CNC TAP + Kinematics? Does it work?
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- The last CNC Tap video is here on the Voron 2.4 R2. This time we're finally testing the CNC Tap on the MRW Kinematics bed! Here's a spoiler - it works and it works well!
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Good video, glad it was worth it. just installed the chaotic lab tap yesterday before I left. Looks good. Trying to figure out best way to use it with the X endstop. Installed the printed part from the site I guess I will glue a hex bolt and use a screw to be able to tweak the endstop. Thanks for running those tests for us!
Thats exactly what I did - sorry it wasn't clear in the video from before. I'm going to record another video this afternoon - I have some time! It'll help you, Joe. Klipper screen with the Waveshare.
Nice! That will definitely be useful. I’m sure I’m not the only one it will help! Your videos are awesome!
The delta between cold and hot deviation of CNC Tap is caused by the viscosity from lubrication used in the mini rail.
Could be - Without some major testing, well beyond the scope of what I did - it could be tested. 3D printers are like large math problems with infinite variables!
Good to know! Mine is still in the post, looking forward to it though.
I agree with you on the CNC parts, but the belt tensioners that chaotic lab do are also worth a buy I think. The Z ones can be printed too, they are on Voron Mods, but I ordered the Tap, Z tensioners and the front ones too replacing the rama idlers.
I'm totally interested in the CNC idlers. I was speaking more of gantry parts. You ordered fronts - installed yet? I'd be interested in knowing what your experiences are!
anyone ever tell you that you kinda look like a young Jean-Claude Van Damme lol
great content, keep it up.
Nope, but thanks! Just don't ask me to do a split!
I wound suspect that as you run the TAP, its settling the Kinamatics bed in its position on the mountings. I wound throw out the first run and replace it with a new run.
Agreed, but I did an average for that reason. People don't like when you throw out data. Remember this was highly scientific lol...
As long as there is a real reason for the outlier, it's ok,in this case I think you could duplicate the problem by just messing with the plate and repeating the test. But it's not worth the time and effort. I have the cnc tap, but it is not yet installed. Like you, I want test before and after
@@TheLemonhawk I'm glad I did - and I'm glad I bought the CNC Tap... It's not a huge expense. As for the Tap I do think probing at the nozzle is the best way - We'll see other methods, such as the Prusa MK4 way in the next year or two!
Nice build buddy
Thanks
Nice to have some data comparisons. How does your bed mesh look with the heated bed?
I'll be sharing that info during the first tune video (there will be 3-4 of them. Starting with a QGL, Z, and mesh)
Why you copy 'average' value into 'Min' column (26:00 - 28:00)?
...Because I'm human. I had to look, and you are 100% correct @ 27:38 I did copy it over wrong. On the plus side the only number that I really give much value to "Standard Deviation" was copied correctly each time. Thanks for pointing that out! I appreciate your attention to detail. Keep it up! I could use a set of eyes on some things - not that I want you to pick apart everything I do, but I'm not afraid to say "I make mistakes". Seriously, thank you for pointing it out so everything in transparent.
There is nothing wrong with making mistakes. I finished building my Voron 2.4 at this month :) Tap has already bought it but hasn't installed it yet. I will simultaneously install Tap, Hall sensors and CANBUS.
Awesome! Did you get the CNC tap? I can tell you that the printed Tap I had works very well and actually would be fine for use. I do think, for the price, the CNC Tap is a great value and is slightly more precise than the printer version. Some of the parts are just really small on the printed tap, small and thin. This causes some flexing and that flexing causes MINOR inconsistencies. They will continue to revise the Tap for the next few months and it will get better and better - but for right now I would go with the CNC version. If it wasn't an option I would consider PC or PCCF or another stiffer and more heat resistant plastic to print the Tap parts. Stay in touch and let me know how your CANbus install goes. I'm not too interested in the hall sensors (less to mechanically go wrong) but I think I would consider sensorless first. (Both CANbus and Sensorless homing are parts of my upcoming 2.4 to 2.4R2 conversion series later this summer). - Hey thanks again for watching! Comment as you see fit!
@@BuildItBasement Chaoticlab CNC Tap. I need to print a mount to magnet. Moving the x-axis clicker to Tap is too hard for me :D At a high speed of movement, the clicker response speed is not always enough and the extruder hits the portal. I hope the Hall sensor will work faster and will have time to stop. Although this does not lead to any visual consequences on the model, it just confuses the sound of the impact.
@@maaGames Your Hall effect sensor should be adjustable so it sounds like a great solution!
Because you have 3 point bed the tap will never work well ( special front left and right). The tap press the bed
It actually does work pretty well... Did you watch the video?
So s, where are getting your information in order to come to that conclusion?
@@ItsDaPlumber No worries 😁
@@BuildItBasement Did you run a bed mesh with that bed ? like on the font 1/3?
I have a 300 w the outriggers and you can physically see the bed move when the Tap comes down on it. The mesh plot shows it clearly. I used a scale and the force is dead on. Maybe the CNC Tap would be better but I am a bit suspect. A kinematic Bed is a general pain because the bed falls out if you need to tip the printer over and it is extremely awkward to try to prevent it.