How to Write Your FIRST Klipper Macro - Nozzle Scrubber!
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- LET'S MAKE A MACRO in Klipper!
In this short video, I go over a first run and mildly tested Klipper macro for a nozzle scrubber on my Voron 2.4 R2 that I wrote. I go over the parts in non-complicated easy-to-learn terms and show you what is in the code. By the end, you should be able to copy this code and make minor mods to it to use with your printer.
Warning - this is a gateway macro, your imagination is all you need to do nearly anything with your printer!
My GIt with the files used in the video:
github.com/ker...
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My gosh this is good. I'm not only speaking of your nozzle cleaning macro, but the education you give to us newbies concerning Klipper and macros. I'm not a smart guy but get tired of folks glossing over what to do with a .cfg macro. Um, if you've been doing this for a while please tell others (like me), who know nothing, all of the steps needed to actually use the .cfg files. You sir have just taught me more in a few short minutes than the days I've been trying to learn Klippy from others. You so rock.
Great to hear! I've been dealing with some illness and having trouble staying focused on producing videos. Your message and other like it are what makes it worth the while. I VERY much appreciate it! You rock more!
@@BuildItBasement OK, on my journey of adding/changing stuff into the .cfg files, I'm still a bit too uneducated to feel good about pasting stuff in, that others say works. Do you have a way we can communicate more directly? And I've no issue with buying lotsa coffee for the education. NO is fine as I'm sure I can figure it out. TYVM
@@Pridanc-oj4ot You can join the BIB Discord - here: discord.gg/Ra4qWRc5
That was extremely helpful! I resolved a couple other issues I had because of what I learned here. Thank you
Happy to help! Also, interested is what kind of issues you had. Share if you like, I may be able to do more subject related videos to help you help others! Thanks for watching
I've taken your nozzle macro from github and modified the movement commands slightly where it zigzags back and forth over my trimmed silicone basting brush. Works good even though I don't have a lot of margin for Y movement in the back of my Trident. Also eliminated the Z movement from the scrub since I have the brush and purge bucket affixed to the back Z extrusion instead of the bed. This will allow me in the future to scrub the nozzle mid print(filament swap) without moving the bed.
Thanks for providing a jumping off point with your code.
A W E S O M E - Hey share it back, you can email me @ kerm@builditbasement.com or find me on Discord (BuilditBasement) I would love to try it and maybe show it! It's all about helping each other and learning.
WooHoo another great instructional video with clear explanations! Didn't see the macro file listed in your github repository. Do they have a delay for posting when you submit a new entry? I need to set up a github soon and share some of the 3D designs I'm creating or remixing from other designs.
Glad it was helpful!
Shouldn't the nozzle cleaning be done with the nozzle at temp? How would one go about setting this up with the nozzle at temp to clean it? Or does it not matter
Good question and 100% yes. My config cleans the nozzle at 150 degrees first because you can't Z home or probe with a tap with the nozzle above ~150. Once that's all done the printer does a secondary cleaning at the end right before the print, this cleaning starts with a bucket purge and ends with awie on the brush to make sure there is not "dribbles". To get the print temp it needs to be stored as a temporary verible, these are in the code as:
print_start HOTEND=[first_layer_temperature] BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature] - or something simular in your code start, then you can call on these things in your macros.
Teaching me stuff. Keep ‘em coming.
Hi, great job and I like you videos! One question, can you share the link to the brush hold that is in your video? Thaks
Hi there! It was in a prior video in this series - but here ya go! github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Mandalaroseworks/BedPan
Do I need to use the F-command anytime I need movement? I'm trying to modify my end_print macro, and it just parks right on top of the print and melts into it when the job is done, even though I input a location to park the head and the bed.
No. But. There are two trains of thought on speed commands. One says that you set it and forget it. The problem is that speeds tend to stay at what you set them at until a new speed setting sets them to a speed. I prefer black and white, I want this speed now. I would see if your Gcode is setting the speed to 0, it would be a little odd, but would explain the no movement. A better option may be to call on the Home X/Y macro after you raise your Z by around 5-10mm. Many options.
Thank you very much.. excellent work... but I would like to give you a small suggestion regarding the videos you make. Can you speak a little slower and calmer in your videos? And if you don't go too far beyond the relevant topic; This training would be much better for those who, like us, are not native speakers of English and use subtitle translation and follow your videos. Because while following the subtitles, we need to perceive and not see where you are going and what you are explaining on the files... Thank you again for the valuable information you provided and your efforts.
I agree. I get way too excited! Making videos is a hobby along with the 3D printers. I'm trying to get better and I thank you for the notes. I will do my best to slow down.
Brass brush can ruin the nozzle, especially brass ones. Why not use a silicone one?
True - over a long period, true. It all depends on the printed materials and priorities. I personally rather scrub the nozzle than wipe it. If a nozzle gets damage over time, I replace it. Silicon does a great job, like a sponge. I just prefer to brush!
Must home axis first (at start of print ,print tool head keep crashing to the endstop)this is a Ender 6 machine home at the back right.
I'm going to look at your post tonight and see if I see anything off - Sorry for the delay.
What about a custom cancel macro? I figured out how to make mine park in the corner but it is using the pause park settings and not disabling the motors and everything. Can you do the same thing for any custom macro just like you did with this nozzle clean macro?
If I'm reading your question correctly, yes you can modify nearly any macro, or make your own.
hey kerm, Which video shows the poop bucket and the magnetic wagu covers for power under the bed.
Mostly in this one... ruclips.net/video/FwP0lNAYhiA/видео.html
BiB, any thoughts or comparisons on brass vs silicone nozzle scrubbers. I have brass on 2 printers and obviously silicone on P1P, considering switching to silicone on all.
You know - I have not tried a silicone scrubber. The benefit would be a "more gentile" scrub for nozzles with coatings. The drawback is that silicone DOES have a high heat tolerance, but it's not crazy high. I would say that if you mostly print PLA, PETG silicone would be a great choice (untested by me). If you are printing with some materials that require high temps (PC, PEEK) I would consider staying with a brass brush. This does make me think that someone should come up with a open cubic silicone "brush" so we can still clean out nozzles in both x and y. Also, an easy to swap out unit that would allow a user to change between the brass and silicone between pints would be interesting! ALWAYS ROOM FOR IMPROVMENT! Thanks for raising the question that gets my mind going!
@@BuildItBasement I have to do more research but I was worried when I saw some pictures about nozzles damaged with aparent brass scrubbers. Maybe they were cheap coated steel brushes, but don't wanted to be taking chances on expensive obsidian nozzles.The other option is just only use the scrubber on the Voron with TAP, (Dragon Hotend) since it's not really needed on the other machines with a BLTouch and the Omicron sensor.
You, my friend, are 100% right. a lot of nozzles are now brass with coatings. Give me a brass nozzle for most stuff and a true steel type for working with materials that need it. I think that all coated nozzles are prone to fail with time. If not no other reason, expansion and contraction as it heats up to 2-300 degrees and back down to 20-30. Anything heated like that with a coating will eventually have issues.
How do I do this when I barely have enough travel room for the brush on my 350mm (2.4) and have the scoot the bed forward. If I do that then my 350y end stop switch will be off from the edge of my bed and 350mmY will be short of the front of my bed?
Please feel free to send me an email with a photo and more details - happy to help. Yes, this purge bucket does make you lose about 2-3cm of usable X, but it shouldn't change anything with the end stops. kerm@builditbasement.com
Awesome brother
I'm proud of my scrubbing technique! LOL - Hey, I hit you up on the Discord about a Klipper Screen issue. In the end, I had to disable video acceleration (Pi4) so I could finally get my screen rotated. It was a pain. Going live this weekend maybe I'll see you there! Be nice to see some more content from you!?
@@BuildItBasement I’m going to see if can do a live stream tomorrow
@@GoldenJaguar3D Count me in!
is the stl files for the scrubber holder available?
Its a Rama Design: github.com/Ramalama2/Voron-2-Mods/tree/main/Mandalaroseworks - Keep the questions and comments coming!
Good day sir I just install klipper and I dont know what to do next so I cant print what should I do next?
Have you installed Klipper or configured it?
@@BuildItBasement oh no not yet I have a difficulty in doing that cause every tutorials doesn't work on me so sorry to tell that hehehe
I suggest you use Kiauh. github.com/dw-0/kiauh
Thanks!
You're welcome!
Must home axis first:how do I resolve this??
G28 before anything else.
@@BuildItBasement this is what I am using (G90,m83,m104,m190,m109,G28,G92,
@builditbasement this is what I think is happening the machine start the print at the back right were it home that’s why it crashes to endstop
@@skyrim4713 if you turn off the motors and slowly move the print head to center, then start a print - what happens?
How do you resolve extrude min temp..
Resolve? You can adjust the extruder's min temp (usually) in the printer.cfg file - Under the "Extruder Section", look for: min_temp= XXX. Normally this is set to around 170 degrees, any reason you want it lower?
@@BuildItBasement wasn’t sure what to set it at.thanks for your help.
No worries - Just don't drop it too low, it'll cause you issues with your extruder trying to push plastic when its not melted!