Yeah..everybody has a different take on bass. I just wanted the very lower end filled out with music. In a natural way. Very subtle. My speakers reach pretty deep so I did not need a lot. I am the guy who does not want subwoofers that call attention to themselves. This week I receive my two REL T/5Xs (after you told me about the sale!). I blended them in over the weekend in my stereo set-up using high-output lines, crossover settings and volume. I have them blending in super subtle and they are GREAT! Natural. Thanks for reviewing them a while back..…The LFE input, with the separate volume control makes them a winner with my surround-sound TV viewing as well! Can you say WIN- WIN! 😁👍🏼
I have a dual multi array of 10 inch Rel-6 total. It's all tuned correctly and with a lot of care. What I am getting at, is when I go to a concert, there is no lack of bass. None of the groups I listen to are light on bass-in concert. On recordings it is a different story. So yes I like bass, I like it up to a low mid (because I use bookshelf speakers ) and down all the way to 20 Hz. Better to have too much and dial it down than to have too little and do nothing. Thanks for the review.
I just got the 1v and I am thoroughly impressed. The fit and finish is top notch and the sound is tremendous. It took me about 2 hours but I finally got it to blend with my rythmik e15hp2. It is said that you shouldn't mix ported and sealed but I think I found my end-game sub combo. 💣💥💯
Thank you very much for this Review! Sounds like im going to safe for the 1961 1S which seems to fit my needs :) Greetings from Germany - keep on with your good work! :)
I think something else that might be worth mentioning is that as a consumer what kind of gear do you have compared to the reviewer that you are watching. For example I run large Tower speakers in both my houses and they integrate seamlessly with dual SVS SB 3000. I wouldn't trade them for any other subwoofer in the world but if I ran bookshelves I definitely would go a different route. Seems like a lot of people are looking for the one-size-fits-all solution and I appreciate that you do mention that there are a lot of variables
Integration methods and preferences can also drastically change the outcome of how products work together. For example someone else may take my exact setup crossover the speakers and Subs at 80 Hz and turn the subwoofer gain way up. This may result in a unpleasant experience making that person think this is a bad match. Personally I like to run my Tower speakers full range and lightly blend in my subwoofers at the natural roll off point of my speakers to get full range. That's what sounds best to me but it's just my preference. I barely use my subwoofers and definitely don't bring them anywhere near their fullest potential and I'm sure some people would think that's a waste but for how I like to use my subwoofers they work perfectly for me. Holyshit I'm just rambling on and on. I don't blame you if you gave up on reading this about halfway through LOL I think I drank too much pre-workout this morning
bahahaha I didn't give up lol, the way you set it up is actually the way I do it also, I like to keep the bass in the speakers and add the sub where it's needed, forcing the sub to play higher frequencies is usually not the best idea.
@@NemoPropaganda That's great news cuz I know you have a lot more experience with a lot more subs than me. I'm excited to get my back ordered Anthem MRX 1140. Curious to see how good ARC Genesis room correction works with 2 independent sub outs to separately calibrate left and right. The web interface looks pretty complex but I'm excited to spend time with it and learn.
Great timing, I have some 1961 monitors enroute and am debating between a pair of these 1S or the SVS SB-2000 pro’s for our family room. Currently have a PB-3000 pro but it’s just too much and doesn’t pair well with our current KEF LS50. The biggest pro for me is the SVS app is great for a multi-use system for on the fly adjustments.
keep in mind that PB3000 will murder the 1961 1S in the lower frequencies where you experience that theater rumble. I would wait and see how your current sub pairs with your new speakers as they are much larger than your current Meta.
Hey!! Bro. I have BINGED your content this holiday. What an awesome channel. I can sit here and listen to you talk speakers for hours. Please review the 1961 1V! I am really looking at snagging it and the numbers are really close frequency wise to 1723. Wanna see how it compares!
hey what's up man, thank you for the kind words. I'm fairly picky with vented subs since I focus on subwoofers for 2ch music and most vented subs are not ideal for primarily music only systems. As far as size goes the 1961 1V is actually a good amount larger than the 1723 1S so I don't think it's a size issue, for reference the 1961 1V is 22lbs heavier! I think most mixed systems or music first customers would be happier with the sealed 1723 1S over the vented 1961 1V.
Awesome man!!! Thanks for speedy response. Keep up the. Good work!! Are you gonna review 1723 Monitor S? I'm wrestling with those and S400 mkii. Movie first listener. I know you love Bucharest but hoping you can give me your opinion.
@@Jusstisse I have already reviewed the 1723 bookshelf S so I don't think I will also review the monitor. I certainly love Buchardt and I feel their speakers would be excellent for theater for anyone with a music first theater secondary system. However if you're theater first and music secondary I think the Arendal 1723 offerrings are better suited for that. They are designed to handle the dynamic swings of theater much better. Hope that helps.
XDM yes the ASW610 is an old sub, but it actually has plenty of extension, what it lacks is output which Matt doesn't need since as he mentioned under 75dB is where he listens...
@@NemoPropaganda to add some context, I bought a used ASW08 last year for about $200. The sound quality was perfect, as I expected, but i didn’t expect the extension, for what it is. I found a gently used ASW10 for $220. I want to see if extends lower without losing sound quality. It is going in a secondary room that will do 2.1 for music and TV.. would I buy a new one for $800? No! I’d get a REL or L12. But for the price (yes, I broke the rule and cheaped out), the ASW10 is perfect for my needs and is freeing up money to go get my wife her own pistol this weekend.
I am on a super budget and in EU, which means SVS SB1000 comes at 820 USD. It competes directly with the Arendal. I went with REL HT1003 for around 400 USD on a demo deal, but my choices were either Arendal or XTZ sound. XTZ sound is starting to generate a lot of buzz right now, would be awesome if you get one of them to review. CHeers.
Hey, Great review. Really like the way you mentioned about the sound quality and the comparisons. Also, I find the video quality lot better.. Using your new mobile for recording ?
Thank's man, yeah I'm using the 13 mini now but it makes me look red in the video so I have to keep changing the color of the video now, super annoying but I think I can fix it with moving around my lights, we'll see in the next video lol
Thank you for your review. Loved it. Just got hold of the 1S … I’m loving it. In a medium small room I find it easier to integrate than the Rythmik F12. Maybe it’s because the 1S does not dig as deep as the F12. But the 1S is great for music. Superb for the price.
As always a great video. I kind of wish you had gotten in the 1723 2S. I don’t know why exactly, but I’m just always drawn to duel opposing subwoofer designs.
I had the option to ask for that as a review sample and personally I REALLY wanted to try that one but at $2300 I felt that most people wouldn't find the review very helpful as it's too much out of their budget. I think most of my audience is looking to spend less which is why I opted for the 1961 1S, I do have the 1723 1S here though and that review will come soon.
Very good review, i got the 1961 1s and i really agree with you. I listen to alot of music but movies is the thing for me. And i can always set it pre set for music. I love it!!
@@NemoPropaganda well hahaha i wawtched this rev many times. This even convinced me to order another one:) Im getting it on monday. That will be very fun to see if 2 subs really gonna make a different. I have a open plan, which sux. But ... You should really try out XTZ 12,17 edge. Somewhat different and really good for the money. Check em out.
@Comi playnow hi, yes still moving air. Works great. Fast and accurate. Love em. But I would like to try the vented one. But I think i got more then enough bass
About to hit the button on this one.. I just have one question with the hook up. TO have the music play like via Bluetooth do you have to plug the right and left in the sub.. And then plug into the the back of the receiver..
@@NemoPropaganda thanks.. Its just when music is playing I do not hear the subwoofer.. I here it when movies play.. And I put some heavy bass music on... 😂😂
Would you choose the Arendal over the svs sb3000. I remember you saying that the attack of the sb3000 was really good. I know this 1961 more directly competes with the SB2000 pro, but it specs pretty close to the SB3000.
So I decided to give both the Arendal 1961 S and the Svs SB 3000 a trial. It would be interesting to compare them both sides by side. I wish I could afford a JL E110 but they are way out of my budget, your review definitely got me thinking about more bass. I would've tried the Arendal 1961 monitors had I not built CSS Criton 1tdx. And I gotta say they are really crisp well articulated speakers.
Hi Nemo. Great review. How would the 1961 1S fare against the Rel Ht/1205? Room is 5 x 6.5 meters with use divided more or less equally btw TV, movies and music? Arendal will be raising their prices by up to 15% on Nov. 1st. My choices are limited due to shipping costs and have narrowed them down to Arendal, Emotiva, and Rel.
The Arendal is built to a higher standard, you get a better cabinet and a beefier driver. At the limit and during strong bass like in movies the $200 more expensive 1961 will show it's dominance over the HT1205. For music the REL HT1205 will blend a little better and have a more natural response. It's important to remember the 1961 is $200 more money so when you look at it like that it's easy to see why it's built better in just about every way. I absolutely love the REL HT1205 but more expensive subwoofers generally will be built better and capable of more output and in the case of the 1961 we have some very good sound quality too.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks Nemo. I appreciate your advice and will act on it. I was really on the fence there for a while, especially since in room listening, or the return hassle, aren't options for me. I'll contact Arendal and see if they recommend dual 1961 1s or a single 1723 1s. All the best. Cheers.
@@khalidyousif7683 you got it brother, if you have the budget for the 1723 the REL Predator is also on sale for the next 4 days making it the same price :D now that's a tough decision!
@@NemoPropaganda Funny you mention that, I was just eyeing it this afternoon. I even started thinking about why not go for the Predator now, and next year maybe get two 7x's for the front, move the predator to the back and get that Rel 3D sound for the best of both worlds. ha ha, decisions indeed. But, you know what? This idea is now starting to grow on me... Guess I'll go back and sit on the fence for a day or two and ponder on this.... The Rel Predator has a lot going for it from reviews, and on sale would be a steal (shipping costs included) plus it's conventional forward facing, so provides more options for placement (i.e doesn't have to be 10 cms from the wall like the side firing drivers on the Arendal) since my room is like a lounge/entertainment/living laid back setting.
Great video. Glad to see the Arendal range getting some coverage. Would this be sufficient for a music only system in a 5m x 7m room. I currently have an SVS Micro on trial that works, but I am looking to see if this will be better for music.
I think it's important to remember the size difference is considerable and SVS own larger subs (even the 1000) can outperform the small Micro. Yes the 1961 is far more capable in all respects than the 3000 Micro but begs the questions how much bass do you want? I'm guessing you bought the micro for the small size, what makes you consider a larger sub now?
@@NemoPropaganda it was to pass the wife test, which it did. I have since tried something slightly larger, Rel 9x, but still feel the Micro can hold its own. The wife didn’t recoil at the size of the Rel, so reckon I could get away with the Arendal.
@@NMiley20 fair enough :) the larger 1961 should have a much forceful presentation if that's what you're looking for. I didn't compare it to the Micro due to the size difference but the 1961 will extend lower, play louder, etc... etc...
@@NemoPropaganda thanks, love the channel too. Your comparisons to food / cars are spot on. For example, I find the REL integrates much better with my mains, which most would prefer, but I miss the brute power of the SVS. I like my food spicy.
@@NMiley20 try moving the REL around little by little, maybe in inch back, turn up the gain 1-2 click, turn down the crossover 1-2 clicks. If you have a T7 or larger you should be able to get some pretty good slam out of it.
Really great review. My next sub is going to be a arendal sub then. Can u do more reviews of the arendal subs then?. Type like the 1961 1v, 1723 2s and 2v then.
@@NemoPropaganda ahh. Ok. I have owned 3 subs that weighs more than 110 pounds then. Velodyne hgs 18, svs sb 16 u and xtz cinema 3×12 sub. So my next sub is going to be either the 1723 1s or the 1723 2s then.😊😉👍
@@mysterypc9896 bahahaha, well I did review the JBL 550p, that badboy goes on sale for as low as $197!! I don't think you can do better for the money if you need something super budget. The JBL is a sealed 10" with 300w RMS!! Rather capable for the money and still musical.
hi Man, thank U for another great review. So as U mentioned tythmik is delivering the exact portion of dynamics and seems most acourate. If U will have to choose brand available at eu to get similar nature to rythmik what U would choose? I found svs are too colorued and cannot used them :/ so definafelly must go for something from. other shelf. Thank U
Hi A! REL is an outstanding option with a sound quality first focused design and you should be able to demo them at a local dealer. If you're looking for more output for your dollar the Arendal 1723 1S is a great option too and strikes a good balance of sound quality while still offering tremendous output. This channel also has a free discord if you want to get other peoples opinion, link is in all the newer videos.
Depends on room size, for larger room a pair of 1961 should outperform most single subwoofers. But if i didn't need the output the single 1723 has a wonderful sound. Headsup Arendal recommends stacking the subwoofers when using duals :).
So I've narrowed it down to this Arendal 1961 1S sub or the REL HT/1205 for $100 less. I'm 60/40 music/HT and my fronts are KLH model 5s. so I can cross these over low, as those have good extension anyway. Is there anything to push me in one direction or the other?
The 1961 gives you better build quality from top to bottom and more features a la the fine grain DSP controls with it's dominant characteristic being it's strong attack while the HT-1205 is incredibly easy to setup and it's dominant characteristic is being able to get out of the way and integrate with damn near any speaker under the sun. Ultimately both are very good. Is there one perhaps that you like the look of more?
@@NemoPropagandaI sorta like the tall skinny look of the 1961, but since its going in the left corner of the room, it looks like the driver will end up being pointed right at the left KLH speaker. Probably doesn't make a difference, but I think the intention was that it was supposed to point to the corner, but the right corner of the room is a no go. I was going to cheap out and go Rythmik L12 but I might figured more watts would help when I occasionally do use it for HT.
@@jonuiuc oh bro you're in the USA? Get the Rythmik L12 and don't look back. It was my 2020 product of the year for good reason :). Unless your room is really big you'll be just fine.
@@NemoPropaganda Nice! Thanks you saved me some money, I thought the other two would be the minimum I'd need so they go sufficiently below the KLHs (those things have big 10" woofers, so I don't need sub-midbass I just need that extra low end below 40hz, but with speed to blend with the sealed KLHs), but I'm happy enough to save $200 if the Rythmik is comparable to the other two.
Awesome, someone that also don't like spicy food I almost thought I was alone with that since everyone I know likes spicy and hot food. And I agree too much black pepper will make the food spicy, lol :D Great review btw!
it depends how loud you listen. I listen to a lot of techno also (love alan walker) but I've noticed a lot of people listen to this genre extremely loud. And room size matters too.
@@audriuszem3967 Arendal 1723 1S should get the job done. If that's out of the budget you can get one of the smaller ones you listed but be prepared to add a second one as finances allow. I have not heard XTZ so I can't comment on that.
@@audriuszem3967 i usually prefer to have 1 of a better item than 2 lesser items. The 1205 V1 is great but the 1723 1S is built to a much higher standard.
Another great review, the sub looks impressive. I know ported is what you want for home cinema but the 1961 1v and the 1723 2s are roughly the same size. So forget price, which is the better sub for HT???
I have not heard either one but I think I would go for 1723 2S because with my experience with 1961 1S and 1723 1S the 1723 was more refined sounding and I'm guessing that will transfer to the 2S model also!
Please advise Nemo. I have a room 5x3.4x2.6m. I watch a video and listen to music so that the canvas and the couch are on the long walls. I watch mostly television, concerts and sports broadcasts and natural history and educational programs and less movies. I have an Atmos 5.2.4 Bowers Wilkins sound system, 705S2 in the front. I want to buy two subwoofers! I am deciding between 2x BW DB4S, 2x HT1205MK2 and 2x T9x. Which would be best for me? The second question, when would you flirt regardless of the price? Does it make sense to go even higher, like the S812?
B&W subwoofers sound great but their marketing is very misleading. They quote peak power and NOT rms, the DB4S appears to only have 195w RMS which is a bit underpowered for the money and I will not recommend them until they start being more honest with their specs. As far as REL T9X vs 1205 MK2 it's simple. I love both, get the T9X if your highest priority is bass detail, tone, & texture. Get the 1205 MK2 if your higher priority is extension & output. Based on what you're saying I think T9X is the logical choice. I have not heard the S812 so I cannot comment on that.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you for your response. BW DB4S is equipped with a Hypex NC502MP amplifier in a bridge connection. I have this confirmed. So if the performance of the amplifier in the BW DB4S was fine, does it sound better than the REL? As for the T9x, I'm still concerned about the passive radiator, in my opinion it slows down the bass reproduction, and I don't know to what extent there may be an acoustic short circuit at some frequencies.
@@IvanF-m8w Sorry I'm not sure I understand what your concerns are with the T9X but B&W make a nice sounding sub and it seems like you prefer to stick to the same brand so just buy that.
@@NemoPropaganda Maybe I didn't write it clearly. I am concerned whether a subwoofer (in general) with a passive radiator is not slower than a subwoofer with a closed enclosure. For example T9x vs HT1205MKII. I don't really favor any brand. I choose from what is available in Europe...
@@IvanF-m8w oh okay, yeah most PR subs sound more like vented subs, REL is not like that though. I consider their PR sub to be a sealed sub. Hope that helps. 1205 MK2 will extend lower and play louder than a T9X but the T9X has better tone & texture. Both subs have excellent transient response.
I am using a audioengine a2+ with rca to eversolo dmp-a6 and a toslink to pc. Since AE a2+ lacks bass. I am considering this subwoofer but dmp-a6 only has a pair of rca output. So i was wondering if i can use 1s subwoofer input to power my AE a2+ and have the 1s subwoofer connected to my dmp-a6 instead. So i would not need an additional amplifier? I was considering cambridge audio axa35 but if 1s subwoofer can power my AE a2+ i can save on the cost of having additional amplifier also since im only using AE a2+ i dont think a amplifier is needed. Any advise?
If i want a subwoofer in Europe to play tight/quick and quality bass what should i choose? Got Audiovector qr5. You think qr sub or rel will be a good choice for me? :)
i have 4 subs in even smaller room and its not about bass volume level its about texture or thickness and even equal sound spread around the room with no position differences - no matter where u sit bass perception is the same..! so more /subs/ is better to achieve that goal
@@NemoPropaganda my receiver have 2 independent sub outs so audyssey splits them on 2 channels then it goes mini DSP 2/4 hd for further 4 sub precise calibration
Hello, how does this compare to the RSL Speedwoofer? I was thinking about getting the 1961 Bookies and the Speedwoofer and saving some $$. Any good? Thanks!
Hi Gale, 1961 1S is more refined than the RSL speedwoofer 10s. If you can afford the Arendal it is the better sub. But the speedwoofer is also very good. If you're in the USA and looking to save some cash I think the Rythmik L12 is a great option, it's a little more than the RSL but a little cheaper than the 1961.
@@NemoPropaganda Hello, a little context. I am only concerned with 2.1 channel music. Whatever it does for HT, is cool with me. So, the SVS micro or the Arendal smaller sub. Paired with the 1961 bookies. Would those be pretty equal for music? I listen to blues, classic rock, grunge and classic metal mostly. Not usually super loud, but crank it up from time to time. Ha. I like the size of the SVS micro. Just wonder if it’ll be as good of a match with the Arendal bookshelfs. Could see going up to the bigger Arendal bookshelfs at some point. Thanks for any thoughts on this. I really enjoy your videos. Also, basic medium room.
@@galevenosdel21 Mircro is really good for how small it is but the much larger 1961 1S will have a larger sense of scale. If you need a small sub go for the Micro for sure. But if you can fit something larger I'd go for the 1961 1S.
A lot of that depends on your room but generally vented subs have stronger rumbly bass while sealed subs have stronger attack/tactile bass. Gunfire is tactile bass so I think you will be very happy with the 1961 assuming your room isn't gigantic.
More than 1 × 1961 1s is even better than. I saw on fb that one has 4 × 1723 2s subs and another have 8 × 1723 1 (legacy) subs then. Talking of bass pressure then.😊🤯👍💪
Hi bro, i have not heard the 1v but being vented you can expect it to play louder and have a thicker bottom end at the expensve of some transient response.
Hello, and thank you for your reviews! I have decided to upgrade my B&W DM 683 stereo system with a subwoofer. Through research and by watching your videos I have narrowed it down to: Arendal 1961 1s - 951 USD SVS SB-1000 Pro - 739 USD SVS SB-2000 Pro - 1162 USD XTZ 12.17 Edge - 951 USD My main focus is music. I like the bass to be like a small earthquake. I want to physical feel the lower bass lines in songs like "Jeezy - Put on", and the first drop in "Northlane - Crash & Burn" (40sec ->). The room (living room and kitchen) is like a mirrored L-shape, with the sofa- /TV section in one end. There is not enough space for a subwoofer at front wall together with the TV and loudspeakers. It has to be placed on the left wall at the front end of the corner sofa. I made a picture that shows the floor plan with furniture etc. but I am unable to post a comment with a link to it. I gave up after multiple attempts to manipulate the link with spaces. If you would like to see it, I can send it through another message instance. As a Norwegian I probably should go for the Arendal :). This might be a good choice either way, as it beats the SVS SB-2000 Pro in many of my preferences in the comparison you make. But does the layout of my living room and placement of the subwoofer dictate one of these subwoofers over the others? Is the cheaper SVS SB-1000 Pro just as good for my use, or will the extra 200 USD for the SB-2000 Pro be worth it? The XTZ seems to be more driven towards movies and home theater, but I have heard it's a brilliant subwoofer for the price. Which one would you pick, Nemo? Thanks in advance
based on what you're describing I think you'd prefer something like the Arendal 1961 1V or 1723 1S. SVS is great too but pricing in your region makes Arendal the easy choice. Only ported subs or larger sealed subs can play those frequencies with authority. There are some smaller subs that can do it too but they are expensive.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you for your reply! Yeah, I guess a ported sub in that price range is the better choice for me. I'll take a closer look at the Arendal 1961 1V. It seems to be perfect for my needs :)
Hi! Nice review as always! I am learning a lot about subs. Any chance to review some arendal speakers for 2 Channel or 2.1 setup? It seems that they are great for music too. Thanks a lot
Thank you for your wonderful review. For me texture and resolution is the most important thing i m looking in a sub. Which sub do you think has the best texture and resolution? Under 1500usd . My room is about 30 square meter. Greetz from Germany
Hey Nemo .. thank you for this wonderful review. Kindly, can you make a video explaining all the specific terms used when reviewing a bass e.g. tight vs articulate ! I understand most of these terms but, I’m still lacking in some areas. Thanks again
Hey and thanks for some entertaining videos 🙂. How would you say the s1 would pair up with a set of active speakers in the same price range? (around 1000$ in my area) My old sub just died, and I'm in the market for a new one, and everyone seems to like these Arendal subs. I'm using the setup with my tv via hdmi arc, and watch mainly regular tv, but do also like a good bass "rumbling" when watching movies. I do also rarely stream Spotify via chromecast. I have a feeling that this sub might be overpowering my speakers. What do you think? 🙂 My room is about 6x8 meters in size
I love watching your videos and how you explain the subs and speakers. I don’t have a dedicated theater room, 20x30 and opens to a kitchen. I have Arendal 1961 towers and looking to purchase next a sub. Im about 50/50 with movie and music. With your knowledge and expertise what subwoofer would you should suggest to my 1961 towers and room. Thanks for your help!
it shouldn't, anytime we get away from standard designs (front firing) there is a risk it may not be a good fit of the room but there is only one way to be sure, you just have to try it, with their 60 day return period it's no problem. I think it should be okay in most rooms though. You will get the most bass putting it in the right corner but every room is a bit different.
Great review. I'm sorry, but you mentioned one of my triggers. When you were talking about the REL HT1205 and its 3 features to adjust. You called the 0-180° switch on the back phase. I hate it when manufacturers call that switch phase. It's not a phase switch. Phase is frequency dependent. It is a polarity switch. Manufacturers in audio should know this, but some still keep labeling it phase. Sorry, that's my rant as you hit my trigger with manufacturers. Cheers brotha, keep up the hard work.
I assure you REL knows the difference but if they labeled it something more technically correct like "signal invert" or "polarity" it would most likely confuse people. 180 phase while not 100% identical to negative polarity does give roughly the same effect. I know you hate subs that don't have variable phase adjustment but I really think you'd be surprised if you played with the 1205, it damn near matches up well with everything with just a few minutes of fiddling.
@@NemoPropaganda it causes confusion because of manufacturers misinforming their customers. My JL's and SVS label it Polarity because they're not going to misinform their customers. I think you mistyped the part about my subs not having variable phase control. I will say, phase does some really weird things in room and I won't purchase a sub without variable phase control. It gives you the ability to get a perfect handoff at your desired crossover frequency, if you know how to use it properly. Without it, you have to place your sub around in different spots around the room just to get it properly phase aligned at the crossover frequency. I personally feel manufacturers not including variable phase control is pure laziness, especially at their not so budget friendly MSRP, such as REL and KEF. They will never get a dime out of me, because if they want to cut corners with no including variable phase, and want to be lazy by not educating their customers properly, where else are they being lazy & cutting corners? And because of this, I can never recommend subwoofers from those companies. Variable phase control should be an industry standard, but it's not. Consumers aren't educated on the benefits of it, how it actually works, and how to use it. Such a shame really. There needs to be better practice and education from the manufacturers to the consumers instead of taking their money and running.
@@dicmccoy i didn't mistype, I think you misread :). So I would agree with you if in a real worlds scenario what you were saying turned out to be the case but REL with their polarity only option integrate better than damn near anything. I love Rythmik, that's no secret but certainly takes me more time to setup one of their subs than it does any REL. I really think if you tried one you might be genuinely surprised with how easily you can set one up and have it blended perfectly with so few settings. It's not laziness, it's intentional. REL believes a subwoofer must be easy for the end user. Not every customer is a hobbyist who wants to learn, plenty of guys just want good sound for the family when they watch a movie. They don't care about slopes & phase & crossovers. You're thinking about this from the perspective of a hobbyist/audiophile but we're the minority vs the mass market. I think what REL is doing is awesome, it makes their subs super easy to recommend because a child can set them up and make them sound great. I really think you might change your tune if you had one in your room bro, trust me I was in your boat until I started playing with them.
@@NemoPropaganda Very aptly said. I don't want to digress from the Arendal thread, but having the Rel Predator for some time, I would say that it blends easily without much headaches and effort although the phase switch is either 0 or 180. In short it's a fantastic sub and Rel knows what they are doing You are also right when you mention that a lot of people are not audiophiles or hobbyists. At the end of the day, they just want to hear good music or movie experience with the family without going too much into graphs and slopes like me. Rel did a fantastic job on the HT series but yes they should be priced a bit cheaper.
@@NemoPropaganda yeah, sorry. I did misread it. Reading is a skill. 😂 I just don't know if a can do it. I will always have this notion in the back of my mind constantly eating me away, wondering if the subs are properly in phase or not. That's why I can't wait for the Dirac Bass Control upgrade to become available for my NAD. It takes care of all the phase for you. It saves me from that notion eating away at me. When that become available, then I don't have to worry about if a sub has or doesn't have variable phase control.
Thanks so much for your honest and articulate reviews, I’ve been watching your channel to find a subwoofer that will work well with 2 tower and 2 bookshelf paradigm speakers and 4 SVS prime elevation speakers. I’m so overwhelmed with stats, been looking at SVS pros, your last review on Arendal and Monolith. If there’s 1 that has great for action and Syfy movies (primarily movies) and of course music. prefer lower frequency levels and can handle mid bass and have great texture. I listen to how you speak on point for each sub you have reviewed, that being said I definitely would appreciate your suggestions
@@jaden9037 oh bro if you have the space the FVX12 is one of my favorite subwofoers ever!!!!!!! The E15 is the more accurate but I like the slightly exaggerated low end the vented FVX12 has.
That was exactly the reason why I asked because I knew that you love that sub and I was really going off that recommendation and hoping that that was what you were gonna be suggesting awesome thanks so much✌️ i’ve watched all your videos on the subwoofers, That’s why I really was hoping that would be the one you were suggesting. I’m hoping they will have a sale for the holidays
I have a 1723 1 s waiting for me when I get back home in a month, hoping to hear your review of it before I get to set it up. Maybe will get some advice from you, this replaces an old Velodyne FSR 15 so it's got to be an upgrade from that!
oh yeah, that old velodyne might as well be dog shit compared to the 1723 1S, you should notice a dramatic improvement immediately. Setup of DSP subs really varies from room to room so I suggest talking to the guys over at Arendal for setup advice, they're really friendly and knowledgeable :).
I know they’re in different price points, but are two Rel T9/X WAY better than two 1961 1S? Your comment about world class fidelity in Rel is what makes ask. Can two T9/Xs have enough output to match the 1961?
Hey John, it's hard to be sure without measuring their SPL so I can't really answer for sure. I can guess however and my guess is that two T9X subwoofers should be able to produce higher SPL than a single 1961 1S. As far as being WAY better it depends on your gear, if your connecting the REL to a cheap amp you're not going to experience that world class fidelity, it's still going to sound incredible though. WAY better depends on what you value, if you value nuanced detail you will think the 9X is way better, if you value bass attack more then you will think the 1961 is way better. Bother are great subwoofers so I will leave you with this. If you're an audio purist and you believe less is more then go for the REL, if you like having lots of adjustments, settings, fine grain control to adjust then go for the 1961.
1205 is very good, I love it, 1961 is built to a higher standard and has a stronger presentation. In this scenario buying manufacture direct gets you an advantage but the if the 1205 is on sale or cheaper then it's still a really good option.
@@NemoPropaganda One last question :) Do you think REL HT1205 with Arendal 1961 Bookshelf speakers is a good combo? HT1205 has been very easy to integrate, no double about that. But is it overpowering for those speakers?
@@uTube00789 the 1205 is very versatile, it blends with everything. It's best with the crossover knob around 9'oclock. Beyond that it's not going to have the high fidelity midbass (like above 50hz) of a T7X or T9X so you may have a small hole in the bass region because 1961 speakers might need to blend higher up but it should sound pretty good but you may want to go with slightly larger speakers. 1961 are so small :).
Those Velodynes are approaching 20 years old now, stay away!! At that age the suspension is worn out and the adhesives used will fail soon. Furthermore while they were good for their time those old subs can't compete in todays market. Sure they can make bass but the SPL range was very mono-tone with terrible bass note distinction. It wasn't uncommon for people to think the frequency knob was broken because they mostly sound the same regardless of where you set the freq knob. In short yes this Arendal 1961 1S is a superior option.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks for the reply! The ultra series released in 2009 i think, and there are some examples built in 2016 in the european used market (using hifishark to see what’s available outside of my country) but I get your points. I’m interested in them because of the beefy hardware and Velodyne’s digital drive technology, which from what I understand is similar or identical to Rhytmik’s servo. I’m also looking at REL and Arendal options. Would prefer a pair of smaller subs instead of one bigger sub. I see you like REL. How do you find the t5/7/9 to compare against the t5/7/9i and t5/7/9x? Are there major upgrades on the newer series or are the t (non i or x) subs good bargains nowadays? REL specsheets don’t look impressive at all, but people seem to love them nonetheless. Would you go with a pair of HT/1003 or 1205, or with a pair of t7(i) or t9(i)? That is if I prioritize SQ, but still appreciate extra extension. P.s. I don’t know why I’m not subscribed, but you’ve come a long way since your s400 days in your old apartment/listening room. Didn’t you have a different name? Time to subscribe :)
@@agdp15 Sorry I didn't see the Ultra part and assumed it was the SPL II range. I don't have any experience with the Ultra I'm sorry. I havn't heard any of the Ti range except the 5i. The 5x bass is noticeably improved for sure sounding fuller, bigger, and deeper overall. As far as the 2 vs 1 I say pick what looks best i the room. I go back and fourth between dual and single sub setups often so I run both. No my name was always the same :). If you want extension go for the pair of 1205 or step up to a pair of 9x but honestly I think a pair of 7X will have enough extension for most people, it's what I use fairly often.
I don't really like the look of the M&K stuff and the price is very high for what looks like a pro-audio utilitarian piece. As far as open baffle I don't think it would be a good fit for my small room.
Painted black, black grill, similar to the Arendal. M&K's Push Pull dual woofer design is unique tho. "X12 is rewarded with “reference status” for music and movie production, and Home Theater applications." I have installed these, tried many subs, they are really good. Yes, not the cheapest options, that's one downside.
@@mag4633 oh yeah I bet it's really good, it's just over $2000 is out of most peoples budget so I try to review stuff I think more people will be interested in :)
@@mag4633 M&Ks are used by every major film company in the world also DTS, Dolby laboratories and THX use m&k and have since 1994...they are incredible subs that with there topology give you 6 DB gain over standard subs...
Big price difference between the two, for US customers the L12 has a level of performance to price that is nearly impossible to beat. My system is a little too expensive to pair well with either of those, neither one is exactly my taste. I much prefer the Rythmik FVX12.
@@AromaFrank I make these videos to help you guys decide on what you want for yourself, not for me to decide lol. I decided on a subwoofer a long time ago :). I use a pair of REL T9X usually or a single Rythmik FVX12 depending on my mood and upstairs where I watch TV an SVS 3000 Micro. The L12 and 1961 are both good, but neither is going to dethrone my Rythmik FVX12 or REL T9X pair.
You are doing a fine job with your reviews 👍 I am looking for a new sub to compliment my Klipsch RP-8000 Fronts and 504 Center. Backs atm are still some old BeoLab 8000s but I am gonna replace them eventually. My current sub seems to not have the necessary power, it's clipping with some sources. So my candidates are SVS PB-2000 Pro or the Arendal 1961 1V or maybe bite the bullet and get the 1723 1V. Since I am in Europe, the SVS is rather pricey here compared to US. It's 1.5k USD for the PB-2000 Pro. The 1723 will set me back 2k+ USD. I know you have not tested the 1961 1V but would you think I shall rather go with that than the SVS PB-2000 Pro? I like the app though on the SVS... Thx for your advice.
Hey so I have not heard either ported model but PB-2000 is comparable to 1961 1v while the 1723 1v is competing with the PB3000. Both companies make really good subs but I can't recommend one over the other here because I have not heard these specific ported models.
@@NemoPropaganda Thx for your answer. I had contact with my SVS dealer (he has many other brands too but not Arendal). They told me that 99% of their customers eventually went for the SB model and not PB. Even folks where they home installed the PB came back as they were not 100% satisfied, got the SB instead and were happy. So, it prolly comes down to me also getting the SB model. So I have to device between SB-2000 Pro and Arendal 1961 1s. What you think?
@@NemoPropaganda The SB-2000 I can get for a little more than 1.2k USD. With the Arendal it's an issue as it's already 1.2k USD but has to be shipped to Switzerland. Arendal will pay the shipment but then there is the import tax + postal fees and stuff, which will put at least 200 on top of the product price.
@@Bicki damn so $1200 & $1400, well they're both worth it, I do feel the 1961 1s is a bit of a better performer and worth the extra money especially considering the standard finish is paint but you have to draw the line somewhere. You can't lose either way, both are good subs, flip a coin, ask the wife, or pick based on looks perhaps :).
@@NemoPropaganda not sure whether to go towers or 1723 monitors or bookies considering my small place to be honest. I know they do free shipping but wonder how many free ships they'll do lol. Definitely want they're brand but not sure which will suit me best, and the 1s or 1v would be perfect. And can't believe you're the only one who's done a 1s review, seems like a quality woofer.
I review subs primarily for stereo use so I can't speak to the maximum SPL but this should easily be a competent competitor in the HT space for it's size.
I watched this again, after a while. Always great to look back and reassess. I am like you when it comes to fidelity in bass. REL is king. But i discovered I like both. I need a vented monster and a sq sub. I just like all bass, hahaha. I mean, dire straits need a sq and movies need spl. i think. Still great vid. Keep it coming m,an.
that will require size :D such a thing does exist, something like the Rythmik FVX12 or FV15HP is what you're describing, if those are too expensive consider the RSL 12S.
I hate side firing subwoofers. I don't care how good the bass is I would never buy one but I did enjoy watching the review. I would like to see you review a Rythmik 15 inch subwoofer. Can a good 15 inch subwoofer be musical or is 12 inches the cut off point for speed and accuracy. Thanks for the great reviews
Yes a 15 or a 18 or a 21 can be used for music. Especially servo controlled. The real question is room size and system integration. Ponder that and you have your answer.
yeah, anytime we get away from front firing drivers there is a chance it will not be a good fit for the room or bass can localize, etc... But for some rooms it's a great fit. Personally my OCD just doesn't like it lol. Big subs can be musical but most of them are not.
Since you have reviewed both I'll fire away here. Going duals, movie/tv usage only, would you prefer dual 1723 1S over dual 1961 1S? We Never listen at reference, room is 18'x15'x8'. 1723's warrant the $1200 difference in pricing and a worthwhile expenditure over the 1S? 10year warranty on both, 5 years on plate amp notwithstanding.
Hi Travis, this is a value question which is impossible to answer because value is very personal. To me the 1723 1s is worth the price difference for sure but others may feel the 1961 1s is the better value. If the money is not a concern then for sure go for 1723. But if its too much then 1961 is still very good.
I have not heard the 1v but it probably compares the same way most ported counterparts compare to their sealed equivalents which is more output and slightly slower transient response.
so this is a bit of a misunderstood topic, i pick sealed for the transient response as I mostly listen to music however sealed subs often times can extend lower as long as you have decent room gain where ported subwoofers generally fall off a cliff below port tuning frequency but have more output in the lower frequencies due to the port soo in many rooms a sealed sub can extend lower than a ported one but a ported one will always have more output.
@@NemoPropaganda I've read this somewhere, but didn't get it properly. Now I see... I read so many topics about sealed and ported, and getting lost still. So, there's a chance, that 1723 1s will be a better choice for a room around 30 sq.m., than 1961 1v? Somehow, I thought, that ported goes lower... Probably, because of those specs 😕 So complicated 😐 I love deep, soft and low bass even in music, not just in movies.
@@8000860 based on your taste you should for sure go for ported then. That softness yet powerful rumble you're referring to is usually ported subs, I like that also but a lot of people don't which is why they go for sealed which has much more of a clear leading edge to it's attack.
@@NemoPropaganda Yeah, I had same thoughts. Also, Klipsch RP-8000 in front begin with pretty low frequency. So, I thought, I need that extra-low bass for them, since 30+ Hz are already fine with speakers alone.
I purchased a rel 1205HT. It's being paired with kef R7s and R2c. The rel is not getting as low as I'd like and I'm experiencing chuffing. I'm considering buying one Arendal 1723 1V or two 1961 1V to replace the rel. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance, really appreciate your videos and feedback!
Sealed subs can’t chuff so I’m not sure what you might be hearing there. Experiment with placement if you can switch phase and see if that helps. The 1205 should dig as low as any good sealed 12” sub aside from the Rythmik L12 which has more extension than virtually all similar competitors due to its servo design. If none of that works you may indeed want a ported sub. My ported recommendation is the Rythmik FVX12 as it has the speed/accuracy of a sealed design and the output of a ported. It’s awesome!
@@NemoPropaganda oh I think I described it wrong. It just sounds like the it's maxing out on its excursion? Making a rattling noise.. I'm really liking how the Arendals look especially having white kef speakers. One concern with the Rythmik is the size.
@@NemoPropaganda do you think the rythmik fvx12s outperform arendal 1961s side by side? I'm looking for something articulate that can reach very low. Wouldn't mind paying for the rythmiks in white. Curious your thoughts between the two. Thank you!
@@AnonymousGameWarden Yes, the FVX12 is seriously incredible. I’ve not heard the ported Arendals but the FVX12 is the best sounding ported sub I’ve ever heard. I still have my long term review sample and use it very often so my memory of it is very recent. I’ve contemplated pulling the trigger on a white one a few times but it’s hard to justify since I already have a black one. Maybe jump on a forum and see if any local guys have an arendal or rythmik you can audition. If you’re in socal you can swing by.
so that's kind of like asking 2 sb1000 or 1 sb2000. The 1961 1S is like an SB2000 Pro but slightly better in every way except no cell phone app. For EU customers the 1961 1S seems like a no brainer vs the SB2000 Pro, for US customers they have to decide if they want the cell phone app or the slightly better sound and standard painted cabinet. Most people will tell you 2 lesser subs is better than 1 good sub but personally I would rather have 1 really awesome product vs 2 lesser products but that's just me. Either way the SB1000 Pro is very good and a pair will be awesome, likewise a single 1961 will be awesome so you will win either way :D
hmmm, side firing? it's a square. Is it the side because of the logo? Sorry. it just struck me as kind of funny. Great review as ALWAYS. edit" HOT is not flavor, it is sensation.
In the us the svs is cheap, in the eu arendal is cheaper than svs. Easy choice depending on the country. Same reason i went for the 1723 1.5 two years ago
Not anymore my bro, in the US the 1961 1S and SB2000 Pro are now the same price of $899, it makes it a tough choice. The SB3000 is still cheaper than the 1723 1s but I consider them both to be wroth their price so I'm saying I feel the 1723 1s is slightly better for it's slightly higher price. Either way you've ended up with an outstanding subwoofer so that is good :D
@@NemoPropaganda yeah i had to carry it one step at a time up a curved staircase. Never doing that again. Now it’s parked in a separate room collecting dust as i’m not attempting to move it downstairs. It’ll be the death of either me, the sub or both lol. Now eyeing a smaller 1961 1s to replace it as it’s half the weight and half the size. Easier to carry🥲. Also eyed the sb2000 pro but it’s €300 more expensive here than the 1s
The weight is 20kg. It’s a no no. I carry subs for work 3 times a week to play in small Médium places. I collect subs but not exceeded ‘more than 18kg it’s a no go. 👎🏼 Still this seems interesting ✅
@@NemoPropaganda great videos Nemo! You. Must be thinking “Why the hell he take audiophile stuff to use it as a PA systems ?” Haha 😂 I have. A few and just find a rel r218 for speaker integration playing keyboard and singing for 10 to 25 people at restaurants. I’m an audiophile too so (I just to use Qsc,Rcf,jbl, Ev,etc) but as I play at slow volume i take my focus 200xd Dynaudio or elac navis arb, or genelec 8341 musicians complain at me “people won’t pay”!! but people always comment how good it sounds. So I’m crazy at sound the sound is for me
Ahhh nooooo!! 😢 I also wanted to see a 1961 1V review. I think this is probably one of their most popular subs. They cancel the whole 1961 line but kept the subs probably because they sell so much. The 1723s are probably too big for most people. Damn. You are easily the best reviewer of speakers, especially subs. It's a shame we won't get to see your review the sub that I wanted. 😒 Keep up the good work though man your channel is tops.
"being more accurate isn't better than being more dynamic"... Dude, it *is*. A speaker / subwoofer is not an instrument. It's not supposed to "add its own character", "make it sound more musical" or whatever. Its sole task is to accurately reproduce the input signal - *but amplified*. When - and only *when* - it can do *that*, the user might choose to *add* or *subtract* something to/from the signal. So sure, add a PEQ or "bass boost" knob or whatever works to achieve that. But when everything is disabled and taken out of the equation, the task of any speaker is to reproduce the input signal without adding or subtracting anything.
Do you also believe the only purpose of food is to nourish the body? The only purpose for sex is to reproduce? The only purpose of driving is to get from point A to point B? You are welcome to have an opinion on what you value as an audio enthusiast but please don't force your boring perspective down my throat. I'm simply not interested.
This is not hard 🤪 One of midbass units in nearfield, one of the atackbeast on each wall (not corner). Then you have all the midbass you need combined with all the atack you could want. I'm kind of like Winnie the Pooh (not sure if name is spelled correct), I say: yes please I'll have both deep and midbass, thank you 🤪🤪🤪
that's common in home theater, 2 smaller subs flanking the couch for tactile midbass while 2 monster subwoofers are on the front wall for powerful LFE rumble. The reality is you absolutely can have the sound any way you want so long as you're willing to spend the cash and accommodate the gear in your room :D
I've seen a lot of your reviews, but I started subscribing just now, I don't know why, I liked the video format from the beginning I started to watch, but better later than never, right? I have a lot to say, much more than for any other reviewer on RUclips. First of all, while you are new to this whole HiFi game, the hardest thing is to choose what is what... Till you know what you like and what you want, you try to visit as many local HiFi stores as you can, and listen to as many systems as possible, we all was at that stage sometime when everything is new and seems more complicated than you could imagine. When find some gear which you like and don't like, next step start to search who likes the same things as you, otherwise it's practically impossible to find what you're looking for, because one says it's good, the other says it's bad and you get this better... It's harder than it looks at first glance. About snake oil things better not even to start, everything just gets even more complicated. I liked your channel from the beginning, when after all the auditions I chose my first speakers Focal Aria 906, let's be clear, there are not many reviewers who choose Focal instead of something else, but you like Focal as much as I do, even at that price of 2000 USD in the USA, which is absurd... And you still think it's awesome, even for that price. Here in Europe we can buy them for less than 1000 euros, I paid for mine brand new 750 euros together with Aria stands (bundle), I'm trying to imagine how much more you would love them if they cost that much in the US 😂 And yes, the Focal Aria speakers are great, but they lack bass, that's clear from looking at the specs, even without auditioning. I was debating whether to buy a subwoofer or a floorstanding Aria, maybe I would perfectly happy with big Aria's bass without a subwoofer, but I know myself, just the thought and knowing that there is something else what I can't hear (below 35 Hz) would not give me a peace and would probably still thinking about a subwoofer 😄So I decided that a subwoofer is probably a smarter and more practical solution, especially for listening in a medium-sized room (30 square meters in my case), cause we know that to make a speaker which can reproduce a large amount of quality bass with good extension is very expensive, you will pay a lot of money for it and if you probably still will think about a subwoofer, what's the point then? Unless the room is very large, then large towers makes sense. The usual floorstanding speakers still won't cover the whole room, maybe the bass will be enough from the listening position, but if you like to listen while cooking, as I do, the bass still fades away as you go further from the speakers. Next point you mentioned somewhere - a flexibility that allows you place the speakers where and how you want, without focusing on bass is it will get better or worse if I place them like this or this. Bonus point if you want to upgrade your speakers later, you don't need to worry about how much bass they reproduce, you can let for yourself just focus on something whose has mids and high frequencies you liked the most and forget the bass, win win I think. After I decided to buy a subwoofer instead of large floorstanding speakers, I spent months looking for information, reading forums, and I realized that I was just wasting my time, everything I was looking for is here - on this channel, and there no other reviewer with so many different subwoofers in one place we're all looking for, rather than different opinions gathered from different places. From what I see in the world of audiophiles and Stereo HiFi, there are still more people who think that subs is an attribute of cinemas and there is no place for a subwoofer in a HiFi system at all and if you consider it, you do something wrong in your life... I really like your analogies and approach, I've thought about it many times, that guy not only likes similar audio equipment as I do, but even thinks similarly, what else do you want when you're looking for something you can trust. I also rarely go to the cinema, I think the sound is just too loud and trying to replicate the scene in real life it would not be as loud as in the cinema, all those bangs, shots, effects with such a volume just hurt my ears, I feel uncomfortable there, I watch movies at home more often at moderate listening levels. I've already watched more than half of your subwoofer reviews (I skip just those which is not available in Europe - Rythmik, RSL, Aperion because there's no point if you can't buy it) maybe I'll ask for your advice later, if I'll struggle to choose from few options, whatever it is, I hope this channel will live as long as possible. BTW I think the Velodyne DB12 review has some benefits, it just goes to show that if the product can't compete with competition, you don't care if they sent it for free, they let you keep it or not, you say what you really think and it adds even more confidence. I understand English almost perfectly, but when I need to write something, I need a bit help from Google translate, I hope this text is possible to understand🙈
thank you for the kind words, yes it was easy to understand no problem. So for Aria 906 as long as the room is not too big an easy choice is pair of REL T5X or T7X. If your system is more focused on theater then instead maybe go for dual 1205 MKII or 1003 MKII. Out of all the subs I've ever tried with Aria 906 REL had the best synergy.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks for you reply, REL is on the Top in my list at the moment, a few your reviews left to watch, I think to buy one at the moment and second later, first I thought T9/X would be perfect, but maybe it's overkill have two of them (I'am a renter so room size can change in the future), I'll use them for music, and I'am a SQ (Mercedes) guy, I want easy integration and it seems like there is no subwoofer, so I glad to hear that REL has good synergy with Focal. I just remember comment of James Larson from Audioholics about High Level Input and Rel's recommendation use this connection as primary, he is not very positive about this, I don't have an opinion about this, cause I have no experience with it, but I copy here what he wrote in the comment section. This is from video called "Best Powered Subwoofers Under $1,500 for 2020" I'am really interested what are you think about it 🙂 James Larson 1 year ago Hello Bryan, The way that Rel advises their subs to be integrated is not all that good. The reason is that most speakers use ports to fill out the low end of the speaker response. The thing about ports is that their output is a cycle out of phase with the driver output. So now you have some phase rotation and group at the low end of a speaker. That is less of a problem when you use modern bass management which can actually end up filtering out port output in favor of the sub. With Rel, you are trying to add on a subwoofer to the full response of the system, so now you have a driver adding output on top of the 360 degrees of phase rotation of the port output. Another reason why Rel's ideas about sub integration is that for most speakers, the bulk of nonlinear distortion occurs at the lower end of their response, not surprising since deep bass pushes the drivers real hard. The nice thing about modern bass management is that it gives the speaker drivers a break at the low end thereby reducing distortion. But the way Rel does things avoids these advantages. The low end also takes the most amplification, and using a high-pass filter on the speakers conserves amplification for your main speakers. Basically, it gives your system more headroom. But using the speaker level connection to the sub like how Rel advises also misses this advantage. The way that Rel advises the sub to be connected to the system is archaic and illogical. I think it's more of a gimmick to appeal to goofy audiophiles that are hung up on analog circuits.
@@nealcaffrey1251 I think everyone has a right to their own opinion. Personally I don't care about rules, measurements, or numbers. I care about what the product sounds like in a real world environment and simply put the REL T/X range stands among the finest sounding subwoofers I've ever heard. Users may choose to connect them via high-level, LFE, or line level as the sub has all 3 options. Personally I don't use LFE or highpass features as I'm a stereo purist and believe less is more. In my system the T/X range sounded outstanding using high level or line input. The biggest benifit to high level in my opinioni is it bypasses the suboutput that often times is poorly designed especially on more affordable or older gear and gives you a cleaner signal. Each user is welcome to experiment on their own to see which option they prefer for their system.
@@NemoPropaganda im just researching for a small 15m2 living room but i guess i dont need an entire arendal 1961 for such a small room. maybe just 3.1 instead of 5.1
@@fookoff8660 the sb1000 pro is $600 while the 1961 1S is $900, that's a 50% increase in price so while $300 may not seem like much it is when its half the price of the first sub. But differences are relative, one mans night & day difference is another mans subtle change. We all experience sound a little differently which makes things even more complicated. If you have the budget for 1961 go for it, if it's a bit out of reach get the sb instead, it's still very good.
Finally someone checks out the sub that I'm enjoying a lot. Great to see it stacks up to the competition.
oh yeah, it's a strong competitor :)
I'm thinking about getting one. A 1s ✌️
Amazing review. I dig the semi-improvised one-take presentation.
thank you!
Yeah..everybody has a different take on bass. I just wanted the very lower end filled out with music. In a natural way. Very subtle. My speakers reach pretty deep so I did not need a lot. I am the guy who does not want subwoofers that call attention to themselves. This week I receive my two REL T/5Xs (after you told me about the sale!). I blended them in over the weekend in my stereo set-up using high-output lines, crossover settings and volume. I have them blending in super subtle and they are GREAT! Natural. Thanks for reviewing them a while back..…The LFE input, with the separate volume control makes them a winner with my surround-sound TV viewing as well! Can you say WIN- WIN! 😁👍🏼
That's awesome, I love that feeling of buying something and it just works the way you expected it to or better, it's so satisfying :D
I have a dual multi array of 10 inch Rel-6 total. It's all tuned correctly and with a lot of care. What I am getting at, is when I go to a concert, there is no lack of bass. None of the groups I listen to are light on bass-in concert. On recordings it is a different story. So yes I like bass, I like it up to a low mid (because I use bookshelf speakers ) and down all the way to 20 Hz. Better to have too much and dial it down than to have too little and do nothing. Thanks for the review.
ooooh nice! You have stacks of the S510?
I just got the 1v and I am thoroughly impressed. The fit and finish is top notch and the sound is tremendous. It took me about 2 hours but I finally got it to blend with my rythmik e15hp2. It is said that you shouldn't mix ported and sealed but I think I found my end-game sub combo. 💣💥💯
Nice dude! Yeah I would have totally recommended against that but at the end of the day if it's working well in your room then you are winning!!! :)
Hi, what was your E15 lacking?
Thank you very much for this Review! Sounds like im going to safe for the 1961 1S which seems to fit my needs :)
Greetings from Germany - keep on with your good work! :)
Thank's Matze! Enjoy the sub :)
I think something else that might be worth mentioning is that as a consumer what kind of gear do you have compared to the reviewer that you are watching. For example I run large Tower speakers in both my houses and they integrate seamlessly with dual SVS SB 3000. I wouldn't trade them for any other subwoofer in the world but if I ran bookshelves I definitely would go a different route. Seems like a lot of people are looking for the one-size-fits-all solution and I appreciate that you do mention that there are a lot of variables
Integration methods and preferences can also drastically change the outcome of how products work together. For example someone else may take my exact setup crossover the speakers and Subs at 80 Hz and turn the subwoofer gain way up. This may result in a unpleasant experience making that person think this is a bad match. Personally I like to run my Tower speakers full range and lightly blend in my subwoofers at the natural roll off point of my speakers to get full range. That's what sounds best to me but it's just my preference. I barely use my subwoofers and definitely don't bring them anywhere near their fullest potential and I'm sure some people would think that's a waste but for how I like to use my subwoofers they work perfectly for me. Holyshit I'm just rambling on and on. I don't blame you if you gave up on reading this about halfway through LOL I think I drank too much pre-workout this morning
bahahaha I didn't give up lol, the way you set it up is actually the way I do it also, I like to keep the bass in the speakers and add the sub where it's needed, forcing the sub to play higher frequencies is usually not the best idea.
@@NemoPropaganda That's great news cuz I know you have a lot more experience with a lot more subs than me. I'm excited to get my back ordered Anthem MRX 1140. Curious to see how good ARC Genesis room correction works with 2 independent sub outs to separately calibrate left and right. The web interface looks pretty complex but I'm excited to spend time with it and learn.
One of the most genuine and honest reviewer on RUclips. Keep it up!
I appreciate that!
Great timing, I have some 1961 monitors enroute and am debating between a pair of these 1S or the SVS SB-2000 pro’s for our family room. Currently have a PB-3000 pro but it’s just too much and doesn’t pair well with our current KEF LS50. The biggest pro for me is the SVS app is great for a multi-use system for on the fly adjustments.
I'd love to hear your impressions of the 1961 monitors...not much out there on them or the bookshelfs. Will this be for music?
Same thing with my pb2000 pro.
Tone distinction and texture needs to be top of my list next time.
keep in mind that PB3000 will murder the 1961 1S in the lower frequencies where you experience that theater rumble. I would wait and see how your current sub pairs with your new speakers as they are much larger than your current Meta.
@@NemoPropaganda That's what the 1961 Sub 1V is for :)
I'm using a full 1961 system at the moment and my two Sub 1S are stellar and super smooth.
Fantastic video for anyone shopping around for a sub, even if there not interested in this particular model. Thank you!
Hey!! Bro. I have BINGED your content this holiday. What an awesome channel. I can sit here and listen to you talk speakers for hours. Please review the 1961 1V! I am really looking at snagging it and the numbers are really close frequency wise to 1723. Wanna see how it compares!
hey what's up man, thank you for the kind words. I'm fairly picky with vented subs since I focus on subwoofers for 2ch music and most vented subs are not ideal for primarily music only systems. As far as size goes the 1961 1V is actually a good amount larger than the 1723 1S so I don't think it's a size issue, for reference the 1961 1V is 22lbs heavier! I think most mixed systems or music first customers would be happier with the sealed 1723 1S over the vented 1961 1V.
Awesome man!!! Thanks for speedy response. Keep up the. Good work!! Are you gonna review 1723 Monitor S? I'm wrestling with those and S400 mkii. Movie first listener. I know you love Bucharest but hoping you can give me your opinion.
@@Jusstisse I have already reviewed the 1723 bookshelf S so I don't think I will also review the monitor. I certainly love Buchardt and I feel their speakers would be excellent for theater for anyone with a music first theater secondary system. However if you're theater first and music secondary I think the Arendal 1723 offerrings are better suited for that. They are designed to handle the dynamic swings of theater much better. Hope that helps.
Extension, tone distinction, and texture under 75db are my flavors. That’s why I have an ASW08 and an ASW10 on the way. I should get it this week.
ASW10 that's a $ 299, 10" sub from half a decade ago, with barely any extension...
@@xavdeman do you feel better now?
XDM yes the ASW610 is an old sub, but it actually has plenty of extension, what it lacks is output which Matt doesn't need since as he mentioned under 75dB is where he listens...
I'm going to steal that response lol.
@@NemoPropaganda to add some context, I bought a used ASW08 last year for about $200. The sound quality was perfect, as I expected, but i didn’t expect the extension, for what it is. I found a gently used ASW10 for $220. I want to see if extends lower without losing sound quality. It is going in a secondary room that will do 2.1 for music and TV.. would I buy a new one for $800? No! I’d get a REL or L12. But for the price (yes, I broke the rule and cheaped out), the ASW10 is perfect for my needs and is freeing up money to go get my wife her own pistol this weekend.
I am on a super budget and in EU, which means SVS SB1000 comes at 820 USD. It competes directly with the Arendal. I went with REL HT1003 for around 400 USD on a demo deal, but my choices were either Arendal or XTZ sound. XTZ sound is starting to generate a lot of buzz right now, would be awesome if you get one of them to review. CHeers.
Xtz 12.17 was a bit thick for me personally but then I have a small room. Others do swear by them though so maybe that's just my taste.
that's an awesome price for a 1003 :)
@@slyfoxx8540 Yeah, seems more theater focused, large ported subs have a narrow operating range, not really ideal for music.
Hey, Great review. Really like the way you mentioned about the sound quality and the comparisons. Also, I find the video quality lot better.. Using your new mobile for recording ?
Thank's man, yeah I'm using the 13 mini now but it makes me look red in the video so I have to keep changing the color of the video now, super annoying but I think I can fix it with moving around my lights, we'll see in the next video lol
Thank you for your review. Loved it.
Just got hold of the 1S … I’m loving it. In a medium small room I find it easier to integrate than the Rythmik F12. Maybe it’s because the 1S does not dig as deep as the F12. But the 1S is great for music. Superb for the price.
Who knows, could be equipment matching or even the room. Either way I'm happy you're loving the 1961 1S, it's a great sub!
both are sealed so possibly just a faster cone movement capability on the 1s, due to the driver or whatever combination of reasons
“It’s an amazing time”.
I love this guy!
best comment of 2021, thank you!
As always a great video. I kind of wish you had gotten in the 1723 2S. I don’t know why exactly, but I’m just always drawn to duel opposing subwoofer designs.
I had the option to ask for that as a review sample and personally I REALLY wanted to try that one but at $2300 I felt that most people wouldn't find the review very helpful as it's too much out of their budget. I think most of my audience is looking to spend less which is why I opted for the 1961 1S, I do have the 1723 1S here though and that review will come soon.
@@NemoPropaganda your probably spot on about that. It’s not within my budget rn either, just interested.
@@NemoPropaganda would be awesome to hear You opinion on 1961 1v and 1723 1s (or even together)
@@8000860 sorry bro I have not heard the 1V, since Arendal make both I would ask them their opinion.
Very good review, i got the 1961 1s and i really agree with you. I listen to alot of music but movies is the thing for me. And i can always set it pre set for music. I love it!!
Nice, glad to know my experience is similar with people who also own the product :)
@@NemoPropaganda well hahaha i wawtched this rev many times. This even convinced me to order another one:) Im getting it on monday. That will be very fun to see if 2 subs really gonna make a different. I have a open plan, which sux. But ...
You should really try out XTZ 12,17 edge. Somewhat different and really good for the money. Check em out.
@@svensvensson627 sow how did the 2nd addition go. Still have it?
@Comi playnow hi, yes still moving air. Works great. Fast and accurate. Love em. But I would like to try the vented one. But I think i got more then enough bass
About to hit the button on this one.. I just have one question with the hook up.
TO have the music play like via Bluetooth do you have to plug the right and left in the sub.. And then plug into the the back of the receiver..
you only need to connect the sub to your AVR or preamp and your AVR or Preamps bluetooth capability is what you would connect to.
@@NemoPropaganda thanks.. Its just when music is playing I do not hear the subwoofer.. I here it when movies play.. And I put some heavy bass music on... 😂😂
@@AllAccessConstruction sounds like you might be out of phase.
Thanks, been super curious about this one
glad i could help :)
This is a really good review....love straight to the point and honest reviews...👍🏽
Thank's Wezz! I appreciate that.
Would you choose the Arendal over the svs sb3000. I remember you saying that the attack of the sb3000 was really good.
I know this 1961 more directly competes with the SB2000 pro, but it specs pretty close to the SB3000.
it's been way too long since I've heard the sb3000 to comment on that and it's as you've said this more competes with the SB2000 Pro.
So I decided to give both the Arendal 1961 S and the Svs SB 3000 a trial.
It would be interesting to compare them both sides by side. I wish I could afford a JL E110 but they are way out of my budget, your review definitely got me thinking about more bass.
I would've tried the Arendal 1961 monitors had I not built CSS Criton 1tdx.
And I gotta say they are really crisp well articulated speakers.
@@anthonymiriello5029 oh nice! let us know what you decide!!
Hi Nemo. Great review. How would the 1961 1S fare against the Rel Ht/1205? Room is 5 x 6.5 meters with use divided more or less equally btw TV, movies and music? Arendal will be raising their prices by up to 15% on Nov. 1st. My choices are limited due to shipping costs and have narrowed them down to Arendal, Emotiva, and Rel.
The Arendal is built to a higher standard, you get a better cabinet and a beefier driver. At the limit and during strong bass like in movies the $200 more expensive 1961 will show it's dominance over the HT1205. For music the REL HT1205 will blend a little better and have a more natural response. It's important to remember the 1961 is $200 more money so when you look at it like that it's easy to see why it's built better in just about every way. I absolutely love the REL HT1205 but more expensive subwoofers generally will be built better and capable of more output and in the case of the 1961 we have some very good sound quality too.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks Nemo. I appreciate your advice and will act on it. I was really on the fence there for a while, especially since in room listening, or the return hassle, aren't options for me.
I'll contact Arendal and see if they recommend dual 1961 1s or a single 1723 1s.
All the best. Cheers.
@@khalidyousif7683 you got it brother, if you have the budget for the 1723 the REL Predator is also on sale for the next 4 days making it the same price :D now that's a tough decision!
@@NemoPropaganda Funny you mention that, I was just eyeing it this afternoon. I even started thinking about why not go for the Predator now, and next year maybe get two 7x's for the front, move the predator to the back and get that Rel 3D sound for the best of both worlds. ha ha, decisions indeed. But, you know what? This idea is now starting to grow on me... Guess I'll go back and sit on the fence for a day or two and ponder on this.... The Rel Predator has a lot going for it from reviews, and on sale would be a steal (shipping costs included) plus it's conventional forward facing, so provides more options for placement (i.e doesn't have to be 10 cms from the wall like the side firing drivers on the Arendal) since my room is like a lounge/entertainment/living laid back setting.
Great video. Glad to see the Arendal range getting some coverage. Would this be sufficient for a music only system in a 5m x 7m room. I currently have an SVS Micro on trial that works, but I am looking to see if this will be better for music.
I think it's important to remember the size difference is considerable and SVS own larger subs (even the 1000) can outperform the small Micro. Yes the 1961 is far more capable in all respects than the 3000 Micro but begs the questions how much bass do you want? I'm guessing you bought the micro for the small size, what makes you consider a larger sub now?
@@NemoPropaganda it was to pass the wife test, which it did. I have since tried something slightly larger, Rel 9x, but still feel the Micro can hold its own. The wife didn’t recoil at the size of the Rel, so reckon I could get away with the Arendal.
@@NMiley20 fair enough :) the larger 1961 should have a much forceful presentation if that's what you're looking for. I didn't compare it to the Micro due to the size difference but the 1961 will extend lower, play louder, etc... etc...
@@NemoPropaganda thanks, love the channel too. Your comparisons to food / cars are spot on. For example, I find the REL integrates much better with my mains, which most would prefer, but I miss the brute power of the SVS. I like my food spicy.
@@NMiley20 try moving the REL around little by little, maybe in inch back, turn up the gain 1-2 click, turn down the crossover 1-2 clicks. If you have a T7 or larger you should be able to get some pretty good slam out of it.
Really great review. My next sub is going to be a arendal sub then. Can u do more reviews of the arendal subs then?. Type like the 1961 1v, 1723 2s and 2v then.
All the other ones are too big and heavy for me bro, I've injured my back before on heavy subwoofers, it's just not worth it for me.
@@NemoPropaganda ahh. Ok. I have owned 3 subs that weighs more than 110 pounds then. Velodyne hgs 18, svs sb 16 u and xtz cinema 3×12 sub. So my next sub is going to be either the 1723 1s or the 1723 2s then.😊😉👍
@@ulflarsson9693 ahahaha you are crazy my man!! I think you need a pair of Rythmik F18 then :)
Hey I noticed the link goes to a SVS pro subwoofer and not the Arendal. Was this intentional or an accident?
accident :D, thank you for mentioning that, i fixed it.
@@NemoPropaganda No problem! us Pyramid subwoofer car home boxes in home theater homies need to stick together.
@@mysterypc9896 bahahaha, well I did review the JBL 550p, that badboy goes on sale for as low as $197!! I don't think you can do better for the money if you need something super budget. The JBL is a sealed 10" with 300w RMS!! Rather capable for the money and still musical.
Great review man!!
hi Man, thank U for another great review. So as U mentioned tythmik is delivering the exact portion of dynamics and seems most acourate. If U will have to choose brand available at eu to get similar nature to rythmik what U would choose? I found svs are too colorued and cannot used them :/ so definafelly must go for something from. other shelf. Thank U
Hi A! REL is an outstanding option with a sound quality first focused design and you should be able to demo them at a local dealer. If you're looking for more output for your dollar the Arendal 1723 1S is a great option too and strikes a good balance of sound quality while still offering tremendous output. This channel also has a free discord if you want to get other peoples opinion, link is in all the newer videos.
Would you get dual 1961 1S vs a single 1723 1S?
Depends on room size, for larger room a pair of 1961 should outperform most single subwoofers. But if i didn't need the output the single 1723 has a wonderful sound. Headsup Arendal recommends stacking the subwoofers when using duals :).
@@NemoPropaganda the room is 4,5 x 5,1m, so 23kvm. Thats 247 sqf.
@@ekjellgren you have to account for the ceiling height also. For that room either option will be awesome. I would maybe ask Arendal their opinion.
4 × 1961 1s then. Wow. 😊🤯
@@ulflarsson9693 2 stacks of 3 high should be sufficient lol 😀
So I've narrowed it down to this Arendal 1961 1S sub or the REL HT/1205 for $100 less. I'm 60/40 music/HT and my fronts are KLH model 5s. so I can cross these over low, as those have good extension anyway. Is there anything to push me in one direction or the other?
The 1961 gives you better build quality from top to bottom and more features a la the fine grain DSP controls with it's dominant characteristic being it's strong attack while the HT-1205 is incredibly easy to setup and it's dominant characteristic is being able to get out of the way and integrate with damn near any speaker under the sun. Ultimately both are very good. Is there one perhaps that you like the look of more?
@@NemoPropagandaI sorta like the tall skinny look of the 1961, but since its going in the left corner of the room, it looks like the driver will end up being pointed right at the left KLH speaker. Probably doesn't make a difference, but I think the intention was that it was supposed to point to the corner, but the right corner of the room is a no go. I was going to cheap out and go Rythmik L12 but I might figured more watts would help when I occasionally do use it for HT.
@@jonuiuc oh bro you're in the USA? Get the Rythmik L12 and don't look back. It was my 2020 product of the year for good reason :). Unless your room is really big you'll be just fine.
@@NemoPropaganda Nice! Thanks you saved me some money, I thought the other two would be the minimum I'd need so they go sufficiently below the KLHs (those things have big 10" woofers, so I don't need sub-midbass I just need that extra low end below 40hz, but with speed to blend with the sealed KLHs), but I'm happy enough to save $200 if the Rythmik is comparable to the other two.
@@jonuiuc all 3 companies have an in home trial but the L12 is an absolute steal for US customers, it’s presentation is thick, warm, and full.
Awesome, someone that also don't like spicy food I almost thought I was alone with that since everyone I know likes spicy and hot food. And I agree too much black pepper will make the food spicy, lol :D
Great review btw!
Nice job bro! 😎👍
Thanks for good review, what sub you think is best for fast music like techno? I am thinking about rel ht 1205 ,arendan 1961 s1 and xtz 12.17 edge
it depends how loud you listen. I listen to a lot of techno also (love alan walker) but I've noticed a lot of people listen to this genre extremely loud. And room size matters too.
I Like loud and clean 🙂 and my room is big 8meters×7meters
@@audriuszem3967 Arendal 1723 1S should get the job done. If that's out of the budget you can get one of the smaller ones you listed but be prepared to add a second one as finances allow. I have not heard XTZ so I can't comment on that.
@@NemoPropaganda thanks for advice,but wouldn't be better if i buy 2 ht1205 instead of one arendal 1723
@@audriuszem3967 i usually prefer to have 1 of a better item than 2 lesser items. The 1205 V1 is great but the 1723 1S is built to a much higher standard.
Another great review, the sub looks impressive. I know ported is what you want for home cinema but the 1961 1v and the 1723 2s are roughly the same size. So forget price, which is the better sub for HT???
I have not heard either one but I think I would go for 1723 2S because with my experience with 1961 1S and 1723 1S the 1723 was more refined sounding and I'm guessing that will transfer to the 2S model also!
Please advise Nemo. I have a room 5x3.4x2.6m. I watch a video and listen to music so that the canvas and the couch are on the long walls. I watch mostly television, concerts and sports broadcasts and natural history and educational programs and less movies. I have an Atmos 5.2.4 Bowers Wilkins sound system, 705S2 in the front. I want to buy two subwoofers!
I am deciding between 2x BW DB4S, 2x HT1205MK2 and 2x T9x. Which would be best for me?
The second question, when would you flirt regardless of the price?
Does it make sense to go even higher, like the S812?
B&W subwoofers sound great but their marketing is very misleading. They quote peak power and NOT rms, the DB4S appears to only have 195w RMS which is a bit underpowered for the money and I will not recommend them until they start being more honest with their specs. As far as REL T9X vs 1205 MK2 it's simple. I love both, get the T9X if your highest priority is bass detail, tone, & texture. Get the 1205 MK2 if your higher priority is extension & output. Based on what you're saying I think T9X is the logical choice. I have not heard the S812 so I cannot comment on that.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you for your response. BW DB4S is equipped with a Hypex NC502MP amplifier in a bridge connection. I have this confirmed.
So if the performance of the amplifier in the BW DB4S was fine, does it sound better than the REL?
As for the T9x, I'm still concerned about the passive radiator, in my opinion it slows down the bass reproduction, and I don't know to what extent there may be an acoustic short circuit at some frequencies.
@@IvanF-m8w Sorry I'm not sure I understand what your concerns are with the T9X but B&W make a nice sounding sub and it seems like you prefer to stick to the same brand so just buy that.
@@NemoPropaganda Maybe I didn't write it clearly. I am concerned whether a subwoofer (in general) with a passive radiator is not slower than a subwoofer with a closed enclosure. For example T9x vs HT1205MKII. I don't really favor any brand. I choose from what is available in Europe...
@@IvanF-m8w oh okay, yeah most PR subs sound more like vented subs, REL is not like that though. I consider their PR sub to be a sealed sub. Hope that helps. 1205 MK2 will extend lower and play louder than a T9X but the T9X has better tone & texture. Both subs have excellent transient response.
I am using a audioengine a2+ with rca to eversolo dmp-a6 and a toslink to pc. Since AE a2+ lacks bass. I am considering this subwoofer but dmp-a6 only has a pair of rca output. So i was wondering if i can use 1s subwoofer input to power my AE a2+ and have the 1s subwoofer connected to my dmp-a6 instead. So i would not need an additional amplifier?
I was considering cambridge audio axa35 but if 1s subwoofer can power my AE a2+ i can save on the cost of having additional amplifier also since im only using AE a2+ i dont think a amplifier is needed. Any advise?
I'm not sure, try asking Arendal.
Great talk as always nemo bro. Very rarely I listen to music. But still like to watch your videos 😂
I appreciate it!!
If i want a subwoofer in Europe to play tight/quick and quality bass what should i choose? Got Audiovector qr5. You think qr sub or rel will be a good choice for me? :)
I don't know anything about Audio Vector I'm sorry. What options are you considering?
i have 4 subs in even smaller room and its not about bass volume level its about texture or thickness and even equal sound spread around the room with no position differences - no matter where u sit bass perception is the same..! so more /subs/ is better to achieve that goal
I'm guessing that's for HT though and you have it all DSP'd so your timing is all good?
@@NemoPropaganda my receiver have 2 independent sub outs so audyssey splits them on 2 channels then it goes mini DSP 2/4 hd for further 4 sub precise calibration
@@MrYamaha413 that's pretty cool!
Hello, how does this compare to the RSL Speedwoofer? I was thinking about getting the 1961 Bookies and the Speedwoofer and saving some $$. Any good? Thanks!
Hi Gale, 1961 1S is more refined than the RSL speedwoofer 10s. If you can afford the Arendal it is the better sub. But the speedwoofer is also very good. If you're in the USA and looking to save some cash I think the Rythmik L12 is a great option, it's a little more than the RSL but a little cheaper than the 1961.
@@NemoPropaganda thank you sir! I am watching your SVS micro sub video right now. Great, informative reviews.
@@NemoPropaganda Hello, a little context. I am only concerned with 2.1 channel music. Whatever it does for HT, is cool with me.
So, the SVS micro or the Arendal smaller sub. Paired with the 1961 bookies. Would those be pretty equal for music? I listen to blues, classic rock, grunge and classic metal mostly. Not usually super loud, but crank it up from time to time. Ha. I like the size of the SVS micro. Just wonder if it’ll be as good of a match with the Arendal bookshelfs. Could see going up to the bigger Arendal bookshelfs at some point. Thanks for any thoughts on this. I really enjoy your videos.
Also, basic medium room.
@@galevenosdel21 Mircro is really good for how small it is but the much larger 1961 1S will have a larger sense of scale. If you need a small sub go for the Micro for sure. But if you can fit something larger I'd go for the 1961 1S.
Will I be able to feel this sub in my chest while watching war movies? Or do I need the 1v?
A lot of that depends on your room but generally vented subs have stronger rumbly bass while sealed subs have stronger attack/tactile bass. Gunfire is tactile bass so I think you will be very happy with the 1961 assuming your room isn't gigantic.
More than 1 × 1961 1s is even better than. I saw on fb that one has 4 × 1723 2s subs and another have 8 × 1723 1 (legacy) subs then. Talking of bass pressure then.😊🤯👍💪
@@ulflarsson9693 oh man that's a lot of bass, too much for my room lol.
What do you think compared to Sb1000pro?
price difference is too big to compare. SB1000 Pro is awesome, this is 50% more expensive and it is of course better in every way.
Much needed review...thanks! How would you compare 1961 1S with 1V?
Hi bro, i have not heard the 1v but being vented you can expect it to play louder and have a thicker bottom end at the expensve of some transient response.
Hello, and thank you for your reviews!
I have decided to upgrade my B&W DM 683 stereo system with a subwoofer. Through research and by watching your videos I have narrowed it down to:
Arendal 1961 1s - 951 USD
SVS SB-1000 Pro - 739 USD
SVS SB-2000 Pro - 1162 USD
XTZ 12.17 Edge - 951 USD
My main focus is music. I like the bass to be like a small earthquake. I want to physical feel the lower bass lines in songs like "Jeezy - Put on", and the first drop in "Northlane - Crash & Burn" (40sec ->).
The room (living room and kitchen) is like a mirrored L-shape, with the sofa- /TV section in one end. There is not enough space for a subwoofer at front wall together with the TV and loudspeakers. It has to be placed on the left wall at the front end of the corner sofa. I made a picture that shows the floor plan with furniture etc. but I am unable to post a comment with a link to it. I gave up after multiple attempts to manipulate the link with spaces. If you would like to see it, I can send it through another message instance.
As a Norwegian I probably should go for the Arendal :). This might be a good choice either way, as it beats the SVS SB-2000 Pro in many of my preferences in the comparison you make. But does the layout of my living room and placement of the subwoofer dictate one of these subwoofers over the others? Is the cheaper SVS SB-1000 Pro just as good for my use, or will the extra 200 USD for the SB-2000 Pro be worth it? The XTZ seems to be more driven towards movies and home theater, but I have heard it's a brilliant subwoofer for the price.
Which one would you pick, Nemo?
Thanks in advance
based on what you're describing I think you'd prefer something like the Arendal 1961 1V or 1723 1S. SVS is great too but pricing in your region makes Arendal the easy choice. Only ported subs or larger sealed subs can play those frequencies with authority. There are some smaller subs that can do it too but they are expensive.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you for your reply! Yeah, I guess a ported sub in that price range is the better choice for me. I'll take a closer look at the Arendal 1961 1V. It seems to be perfect for my needs :)
Hi! Nice review as always! I am learning a lot about subs. Any chance to review some arendal speakers for 2 Channel or 2.1 setup? It seems that they are great for music too. Thanks a lot
maybe in the future :)
Thank you for your wonderful review.
For me texture and resolution is the most important thing i m looking in a sub.
Which sub do you think has the best texture and resolution? Under 1500usd . My room is about 30 square meter.
Greetz from Germany
Hey Whitecloud, best texture & resolution? REL T9X for sure!
@@NemoPropaganda thanks ☺️
Hey Nemo .. thank you for this wonderful review. Kindly, can you make a video explaining all the specific terms used when reviewing a bass e.g. tight vs articulate ! I understand most of these terms but, I’m still lacking in some areas. Thanks again
maybe, i'll think about it :)
Hey and thanks for some entertaining videos 🙂. How would you say the s1 would pair up with a set of active speakers in the same price range? (around 1000$ in my area)
My old sub just died, and I'm in the market for a new one, and everyone seems to like these Arendal subs.
I'm using the setup with my tv via hdmi arc, and watch mainly regular tv, but do also like a good bass "rumbling" when watching movies. I do also rarely stream Spotify via chromecast.
I have a feeling that this sub might be overpowering my speakers. What do you think? 🙂
My room is about 6x8 meters in size
its hard to say, it should pair up fairly well with most speakers though.
@@NemoPropaganda ok. Thanks for taking your time 🙂
I love watching your videos and how you explain the subs and speakers. I don’t have a dedicated theater room, 20x30 and opens to a kitchen. I have Arendal 1961 towers and looking to purchase next a sub. Im about 50/50 with movie and music. With your knowledge and expertise what subwoofer would you should suggest to my 1961 towers and room. Thanks for your help!
Hi KC. I'd say the 1961 1S would be a great match or if you have the budget the 1723 1S.
@@NemoPropaganda thanks for your time and replying. I’ll save a little more go with the 1723 s
Does this sub have special placement requirements when set up in narrow side firing orientation?
it shouldn't, anytime we get away from standard designs (front firing) there is a risk it may not be a good fit of the room but there is only one way to be sure, you just have to try it, with their 60 day return period it's no problem. I think it should be okay in most rooms though. You will get the most bass putting it in the right corner but every room is a bit different.
Did you get a discount code for use?😁👍
nah, review sample, it's going back to Arendal as soon as I finish the 1723 review.
Great review. I'm sorry, but you mentioned one of my triggers. When you were talking about the REL HT1205 and its 3 features to adjust. You called the 0-180° switch on the back phase. I hate it when manufacturers call that switch phase. It's not a phase switch. Phase is frequency dependent. It is a polarity switch. Manufacturers in audio should know this, but some still keep labeling it phase. Sorry, that's my rant as you hit my trigger with manufacturers. Cheers brotha, keep up the hard work.
I assure you REL knows the difference but if they labeled it something more technically correct like "signal invert" or "polarity" it would most likely confuse people. 180 phase while not 100% identical to negative polarity does give roughly the same effect. I know you hate subs that don't have variable phase adjustment but I really think you'd be surprised if you played with the 1205, it damn near matches up well with everything with just a few minutes of fiddling.
@@NemoPropaganda it causes confusion because of manufacturers misinforming their customers. My JL's and SVS label it Polarity because they're not going to misinform their customers. I think you mistyped the part about my subs not having variable phase control. I will say, phase does some really weird things in room and I won't purchase a sub without variable phase control. It gives you the ability to get a perfect handoff at your desired crossover frequency, if you know how to use it properly. Without it, you have to place your sub around in different spots around the room just to get it properly phase aligned at the crossover frequency. I personally feel manufacturers not including variable phase control is pure laziness, especially at their not so budget friendly MSRP, such as REL and KEF. They will never get a dime out of me, because if they want to cut corners with no including variable phase, and want to be lazy by not educating their customers properly, where else are they being lazy & cutting corners? And because of this, I can never recommend subwoofers from those companies. Variable phase control should be an industry standard, but it's not. Consumers aren't educated on the benefits of it, how it actually works, and how to use it. Such a shame really. There needs to be better practice and education from the manufacturers to the consumers instead of taking their money and running.
@@dicmccoy i didn't mistype, I think you misread :). So I would agree with you if in a real worlds scenario what you were saying turned out to be the case but REL with their polarity only option integrate better than damn near anything. I love Rythmik, that's no secret but certainly takes me more time to setup one of their subs than it does any REL. I really think if you tried one you might be genuinely surprised with how easily you can set one up and have it blended perfectly with so few settings. It's not laziness, it's intentional. REL believes a subwoofer must be easy for the end user. Not every customer is a hobbyist who wants to learn, plenty of guys just want good sound for the family when they watch a movie. They don't care about slopes & phase & crossovers. You're thinking about this from the perspective of a hobbyist/audiophile but we're the minority vs the mass market. I think what REL is doing is awesome, it makes their subs super easy to recommend because a child can set them up and make them sound great. I really think you might change your tune if you had one in your room bro, trust me I was in your boat until I started playing with them.
@@NemoPropaganda Very aptly said. I don't want to digress from the Arendal thread, but having the Rel Predator for some time, I would say that it blends easily without much headaches and effort although the phase switch is either 0 or 180. In short it's a fantastic sub and Rel knows what they are doing
You are also right when you mention that a lot of people are not audiophiles or hobbyists. At the end of the day, they just want to hear good music or movie experience with the family without going too much into graphs and slopes like me. Rel did a fantastic job on the HT series but yes they should be priced a bit cheaper.
@@NemoPropaganda yeah, sorry. I did misread it. Reading is a skill. 😂
I just don't know if a can do it. I will always have this notion in the back of my mind constantly eating me away, wondering if the subs are properly in phase or not. That's why I can't wait for the Dirac Bass Control upgrade to become available for my NAD. It takes care of all the phase for you. It saves me from that notion eating away at me. When that become available, then I don't have to worry about if a sub has or doesn't have variable phase control.
Thanks so much for your honest and articulate reviews, I’ve been watching your channel to find a subwoofer that will work well with 2 tower and 2 bookshelf paradigm speakers and 4 SVS prime elevation speakers. I’m so overwhelmed with stats, been looking at SVS pros, your last review on Arendal and Monolith. If there’s 1 that has great for action and Syfy movies (primarily movies) and of course music. prefer lower frequency levels and can handle mid bass and have great texture. I listen to how you speak on point for each sub you have reviewed, that being said I definitely would appreciate your suggestions
Hey BS, I think something like a Rythmik E15 or REL 1510 is what you're looking for :)
Just curious the Rythmik SVX 12 ported would not be a good fit?
@@jaden9037 oh bro if you have the space the FVX12 is one of my favorite subwofoers ever!!!!!!! The E15 is the more accurate but I like the slightly exaggerated low end the vented FVX12 has.
That was exactly the reason why I asked because I knew that you love that sub and I was really going off that recommendation and hoping that that was what you were gonna be suggesting awesome thanks so much✌️ i’ve watched all your videos on the subwoofers, That’s why I really was hoping that would be the one you were suggesting. I’m hoping they will have a sale for the holidays
@@jaden9037 Rythmik never has sales so I'd just grab it now brother. Yeah FVX12 is a true hidden gem of a subwoofer.
I have a 1723 1 s waiting for me when I get back home in a month, hoping to hear your review of it before I get to set it up. Maybe will get some advice from you, this replaces an old Velodyne FSR 15 so it's got to be an upgrade from that!
oh yeah, that old velodyne might as well be dog shit compared to the 1723 1S, you should notice a dramatic improvement immediately. Setup of DSP subs really varies from room to room so I suggest talking to the guys over at Arendal for setup advice, they're really friendly and knowledgeable :).
I know they’re in different price points, but are two Rel T9/X WAY better than two 1961 1S? Your comment about world class fidelity in Rel is what makes ask. Can two T9/Xs have enough output to match the 1961?
Hey John, it's hard to be sure without measuring their SPL so I can't really answer for sure. I can guess however and my guess is that two T9X subwoofers should be able to produce higher SPL than a single 1961 1S.
As far as being WAY better it depends on your gear, if your connecting the REL to a cheap amp you're not going to experience that world class fidelity, it's still going to sound incredible though. WAY better depends on what you value, if you value nuanced detail you will think the 9X is way better, if you value bass attack more then you will think the 1961 is way better. Bother are great subwoofers so I will leave you with this.
If you're an audio purist and you believe less is more then go for the REL, if you like having lots of adjustments, settings, fine grain control to adjust then go for the 1961.
Awesome review as usual. I like the laid back, more discussion like style.
How does this sub compare against REL HT 1205?
1205 is very good, I love it, 1961 is built to a higher standard and has a stronger presentation. In this scenario buying manufacture direct gets you an advantage but the if the 1205 is on sale or cheaper then it's still a really good option.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks! I'm trying out REL HT/1205. Loving is so far.
@@NemoPropaganda One last question :)
Do you think REL HT1205 with Arendal 1961 Bookshelf speakers is a good combo? HT1205 has been very easy to integrate, no double about that. But is it overpowering for those speakers?
@@uTube00789 the 1205 is very versatile, it blends with everything. It's best with the crossover knob around 9'oclock. Beyond that it's not going to have the high fidelity midbass (like above 50hz) of a T7X or T9X so you may have a small hole in the bass region because 1961 speakers might need to blend higher up but it should sound pretty good but you may want to go with slightly larger speakers. 1961 are so small :).
@@NemoPropaganda Oh, so 1205s tend to lose bass quality above 70-80Hz crossover?
Thanks for the review....🤘🤘🤘✌️
Hey, any idea how these compare to the Velodyne SPL 1200 Ultra (used) for about the same price?
Those Velodynes are approaching 20 years old now, stay away!! At that age the suspension is worn out and the adhesives used will fail soon. Furthermore while they were good for their time those old subs can't compete in todays market. Sure they can make bass but the SPL range was very mono-tone with terrible bass note distinction. It wasn't uncommon for people to think the frequency knob was broken because they mostly sound the same regardless of where you set the freq knob. In short yes this Arendal 1961 1S is a superior option.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks for the reply! The ultra series released in 2009 i think, and there are some examples built in 2016 in the european used market (using hifishark to see what’s available outside of my country) but I get your points. I’m interested in them because of the beefy hardware and Velodyne’s digital drive technology, which from what I understand is similar or identical to Rhytmik’s servo.
I’m also looking at REL and Arendal options. Would prefer a pair of smaller subs instead of one bigger sub. I see you like REL. How do you find the t5/7/9 to compare against the t5/7/9i and t5/7/9x? Are there major upgrades on the newer series or are the t (non i or x) subs good bargains nowadays? REL specsheets don’t look impressive at all, but people seem to love them nonetheless. Would you go with a pair of HT/1003 or 1205, or with a pair of t7(i) or t9(i)? That is if I prioritize SQ, but still appreciate extra extension.
P.s. I don’t know why I’m not subscribed, but you’ve come a long way since your s400 days in your old apartment/listening room. Didn’t you have a different name? Time to subscribe :)
@@agdp15 Sorry I didn't see the Ultra part and assumed it was the SPL II range. I don't have any experience with the Ultra I'm sorry. I havn't heard any of the Ti range except the 5i. The 5x bass is noticeably improved for sure sounding fuller, bigger, and deeper overall. As far as the 2 vs 1 I say pick what looks best i the room. I go back and fourth between dual and single sub setups often so I run both. No my name was always the same :). If you want extension go for the pair of 1205 or step up to a pair of 9x but honestly I think a pair of 7X will have enough extension for most people, it's what I use fairly often.
@@NemoPropaganda Thank you :)
M&K Sound X12 (or X10) Subwoofer would be cool to see you review and compare. Also, open baffle subs ie: GR-Research...would be interesting
I don't really like the look of the M&K stuff and the price is very high for what looks like a pro-audio utilitarian piece. As far as open baffle I don't think it would be a good fit for my small room.
Painted black, black grill, similar to the Arendal. M&K's Push Pull dual woofer design is unique tho. "X12 is rewarded with “reference status” for music and movie production, and Home Theater applications." I have installed these, tried many subs, they are really good. Yes, not the cheapest options, that's one downside.
@@mag4633 oh yeah I bet it's really good, it's just over $2000 is out of most peoples budget so I try to review stuff I think more people will be interested in :)
@@mag4633 M&Ks are used by every major film company in the world also DTS, Dolby laboratories and THX use m&k and have since 1994...they are incredible subs that with there topology give you 6 DB gain over standard subs...
Which would you choose (ur taste) the 1961 or L12 ?
Big price difference between the two, for US customers the L12 has a level of performance to price that is nearly impossible to beat. My system is a little too expensive to pair well with either of those, neither one is exactly my taste. I much prefer the Rythmik FVX12.
@@NemoPropaganda What about for music only?
@@AromaFrank I make these videos to help you guys decide on what you want for yourself, not for me to decide lol. I decided on a subwoofer a long time ago :). I use a pair of REL T9X usually or a single Rythmik FVX12 depending on my mood and upstairs where I watch TV an SVS 3000 Micro. The L12 and 1961 are both good, but neither is going to dethrone my Rythmik FVX12 or REL T9X pair.
@@NemoPropaganda 👍
@@NemoPropaganda let's see what you are gonna say about 1723 1s. I'm eagerly waiting for that review.
Great review! I dare you to try their "bookshelf" 1723 monitor speakers!
nah, too big for me lol
You are doing a fine job with your reviews 👍 I am looking for a new sub to compliment my Klipsch RP-8000 Fronts and 504 Center. Backs atm are still some old BeoLab 8000s but I am gonna replace them eventually. My current sub seems to not have the necessary power, it's clipping with some sources.
So my candidates are SVS PB-2000 Pro or the Arendal 1961 1V or maybe bite the bullet and get the 1723 1V. Since I am in Europe, the SVS is rather pricey here compared to US. It's 1.5k USD for the PB-2000 Pro. The 1723 will set me back 2k+ USD. I know you have not tested the 1961 1V but would you think I shall rather go with that than the SVS PB-2000 Pro? I like the app though on the SVS... Thx for your advice.
Hey so I have not heard either ported model but PB-2000 is comparable to 1961 1v while the 1723 1v is competing with the PB3000. Both companies make really good subs but I can't recommend one over the other here because I have not heard these specific ported models.
@@NemoPropaganda Thx for your answer. I had contact with my SVS dealer (he has many other brands too but not Arendal). They told me that 99% of their customers eventually went for the SB model and not PB. Even folks where they home installed the PB came back as they were not 100% satisfied, got the SB instead and were happy. So, it prolly comes down to me also getting the SB model. So I have to device between SB-2000 Pro and Arendal 1961 1s. What you think?
@@Bicki what is the price difference in your region? Like how much is each one?
@@NemoPropaganda The SB-2000 I can get for a little more than 1.2k USD. With the Arendal it's an issue as it's already 1.2k USD but has to be shipped to Switzerland. Arendal will pay the shipment but then there is the import tax + postal fees and stuff, which will put at least 200 on top of the product price.
@@Bicki damn so $1200 & $1400, well they're both worth it, I do feel the 1961 1s is a bit of a better performer and worth the extra money especially considering the standard finish is paint but you have to draw the line somewhere. You can't lose either way, both are good subs, flip a coin, ask the wife, or pick based on looks perhaps :).
Has you're bud gave you any feedback on the 1s and how it's performing since he's had it back at his place?
You mean my friend Trent that got the 1723 1S? He absolutely loves it, he also bought the 1961 towers to match.
@@NemoPropagandainteresting, think I might try that route myself, people seem to be rating them quite highly.
@@slyfoxx8540 I have the 1961 tower here now, its good, extremely neutral and build extremely well.
@@NemoPropaganda not sure whether to go towers or 1723 monitors or bookies considering my small place to be honest. I know they do free shipping but wonder how many free ships they'll do lol. Definitely want they're brand but not sure which will suit me best, and the 1s or 1v would be perfect. And can't believe you're the only one who's done a 1s review, seems like a quality woofer.
@@slyfoxx8540 just depends what your goals are and what aesthetic you want. If it were me I'd go the bookshelf paired with a 1723 1s.
Does this unit better suited for HT compared to stereo?
I review subs primarily for stereo use so I can't speak to the maximum SPL but this should easily be a competent competitor in the HT space for it's size.
I watched this again, after a while. Always great to look back and reassess. I am like you when it comes to fidelity in bass. REL is king. But i discovered I like both. I need a vented monster and a sq sub. I just like all bass, hahaha. I mean, dire straits need a sq and movies need spl. i think. Still great vid. Keep it coming m,an.
that will require size :D such a thing does exist, something like the Rythmik FVX12 or FV15HP is what you're describing, if those are too expensive consider the RSL 12S.
@@NemoPropaganda ha, they are exactly what i been looking at. Or maybe keep my 2x 1961 1s Arendal and get some vented subs.
So what’s your favourite sub in the ~1k price range?
I have a few favorites for different reasons. Rythmik LV12, F12SE, or FVX12, REL HT1205 or 1003 MK2, RSL 12S, JL D110, REL T7X, etc....
@@NemoPropaganda have you tried the HSU Research ULS-15 mk2? Looks like another bargain on your side of the pond at least
@@gustoaudio8711 no, their office is down the street but they don't return my emails :/
@@NemoPropaganda looks like good value and about as compact as a 15” could be. They need someone like you to test it!
@@gustoaudio8711 I emailed them 3 times and called twice, no response. Not much else I can do :(
I hate side firing subwoofers. I don't care how good the bass is I would never buy one but I did enjoy watching the review. I would like to see you review a Rythmik 15 inch subwoofer. Can a good 15 inch subwoofer be musical or is 12 inches the cut off point for speed and accuracy. Thanks for the great reviews
Yes a 15 or a 18 or a 21 can be used for music. Especially servo controlled. The real question is room size and system integration. Ponder that and you have your answer.
yeah, anytime we get away from front firing drivers there is a chance it will not be a good fit for the room or bass can localize, etc... But for some rooms it's a great fit. Personally my OCD just doesn't like it lol. Big subs can be musical but most of them are not.
@@Phloored correct! Sizing the sub for the room is very important for music systems.
Since you have reviewed both I'll fire away here. Going duals, movie/tv usage only, would you prefer dual 1723 1S over dual 1961 1S? We Never listen at reference, room is 18'x15'x8'. 1723's warrant the $1200 difference in pricing and a worthwhile expenditure over the 1S? 10year warranty on both, 5 years on plate amp notwithstanding.
Hi Travis, this is a value question which is impossible to answer because value is very personal. To me the 1723 1s is worth the price difference for sure but others may feel the 1961 1s is the better value. If the money is not a concern then for sure go for 1723. But if its too much then 1961 is still very good.
Ar-en-dal .. It's the city where the CEO lives / company is based in Normay.
Very cool products and great value. =)
Air-en-dale, same thing lol
Not in the same price range but would love to here a review on the Starke SW12 and SW15.
I have no interest in Starke products. I believe their are better options from more reputable companies.
Hi how does the 1961 1s vs the 1961 1v
I have not heard the 1v but it probably compares the same way most ported counterparts compare to their sealed equivalents which is more output and slightly slower transient response.
I have the arendal 1723 2s sub now then😁😄😅👍
So, You love that low-frequency extension... but You prefere sealed still? 🤔Even by specs 1961 1v has lower frequency.
so this is a bit of a misunderstood topic, i pick sealed for the transient response as I mostly listen to music however sealed subs often times can extend lower as long as you have decent room gain where ported subwoofers generally fall off a cliff below port tuning frequency but have more output in the lower frequencies due to the port soo in many rooms a sealed sub can extend lower than a ported one but a ported one will always have more output.
@@NemoPropaganda I've read this somewhere, but didn't get it properly. Now I see... I read so many topics about sealed and ported, and getting lost still. So, there's a chance, that 1723 1s will be a better choice for a room around 30 sq.m., than 1961 1v? Somehow, I thought, that ported goes lower... Probably, because of those specs 😕 So complicated 😐 I love deep, soft and low bass even in music, not just in movies.
@@8000860 based on your taste you should for sure go for ported then. That softness yet powerful rumble you're referring to is usually ported subs, I like that also but a lot of people don't which is why they go for sealed which has much more of a clear leading edge to it's attack.
@@NemoPropaganda Yeah, I had same thoughts. Also, Klipsch RP-8000 in front begin with pretty low frequency. So, I thought, I need that extra-low bass for them, since 30+ Hz are already fine with speakers alone.
I purchased a rel 1205HT. It's being paired with kef R7s and R2c. The rel is not getting as low as I'd like and I'm experiencing chuffing. I'm considering buying one Arendal 1723 1V or two 1961 1V to replace the rel. What would you recommend? Thank you in advance, really appreciate your videos and feedback!
Sealed subs can’t chuff so I’m not sure what you might be hearing there. Experiment with placement if you can switch phase and see if that helps. The 1205 should dig as low as any good sealed 12” sub aside from the Rythmik L12 which has more extension than virtually all similar competitors due to its servo design.
If none of that works you may indeed want a ported sub. My ported recommendation is the Rythmik FVX12 as it has the speed/accuracy of a sealed design and the output of a ported. It’s awesome!
@@NemoPropaganda oh I think I described it wrong. It just sounds like the it's maxing out on its excursion? Making a rattling noise.. I'm really liking how the Arendals look especially having white kef speakers. One concern with the Rythmik is the size.
@@NemoPropaganda do you think the rythmik fvx12s outperform arendal 1961s side by side? I'm looking for something articulate that can reach very low. Wouldn't mind paying for the rythmiks in white. Curious your thoughts between the two. Thank you!
@@AnonymousGameWarden Yes, the FVX12 is seriously incredible. I’ve not heard the ported Arendals but the FVX12 is the best sounding ported sub I’ve ever heard. I still have my long term review sample and use it very often so my memory of it is very recent. I’ve contemplated pulling the trigger on a white one a few times but it’s hard to justify since I already have a black one. Maybe jump on a forum and see if any local guys have an arendal or rythmik you can audition. If you’re in socal you can swing by.
Hmmmm….One of these Arendal 1961 or dual SB-1000pros ….?
so that's kind of like asking 2 sb1000 or 1 sb2000. The 1961 1S is like an SB2000 Pro but slightly better in every way except no cell phone app. For EU customers the 1961 1S seems like a no brainer vs the SB2000 Pro, for US customers they have to decide if they want the cell phone app or the slightly better sound and standard painted cabinet. Most people will tell you 2 lesser subs is better than 1 good sub but personally I would rather have 1 really awesome product vs 2 lesser products but that's just me. Either way the SB1000 Pro is very good and a pair will be awesome, likewise a single 1961 will be awesome so you will win either way :D
hmmm, side firing? it's a square. Is it the side because of the logo? Sorry. it just struck me as kind of funny. Great review as ALWAYS. edit" HOT is not flavor, it is sensation.
In the us the svs is cheap, in the eu arendal is cheaper than svs. Easy choice depending on the country. Same reason i went for the 1723 1.5 two years ago
Not anymore my bro, in the US the 1961 1S and SB2000 Pro are now the same price of $899, it makes it a tough choice. The SB3000 is still cheaper than the 1723 1s but I consider them both to be wroth their price so I'm saying I feel the 1723 1s is slightly better for it's slightly higher price. Either way you've ended up with an outstanding subwoofer so that is good :D
@@NemoPropaganda yeah i had to carry it one step at a time up a curved staircase. Never doing that again. Now it’s parked in a separate room collecting dust as i’m not attempting to move it downstairs. It’ll be the death of either me, the sub or both lol. Now eyeing a smaller 1961 1s to replace it as it’s half the weight and half the size. Easier to carry🥲. Also eyed the sb2000 pro but it’s €300 more expensive here than the 1s
@@Zoranurai13 bahahaha, oh man, I relate deeply! Oh man if it's 300 euro more for you guys the 1961 is an easy choice for sure!
Extra spice at 25 hz please 😀
Nice spice!
The weight is 20kg. It’s a no no. I carry subs for work 3 times a week to play in small
Médium places. I collect subs but not exceeded ‘more than 18kg it’s a no go. 👎🏼 Still this seems interesting ✅
REL 1205 and SVS SB-2000 Pro are each under 18kg. Probably the maximum you can get with that weight limit.
@@NemoPropaganda great videos Nemo!
You. Must be thinking
“Why the hell he take audiophile stuff to use it as a PA systems ?”
Haha 😂 I have. A few and just find a rel r218 for speaker integration playing keyboard and singing for 10 to 25 people at restaurants. I’m an audiophile too so (I just to use Qsc,Rcf,jbl, Ev,etc) but as I play at slow volume i take my focus 200xd Dynaudio or elac navis arb, or genelec 8341 musicians complain at me “people won’t pay”!! but people always comment how good it sounds. So I’m crazy at sound the sound is for me
@@LuisJacob366 nothing wrong with that brother :)
Try the 1961 1V:-)
I start to get really picky as subwoofers get heavier and at 80lbs I don't think I'll cover that one. I did love the 1723 1S though :)
Ahhh nooooo!! 😢 I also wanted to see a 1961 1V review. I think this is probably one of their most popular subs. They cancel the whole 1961 line but kept the subs probably because they sell so much. The 1723s are probably too big for most people. Damn. You are easily the best reviewer of speakers, especially subs. It's a shame we won't get to see your review the sub that I wanted. 😒 Keep up the good work though man your channel is tops.
@@Jusstisse I'll answer this question in your other comment.
Actually it's 12 coats of paint
Videos a bit old, not sure what you're referring to.
1961 or 1205? In two minds. Have an original strata for the past 25 yrs.
I like both, they're just really different as is their price. If you are a fan of a brand I generally recommend sticking to the brand.
Love you bro 🇮🇳
"being more accurate isn't better than being more dynamic"...
Dude, it *is*.
A speaker / subwoofer is not an instrument.
It's not supposed to "add its own character", "make it sound more musical" or whatever.
Its sole task is to accurately reproduce the input signal - *but amplified*.
When - and only *when* - it can do *that*, the user might choose to *add* or *subtract* something to/from the signal.
So sure, add a PEQ or "bass boost" knob or whatever works to achieve that.
But when everything is disabled and taken out of the equation, the task of any speaker is to reproduce the input signal without adding or subtracting anything.
Do you also believe the only purpose of food is to nourish the body? The only purpose for sex is to reproduce? The only purpose of driving is to get from point A to point B? You are welcome to have an opinion on what you value as an audio enthusiast but please don't force your boring perspective down my throat. I'm simply not interested.
This is not hard 🤪
One of midbass units in nearfield, one of the atackbeast on each wall (not corner). Then you have all the midbass you need combined with all the atack you could want.
I'm kind of like Winnie the Pooh (not sure if name is spelled correct), I say: yes please I'll have both deep and midbass, thank you 🤪🤪🤪
that's common in home theater, 2 smaller subs flanking the couch for tactile midbass while 2 monster subwoofers are on the front wall for powerful LFE rumble. The reality is you absolutely can have the sound any way you want so long as you're willing to spend the cash and accommodate the gear in your room :D
@@NemoPropaganda
It is not the will...
It is the amount of dough not present that is the limit 🙊
The will, and imagination, knows no limits 🤪
Me likey.
I've seen a lot of your reviews, but I started subscribing just now, I don't know why, I liked the video format from the beginning I started to watch, but better later than never, right? I have a lot to say, much more than for any other reviewer on RUclips.
First of all, while you are new to this whole HiFi game, the hardest thing is to choose what is what... Till you know what you like and what you want, you try to visit as many local HiFi stores as you can, and listen to as many systems as possible, we all was at that stage sometime when everything is new and seems more complicated than you could imagine. When find some gear which you like and don't like, next step start to search who likes the same things as you, otherwise it's practically impossible to find what you're looking for, because one says it's good, the other says it's bad and you get this better... It's harder than it looks at first glance. About snake oil things better not even to start, everything just gets even more complicated.
I liked your channel from the beginning, when after all the auditions I chose my first speakers Focal Aria 906, let's be clear, there are not many reviewers who choose Focal instead of something else, but you like Focal as much as I do, even at that price of 2000 USD in the USA, which is absurd... And you still think it's awesome, even for that price. Here in Europe we can buy them for less than 1000 euros, I paid for mine brand new 750 euros together with Aria stands (bundle), I'm trying to imagine how much more you would love them if they cost that much in the US 😂
And yes, the Focal Aria speakers are great, but they lack bass, that's clear from looking at the specs, even without auditioning. I was debating whether to buy a subwoofer or a floorstanding Aria, maybe I would perfectly happy with big Aria's bass without a subwoofer, but I know myself, just the thought and knowing that there is something else what I can't hear (below 35 Hz) would not give me a peace and would probably still thinking about a subwoofer 😄So I decided that a subwoofer is probably a smarter and more practical solution, especially for listening in a medium-sized room (30 square meters in my case), cause we know that to make a speaker which can reproduce a large amount of quality bass with good extension is very expensive, you will pay a lot of money for it and if you probably still will think about a subwoofer, what's the point then? Unless the room is very large, then large towers makes sense. The usual floorstanding speakers still won't cover the whole room, maybe the bass will be enough from the listening position, but if you like to listen while cooking, as I do, the bass still fades away as you go further from the speakers. Next point you mentioned somewhere - a flexibility that allows you place the speakers where and how you want, without focusing on bass is it will get better or worse if I place them like this or this. Bonus point if you want to upgrade your speakers later, you don't need to worry about how much bass they reproduce, you can let for yourself just focus on something whose has mids and high frequencies you liked the most and forget the bass, win win I think.
After I decided to buy a subwoofer instead of large floorstanding speakers, I spent months looking for information, reading forums, and I realized that I was just wasting my time, everything I was looking for is here - on this channel, and there no other reviewer with so many different subwoofers in one place we're all looking for, rather than different opinions gathered from different places. From what I see in the world of audiophiles and Stereo HiFi, there are still more people who think that subs is an attribute of cinemas and there is no place for a subwoofer in a HiFi system at all and if you consider it, you do something wrong in your life...
I really like your analogies and approach, I've thought about it many times, that guy not only likes similar audio equipment as I do, but even thinks similarly, what else do you want when you're looking for something you can trust. I also rarely go to the cinema, I think the sound is just too loud and trying to replicate the scene in real life it would not be as loud as in the cinema, all those bangs, shots, effects with such a volume just hurt my ears, I feel uncomfortable there, I watch movies at home more often at moderate listening levels.
I've already watched more than half of your subwoofer reviews (I skip just those which is not available in Europe - Rythmik, RSL, Aperion because there's no point if you can't buy it) maybe I'll ask for your advice later, if I'll struggle to choose from few options, whatever it is, I hope this channel will live as long as possible.
BTW I think the Velodyne DB12 review has some benefits, it just goes to show that if the product can't compete with competition, you don't care if they sent it for free, they let you keep it or not, you say what you really think and it adds even more confidence.
I understand English almost perfectly, but when I need to write something, I need a bit help from Google translate, I hope this text is possible to understand🙈
thank you for the kind words, yes it was easy to understand no problem. So for Aria 906 as long as the room is not too big an easy choice is pair of REL T5X or T7X. If your system is more focused on theater then instead maybe go for dual 1205 MKII or 1003 MKII. Out of all the subs I've ever tried with Aria 906 REL had the best synergy.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks for you reply, REL is on the Top in my list at the moment, a few your reviews left to watch, I think to buy one at the moment and second later, first I thought T9/X would be perfect, but maybe it's overkill have two of them (I'am a renter so room size can change in the future), I'll use them for music, and I'am a SQ (Mercedes) guy, I want easy integration and it seems like there is no subwoofer, so I glad to hear that REL has good synergy with Focal.
I just remember comment of James Larson from Audioholics about High Level Input and Rel's recommendation use this connection as primary, he is not very positive about this, I don't have an opinion about this, cause I have no experience with it, but I copy here what he wrote in the comment section. This is from video called "Best Powered Subwoofers Under $1,500 for 2020" I'am really interested what are you think about it 🙂
James Larson
1 year ago
Hello Bryan,
The way that Rel advises their subs to be integrated is not all that good. The reason is that most speakers use ports to fill out the low end of the speaker response. The thing about ports is that their output is a cycle out of phase with the driver output. So now you have some phase rotation and group at the low end of a speaker. That is less of a problem when you use modern bass management which can actually end up filtering out port output in favor of the sub. With Rel, you are trying to add on a subwoofer to the full response of the system, so now you have a driver adding output on top of the 360 degrees of phase rotation of the port output.
Another reason why Rel's ideas about sub integration is that for most speakers, the bulk of nonlinear distortion occurs at the lower end of their response, not surprising since deep bass pushes the drivers real hard. The nice thing about modern bass management is that it gives the speaker drivers a break at the low end thereby reducing distortion. But the way Rel does things avoids these advantages.
The low end also takes the most amplification, and using a high-pass filter on the speakers conserves amplification for your main speakers. Basically, it gives your system more headroom. But using the speaker level connection to the sub like how Rel advises also misses this advantage.
The way that Rel advises the sub to be connected to the system is archaic and illogical. I think it's more of a gimmick to appeal to goofy audiophiles that are hung up on analog circuits.
@@nealcaffrey1251 I think everyone has a right to their own opinion. Personally I don't care about rules, measurements, or numbers. I care about what the product sounds like in a real world environment and simply put the REL T/X range stands among the finest sounding subwoofers I've ever heard. Users may choose to connect them via high-level, LFE, or line level as the sub has all 3 options. Personally I don't use LFE or highpass features as I'm a stereo purist and believe less is more. In my system the T/X range sounded outstanding using high level or line input. The biggest benifit to high level in my opinioni is it bypasses the suboutput that often times is poorly designed especially on more affordable or older gear and gives you a cleaner signal. Each user is welcome to experiment on their own to see which option they prefer for their system.
@@NemoPropaganda Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. You're a God of bass, literally 😄
@@nealcaffrey1251 i appreciate the kind words, thank you!
How does it compare to svs 1000 pro?
1961 1S is a big step up compared to SB1000 Pro in all areas. SB 1000 Pro is very good still, much smaller, and $300 cheaper (in usa at least).
@@NemoPropaganda im just researching for a small 15m2 living room but i guess i dont need an entire arendal 1961 for such a small room. maybe just 3.1 instead of 5.1
@@fookoff8660 SB1000 pro is great if you want to save some cash but if you have some extra the 1961 1S is a nice upgrade.
@@NemoPropaganda shocking to me that a 300-,400 more expensive sub is considered that much of an upgrade
@@fookoff8660 the sb1000 pro is $600 while the 1961 1S is $900, that's a 50% increase in price so while $300 may not seem like much it is when its half the price of the first sub. But differences are relative, one mans night & day difference is another mans subtle change. We all experience sound a little differently which makes things even more complicated. If you have the budget for 1961 go for it, if it's a bit out of reach get the sb instead, it's still very good.