I’d recommend a good torque arm, try Grin Technologies model V5. It has an adjustable inner piece that is “geared” to fit into the outer arm body-they must have bought the concept out from a British manufacturer because it’s the same basic abrasive high pressure water cut system-I don’t give a 💩, it’s simply brilliant!
Are they both the same watt kit? I bought a Japau kit and it is basic of cables with just 1 issue of the front 1500 watt of the disc brake side for the bolts had a tad of scraping which was easy fix by sanding down a tad of that area. I plan on getting rear hub and sticking to same company due to the easy set up of controller wires.
Firstly, I'm guessing that the kits you purchased were significantly cheaper than some of the higher-end conversion kits available! As such I think you need to consider how the manufacturer manages to keep the cost of the kit lower than others on the market. One way of doing this is by using cheaper consumables for example basic Zip Ties. They could have supplied releasable Zip Ties but they are considerably more expensive and this would be reflected in the price of the kit. I would recommend using 'Electrical Tape' which I think looks better and is very cheap to buy. Regarding the Wheel Nut unfortunately you have caused that problem yourself. I appreciate you needed to put an extra spacer in to stop the wheel binding, but by doing so you have reduced the amount of thread the nut can use. If you look at the end of the spindle you will see that it is slightly tapered. This means by design you need to have a certain amount of thread to the outer side of the nut to achieve its designed thread tension. Lastly, I assume you purchased 2 separate kits for your 2 wheel drive beast and these would have included a throttle for each controller. Hence, are the throttles supplied with the kits the same? If not that is the reason they're not compatible. I should also point out that I think you're getting a bit confused with your Male/Female connections and that really could cause trouble! Good luck with the build hopefully you can get it all sorted!
i had to order a 3rd party replacement throttle for my voilamart ebike. The connector has 6 cables and it does power up the display but not the motor. The connector wires are different colors. Is there a reset function on these motors?
STOP !!!your back wheel Will spin right of your frame. As soon as you hit the throttle.!!!ruin your day as wire will be destroyed if you try to tighten up that nut you will destroy the threads and make you say bad words!!! And the gap you have between the sprocket and frame is was to large. Do you have proper tork arm??? So fix all that before worrieing about cheap disposable 5 cent zap straps FFS
I'm not happy with this ebike dule wheel 48 volt and dule battery system with dule controller boxes I even separated them and no power what a disappointment
![Installing a Voilamart 1000 Watt Rear Hub Motor Kit [Quickly]](/img/1.gif)
That's because one is designed led display the other one is only designed to display on the throttle
your front wheel is upside down, wire needs to come out the bottom to keep water out of wheel.
I’d recommend a good torque arm, try Grin Technologies model V5.
It has an adjustable
inner piece that is “geared” to fit into the outer arm body-they must have bought the concept out from a British manufacturer because it’s the same basic abrasive high pressure water cut system-I don’t give a 💩, it’s simply brilliant!
Are they both the same watt kit? I bought a Japau kit and it is basic of cables with just 1 issue of the front 1500 watt of the disc brake side for the bolts had a tad of scraping which was easy fix by sanding down a tad of that area. I plan on getting rear hub and sticking to same company due to the easy set up of controller wires.
Firstly, I'm guessing that the kits you purchased were significantly cheaper than some of the higher-end conversion kits available! As such I think you need to consider how the manufacturer manages to keep the cost of the kit lower than others on the market. One way of doing this is by using cheaper consumables for example basic Zip Ties. They could have supplied releasable Zip Ties but they are considerably more expensive and this would be reflected in the price of the kit. I would recommend using 'Electrical Tape' which I think looks better and is very cheap to buy. Regarding the Wheel Nut unfortunately you have caused that problem yourself. I appreciate you needed to put an extra spacer in to stop the wheel binding, but by doing so you have reduced the amount of thread the nut can use. If you look at the end of the spindle you will see that it is slightly tapered. This means by design you need to have a certain amount of thread to the outer side of the nut to achieve its designed thread tension. Lastly, I assume you purchased 2 separate kits for your 2 wheel drive beast and these would have included a throttle for each controller. Hence, are the throttles supplied with the kits the same? If not that is the reason they're not compatible. I should also point out that I think you're getting a bit confused with your Male/Female connections and that really could cause trouble! Good luck with the build hopefully you can get it all sorted!
What battery are you using?
i had to order a 3rd party replacement throttle for my voilamart ebike. The connector has 6 cables and it does power up the display but not the motor. The connector wires are different colors. Is there a reset function on these motors?
It’s been a real headache I been changing everything buying new stuff.I would suggest to anyone to buy this kit .
How many battery's do you want
you have two hub motors on that things. How fast will that go?
speed is limited by the motor RPM. Just because you have 2 doesn't make top speed faster. 2 motors do make for much more acceleration, though.
1 the wheele where is supposed to be forward and the controleer isnt for a sw900 its for a throttle screen
Looks kinda hack job install..
Voilamar.......t 😂 brillaint
I put together one of there ebike set ups and it won't even turn on either one of the set ups
Yeah I found that out thru trail and error it was the throttle really cheap kit
You got issues!!!!
Looks like a death trap to me mate
Velcro strips
STOP !!!your back wheel Will spin right of your frame. As soon as you hit the throttle.!!!ruin your day as wire will be destroyed if you try to tighten up that nut you will destroy the threads and make you say bad words!!! And the gap you have between the sprocket and frame is was to large. Do you have proper tork arm??? So fix all that before worrieing about cheap disposable 5 cent zap straps FFS
I'm not happy with this ebike dule wheel 48 volt and dule battery system with dule controller boxes I even separated them and no power what a disappointment
What does 'dule' mean? Is it the same as 'Dual' or maybe 'Duel'!!?
Yeah your better off spending extra cash for a quality kit .
So…..what your saying is that you have gay controllers ☹️ dude that’s messed up 🤭😟
I have the same problem as you.
Controller 5 wire's, male.
Throttle 6 wire's, male.
How did you resolve the problem.
Kind regards .
Paul.
just join the correspond colour of each and, connecting it via solder joints, sort out the white cable and try it out
@@salviaaable so you 6 wires to 5 wires did it work ?
One is for LCD display 6 wires the other one is for display on the throttle 5 wires
the 5 wire plug is for the SW900 display, and not the throttle
The 6th cable in some controllers is sometimes a speed sensor. On the ones I have seen it is white and optional
This video has to be a joke
So…..what your saying is that you have gay controllers ☹️ dude that’s messed up 🤭😟