I bought a used 1996 Kawasaki Ninja 250ex for cheap, then immediately took a job that had me traveling away from home for 3 years. Poor bike's been sitting and I'm looking at replacing the tires, getting a new battery, cleaning/lubing the chain, cleaning out the gas tank, etc. I've been researching like crazy and I'm glad I found your channel. Lots of work ahead of me. Subscribed!
Been riding for a year and a half! Wouldn’t say I’m anywhere close to a seasoned rider...but I will say I bought my bike second hand and this video might have saved me a lot of money or even my life! Never too late to learn guys!
You sir are a fantastic example of a MASTER, I hope your video saves a young riders life as you show and educate the rider as to what and why the product is WHAT IT IS! PS please keep up your video asI believe your channel is fantastic and intrinsically asks and answers fundamental questions:) Thank you.sir you are as you know a cut above the asshole and I love you for this!:)
As a newbie I bought a used motorcycle, and the tire had almost no wear and cracks but it was from the year 2014. It was ok for a season, but I could not push it in the corners. I tried once and the front tire slipped a little bit and my pants turned brown. Bought a new set of tires and ready to rock in the new season. Cheers for the video!
Thank you for your lesson🤗🖤💖im thinking of buying a motocycle and need to know lots before riding you just helped me and you just saved my life by teaching me all this I ow you my life MAN!! FOR REAL!🙏✊🙇
I started noticing my Dunlop Roadsmart 3 tires feeling different after about 10k miles, it's at 12k now, and I'm getting ready to replace them because they are starting to get slippery.
@@CanyonChasers Oh yea, probably should have changed them a lot sooner to be honest. Never know what kind of trouble you can get with bad tires. Really appreciate the video and the reply. Very informative!
I'm shopping for tires and my front appears to have significantly more life than the rear though they are both over 8 years old. I thought I'd look for some advise and glad I stumbled upon your video. Thank you so much for these tips as I've decided to buy a new pair of tires due to risk factors you've highlighted (age of rubber and the grip superiority and ride quality of a matched set). I not only value the professional quality of these videos but also your recommendations of tool and gear choices. Thanks again!
I don't buy matching tires working together in the rain. First of all, their rotations would have to be in sync all the time and second, the water is randomly patterned by the time the rear tire sees it. I agree they work together as coefficients of friction are concerned as you want both rubbers to be the same. You don't want a tire to lose grip way before the other one does. Great idea on the dimple in the center of the rears. My Roadtec 01 could really benefit from it.
Great pointing out the cords right next to a wear bar still with life next to it. My only problem is that tire manufacturers will make the dots in the center "artificially" short so as to sell tires faster. Everyone is hustling everyone these days so I question this.
Good video, and yes, the tire manufacturers need to put better wear indicators in the treads. My car tires have all sorts of clear markings for this purpose.
All though this is top notch advice, I must admit one thing that i'm guilty of, and that is, that trough out my 2 years of riding and buying imported and used second hand tires only, I've seen that a tire that's about 5 to 8 years old is the best tire for my financial possibilities, because it's definitely cheaper at that age and is last a whole lot longer. I've had a 20 euro rear tire last me upwards of 3000kms until the thread showed, and not only once. And when i did get newer tires on the rear, say 2-3 years old, they were indeed much softer but lasted a whole lot less. Of course I would buy new tires if i could, but what i'm saying is that i can hang with some fast guys in my area while having cheaper tires. Now i don't knee drag, but my chicken strips are quite thin, and i do accelerate pretty good even at lean with these older tires. I know it's a gamble, but if the pavement is dry, for a beginner and intermediate rider i would say that older tires can work pretty well if you can't really afford new ones but love to ride AND don't corner as if you're on the track.
When i refer to "subject" I mean motorcycling. By the way, last week I was researching to replace the tyres and basically got guided by the manufacturer sites and selected other. Only after having purchased the new set, seems google linked my multiple searches to this video. Maybe there is additional work you may think to do so as to land with this video on the first google search page. I would have definitely wished I saw your video first. Congrats !!
I just want to say I almost didn’t watch this video but when I did I discovered it contains the most accurate information about tires I’ve ever seen in all my research. I almost bought a new set ( to me) of used tires off a guy that changed up his rims, and tires. The tires only had 1,200 miles on them but were off an 2012 bike so they were already 8+ years old? It was so hard to pass up this very good deal, and when I told him why he thought I was crazy. Maybe I am? but I’m glad I didn’t cave, and buy those tires just to save the cash.
Great Video' Only one Comment, i am not disagreeing that both front and rear tires go through the same heat cycles. The point i am making is- That the Drive friction tire has a hotter cycle than the front, and even though the compounds are normally different from fron to back the front still does Not break down at the same rate. With that said it is good practice to replace both but not always necessary. Thanks again for your Videos.
Love all the videos man! Keep em coming! Just cleaned all my brakes yesterday on my 2015 multi. New HH pads and all power bled with that new $70 Castrol SRF fluid 😁 Would love to see some multistrada suspension videos. Still to this day I can't seem to ever settle on the proper suspension settings in touring or sport mode.
The tip about the age of the tyre is gold! Tyres can look ok like my 15 year old tyres which were the original tyres on my Kawasaki GPX250. They looked completely fine until I came down in the last heavy rain. So wish I had of known about tyre age before I got into biking. Could have saved myself an accident for the small cost of 2 brand New tyres.
Clear, concise & informative. Your videos on various subjects are great, keep up the good work! PS: kids in my driveway piece was spot on & refreshing in the bad news 'news cycle'
A wealth of information contained in this presentation. Thank you very much for your eloquent explanation relevant as much to you guys on your side of the swamp as it is to us over here in the United Kingdom. Tyre grip has seen the greatest advance in the 45 years I have been riding. And to put it in perspective, in the 135k miles that I rode in my first 3 years on 4 different motorcycles, mainly on rural country roads, I never wore out a set of tyres, nor had a puncture but I ran out of grip on corners twice in the dry and probably a dozen times in the wet. I have covered about 40k miles in the last 5 years on 6 different motorcycles, have had 3 punctures, replaced 7 rear tyres and 3 front ones but have never run out of grip in the wet or dry.
Why do you recommend following air pressure in owners manual instead of on tire? The pressure shown in the manual is for the stock tires, not an after market tire. If you follow the manual and have a tire failure issue, the tire manufacturer will simply argue that you did not inflate properly, etc, etc, etc. What is the reasoning behind following manual?
So for future videos maybe show different types of wear and what causes them. For example a tire with too much air pressure and too little. What proper wear should look like. Suspension issues with wear etc. Thanks
Thank you guys for doing the great job. I'm planning to buy a motorcycle again . Last time I was driving motorcycle it was before 10 years ago. You have no idea how much this and other videos that you make help me. Thank you guys Wish you a best 😉
Tha ks loads(pun not intended)! Im about to attain my friends 1981 Honda. cb650 inline 4 cylinder with just 31K miles on the bike(not original tires. Has not been ridden-but stored- for the past 22 years. Front tire is: 3.5" x 17/Rear is: 4.5 x 15. I hope to find, may need to consult with a Honda motorcycle dealer-for a compatible tire.🎉🏍️ Doug
I've learnt how important inspecting your tyres is when I broke my knee joint and had to pay the medical bills. it was my first bike, brought it brand new, been stored for only a year, and tyres were only 2 years old when it happened. I never gauged the pressure for 10 months or even inspected them, they were very low on pressure, I've later inflated them to the recommended pressure, and had an accident where the front suddenly locked only 3 weeks later. after the accident I inspected them and they were dry rotten which explained why they lost their pressure every few days and I had to regauge them, not to mention that they were bad quality ones(one of the worst), and nobody warned me about them. so, lesson learned, tyres are the thing that connects your bike to the ground, always inspect them, and never be on a budget when spending on a new pair of tyres, always buy a quality one from a reputable brand no matter how small or cheap your bike is
In your opinion....why do many riders prefer to run Bias ply tires on the front???? They're Manuel suggests running radials....so they do run a radial in the rear...but still want a bias on front????
Thanks so much for yet another helpful video. It's been a few years since I was on the track, but I ride daily and I always enjoy your videos. Really good content, with lots of helpful counsel to learn new things, and refresh on things too. Awesome channel.
Great info! My bike recommends 42psi on the rear! Which seems terribly high. When I have set it at that pressure, it feels hard on the seat of the pants. So I have typically set my rear to 39, feels better to me, and grippier. I run 36 in front. Almost always Bridgestone S21’s
Great video, I occasionally replace tires according to wear bars but sense I ride the twisties a lot, my front wears out toward the area of average lean in the corner. The out of round condition is my main criteria for changing the front. My rear tire does wear more in the center due acceleration and engine braking but I still get consistent wear on the sides, I then rely on wear and tear. I do push the edge a little because I have a good near slick for a short time. If I anticipate a long ride, I just change rather than lose handling on a longer trip.
Enjoy your videos....question, My Indy recommends American Elite tires for my 2012 Harley Street glide....they keep scalloping way before the tread wears out! My bike? or the tires? Thanks
Very well explain . I have a benelli 600i bike have got 6 to 7 punctures . I have done 10,000kms do i need to change the tyres Existing stocks are pirelli angel gt . I want to go with Timsun tyres . Plz give your expert comments
I often see people leave their bikes outside along the curb under a cover all year round. If heat causes tires to break down more quickly, how does extreme cold, water, salt, etc affect them? I'm sure not very well.
Thank you very much for taking time to share this information. I used to apply shoe wax(after thoroughly cleaning the bike) on the side walls of my bike's tires once every 3 or 4 months to make sure that they don't crack. I'm not sure if this is a good or bad idea now???
No tire should crack if it's less than five years old. If you aren't riding enough to burn up a set of tires every five years, reevaluate your life choices, then ride more. :)
I'm running a set of Metzler Tourrance on a '13 BMW GSA. I religiously check tire pressure twice weekly always with the same gauge. It almost never matches what the TPMS says but that is not uncommon for BMW (or so I'm told). I work to maintain factory pressure recommendations but have just found significant cupping on both sides of the front at just 2400 miles. The rear is much more consistent in shape and retains much more tread. The ride adjust is functioning properly and there is no self adjust on the front damper. Is it a pressure issue? A suspension issue? Or just a crappy tire in the canyons (and lots of slow speed practice; warming up every ride, swerve, u turn, figure 8, tight turning from a stop and some emergency stopping)? I was hoping for longer life out of the set. At this rate I could replace the front now and then swap to something different front and back in another 2400 if the rear holds out. Thanks for the video and the calculator!
The most common causes of front tire cupping are too low of a pressure, lots of heavy trail braking, or undamped (underdamped) suspension. Some tires are more prone to cupping than others, but severe cupping so quickly is a bit concerning. Is your bike super heavy?
@@CanyonChasers thanks for the reply and care. 2013 GSA weighs 580 lbs full of fuel and with unloaded panniers aboard. I'm not a terribly aggressive trail brake guy but i do try. :) I've upped the pressure 4 psi in the front and 2 in the rear. Factory recommendations be damned.
“The use of wide tyres causes another difficulty when the bike rolls because the contact patch moves further and further from the bike’s centreline and from its steering axis. The taller the tyre section the more pronounced these effects are; lower sections minimize them, for a given width of tyre. There are several effects. It reduces the camber thrust for a given angle of lean. Ironically, a bike with a higher centre of gravity or with the centre of gravity shifted in towards the turn, will require less angle of lean to balance its centrifugal force.” I took it off John Robinson’s book, Motorcycle Tuning Chassis second edition under the section of contact area in tyres. Perhaps maybe you could do a video why wider tyres need more lean angle to turn and narrow tyres use less. And how how centrifugal force is actually needed to turn with the same bike but different width tyres. Perhaps you can mention why did MotoGP used 16.5 wheels and why some asian drag bikes used bicycle sized wheels on their drag bikes. Thank you in advance
What tire pressure do you recommend for multistrada 1200 with piellie angel gt on them and i ride aggressively on the street and sometimes on canyon roads. Many thanks
@CanyonChasers I still don't understand why the front tire on motorcycles is mounted the other way around. It looks like the tire tread should push water under the wheel.
This is a super common question. It's because they are applying torque to the road surface backwards. Under braking - not acceleration like the rear wheels - (or the front wheels on a front wheel drive car)
@@CanyonChasers First, thank you for super fast answer. Maybe you could make video about this because I still don't understand. I mean water behavior under the wheel. All I can see is aquaplaning.
I agree, fantastic video, and very informative. I'm new to the bike world. I recently purchased a used 2018 CVO Street Glide with 5000 miles from a dealership. They did an "inspection" of the bike and made sure it was safe. I'm still a bit confused on whether or not I should get new tires. What would you recommend?
I bought my 848 evo used and the original owner somehow lost the manual so i cant find the proper tire pressure for the tires. Ive done some digging online and cant find a consistant safe number. Any info would be greatly valued.
Just watched your video and every person i talked to said to run the pressure on the side wall of tire....and i have shinko tires for Kawasaki vulcan and the tire pressure on the rail says 28 psi front and 32 rear...tire says 49 front cold 42 rear cold...ive been running the tire pressure WHAT IS ACTUAL PRESSURE..please tell me!!
Trust your owners manual. The tire manufacturer doesn't know how much your bike weighs. They don't even know what bike the tire will end up on. The tire on the sidewall is the maximum pressure the tire can be aired up to.
Hi what is the tire info when the groeve in the rubber wears difrent What i mean the groeve from inside to outside the first line is getting round the back line off the groeve stays Sharp ???
If I'm understanding you correctly, the grooves, or sipes, will round off from acceleration (mostly). So as you accelerate out of a corner, they will wear specifically at the lean angle you are comfortable getting back into the gas.
Ok thanks ... so the ronder groove in front of the groove is normal becouse the second line in the same groove is stil Sharp and looking good . There is then notting wrong with the suspension, not that i feel something when sportif riding
Thanks for such valuable information. I ride a bobber motorcycle in Quito, Ecuador (2850 meters above sea level) I have placed double purpose tyres because of low quality asphalt and lousy maintnance in our city strrets and roads... I have a question for you, would you recommend filling the tyres with nitrogen other than regular air? If yes, why? if not, why? Thanks. José Vela
Congrats! Pratical view of tyre wear. Maybe you could give me some extra info i've been looking for like mad, such as tyre carcass (soft or hard). I found (personal experience and generally speaking) that Dunlop (roadsmart III and GPR 300) has a hard carcass (tons of info) and Pirelli (Angel GT 2) and Bridgestone (T31 and S22) both have a soft carcass (info is hiden or absorbed, quiet or relaxed ride). What's your opinion about these carcasses? I see that you have the Metzeler Roadtec 01 (in this video) and the Continental Conti Roadattack 3 review. And what about these (soft or hard)? Have any feedback about Michelin (power RS 10 and Pilot Road 5) and Shinko (009 Raven and 712) carcasses? Never wear these two brands, so no idea. Thanks.
Change tires in pairs.... Yup, that is what we have always been told... Yet over the span of 30 years on older air head BMWs my Metzeler rears are totally worn out while the fronts have half their tread left. What a pain. And replace the tubes each time you change the tire. I must have a dozen tubes that for all intent and purposes appear perfectly fine sitting in my garage. There are only so many uses for motorcycle tubes. Always enjoy your videos. 🇨🇦
Well, that question makes me want to ask a lot of following questions. How fast are you going that you are exceeding the limits of a modern sport touring tire? I've done track days and dragged knees on ST tires. A) My first thought would to put you on a better set of ST tires. B) are you being abrupt with the control? Tires can handle an incredible amount of force, but not suddenly. But, yeah, you can put hypersport tires on your bike, but be prepared, the rear may not last 1500k (less than 1000 miles).
I'd like to see you guys do an episode discussing tire pressure. I try to set my tires to the factory recommendation cold, but cold can mean different things at different times of year. My KTM displays the current tire pressure and it seems to me like I ought to be establishing an optimal hot pressure and adjusting the cold pressure so that when the tire heats up it will arrive at that optimal hot pressure. Of course different tires and riding requirements will have an effect too. My take is that the motorcycle manufacturer's recommendation is a good starting place but can be improved upon. Thoughts or comments?
@@CanyonChasers Exactly. I built a T-500 into a road racer in the mid-70s. One of the old timers back then told me that an underinflated tire will gain more pressure when it heats up and an overinflated tire will gain less. He said that you want the tires to gain X psi when they heat up. It's been so long that I don't remember the number that he gave me but the idea stuck with me. Of course the faster one goes the hotter the tire is likely to get and as you mentioned setting the cold pressure on a cold day will produce a different result than using the same pressure on a hot day. The truth is for me and I think for a lot of people there's some black magic involved in the whole tire pressure thing. I understand the basic principles but that's about as far as it goes. If I knew more I could obtain better results. As I mentioned before, my 1290 SAS has integral pressure transmitters so I can get a reading on the fly it seems like this should be a really useful tool but if I don't know what I"m shooting for it's not that much help. Incidentally KTM recommends 35/42 psi cold. That's much more than any other bike I've ever had. But I'm sure they know what they are doing.
Good stuff! When I bought my Blackbird it had a set of Bridgestone Battlaxes (2ct rear and regular up front) with a very uneven wear pattern. The tires were not worn out, but the bike handled like a pig. Replaced the set with a set of Michelin Pilot Power 3's, and the difference is night and day. Check yourself, before you wreck yourself.
If you like the PP3s you should try the Power RS, they are supposed to be amazing on high powered bikes like a Blackbird that will see a lot of fast road riding plus occasional track days.
That's not out of line. The aggregate they use to build local roads has a lot to do with it. As well as average temperature. If you are big or carry a lot of weight, you manual probably has higher psi recommendations for when the bike is loaded.
I love having new rubber on my bike, and so I end up replacing my tires (always in matched sets) much earlier than recommended. In my humble estimation, tires are the absolute most important aspect of the bike because it's all that stands betwixt me and the pavement. So, it behooves all of us to not play cheapskate with rubber. Ride safe, friends!
I totally agree. I also hate being on a road trip worrying if my tire is going to last long enough to get home. I'll just put new tires on so I don't have to think about it.
Once again another great video! Love my 2013 Multistrada GT but hate the air it kicks. Bought some $70 brake fluid and going to flush soon. Already replaced the infamous fuel sensor once...may have to soon. Have you a fix for that? LOL
First of all great video! Thank you! Second of all my question: how can you tell if you need to replace your "sneakers" on your motorbike if you bought it second hand with no data on how long they have been on it, but according to all the other information you can make up with your eyes it looks good enough? So if it's an old Honda CB-1 / CB400F in my case. Thanks a lot! And have a good one!
Good question! Look at the date stamp on the tire. Thats the biggest factor. Remember, tires are cheaper than tipovers. So, if in doubt, throw them out. Also, love the CB-1. I had one years ago. It's one of the few bikes i regret selling. A peach of a bike.
So if the neck of your bike one tire pressure like mine is 29 in the front and 36 in the back but the tires say 41 so I should go by the tire pressure on the neck
Yes, always go with the pressure listed for your bike. The tire doesn't now if its fitted to a Honda Rebel or a Honda Goldwing. 41 is the the max pressure the tire is rated for.
so have you guys had any experience with the Pilot Road series since the PR2s that baked out on you? I have a set of Road 5s on my Versys and they have to be the best tires I've ever run, though the back is starting to cup a tad, but took a lot longer to start cupping than the PR4s I previously run. I suspect it will hit the wear bars in back before the cupping gets too bad, I also have about 6000mi on the back with no sign of baking out, based on how it is wearing, I suspect I will get 8000mi out of the rear, no idea on the front yet, I got 10k out of a PR4 front. I also suspect I would get better tire life than a typical sport touring bike as a 64hp Versys 650 isn't going to be nearly as hard on tires as a 150+hp Multistrada.
We have never had any luck with the Pilot series. They tend to do better in cold/wet climates. When we ride them in the arid (hot) rocky mountain west, they bake out - get super hard. They last a long time, but the level of grip is nothing like when they were new.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the most comprehensive and best video out there on tyres on RUclips!
Been riding since I was 17. I´m still riding at 58 and you taught me a whole lot of stuff I did not know. Great stuff. Will subscribe.
Awesome! Thank you!
I west the edges much faster than middle, bonus of living in the mountaints
I bought a used 1996 Kawasaki Ninja 250ex for cheap, then immediately took a job that had me traveling away from home for 3 years. Poor bike's been sitting and I'm looking at replacing the tires, getting a new battery, cleaning/lubing the chain, cleaning out the gas tank, etc. I've been researching like crazy and I'm glad I found your channel. Lots of work ahead of me. Subscribed!
Fully comprehensive. You touched all the subjects on tires and all the watch outs. Great job.
Been riding for a year and a half! Wouldn’t say I’m anywhere close to a seasoned rider...but I will say I bought my bike second hand and this video might have saved me a lot of money or even my life! Never too late to learn guys!
You sir are a fantastic example of a MASTER, I hope your video saves a young riders life as you show and educate the rider as to what and why the product is WHAT IT IS!
PS please keep up your video asI believe your channel is fantastic and intrinsically asks and answers fundamental questions:)
Thank you.sir you are as you know a cut above the asshole and I love you for this!:)
As a newbie I bought a used motorcycle, and the tire had almost no wear and cracks but it was from the year 2014. It was ok for a season, but I could not push it in the corners. I tried once and the front tire slipped a little bit and my pants turned brown. Bought a new set of tires and ready to rock in the new season. Cheers for the video!
Brilliant and straight forward advice. You answered questions I didn’t even think of. Thanks a million
EXCELLENT advice and video! Thank you! Every rider should know this tire info by heart. Tires are cheap insurance.
Thank you for your lesson🤗🖤💖im thinking of buying a motocycle and need to know lots before riding you just helped me and you just saved my life by teaching me all this I ow you my life MAN!! FOR REAL!🙏✊🙇
I started noticing my Dunlop Roadsmart 3 tires feeling different after about 10k miles, it's at 12k now, and I'm getting ready to replace them because they are starting to get slippery.
10k miles! Well done sir! I've never got that kind of mileage out of a tire. Our roads here are so abrasive.
@@CanyonChasers Oh yea, probably should have changed them a lot sooner to be honest. Never know what kind of trouble you can get with bad tires. Really appreciate the video and the reply. Very informative!
Smaller, lighter bikes have tires that last forever. I've seen almost 20,000 miles on Michelins on a tiny 150.
I'm shopping for tires and my front appears to have significantly more life than the rear though they are both over 8 years old. I thought I'd look for some advise and glad I stumbled upon your video. Thank you so much for these tips as I've decided to buy a new pair of tires due to risk factors you've highlighted (age of rubber and the grip superiority and ride quality of a matched set). I not only value the professional quality of these videos but also your recommendations of tool and gear choices. Thanks again!
Wow man. Really great info. I always ran the same tire front to back but never why this actually mattered!!!!
I don't buy matching tires working together in the rain. First of all, their rotations would have to be in sync all the time and second, the water is randomly patterned by the time the rear tire sees it. I agree they work together as coefficients of friction are concerned as you want both rubbers to be the same. You don't want a tire to lose grip way before the other one does. Great idea on the dimple in the center of the rears. My Roadtec 01 could really benefit from it.
Great pointing out the cords right next to a wear bar still with life next to it. My only problem is that tire manufacturers will make the dots in the center "artificially" short so as to sell tires faster. Everyone is hustling everyone these days so I question this.
Good video, and yes, the tire manufacturers need to put better wear indicators in the treads. My car tires have all sorts of clear markings for this purpose.
Great job on the straight forward, logical, real world data, when, why, how to collect it and it's relevance.
I have 19000 mile on my 2018 Harley lowrider, should I change the tires? I would really like an answer. Thanx.
All though this is top notch advice, I must admit one thing that i'm guilty of, and that is, that trough out my 2 years of riding and buying imported and used second hand tires only, I've seen that a tire that's about 5 to 8 years old is the best tire for my financial possibilities, because it's definitely cheaper at that age and is last a whole lot longer. I've had a 20 euro rear tire last me upwards of 3000kms until the thread showed, and not only once. And when i did get newer tires on the rear, say 2-3 years old, they were indeed much softer but lasted a whole lot less. Of course I would buy new tires if i could, but what i'm saying is that i can hang with some fast guys in my area while having cheaper tires. Now i don't knee drag, but my chicken strips are quite thin, and i do accelerate pretty good even at lean with these older tires. I know it's a gamble, but if the pavement is dry, for a beginner and intermediate rider i would say that older tires can work pretty well if you can't really afford new ones but love to ride AND don't corner as if you're on the track.
Thanks for actually showing the wear bars. I guess for other youtubers that was too much to ask! Mine are faint so I wasn’t sure.
I like the no BS report. Thank you.
When i refer to "subject" I mean motorcycling. By the way, last week I was researching to replace the tyres and basically got guided by the manufacturer sites and selected other. Only after having purchased the new set, seems google linked my multiple searches to this video. Maybe there is additional work you may think to do so as to land with this video on the first google search page. I would have definitely wished I saw your video first. Congrats !!
I just want to say I almost didn’t watch this video but when I did I discovered it contains the most accurate information about tires I’ve ever seen in all my research. I almost bought a new set ( to me) of used tires off a guy that changed up his rims, and tires. The tires only had 1,200 miles on them but were off an 2012 bike so they were already 8+ years old? It was so hard to pass up this very good deal, and when I told him why he thought I was crazy. Maybe I am? but I’m glad I didn’t cave, and buy those tires just to save the cash.
Great Video' Only one Comment, i am not disagreeing that both front and rear tires go through the same heat cycles.
The point i am making is- That the Drive friction tire has a hotter cycle than the front, and even though the compounds are normally different from fron to back the front still does Not break down at the same rate. With that said it is good practice to replace both but not always necessary. Thanks again for your Videos.
Love all the videos man! Keep em coming! Just cleaned all my brakes yesterday on my 2015 multi. New HH pads and all power bled with that new $70 Castrol SRF fluid 😁 Would love to see some multistrada suspension videos. Still to this day I can't seem to ever settle on the proper suspension settings in touring or sport mode.
Hey, a suspension video! Thats a great idea! I'll add that to the list! Thanks!!
The tip about the age of the tyre is gold! Tyres can look ok like my 15 year old tyres which were the original tyres on my Kawasaki GPX250. They looked completely fine until I came down in the last heavy rain. So wish I had of known about tyre age before I got into biking. Could have saved myself an accident for the small cost of 2 brand New tyres.
Clear, concise & informative. Your videos on various subjects are great, keep up the good work! PS: kids in my driveway piece was spot on & refreshing in the bad news 'news cycle'
A wealth of information contained in this presentation. Thank you very much for your eloquent explanation relevant as much to you guys on your side of the swamp as it is to us over here in the United Kingdom. Tyre grip has seen the greatest advance in the 45 years I have been riding. And to put it in perspective, in the 135k miles that I rode in my first 3 years on 4 different motorcycles, mainly on rural country roads, I never wore out a set of tyres, nor had a puncture but I ran out of grip on corners twice in the dry and probably a dozen times in the wet. I have covered about 40k miles in the last 5 years on 6 different motorcycles, have had 3 punctures, replaced 7 rear tyres and 3 front ones but have never run out of grip in the wet or dry.
REALLY good video on a (sometimes) underrated topic that's fundamental ! Congrats. att. Pandemonium, Cali, Col.
Why do you recommend following air pressure in owners manual instead of on tire? The pressure shown in the manual is for the stock tires, not an after market tire. If you follow the manual and have a tire failure issue, the tire manufacturer will simply argue that you did not inflate properly, etc, etc, etc. What is the reasoning behind following manual?
The stamp on the tire is the max pressure the tire can handle.
So for future videos maybe show different types of wear and what causes them. For example a tire with too much air pressure and too little. What proper wear should look like. Suspension issues with wear etc. Thanks
Great suggestion!
Thank you guys for doing the great job. I'm planning to buy a motorcycle again . Last time I was driving motorcycle it was before 10 years ago. You have no idea how much this and other videos that you make help me. Thank you guys
Wish you a best 😉
Tha ks loads(pun not intended)! Im about to attain my friends 1981 Honda. cb650 inline 4 cylinder with just 31K miles on the bike(not original tires. Has not been ridden-but stored- for the past 22 years. Front tire is: 3.5" x 17/Rear is: 4.5 x 15. I hope to find, may need to consult with a Honda motorcycle dealer-for a compatible tire.🎉🏍️ Doug
Ride well! 🤘🏻
Cheers from Transylvania!
I've learnt how important inspecting your tyres is when I broke my knee joint and had to pay the medical bills.
it was my first bike, brought it brand new, been stored for only a year, and tyres were only 2 years old when it happened.
I never gauged the pressure for 10 months or even inspected them, they were very low on pressure, I've later inflated them to the recommended pressure, and had an accident where the front suddenly locked only 3 weeks later.
after the accident I inspected them and they were dry rotten which explained why they lost their pressure every few days and I had to regauge them, not to mention that they were bad quality ones(one of the worst), and nobody warned me about them.
so, lesson learned, tyres are the thing that connects your bike to the ground, always inspect them, and never be on a budget when spending on a new pair of tyres, always buy a quality one from a reputable brand no matter how small or cheap your bike is
@4:15 is Big Cottonwood Canyon, just east of Storm Mountain. One of my favorite canyons to rip.
Great information. Direct and to the point. Love the fact you go the extra mile with the spread sheet information. Thank you
Yeah I do to but riding two up all time wears out my center fast hell my edges still like new sucks .
Awesome info I will be following you from now on I have an 02 softail
Right on!
i love the clear and detailed explanations 👌
In your opinion....why do many riders prefer to run Bias ply tires on the front????
They're Manuel suggests running radials....so they do run a radial in the rear...but still want a bias on front????
Thanks so much for yet another helpful video. It's been a few years since I was on the track, but I ride daily and I always enjoy your videos. Really good content, with lots of helpful counsel to learn new things, and refresh on things too. Awesome channel.
Great info! My bike recommends 42psi on the rear! Which seems terribly high. When I have set it at that pressure, it feels hard on the seat of the pants. So I have typically set my rear to 39, feels better to me, and grippier. I run 36 in front. Almost always Bridgestone S21’s
Great video, I occasionally replace tires according to wear bars but sense I ride the twisties a lot, my front wears out toward the area of average lean in the corner. The out of round condition is my main criteria for changing the front. My rear tire does wear more in the center due acceleration and engine braking but I still get consistent wear on the sides, I then rely on wear and tear. I do push the edge a little because I have a good near slick for a short time. If I anticipate a long ride, I just change rather than lose handling on a longer trip.
Enjoy your videos....question, My Indy recommends American Elite tires for my 2012 Harley Street glide....they keep scalloping way before the tread wears out! My bike? or the tires? Thanks
Great video, very informative and very well explained. Thanks
I ride dirt but your videos cover a lot of great knowledge on motorcycle maintenance.
Thanks!
Nice and informative video. Thanks for sharing all your experience on tire wear
Very well explain . I have a benelli 600i bike have got 6 to 7 punctures . I have done 10,000kms do i need to change the tyres
Existing stocks are pirelli angel gt . I want to go with Timsun tyres . Plz give your expert comments
The Pirelli Angel or Metzler Roadtec are pretty hard to beat.
Can i change the sides of the tires .... like the grip of the right side is low so can i change the same tire to side by side
I often see people leave their bikes outside along the curb under a cover all year round. If heat causes tires to break down more quickly, how does extreme cold, water, salt, etc affect them? I'm sure not very well.
CAN YOU GIVE US A RUN DOWN OF HOW TO SET CORRECT TIRE PRESSURE ON A OEM TIRES (STOCK TIRES) ON A 2017 CBR 600RR. THANK YOU
It's listed in the owners manual or a sticker on the swingarm.
Thank you very much for taking time to share this information. I used to apply shoe wax(after thoroughly cleaning the bike) on the side walls of my bike's tires once every 3 or 4 months to make sure that they don't crack. I'm not sure if this is a good or bad idea now???
No tire should crack if it's less than five years old. If you aren't riding enough to burn up a set of tires every five years, reevaluate your life choices, then ride more. :)
Great Advise, Many Details,Gotta Watch The Video A Few More Times. Thank You 😁
I'm running a set of Metzler Tourrance on a '13 BMW GSA. I religiously check tire pressure twice weekly always with the same gauge. It almost never matches what the TPMS says but that is not uncommon for BMW (or so I'm told). I work to maintain factory pressure recommendations but have just found significant cupping on both sides of the front at just 2400 miles. The rear is much more consistent in shape and retains much more tread. The ride adjust is functioning properly and there is no self adjust on the front damper. Is it a pressure issue? A suspension issue? Or just a crappy tire in the canyons (and lots of slow speed practice; warming up every ride, swerve, u turn, figure 8, tight turning from a stop and some emergency stopping)? I was hoping for longer life out of the set. At this rate I could replace the front now and then swap to something different front and back in another 2400 if the rear holds out. Thanks for the video and the calculator!
The most common causes of front tire cupping are too low of a pressure, lots of heavy trail braking, or undamped (underdamped) suspension.
Some tires are more prone to cupping than others, but severe cupping so quickly is a bit concerning. Is your bike super heavy?
@@CanyonChasers thanks for the reply and care. 2013 GSA weighs 580 lbs full of fuel and with unloaded panniers aboard. I'm not a terribly aggressive trail brake guy but i do try. :) I've upped the pressure 4 psi in the front and 2 in the rear. Factory recommendations be damned.
“The use of wide tyres causes another difficulty when the bike rolls because the contact patch moves further and further from the bike’s centreline and from its steering axis. The taller the tyre section the more pronounced these effects are; lower sections minimize them, for a given width of tyre. There are several effects. It reduces the camber thrust for a given angle of lean. Ironically, a bike with a higher centre of gravity or with the centre of gravity shifted in towards the turn, will require less angle of lean to balance its centrifugal force.”
I took it off John Robinson’s book, Motorcycle Tuning Chassis second edition under the section of contact area in tyres.
Perhaps maybe you could do a video why wider tyres need more lean angle to turn and narrow tyres use less. And how how centrifugal force is actually needed to turn with the same bike but different width tyres. Perhaps you can mention why did MotoGP used 16.5 wheels and why some asian drag bikes used bicycle sized wheels on their drag bikes.
Thank you in advance
I love your great vids!
You guys have awesome quality vids and the sound is clear and loud. I don't have to cup the rear speaker of my stupid Galaxy 5 phone
What tire pressure do you recommend for multistrada 1200 with piellie angel gt on them and i ride aggressively on the street and sometimes on canyon roads. Many thanks
@CanyonChasers I still don't understand why the front tire on motorcycles is mounted the other way around. It looks like the tire tread should push water under the wheel.
This is a super common question. It's because they are applying torque to the road surface backwards. Under braking - not acceleration like the rear wheels - (or the front wheels on a front wheel drive car)
@@CanyonChasers First, thank you for super fast answer. Maybe you could make video about this because I still don't understand. I mean water behavior under the wheel. All I can see is aquaplaning.
I got my bike in 2015. Lot of cracks in it and cuts. Probably in the nwxt few months
I agree, fantastic video, and very informative. I'm new to the bike world. I recently purchased a used 2018 CVO Street Glide with 5000 miles from a dealership. They did an "inspection" of the bike and made sure it was safe. I'm still a bit confused on whether or not I should get new tires. What would you recommend?
What is the date stamp on them?
Angel GT tires are zero mile tire for me. Would never use them again. Front braking = no grip and as they wear the front gets real funky
Lesson, well learned! Thank you for your help.
I bought my 848 evo used and the original owner somehow lost the manual so i cant find the proper tire pressure for the tires. Ive done some digging online and cant find a consistant safe number. Any info would be greatly valued.
I did learn a lot. Information is well delivered and absolutely clear!
Excellent video! Very valuable information.
Just watched your video and every person i talked to said to run the pressure on the side wall of tire....and i have shinko tires for Kawasaki vulcan and the tire pressure on the rail says 28 psi front and 32 rear...tire says 49 front cold 42 rear cold...ive been running the tire pressure WHAT IS ACTUAL PRESSURE..please tell me!!
Trust your owners manual. The tire manufacturer doesn't know how much your bike weighs. They don't even know what bike the tire will end up on. The tire on the sidewall is the maximum pressure the tire can be aired up to.
Hi what is the tire info when the groeve in the rubber wears difrent What i mean the groeve from inside to outside the first line is getting round the back line off the groeve stays Sharp ???
If I'm understanding you correctly, the grooves, or sipes, will round off from acceleration (mostly). So as you accelerate out of a corner, they will wear specifically at the lean angle you are comfortable getting back into the gas.
Ok thanks ... so the ronder groove in front of the groove is normal becouse the second line in the same groove is stil Sharp and looking good . There is then notting wrong with the suspension, not that i feel something when sportif riding
Road attack 3’s for the win. S22’s amazing also
What do u think about the bridge stone exdra tire have a Honda cruiser
Excellent video! I thought I knew mc tires, but learned a lot!
Thanks for such valuable information. I ride a bobber motorcycle in Quito, Ecuador (2850 meters above sea level) I have placed double purpose tyres because of low quality asphalt and lousy maintnance in our city strrets and roads...
I have a question for you, would you recommend filling the tyres with nitrogen other than regular air? If yes, why? if not, why?
Thanks. José Vela
No, nitrogen is not worth it at all. There is no real-world benefit to this.
Congrats! Pratical view of tyre wear.
Maybe you could give me some extra info i've been looking for like mad, such as tyre carcass (soft or hard). I found (personal experience and generally speaking) that Dunlop (roadsmart III and GPR 300) has a hard carcass (tons of info) and Pirelli (Angel GT 2) and Bridgestone (T31 and S22) both have a soft carcass (info is hiden or absorbed, quiet or relaxed ride). What's your opinion about these carcasses?
I see that you have the Metzeler Roadtec 01 (in this video) and the Continental Conti Roadattack 3 review. And what about these (soft or hard)?
Have any feedback about Michelin (power RS 10 and Pilot Road 5) and Shinko (009 Raven and 712) carcasses? Never wear these two brands, so no idea.
Thanks.
I just found a cut about 3 inches long on the side of my 180 5517 2010 cbr600rr can the tire fall apart on me if I ride it like that
ask yourself a new question. whats more expensive? a new rear tire or an ambulance ride when the tire comes apart? just get a new tire
Change tires in pairs....
Yup, that is what we have always been told...
Yet over the span of 30 years on older air head BMWs my Metzeler rears are totally worn out while the fronts have half their tread left. What a pain. And replace the tubes each time you change the tire. I must have a dozen tubes that for all intent and purposes appear perfectly fine sitting in my garage. There are only so many uses for motorcycle tubes.
Always enjoy your videos. 🇨🇦
Very good content 😀. Do you know if it’s okay to put on performance tires on a sport touring bike to get more grip ?
Well, that question makes me want to ask a lot of following questions. How fast are you going that you are exceeding the limits of a modern sport touring tire? I've done track days and dragged knees on ST tires. A) My first thought would to put you on a better set of ST tires. B) are you being abrupt with the control? Tires can handle an incredible amount of force, but not suddenly.
But, yeah, you can put hypersport tires on your bike, but be prepared, the rear may not last 1500k (less than 1000 miles).
Underrated video
I'd like to see you guys do an episode discussing tire pressure. I try to set my tires to the factory recommendation cold, but cold can mean different things at different times of year. My KTM displays the current tire pressure and it seems to me like I ought to be establishing an optimal hot pressure and adjusting the cold pressure so that when the tire heats up it will arrive at that optimal hot pressure.
Of course different tires and riding requirements will have an effect too.
My take is that the motorcycle manufacturer's recommendation is a good starting place but can be improved upon.
Thoughts or comments?
This is a great idea! Because when it's super cold, a cold tore pressure might end up being too high, right?!?
Thanks for the idea!
@@CanyonChasers Exactly. I built a T-500 into a road racer in the mid-70s. One of the old timers back then told me that an underinflated tire will gain more pressure when it heats up and an overinflated tire will gain less. He said that you want the tires to gain X psi when they heat up. It's been so long that I don't remember the number that he gave me but the idea stuck with me. Of course the faster one goes the hotter the tire is likely to get and as you mentioned setting the cold pressure on a cold day will produce a different result than using the same pressure on a hot day.
The truth is for me and I think for a lot of people there's some black magic involved in the whole tire pressure thing. I understand the basic principles but that's about as far as it goes. If I knew more I could obtain better results.
As I mentioned before, my 1290 SAS has integral pressure transmitters so I can get a reading on the fly it seems like this should be a really useful tool but if I don't know what I"m shooting for it's not that much help. Incidentally KTM recommends 35/42 psi cold. That's much more than any other bike I've ever had. But I'm sure they know what they are doing.
@@Eric-Marsh Pretty standard 36/42
Smarter now. Thanks.
Thank you guys for the great videos. Helpful reminders
Good stuff! When I bought my Blackbird it had a set of Bridgestone Battlaxes (2ct rear and regular up front) with a very uneven wear pattern. The tires were not worn out, but the bike handled like a pig. Replaced the set with a set of Michelin Pilot Power 3's, and the difference is night and day. Check yourself, before you wreck yourself.
If you like the PP3s you should try the Power RS, they are supposed to be amazing on high powered bikes like a Blackbird that will see a lot of fast road riding plus occasional track days.
Love the Vittore Cossalter book on your workbench,,,,
My pirelli angel gt got 5210 kms only why is that? Set the tire psi at 33 front and 36 rear as what it is indicated in my versys 650 manual.
That's not out of line. The aggregate they use to build local roads has a lot to do with it. As well as average temperature. If you are big or carry a lot of weight, you manual probably has higher psi recommendations for when the bike is loaded.
Good video. I have a HD Road Glide. Do you have a tire mileage chart for touring bikes.
The tire chart works no matter the kind of bike or the kind of tire. You just have to log your tires and your wear for the greatest accuracy.
I love having new rubber on my bike, and so I end up replacing my tires (always in matched sets) much earlier than recommended. In my humble estimation, tires are the absolute most important aspect of the bike because it's all that stands betwixt me and the pavement. So, it behooves all of us to not play cheapskate with rubber. Ride safe, friends!
I totally agree. I also hate being on a road trip worrying if my tire is going to last long enough to get home. I'll just put new tires on so I don't have to think about it.
Once again another great video! Love my 2013 Multistrada GT but hate the air it kicks. Bought some $70 brake fluid and going to flush soon.
Already replaced the infamous fuel sensor once...may have to soon. Have you a fix for that? LOL
Nice shop, thanks! Both vices, Blue $ Vintage, make great couple!
Noticed the outer part of my tire is starting to curving up.. is that bad? (Where the chicken strip will be)
My FJR1300 beats up the walls of front tires. Even though there is tons of tread left, the handling goes to mush after 4,000 miles.
This is not uncommon when it comes to heavy bikes ridden quickly.
First of all great video! Thank you! Second of all my question: how can you tell if you need to replace your "sneakers" on your motorbike if you bought it second hand with no data on how long they have been on it, but according to all the other information you can make up with your eyes it looks good enough? So if it's an old Honda CB-1 / CB400F in my case. Thanks a lot! And have a good one!
Good question! Look at the date stamp on the tire. Thats the biggest factor. Remember, tires are cheaper than tipovers. So, if in doubt, throw them out. Also, love the CB-1. I had one years ago. It's one of the few bikes i regret selling. A peach of a bike.
Lol mine are all ways worn out I go though a set every 2 weeks..
So if the neck of your bike one tire pressure like mine is 29 in the front and 36 in the back but the tires say 41 so I should go by the tire pressure on the neck
Yes, always go with the pressure listed for your bike. The tire doesn't now if its fitted to a Honda Rebel or a Honda Goldwing. 41 is the the max pressure the tire is rated for.
Great article on tyre wear, thank you very much.
Dang, this a good channel!
Thanks for that informative video !
1:05 so is this tire the wrong way ? Cause now he's pushing water to the center ...
WHY DOES NOBODY POINT TO THE "Bars" ? There's grooves and bars all over which is it @ 1:00
What about tubes? Do they need to be replaced with every new tire?
Yes. Tubes should be replaced at the same time. We've been stranded more than once by trying to use one tube for two tires.
so have you guys had any experience with the Pilot Road series since the PR2s that baked out on you? I have a set of Road 5s on my Versys and they have to be the best tires I've ever run, though the back is starting to cup a tad, but took a lot longer to start cupping than the PR4s I previously run. I suspect it will hit the wear bars in back before the cupping gets too bad, I also have about 6000mi on the back with no sign of baking out, based on how it is wearing, I suspect I will get 8000mi out of the rear, no idea on the front yet, I got 10k out of a PR4 front. I also suspect I would get better tire life than a typical sport touring bike as a 64hp Versys 650 isn't going to be nearly as hard on tires as a 150+hp Multistrada.
We have never had any luck with the Pilot series. They tend to do better in cold/wet climates. When we ride them in the arid (hot) rocky mountain west, they bake out - get super hard. They last a long time, but the level of grip is nothing like when they were new.
CanyonChasers Motorcycle Adventure, Sport and Touring ,