds or something. I used a mail scale and pushed against a 1 foot bar and kept lightly hitting it with the impact until preload was met. It worked like a charm and needed to pinion holder wither . Just held with my hand and a towel over it to keep it form spinning.
Thank you for all your time and effort, this is the BEST instructional video on the GM 10 bolt I have seen. I want to ask, at the 1:21:00 mark of the video, the paperwork clearly shows the pinion preload rotating torque of 20-25 inch pounds. However, I see pretty much everywhere, that this is printed as 15-19 inch pounds. Can you elaborate on this? I'm not doubting you, as again, it's clearly legible in your manual, just wondering if this has changed. Thanks again.
Chat GPT actually referred me to this video when I was looking for infirmary about GM 10 Bolt differentials. It's convinced me to try not to rebuild my differential myself.
My setup tool is way cheaper and more convenient. I use a PC of ground Starrett flat bar stock I drilled to put across the milled BRG cap surface and then measure down to the pinion face subtracting the thickness. Very accurate.
This is the best video on RUclips or anywhere for that matter. The only part that has my ability in question is setting pinion depth. I'm rebuilding a gm 12 bolt 8.875 with 3:73 gearing and replacing everything but the carrier, spider gears. It's out of a 71 chevy c10 and looked to have low miles because there was such little backlash and the gears looked fantastic but it probably sat for a long time because the teeth on the ring gear that were above the gear oil are pitted beyond usability. I dont have that tool to measure for pinion depth but can I still rely that the shim between the old pinion and bearing to be correct? I'm also putting higher 3:43 set in it if that matters
I am from Carbondale and I graduated from SIU Automotive in 1973. I went to school with guys like Jack Greer and had some outstanding instructors like Duffy Willy, Jim White and Joe Kazda. Because of this school, I had an unbelievable automotive career with Ford Motor Company for 30 years. I love the videos even though I am now 71 years old because I still love working on vehicles and do so almost every day in my home automotive shop. I never lost the love for diagnosing and repairing.
Amazing in-depth content. For a home DIY without fancy tools, got me good pattern and no chatter. Thank you 👍🏾
Great video learned things @ 70yrs young! I will watch again , thanks.
people always search for the video they need just for a few key points but never like to watch the long video of something as such detail specific crutial steps of something with not only 1 or two but 4 key steps to a correct problem free setup.. as a kid i was always was around my father building personal cars over the years and actually he currently has a 73 camaro and i have purchased a 78 camaro and bought my wife a 78 camaro and rebuilding both 78s i upgraded to a limited slip eaton style unit as my open diff spider gears were eating my cross shaft pin just on 1 end too many 1 wheel peels and making a clunking sound while driving and the amount of information you have taught ensures i will only have to do this 1 time and not have to open the rear end more than 1 time with correct specifications and less worried of problems or noises due to incorrect installation or placement or incorrect shimming. thanks for making a great informational packed video to learn crutial steps to a proper setup... am actually headed to the garage to finish putting in my LSD differential right now...
this is the absolute best instructional video of any kind ive ever watched. im currently swapping from an open 2.73 to a limited slip unit with 3.73. i was lost until watching this video. such a great demonstration. thank you sir!
Wear glasses. Hardened steel can Shatter! Good to hear you say. I'm an Old machinist who took a fragment of tool steel from my lip, and once from the white of my eye, scary. I always use gentle heat when removing bearings. I made a special pinion setup bearing by honing .0005 from the ID of a New BRG to be able to remove it for shim setting. Used it 3 different times for my 12 bolt.
Thank you for putting this information out there. I love when I learn a few more details and common sense on setting up a differential. Its no fun taking a rear end apart repeatedly only working against yourself. Your methodical approach is awesome. Thanks, Terry
This is the best video I watched on any repair/rebild
Thank you for the education...got my new gears today !... I've done it before, but what a great refresher course you provided !
Woody Harrelson, I really admired your acting, especially those memorable years on Cheers! It's nice to see that you found such an excellent hobby in your golden years. Keep wrenching!
Ha, I was thinking more of Ken from "Real Genius"
All in good fun, this guy has simply the best video on the GM 10 bolt I have ever seen...well done!
I have been a DCJ mechanic for 36 years and felt like i was back in a class room again. Love it. After you master all subjects you only get web classes. I miss the class room. The only time you really need to worry about the coast side pattern is when you are doing reverse rotation front axles in 4x4 trucks. You do a great job of teaching the class and remind me of some of the teachers i have had.
😂
I do the ring gear case setup without the pinon in. When you get the right shims with the carrier in and snug up the caps you are suppose to put a inch pound torque wrench on the ring gear bolt and get a rotation reading between 20 to 25 inch for new bearing and 10 the 15 with used bearings. This is the real way to do it. Note it takes time. After you get that during setup you can take away .002 to .004 on each side to get close to your backlash with the pinon gear in. Then add what you took out to get the proper preload on the carrier and check backlash again. The reason for taking side shims away is to make it easy to take the carrier out several times to get close to your backlash. Also a case spreader helps out a lot for hard to get out stuck carriers. Gm had a tool you put in without shims to get the preload then you took the out and mike each one that gave you the shim pack you needed for each side. I never liked them spreading tools myself. If you have done enough of these use a old pinon bearing and use a flapper tool to make the big bearing close to the shim so you can just tap it on to get your pinon setup. Way to easy to wreck a bearing pressing it on and off to many times. I would take the pinon to the tool and die shop I worked at and put the pinon in the lathe and use fine wet sanding paper to get a tap on bearing fit. Did a lot that way and never had a comeback. That way you could use the same bearing to get the pinon deep right. Final assy just put some red locktite and you was good to go. There are a lot more tricks without spending a fortune on tools. Only good tool I hand was the deep setting tool for aftermarked ring and pinon sets which had the deep marked on the pinon. I always used Richmond gears myself. Back in the day it was Schafer gear sets were the best. Zoom gears were junk back in the day. GM gears are to expensive.
Where do you live? I'd love for you to build my rear end. I messed it up. I have an Auburn locker, and I don't want to ruin that too.
Setting up my 8.5. Not one video around does a better of a job explaining the set up as this one right here. Thanks so much
Holy crap! I feel like for the first time I am not crazy scared to try this myself. My project is to replace my open diff with a posi, keeping the same gears. 1) My pinion was untouched so, now after your lesson, I’m not worried about the pinion depth. And I understand how to verify the pinion preload. Even though it it probably unnecessary. 2) I have the proper tools and now I understand how to measure backlash and more importantly how to adjust it. And you really simplified getting to the appropriate preload on the carrier bearings.
This is Jeff from Detroit Michigan, and this video is very helpful....thank you
I know have the confidence to do my Gen 3 Viper with new gears, bearings, seals and a OS Giken Superlock LSD. Thank you for this exhaustive tutorial. Well done sir.
Turn your guillotine 90° so that each red spacer is parallel .... arrrg... you just demonstrated. Recently saw Dave's in Utah made it VERY clear to not stress screw rods.
Came here after changing fluid (probably) first time on an 07 trailblazer. It's sloppy, but now has new fluid, seal and drain plug (also known as rear cover!)
Your videos have helped me out on past and present cars. I am particular and not content with someone else's 'good enough'. And then half of my small fleet is European and I'm in rural Missouri.
This is the most helpful GM rear end rebuild video on the internet .!!!!!
I am that shade tree mechanic, absolutely wonderful in your attention to detail, much more confident in my ability to do this properly after watching this , I've dabbled but this is the sweetness .....if you have any vids on 5.7 chevy engine rebuilding I'd love to have your knowledge in my toolbox , thank you men
It’s really nice to see a professional take his time and really go through the steps thank you I feel more confident about redoing my 10 bolt now
Agreed
Can you put a 6 lug in the 8 bolt rear end
@@petepeterson3437 I’m not sure man, but what do you have it in?
Agreed
You're the best teacher I have seen on RUclips in 10 years you explain things to me where I can understand them thank you
Best 2 hours I ever spent here at 4:30am. I'm trying to rebuild my GM 8.2 as we speak! I bought a new posi carrier and bearings, crush sleeve. My original .25 spacers were too tight to use but not by much. At least I know what I'm gonna need in terms of spacers or shims. Thank you for the knowledge and extreme details.
This video is as good as it gets on this subject, great detail & explanation.
WoW! What a great tutorial for someone who has never even tried to do this myself. I replaced the entire rear end rebuild components. I did it all including a new Differential carrier and watching the details you provided really helped me out alot. THank You SO Much for being so detailed.
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Awesome video, we appreciate your time and patience. for those learning when time is money. I prefer to use an air hammer for seals ,races , removal. Everything. use with a point punch to drive the pinion out in the dimple. use with a brass rod and hammer head to remove and fine tune races , use with your bearing installer to start and drive bearings. lots of light blows makes short work of it. very little room for error too.
5 by 5 loud and clear. Thanks so much for an extensive tutorial and it looks like it would be a joy to utilize all that clean space to get some repair and fab work done.
I also commented on his clean shop, I am now inspired to organize our shop for the first time. I am retired at 59 and have the time to do it with my son so he can learn with me. My dad wasn’t into working on things so we get to start something new for our family. Greetings from Washington state. I have a 12 bolt posi unit to install in a rear end from a 1970 Monte Carlo we bought but didn’t need. Good luck!
This is an excellent video. I have been drag racing for a lot of years and set up lots of gears for racers and it's always a pleasure to see a video with this much detail. Thank you for uploading such a fine video.
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Seriously, thank you for this video. I have 5,000 miles on my first engine rebuild (5.3 ls) and the truck needs to be re-geared. Dispite getting the thousand pieces of my engine successfully back in working order, this differential has had me scared. Mostly due to the lack of step by step documentation out there. Most everything on the internet is either "throw it together, use some contact paint, and it SHOULD be good to go" or "take it to a professional it was the worst thing I ever tried".
I have a few tools to add to my collection, but it definitely seems like something I can do correctly. Thank you. All the question marks are gone.
Your shop is nice and clean. Our shop is nice but it’s a mess. I’ve never had it organized before and we’ve never used it until recently so you’ve inspired me to get it organized. I’d be embarrassed to have anyone see it. It’s 48x48 with a loft and 16’ walls but I need to finish wiring it and installing lights. I’d like to add a lift so we can store another car and work on things with it. Thanks a million from Washington state. I’m 59 and retired and my son is 23 and acts like he is also retired. We are working on 2 66 Chevelles, a 1970 Monte Carlo and his RX8 so we have plenty of projects. I have the 12 bolt out of the Monte Carlo and have a new posi unit and axles to install so thanks for the help! Pat
I am glad I bumped into
your channel cause I,m in the. Middle of changing my 66 c10 to a posi rearend... thanks for the class. It will be my first rearend job !!!
Awesome! Good luck with the C10!
I've watched many many videos about the rear differential. I've killed 2 factory differentials. So I'm gonna try to build one. Crazy but I feel way more confident after watching this. Your an awesome teacher. Even threw in some common sense along with some technical. Thank you!
Just got my gears swapped to 4:11 and my pattern came out dead on first try. Nailed preload. Thanks again
This was an excellent video, very professional, helpful and thorough with an awesome instructor . I've looked through tons of other videos on this subject and this is by far the best I've seen .I learned quite a bit from watching this . Thanks for the upload 👍.
I was always afraid to touch a differential. Only thing more complexed to me is an automatic transmission. This is excellent instruction and information on the GM 10 bolt rear ends. I will be using this as I work on my 94 Camaro. Thank you! From a 68 year old gearhead.
Good luck with your axle build!!
✌
I’m really glad you shared this! I have my gm 8.2 ripped apart and ready for new parts. Your explanation helps a lot!! The initial description of the side preload was a lil confusing at first but the summary at the end helped clear the confusion.
Excellent video!! With the addition of a few tools, I’m much more confident that I can do this. I’ll have to take my time but I’m sure I can do it. Thank you!!
Great video. Taken through whole process step by step with great explanations at each stage.
I have a 09 jk x jeep..I'm regear to 4.88. And am going with yukon with new carrier and spider gears..and of course bearings...I'm going to hone out old bearing for set up..everything you've done has been great..I have some mechanical abilities....
This is hands down the best video I've ever come across.
Great video! I'll be doing my first install soon and your discussion of carrier preload will be very useful. It's often glossed over. I'm sure I'll watch this two more times and should be able to attack the job with confidence. Thanks!
Nice work! Your a great instructor and very good at teaching proper methods. I appreciate you
Thank you and your helper for taking the time out of your day to make such a detailed and informative video. This is extremely valuable and knowledgable information and im very thankful you shared this for others to learn. You guys are great!
At 1:41 you answered the preload question that has eluded me. The investigation and correction when things didn't turn out perfect is gold, and the little side-bars of real world tidbits like using the press and the cast iron spacer add credibility AND keep it interesting. Nice work!
Thank you, Best explanation and lesson on the internet! Thank you for your knowledge and time!
Thank you ! This demonstration is without any doubt the best video instruction on a gm differential rebuilt on uTube. Greatly appreciated
Truly appreciated! Thanks for the thorough detail on the rebuild.
Always wanted to see a rebuild.
Amazing video. Thank you so much. Still in process of rebuilding my 1971 Chevelle differential but with 2 manuals and this video I think Ill have the confidence to be able to get this job done. Will leave updated comment when I finish. Thanks again!!!
I'm just watching your video because I'm new at what I'll be doing to upgrade and rebuild my 10bolt GM rear end out of my 94 Pontiac Trans am..
Cool! Good luck with it!
@@siuautomotive thank you..
I have done a few. I ALWAYS reused the pinion shims and they always fit right. I didn't want to mess with perfection..lol Nice video!
Another great video. Thanks. Keep them coming.
Around the 24:10 mark I just knew that carrier was coming out.
Thank you for this tutorial...well explained an I learned something tonight...and as always appreciate when someone is willing to share an teach there knowledge
You are so right it is wonderful when a person takes their time to truly show you what you're doing thumbs up to that man.....!!
Just watch this video found it fascinating thank you very much I am a backyard mechanic and appreciate the help
Awesome video and explanation! Thanks for posting. This made my own carrier and gear swap (to limited slip) super easy.
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Thanks for this! I am a self taught mechanic and can usually do a good job. But this saved me a bunch of mistakes and accelerated my learning curve.
Best video I've come across to give in depth details....thanks alot!
Absolutely amazing!!!!...Greetings from Northeastern Canada........Martin
Thank you for an excellent demonstration with practical advice. You have a lot of patience.
wonderful presentation and the overhead camera is awesome..
I always like to watch classroom set up and ideas
Same
This is the best video I have found. Excellent.
Great job! Starting the complete overhaul of my Tahoe and really learned a lot. I would have missed a lot if I hadn't seen your tutorial. Thanks!
Nice casting stay focused you guys enjoy the detailed assembly practices you provide
Very informative lesson. I now have 0 fear doing my rebuild. I must say although I realize those are for demonstration I cringe when you file parts over open diff.
Great video Sir. I am aa newbie truck enthusiast, area of focus, axles, this was a very good breakdown and much to learn. Thank you for posting. Subd.cheers
Great School! Went through the automative program in the early 90s.
Thank you. I'm in southwest Washington and have a '67 C20 4x4 to restore. The pinion shaft seal is leaking so I have to replace it and the hub seals as well. I also have to replace the seals on the front axle. I cringe when you file those shims over the differential cavity.
Hello I’m new the channel, and really like it so I’ll be installing new Greer in 1976 caprice rear end
Thank you for the great video. Very professional content and video capture of the whole process.
Loud and clear, very impressive shop!
Awesome video would have loved to see this video a year ago when I did a gear swap. I will be using these techniques to do another gear swap from 4.11 to 4.56 tomorrow. Thanks again for the video please keep them coming.
Thank you for your axel servicing videos!
WOW! Best video ever! I learned so much! I was looking to buy a TandD pinion depth tool,, where you have to go back and forth replacing shims to get it right,,, until,, I seen this tool which deletes that process and tells you the right shim!! Nice tool! QUESTION! I need help! My son goes through rears, 99 3/4 tom Sierra I believe 9.5 if i remember, blew the g80 locker. I purchased brand new NOS one off ebay, exact casting number, (using my same ring gear and gm bearings) went in using original GM solid shims from factory that came out, went in perfectly. The 3/4 ton has and adjuster on the one bearing side! Nice! Pattern was perfect, lash, perfect. Been fine ever since! NOW! my son had 2002 Silverado 1/2 ton 8.6 rear like what you have in this video. Roughly 136k miles, used it to plow over winter. I obviously acquired another of his left overs.. He had to drive home in 4 wheel as the rear shaft was useless. I was hoping spiders. But, it also had a clunk clunk clunk in rear. Spiders were busted,, and when they broken they broken chunk out of carrier. I found a reputable seller on Ebay who sold me a rebuilt carrier, same casting number 149, what I asked for,,, I used same ring gear,, went in beautifully having to tap in the same thick GM shim making it tight like yours, and the lash was perfect again at 5.5 thousandths ! Now, when cleaning out the housing there were a couple of spider chunks jammed a bit in the top oil galley way to the pinion. I believe that was all. I used magnet and air to see if anything else may had been in there, a limited visual inspection (cause you can't see any further down towards the pinion area) as well turning drive shaft by hand, it appeared free of any other debris. Now, back together, good lash and pattern, but clunk clunk clunk still there when test drive and spinning on lift. While on lift it sounds like pinion area! Could a bearing been damaged by a piece of broken gear? And, If I do take pinion out to replace bearings with the same replacement bearings ,, will I still need to replace crush collar??? It sounds like I may have too from your video,, but I want to be sure if I am replacing with all the same as stock like I done with carrier.? It just seems easier to reuse old one if you can?? Thank.. Hope you see this!
FOLLOW UP,, pulled it apart. felt slight clunk when turning pinion with carrier still in axles out. Pulled carrier, GM solid shim on pinion side was broken! Pinion spun freely no noise I could feel or hear! So, maybe shim issue? I am concerned because it made this clunk clunk clunk before i redone it all, and the shims were fine at that point! And, my luck,, gm shim kit I have is for smaller bearing. I have to order right kit, or try and find same thickness gm solid shim.. will up date, unless you have other things to look at? thank you!
OKY DOKY ,, update! After pullig it all apart, I found and ordered off ebay, the same cast type gm shims. After waiting days to get them, mic it all to be sure,, the damn things broken going back in again. And they dont get caught by anything, the broken pieces fall into the shaft tube, (to who replied below). So,I had also bought the Yukon shim kit! Well, I was not happy due to the thicknesses NOT printed on the shim, and ?i had to play , try the mixture until I got the right size on each size that matched the cast gm shims. Anyway,, Like I stated replying to someone who replied to me,, once out, I found a knicked tooth om the pinion. I used a die grinder to smooth it down to what I believed was close to normal! Got it back together. Had to play with shims a couple of times to get the right ring backlash, and the noise, clunk, was faintly still there. But after driving a bit, eventually went away! So, I believe it was the knicked pinion tooth, and it eventually was worn to not be an issue after a few miles! But, good thing it did make the noise in the beginning, because I learned that cast shim was broken with pieces in the shaft tube that woulda eventually caused me a messed up rear again once they traveled around the rear. So, in my 3/4 ton,, I was able to reuse the gm cast shims on a new carrier , because, the 3/4 ton has a screw out and in adjustment on the pass side of rear that you count the turns out to pull carrier and shims, reuse shims, then count turns of adjuster in reverse on install! But the 1/2 ton,, screw reusing those cast shims and go right to a shim kit like yukon or close. because most likely the cast shims will break and you will not know it until back together and possibly too late . I really hope someone learned or got something out of all this typing and learning I went through! Good luck to you all! And thank to the guys who replied!!
If the pinion spins free and isn’t loose, I doubt it’s your issue. Those cast shims do sometimes break, but they are captured by the caps and shouldn’t cause a problem. Of course if one did make its way out, the diff case would be extremely loose and that would cause major problems. I’d be curious about the spider gears and the cross pin in that used diff. That’s where most clunking comes from in addition to u-joints. Also, are you sure it’s not from the transfer case? Might be worth checking that too.
@@siuautomotive Thanks so much for replying! I pulled the drive shaft off and pulled the cover again and spun pinion by hand and heard, slightly, as well as felt what I believed woulda been my clunk. It did feel as if it was coming from the pinion area! What I am wondering now also is, I found a slight chip in the end of one of the pinion teeth I believe from when the spiders flew about inside. There was also a scored tooth on the edge of the ring I ground down smooth. I also now done that to this pinion tooth. The differential I bought was from 'betperformance' on Ebay with a 100% feedback. He made sure he got me one with the same casting number as I had as i asked! Great guy! It looks brand new inside, all clutches , spiders, and pin! Well, when I pulled the dif out and spun the pinion by hand again,, no spots, spun freely no clunks or noises! So, I am wondering if that broken shim may had caused the ring to be tilted so slightly to cause it? Only thing has me wondering is that it made that clunk before when it blown and had to drive it home in 4x4 on the front axle! I found and ordered a close in thickness new gm shim off ebay, (mine was 5.97, this one 5.91, closest I could finf anywhere) as well as bought a yukon shim kit, and a new iGauging OriginCal Digital Caliper,, and a shim install tool. As soon as I have it all, I am going to reinstall the dif with new shims and see if that cured the clunk. But I am also wondering if that knicked tooth coulda caused that much a clunk?? looking in retrospect.. I been dying for these things to finally get here! Some states to buy from seem to take forever to get to you!! ugh!
You can use a steering wheel puller on your yoke and pinion, just put two bolts in the ujoint holes and tighten the center of your puller and it will pop right out and you will not have worry about the pinion falling out
This will be my Go To video for setting up my rear differential on a 7.5" GM 3.73 gear ratio carrier in an AWD Astro Van! I replaced my G80 Locker with a rebuild from BET Performance because my Spider gears were toast. New Pinion bearings, races, crush sleeve, seal, and original (32) Shim. My Ring gear and Pinion shims are both (.240), go figure! I was told to reuse them. No dice, way too tight! I'm replacing them with the Super Shim kit. I have measured the shims in "inches" and "mm" in order to be ready "anal" for the install!.......Today is the day.....I have watched this video many times and feel confident! Stay tuned.... Outstanding instructions....THANKS
Great video with thorough details. Much appreciated
I bought a 98 camaro a couple years ago and I have to replace the ring and pinion. I was able to pull out the diff with my bare hands. Had two identical cast iron shims, one on each side.
Sometimes that happens when the side bearings get some wear in them. Reusing the diff case and the original shims with new bearings should restore the preload, unless it was set up by someone before you bought it and they did it wrong. I still keep my cast iron shims and use them if I have the right thickness. That way I don't have to use a service shim and spacer.
@@siuautomotive I'm fairly certain that the preload was all messed up by whoever was in here last, so I don't really trust any of these parts. I had a fairly spectacular front pinion bearing failure that also blew out the pinion seal. Only thing I'm reusing is the differential itself. I didn't know anything about differentials before two weeks ago, but it seems like I've been driving it around with way too much backlash ever since I got it.
I can hear you this is Isai from Edinburg Texas
I am not a student, but this was very informative. Thank you very much.
A very good tutorial, I feel I could set up a Chevy 10 bolt on my own… with a good shim pack. Thank you for making it available to all!
There is also a 8.2 10 bolt. That came in first gen camaros and firebirds.
I did the pinion preload when I rebuild a diff but did not have the tool. I'm thinking spec was like 28 inch pounds or something. I used a mail scale and pushed against a 1 foot bar and kept lightly hitting it with the impact until preload was met. It worked like a charm and needed to pinion holder wither . Just held with my hand and a towel over it to keep it form spinning.
By far the best video !! Thank you.
glad to see you use two wrenches on grease indacater so do i . I set mine .002 closser than spec due to carrier cap spread do to torqe in mud racing
Thank you so much ..I live wher they check a little paste and say “good enough”
the best set up, process I've watched! Thanks.
Easy to see and hear looking forward to presentation
Awesome video, Thanks for the great step by step!!
i just found this and was really cool to watch ... Thank you
Thank you for all your time and effort, this is the BEST instructional video on the GM 10 bolt I have seen.
I want to ask, at the 1:21:00 mark of the video, the paperwork clearly shows the pinion preload rotating torque of 20-25 inch pounds. However, I see pretty much everywhere, that this is printed as 15-19 inch pounds.
Can you elaborate on this?
I'm not doubting you, as again, it's clearly legible in your manual, just wondering if this has changed.
Thanks again.
Chat GPT actually referred me to this video when I was looking for infirmary about GM 10 Bolt differentials. It's convinced me to try not to rebuild my differential myself.
I’m super lucky because I have to rebuild my differential but my teacher is going to help me out and he’s been a technician for 20+ years.
My setup tool is way cheaper and more convenient.
I use a PC of ground Starrett flat bar stock I drilled to put across the milled BRG cap surface and then measure down to the pinion face subtracting the thickness. Very accurate.
Watching from Guyana good work
This is the best video on RUclips or anywhere for that matter. The only part that has my ability in question is setting pinion depth. I'm rebuilding a gm 12 bolt 8.875 with 3:73 gearing and replacing everything but the carrier, spider gears. It's out of a 71 chevy c10 and looked to have low miles because there was such little backlash and the gears looked fantastic but it probably sat for a long time because the teeth on the ring gear that were above the gear oil are pitted beyond usability. I dont have that tool to measure for pinion depth but can I still rely that the shim between the old pinion and bearing to be correct? I'm also putting higher 3:43 set in it if that matters
next time i'm up in Southern IL, I'd love to take you to lunch.
Excellent, excellent video. Good teacher.
God I miss working in a shop like this
Great video - excellent detail and good explanation. Thanks for posting!!
Ken your coming in clear good info > can use from guam I live here thanx
Great camera work
Thank you!