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Since I installed this hotend I have less than 30hrs of print time on the printer. I have to be honest and say I have not kept up with others or done any further research on the Spider. BTW your comment isn't at all rude. What exactly failed on your HE? Thermistor, heater, or something physical? I ask because now you have me wondering... I could run some prints w/o filament to see if it fails in the first 100hrs or so. Failing within an hour is 100% unacceptable!

@@BuildItBasementthanks:) it was the heating element

@@motionless6449 I'll hook up the Ender and run some custom GCODE to heat and cool the HE over a 24-hour period - I'll let you know what happens! a few dozen 60c to 260c cycles should do it.

100% - *BUT* you will need to make sure they are loose and not terminated at the toolhead. I would also say that once you get the belts run and terminated you do the same treatment and adjust the tension of the belts on either side to ensure equal tension. Great question - Totally understand not wanting to run those belts more than you have to!

@@BuildItBasement Thanks for the quick response. looks like my bottom belt isn't tight enough anyways haha.

@@DYCKnights You'll get a feel for it. I keep my belts "mid" some run loose so they can go faster - others tighter so they get slightly more precision. These belts are pretty long so they will always feel looser than those of the "z" drives.

I love mine - I keep most of my expensive filaments in there. If you plan to use it as a feed you'll fit a few less, but it will fit at least 10 rolls in there with enough room to allow for the five feeding spools!

kb-3d.com/store/kb3d-group-buys/1160-kb3d-group-buy-6-filament-drystoreprint-cabinet.html

Kris added it

I did not. I do recall having to slightly enlarge the cutout areas.

Genius idea!🎉🎉

Assuming you constructed the frame square from the start, that shouldn't be much of an issue. There is always a way to make a tip or suggestion not work the way its intended - extremes will always be there. Under normal and proper construction where you need to minimally adjust your gantry, this has worked for me on three builds. I guess what I would really like to say is that without a decent starting point (before this stage) you'll be fighting a battle no matter the method. You are 100% right if your frame is not true during the build this will not fix all the possible issues. I will also add that if your gantry parts are properly printed and everything is tight it would be difficult to not notice the printer being a parallelogram. Linear rails don't like being askew.

Hey - Jokes aside, it could. - Some people have suggested dryers with shoe dryer inserts. If you needed to dry a bunch of filament quick before storing it for use, it was meant to be funny - but the irony is that it could actually work.

Be a great way to dry a bunch of filament at once, keeping it clear of the food prep areas of the house.

I may have heard of that once or twice. Some one should do a test, my LG doesn't have the feature. It would also be neat to use a dryer that is a heat pump unit...

Good point...

I need an upgrade on my dryer! A lot of folks saying this. I just thought that if you can keep filament and food mostly separated - the better off? The good ole oven does work well, but I cook pizza in there!

Very close. Also very close to a standard DC powered refrigerator. Just configured to dry and not cool.

Take a look at my replies to people - I want people to tell me what they like, what works, and what was a put-off. RUclips videos is yet another hobby in my laundry list of things. I 100% want your input! I love to learn new things and when you create content you often get tunnel vision of the production. I have been learning Resolve this past few months and prior to that I just did all videos live without editing. I'm enjoying learning and I take everything in stride. Your opinion is highly valued and I hope you continue to provided feedback is you decide to watch more of my videos in the future. I'll still be creating technical long-form videos, but I wanted to start and use the skills my developing in these videos that may provide my channel with a wider audience base. If you like, I'd like to know who you feel makes great videos and specifically who has great video intros. You hit many valuable points in your comment! THANKS!

​@@BuildItBasement I think CNC Kitchen's content is excellent for those just interested in the technical details. As for his intro, the visuals are nothing special (had to look it up to remember it) but I remember his intro phrase really well ("Guten tag everybody, I'm Stefan, and welcome to CNC Kitchen"). That said however, there's nothing wrong with a simple intro, and I think it's usually better than a flashy one. If you really want a good intro though I'd say involve your personal skills. Check out the way Alpha Phoenix does it. He didn't use fancy graphics at all and I'd say it's very memorable. Manifest your passion into it with what YOU'RE good at. Ideally not just a print timelapse because pretty much every 3d printing video has one of those. Maybe design or customize a moving print to have your logo on it, such as a jack in the box. Just keep it short. For less serious channels, there's Zack Freedman but he may be a bit insane and vulgar to use as an example. I'll instead move over to general engineering territory and mention William Osman and "I did a thing". They both smoothly integrate skits into their videos. Just be careful that you don't get lost in one-upping yourself. Some changes are purely positive, but other times you could be unwittingly starting down the unsustainable path of trying to make every video better and crazier than the last. It can lead to burnout, and sadly going back to an older calmer style could cause your channel to take a hit that it doesn't recover from. Although this probably isn't something you have to worry about much at this stage (especially since it's a good time to experiment), but it's something to keep in mind. A couple wild videos aren't gonna kill your channel, just be mindful of the expectations you're setting long term and if it's ok to break them.

Well taken from this end of the conversation, and well expressed from your side. I enjoy Zack, but you may be correct... RUclips is as much a hobby to me as the experimentation and analytics are. Feel free to contact me via email if you want to continue the thoughts. I enjoy the comments, they may actually show interactions that help the video grow however emails are often easier for providing details and links. Just an offer. 3D printing and YT are not my day job, I'm actually an RF engineer and Director of Operations for a small company in Maine. Like MANY things in my life, I learn by doing, and doing things is key to learning. As I get older the more I want to do, and in some cases the more I'm able to do. Time is my only real limiting factor, so your provided perspectives are a short-cut in some ways. Thanks again.

@@BuildItBasement Oh, I love Zack myself. He's one of the most skilled creators in hobbyist 3d printing. I just wasn't sure how to relate his content to your calm family-oriented style. Sounds like a cool job by the way! Alright, I've sent you an email.

I agree

Why? Filament is not that different from all the plastic cooking utensils, kids toys and other plastic stuff we have in kitchens. It's not a powder or has high risk of getting into your food, like small ABS Lego pieces for example. Printed parts do have a much higher chance of getting into your food and the porous structure isn't great either because it can host all sorts of ugly.

@@zapl80 No, they are not even remotely similar to plastic cooking utensils, toys and other stuff meant to have human contact. You can't see the chemical makeup by looking at it. Anything that is meant for human contact, especially cooking utensils and toys, are regulated so that only plastics are used that don't have highly toxic monomers , so TPU goes straight out the window. Catalysts and additives are also regulated and must not leech out of the plastic. With filament there are not only almost no rules, but they also have to add colorants, flow modifiers, UV protection and antioxidants etc etc etc. Its a terrible mess and should never be near anything you eat.

@@monster2slayer One example would be PET vs PET-G. I try not to consume glycol... Some filaments are made to be in use with more pronounced human contact, but they are far from all the masses of other plastics - It's a general rule. amzn.to/3Rtkgun - One such filament. Here is a "decent" article about the topic. As will all things including my comments and videos - do your own research and make your own decisions! formlabs.com/blog/guide-to-food-safe-3d-printing/

@@BuildItBasement edit: yeah, that formlabs link you posted basically sums it up. the problem is, even if you manage to buy genuine food grade filament, no one has a food grade printer. you are using PTFE tubing, you have used non-food safe filaments in the past, your grease isn't food grade and so on. Unless you really know what you are doing, and you're printer is built from the ground up to be food grade and only food grade, it isn't food safe.

LOL - I actually cleaned it a couple of weeks ago. Wife was away. I'd share my secrets, but there are already a ton of YT videos on how to clean ovens! Hey - but thanks for noticing my hard work!😁

EIBOS makes some nice products - I maybe I'll get the opportunity to try some at some point. The vacuum pump is a great way to store dried spools. I've used similar items in the past. The limitation is the ability to use the filament while it's in the dry air of the bag. Very cheap, VERY energy efficient! I enjoy these comments - if anything I want to spark conversations and comments so people can learn from each other. Please always feel free to leave a "what I do" on any of my videos! The more we all know, the better we'll all be.

Hopefully it was entertaining as well as educational!

Hi - Not sure why you are seeing blank descriptions. You had me worried so I checked a few this morning and they are all in place. To help you out here is a direct link to the git page with the macro your asking about and some of my configs. These are not updated and should be used to work from, not fully rely on. github.com/kermyb123/3DPrinting/tree/main/UltiBIB%20Configs

No harm in trying. Let me know the before and after!

Yeah, I would like to know as well

In the spring, where I live everything goes from 10%RH to about 70. Being able to dry a dozen rolls quick would be nice! Dry and then into the low power dry box.

@@BuildItBasement I am east coast also, Maryland :) Thanks for another fun video.

Howdy neighbor. I'm in Maine. No worries, over the years a lot of people have a lot of problems that often include filament that isn't as dry as it should be. This is a blanket statement to do your filament if you're having issues. The dryer referenced is just a good design, highly suggested - but not necessarily the only way. I finally took some time to make a fun video, hope it is enjoyed by many. 🎉🎉🎉

@@BuildItBasement Maine humidity has nothing on GA and FL, I grew up in Maine and I don't remember humidity like we get in GA. (or pollen) :)

It's actually for the K1 MAX. amzn.to/3xeyvwe It works. The patterns isn't as pronounced as I would have liked, but it works really well and the print bottoms are smoooooooothh.

Hey - I said message Stefan at the CNC Kitchen! He'd do it if enough people ask! If I had an old microwave I THINK IT WOULD WORK WELL for a first dry. Maybe like 30% power for 15mins?

Great tip! Surprised I'm saying it. But, makes sense!

Kris, I didn't do it for you. I did it for my viewers. Your group buy program puts this dryer at least $300 below retail. I think it's worth the price and then some. If I can find the space, I'll put that money towards another! The community values your business and involvement. Mostly because we all know how much you value the community. 👍

I was doing as a joke and thought - WAIT! this is a big low-temp convection oven. Throw a shower rod and some clamps in and BOOM! Maybe I'll do it? Lets see if people like this video!?

@@BuildItBasement yeah I might try the dryer thing

Mine does that

@@TheOneAndOnlySatan ...Just when you think you have a good dryer... Guess when these die I'll have to keep an eye out for "Shoe Mode". I'm also wondering how well a heat pump dryer would work....

@@BuildItBasement i will try it, but i dont think it will work that great. But lets try!

I honestly don't recall. But many options would allow you to get this same effect. I believe it may have been called "ball bounce" and I turned up the speed as high as I could.

@@BuildItBasement thank you

Glad to help

Thanks. I agree. No one else has mentioned it, but I agree. I stopped using music ducking to settle on just music at a low volume in the background. Maybe I'm just not great at getting those ducking settings tuned in... Any way you slice it, I agree. Big thanks for speaking your mind. I appreciate it!

Feel free! I will say one thing to that... You're only as good as your skills and your tools. I have no skills and my tools are par, at best. LOL Thanks Woody!!! I'm working on some non-printer build videos and I'm going to MRRF soon! Let me know what peaks your interest and who you'd like to see me take a pic with!

The ender 5 is a great starter printer - a little old at this point, but I give Creality a BIG "Thanks" since they spawned a lot of makers in the 3D printing community. Even stock it's a decent printer.

There have been a few others made now, mods of my mod and others, including these from one of the members in my BIB Discord: github.com/Radiotbo3d/SBFI

You bet!

@@BuildItBasement ooooh thats not given for free... I need an ECRF build :)

Tell you what - You get (20) more people in the next (10) days to comment that they want to have me build a ECRF on this videos comments and I'll do it!

Sorry to hear that you're building with me. Slow going! But since you mention that - maybe I can speed up some! Also - feel free to contact me directly via email if you run in to anything you find difficult or "neat". I'm always, all ears!

@@BuildItBasement I really appreciate that you are so available to us for assistance. That is amazing sir. I have gotten ahead and almost finished my build. But always watch your videos and than fix my mistakes. Hahaha😅. Keep up the great work and cant wait to see your next video.

@@acozad1 You may enjoy the work I'm planning with USB. NiteHawk, USB Hub, Beacon. doing some testing -maybe I should make videos of those things too?

@@BuildItBasement I would like to see those videos. I am interested to learn usb over canbus. I am going with CanBus. EBB2209 RP2040 with the voron tap. Senor-less homing. I went with the octopus max ez and using 5160 for xy and 2209 for the z steppers. Have no idea how to work it but its almost done. 🤣

You'll figure it out. For me I have always wondered why the community went to CANBUS over USB. The only real reason I can think of is, CANBUS has been used fir decades in similar use cases. But most of those cases are for industrial use and automotive use. USB offers much higher bandwidth and the ability to connect devices that require increased data bandwidth. CANBUS does have the ability to daisy-chain devices, ending the series with a simple resistor termination. Both run on two wires, USB normally having the need for an additional power and ground. - More to come

Anytime!

Totally agree with you :)

Kinda empty comment - but you're 100% first! You make me smile! lol

maaaan, only cause I was busy working on my zzzzzz

eSun worked just fine. Hatchbox turned out to be, not so great. On the Hatchbox the layer adhesion was fine, however, the parts started breaking across the parts. It was a slow process of swapping out parts as they broke until I finally just replaced them all. I can't speak for the Voron Team, but I would suspect that inconsistency in batches was the biggest issue. That and lower-than-normal temperatures deforming (creep) the material. A good rule/test is to print a 5-10mm "flattened" cube with a m5 hole in it. Once printeedand cooled screw an m5 bolt and nut in at room temperature. Ensure the nut is tight,. Place the part on a heated bed at roughly 50-60 degrees for 10 minutes. Remove the heated part and see how much more you can easily tighten the nut. You should expect some wiggle room, maybe a rotation at most. Just my experience, YMMV.

I'll definitely try this test .. also I mostly printed using a 1.5 year old roll of esun.. only cw2 and cosmetic parts where printed using the new batch of esun .. colour difference between the 2 black rolls I have is slightly visible and prints are more flexible with the new roll .. I might just print the cw2 just in case :) ..thanks a lot for the reply

I always suggest you have at least (1) set of replacement parts for all mech/stressed parts. Good to have them for back-up. I have so many spare parts now... I keep them all in individual ziploc bags for each printer. Much more important if you don't have a good way to print replacement parts, but good either way.

Minor changes. Mounting holes spaced slightly more to accommodate some roll-nuts that needed addition space. Wings slightly longer to recess the front of the idler a bit more from the front of the printer.

Exact notes are: "Added 2mm to the sides to hold the unit further back and added 1.5mm to the spacing between the mounting holes to the M5 roll nuts."

Check your wiring - Sounds like you have your signal wire crossed. Confirm via the diagram for your Tap. Hope that's it! Let me know.

@BuildItBasement I switched the probe and signal wires but now it stays solid red. I thought that even before configuring mainsail the sensor would trip? As I mentioned above, I am following the Voron manual using the default probe wiring and pins. This is my second build but have switched from the inductive probe to tap. I'm stumped.

Check and double check those wires. Are you using CAN? Normally these types of issues can be caused when the ground wire and signal wire are swapped. I too use PG15 for the probe, I use 5V at the tool head - too many issues a while back with 24V use. Voltage and ground can come from anyplace as long as the voltage matches the requirements of your Tap - signal should just be signal. Instead of looking at the LED I would suggest checking what the MCU sees in real time via the console or GUI.

@BuildItBasement no can but I am using a formbot pcb. I used a meter to verify continuity. I'll try running direct and see if that resolves the issue. Thanks for the insight.

github.com/clee/VoronBFI/tree/main/usermods/Tetsu/Symetrical%20BFI

@@BuildItBasementAwesome, thanks! I’ve actually got those printing now, after watching your video.

A W E S O M E - Hey share it back, you can email me @ kerm@builditbasement.com or find me on Discord (BuilditBasement) I would love to try it and maybe show it! It's all about helping each other and learning.