MK3 Vauxhall Cavalier Lower Control Arm (Wishbone) Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2022
- In this video I replace the lower control arm also known as a wishbone, on my 1995 Vauxhall Cavalier not 1986 like I said in the video 🤦♂️
If you found this video entertaining or informative then consider buying me a coffee (or a cup of tea in my case 😁)
buymeacoffee.com/cavalier_steve 
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Good video Steve, I must say, I'm really impressed with the "manual torque wrench" 😂🤣, however, needs must in those situations, cheers mate 👍
Haha I don’t think torque settings is critical on certain parts of the car just make sure it’s tight but not so tight it shears the bolt off. I’m glad you got the video come through for you mate!
Dab of Fairy liquid on the rubber really helps to slide it into position.
That’s a great suggestion! Thank you.
Excellent video Steve. Enjoyed that. I’ve just had this very job done on my 1994 Cavalier 2.0i 8v LS 2 days ago. I wouldn’t dream of tackling myself but very interesting to see exactly what’s involved. My garage charged one hour each side which seems fair. They were surprised the parts were still available. My next job is to replace the corroded fuel pipes but seemingly you can use generic parts for that. I’ve had my Cav 22 years and I’m determined to keep it going. Now under 1,000 Mk3s still running.
Thanks for you kind comment, I really appreciate feedback like this so I can continue to make my videos better.
wow good for you keeping your Cavalier going and for so long as well, believe it or not on Cavaliers depending on what gearbox is fitted you can pull the input shaft out from the other side and the clutch just slips in and out from the inspection plate, (great design by Vauxhall!) to be fair on a old car it’s well worth taking the gearbox out and inspecting the input shaft, flywheel, and replacement of the thrust bearing.
Advice for the fuel lines, not sure how involved or how much you know but the fuel lines is made up of 2 different materials, the steel line which is 8mm OD (outer diameter) this I think is in 2 separate parts between the engine bay down to near the OS wish bone where if goes to a rubber line which is only short so I guess this is for expansion/contraction and movement, it continues the length of the car in steel and then there is another rubber hose between the tank and the line, when you buy or ask someone to replace the lines make sure you use R9 rated rubber fuel hose it’s expensive to buy but it’s rated to be resistant against ethanol that’s in modern fuels, the rubber fuel line is 8mm ID or 7.9mm which I suppose matches up to an imperial number. There are 3 lines that from from the tank Fuel feed and return and the 3rd is for fuel tank ventilation which runs to the OS front wing where it goes to a carbon canister. Sorry for all the info but I have bought R6 (which most shops try to sell you and some have never heard of R9) it will fail after 4 or 5 years even with the premium fuel. I hope this helps.
All the best. Steve.
Wow, what a useful and informative reply! I thought my clutch was about to go a few months ago but thankfully a new cable fixed it. My garage told me about the rubber hoses at each end of the metal pipe yesterday morning when I collected the car. Not the fine detail about the R9 hoses that you state though! I am very interested in making the car E10 compliant though. Is the pipe and R9 hoses at each end enough to make the car E10 proof do you know?( Mine is the ancient C20NE dating back to 1986). That said I will continue to put in E5 for as long as it’s available. I’ve heard bad things about E10 - much poorer fuel economy, loosening of sludge in fuel tank, rotting of rubbers and seals etc. The garage said they’ll do it but best time is mid Summer with longer days and better light. I’ll be making sure it’s down to a gallon of fuel in the tank too because I know disconnecting from the fuel tank end can be messy. Corroded fuel pipes has appeared as an advisory on my last 10 MoTs without ever being described as serious but I’d still like it sorted.
There are currently around 1,250 roadworthy Cavs in the U.K. and all but around 300 are Mark 3. According to this excellent site which updates in real time.
www.carlogbook.co.uk/vauxhall/cavalier/
However, there are thought to be 2 or 3 thousand SORNed Mark 3s around and I expect a few of them to reappear if they take off as a classic car. There’s every indication they will - good ones below £2,000 are now impossible to find. It sold in huge numbers across Europe as the Opel Vectra A so hopefully spares will be fine for a while yet.
Your most welcome, I’m not 100% sure for a E10 conversion, I heard a couple of days ago that a company can provide an E10 conversion kit although what that includes I don’t know yet. I would keep with the E5 whilst it’s available as you say, the issue is we don’t know what E10 can do with the seals in the injectors, thankfully I don’t know of much more rubber in the fuel lines but then the other issue is, is the ECU capable or injecting more fuel to the injectors to maintain the air fuel ratio on hard acceleration? I’m sure the ECU can be tuned to suit but then it’s not standard!
I’m going to check that site out what you listed as the one I used was updated yearly I think so it missed out on cars that are used in the summer months only.
Like you say they are really getting up there in money now I’m glad I got my MK 3 when I did it’s such a good car underneath and where it counts it’s just a little tatty in places but these will get rectified over time which you will see on here hopefully.
Cheers for the reply I do enjoy reading these messages. Cheers.