I'm about to take this job on this weekend, great video - thank you! I also learned that you can bleed with engine idling. I've always bled with engine off and cold. And then I run it up to temp and bleed from the heater core hose while the engine is running.
I have the same issue with my 2008 2.0 liter. I got an ECT code a couple years ago so I replaced the sensor in your video. Everything seemed to be good for a while but now the whole area is leaking. I might have botched the ECT job so I'm giving the coolant flange repair to the dealer this time. Thanks for the video! Figuring this one out was frustrating. No drips! The leaking coolant evaporates instantly due to all of the hot parts in the vicinity.
couldnt have done it without this video. thank you quick tip for everyone: (13:11) mention when removing the jubilee clip holding to the largest piping on the flange, I found it easiest to use some hose clamp pliers after twisting and bending the thick hose so that the assembly was above the engine so you have access to the clip. Other wise you are guessing where the spring elements are , as they are underneath the hose and not visible.
Great video, no wonder I couldn't see it just looking into the engine bay! Great car but strange engineering. This will be a great help when I change mine
Allow plenty of time, make sure you have everything you need for the job and think about all the money you will save by not having to pay labour charges! It needn’t be a nightmare.
@autoknight747 hey thanks for replying. I managed to get to the flunge but having trune disconnecting the hose thats connected to it any advice would be much appreciated 👍
@@Savage_K if it’s the lower connection, removal of the metal clip will enable release of the hose. In terms of the side connection, sometimes it’s easier to disconnect the hose at the other, more accessible end and then remove the flange complete with hose still attached. Then swap it over to the new flange while off the car and easier to access. They are spring clips and made way easier by having the correct tool.
@@anastasiosdelimpaltidis A cold heater is frequently a symptom of trapped air. It is important to ensure the system is bled correctly, as trapped air in some areas of the coolant jacket around the engine will result in coolant not reaching critical areas with the risk of overheating and engine damage.
Those electrical connectors are a right sod to unplug! How did you make it look so easy? 🙂 My wife's car has the same engine and when I replaced the sensor, the earth pin didn't make contact and gave all sorts of odd effects. When you reconnect it, make sure all four contacts are in place. Cheers!
Great vid 👍 I don’t think we got the 1.8t in the b7 in the US, you’re fortunate as the 2.0t seems problematic (maybe it’s just the early ones that had excessive oil consumption). Cheers 👍
I've seen this in several cars and now my nextdoor neighbors 04. Most I've seen seem to be caused by the cam seals or other related seals like the valve cover gasket leaking. They leak oil on that plastic coolant manifold which cause the plastic and rubber to swell leading to coolant leaks. Basically a whole bunch of little things. Ugghh fml
I can't figure out why everyone goes at this from the passenger side? This took me 1.5 hours to do from the drivers side, only removing the coolant tank and part of the breather hose assembly with three hose clamps and nothing else. One of the easier jobs I've ever done on this engine lol.
Haha, next time I do one of these I’ll give that a go. To be fair, had I not had the added inconvenience of filming, I’d have had it done in under an hour but then there would have been no video!
@@TwoCowzBrowze If I was performing a full coolant change I probably would but otherwise the removal of the hoses and flange will allow coolant to drain to that level on the engine, leaving the level below that intact.
Just a question, was it in the end the flange itself or the cooling Hose with the little metal spring in it? I heared it multiple times that not the flange failed but the Hose with the molded Plastic Part. Thx in advance
@@autoknight747 cheers thank you . Did you have trouble finding the part ?! Just spent most of the day trying to get the part, some i can get next day delivery but i think they are for transversely mounted engines, these seem to have a different part number which is taking days to get hold of ! 🙄😡
@@autoknight747 Had to order one from the main dealer. I've started to take things apart, i'm down to the coolant flange without losing mt temper or too much skin !. I've take the metal retaining clip off the heater bottom hose but can't get the hose off. Does it just pull off after that ? Is there any tabs that need to be unclipped before sliding off ? Bugger doesn't seem to want to shift !
Did any1 experience temp gauge not passing 70degrease? Because of this issue?? I can see i have the leak, car wont go over 70degrease from videos iv watched this is why . . ??
I'm about to take this job on this weekend, great video - thank you! I also learned that you can bleed with engine idling. I've always bled with engine off and cold. And then I run it up to temp and bleed from the heater core hose while the engine is running.
Great Video, i saved myself a lot of money with it 👍
I have the same issue with my 2008 2.0 liter. I got an ECT code a couple years ago so I replaced the sensor in your video. Everything seemed to be good for a while but now the whole area is leaking. I might have botched the ECT job so I'm giving the coolant flange repair to the dealer this time. Thanks for the video!
Figuring this one out was frustrating. No drips! The leaking coolant evaporates instantly due to all of the hot parts in the vicinity.
couldnt have done it without this video. thank you
quick tip for everyone: (13:11) mention
when removing the jubilee clip holding to the largest piping on the flange, I found it easiest to use some hose clamp pliers after twisting and bending the thick hose so that the assembly was above the engine so you have access to the clip. Other wise you are guessing where the spring elements are , as they are underneath the hose and not visible.
Great video, no wonder I couldn't see it just looking into the engine bay! Great car but strange engineering. This will be a great help when I change mine
Absolutely brilliant video. Done everything step by step. Hats off to you. Thank you so much
Thank you for your valuable video. It's very helpful for me.
Am going threw the same issue not looking forward to doing it looks like a nightmare 🙃. Thank you for the video
Allow plenty of time, make sure you have everything you need for the job and think about all the money you will save by not having to pay labour charges! It needn’t be a nightmare.
@autoknight747 hey thanks for replying. I managed to get to the flunge but having trune disconnecting the hose thats connected to it any advice would be much appreciated 👍
@@Savage_K if it’s the lower connection, removal of the metal clip will enable release of the hose. In terms of the side connection, sometimes it’s easier to disconnect the hose at the other, more accessible end and then remove the flange complete with hose still attached. Then swap it over to the new flange while off the car and easier to access. They are spring clips and made way easier by having the correct tool.
Tesadüf bu video çıktı karşıma..aynı arıza benim araçta tamiri yapılıyor 😅2007 model 1.8t sline
Thank you very much, very good video 👍
Thank you very much for the video. I also changed this spare part on my car. But there's cold air in my cabin right now. Maybe change the sensor?
@@anastasiosdelimpaltidis A cold heater is frequently a symptom of trapped air. It is important to ensure the system is bled correctly, as trapped air in some areas of the coolant jacket around the engine will result in coolant not reaching critical areas with the risk of overheating and engine damage.
@@autoknight747 thanks a lot 👍😎
9:14 recommend to replace the heater core hose with O-ring inside of it... and other O-rings all around. No RTV applied
Those electrical connectors are a right sod to unplug! How did you make it look so easy? 🙂 My wife's car has the same engine and when I replaced the sensor, the earth pin didn't make contact and gave all sorts of odd effects. When you reconnect it, make sure all four contacts are in place. Cheers!
I would go for aftermarket aluminium flange(Chinese) with OEM O-rings
Great vid 👍 I don’t think we got the 1.8t in the b7 in the US, you’re fortunate as the 2.0t seems problematic (maybe it’s just the early ones that had excessive oil consumption). Cheers 👍
Thank you! Yes the 2.0 was a problem for some. I’ve always been a fan of the 1.8T engine, especially in the smaller VW Golf and SEAT Leon.
accuatly this is Audi A4 B6 1.8T ,,anyway thanks for the video ,,good job .
Thank you. It is most definitely a B7 which was essentially a facelift of the B6. It is definitely not a B6!
I have a b7 a4 with the 1.8t but I do set angine parts shopping up for the b6 to get the engine option
What is the tightening torque for the screws?
Surprised you didn’t change the coolant temperature sensor while you had the opportunity, that seems to go quite often.
Was my friend’s car, so I just replaced what he asked!
I've seen this in several cars and now my nextdoor neighbors 04. Most I've seen seem to be caused by the cam seals or other related seals like the valve cover gasket leaking. They leak oil on that plastic coolant manifold which cause the plastic and rubber to swell leading to coolant leaks. Basically a whole bunch of little things. Ugghh fml
I can't figure out why everyone goes at this from the passenger side? This took me 1.5 hours to do from the drivers side, only removing the coolant tank and part of the breather hose assembly with three hose clamps and nothing else. One of the easier jobs I've ever done on this engine lol.
Haha, next time I do one of these I’ll give that a go. To be fair, had I not had the added inconvenience of filming, I’d have had it done in under an hour but then there would have been no video!
do I need to drain all the coolant to perform this job?
@@TwoCowzBrowze If I was performing a full coolant change I probably would but otherwise the removal of the hoses and flange will allow coolant to drain to that level on the engine, leaving the level below that intact.
Just a question, was it in the end the flange itself or the cooling Hose with the little metal spring in it? I heared it multiple times that not the flange failed but the Hose with the molded Plastic Part. Thx in advance
It was the flange in the end and the hose was fine. It didn’t lose a drop of coolant after the repair!
@@autoknight747 great, thanks for the Info and for the great Video, helps a lot!
What tool did you use to cut the metal clips ? I had to cut one once and used about 4 different tools - took me ages !!
I usually use side cutters for this. Decent sharp Knipex ones.
@@autoknight747 cheers thank you . Did you have trouble finding the part ?! Just spent most of the day trying to get the part, some i can get next day delivery but i think they are for transversely mounted engines, these seem to have a different part number which is taking days to get hold of ! 🙄😡
@@simonblatcher6865 They had a few in stock at the dealership. They said they sell a lot.
@@autoknight747 Had to order one from the main dealer. I've started to take things apart, i'm down to the coolant flange without losing mt temper or too much skin !. I've take the metal retaining clip off the heater bottom hose but can't get the hose off. Does it just pull off after that ? Is there any tabs that need to be unclipped before sliding off ? Bugger doesn't seem to want to shift !
I did mine the other day after pipe cracked....didn't remove even half of what you took off
How did u do it?
Guys they sale a permanent fix for this just buy the aluminum version takes like 30m to switch out and ur done .
Did any1 experience temp gauge not passing 70degrease? Because of this issue?? I can see i have the leak, car wont go over 70degrease from videos iv watched this is why . . ??
Failure to reach normal operating temperature is often due to the thermostat. It may need replacing.
What is the tightening torque for the screws?