for higher chamber temps (if you want them) you can also do the following mods: - use "THE FILTER" instead of nevermore (blows air along the bed instead of out your door) - add two more bed fans - additional chamber insulation with alu insulation foil
10:15, you can make a klipper macro that does that for you. You can even make one that heats up the nozzle first, and then retracts the filament automatically.
I replaced the brush with the Bambu wiper. Works great. Best mods for me so far are Tap+CAN bus, Chamber heater and ERCF. I’m using Bambu hotend now too. I own a X1C and this reduce my spare parts and they are cheap and the heat up time is pretty fast.
Man that was an awesome video. I've been through your shoes with all of those upgrades and I wish I would have had some of these explanations before. I don't have a voron but I have a Mercury one.
Great video! Really like the mods you chose, youve convinced me to pull the trigger on the rapido. I too have had a nightmare with my top layers with my revo.Look forward to watching your future vids!
I don't have a Voron yet but I have been looking at the stiffness issue. My plan is to reinforce the mechanical connection between the frame and the sheets. I plan to use metal cam levers to clamp the sheet tightly to the frame. I also plan to replace the double doors with a single sheet that clamps to the frame. Slightly less convenient to access but OK. I also plan to experiment with tuned damping resonators located on the head.
I built the 350 too, r2.4 Right from the very first day my voron has a sherpa mini setup on its stealthburner, it has its own powered chamber heater and fan, nevermore, filament sensor i made, an auto fan exhaust to lower temps if they go over where i want em, cnc tap, dragon ceramic hotend, chamber lighting and control for all my lights inside. Honestly... Best printer ive ever used. The sherpa mini is insane, it all heats up super fast, and is insanely clean printing and can do ABS up to 250mm/s without losing extruder accuracy. Even a volcano starts to screw up around 300 by AROUND 10 percent. My first upgrades will be a custom full set of 5 more extruder and hotend toolheads it can switch to on the fly for multicolor printing and multimaterial. 😊 I WANT the CF parts kit... The full one, but omg man... Convincing the wife is not gonna be ez. If you want a chamber heater just buy one of the little 200-500 watt AC heaters with 24v fan on amazon for like 30 bucks, get another ssr, same model one you have for the bed is fine and theyre like 10-20, though id get heatsinks for both of them because thatll let them run at full amperage instead of 0.4. (its a huge heating speed difference, worth it). A chamber heater is 100% necessary for abs part strength and quality, i dont run any of my printers without chamber control anymore, its so useful!
Cool! So, do you plan on designing some sort of quick swap system to switch out the toolheads manually, or is it gonna be a full-blown tool changer like the prusa XL?
I know I'm pretty late to the party on this one. I built myself a very similar Voron (2.4 r2 350mm). I also have a cat. I print mostly in ABS, and heat soak times aren't fun for a large volume printer. I folded a blanket the depth of the printer and draped it over the top and both sides. Helps the chamber heat up quicker and stay that hot for longer, while also keeping my cat happy. Stick something across the middle of the panel that spans to each side though, I ended up with a bit of warping in my top panel, and my cat isn't that fat.
Very thorough explanation of your mods evolution. I've always questioned the sensorless homing process repeatability. One idea I had was to still use prox or reed switched during homing macro only as a speed shift to then slow the axis near the end of travel to improve sensorless repeatability. Another thing that always seemed questionable was placing the Y-axis switch on the moving axis, bouncing it off another moving axis.
This is awesome I'm planning almost the exact same tool head mods. Did you get hextrudort with large gears or small? Also what cable did you use for can bus? Thanks
I got the CNC Hextrudort that comes with the 8 tooth moons motor. For the cable it was actually the BTT CAN Bus cable for the Stealthburner CAN board. They gave it to me when they provided the knomi for review. Technically that cable already has a connector but it's not compatible with the EEB36 so I had to cut it and crimp a new connector. Good cable though!
It sounds like a weird thing to add, but aluminum extrusion dust protectors are a nice easy mod. They keep the channels clean and make the printer look a bit nicer if you have a matching color.
i'll be waiting for the bracing video for sure, may i ask what speeds did you reach so far? also do you think the mantis toolhead ( XOL tool head ) is necessary if you print at average speeds like upto 500mm/s and less with 8000 accel and less?
Necessary? No. However, a big part of why I switched is that i found the cooling of the stealthburner to be sub-par at those higher speeds. XOL does a much better job at cooling. To be honest, I rarely run faster than 300 mm/s with 5K accel unless I'm going for a speed benchy, or I'm printing something pretty big(which i am planning on soon)
I love your videos and style! I am currently in the process of trying to replace my toolhead on my Sovol SV08 as its damaged, This printer is a Voron 2.4 heavily inspried design. I am currently looking at the XOL toolhead but I am so lost in what extruder and hotend to purchase, I print mainly PETG>ABS>ASA>PLA>TPU I have heard some rumbling about the orbiter v2 not being so hot with TPU so im a bit torn on that one since the orbiter has that awesome filament sensor. I am also torn between the revo and rapido hotends, the revo seems really nice but I am thinking flow rates are probably lower than the rapido. I wanted to get a nice nozzle for whatever hotend I get and I typically use .4mm, what is interesting is it seems the diamondback nozzles dont exist for the rapido but maybe it uses normal volcano nozzles? Idk if I even really need more flow as I have never printed beyond .4mm and have stock heads on most of my printers. Thanks again for the excellent videos! Oh last thing, the Sovol SV08 uses USB to its toolhead board so I am looking to probably keep using usb on a new toolhead board, is there any compelling reason you can think of why CAN would be worth the switch, USB also only uses 4 cables. Thanks!
I agree the XOL toolhead is a complete PIA to build, esp with the tiny heatset inserts needing to be set in at specific angles. After multiple failures, I eventually learned an easier way. Screw the insert onto a long 2.0 or 2.5 screw, run a lighter over the insert on the screw, and then gently push in the screw as far as the heat will allow. Usually this won’t be all the way (unless I blacken my insert). Then leave the screw in until it cools completely. Then I come back, remove the screws, and use the soldering iron insert tool for the final sink-to-the-surface without having to worry about the angle. Sounds like too many extra steps- but saved me from ruining any more XOL toolhead prints. And there were SO many….😂
For the CANbus cable, do the google's for "Cable Gland for 3D printers." Will help keep cable out of the way. Some use piano wire of filament to help it stay up if it's misbehaving too much. I can't go back to swapping hot nozzles. Thankfully, E3D released the Revo Voron HF that matches Rapido flowrates. At this point though, I'm waiting to see the Voron Phoenix, and hopefully smaller than 600x600 models.
very nice wrap up, thx for sharing your experience. I recently added the CNC V2 tap version with can bus and found myself having some little issues with the tap detection until i let the magnet holders on the tap a little bit loose. For the can bus apparently running the provided cable through the dragchains did dammage it in less than 2 month and i allready had to replace it one... I Was looking into the XOL but as i am currently using a modified version of the SB (integrating mods for filametrix filament cutter and some additional filament sensors ) I'm not really sure about changing the toolhead as i struggled to get this one to work properly ^^. Keep us posted about your mods, i am really looking forward to you testing out the mods i don't have the time to implement ;)
One thing you can do for the floppy canbus cable, is to attach either some nylon filament, or 0.8mm spring steel wire (with a zip tie or something) to give it some rigidity
Thank You for the video. You're V2.4 is definitely something you should be proud of. It's very nice looking and very clean. I won't say endstops aren't better than sensorless homing. But I did find it a little silly that you didn't just get a piano wire and support your umbilical instead of switching back to endstops. My Mercury 1.1 350x350x400 has sensorless homing with a klicky probe and it works flawlessly and has for months without a single issue. I used to hate sensorless homing back in the day when my BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo was the hottest affordable board on the market and everyone was running Marlin. But since switching all of my printers over to Klipper and diving into sensorless again with the appropriate macro's to lower motor power during homing - I have a whole new view of it. Looking forward to seeing what you have planned for Knomi. The most useless piece of hardware on a printer. But it looks cool and looks matter. Mind you - I'll never own one. Most likely.
Good video! A few more mods to consider, because…..why stop now? 😊 * Clicky clack door, because, you use the door more often than you think and…drool, now you can slam it in a satisfying way. * 48V on X/Y…nearly doubles torque, so faster acceleration so small perimeters print significantly faster dramatically improving print time without sacrificing quality * AWD…adds in additional steppers for XY and effectively halves the belt lengths.
Great Video, enjoyed the watch just a few things I would add : the nevermore is fine but "the filter" on printables heats my 350 to 50 Celsius in 25 minutes, definitely worth a look as for sensor-less, its excellent and would recommend it to anyone, you really need to take your time tuning it however, and your skepticism is understandable and the CNC chaotic lab V2 is a tough one, they had a ton of issues with V1 and the early V2's, I've heard its gotten better but would still recommend the Vitali or mellow CNC tap's over it any day. thanks!
Nice video, but please please get a better filter for printing filament like ABS if your cats tend to sit near or much worse *on top* of your printer. That tiny Nevermore is not anything like enough, I’d not let them near the thing or even in the same room despite how much they probably like the heat. There’s just so many dangers that it’s not worth it. Those VOCs are cumulative so you won’t get any warning.
there are HF nozzles for for the Revo, and depending on the R2 you should have the 60w heater too. Vorons are not designed for active chamber heating, very big no no topic in the discord even LOL. If you really want to get chamber temps up, its better to put insulated panels on, as that bed is more then enough to heat the chamber, just acrylic panels suck at heat retention. Oh and do tweak the printer.cfg file under bed heater, the LDO config by default puts bed power at 60% (0.6), you can crank it up to 1.0 for full power to heat up faster. It will also take the full 750 watts when doing so, just keep that in mind so you don't trip a breaker during warm up LOL. I have no issues printing ASA and never have bothered with heatsoaking the chamber, just having the enclosure is enough to make ASA print without warping. Do note though that you will want a hotter bed then what ASA asks for with that PEI bed. Orca Slicer has Voron ASA profile set for a bed of 105, I upped to 115 for first layer and 110 for the rest, it stuck down with no issues at all, no warping no need for brims.
There's a reason why LDO has the bed power at 60% in their config. If you run the bed heater at too high a power level, over time it will warp the bed. The rule of thumb is 0.4 watts / cm^2. The second is the SSR included with the LDO kit may not be rated for the current the bed draws at 100% power. You should check both those things before increasing the value. IIRC the heater on the LDO 350mm kit is 750 watts. If you do the math, 0.4 watts / cm^2 works out to 504 watts, which is about 65% of full power (750 watts). I don't have the SSR ratings in front of me, but it's even more important to check that.
Love the video, i have a Voron V0 running the EBB36 can. And i have a PG7 cable gland to keep the can cable up a bit better (i know the V0 is way smaller) there is a mod i seen where you have a pianowire helping to keep the can cable up. And MandicReally here on youtube and Thangs have som really nice can mods. Keep up the good work. And if you want to go the heated chamber route, FrankenVoron/Doomcube, have a look. Because entropy is not our friend at all. Best wished from Sweden
I would not recommend to go with chaoticlab cf gantry. It's not so lightweight as it seems. With all aluminium parts, x-beam would weight 100-120g (i don't remember exactly) snd it actually not very rigid. You can add few more rail mounts, but... then that looses the point in terms of weight. Joints are not rigid as well. Two thin cf plates on alu standoffs. What could go wrong... It also pretty tricky to assemble. I would recomend to go with alu beam and alu joints. Elite Machined ultralight beam for example. Or you can buy beam and joints separate. For350 build you want as much rigidity as you can take. Any joint mod will fall in between 40-45g wight but alu joint will be much more rigid and precise
there is also klicky-00, by the same person who made XOL, it was also originally designed for xol, it is a klicky style nozzle based probe, that also gets docked away, and dosent F up inputshaper with the added weight and loose toolhead
I have been on a Voron 2.4 journey as well. it was supposed to be my learn 3d printing printer while i waited for my forever delayed Prusa XL. Mine was a 2.4 r1, my first upgrade was to go Stealthburner w/ a Slice Magnum and ebb36 before i knew the drama with slice. Then i went a printed tap and sb2209 with an octopus max ez. Then i got my prusa and have been kind of putting exotic stuff in the voron… My printed tap was never great so i tried the beacon which so far has been nice though is not as good at being an emergency z end stop. I will say CL stuff has been great and i am almost done with the upgrading to the CF gantry though i had already upgraded my x gantry to a machined aluminum one so i hybridized the CF gantry kit with it and CL’s tool free tensioning on all axises. I’m trying the Galileo 2 too though i like you am not in love with the stealthburner part of me is at best neutral about it and would almost prefer one of the newer fully integrated designs like the orbiter v3.
I would like a bit more Info on why your sensorless homing wasn't working.. so long as your belts are tensioner appropriately and your sense value is tuned, it's pretty reliable..
It was mostly the floppy cable, actually. When it flopped around, it could cause a false trigger. So now, i could probably be fine with it now, but I already added the switches back in, so whatever.
Sensorless homing if setup properly just works. Your cables and bowden should not be able to be kinked and as such need to be looked at. As for carbon fibre and adding a chamber heater. I would highly recommend doing a double take! Higher temps will soften the carbon fibre making it a waste of money in my opinion. All aluminum would be a better choice. Love the vid. Tha k's for sharing
Hey, great video! My Voron is almost an identical copy of yours with the exact same mods (hextrudort, rapido, xol2, canbus, klicky, etc). Have you had any issues with your canbus board overheating with longer ABS (enclosed) prints? I installed bed fans but can't even run them without my canbus board overheating, so I don't even bother turning them on anymore.
Not yet, but my longest abs print since the upgrades has only been about 4 hours. Did you install the heatsink on the MCU of the can bus board? Might help if you haven't
Yes I did, I also installed one on the driver itself. Since then I have lowered my extruder current and that might have been enough to fix it. I haven't had any long enclosed prints since then.@@TommyBee456
I think the Voron team don't reccomend adding a chamber heater just because they can be a bit dangerous. I have seen some people do the bed fans mod to draw in the cooler air from the chamber and force it under the bed to be heated up. That seems to be the most common way to get the big printers to heat the chamber faster. I think for speed increases you could consider a light weight X beam, I think there's a few options like a skeletonised alumninium beam or a carbon fiber beam.
I just followed the Klipper documentation, which does have a part where you can set motor current. Maybe I was too quick to revert sensorless homing as I know it can work fine, but it was no big deal to go back to physical endstops when I moved the Z chain.
never follow the klipper documentation for this, ive learned the hard way that their documentation for proper sensorless is just BS... i used help of people who did sucessfully run sensorless, and good video guides that dont reference it..., my printer now homes perfect, lowers the current when homing, ups it after, dosent Umpf into the endstops ( which was fixed by going higher speed for homing, unlike documentation saying GO LOW...) and especially more accurate and repeatable.. im running 75mm/s homing speed, and tuned sensitivity for that, and my printer just taps the back, you wont even know its sensorless @@TommyBee456
I used the ones included in this kit. I think they were made by honeybadger? www.fabreeko.com/products/xol-2-toolhead-by-armchair-engineering?variant=44154053329151
v2.4R2 microphone Sensorless homing is awesome. I'm converting all mine to sensorless. Too many problems with the wires and the actual clicker. It is accurate. It is better. You didn't do it correctly, obviously. Plenty of people have no issue with sensorless, but they know what this printer is actually called.
I'm pretty sure Xol is pronounced like the name, not spelled out lol. Archetype is a nice toolhead mod that is made by some of the same people (although its not compatible with tap). Also, I had the same issues with sensorless homing and people seem to think I'm crazy for going back to physical end stops so good to see I'm not alone with that lol. I've been using the chaotic lab carbon fiber XY joints and X axis tube for ~7 months and they have held up well.
Can't say I prefer one over the other because I have never tried the Galileo 2 but I still would probably assume that is a great extruder. It seems we are at a great time in 3d printing where is kind of doesn't matter what extruder you go with, they all seem to be great. I want to build "The 100" 3d printer soon so maybe Ill put a Galileo 2 on that :)
Hello Tommy, It's my turn with the chamber heater I think I have a solution for you that you'll like I need a few more days to finish my design, I've spent many hours myself deciding where to put the thing. And I came up with a great solution.
I was going to look into the beefy upgrades if I do the carbon fiber motion system parts. That being said, I should print them now just in case the stock ones give up sometime soon :)
you decided to go for a lighter toolhead but also decided to get the heaviest tap on market???? hint... there is a carbon fiber cnc tap on ali.. i got it - way lighter (cause it also uses small mgn7 instead of the thicc 9)
Ah yes watchin other people do Voron mods instead of fixing mine... For frame bracing i bolted in some printed VZ frame braces into the top concerns, the difference for input shaper is marginal, but they do prevent my top extrusions form twisting out of alignment when using the carry handles a lot.
I just can't bring myself to build this printer since it wastes 4 steppers for the Z axis and X/Y only get 1 stepper each... with a long belt path especially a 350mm volume this will kill top end performance. The 2.4 is not a high performance printer IMO it's more gimmicky than practical. The frame is also kinda flimsy compared to something like a RatRig. If I was to build a Voron printer I'd go with the Trident.
wastes 4 steppers for the Z axis = no lead screws to mess with the Z axis also means that the internal space is utilized to a maximum fixed bed means AC wiring mains dont move, and the center of gravity is lower will kill top end performance = my 2.4 does 18k accels, stock build flimsy frame? really? its 2020 aluminum, its perfectly fine.
@@sebb4269 I'm glad you're happy with it but I look for different features for my machine. I think something like a RatRig is a better fit for my needs.
5:49 As of yesterday (6/19/24), the XOL toolhead has been revised with simplified parts and they've removed the M2 and M2.5 heatset inserts! 🔥
I edited the timestamp, which unpinned this comment. whoops. sorry, didn't stop to think if that would break the pin lol
@@miserablepile fixed lol
Man.... thanks for the support!!
Thank you for all that you do!
for higher chamber temps (if you want them) you can also do the following mods:
- use "THE FILTER" instead of nevermore (blows air along the bed instead of out your door)
- add two more bed fans
- additional chamber insulation with alu insulation foil
Printer of Theseus
10:15, you can make a klipper macro that does that for you. You can even make one that heats up the nozzle first, and then retracts the filament automatically.
Also if using mainsail add the 100mm length and 15mm speed to setting and it will be so much easier to retract and extrude as i do now
Cool! Yea, I just use retract commands when im doing a color change mid print. Maybe I'll implement some sort of macro.
I replaced the brush with the Bambu wiper. Works great.
Best mods for me so far are Tap+CAN bus, Chamber heater and ERCF.
I’m using Bambu hotend now too. I own a X1C and this reduce my spare parts and they are cheap and the heat up time is pretty fast.
Man that was an awesome video. I've been through your shoes with all of those upgrades and I wish I would have had some of these explanations before. I don't have a voron but I have a Mercury one.
Great video! Really like the mods you chose, youve convinced me to pull the trigger on the rapido. I too have had a nightmare with my top layers with my revo.Look forward to watching your future vids!
The microphone thing made me subscribe lmao nice work
I don't have a Voron yet but I have been looking at the stiffness issue. My plan is to reinforce the mechanical connection between the frame and the sheets. I plan to use metal cam levers to clamp the sheet tightly to the frame. I also plan to replace the double doors with a single sheet that clamps to the frame. Slightly less convenient to access but OK. I also plan to experiment with tuned damping resonators located on the head.
I built the 350 too, r2.4
Right from the very first day my voron has a sherpa mini setup on its stealthburner, it has its own powered chamber heater and fan, nevermore, filament sensor i made, an auto fan exhaust to lower temps if they go over where i want em, cnc tap, dragon ceramic hotend, chamber lighting and control for all my lights inside. Honestly... Best printer ive ever used. The sherpa mini is insane, it all heats up super fast, and is insanely clean printing and can do ABS up to 250mm/s without losing extruder accuracy. Even a volcano starts to screw up around 300 by AROUND 10 percent.
My first upgrades will be a custom full set of 5 more extruder and hotend toolheads it can switch to on the fly for multicolor printing and multimaterial. 😊
I WANT the CF parts kit... The full one, but omg man... Convincing the wife is not gonna be ez.
If you want a chamber heater just buy one of the little 200-500 watt AC heaters with 24v fan on amazon for like 30 bucks, get another ssr, same model one you have for the bed is fine and theyre like 10-20, though id get heatsinks for both of them because thatll let them run at full amperage instead of 0.4. (its a huge heating speed difference, worth it). A chamber heater is 100% necessary for abs part strength and quality, i dont run any of my printers without chamber control anymore, its so useful!
Cool! So, do you plan on designing some sort of quick swap system to switch out the toolheads manually, or is it gonna be a full-blown tool changer like the prusa XL?
I know I'm pretty late to the party on this one. I built myself a very similar Voron (2.4 r2 350mm). I also have a cat. I print mostly in ABS, and heat soak times aren't fun for a large volume printer. I folded a blanket the depth of the printer and draped it over the top and both sides. Helps the chamber heat up quicker and stay that hot for longer, while also keeping my cat happy. Stick something across the middle of the panel that spans to each side though, I ended up with a bit of warping in my top panel, and my cat isn't that fat.
Very thorough explanation of your mods evolution. I've always questioned the sensorless homing process repeatability. One idea I had was to still use prox or reed switched during homing macro only as a speed shift to then slow the axis near the end of travel to improve sensorless repeatability. Another thing that always seemed questionable was placing the Y-axis switch on the moving axis, bouncing it off another moving axis.
I went sensorless and never had any problem
I recently went CL Tap V2, Galileo 2 extruder, and a nitehawk toolboard (with my Rapido) and its been great so far
This is awesome I'm planning almost the exact same tool head mods. Did you get hextrudort with large gears or small? Also what cable did you use for can bus? Thanks
I got the CNC Hextrudort that comes with the 8 tooth moons motor. For the cable it was actually the BTT CAN Bus cable for the Stealthburner CAN board. They gave it to me when they provided the knomi for review. Technically that cable already has a connector but it's not compatible with the EEB36 so I had to cut it and crimp a new connector. Good cable though!
@@TommyBee456 Yeah I saw that and was wondering if it could just be recrimped. Good to know thanks!
@@michaelbrown5794 With the right tools you should be able to re-crimp just about any cable :)
It sounds like a weird thing to add, but aluminum extrusion dust protectors are a nice easy mod. They keep the channels clean and make the printer look a bit nicer if you have a matching color.
i'll be waiting for the bracing video for sure, may i ask what speeds did you reach so far? also do you think the mantis toolhead ( XOL tool head ) is necessary if you print at average speeds like upto 500mm/s and less with 8000 accel and less?
Necessary? No. However, a big part of why I switched is that i found the cooling of the stealthburner to be sub-par at those higher speeds. XOL does a much better job at cooling. To be honest, I rarely run faster than 300 mm/s with 5K accel unless I'm going for a speed benchy, or I'm printing something pretty big(which i am planning on soon)
I love your videos and style! I am currently in the process of trying to replace my toolhead on my Sovol SV08 as its damaged, This printer is a Voron 2.4 heavily inspried design. I am currently looking at the XOL toolhead but I am so lost in what extruder and hotend to purchase, I print mainly PETG>ABS>ASA>PLA>TPU I have heard some rumbling about the orbiter v2 not being so hot with TPU so im a bit torn on that one since the orbiter has that awesome filament sensor. I am also torn between the revo and rapido hotends, the revo seems really nice but I am thinking flow rates are probably lower than the rapido. I wanted to get a nice nozzle for whatever hotend I get and I typically use .4mm, what is interesting is it seems the diamondback nozzles dont exist for the rapido but maybe it uses normal volcano nozzles? Idk if I even really need more flow as I have never printed beyond .4mm and have stock heads on most of my printers. Thanks again for the excellent videos! Oh last thing, the Sovol SV08 uses USB to its toolhead board so I am looking to probably keep using usb on a new toolhead board, is there any compelling reason you can think of why CAN would be worth the switch, USB also only uses 4 cables. Thanks!
I agree the XOL toolhead is a complete PIA to build, esp with the tiny heatset inserts needing to be set in at specific angles. After multiple failures, I eventually learned an easier way. Screw the insert onto a long 2.0 or 2.5 screw, run a lighter over the insert on the screw, and then gently push in the screw as far as the heat will allow. Usually this won’t be all the way (unless I blacken my insert). Then leave the screw in until it cools completely. Then I come back, remove the screws, and use the soldering iron insert tool for the final sink-to-the-surface without having to worry about the angle. Sounds like too many extra steps- but saved me from ruining any more XOL toolhead prints. And there were SO many….😂
That is freaking brilliant
Ok you got me with your microphone
For the CANbus cable, do the google's for "Cable Gland for 3D printers." Will help keep cable out of the way. Some use piano wire of filament to help it stay up if it's misbehaving too much.
I can't go back to swapping hot nozzles. Thankfully, E3D released the Revo Voron HF that matches Rapido flowrates.
At this point though, I'm waiting to see the Voron Phoenix, and hopefully smaller than 600x600 models.
very nice wrap up, thx for sharing your experience. I recently added the CNC V2 tap version with can bus and found myself having some little issues with the tap detection until i let the magnet holders on the tap a little bit loose. For the can bus apparently running the provided cable through the dragchains did dammage it in less than 2 month and i allready had to replace it one... I Was looking into the XOL but as i am currently using a modified version of the SB (integrating mods for filametrix filament cutter and some additional filament sensors ) I'm not really sure about changing the toolhead as i struggled to get this one to work properly ^^. Keep us posted about your mods, i am really looking forward to you testing out the mods i don't have the time to implement ;)
Love the video, thanks! Helpful for my own project this coming summer
One thing you can do for the floppy canbus cable, is to attach either some nylon filament, or 0.8mm spring steel wire (with a zip tie or something) to give it some rigidity
Sensorless took some fine tuning but works great for me. I also used some script that was recommended but that didn't work well, so ditched that.
Thank You for the video. You're V2.4 is definitely something you should be proud of. It's very nice looking and very clean. I won't say endstops aren't better than sensorless homing. But I did find it a little silly that you didn't just get a piano wire and support your umbilical instead of switching back to endstops. My Mercury 1.1 350x350x400 has sensorless homing with a klicky probe and it works flawlessly and has for months without a single issue. I used to hate sensorless homing back in the day when my BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo was the hottest affordable board on the market and everyone was running Marlin. But since switching all of my printers over to Klipper and diving into sensorless again with the appropriate macro's to lower motor power during homing - I have a whole new view of it. Looking forward to seeing what you have planned for Knomi. The most useless piece of hardware on a printer. But it looks cool and looks matter. Mind you - I'll never own one. Most likely.
Good video! A few more mods to consider, because…..why stop now? 😊
* Clicky clack door, because, you use the door more often than you think and…drool, now you can slam it in a satisfying way.
* 48V on X/Y…nearly doubles torque, so faster acceleration so small perimeters print significantly faster dramatically improving print time without sacrificing quality
* AWD…adds in additional steppers for XY and effectively halves the belt lengths.
I'll look into it!
How did you get the hotend and parts cooling fan connected to the EBB36 Canbus? What voltages are the fans. Can the EBB36 board handle 5V fan supply?
Great Video, enjoyed the watch
just a few things I would add :
the nevermore is fine but "the filter" on printables heats my 350 to 50 Celsius in 25 minutes, definitely worth a look
as for sensor-less, its excellent and would recommend it to anyone, you really need to take your time tuning it however, and your skepticism is understandable
and the CNC chaotic lab V2 is a tough one, they had a ton of issues with V1 and the early V2's, I've heard its gotten better but would still recommend the Vitali or mellow CNC tap's over it any day.
thanks!
Nice video, but please please get a better filter for printing filament like ABS if your cats tend to sit near or much worse *on top* of your printer. That tiny Nevermore is not anything like enough, I’d not let them near the thing or even in the same room despite how much they probably like the heat. There’s just so many dangers that it’s not worth it. Those VOCs are cumulative so you won’t get any warning.
there are HF nozzles for for the Revo, and depending on the R2 you should have the 60w heater too.
Vorons are not designed for active chamber heating, very big no no topic in the discord even LOL. If you really want to get chamber temps up, its better to put insulated panels on, as that bed is more then enough to heat the chamber, just acrylic panels suck at heat retention. Oh and do tweak the printer.cfg file under bed heater, the LDO config by default puts bed power at 60% (0.6), you can crank it up to 1.0 for full power to heat up faster. It will also take the full 750 watts when doing so, just keep that in mind so you don't trip a breaker during warm up LOL.
I have no issues printing ASA and never have bothered with heatsoaking the chamber, just having the enclosure is enough to make ASA print without warping. Do note though that you will want a hotter bed then what ASA asks for with that PEI bed. Orca Slicer has Voron ASA profile set for a bed of 105, I upped to 115 for first layer and 110 for the rest, it stuck down with no issues at all, no warping no need for brims.
There's a reason why LDO has the bed power at 60% in their config. If you run the bed heater at too high a power level, over time it will warp the bed. The rule of thumb is 0.4 watts / cm^2. The second is the SSR included with the LDO kit may not be rated for the current the bed draws at 100% power. You should check both those things before increasing the value. IIRC the heater on the LDO 350mm kit is 750 watts. If you do the math, 0.4 watts / cm^2 works out to 504 watts, which is about 65% of full power (750 watts). I don't have the SSR ratings in front of me, but it's even more important to check that.
Love the video, i have a Voron V0 running the EBB36 can. And i have a PG7 cable gland to keep the can cable up a bit better (i know the V0 is way smaller) there is a mod i seen where you have a pianowire helping to keep the can cable up. And MandicReally here on youtube and Thangs have som really nice can mods. Keep up the good work. And if you want to go the heated chamber route, FrankenVoron/Doomcube, have a look. Because entropy is not our friend at all. Best wished from Sweden
Is Hextruder still best option & are they purchasable in the uk ?
Edit I use revo don’t thing he truer compatible
I would not recommend to go with chaoticlab cf gantry. It's not so lightweight as it seems. With all aluminium parts, x-beam would weight 100-120g (i don't remember exactly) snd it actually not very rigid. You can add few more rail mounts, but... then that looses the point in terms of weight. Joints are not rigid as well. Two thin cf plates on alu standoffs. What could go wrong... It also pretty tricky to assemble. I would recomend to go with alu beam and alu joints. Elite Machined ultralight beam for example. Or you can buy beam and joints separate. For350 build you want as much rigidity as you can take. Any joint mod will fall in between 40-45g wight but alu joint will be much more rigid and precise
Good to know! When i made this video, it was pretty new, so there wasn't much info about it. Thanks for sharing!
there is also klicky-00, by the same person who made XOL, it was also originally designed for xol, it is a klicky style nozzle based probe, that also gets docked away, and dosent F up inputshaper with the added weight and loose toolhead
Huh, interesting. Looks like it's still under development. I'll look into it if i build another printer(which I might lol).
I have been on a Voron 2.4 journey as well. it was supposed to be my learn 3d printing printer while i waited for my forever delayed Prusa XL. Mine was a 2.4 r1, my first upgrade was to go Stealthburner w/ a Slice Magnum and ebb36 before i knew the drama with slice. Then i went a printed tap and sb2209 with an octopus max ez. Then i got my prusa and have been kind of putting exotic stuff in the voron… My printed tap was never great so i tried the beacon which so far has been nice though is not as good at being an emergency z end stop. I will say CL stuff has been great and i am almost done with the upgrading to the CF gantry though i had already upgraded my x gantry to a machined aluminum one so i hybridized the CF gantry kit with it and CL’s tool free tensioning on all axises. I’m trying the Galileo 2 too though i like you am not in love with the stealthburner part of me is at best neutral about it and would almost prefer one of the newer fully integrated designs like the orbiter v3.
Bruh, look into the gantry backers. They're super easy to install and they make a big enough difference to your bedmesh.
Man id really love a video on how you setup the xol and canbus. I'm about to jump down this road and I just wanna do it right!
You my friend have earned a new subscriber :)
I appreciate it!
I would like a bit more Info on why your sensorless homing wasn't working.. so long as your belts are tensioner appropriately and your sense value is tuned, it's pretty reliable..
It was mostly the floppy cable, actually. When it flopped around, it could cause a false trigger. So now, i could probably be fine with it now, but I already added the switches back in, so whatever.
Ah, das habe ich mir doch gedacht, dass das Mikrofon nicht echt ist.... 😂 Sehr gelungene Präsentation, vielen Dank für's Teilen.
Sensorless homing if setup properly just works. Your cables and bowden should not be able to be kinked and as such need to be looked at. As for carbon fibre and adding a chamber heater. I would highly recommend doing a double take! Higher temps will soften the carbon fibre making it a waste of money in my opinion. All aluminum would be a better choice. Love the vid. Tha k's for sharing
Hey, great video! My Voron is almost an identical copy of yours with the exact same mods (hextrudort, rapido, xol2, canbus, klicky, etc). Have you had any issues with your canbus board overheating with longer ABS (enclosed) prints? I installed bed fans but can't even run them without my canbus board overheating, so I don't even bother turning them on anymore.
Not yet, but my longest abs print since the upgrades has only been about 4 hours. Did you install the heatsink on the MCU of the can bus board? Might help if you haven't
Yes I did, I also installed one on the driver itself. Since then I have lowered my extruder current and that might have been enough to fix it. I haven't had any long enclosed prints since then.@@TommyBee456
I think the Voron team don't reccomend adding a chamber heater just because they can be a bit dangerous. I have seen some people do the bed fans mod to draw in the cooler air from the chamber and force it under the bed to be heated up. That seems to be the most common way to get the big printers to heat the chamber faster.
I think for speed increases you could consider a light weight X beam, I think there's a few options like a skeletonised alumninium beam or a carbon fiber beam.
There is "homing override", where you can drop the motor current, so you don't have to go too high on the sensitivity, did you utilize that?
I just followed the Klipper documentation, which does have a part where you can set motor current. Maybe I was too quick to revert sensorless homing as I know it can work fine, but it was no big deal to go back to physical endstops when I moved the Z chain.
never follow the klipper documentation for this, ive learned the hard way that their documentation for proper sensorless is just BS... i used help of people who did sucessfully run sensorless, and good video guides that dont reference it..., my printer now homes perfect, lowers the current when homing, ups it after, dosent Umpf into the endstops ( which was fixed by going higher speed for homing, unlike documentation saying GO LOW...) and especially more accurate and repeatable.. im running 75mm/s homing speed, and tuned sensitivity for that, and my printer just taps the back, you wont even know its sensorless @@TommyBee456
Hey, which fans do you use for the XOL toolhead? Thanks!
I used the ones included in this kit. I think they were made by honeybadger?
www.fabreeko.com/products/xol-2-toolhead-by-armchair-engineering?variant=44154053329151
What's your plan for Web Cam ?
v2.4R2
microphone
Sensorless homing is awesome. I'm converting all mine to sensorless. Too many problems with the wires and the actual clicker. It is accurate. It is better. You didn't do it correctly, obviously. Plenty of people have no issue with sensorless, but they know what this printer is actually called.
I'm pretty sure Xol is pronounced like the name, not spelled out lol. Archetype is a nice toolhead mod that is made by some of the same people (although its not compatible with tap). Also, I had the same issues with sensorless homing and people seem to think I'm crazy for going back to physical end stops so good to see I'm not alone with that lol. I've been using the chaotic lab carbon fiber XY joints and X axis tube for ~7 months and they have held up well.
Mine sensorless feels "gentle". I'm very happy with it especially tons of cables and other stuff goes away.
What is that printable torque wrench you made?
Whoops! Should've included it in the video. It's right here: www.printables.com/model/24539-torque-wrench-handles-from-10nm-up-to-30nm
Building my first Voron now!
Sweet! Have fun!
Why do you prefere the HEXtruDORT over the galileo 2? Thanks for your video
Can't say I prefer one over the other because I have never tried the Galileo 2 but I still would probably assume that is a great extruder. It seems we are at a great time in 3d printing where is kind of doesn't matter what extruder you go with, they all seem to be great. I want to build "The 100" 3d printer soon so maybe Ill put a Galileo 2 on that :)
kudos for the prop 😄
Daniel Radcliffe now also has a Voron. Amazing!🤣
how much did yoou spent on the add ons?
cat
Back there mean mugging with the twitching tail. Pets are clearly demanded.
Hello Tommy,
It's my turn with the chamber heater I think I have a solution for you that you'll like I need a few more days to finish my design, I've spent many hours myself deciding where to put the thing. And I came up with a great solution.
Very Interesting!
@@TommyBee456I'll let you know when I've finished the mod
I'm Finish how can i give the link
@@kissin707 got the link! thanks
All those mods but no bfi?
or BFZ
I was going to look into the beefy upgrades if I do the carbon fiber motion system parts. That being said, I should print them now just in case the stock ones give up sometime soon :)
you decided to go for a lighter toolhead but also decided to get the heaviest tap on market????
hint... there is a carbon fiber cnc tap on ali.. i got it - way lighter (cause it also uses small mgn7 instead of the thicc 9)
Ah yes watchin other people do Voron mods instead of fixing mine...
For frame bracing i bolted in some printed VZ frame braces into the top concerns, the difference for input shaper is marginal, but they do prevent my top extrusions form twisting out of alignment when using the carry handles a lot.
Nice microphone XD
Trolling with the mic 😂.
Why is that cat judging me the whole video.
Tap takes to long and fails a lot with time. Eddy coil has been working well for me and 200x faster than tap and its accurate enough !
mic drop and fucking subscribed.
С микрофоном хорошо придумал. Посмеялся.😁😁
I just can't bring myself to build this printer since it wastes 4 steppers for the Z axis and X/Y only get 1 stepper each... with a long belt path especially a 350mm volume this will kill top end performance. The 2.4 is not a high performance printer IMO it's more gimmicky than practical. The frame is also kinda flimsy compared to something like a RatRig. If I was to build a Voron printer I'd go with the Trident.
The frame isn't the same as the Trident? Plus less vibrations on the voron
wastes 4 steppers for the Z axis = no lead screws to mess with the Z axis
also means that the internal space is utilized to a maximum
fixed bed means AC wiring mains dont move, and the center of gravity is lower
will kill top end performance = my 2.4 does 18k accels, stock build
flimsy frame? really? its 2020 aluminum, its perfectly fine.
@@sebb4269 I'm glad you're happy with it but I look for different features for my machine. I think something like a RatRig is a better fit for my needs.
fyi, I saw a gun in your slicer - be careful as youtube channels have been banned for showing 3d printed guns.
Dont worry its a nerf blaster i designed lol, it'll be my next video!
❤ one like fir the kitty 🐈😸