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This is so, *censored by YT* amazing. I so want!

I'm also getting the DFU Util error for my Octopus 1.1. Any help would be appreciated. Here's some more of the output... dfu-util: Invalid DFU suffix signature dfu-util: A valid DFU suffix will be required in a future dfu-util release!!! dfu-util: No DFU capable USB device available Failed to flash to /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_24004B000F51383438343939-if00: Error running dfu-util If the device is already in bootloader mode it can be flashed with the following command: make flash FLASH_DEVICE=0483:df11 OR make flash FLASH_DEVICE=1209:beba If attempting to flash via 3.3V serial, then use: make serialflash FLASH_DEVICE=/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f446xx_24004B000F51383438343939-if00

Woohoo! Look at it go!

I added a canbus on the skr mini e3 v3 (had to find it on the STM32G0B1RET6 pinout ,it has 2 canbus controllers)

When i connect my knomi and put everything back on and hit power the sb0000 starts smoking... i have the fan voltage set to 24v

Geez can't believe this is the best 4010 blower benchmark I can find and I'm dying to see results for delta... Which fan ended up being your goto?

Has the Dragon Burner met your expectations? Any issues with it?

Beautiful build! Sb cpap sucks however, I had to crank mine to the moon over my other cpap Voron. I tried 3 different sb cpap covers. Now I modified a xol to work with a sb carriage

on the last step i get: dfu-util: No DFU capable USB device available Failed to flash to /dev/serial/by-id/usb-1a86_USB_Serial-if00-port0: Error running dfu-util

Makes noise and vibration not good

What is the cable strain relief mechanism?

Do you know how to setup in klipper the EBB36 V1.2 accelerometer so I can use it for input shaping?

This is an amazing build I think I found my next build. A++ man

MGN12H or 9H was out of stock so I bought Honeybadger linear rails. It’s good too!

So it has 10 motors and run on an SKR Pico? How does it work? It runs tri-z leveling right?

Odd how i have a linux background but yet this still does not flash to my mcu?

I´ve been following your progress, and enjoying it. Any new updates?

Awesome upgrades! I am excited to see how the 2.4 works with the AWD mod. I am currently waffling on building another trident or 2.4

😳

How did you mount the dragon burner on a voron 2.4. The only x carriage mount I saw was for a voron 0.2 or 0.1 with a 9mm linear rail and the rail is on top instead of in the front. I decided to go with the XOL toolhead because I could not find a X mount for the dragon burner.

Any idea if the kinematic bed mount is compatible with edge to edge heater?

aren't there only 35V caps on the octopus? did you upgrade them for those two steppers?

Hey look @0:40 it is me :)

I am not seeing the single piece file (SVG or otherwise) to cut with a laser. Where did you find it? I am building my first voron, and now is the time to get this part installed before I get too deep into the build.

What toolhead are you using?

So many thanks! You just helped me solve a multi-day head scratcher after leaving my Voron idle for a few months.

Thanks for the video. I hadn't heard of it until now. If you didn't want to remove the z motors couldn't you remove the deck panel and access it from the top? Remove the bed, rails and then the deck panel. Just a thought... Syd

thank you, great presentation skills. Now I can tune my printer

Which version of the EMS uses screws on the side like that? That's the only thing I would like to change on mine because the standard version you need to screw in bolts sideways which is obviously difficult when electronics are already in the way. I just got my 2209USB today and will be trying it just so I can have a single cable for toolhead and Beacon. I have only used Mellow canbus boards up til now and they are super easy to setup and update remotely without needing to touch the printer just like my Octopus Max. I hope the 2209USB is the same way.

Thanks for showcasing your layout. Been thinking about upgrading my 2.4 to 48v on the gantry and maybe Z for stealth changer. I haven't researched anything yet re the 48v setup but 100w max out put on the PSU seems a little low for a AWD setup. That's a half amp per motor at max PSU output which you shouldn't do. You'll more likely be running 0.3 to 0.4 per motor which will be similar wattage running the gantry as a dual motor 24v system. I don't see what benefit you will get for the added complexity.

Wow! Very nice machine... I would like to build one too. But do you think Stealthchanger or Tapchanger is better for toolchanging?

What color/brand is the pink filament?

Amazing

Just had this issue pop up today on my Voron 2.4 I have a Noctua fan cooling the Pi also. I will test this, as the only usb devices connected when the error occured was the Octopus mainboard and the Beacon. Funnily enough this is the first time with this issue for the last couple of years with this printer. Only yesterday I ran a second 5V connection from the Octopus to the Pi as it was having undervolt issues for the last year or so. But never an aborted print. According to the Klippy log the Beacon MCU is the one that the communication is lost to, funnily the print in question failed twice and even at the exact same point in the gcode (skirt before the first layer). Very weird... Was the issue tracable to different MCU as your video suggests or was it a specific MCU that caused the issue?

That bay looks great. I've got some sb2209 can stuff I've yet to use and thinking it may be wise to stay with can for myself right now anyways. Just did my second can conversion today

surprised you're going with the OG Skirt design.

Monolith gantry?

Just wondering: why not have a multiboard rather than just hexagon holes where you have to put something behind them to connect stuff to it?

Heh. That was unexpected, and you absolutely had my attention until the very end. Nice!

Looks like a gridfinity answer to a question nobody asked. I'm out.

Love it, very clean setup 👌

Hi, I like the way the LED strips are on, where can I get the stl? Thank you

I have a Trident with inverted electronics. I'm wanting to build a 2.4 next and I'm paying close attention to your electronics bay.

Keep up the great work sir.

I hope the USB options for toolhead boards turn out well. There have been a bunch of posts about the LDO version having problems. My canbus' are working ok but updating them is a real pain and I'm sick of some of the bugs that keep showing up on them in klipper. I have a nitehawk sitting here for the next time I have to mess with them.

its like riding a bike! glad to see you producing vids again! learn alot from them!

Love the concept. Curious to see how much flex there is once it's mounted in the frame.

Those are some fancy electronics 👀 and RGB floor lights too💯 Should maybe also considder giving my electronics a remake 😅

Doing a rebuild on my Trident 250 and will use FT EMS this time to. Nice video :)

Nice work. Looking into this for my 2.4 as well.