Not only did this video help me with replacing the same part today, the fact that you used your dipstick oil to lubricate a fitting has lead me to subscribe to your channel.
I had all of these problems on my Mk5 too. It’s much easier if you take of the vacuum pump (the thing that you thought was the high pressure fuel pump). The o-ring on the vacuum pump is a common oil leak anyways. The leaking vacuum pump o-ring likely caused the coolant flange to fail. It is also a smart idea to pre-emptively buy a brake booster hose kit. And a new coolant connector piece as these are known failure points as well. Nice looking car. It looks well loved and taken care of.
I will check into the vacuum pump O-ring which is probably my oil leak and look for a brake booster hose kit. Thanks for the tips. My experience is mostly with the Mk1 and Mk2 cars which are all just about gone now.
Thanks for the video man. My car recently started leaking from the bottom ports on the flange. What really happened = was cruising down the highway at 60-75 km/h and a stone hit the first car then hit my car and went under. Ever since, the coolant reservoir/bottle has been found leaking from the top rubber pipe on the reservoir. Doesn’t seem cracked though, neither do the flanges on the side of the engine (same flange in the video) but it seems it’s leaking on the reservoir as well as both the bottom pipes on the flange. From both the in and out on the flange and leaking onto the transmission or the mounting point of the transmission + engine. I’m guessing some pressure build up that’s forcing water out. But I top up every few days, and keep driving it slow. After the stone had hit prior to all these faults, the damage was the front (mainly the AC condenser, Intercooler and maybe radiator) - can a broken radiator cause this? But radiator don’t seem to be leaking. Maybe the compression of the radiator upon impact forced liquid out and now there’s a passage? Or maybe some seal broke? Don’t know. Still prepping myself to send it in for a check up.
Video was helpful. Reattaching everything was a huge pain. Took like 6 hours. Wear gloves thats what i found out after. I have a ton of micro cuts on my hands now. Also, I have no clue how you did this without removing the battery or vacuum housing…
Good presentation, need to tackle it soon as i have s slow leak. Why not remove the battery and the vacuum pump? That would have provided enough access to make this job less painful.
Looking back I probably could have done that. I did not want to cause any other issues or leaks by removing the vacuum pump since I did not have any other parts. Although I should probably fix that leak soon.
@@bryansprojects3570 Fair enough. Finished this y'day on a 06' Passat and this video was very helpful in planning and figuring out what to expect.. For anyone else looking to do it on a 2.0T traverse engine (VW), removing the battery, battery tray and the vacuum pump provides a whole lot more workspace and allows you to eyeball the flange. This can be helpful it is broken at the point of contact with the housing. No issue if the entire flange comes out intact. Mine was broken and unless I was looking at it, I would not have known that the remnants were stuck inside , they were like fused, no surprise on a 16 year old car. Time wise, removing the tray/vacuum pump adds around 30 mins to your project and if do it then its a good time to inspect and change the transmission mount which is right under the battery tray. One of the rear hose connecting the flange to the heater core is a pain to get to and release. Space is tight and getting a plier to remove the clamps is incredibly difficult. To avoid that, with the flange still bolted on, disconnect all front hoses (two coolant and one vacuum) and one rear coolant hose, the one towards the battery and visible, and then unbolt the flange and pull it back from the housing. That should give you enough room to twist and turn the flange, providing access to the other rear hose clamp. When putting it back, first connect the same rear hose, the last one to be removed while the flange is unbolted, clamp it and then mount and bolt the flange. The flange screws will be slippery due to being soaked with residual coolant , use some brake cleaner or similar to clean them up before mounting.
Not only did this video help me with replacing the same part today, the fact that you used your dipstick oil to lubricate a fitting has lead me to subscribe to your channel.
Thanks for subscribing!
I had all of these problems on my Mk5 too.
It’s much easier if you take of the vacuum pump (the thing that you thought was the high pressure fuel pump). The o-ring on the vacuum pump is a common oil leak anyways.
The leaking vacuum pump o-ring likely caused the coolant flange to fail.
It is also a smart idea to pre-emptively buy a brake booster hose kit. And a new coolant connector piece as these are known failure points as well.
Nice looking car. It looks well loved and taken care of.
I will check into the vacuum pump O-ring which is probably my oil leak and look for a brake booster hose kit. Thanks for the tips. My experience is mostly with the Mk1 and Mk2 cars which are all just about gone now.
Thanks for the video man. My car recently started leaking from the bottom ports on the flange.
What really happened = was cruising down the highway at 60-75 km/h and a stone hit the first car then hit my car and went under. Ever since, the coolant reservoir/bottle has been found leaking from the top rubber pipe on the reservoir. Doesn’t seem cracked though, neither do the flanges on the side of the engine (same flange in the video) but it seems it’s leaking on the reservoir as well as both the bottom pipes on the flange. From both the in and out on the flange and leaking onto the transmission or the mounting point of the transmission + engine.
I’m guessing some pressure build up that’s forcing water out. But I top up every few days, and keep driving it slow.
After the stone had hit prior to all these faults, the damage was the front (mainly the AC condenser, Intercooler and maybe radiator) - can a broken radiator cause this? But radiator don’t seem to be leaking. Maybe the compression of the radiator upon impact forced liquid out and now there’s a passage? Or maybe some seal broke? Don’t know. Still prepping myself to send it in for a check up.
Thanks for the video, it helped me fix the broken Coolant flange on my 2008 Audi A3 with the same engine 2.0 L TFSI BPY.
Video was helpful. Reattaching everything was a huge pain. Took like 6 hours. Wear gloves thats what i found out after. I have a ton of micro cuts on my hands now. Also, I have no clue how you did this without removing the battery or vacuum housing…
Another ingeniously developed part by automotive ingeneers!
Thanks mister Bryan i had the exact problem and you helped me 🙏🏼god bless you
Thank you, a big help
Thanks for the video, it really helped!!
Where was the location of the leak. I have an coolant leak near the dv and subframe. Wondering if it could be this
I was adding coolant regularly and finally noticed the top of the transmission was wet.
Good presentation, need to tackle it soon as i have s slow leak.
Why not remove the battery and the vacuum pump? That would have provided enough access to make this job less painful.
Looking back I probably could have done that. I did not want to cause any other issues or leaks by removing the vacuum pump since I did not have any other parts. Although I should probably fix that leak soon.
@@bryansprojects3570 Fair enough. Finished this y'day on a 06' Passat and this video was very helpful in planning and figuring out what to expect..
For anyone else looking to do it on a 2.0T traverse engine (VW), removing the battery, battery tray and the vacuum pump provides a whole lot more workspace and allows you to eyeball the flange. This can be helpful it is broken at the point of contact with the housing. No issue if the entire flange comes out intact. Mine was broken and unless I was looking at it, I would not have known that the remnants were stuck inside , they were like fused, no surprise on a 16 year old car.
Time wise, removing the tray/vacuum pump adds around 30 mins to your project and if do it then its a good time to inspect and change the transmission mount which is right under the battery tray.
One of the rear hose connecting the flange to the heater core is a pain to get to and release. Space is tight and getting a plier to remove the clamps is incredibly difficult. To avoid that, with the flange still bolted on, disconnect all front hoses (two coolant and one vacuum) and one rear coolant hose, the one towards the battery and visible, and then unbolt the flange and pull it back from the housing. That should give you enough room to twist and turn the flange, providing access to the other rear hose clamp.
When putting it back, first connect the same rear hose, the last one to be removed while the flange is unbolted, clamp it and then mount and bolt the flange. The flange screws will be slippery due to being soaked with residual coolant , use some brake cleaner or similar to clean them up before mounting.
What is the name of that bottom hose you clapping at 15:16 i need that mine is leaking
Not really sure the name. you should be able to look it up by a diagram.
Thats a vaccum pump not high pressure punp
I can not get the sensor back in with the clip on at all
The seal may be swollen.
Does anyone have a specific part number for this?
I believe there is a link in the video description.
What is the part number?
amzn.to/46V9KSY
This is one option.
Here is another part number;
06F121132H