Hey man, what do you think will have a greater impact on accels/speed and quality? an AWD setup at 24v or the two AB running 48v? I run a vzbot 235 with four ldo super power HT in the gantry so I´m accustomed to the high accels with good quality, and I´m considering building a 350mm Voron 2.4 for pla only but want a fast snappy machine without the vzbot high power budget. Also, if I do run AWD in the Voron that would be 9 steppers, four for the gantry and for z and the extruder one, you know what board could be used cause the btt octopus has only 8 stepper driver slots hum, that´s the one I run in the vzbot, thank´s
I don't yet have any firsthand experience with AWD configurations, so I can't really comment on that. As for 9 motor setups, if you don't want to use a CAN Bus toolhead PCB for your extruder motor, BTT has the Octopus Max EZ that has 10 stepper driver sockets.
@@oldguymeltsplastic thank´s a lot for the response, I didn´t realize that using the can bus board I could bypass the extruder driver, but that is good news, I´ll have a look at the octopus max either way, thank you so much
Short answer is yes. There's a longer answer that someone shared with me a while ago, but I have been told that even a 50W PSU should be plenty for 4 stepper motors. I have never had any motor power issues with this configuration.
running your zmotors at a high run current isn't the best idea. if you get a nozzle crash it will do alot more damage since the motors have more torque.
@@oldguymeltsplastic it can be beneficial having high run current, if you use z hop or have super fast QGL/bed mesh. Personally I prefer the high run current for z. This way I know I won't have any loss of z microsteps.
I am running LDO 2804 Super Power motors at 48V and run_current: 2.8 Don't try this unless you have similar hardware installed in your printer. github.com/OldGuyMeltsPlastic/Maxime
The bed heater on this printer is a 110V model, and so is powered directly from the mains wall power, rather than the printer's own 24V power supply unit.
@Old Guy Melts Plastic right, i saw your ssr, i just don't see where you are signaling the relay from. Not the bed out, i know some use a regular heater output ho0, ho1 etc (no one has ever explained why people do that either, although for a relay signal, i get it) i see you only have the one hooked up. Does that make sense?
@@oldguymeltsplastic also i see you didn't use the standard 110v black, white, green. I was wondering if you were in Europe. Why did you choose those colors on mains?
@Old Guy Melts Plastic OK that makes sense. Im not too familiar with our northern brothers unless it comes to trailer park boys, letterkenny, or shoresy. Where is signal coming from to switch your relay for your bed?
LMAO your channel name is too funny.
Are you happy with the LRS-100-48 after a time of using it ?
Does not shutdown in your use ?
Thank you.
It has proven sufficient to power just the two A and B stepper motors. Everything else is running on 24V.
Hey man, what do you think will have a greater impact on accels/speed and quality? an AWD setup at 24v or the two AB running 48v? I run a vzbot 235 with four ldo super power HT in the gantry so I´m accustomed to the high accels with good quality, and I´m considering building a 350mm Voron 2.4 for pla only but want a fast snappy machine without the vzbot high power budget.
Also, if I do run AWD in the Voron that would be 9 steppers, four for the gantry and for z and the extruder one, you know what board could be used cause the btt octopus has only 8 stepper driver slots hum, that´s the one I run in the vzbot, thank´s
I don't yet have any firsthand experience with AWD configurations, so I can't really comment on that.
As for 9 motor setups, if you don't want to use a CAN Bus toolhead PCB for your extruder motor, BTT has the Octopus Max EZ that has 10 stepper driver sockets.
@@oldguymeltsplastic thank´s a lot for the response, I didn´t realize that using the can bus board I could bypass the extruder driver, but that is good news, I´ll have a look at the octopus max either way, thank you so much
Do the jumpers under the 5160 drivers change? What mode does everything run on, uart, spi, or normal?
I run mine in SPI mode
I run my 5160s in SPI mode, but my 2209s in UART
can a LRS-100-48 power 4 steppers for a AWD system ? or do need to get the meanwell 150 48 or even a higher watts one ?
Short answer is yes. There's a longer answer that someone shared with me a while ago, but I have been told that even a 50W PSU should be plenty for 4 stepper motors. I have never had any motor power issues with this configuration.
@@oldguymeltsplastic this is great so I will go ahead and pick that 100 W 48v meanwell for the future upgrade and some btt tmc5160t pro
running your zmotors at a high run current isn't the best idea.
if you get a nozzle crash it will do alot more damage since the motors have more torque.
There's also not much reason to do so, given how slow Z moves are on this printer.
@@oldguymeltsplastic it can be beneficial having high run current, if you use z hop or have super fast QGL/bed mesh.
Personally I prefer the high run current for z. This way I know I won't have any loss of z microsteps.
Can you share your printer.cfg for the motor settings?
I am running LDO 2804 Super Power motors at 48V and run_current: 2.8
Don't try this unless you have similar hardware installed in your printer.
github.com/OldGuyMeltsPlastic/Maxime
@@oldguymeltsplastic sure, just for reference to see what's possible. I'm still tuning, thx very much.
How are you powering your bed?
The bed heater on this printer is a 110V model, and so is powered directly from the mains wall power, rather than the printer's own 24V power supply unit.
@Old Guy Melts Plastic right, i saw your ssr, i just don't see where you are signaling the relay from. Not the bed out, i know some use a regular heater output ho0, ho1 etc (no one has ever explained why people do that either, although for a relay signal, i get it) i see you only have the one hooked up.
Does that make sense?
@@oldguymeltsplastic also i see you didn't use the standard 110v black, white, green. I was wondering if you were in Europe. Why did you choose those colors on mains?
Those are the wires that shipped with the Formbot kit. I am in Canada.
@Old Guy Melts Plastic OK that makes sense. Im not too familiar with our northern brothers unless it comes to trailer park boys, letterkenny, or shoresy.
Where is signal coming from to switch your relay for your bed?