No excuses - I dropped the video at a time that covers all of North America in normal wake hours. If you're asleep or "too busy" that's on you! LOL - Thanks for the support man!
I powered up the pi using the power port, when I heard there is some power regulation and protection if I plug power in there. I didn't crimp connectors on the power supply connections. Looks better and less cluttered. And it looks like the connections were meant for putting a J hook on the wires and screwing them on, might not damage the copper as bad as a crimp. I also don't like connecting any more dissimilar metals than I have to. Crimp it on, then clamp it in seemed like overkill with no benefit. Looks cleaner, no red nubs sticking out. My steppers, from stepper online, didn't have plugs. Got to learn some small, molex connector crimping, because the wires were too long. Thought you labeled the motors wrong,.. oh crap I dislexicated the motor numbers, fortunately they all plug into the same area, since I cut them to length, they still reach easily. Glad I watched this one, thanks for your help.
OV - Long time no hear. Glad all is working well. I agree different metals, in large use I would consider no-ox or another type of oxidation inhiberator. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that most pins are a copper alloy, meaning the chances of oxidation is minimal. You are correct that there is some level of protection on the USB connector to the Pi! It always comes down to neatness, abilities, time, and materials on hand. I would love to have custom plugs and perfect wire lengths all the time, but it's not always in the cards. One last thing about keeping things neat (double edged sword) neat wires are eacy to trace and less prone to issues, but leave you with little room to make repairs if needed. Stay in touch and thanks for the comment!
@@BuildItBasement Yeah, I've been moving along slower than you on this build. Heck, you are already on to building a trident, ha. When you are done, I look forward to your comparison. Which one you like the most and why. Nice weather has slowed me down, I try to get outside work done when it's nice. So I've been hoping for nasty weather, ha. Today it rained. I worry more about galvanic corrosion, with 2 dissimilar metals, than oxidation. Decided to self-source it so there are several parts still left to acquire. I went to the local secondhand store to picked up a cheap ethernet cable and a flip phone charger to cut the wires off to power the Pi. They were nice thick wires maybe 22AWG. Self-sourcing saved me a little on wires but I bought a teflon harness for the stealth burner. I removed over a foot of wire from some of the z steppers and still had enough left to leave a small service loop. I'm doing this in a different order than most, get this underneath stuff done before I set it up straight, run the belts, rails, backers, gantry and bed. I don't have the LDO breakout board so will have to search around for how to wire the stealthburner right to the octopus. I know commenting helps the algorithm for you. Logging some hours on your channel and commenting is the least I can do.
Just keep steel, tin, and aluminum out of reach! Metals close in nobility shouldn't be a concern! Nickle, chrome, gold, silver, titanium and a few others are really safe. Copper sits in the middle.
For the camera setup, a suggestion: Set up a camera that faces you (for the inset). Having two views that are nearly the same is disconcerting. Plus, you don't need the giant BB logo.
They all used to use the 5v supplies, for $20 it's cheap insurance and gives much more room for additional 5v devices. I spent Tuesday night working on my cameras instead of recording!
Thanks for the great video tutorial on wiring! Tip: Open the LDO photos that are check point photos in a new browser window by right clicking on the photo and select open image in new tab. Go to the new tab with the image in it and click on the image to enlarge it at a very good resolution. I've done this many times throughout the build. Also I don't know if it makes any difference but the LDO document shows the connection of the E Stepper as follows: Breakout PCB Cable label (breakout end) Controller Cable label (controller end) E-MOTOR E MOTOR MOTOR6 E STEPPER Motor 2_1 and Motor 2_2 are paired together.
Woody, thanks for the tip on the photos, it wasn't directly apparent. You are correct that the 2_1 and 2_2 are wired in parallel, It is very common for boards to do this on at least (one) of the stepper drivers. I was upset that LDO decided to do the opposite of the Voron manual and one uses 2_1 while the other uses 2_2. As for the rest, it's all addressable in the configuration. We are left with some inconsistencies between the build manual and the LDO manual when you aren't able to follow one to the "T". Certain things just don't need to be changed - LDO making modifications to some of these items - just doesn't make logical sense to me, as someone who has built a couple fo Vorons.
I've been looking forward to watching you get into the wiring and like that you're customising the wiring to keep the mains together. I'm planning on rotating the main power supply around so the cables go straight into the conduit rather than going under the 5V power supply. Of course this could mean some moving of components.
Well... There is no perfect way, so I'm taking what I see from multiple places and adding my own spin! I think it's going well. I have been zzzaappped a few times in my life, so keeping the AC in one tight loction is important to me. Rotating would work well - I was keeping those lines short and.... keeping the A/C in it's corner! Thanks for watching! Leave more comments - I always reply!
@@BuildItBasement Thanks, I have considered the extra wire length also. It might be that the SSR and 5V goes above the 24V which reduces the leads to the bed and Rasp Pi (but of course the supply would be longer).
In this video I can see a wire that wasn’t covered in your previous video. It looks to me to be an earth/ground to the frame. If so any tips for doing that?
SImple process, this is a green wire on my printer. Grounded to the ground Wago and with and eyelet, m8 and hammer or roll run in the frame. Make sure this is tight. You may also want to check for continuity between the ground (earth) Wago and multiple parts of the frame.
@@BuildItBasement I could not figure out why 2 of my motors were acting the same no matter what I changed. I discovered those 2 connected ports were controlled by one stepper driver. QGL never worked because 2 motors were controlled by one driver. It also was difficult assigning the right pins in the printer.cfg file.
Another great video my friend. I’ve got to get my videoing skills to your level. Video editing is overrated. I love how you keep the video going as you work. Keep doing what you do my friend. Watching you build on my lunch break.
@@thepoorboychannel Thanks man! I do spend a fair amount of time pre-setting things, but it's me having fun and fine-tuning. Now I need to work on my live stream screens.
@@BuildItBasement hey if you do a live stream…I’m there! As long as I’m not working myself. Yeah, I figured it takes a lot of forethought and setup to do what you do, and that’s what makes it great.
If 2-1 and 2-2 are locked together does that mean they dance to the same choreography? Seems like the Z steppers would be a good place to use those since they probably run in lockstep anyway, or the gantry wouldn't stay level. Right?
No I would never use them both. It would stop you from being able to level the gantry in a QGL. I believe it's mostly a cheap way for manufacturers to say the have an additional stepper connection on their boards... I'm sure there are some fringe uses, but not all that common.
Great series! Thank you. P.S. Please stop saying "PCB Board". The word "Board" is already in PCB abbrev. Same as CD Disk, LCD Display and IT Technologies ;)
For your FYI, we all have little quirks! (LOL) I'll be careful about how I talk about LED diodes, FM modulation, and the like! Thanks for the comment and constructive notes. I've been on a hiatus for a while, but new videos should be coming soon. Time to eat some Shrimp Scampi (if you don't know that one look up what Scampi means in Italian)
@@BuildItBasement haha! I did not mean any offense, just noted ;) I am in the process of building my Voron and your videos really help! Can't decide BTT Manta M8P + CB1 or BTT Octupus + RaspberryPi =/ Also sourcing a good bed plate is a headache as I am not in the US.
No offense taken. All in good fun friend. Where are you located? I personally like having my MCU and Pi separated so upgrades are possibly easier. I do know folks who have done the Manta with great results.
Get the "average" off your music list. It builds up so loud, it's as loud as your voice at times. Way too loud, like a bunch of repetitious honking over your voice. So annoying at times, I had to pull out the ear bud and use CC. The other tunes weren't so bad but could be turned down. I went back and watched one of your earlier videos and the music was almost non-existent it was nice. Whoever is telling you that you need the music is wrong, it doesn't improve your videos in any way. Right, some of those wires look too long. Any info on what kind of crimps/connectors are used on the steppers so they can be custom made a little shorter? learned a bunch from this video too. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make them.
Oscar - I have changed my music over time and the current videos (last two or three) have much less volume and are more "gentle". I'm going to refer you to KB-3D for a reference (photos) in this reply, many places sell these crips - his photos are just the best I know of... The connectors on steppers tend to be JST-HX for most LDO units, As shown here:kb-3d.com/store/stepper-motors/666-ldo-stepper-motor-high-temp-nema-17-42sth48-2504ah-speedy-power-1651971790697.html The other is a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector, as shown here: kb-3d.com/store/stepper-motors/65-ldo-high-temp-stepper-motor-nema-17-42sth48-1684mah-1639621666242.html You will need a purchase the proper male/female connectors and pins for your needs. As for crimpers, I would suggest these for a person just starting: amzn.to/3MwLiPY And these for a longer term solution, once you know how to properly crimp a wire: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088NQV8Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 There are better units out there, but these are good for the price! No matter what you do - practice! Get extra pins and connectors and some wire ~ 20-26ga and practice before you attack those steppers! Good luck! Let me know if a video would be helpful.
Thanks, again.
No thank you for watching and commenting! Where are you with your build?
Commenting before Brad gets a chance!
Very rude! Still #1
No excuses - I dropped the video at a time that covers all of North America in normal wake hours. If you're asleep or "too busy" that's on you! LOL - Thanks for the support man!
I powered up the pi using the power port, when I heard there is some power regulation and protection if I plug power in there.
I didn't crimp connectors on the power supply connections. Looks better and less cluttered. And it looks like the connections were meant for putting a J hook on the wires and screwing them on, might not damage the copper as bad as a crimp. I also don't like connecting any more dissimilar metals than I have to. Crimp it on, then clamp it in seemed like overkill with no benefit. Looks cleaner, no red nubs sticking out.
My steppers, from stepper online, didn't have plugs. Got to learn some small, molex connector crimping, because the wires were too long. Thought you labeled the motors wrong,.. oh crap I dislexicated the motor numbers, fortunately they all plug into the same area, since I cut them to length, they still reach easily. Glad I watched this one, thanks for your help.
OV - Long time no hear. Glad all is working well. I agree different metals, in large use I would consider no-ox or another type of oxidation inhiberator. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe that most pins are a copper alloy, meaning the chances of oxidation is minimal. You are correct that there is some level of protection on the USB connector to the Pi! It always comes down to neatness, abilities, time, and materials on hand. I would love to have custom plugs and perfect wire lengths all the time, but it's not always in the cards. One last thing about keeping things neat (double edged sword) neat wires are eacy to trace and less prone to issues, but leave you with little room to make repairs if needed. Stay in touch and thanks for the comment!
@@BuildItBasement Yeah, I've been moving along slower than you on this build. Heck, you are already on to building a trident, ha. When you are done, I look forward to your comparison. Which one you like the most and why. Nice weather has slowed me down, I try to get outside work done when it's nice. So I've been hoping for nasty weather, ha. Today it rained.
I worry more about galvanic corrosion, with 2 dissimilar metals, than oxidation.
Decided to self-source it so there are several parts still left to acquire. I went to the local secondhand store to picked up a cheap ethernet cable and a flip phone charger to cut the wires off to power the Pi. They were nice thick wires maybe 22AWG. Self-sourcing saved me a little on wires but I bought a teflon harness for the stealth burner.
I removed over a foot of wire from some of the z steppers and still had enough left to leave a small service loop.
I'm doing this in a different order than most, get this underneath stuff done before I set it up straight, run the belts, rails, backers, gantry and bed.
I don't have the LDO breakout board so will have to search around for how to wire the stealthburner right to the octopus.
I know commenting helps the algorithm for you. Logging some hours on your channel and commenting is the least I can do.
Just keep steel, tin, and aluminum out of reach! Metals close in nobility shouldn't be a concern! Nickle, chrome, gold, silver, titanium and a few others are really safe. Copper sits in the middle.
awesome video! you're cabling is better than mine lol
It's not done yet...
For the camera setup, a suggestion: Set up a camera that faces you (for the inset). Having two views that are nearly the same is disconcerting. Plus, you don't need the giant BB logo.
Work in progress - I appreciate the input! When you are doing videos sometimes you end up with blinders.
Hot glue… the loctite of electrical connections ?😛
So much hot inside power supplies and such. That and Kapton tape!
I like your camera views. I really need to improve mine. Interestingly, I didn't use the 5V power supply. I used it off of the main board.
They all used to use the 5v supplies, for $20 it's cheap insurance and gives much more room for additional 5v devices. I spent Tuesday night working on my cameras instead of recording!
Thanks for the great video tutorial on wiring! Tip: Open the LDO photos that are check point photos in a new browser window by right clicking on the photo and select open image in new tab. Go to the new tab with the image in it and click on the image to enlarge it at a very good resolution. I've done this many times throughout the build.
Also I don't know if it makes any difference but the LDO document shows the connection of the E Stepper as follows:
Breakout PCB Cable label (breakout end) Controller Cable label (controller end)
E-MOTOR E MOTOR MOTOR6 E STEPPER
Motor 2_1 and Motor 2_2 are paired together.
Woody, thanks for the tip on the photos, it wasn't directly apparent. You are correct that the 2_1 and 2_2 are wired in parallel, It is very common for boards to do this on at least (one) of the stepper drivers. I was upset that LDO decided to do the opposite of the Voron manual and one uses 2_1 while the other uses 2_2. As for the rest, it's all addressable in the configuration. We are left with some inconsistencies between the build manual and the LDO manual when you aren't able to follow one to the "T". Certain things just don't need to be changed - LDO making modifications to some of these items - just doesn't make logical sense to me, as someone who has built a couple fo Vorons.
❤🔥
I've been looking forward to watching you get into the wiring and like that you're customising the wiring to keep the mains together. I'm planning on rotating the main power supply around so the cables go straight into the conduit rather than going under the 5V power supply. Of course this could mean some moving of components.
Well... There is no perfect way, so I'm taking what I see from multiple places and adding my own spin! I think it's going well. I have been zzzaappped a few times in my life, so keeping the AC in one tight loction is important to me. Rotating would work well - I was keeping those lines short and.... keeping the A/C in it's corner! Thanks for watching! Leave more comments - I always reply!
@@BuildItBasement Thanks, I have considered the extra wire length also. It might be that the SSR and 5V goes above the 24V which reduces the leads to the bed and Rasp Pi (but of course the supply would be longer).
@@sydeng2868 You'll have to let me know what you land on.
In this video I can see a wire that wasn’t covered in your previous video. It looks to me to be an earth/ground to the frame. If so any tips for doing that?
SImple process, this is a green wire on my printer. Grounded to the ground Wago and with and eyelet, m8 and hammer or roll run in the frame. Make sure this is tight. You may also want to check for continuity between the ground (earth) Wago and multiple parts of the frame.
Great explanation of wiring safely! The connected stepper driver caused me all kinds of trouble on my first build!
Just so I can make sure others know - Can you explain further? -Thanks!
@@BuildItBasement I could not figure out why 2 of my motors were acting the same no matter what I changed. I discovered those 2 connected ports were controlled by one stepper driver. QGL never worked because 2 motors were controlled by one driver. It also was difficult assigning the right pins in the printer.cfg file.
Another great video my friend. I’ve got to get my videoing skills to your level. Video editing is overrated. I love how you keep the video going as you work. Keep doing what you do my friend.
Watching you build on my lunch break.
@@thepoorboychannel Thanks man! I do spend a fair amount of time pre-setting things, but it's me having fun and fine-tuning. Now I need to work on my live stream screens.
@@BuildItBasement hey if you do a live stream…I’m there! As long as I’m not working myself.
Yeah, I figured it takes a lot of forethought and setup to do what you do, and that’s what makes it great.
If 2-1 and 2-2 are locked together does that mean they dance to the same choreography?
Seems like the Z steppers would be a good place to use those since they probably run in lockstep anyway, or the gantry wouldn't stay level. Right?
No I would never use them both. It would stop you from being able to level the gantry in a QGL. I believe it's mostly a cheap way for manufacturers to say the have an additional stepper connection on their boards... I'm sure there are some fringe uses, but not all that common.
@@BuildItBasement oh, that makes sense. Thanks
Is it OK to run a bigger wire like 18g for ssr to btt?
Bigger will not hurt. As long as you can make the wires neat and you can fit proper connectors on those wires.
Oh sweet that's what I did. Thanks for the reply.
@@rasputian2010 Bigger ia almost always "OK", smaller not so much. There are only two considerations. Current and space.
Great series! Thank you.
P.S. Please stop saying "PCB Board". The word "Board" is already in PCB abbrev. Same as CD Disk, LCD Display and IT Technologies ;)
For your FYI, we all have little quirks! (LOL) I'll be careful about how I talk about LED diodes, FM modulation, and the like! Thanks for the comment and constructive notes. I've been on a hiatus for a while, but new videos should be coming soon. Time to eat some Shrimp Scampi (if you don't know that one look up what Scampi means in Italian)
@@BuildItBasement haha! I did not mean any offense, just noted ;)
I am in the process of building my Voron and your videos really help!
Can't decide BTT Manta M8P + CB1 or BTT Octupus + RaspberryPi =/
Also sourcing a good bed plate is a headache as I am not in the US.
No offense taken. All in good fun friend. Where are you located? I personally like having my MCU and Pi separated so upgrades are possibly easier. I do know folks who have done the Manta with great results.
Get the "average" off your music list. It builds up so loud, it's as loud as your voice at times. Way too loud, like a bunch of repetitious honking over your voice. So annoying at times, I had to pull out the ear bud and use CC. The other tunes weren't so bad but could be turned down. I went back and watched one of your earlier videos and the music was almost non-existent it was nice. Whoever is telling you that you need the music is wrong, it doesn't improve your videos in any way. Right, some of those wires look too long. Any info on what kind of crimps/connectors are used on the steppers so they can be custom made a little shorter? learned a bunch from this video too. Thanks for taking the time and effort to make them.
Oscar - I have changed my music over time and the current videos (last two or three) have much less volume and are more "gentle". I'm going to refer you to KB-3D for a reference (photos) in this reply, many places sell these crips - his photos are just the best I know of... The connectors on steppers tend to be JST-HX for most LDO units, As shown here:kb-3d.com/store/stepper-motors/666-ldo-stepper-motor-high-temp-nema-17-42sth48-2504ah-speedy-power-1651971790697.html The other is a Molex Microfit 3.0 connector, as shown here: kb-3d.com/store/stepper-motors/65-ldo-high-temp-stepper-motor-nema-17-42sth48-1684mah-1639621666242.html
You will need a purchase the proper male/female connectors and pins for your needs.
As for crimpers, I would suggest these for a person just starting: amzn.to/3MwLiPY
And these for a longer term solution, once you know how to properly crimp a wire: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088NQV8Z3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
There are better units out there, but these are good for the price! No matter what you do - practice! Get extra pins and connectors and some wire ~ 20-26ga and practice before you attack those steppers! Good luck! Let me know if a video would be helpful.