Canbus is a gift from heaven, especially for those who are self sourcing. A canbus board and usb to can converter is still cheaper than buying 20+meters of ptfe wire and drag chains
@@Bigpopp1 the first time is hell, after that its easy. Flash canbus firmware to the can board, create can0, be so wise and use a usb to can converter and no built in can bridge. Can boot, or Katapult now, is optional. I personally always stm32cubeprogrammer for flashing new firmware, the firmware on my ebb42 is from over a year ago and still works fine, so i dont see the benefit of installing canboot (which is more involving in my opinion than klipper) when you need to flash firmware not even every year
Why shouldn't you use built in can bridge? At the moment i have a new mainboard (manta e3ez) connected to an ebb36. Had a little strugle getting connected but now it's working. Do you think that a seperate can bridge works more stable or just easy to install?@@kilianlindlbauer8277
1. Forgetting to unplug when plugging in neopixel - shorted board 2. Not having extra parts, ordering more and having to wait. 3. Not understanding printer.cfg - kept getting error and finally figured out it was due to not commenting out thermistor configuration because I didn't have one in the bed area. 4. Not reading ahead and understanding exactly what I needed to do prior to just trying to do it. 5. Last but not least, rushing through. Like you said, this is time consuming and you do get burned out. This is a marathon, not a sprint. Plan on getting things done in parts. Get it done then stop. Trying to get it done as fast as possible causes mistakes.
Every tech savy individual should built a voron. I self sourced my 2.4 in 2020 and it was a overwhelming experience that brought me in touch with myself like nothing else before 😅
I built my Voron 2.4 350 from a kit by LDO motors. The kit and instructions were excellent and I avoided most of the mistakes you mention. Drag chains and robots have been working fine for decades. You have to use the right wire, correct arrangement and slack, then you will have zero problems. CAN bus is cool too. My kit came with PCB for the stealth burner and preterminated cable to run in the drag chains. Easy. Fun. What’s not to like! ;-)
Its nice to see some good advice in a sea of bad advice. My two cents as I am in the midst of a Trident build: A couple of 123 blocks and a set of precision round space blocks will dramatically improve a frame build and setting the linear rails. I'm using a faux granite countertop rem for the build surface. A light soft face hammer (emphasis on light) is a help seating frame extrusions in pre-tension. My result was a square frame without the need for tweaking.
I built a Formbot kit for the 2.4 350 which was the equivalent of about US$1000 delivered. I’d say that’s good value - the Moons motors are very smooth and quiet. Frame and fasteners were excellent quality. Heatbed is nice and flat. Even the fans have been OK. The wiring has been good, the Omron probe works well but the printer does have to be pre-heated for about half an hour to get the Z-offset correct. The only fault I’ve had in a year since was the thermistor wiring for the toolhead (the thin white wires broke). I think it’s also worth spending a little extra on a good 5” touchscreen as it makes operating the printer more pleasant. I built it with a Rapido hotend (HF not UHF) which has also been trouble-free.
From someone who build a Switchwire from an Ender 3 I would offer this advice. Check exactly what hardware you have before building. I lucked out and my board, frame and PSU were good, but Creality is known for cheaping out and sometimes substituting parts.
I built a Trident last year (my first printer that wasn't 'take it out of the box and print) and self-sourced using "Parts Kits" from LDO, DFH, and West3D in the states purchased in larger batches (to get free shipping) during sales. I sat down and did the math on that, and it comes out to around what I would have paid for an (at the time) LDO Trident Rev A kit, only I had a hot end and Raspberry Pi.
Just a note on "kits". I've been working with LDO voron kits since their very first batch 1 and let me tell some corrections to the video: - LDO documentation supplements the Voron manual to give you pretty much all the pointers a newbie needs. - there is such a thing as "building stock" with the LDO kits, as the documentation has made those decisions and recommends to start 1 way (use induction probe first, get stock firmware working next, print, and then print any mods you want to continue - or not!). - it's $600 cheaper
Hey. Thanks for sharing. I am considering building on at some point. It does seem to be quite the project. I have a few printers and am just about to convert one of them to klipper in the next few days. It will be my first time so I am a bit nervous. I'm going to do it on the sv06. Once I get comfortable with klipper etc. I will likely build a v02 or or a rook
I am not a beginner and the Voron is not my first 3D printer in the last 10 years. When I came across the Voron, I thought it would be a good idea to buy all the parts myself. To be honest, this was a stupid idea. No shop has all the parts. So the shipping costs are very high because many orders have to be placed. Then some parts are not available anywhere. This has led to a constant search for a shop. And it took quite a long time until everything was finally together (almost 3/4 of a year). The advantage, of course, is that you can choose the quality of the parts yourself and you know what is installed. But today I would recommend buying a kit from LDO and replacing the parts you don't like. So if you want original Hiwin linear rails, you'd better throw away or sell the LDO ones. In the end, this is much cheaper than buying everything by hand. For what my Voron cost in the end, I could have bought a Raise3D Pro 3. And that would have included a dual extruder... On the other hand, tinkering was a lot of fun, which you don't have with a ready-made device. 🙂
Thanks for the highlight video. I personally recognise some of these easy to make mistakes on my 0.2 kit build, but many fall away if you have a good kit.
I think for a first time it’s also a good idea to get pre crimped wires from someone like fabreeko or someone similar. They are crimped and labeled which can help you not fry something and spend precious time trying to figure out what it is. Also could be much easier to get the frame kit while your at it if your sourcing everything and not getting a kit.
Cool video, I self sourced my trident 250 for like 1200$. That includes branded parts and mods like a webcam and different toolhead ect. I recommend you look at partial kits, some vendors sell kits with all the screws, motion ect. This saved me on cost and they give free shipping a lot of the time.
I bought a full LDO kit but had a lot of the same challenges. The biggest build challenge was the variations of wiring ... Especially the bed(two options floating about about where into the Octopus Board to connect the Bed heater). Now that I have things semi-working ... The tuning is not going smoothly
ROFL, great video, but the neo pixel pads are huge, hell the legs of the neopixel itself are huge. If you have any trouble soldering those, I would suggest you follow a learn to solder tutorial.
I switched to CAN after a year or so and approximately 1000 print hrs on my v2. I ended up having a couple broken wires in the cable chains. CAN makes it soooo much simpler to repair a broken wires and to diagnose any issues.
@@AlexViniciusOC CANBUS (controller area network) commonly found in automobiles today. it is a data transfer protocol that allows micro controllers to talk to each other over a single pair of wires. Essentially you add a tool headboard with a micro controller to your tool head and run a pair of power wires and a pair of communication wires and that is all you need. No more need for 16 wires controlling all of your fans, heater, part cooling, thermistor, probe, etc.
Thank you for your reflections on the project, which can broadly apply to any largish scale task. I can certainly empathise with @DoRC. With age comes a need to keep one's eye on the main game instead of the thrill of the chase. I have been toying with building a 6x3x3 ft system just for the thrill of it but I am glad I haven't had the time yet. The design has changed significantly as potential uses refine the structure. BTW, I subscribed.
Thank you for your feedback and the subscribe. I certainly agree with your mention of large scale task. As a person who likes to DIY tinker on cars, that has certainly been a re-occuring theme for me lol
I've had zero problems with pre cut ldo extrusions but i agree that you shouldn't try cutting you own extrusion without proper gear. I did cut my own extrusions for my second 3d printer build but i ended up milling the exstrusions in length to ensure that they would be as square as possible when being built.
I sourced my Voron 2.4, too and agree with you 100%. I even bought so much spare parts, It is about 80% through to my first Trident. My wife will kill me... :-D
I didn't just build a Voron, I studied and redesigned it. I have Built a V0 style printer but with 235x235 bed size, which is complete. Current working on a trident style with a 310x310 bed, About 90% designed and built. Just hotend mount and cooling to do. I should have just copied the voron and upscaled to match the bed size, but where is the fun in that. I intend to make it IDEX but the design I'm looking at isn't easy AND for now Building a single extruder is the aim.
I cut my own frame and had one rail that just wasn't right. Come to find out that one was ever so slightly bowed. I cut a new one and got it all square. I have a small milling machine so getting them square wasn't hard, but it was tedious and if I had to do it over, I would just get a kit. I already had a lot of the parts from other printers like wires, motors, hot ends, bed, screws, pi, etc. so it was cheaper than a kit, but I think I would have been better to keep all that stuff as spare parts.
After watching this video I'm so glad I bought a P1P. I did this as a hobby for years and I was torn between going voron or BL for my first core XY. I think I'm at the point now where I just want things to work so I can concentrate on the design and the enjoyment of the end result of prints. Don't get me wrong I'm sure a lot of people have a lot of fun doing this but weeks of tweaking sounds pretty horrible to me especially when the P1P basically just works.
same here. right when I heard $1800 I lost interest, fast. It's just my ignorance that makes me think this way. Maybe the OP can shed some light as to why one would spend this much on a 3D printer just to have to tune it and tinker with it. I come from 5 ender 3's and I now have 3 P1P's and haven't been happier.
@@TripasGaragehaving built it himself is presumably worth the cost to him. 3d printing as a hobby is about the fun of being able to make your own stuff, so it doesn't seem that crazy that people into it would be willing to spend a lot of money on building their own printer, especially since with how big the modding community is with these kinds of projects, you can quickly end up with a machine that is entirely unique to you.
@@TripasGarage1800 is like top of the line. you can build one that will print just as fast at the same quality for 900 bucks it’s all how it’s assembled that determines the printer , honestly from my view where I do it as a hobby and a little side job I’m probably never going to buy a prebuilt printer again lol this is just to much fun and you build a top of the line machine that comes with the knowledge and know how. I’ve learned more about 3D printing with building one voron in a couple weeks than I have the ten years I’ve been messing with 3D printers
I am now struggling with my own thoughts. I have it in my head that I want to build a coreXY printer partly from previously purchased parts, and partly from a few parts bought here and there. Somewhere I feel that the whole concept is flawed, as for some reason it feels both simple and complex at the same time. -> So it might be a mistake to not choose from existing projects when building a printer. :D
I'm working on a corexy printer design for myself now. I have the first year of mechanical engineering under my belt and am adept with Solidworks but man is it a lot of work... Unless you want to spend at least a month designing, stick with a ready design or just make mods. If you mod enough the design changes significantly as well
build a voron only if you want to build, for the rest of mortals who just wants to print toys, get a bambu A series, or even the later Creality models. I love my 350 Trident though.
2:13 than again it depends on how high end you are going with all the parts, if you grab top of the line everything of course you are going to spend that much. And yes you can get good deals especially if you actually have any other skills or tools, if you are a blank slate that can't do anything then its best just to buy a machine.
2k? I thought it's around $1k-$1.5k... Regarding the toolhead I have standard wiring and I didn't have any wires break after 10 months of use. Print quality was also very good almost right away.
I strongly disagree on using canbus instead of just more wires. I love my chains. And if you organize em well, replacing a wire or two or even all of them is not a big deal. All you need is to know what you're doing and the right tool. Also, high quality wires can last you decades. The secret is to use really good PTFE wires and not attempting to save a buck. The whole thing takes less than an hour for an experienced person. If you're not, take some time to practice crimping and routing. Canbus is cool, but chains are charming. As of money thing, you can't spend more than a couple hundred bucks on the while wiring even if you include top grade tools and connectors. And you can get very decent set including tools for under fifty. Worst case scenario, get yourself a pre-crimped top grade loom. Considering the price of everything else, you should not compromise of wiring.
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
Canbus is a gift from heaven, especially for those who are self sourcing. A canbus board and usb to can converter is still cheaper than buying 20+meters of ptfe wire and drag chains
Lucky for me. My parts kits came with wires and umbilical boards instead.
Canbus is fantastic but such a pain in the ass the first time your do it. 😅
@@Bigpopp1 the first time is hell, after that its easy. Flash canbus firmware to the can board, create can0, be so wise and use a usb to can converter and no built in can bridge. Can boot, or Katapult now, is optional. I personally always stm32cubeprogrammer for flashing new firmware, the firmware on my ebb42 is from over a year ago and still works fine, so i dont see the benefit of installing canboot (which is more involving in my opinion than klipper) when you need to flash firmware not even every year
Why shouldn't you use built in can bridge? At the moment i have a new mainboard (manta e3ez) connected to an ebb36. Had a little strugle getting connected but now it's working. Do you think that a seperate can bridge works more stable or just easy to install?@@kilianlindlbauer8277
1. Forgetting to unplug when plugging in neopixel - shorted board
2. Not having extra parts, ordering more and having to wait.
3. Not understanding printer.cfg - kept getting error and finally figured out it was due to not commenting out thermistor configuration because I didn't have one in the bed area.
4. Not reading ahead and understanding exactly what I needed to do prior to just trying to do it.
5. Last but not least, rushing through. Like you said, this is time consuming and you do get burned out. This is a marathon, not a sprint. Plan on getting things done in parts. Get it done then stop. Trying to get it done as fast as possible causes mistakes.
Every tech savy individual should built a voron. I self sourced my 2.4 in 2020 and it was a overwhelming experience that brought me in touch with myself like nothing else before 😅
I built my Voron 2.4 350 from a kit by LDO motors. The kit and instructions were excellent and I avoided most of the mistakes you mention. Drag chains and robots have been working fine for decades. You have to use the right wire, correct arrangement and slack, then you will have zero problems. CAN bus is cool too. My kit came with PCB for the stealth burner and preterminated cable to run in the drag chains. Easy. Fun. What’s not to like! ;-)
Its nice to see some good advice in a sea of bad advice.
My two cents as I am in the midst of a Trident build: A couple of 123 blocks and a set of precision round space blocks will dramatically improve a frame build and setting the linear rails. I'm using a faux granite countertop rem for the build surface. A light soft face hammer (emphasis on light) is a help seating frame extrusions in pre-tension. My result was a square frame without the need for tweaking.
The 123 block do make this extremely easy. But I am not sure many who are no familiar with machining will have, or even know what tey are.
I built a Formbot kit for the 2.4 350 which was the equivalent of about US$1000 delivered. I’d say that’s good value - the Moons motors are very smooth and quiet. Frame and fasteners were excellent quality. Heatbed is nice and flat. Even the fans have been OK. The wiring has been good, the Omron probe works well but the printer does have to be pre-heated for about half an hour to get the Z-offset correct. The only fault I’ve had in a year since was the thermistor wiring for the toolhead (the thin white wires broke). I think it’s also worth spending a little extra on a good 5” touchscreen as it makes operating the printer more pleasant. I built it with a Rapido hotend (HF not UHF) which has also been trouble-free.
From someone who build a Switchwire from an Ender 3 I would offer this advice. Check exactly what hardware you have before building. I lucked out and my board, frame and PSU were good, but Creality is known for cheaping out and sometimes substituting parts.
I built a Trident last year (my first printer that wasn't 'take it out of the box and print) and self-sourced using "Parts Kits" from LDO, DFH, and West3D in the states purchased in larger batches (to get free shipping) during sales. I sat down and did the math on that, and it comes out to around what I would have paid for an (at the time) LDO Trident Rev A kit, only I had a hot end and Raspberry Pi.
Just a note on "kits". I've been working with LDO voron kits since their very first batch 1 and let me tell some corrections to the video:
- LDO documentation supplements the Voron manual to give you pretty much all the pointers a newbie needs.
- there is such a thing as "building stock" with the LDO kits, as the documentation has made those decisions and recommends to start 1 way (use induction probe first, get stock firmware working next, print, and then print any mods you want to continue - or not!).
- it's $600 cheaper
Hey. Thanks for sharing. I am considering building on at some point. It does seem to be quite the project. I have a few printers and am just about to convert one of them to klipper in the next few days. It will be my first time so I am a bit nervous. I'm going to do it on the sv06. Once I get comfortable with klipper etc. I will likely build a v02 or or a rook
Sounds like a fun project indeed, keep us posted!
im in a similar place and im think about building a 0.2 in the next couple of months then maybe building a 2.4 early next year if i enjoy iy
Thanks for this!! Im just starting my Voron 2.4 canbus build and im definitly going back to watch your build series!!
I am not a beginner and the Voron is not my first 3D printer in the last 10 years. When I came across the Voron, I thought it would be a good idea to buy all the parts myself. To be honest, this was a stupid idea.
No shop has all the parts. So the shipping costs are very high because many orders have to be placed. Then some parts are not available anywhere. This has led to a constant search for a shop. And it took quite a long time until everything was finally together (almost 3/4 of a year).
The advantage, of course, is that you can choose the quality of the parts yourself and you know what is installed. But today I would recommend buying a kit from LDO and replacing the parts you don't like. So if you want original Hiwin linear rails, you'd better throw away or sell the LDO ones. In the end, this is much cheaper than buying everything by hand.
For what my Voron cost in the end, I could have bought a Raise3D Pro 3. And that would have included a dual extruder...
On the other hand, tinkering was a lot of fun, which you don't have with a ready-made device. 🙂
Thanks for the highlight video. I personally recognise some of these easy to make mistakes on my 0.2 kit build, but many fall away if you have a good kit.
I cant wait to have the opportunity to build a voron 0.2
I think for a first time it’s also a good idea to get pre crimped wires from someone like fabreeko or someone similar. They are crimped and labeled which can help you not fry something and spend precious time trying to figure out what it is. Also could be much easier to get the frame kit while your at it if your sourcing everything and not getting a kit.
Cool video, I self sourced my trident 250 for like 1200$. That includes branded parts and mods like a webcam and different toolhead ect. I recommend you look at partial kits, some vendors sell kits with all the screws, motion ect. This saved me on cost and they give free shipping a lot of the time.
Which kit is it?
@@omtapkir8639 I didnt buy a kit, but vendors like fabreeko, kb3d, and west3d have great parts and partial kits
@@Unscientificallygood advice I'll look at partials
I bought a full LDO kit but had a lot of the same challenges. The biggest build challenge was the variations of wiring ... Especially the bed(two options floating about about where into the Octopus Board to connect the Bed heater). Now that I have things semi-working ... The tuning is not going smoothly
What kinds of issues are you having with tuning?
When I print, as it should, it first Homes just fine, then does QGL, and then it drags the nozzle across the bed ???
Excellent and much thanks for sharing ❤
ROFL, great video, but the neo pixel pads are huge, hell the legs of the neopixel itself are huge. If you have any trouble soldering those, I would suggest you follow a learn to solder tutorial.
The issue you had at the end is what the chains are supposed to prevent, yes?
Those are some quite useful tips. I recently built a Rook 180 and I can relate to quite a lot of the mistakes above like the belt routing.
I switched to CAN after a year or so and approximately 1000 print hrs on my v2. I ended up having a couple broken wires in the cable chains. CAN makes it soooo much simpler to repair a broken wires and to diagnose any issues.
What is can? I'm a Brazilian trying to buy and build a voron 2.4 r2, so I'm new
@@AlexViniciusOC CANBUS (controller area network) commonly found in automobiles today. it is a data transfer protocol that allows micro controllers to talk to each other over a single pair of wires. Essentially you add a tool headboard with a micro controller to your tool head and run a pair of power wires and a pair of communication wires and that is all you need. No more need for 16 wires controlling all of your fans, heater, part cooling, thermistor, probe, etc.
@@MRKTM690smc thank you, that's very interesting! Good job
Extremely useful. I will stick to simpler solutions for a year or two :)
Thank you for your reflections on the project, which can broadly apply to any largish scale task. I can certainly empathise with @DoRC. With age comes a need to keep one's eye on the main game instead of the thrill of the chase.
I have been toying with building a 6x3x3 ft system just for the thrill of it but I am glad I haven't had the time yet. The design has changed significantly as potential uses refine the structure. BTW, I subscribed.
Thank you for your feedback and the subscribe. I certainly agree with your mention of large scale task. As a person who likes to DIY tinker on cars, that has certainly been a re-occuring theme for me lol
Howdy,
Great Video! Lots of great information. Keep up the good work and have fun with your Voron!
~Takuya
Thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing
I've had zero problems with pre cut ldo extrusions but i agree that you shouldn't try cutting you own extrusion without proper gear.
I did cut my own extrusions for my second 3d printer build but i ended up milling the exstrusions in length to ensure that they would be as square as possible when being built.
I sourced my Voron 2.4, too and agree with you 100%. I even bought so much spare parts, It is about 80% through to my first Trident. My wife will kill me... :-D
I didn't just build a Voron, I studied and redesigned it. I have Built a V0 style printer but with 235x235 bed size, which is complete. Current working on a trident style with a 310x310 bed, About 90% designed and built. Just hotend mount and cooling to do. I should have just copied the voron and upscaled to match the bed size, but where is the fun in that. I intend to make it IDEX but the design I'm looking at isn't easy AND for now Building a single extruder is the aim.
I also have G-Swirl on my part cooling fan. 😎
I cut my own frame and had one rail that just wasn't right. Come to find out that one was ever so slightly bowed. I cut a new one and got it all square. I have a small milling machine so getting them square wasn't hard, but it was tedious and if I had to do it over, I would just get a kit. I already had a lot of the parts from other printers like wires, motors, hot ends, bed, screws, pi, etc. so it was cheaper than a kit, but I think I would have been better to keep all that stuff as spare parts.
what filament is that yellow color one?
After watching this video I'm so glad I bought a P1P. I did this as a hobby for years and I was torn between going voron or BL for my first core XY. I think I'm at the point now where I just want things to work so I can concentrate on the design and the enjoyment of the end result of prints. Don't get me wrong I'm sure a lot of people have a lot of fun doing this but weeks of tweaking sounds pretty horrible to me especially when the P1P basically just works.
Thanks for the feedback, having a plug and play printer definitely has advantages!
But it definitely doesn't take "constant" tweaking...
same here. right when I heard $1800 I lost interest, fast. It's just my ignorance that makes me think this way. Maybe the OP can shed some light as to why one would spend this much on a 3D printer just to have to tune it and tinker with it. I come from 5 ender 3's and I now have 3 P1P's and haven't been happier.
@@TripasGaragehaving built it himself is presumably worth the cost to him. 3d printing as a hobby is about the fun of being able to make your own stuff, so it doesn't seem that crazy that people into it would be willing to spend a lot of money on building their own printer, especially since with how big the modding community is with these kinds of projects, you can quickly end up with a machine that is entirely unique to you.
@@TripasGarage1800 is like top of the line. you can build one that will print just as fast at the same quality for 900 bucks it’s all how it’s assembled that determines the printer , honestly from my view where I do it as a hobby and a little side job I’m probably never going to buy a prebuilt printer again lol this is just to much fun and you build a top of the line machine that comes with the knowledge and know how. I’ve learned more about 3D printing with building one voron in a couple weeks than I have the ten years I’ve been messing with 3D printers
I am now struggling with my own thoughts. I have it in my head that I want to build a coreXY printer partly from previously purchased parts, and partly from a few parts bought here and there. Somewhere I feel that the whole concept is flawed, as for some reason it feels both simple and complex at the same time. -> So it might be a mistake to not choose from existing projects when building a printer. :D
I'm working on a corexy printer design for myself now. I have the first year of mechanical engineering under my belt and am adept with Solidworks but man is it a lot of work...
Unless you want to spend at least a month designing, stick with a ready design or just make mods. If you mod enough the design changes significantly as well
build a voron only if you want to build, for the rest of mortals who just wants to print toys, get a bambu A series, or even the later Creality models.
I love my 350 Trident though.
I love these printers and want one but absolutely not about to build it. 😂
Thank you
Thanks!
2:13 than again it depends on how high end you are going with all the parts, if you grab top of the line everything of course you are going to spend that much.
And yes you can get good deals especially if you actually have any other skills or tools, if you are a blank slate that can't do anything then its best just to buy a machine.
2k?
I thought it's around $1k-$1.5k...
Regarding the toolhead I have standard wiring and I didn't have any wires break after 10 months of use.
Print quality was also very good almost right away.
if you dont have time to watch the videos you probably dont have time to build one.
With panels will be Almost price of 2 bambulab x1 😮
Well, i am building a voron to build a voron. basically like lego for grownups.
You can finally get pies again
$1800, i build my pseudo voron for $1300, I remixed most of the parts for 3030 extrusions and had most of them laser cut in 6061 aluminum.
3d printer = Rabbit Hole
I strongly disagree on using canbus instead of just more wires.
I love my chains.
And if you organize em well, replacing a wire or two or even all of them is not a big deal.
All you need is to know what you're doing and the right tool.
Also, high quality wires can last you decades.
The secret is to use really good PTFE wires and not attempting to save a buck.
The whole thing takes less than an hour for an experienced person.
If you're not, take some time to practice crimping and routing.
Canbus is cool, but chains are charming.
As of money thing, you can't spend more than a couple hundred bucks on the while wiring even if you include top grade tools and connectors.
And you can get very decent set including tools for under fifty.
Worst case scenario, get yourself a pre-crimped top grade loom.
Considering the price of everything else, you should not compromise of wiring.
just upgraded my cheap cable chains with igus two weaks ago, just dont wanted to go canbus because my cables where still fine :)
$1,800.00 is cheap. I have been doing a little at a time and I'm around $1,400 and projecting another $1,200. I am going all out... idk
I’m sorry I had to reference TeamFourStar “don’t be cute”
“B**ch I’m adorable”
Ok carry on
DO NOT PUT ELECTRONICS ON ESD BAGS!! THEY ARE ESD BAGS BECAUSE THEY CONDUCT ELECTRICITY!