Just an update: I finished the supercharger oil service on my R52 cabrio today BY MYSELF! I'm only mildly mechanically inclined, but this video made it perfectly clear. Also got a 15% pulley on and a new water pump and thermostat as preventative maintenance. Thank you so much for doing this, sir. You're saving us all a ton of cash and more importantly allowing us to understand the inner workings of our cars.
Thanks, glad it was helpful to someone. Did you see my other video specifically covering the supercharger service? MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service R53 Eaton M45
Your videos are super helpful and I really appreciate the detailed explanation. I have an R52 convertible S that I tinker with periodically. The nearest dealer is 125 miles away and shops around here avoid Mini's like the plague. I second what Rob S says about saving us all $$
Thank you so much for posting this. I am a complete amateur, but with the presence of a much more experienced friend, this video gave us all the know how we needed to replace the spoiler and the casing around the radiator (including removing and replacing the radiator). Got it done in one saturday. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Long time follower of your videos. I have a very used R53 that constantly demands more parts. Anyway, just wanted to thank you so incredibly much for all of your videos. They are all amazingly helpful. I just did a full front end service (supercharger oil, etc) and it was a breeze!! Thanks again. - Martin
I’d just like to thank you for all of the videos you have done regarding the R53, I’m about to do a supercharger service and replace the control arm bushes as well as a full regular service and this is all made possible by the videos you have made on these things, thank you very much!
My mom was checking the oil level on her mini, when sanp! she snapped the dipstick inside dipstick tube so now I gotta do all of this. now that I know how I think MAX a 2 hour job and it's great cuz that dipstick it easy to get now with all that stuff off thanks dude great video
Wow, can't thank you enough for you helpfull videos. My 2004 mini cooper s JCW was riding so rough that when I brought it to a local shop who gave me an est of 3800$ for suspension renewal, but with your vids and the help of my good friend, who is a pro mechanic, we dropped the sub frame and replaced ball joints, sway bar links, hubs and bearings, and for only 100$ we replaced rear trailing arms with a used aluminum set from a 2009. We are still tweeking but so far a great improvement in ride and handeling. One problem that still concerns me though is this, that the cars bumper cover / air dam/ is not conected to anything along the bottom. I am pretty sure which under tray is missing and which part to order, but between that skid plate and the lower edge of the bumper cover there is nothing. The bumper cover is swinging in the breeze. I think I need the correct oem lip spoiler and I am confused about which one to order. I think that the missing part anchors the skid plate to car and to lower bumper cover lip. Thanks, Chris Z
Thanks again MM. I've kept my '05 for over 100K so needless to say this being a first gen S which is driven hard, I end up doing this ALOT.. My share: use a little anti seize on the threads the first time around, makes things go much quicker both in and out (a little last a long time). I put the 10mm guide bolts into the frame while the crash bumper is still on and leave it there until after the bumper is back on.. I find it holds things loosely in place while sorting out the wiring. I don't like the screw type fender rivets, they inevitably spin or strip so I buy a whole bag of the pop out kind and change them when they even start to look sketchy. I use a long length of wire cloths hanger for pining the tensioner from 2 feet away, it 's easier standing back holding the tensioner tool with one hand and not trying to lean over and negotiate pliers and the little keeper pin. Same on the release. I remove all the body and frame bolt at one while I'm underneath with my impact and 2 sockets, saves a minute or 2. On a good day start to finish maybe 8-10 minutes. one last note- I tried chain store parts for while. For me it wasn't cost effective, while the aftermarket gives "lifetime Warrenty" same as mini I found it to be more about marketing. Even if Discount parts store gets a 15% failure rate they still make money. Yes I get a free store replacement but the hours of hassles of doing job twice and perhaps having to wait on store inventory isn't worth the extra 10-20% the dealer charges. I've never had a dealer part fail.
On my 2006, the Torx (bumper cover to radiator support) is a T30, not a T25. Also, the 5, 13mm fasteners, (aluminum bumper) are all nuts over studs (need deep well socket). Torque spec for crash tube bolts is 100Nm/74ft-lb. Long screws to pull radiator forward are 8mm x 1.25mm thread. (I used VW tool 3411 which are the same thing, just long rods threaded on the end)
Turns out it's the radiator.... Leaking on the top, bottom and the coolant overflow tank was full 4 days ago... Now completely empty. Need a new radiator which isn't going to be fun for my mechanic. Thanks for your reply. I've subscribed.
Bingo. :-) Seems to be an issue only for 02-03 cars. Amazon has great prices on radiators, probably any of them are better than what the car came with. Just follow this video and then it's only another 15 minutes to separate the radiator from the front end module. Entire job shouldn't take more than 2 hours.
Finally decided to purchase a 2003 R53, and tear into all the maintenance. Cannot thank you enough for all the videos and attention to detail. QUESTION- other than crank sensor o-ring, super charger oil, water pump, and oil pan gasket... what else would you recommend servicing on a mini while in front end service mode? My car has no maintenance history and would like to cover all bases.
Thank you for making this video. I'm going to be doing this soon. My Mini gave me a code today "P0340" and traction control sensor light came on. I've decided to change all the wheel speed sensors as well. Thanks to your videos I feel confident that I can do it.
That’s a very good video mate, great editing and great choice of clips. I only wish you had better light in you garage, we would get so much better quality video then
Great video. You've offered some great points and very thorough explanation of how to carry out this work. Thank you for your time and knowedge sharing.
thanks for the video it just happens that i got a mini with a front end damage and i was trying to figure out how to do the removal of the front end of the car .. thanks again
Thanks for another very informative video. I replaced my bypass valve yesterday then noticed that the supercharger intake duct had become detached from the supercharger :( Looks like I will have to follow the steps right up to removing the radiator to get that fixed
beagletube I've done it many times and never seen that happen before. Maybe the 10mm bolt is missing or the plastic is cracked. You might be able to make it go back by pushing in the correct direction. once the throttle body is fastened down, it won't go anywhere.
***** Yeah. Everything looked solid when I reassembled. Started the car and the revs climbed to 3000 right away and was loud. Shut it off and began disassembling again. I noticed the intake duct was all wobbly as soon as I got the snorkel and large air intake hose off. Most likely a beginner mistake on my end. Thanks again for the super informative video and replying
I know this is 10 years later but my daughter has I believe an air conditioning condenser also out front of the radiator on her 2006 do I need to remove that and capture the refrigerant
Hi, very helpful video! I own a 2006 Mini Cooper S R53 and i think i need to replace my AC condensor. Can you test if it leaks or not? Are there specific things i have to pay attention to when replacing it? I already ordered a replacement condensor with receiver/dryer included
Thanks for the tips, Mod. What is the thread size on the long bolts used to bring the front out into service position? What are the chances of reaching the crank position sensor from service position without actually removing the core support?
I have a vacuum leak, I'm assuming it's my supercharger intake pipe, putting it into front end service mode at the moment. You said mentioned fixing vacuum leaks, where else should I be looking for vacuum leaks while I have the front end off?
Very easy to follow and detailed guide. while I have the front end opened up is there any other small things like the crank position o ring that I should be taking care of? I notice I also have some oil build up behind the left fender lining do you know what this could be? Thanks for the guides!
+Mod MINI Thanks for your reply. Also when I'm putting the radiator and bumper liner back on, how can I tell which cables connect to which lights? Do I put them in depending on the length of the cable?
Okay I thought it was like that just wanted to make sure. My battery is dead with my car on jacks and no way to charge it so I couldnt test. Thanks for your reply!
Thanks for the Video! Quick question, do you think this can be done without jacking the vehicle up? I don't want to have to buy the equipment if it is not necessary. Thanks for your time!
Hey there! I saw somewhere else that it is necessary to drain the air conditioning gas pipe to remove the radiator, but I didn’t catch that step in your video, is it really necessary? Or just by draining the coolant fluid is enough. Big fan of your videos, I am grateful as everyone here for the big favor you are doing to our wallets
Thank you for making this job so much faster and easier for me. I have a 2003 Mini S, 79.000 miles, with a blown head gasket and leaking at a water pump seal. Yesterday my son and I followed your video and removed the front end and the head. Ordering parts now and will put it back together in a week or two. Question, looking into the super charger inter-cooler we found a bunch of small thin plastic scraps at both ends blocking a lot of the air flow and have not figured out what it is or how it got there. Any Ideas?
Hi. Super helpful. My car's radiator fan keeps running, the minute it is plugged in (even if the car is off). What would be your guess as to the problem (is it the resistor and should I be changing the whole fan assembly)? Many thanks
My customer came to the shop with a leaking radiator on a 2003 Mini. No one in town would work on this car. Even with a hoist it took me all day to get to the radiator. Since then I have done a heater core, sucked! Thermostat, sucked! Heater hoses, Sucked. And know the ac condenser has been damaged from running into a stop curb in a parking lot! I have to tear the from end off to change that in the morning. Oops, start working on it in the morning. I'm sure it will be dark tomorrow before it's even close to being done!! But-- They are really good paying people!
Not fun the first time, but with practice, you can get the radiator completely off the car in around a half hour, thermostat 45 minutes or so. And hose clamp pliers are a must. amzn.to/1miUekA Heater core... that's a headache on just about any car. Keep calm and carry on.
Just finished replacing my motor mount on my R53 with the help from one of your other videos. I have a few more things I have to do, one being to replace my Radiator Fan. I believe this video is the closest thing you have to showing how to replace it, but I'm sure it can't be too difficult. In your opinion, as I'm sure you've replaced a few, where would you recommend getting a new fan? I would prefer not to spend $300+ buying OEM but I also don't wan to purchase one that will burn out again in a couple months.
Not sure what is your question. If your fan is not working, you need to replace the fan. Any fan should be fine. You might be able to find one at a junkyard or on eBay if you don't want to buy a new one.
Thank u sir. Very much appreciated. Question? What size bolts do u use to screw in to take out the front end. Those two screws u used. Length and diameter. Thank u
love the videos, thank you for taking the time to post these. how do you recommend getting the mini on 4 jack stands? I'm relatively new to my r53 and am unaware of any jacking points other than the four points near the wheels. suggestions?
Hi I just finished taking the radiator off and I found a small black o ring that seemed to be in good condition on the ground. Any idea what that could be ?
Thats an awesome DIY! Thanks. I have a question: my R53's cooling fan is wobbling too much (it looks like its hitting the surround). Can I remove the fan shroud with the fan by just moving the radiator that little bit forwards on studs like you did? Or would I need to remove the whole radiator and flush the system?
Thank you for this video. If this car needed an alternator replacement, are the radiator hoses long enough to allow the radiator to be slid forward a sufficient distance for access to remove the alternator bolts or is complete radiator removal with disconnecting of radiator hoses inevitable?
Yes, the alternator can be replaced without cracking open the cooling system. I have video for an alternator replacement but haven't edited or posted the video yet. Essentially the steps are: disconnect battery, put car in front end service mode, loosen 10mm bolt for battery cable on alternator (use pair of pliers to prevent entire terminal from rotating at the same time), remove accessory belt, unclip regulator cable, remove 3 10mm bolts holding alternator on to engine block, assemble in reverse order.
Thanks for all the videos! I didn't see one for the reassembly though and it looks like there are some nuances to getting the radiator back on, functional, getting bubbles out, etc. I've been following you religiously the past few weeks since I inherited a 2004 Mini S and have been repairing it to pass inspection. Anyways, do you have a reassembly video by chance?
+David Konopka Unfortunately not in one place. I show radiator bleed and front end assembly in several of my other videos. Sorry, I don't recall which, but should be some footage in most of the major engine/clutch repair videos.
A friend is giving my brother a 2010 which needs an alternator... so thanks for this video. Looking forward to working on this car.. Any recommendations on the manufactuerer replacement parts.. replacing the alternator = new belt -- saw at Rock Auto a Gates HP racing belt... is this worth the extra $$, also tensioner puller + idler pully as well as the crankshaft position sensor that you mention?? Any other parts to change while "you can get to them" thanks.
2010 is a totally different car. This video won't help you. You don't need a racing belt and crank position sensors are not problematic on 2010. You may want to replace oil filter housing gasket which commonly leaks. It's behind the exhaust manifold (downpipe).
The car is about 50 miles away from where we live and tow prices are outrageous... Question -- If we throw a battery in.. and start it.. will trying to run it solely on a battery both a) work and b) potentially cause any engine damage?? c) any experience on possible how far one could get without an alternator thanks.
Hello Mod Mini, First I would like to say thank you for the Videos they have help alot. since I bought my 2012 Mini Cooper S. I don't know if you will read this or not but can you a do a video with a 2010-2014 Mini Cooper Models. Every where I look there is only videos about 2002-6 on how to fix thing on your MIni But no 2010-2014 Mini How to's. well thank you again for the videos and keep it up.
My bonnet’s latch on the right side of the vehicle (driver side) isn’t shutting all the way, do you know if it’s the latch or the cable that I will fix? Thanks for your videos!
Try adjusting your passenger-side latch upwards by a few millimeters. I had to deal with this same issue after replacing my driver- and passenger-side latches (the originals had gotten rusty and gross). After much trial and error, I realized that I had installed the passenger-side latch a few millimeters too low, which caused my bonnet to twist *just enough* upon closing to prevent it from fully latching on the driver-side.
Thank you for all of the videos you have posted. They are all very helpful. I was just wondering if you had any idea of a website that sells the wheel well plugs. I ruined a lot of mine when taking them out. Living in New England with all the salty roading in the winter really took a toll on this mini when my father owned it.
***** I think I found them on ebay, if those are the same "plastic lugs" in the wheel well liner. I store the car a few towns over from me so I can't look at them at the moment to be sure. I appreciate the quick response. thank you
Thanks for shearing this great video, I have a coolant leak problem from my R53, literally it leak from the connection part between the upper hose and the radiator, it looks like a hard plastic and fixed with the radiator. it's that possible to replace it?
L cyrus That's common on the 2003 and earlier. The radiator inlet is separate piece from the radiator. You might be able to pull and replace the o-ring, but no guarantee it will work and I've never seen this part available on its own. Plus, the plastic may flex with age. Recommended fix is a new radiator.
Yea, I've been looking for that connector for a while. Do you know the size of that o-ring? I can try replace it first rather than replace whole radiator.
I just replaced my coolant fan and it won't shut off. When i first bought it last year it would stay on for a new minutes after but would shut off. It died a month ago and i replaced it with a new one today. Now it see,s like it would run for hours until the battery died. Any suggestions, thank you
Good video! Now, a question... Where can I find OEM screws and bolts, as well as connectors for the bumper lights for my 2003 Mini? Some dude jumped the red light and clipped my car in an intersection and took the whole bumper away and took off... I gave chase and got him. Now, the insurance company will total the car and I plan to buy it back and fix it. So, anyplace to buy all the needed parts over the Internet at a good price?
+Adrian Mendoza You can buy most parts from the dealer but will be expensive. eBay and Amazon are good places to look for aftermarket parts. Nuts and bolts will be harder. Some are available from the dealer / online, some you are just going to have to find a suitable replacement. You might go to a local junkyard and take some nuts/bolts off various MINIs and BMWs. Go to realoem.com for an idea of what parts the dealer is likely to sell.
Great video and narration :) what length and diameter size are the 2 support bolts to hold the front bumper section please when I disassembling. If possible the diameter in millimetres where they screw in. With this radiator pulled away but still attached by radiator hoses, would this give enough clearance to allow the low speed resistor to be changed? regards
***** They should be M8 x 1.25 bolts, the longest you can find. Should be enough room to work on the fan resistor but the angles will be a little strange.
+Adam Barraclough You need to at least pull everything forward into FES mode, but not necessary to remove front end completely. For an R50, you can get it out just by removing the top radiator hose.
***** Hi Kurt I was seeing your videos on you tube, which by the way I find them really great and very helpful. Many years ago I use to modified street cars, alpine, R-5 & R-8 Renault for racing, and I use to race them to. They were a totally different cars and motors that they are now. I have a mini cooper S 2005 with heating problem, very unusual for my understanding, because I was driving the car for several weeks with no problem most of the time, but some times it was getting hot, not every time just some times, until my wife drove it very hot and the radiator now has a leak. So I want to fix it, of course changing the radiator, but most important trying to find the problem.What do you think the problem could be? the pump can not make an intermittent heating problem?maybe the thermostat or the heating sensor that turns on the electric fan, to me the electric fan seems working properly. Because of the complexity to reach all those areas I think I'm going to change the pump, the thermostat and probably the electric fan sensor. Please give your advise, and tell me if you know and can recommend those parts brands: Nissens for Radiator Mac kay for coolant hoses Wahler for thermostat Graf for water pump or what brands do you recommend ? If you are not to busy and you can answer me I will deeply appreciate it. Very best regards Joaquin
Joaquin Balaguer Most leak is from the thermostat housing. Other possibility is radiator itself, water pump, water pump inlet gasket, or maybe a head gasket problem. I usually just choose OEM or OEM equivalent for the brands, making sure not to pick the cheapest supplier.
Hey man what’s going on ?👍🏿👍🏿 for all you videos I become very knowledgeable about my mini hard top R53 04 thanks to your vid now it time for a new supercharger and I was thinking going a different way with a turbo. Now I’d like to know if u have an idea about the r50 mini air intake manifold and the r53s will it fit if I take out my supercharger everything else
Wow. An r50 intake would bolt right up but I don't know if it has the right strength or airflow capacity/characteristics to handle something like a turbo. You would also need an aftermarket ECU, custom exhaust manifold, probably a front mount intercooler, electric water pump, etc. This would not be a project for the faint of heart and certainly not recommended for a daily driver. Probably best to use a proven kit.
Thanks for responding so quickly now I c it done a few vid on RUclips and all like if u look for r53 turbo I’m not looking fo big power it just that my supercharger is going bad and it expensive to get a rebuilt one and I love my mini I’m going to all d r50 stuff like water pump intake manifold now would d r53 injectors fit on d r50 intake manifold
Look, it's going to be a lot cheaper to just replace the supercharger. Look on ebay, used ones are cheaper than you think. Replace the supercharger oil and the supercharger will outlast the remaining life of your engine. If you try to build a turbo setup yourself you are going to run into all kinds of engineering problems. Such a project will easily cost thousands of USD.
Thanks so much for your help I will keep d info mind and again for the video they saved me a lot of money 💰 thanks.
5 лет назад
Thanks for your videos. They are helping me a lot with my R50. Just a Quick question @Mod Mini, Is there a way to replace the knock Sensor Without having to put the Car in Front End Service Mode?
5 лет назад
As R50 does not have the Super Charger, it is possible to see the Knock, but i'm afraid of taking it out and then having suffer to put the new one in the proper position.
For R50, remove intake manifold to replace knock sensor .I don't know if it can be done without service mode. Not hard to put back in proper position. just bolt it up in the same hole you took it out. The orientation is not important other than to keep wire from rubbing on something.
5 лет назад
@@ModMINI Thanks for your feedback... Your videos are amazing, keep making them. I couldn't figure out a way to replace the sensor without service mode, although its a very easy replacement, the sensor location is not helpfull. I took the chance and replaced the AC Bearing
In this video you mentioned the Knock Sensor. Did you make another video covering this? I'm getting code P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1). This is all foreign to me so after getting the front end off I'd be confused on what to do next. Thanks in advance.
Hi. No other video, but knock sensor is directly behind the supercharger. You can see the wire on the front of the intake manifold but the supercharger has to come off to get to it. Check my supercharger oil service video. MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service R53 Eaton M45
![Coheed and Cambria - Searching for Tomorrow [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hDsYGLbmadg/mqdefault.jpg)
Just an update: I finished the supercharger oil service on my R52 cabrio today BY MYSELF! I'm only mildly mechanically inclined, but this video made it perfectly clear. Also got a 15% pulley on and a new water pump and thermostat as preventative maintenance. Thank you so much for doing this, sir. You're saving us all a ton of cash and more importantly allowing us to understand the inner workings of our cars.
Thanks, glad it was helpful to someone. Did you see my other video specifically covering the supercharger service? MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service R53 Eaton M45
Your videos are super helpful and I really appreciate the detailed explanation. I have an R52 convertible S that I tinker with periodically. The nearest dealer is 125 miles away and shops around here avoid Mini's like the plague. I second what Rob S says about saving us all $$
Has anyone mentioned this work has all been done in crocs?
Legend.
Still wearing crocs years later.
Thank you so much for posting this. I am a complete amateur, but with the presence of a much more experienced friend, this video gave us all the know how we needed to replace the spoiler and the casing around the radiator (including removing and replacing the radiator). Got it done in one saturday. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
You make some of best videos for mini DIYers.
Long time follower of your videos. I have a very used R53 that constantly demands more parts. Anyway, just wanted to thank you so incredibly much for all of your videos. They are all amazingly helpful. I just did a full front end service (supercharger oil, etc) and it was a breeze!! Thanks again.
- Martin
Just picked up an R53 that needs quite a bit of work. I think this video and others will prove very useful!
I've it before and I'll say it again. You are the best. I've learned so much from your videos. They've given me the confidence to work on my R53 cars
I’d just like to thank you for all of the videos you have done regarding the R53, I’m about to do a supercharger service and replace the control arm bushes as well as a full regular service and this is all made possible by the videos you have made on these things, thank you very much!
Thanks, at last a guy who truly and easily shows how to change coolant of an R53. Well done.
My mom was checking the oil level on her mini, when sanp! she snapped the dipstick inside dipstick tube so now I gotta do all of this. now that I know how I think MAX a 2 hour job and it's great cuz that dipstick it easy to get now with all that stuff off thanks dude great video
Yes, around 2 at most to get into FES, wiggle out the dipstick tube and reassemble.
Wow, can't thank you enough for you helpfull videos. My 2004 mini cooper s JCW was riding so rough that when I brought it to a local shop who gave me an est of 3800$ for suspension renewal, but with your vids and the help of my good friend, who is a pro mechanic, we dropped the sub frame and replaced ball joints, sway bar links, hubs and bearings, and for only 100$ we replaced rear trailing arms with a used aluminum set from a 2009. We are still tweeking but so far a great improvement in ride and handeling. One problem that still concerns me though is this, that the cars bumper cover / air dam/ is not conected to anything along the bottom. I am pretty sure which under tray is missing and which part to order, but between that skid plate and the lower edge of the bumper cover there is nothing. The bumper cover is swinging in the breeze. I think I need the correct oem lip spoiler and I am confused about which one to order. I think that the missing part anchors the skid plate to car and to lower bumper cover lip. Thanks, Chris Z
Thanks again MM. I've kept my '05 for over 100K so needless to say this being a first gen S which is driven hard, I end up doing this ALOT.. My share: use a little anti seize on the threads the first time around, makes things go much quicker both in and out (a little last a long time).
I put the 10mm guide bolts into the frame while the crash bumper is still on and leave it there until after the bumper is back on.. I find it holds things loosely in place while sorting out the wiring.
I don't like the screw type fender rivets, they inevitably spin or strip so I buy a whole bag of the pop out kind and change them when they even start to look sketchy.
I use a long length of wire cloths hanger for pining the tensioner from 2 feet away, it 's easier standing back holding the tensioner tool with one hand and not trying to lean over and negotiate pliers and the little keeper pin. Same on the release.
I remove all the body and frame bolt at one while I'm underneath with my impact and 2 sockets, saves a minute or 2.
On a good day start to finish maybe 8-10 minutes.
one last note- I tried chain store parts for while. For me it wasn't cost effective, while the aftermarket gives "lifetime Warrenty" same as mini I found it to be more about marketing. Even if Discount parts store gets a 15% failure rate they still make money. Yes I get a free store replacement but the hours of hassles of doing job twice and perhaps having to wait on store inventory isn't worth the extra 10-20% the dealer charges. I've never had a dealer part fail.
On my 2006, the Torx (bumper cover to radiator support) is a T30, not a T25. Also, the 5, 13mm fasteners, (aluminum bumper) are all nuts over studs (need deep well socket). Torque spec for crash tube bolts is 100Nm/74ft-lb. Long screws to pull radiator forward are 8mm x 1.25mm thread. (I used VW tool 3411 which are the same thing, just long rods threaded on the end)
Thanks for clarifying.
Dude your videos are amazing and simple to follow ! Thank for dummy-fying this for the everyday man 🍻
Turns out it's the radiator.... Leaking on the top, bottom and the coolant overflow tank was full 4 days ago... Now completely empty. Need a new radiator which isn't going to be fun for my mechanic. Thanks for your reply. I've subscribed.
Bingo. :-) Seems to be an issue only for 02-03 cars. Amazon has great prices on radiators, probably any of them are better than what the car came with.
Just follow this video and then it's only another 15 minutes to separate the radiator from the front end module. Entire job shouldn't take more than 2 hours.
Great Video, just picked up a 03 S with 67k miles on it. Needs and new water pump.
Thanks for the awesome MINI videos! They are a huge help when I'm working on my 03' JCW R53 Mini.
Awesome video! Very helpful in showing us how to pull the front of the car out for servicing.
Great videos, I’m glad to have found you. The dealer wants to charge more than the car is worth to repair the few problems I have with my R53.
Perfect video. I watched it once and did it by your instructions with no problems Thank you👍👍
great videos for new coop owners
Finally decided to purchase a 2003 R53, and tear into all the maintenance. Cannot thank you enough for all the videos and attention to detail. QUESTION- other than crank sensor o-ring, super charger oil, water pump, and oil pan gasket... what else would you recommend servicing on a mini while in front end service mode? My car has no maintenance history and would like to cover all bases.
water pump to block flange o-ring.Valve cover gasket.
Thank you for making this video. I'm going to be doing this soon. My Mini gave me a code today "P0340" and traction control sensor light came on. I've decided to change all the wheel speed sensors as well. Thanks to your videos I feel confident that I can do it.
Oh!, this video is fantastic. I have to replace my alternator and you show me how to get there. Thanks Mod.
Thanks for watching. Front end service mode is super easy if you can just see how it's done! :-) It's really just a handful of fasteners.
That’s a very good video mate, great editing and great choice of clips. I only wish you had better light in you garage, we would get so much better quality video then
See newer videos. Light issues solved
thank you so much, your tutorials are simple and very helpful. good job from Italy! (sorry for my bad English)
Simone, no need to apologize for your English. Your sentence was perfect, including punctuation,except not capitalizing the first word in a sentence.
Thanks for taking the time to put up this step by step video. Awesome job!
Brilliant DIY guide and very informative the best guide ive seen for the front end..
Great video. You've offered some great points and very thorough explanation of how to carry out this work. Thank you for your time and knowedge sharing.
thanks for the video it just happens that i got a mini with a front end damage and i was trying to figure out how to do the removal of the front end of the car .. thanks again
Your video literally saved my wallet and my car dude’ thankyou
Thank god for you and your mini service videos
What a great help. Doing this on my R50.
Great video thanks for that, just about to go out and pull the alternator out mine.
Thank you so much for this video. You have no Idea how this helped me. I liked and subscribed
Thanks for another very informative video. I replaced my bypass valve yesterday then noticed that the supercharger intake duct had become detached from the supercharger :( Looks like I will have to follow the steps right up to removing the radiator to get that fixed
beagletube I've done it many times and never seen that happen before. Maybe the 10mm bolt is missing or the plastic is cracked. You might be able to make it go back by pushing in the correct direction. once the throttle body is fastened down, it won't go anywhere.
***** Yeah. Everything looked solid when I reassembled. Started the car and the revs climbed to 3000 right away and was loud. Shut it off and began disassembling again. I noticed the intake duct was all wobbly as soon as I got the snorkel and large air intake hose off.
Most likely a beginner mistake on my end. Thanks again for the super informative video and replying
How to change air filter on an R53 Mini:
Step 1: disassemble whole front end.
I know this is 10 years later but my daughter has I believe an air conditioning condenser also out front of the radiator on her 2006 do I need to remove that and capture the refrigerant
Hi, very helpful video! I own a 2006 Mini Cooper S R53 and i think i need to replace my AC condensor. Can you test if it leaks or not? Are there specific things i have to pay attention to when replacing it? I already ordered a replacement condensor with receiver/dryer included
Thanks for the tips, Mod. What is the thread size on the long bolts used to bring the front out into service position? What are the chances of reaching the crank position sensor from service position without actually removing the core support?
I think they are M8x1.25 thread. They are the same thread as the bolts that you remove from the bumper.
I have a vacuum leak, I'm assuming it's my supercharger intake pipe, putting it into front end service mode at the moment.
You said mentioned fixing vacuum leaks, where else should I be looking for vacuum leaks while I have the front end off?
Very easy to follow and detailed guide. while I have the front end opened up is there any other small things like the crank position o ring that I should be taking care of? I notice I also have some oil build up behind the left fender lining do you know what this could be? Thanks for the guides!
+Oases Yes, do the o-ring. Left fender? That's the transmission side. no idea other than a bad axle.
+Mod MINI Thanks for your reply. Also when I'm putting the radiator and bumper liner back on, how can I tell which cables connect to which lights? Do I put them in depending on the length of the cable?
+Oases It's pretty obvious, but shortest goes to the horn, longest goes to the side marker. Medium length goes to the front position marker.
Okay I thought it was like that just wanted to make sure. My battery is dead with my car on jacks and no way to charge it so I couldnt test. Thanks for your reply!
What about the air conditioner condenser in front of the radiator?
superb video, thank you! will use this for my supercharger oil change (as well as your video for that!)
Thanks for the Video! Quick question, do you think this can be done without jacking the vehicle up? I don't want to have to buy the equipment if it is not necessary. Thanks for your time!
Very professional. Thankyou.
Hey there! I saw somewhere else that it is necessary to drain the air conditioning gas pipe to remove the radiator, but I didn’t catch that step in your video, is it really necessary? Or just by draining the coolant fluid is enough.
Big fan of your videos, I am grateful as everyone here for the big favor you are doing to our wallets
I do not open the system. Just hang condenser off to side.
Thank you for making this job so much faster and easier for me. I have a 2003 Mini S, 79.000 miles, with a blown head gasket and leaking at a water pump seal. Yesterday my son and I followed your video and removed the front end and the head. Ordering parts now and will put it back together in a week or two. Question, looking into the super charger inter-cooler we found a bunch of small thin plastic scraps at both ends blocking a lot of the air flow and have not figured out what it is or how it got there. Any Ideas?
In the intercooler? Never seen that.
Can you get to the starter easier by putting the car in Front end service ?
THANK YOU... I see on looking closer that you just swing it out of the way
Hi, the long bolt's you used to hold radiator on , what size are they, many thanks 👍 Stevie
Thank you for the example, bit different from my Subaru Imprezza, where it's a few bolts and out. GOT more work to do, I see.
@mod mini , thank you man...cheers from Mexico, Tijuana
What size bolts do you use to hold the radiator on when you put the car on service mode? 8mm by what thread pitch? 1.0, 1.25, etc.
Hi. Super helpful.
My car's radiator fan keeps running, the minute it is plugged in (even if the car is off). What would be your guess as to the problem (is it the resistor and should I be changing the whole fan assembly)?
Many thanks
Yes resistor. You can splice in another one (not officially approved repair method) or change the whole fan assembly.
My customer came to the shop with a leaking radiator on a 2003 Mini. No one in town would work on this car. Even with a hoist it took me all day to get to the radiator. Since then I have done a heater core, sucked! Thermostat, sucked! Heater hoses, Sucked. And know the ac condenser has been damaged from running into a stop curb in a parking lot! I have to tear the from end off to change that in the morning. Oops, start working on it in the morning. I'm sure it will be dark tomorrow before it's even close to being done!! But-- They are really good paying people!
Not fun the first time, but with practice, you can get the radiator completely off the car in around a half hour, thermostat 45 minutes or so. And hose clamp pliers are a must. amzn.to/1miUekA
Heater core... that's a headache on just about any car. Keep calm and carry on.
Looks like a lot of work......good job.
Very helpful video👍🏼
Question: do you need to de-gass the air-conditioning system for the frond end service mode?
No, just leave evaporator connected and hanging to the side.
Your videos are the best, man, thank you! Can you tell me what size bolts you're using to support the radiator?
I think M6 x 1.5
@@ModMINI thanks, man, I greatly appreciate it!
Just finished replacing my motor mount on my R53 with the help from one of your other videos. I have a few more things I have to do, one being to replace my Radiator Fan. I believe this video is the closest thing you have to showing how to replace it, but I'm sure it can't be too difficult. In your opinion, as I'm sure you've replaced a few, where would you recommend getting a new fan? I would prefer not to spend $300+ buying OEM but I also don't wan to purchase one that will burn out again in a couple months.
Not sure what is your question. If your fan is not working, you need to replace the fan. Any fan should be fine. You might be able to find one at a junkyard or on eBay if you don't want to buy a new one.
Mod MINI I went on RockAuto and they have a few fans on there cheaper than OEM but I wasn't sure if you had any brands you preferred or would avoid
Would the process be similar on a base 2009 mini? What should I look out for? Thanks for your help MOD MINI!
No, that is essentially a totally different car.
Miguel Avina this is for 2000 to about 2006
Thank u sir. Very much appreciated. Question? What size bolts do u use to screw in to take out the front end. Those two screws u used. Length and diameter. Thank u
I don't mention in the video? I think they should be M8 x 1.5, longest you can find.
love the videos, thank you for taking the time to post these. how do you recommend getting the mini on 4 jack stands? I'm relatively new to my r53 and am unaware of any jacking points other than the four points near the wheels. suggestions?
Hi I just finished taking the radiator off and I found a small black o ring that seemed to be in good condition on the ground. Any idea what that could be ?
Never mind I found them. Thank you
Thats an awesome DIY! Thanks. I have a question: my R53's cooling fan is wobbling too much (it looks like its hitting the surround). Can I remove the fan shroud with the fan by just moving the radiator that little bit forwards on studs like you did? Or would I need to remove the whole radiator and flush the system?
Radiator tips forward to remove fan. Might need to remove upper hose.
Thank you for this video.
If this car needed an alternator replacement, are the radiator hoses long enough to allow the radiator to be slid forward a sufficient distance for access to remove the alternator bolts or is complete radiator removal with disconnecting of radiator hoses inevitable?
Yes, the alternator can be replaced without cracking open the cooling system. I have video for an alternator replacement but haven't edited or posted the video yet. Essentially the steps are: disconnect battery, put car in front end service mode, loosen 10mm bolt for battery cable on alternator (use pair of pliers to prevent entire terminal from rotating at the same time), remove accessory belt, unclip regulator cable, remove 3 10mm bolts holding alternator on to engine block, assemble in reverse order.
what is the thread size and length of the bolts that you used to hold the radiator?
Now I’m ready to do my mini
Thanks for all the videos! I didn't see one for the reassembly though and it looks like there are some nuances to getting the radiator back on, functional, getting bubbles out, etc. I've been following you religiously the past few weeks since I inherited a 2004 Mini S and have been repairing it to pass inspection.
Anyways, do you have a reassembly video by chance?
+David Konopka Unfortunately not in one place. I show radiator bleed and front end assembly in several of my other videos. Sorry, I don't recall which, but should be some footage in most of the major engine/clutch repair videos.
I've got 4 seized crush tube bolts, is cutting the tube tabs at the metal or plastic rad support the way to go?
A friend is giving my brother a 2010 which needs an alternator... so thanks for this video. Looking forward to working on this car.. Any recommendations on the manufactuerer replacement parts.. replacing the alternator = new belt -- saw at Rock Auto a Gates HP racing belt... is this worth the extra $$, also tensioner puller + idler pully as well as the crankshaft position sensor that you mention?? Any other parts to change while "you can get to them" thanks.
2010 is a totally different car. This video won't help you. You don't need a racing belt and crank position sensors are not problematic on 2010. You may want to replace oil filter housing gasket which commonly leaks. It's behind the exhaust manifold (downpipe).
The car is about 50 miles away from where we live and tow prices are outrageous... Question -- If we throw a battery in.. and start it.. will trying to run it solely on a battery both a) work and b) potentially cause any engine damage?? c) any experience on possible how far one could get without an alternator thanks.
Maybe 5 miles without alternator...
Disconnected the head lights and got 30 miles before it ran down on a new battery.. thanks.
Nice video. Did you drain the A/C system?
What would you do if the heads of theT30 bolts in the middle that hold the plastic bumper snapped off and you can’t get the rest of it out?
Hello Mod Mini, First I would like to say thank you for the Videos they have help alot. since I bought my 2012 Mini Cooper S. I don't know if you will read this or not but can you a do a video with a 2010-2014 Mini Cooper Models. Every where I look there is only videos about 2002-6 on how to fix thing on your MIni But no 2010-2014 Mini How to's. well thank you again for the videos and keep it up.
+Mike C I have to wait until one breaks or needs a mod and someone brings me one.
Very good video, very useful!
you make it look so easy......well done :)
My bonnet’s latch on the right side of the vehicle (driver side) isn’t shutting all the way, do you know if it’s the latch or the cable that I will fix? Thanks for your videos!
Try adjusting your passenger-side latch upwards by a few millimeters. I had to deal with this same issue after replacing my driver- and passenger-side latches (the originals had gotten rusty and gross). After much trial and error, I realized that I had installed the passenger-side latch a few millimeters too low, which caused my bonnet to twist *just enough* upon closing to prevent it from fully latching on the driver-side.
Thank you for all of the videos you have posted. They are all very helpful. I was just wondering if you had any idea of a website that sells the wheel well plugs. I ruined a lot of mine when taking them out. Living in New England with all the salty roading in the winter really took a toll on this mini when my father owned it.
Do you mean the retainer clips? ECS Tuning should have them or your local dealer, or check out eBay... ecstuning.com
***** I think I found them on ebay, if those are the same "plastic lugs" in the wheel well liner. I store the car a few towns over from me so I can't look at them at the moment to be sure. I appreciate the quick response. thank you
Thanks for shearing this great video, I have a coolant leak problem from my R53, literally it leak from the connection part between the upper hose and the radiator, it looks like a hard plastic and fixed with the radiator. it's that possible to replace it?
L cyrus That's common on the 2003 and earlier. The radiator inlet is separate piece from the radiator. You might be able to pull and replace the o-ring, but no guarantee it will work and I've never seen this part available on its own. Plus, the plastic may flex with age. Recommended fix is a new radiator.
Yea, I've been looking for that connector for a while. Do you know the size of that o-ring? I can try replace it first rather than replace whole radiator.
L cyrus I don't know the size. It's skinnier than the general purpose ones that you can get at Harbor Freight.
I just replaced my coolant fan and it won't shut off. When i first bought it last year it would stay on for a new minutes after but would shut off. It died a month ago and i replaced it with a new one today. Now it see,s like it would run for hours until the battery died. Any suggestions, thank you
Good video! Now, a question... Where can I find OEM screws and bolts, as well as connectors for the bumper lights for my 2003 Mini? Some dude jumped the red light and clipped my car in an intersection and took the whole bumper away and took off... I gave chase and got him. Now, the insurance company will total the car and I plan to buy it back and fix it. So, anyplace to buy all the needed parts over the Internet at a good price?
+Adrian Mendoza You can buy most parts from the dealer but will be expensive. eBay and Amazon are good places to look for aftermarket parts. Nuts and bolts will be harder. Some are available from the dealer / online, some you are just going to have to find a suitable replacement. You might go to a local junkyard and take some nuts/bolts off various MINIs and BMWs. Go to realoem.com for an idea of what parts the dealer is likely to sell.
+Mod MINI Thank you very much!
Great video and narration :)
what length and diameter size are the 2 support bolts to hold the front bumper section please when I disassembling. If possible the diameter in millimetres where they screw in.
With this radiator pulled away but still attached by radiator hoses, would this give enough clearance to allow the low speed resistor to be changed?
regards
***** They should be M8 x 1.25 bolts, the longest you can find. Should be enough room to work on the fan resistor but the angles will be a little strange.
top bloke :) many thanks for your reply. Keep up the good work-we need you.
I found you don’t need any bolts. Just use a couple of long screwdrivers and slide them in. Worked just fine when I replaced my alternator.
what thread pitch and how long are those bolts you put in to hold the core support? to get to the crank o-ring?
For an alternator replacement do you think a tear down to this extent is necessary? This will be my first work on a Mini Cooper.
+Adam Barraclough You need to at least pull everything forward into FES mode, but not necessary to remove front end completely. For an R50, you can get it out just by removing the top radiator hose.
Thank you.
what do you mean, you have to put car in FES mode?
Hi mod mini! Would a 40mm radiator fit in nicely? Thank you!!
"front end service mode" is just a term used when you have to work on this area of the car? im new to minis
Yes.
Gracias por estos aportes amigo!!!!! ami y al Club nos ayudara mucho...
:-)
*****
Hi Kurt
I was seeing your videos on you tube, which by the way I find them really great and very helpful.
Many years ago I use to modified street cars, alpine, R-5 & R-8 Renault for racing, and I use to race them to. They were a totally different cars and motors that they are now. I have a mini cooper S 2005 with heating problem, very unusual for my understanding, because I was driving the car for several weeks with no problem most of the time, but some times it was getting hot, not every time just some times, until my wife drove it very hot and the radiator now has a leak. So I want to fix it, of course changing the radiator, but most important trying to find the problem.What do you think the problem could be? the pump can not make an intermittent
heating problem?maybe the thermostat or the heating sensor that turns on the electric fan, to me the electric fan seems working properly. Because of the complexity to reach all those areas I think I'm going to change the pump, the thermostat and probably the electric fan sensor. Please give your advise, and tell me if you know and can recommend those parts brands:
Nissens for Radiator
Mac kay for coolant hoses
Wahler for thermostat
Graf for water pump
or what brands do you recommend ?
If you are not to busy and you can answer me I will deeply appreciate it.
Very best regards
Joaquin
Joaquin Balaguer Most leak is from the thermostat housing. Other possibility is radiator itself, water pump, water pump inlet gasket, or maybe a head gasket problem. I usually just choose OEM or OEM equivalent for the brands, making sure not to pick the cheapest supplier.
Very helpful! Thank you for sharing!
Hi Kurt, I’d like to buy the bolts you used to be able to pull the radiator forward. Do you know the specs of those bolts?
No issues moving the AC hard lines ?
Wao! Now I know how expensive could get to work on them.
What size are the 2 bolts used to slide out the radiator
Hey man what’s going on ?👍🏿👍🏿 for all you videos I become very knowledgeable about my mini hard top R53 04 thanks to your vid now it time for a new supercharger and I was thinking going a different way with a turbo. Now I’d like to know if u have an idea about the r50 mini air intake manifold and the r53s will it fit if I take out my supercharger everything else
Wow. An r50 intake would bolt right up but I don't know if it has the right strength or airflow capacity/characteristics to handle something like a turbo. You would also need an aftermarket ECU, custom exhaust manifold, probably a front mount intercooler, electric water pump, etc. This would not be a project for the faint of heart and certainly not recommended for a daily driver. Probably best to use a proven kit.
Thanks for responding so quickly now I c it done a few vid on RUclips and all like if u look for r53 turbo I’m not looking fo big power it just that my supercharger is going bad and it expensive to get a rebuilt one and I love my mini I’m going to all d r50 stuff like water pump intake manifold now would d r53 injectors fit on d r50 intake manifold
Look, it's going to be a lot cheaper to just replace the supercharger. Look on ebay, used ones are cheaper than you think. Replace the supercharger oil and the supercharger will outlast the remaining life of your engine. If you try to build a turbo setup yourself you are going to run into all kinds of engineering problems. Such a project will easily cost thousands of USD.
Thanks so much for your help I will keep d info mind and again for the video they saved me a lot of money 💰 thanks.
Thanks for your videos. They are helping me a lot with my R50.
Just a Quick question @Mod Mini, Is there a way to replace the knock Sensor Without having to put the Car in Front End Service Mode?
As R50 does not have the Super Charger, it is possible to see the Knock, but i'm afraid of taking it out and then having suffer to put the new one in the proper position.
For R50, remove intake manifold to replace knock sensor .I don't know if it can be done without service mode. Not hard to put back in proper position. just bolt it up in the same hole you took it out. The orientation is not important other than to keep wire from rubbing on something.
@@ModMINI Thanks for your feedback... Your videos are amazing, keep making them. I couldn't figure out a way to replace the sensor without service mode, although its a very easy replacement, the sensor location is not helpfull. I took the chance and replaced the AC Bearing
What are the length an size of the 2 bolts used to slide into service mode an any idea where you can purchase?
You are the man!
In this video you mentioned the Knock Sensor. Did you make another video covering this? I'm getting code P0326 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1). This is all foreign to me so after getting the front end off I'd be confused on what to do next.
Thanks in advance.
Hi. No other video, but knock sensor is directly behind the supercharger. You can see the wire on the front of the intake manifold but the supercharger has to come off to get to it. Check my supercharger oil service video. MINI Cooper S Supercharger Oil Service R53 Eaton M45
*****
Ok, thanks for that information.