For drivers in my opinion are the best they are the best controllers and most easiest to program to get your system running together and talking him together as one no matter what you have great content.
it could depend on your controllers features, 0 power setting by default will not allow throttle input so do you have a display that allows power settings?
Thanks for this. I have a golf skateboard and one of the controllers is just making a beeping sound. I think it has a power related issue from the smaller throttle lines. I’ll connect it all up and try to cross the yellow to the red and see if I can get it working. Then I’ll know what to do next.
I do not have PAS after installing the 35A KT controller onto a Radrunner 2. The factory PAS wired are Red White Black. The controller wires for PAS are Black Brown Yellow. Does anyone know which goes to which? Also my bike hall sensor has 6 wires but the controller only has 5. I have a white wire left. What do I connect it to?
I have an electric bike but I'm skeptical about the battery connection because I have a 48V 13ah and a 48V 21ah extended-range battery. The standard battery will last from 4-6 hours, and the extended-range battery will last from 16 + hours based on the 50 - 90 miles of range. What battery connection would I need to reconnect to get a normal battery reading from the display?
I added a tail/head/turn signal kit to my eBike conversion. I have everything plugged in except for power. There is a molex with a red and black coming from the controller. From the light kit there is a small molex with a yellow and black wire. I want to change the molex on the controller and the light kit to match and then plug them in. Question is, are these indeed the power wires and how would I match up the controller red/black to the light kit yellow/black? I have a voltmeter but not sure how to check voltage.
are there cables adapters for this to put this on waterproof julet connectors ? and display - nc81f ? or are there adapter cables for the fardriver? to julet waterproofed cable?
maybe you can help me. I bought a City Coco E-Chopper a few months back. I just spent several months refurbishing it and spent most of my savings. I finally got it assembled and took it for a cruise. It was awesome! I rode it for most of the day. In the evening I took it to do my laundry. After my laundry was dry I went outside to discover when I turned the key, everything worked but the current that was supposed to flow to the motor. I have a serious heart condition and was pleasantly surprised when a couple with a pickup offered to haul it home for me. I have spent the last few days dissassembling it and reassembling it over and over again. I have watched every RUclips video including yours but have found no answers. I bought a couple extra controllers off tyhe internet a couple months ago and tried hooking them up to the bike, and get nothing. There is no wiring diagram. I cannot even get them to turn on. Can I send my controllers in to you to look at?
Good Morning. I have a problem with the display on my Hover E 1 electric scooter. I need information connecting unlabled connectors on the bottom of the scooter can I get some help
A have a question. I have a e bike scooter 500w motor 48v with 4 battery pack 12v 20ah. Can I add an extra battery In series? The controller can handle 60 v without burnout. Thanks
Great video ! Very useful. What is the match setting between the controller and the hub motor! I replace the controller of my scooter. The hub motor is a QS 72v 2000w; the new controller is 36 to 84 Volts, 45 - 50 Amp 2500w power. With the motor lifted works fine but when put on field it makes a loud electrical noice from the hub motor. Any advice is very welcome!
Awesome video man! Got a ? if you don't mind. I have the ienyrid es10 2000w 48v electric scooter with dual 1000w brushless motors and I'm needing to replace the controller. Do you know what type I would work? there's so many different options!😬
To reverse a brush less motor, swap over any 2 of the 3 power / phase wires. This trick is used in model aircraft. My problem is connecting the display screen, the wires match the 5 signal wires from the motor but I don't have anything to connect to? This is not complicated and I'm not dumb but I'm really puzzled by not being able to see the correct wires. I have 2 controller boxes, 2 displays and one wheel. 😂
anyway to bypass DYU V8 governess of speed 28mph (limitations) that this bike has, caps out, any way to remove this restriction? if not what would be an alternative, replace the controller?
If im seeing an error 10 code and my bike won't work. And neither will my headlight but at one point the bike worked for a brief time then back to nothing. I also have jacked up breaks and a broken pedal assistant thing. What do you think is the problem.
FFM, that was an excellent break down and run through of components and what they do.. I'm not sure how I got here, but, stayed for 3 reasons.. 1: Your voice sounds almost identical to the voice of George Knapp. [He's a living legend] 2: I attempted to compare the constrollers you mention to those I've used in the past.. [Before RC "drones" where a known/popular thing I used to design/buld them] [Flight Control Boards usually have digital Cumpasses, Gyros, and Magnetometers] [E-bike/scooter/unicycle CBs apparently only utilize the Gyro] Interesting.. 3: Your demonstrations/explanations where Awesome. [Valuable to those learning] I just have one slight issue.. As someone w/ 30ish years experience in professionally wiring, painting, photo&editing... I'm Colorblind! Talk about a pain.. Especially when they use multicolors on a single wire housing.. 😁
I was hooking up a brake light to my display wires and heard a pop when I turned the key on. Now can’t figure out if I blew up the controller or the throttle because now I have no power at all. Any advice??
Do you know what size the battery wires are ? Im ordering the 120p watt voilamart kit. They said its a 2.5 mm bullet but from what ive seen most are 4 mm. Arent they? I think regular mp3 headphones are 3.5 i can see my 48 v 1000watt 25ah battery going through a 2.5mm maybe im wrong
this helped me a lot!! thank you. my only issue is that my bike gets top speed 10mph and then shuts down. any help here? southern california, went from 36v to 48v (like originally should be)
Do you possibly have a wire diagram for a UD3-UL controller? I got a new throttle with led with key and trying to connect wires that aren’t the same color.
My e-bike (a volt pulse) is having a error 30 problem. The controller has a cable from the battery, a cable to the motor, 2 cables to the brakes, a cable to the digital screen, a cable from the pick-up sensor and a cable for the lights. Should i be able to run the bike without the lights and brakes connected?
@douglastoal513 - If you haven't already done so unplug one item at a time (not the display) and ending up with the motor until the Communication Error 30 goes away and then replace the item you last unplugged that cleared the error. Mine unfortunately did not clear and failed to recognize when I unplugged the motor so I ended up having to replace the controller however I found a local shop that had a working OEM controller with all the matching water resistant Juliet/Barrel connectors that had been pulled from a wrecked bike at a fraction of the cost of a new OEM controller. Cost less than $50 to get the bike running like new compared to $150+ for the OEM controller or $400+ for a new motor. Now that I have the immediate problem solved I still might see if I can adapt a universal 48 volt controller that can be had for less than $25 by swapping out the OEM cable ends from the failed controller I replaced just to have a spare and as a learning exercise. If you've narrowed it down to the brakes and lights you might have a dirty connection on one of the brake levers, a dirty/failing brake switch, headlight/taillight harness connector issue or a faulty LED board in the I'm going to guess taillight since the headlight is not linked to the brakes. Personally I would not ride without a brake light or taillight especially here with all the tourists driving about. Best!
I have an Ebike, it's a Aielec Af7 electric bike and I don't know what to do with the wire connectors because the color coded wires aren't the same color and I need help.
I'm trying to convert my whole ebike system to an electric motor from an e scooter but the motor is brushed and only a red and black wire. how or is it possible to do that?
Can anyone please tell me what a pointer meter line is, i have a cheapo Chinese controller that hws a 😮single wire for the lcd which I think is going to stay disconnected im pretty sure that I have got everything else worked out but haven't had time to connect it all together yet but this single wire pointer meter wire is either a different name 5o what i call the wires or is something that I haven't come across before, I must admit it is driving me crazy i usually use Sw-900lcd and controller or TF100 lcd with inbuilt throttle and matching controller, i have a feeling this controller may be analogue if that makes sense but I don't care i just need to be able to turn it on throttle and go a screen doesnt matter on this bike
Heya, so see that big battery with the usb diagnosed port. Are you able to put them in any scooter. Mine is a kirkin m4 and goes 48 max. Only on a nice day with no wind but gets slower much quicker than i thought it would. Is there any way i could make it faster or could you advise me on battery that would make that model faster
Whats the problem, you can't turn it on at all. Battery is new and checks out with good voltage, on, not hooked up . Hook it up to the controller, turn on the battery, The battery makes a sound like it turns the battery off, maybe?. Press the button that tells you how much battery you got left. Doesn't even lights up one bar. Like it's completely dead. Turn off the battery, unhook the battery from the bike and it works great. Voltage is good and all the battery lights light up. Is the problem in the controller? Its a e-bike kit. Says it's 3,000 to 5,000 watts hub. Says it works on 48v 60v and 72v. It's a sine wave 100a controller, Battery is 48v. What do you thinks wrong?
in my bafang the orange or red is not getting 5v ..so it's not turning on... .what can I do.. when I press power display is on n error 30 movement I release power everything is gone
Happened to have an extra 400 amp brushless motor controller with cosine encoder or just straight drive with no hall effect or encoder pen out? Basically 90% in on a project and now I'm going through a divorce and can't afford a darn controller so if you had an extra one I would be tickled to death. You didn't mind sharing it with me
Hi, my name is Sam. I recently purchased electric bicycle 60 volt 1500 watt motor, 26 inch fat tire. My first right didn't go so well after riding for 5 miles when I stopt the bicycle starts moving on its own Without me touching throttle. I was losing also pedal assistant when I was driving. There is no sensors for Pedal assistant it works different way. The bicycle was also increasing speed without me controlling speed I didn't touch the throttle and I wasn't pedaling. Since the owners of the company are located in Chicago, they picked the bicycle after I report the problem. But they are telling me that they cannot find any issue with the bicycle. I present them three different videos with the problem. After I did my research including watching your video I realize that controller is responsible for all the problems that I was having with the bicycle riding for the first time. Any tots, what could possibly happen or what is happening? Thank you. Sam
So my problem is definitely the battery. Ecotric Seagull that won't power on. It has a tail light built in that works and it took a charge, just the red n black don't pop, it does when I hook my diy battery to it. I think it works but the connection is busted internally. Time for disassembly I guess.
I need to replace my controller. Its Output power 200w, rated voltage 48/60A, max current 30+(-) 1A, speed set 1-4V.. but I can’t find exactly the same. Can someone suggest me what to do. Thanks
Please, help: I connected my hub motor to a 60A controller of voltage range 48-72v. But the motor will not spin at 48v (and the motor is rated 48v), until at around 64v then it will spin slowly. Anyone with tips on what to do?
Testing the wires in each of the connectors for either battery voltage or signal voltage can tell you a lot, also helps that there are many trends among different controller manuf so most of it just becomes obvious after a while.
Since all the programmable controllers have wiring diagrams somewhere online, it’s these little generic controllers that are a headache. Lol The basic electric scooter controller are normally pretty easy because they have the bigger connectors and very few wires. Only the basics needed to run, plus brake, 3-speed, and display signal. The label on the controller will tell you some things to expect. It’s daunting at first but eventually it starts to make sense. Lol Once you get the obvious ones connected: Thick Red and Black: battery input Thick Blue Green Yellow: phase wires thin red green black in 3-pin connector (throttle) Ignition wire (if no remote start its thin, but with remote start its thicker than a signal wire because it backfeeds the accessories from the controller. With no remote it just sends a signal, no current, so its thin. With these connected the controller can run the motor if it’s paired correctly. In some of these controllers, it still leaves enough wires. Since its not designed for user programming, some features have a selection switch, but instead of a normal switch, it’s two little wires you connect together. This is where you also read the words on the label to help you know what to be looking for. If your controller says “48v/60v LVP 42v/52v”, you will have a pair of wires to select one or the other. If the bike is 48v and it looses power at 52v, these wires are in the wrong condition (connected or disconnected). These are not auto-sensing because there is a voltage overlap between 48/60/72 volt systems. A fully charged 48v is 54ish volts, and the low voltage of 60v is 52v, so if it were auto sensing and you have 53v battery voltage it has no idea if its a 48v or 60v battery. Of your controller says “self learning”, it will have a set of wires to enable/disable self learning. Sometimes this same type of selection if used to turn on speed limit. Using a multimeter, with the controller turned on, check the voltage of each remaining wire, looking for 3-4v “signal” wires. These are also switches like the sets of wires above, but they are activated while riding by pulling them to zero usually. If you have a 3-speed controller, you will have two signal wires, often with its own ground wire, and when you connect one wire to ground, it tells the controller to run low speed, when you disconnect that wire and connect the other wire it tells the controller to run high speed. When none are connected it is in default medium speed. Once you identified them connect them to your 3-speed switch or jumper it for the desired single speed. You will also have high brake, low brake or both. Normally it’s stated on the label. If you find a signal wire and you pull connect it to ground and the motor stops running when throttle is trying to run it, thats “low brake”, and is connected to both brake sensors in parallel so that either brake level connects it to ground. Of your controller is high brake, there will be a signal wire that if you connect battery voltage (12v up to battery voltage) it will activate the brake function. This may be simply motor safety cutoff, but also on some controllers turns on mild regen. High brake is normally easier to wire a brake light to because you just connect both brake lever sensors in parallel, connector battery voltage to one wire, and send the other wire to HIGH BRAKE on the controller and the brake light positive. You will also have a display wire. This signals will normally change if you speed up the motor. It’s typically a single wire with a bullet connector, but if it’s a tiny bicycle controller it may be bundled with others. If the controller says “PAS” it will have a pedal assist connector. Just slowly and methodically identify each wire. But make sure the rear wheel is off the ground and if you have a chain drive you need to disconnect it because if the motor spins backwards, the freewheel will engage, the pedals will move, potentially kicking itself off the stand, and now your bike is running around in reverse. Lol Of you do have self learning, its so easy. Just connect the wire and with the rear wheel free to spin in either direction, turn on the key, it will pair the phase and hall sensor and set the hall shift angle. If it’s running the wrong way, with the motor still running, disconnect the learning wire, the motor will stop, then reconnect and the motor will run opposite direction. Then turn off the controller and unplug the learning wire.
@@FlipFlopMechanicdear sir please could you help me find a controller and display for my bike it's 48v 250w 17.5a fat bike 20 inch wheel I'm trying to change the pedal assist percentage 0-5 ie 1=35% 2=45% 3=60 and so on if you could point me to the right controler and display.
@@FlipFlopMechanic Hey there, I'm having horrible time with ebike componant compatibility.... My 1st motor was bafang front hub and before I ever got it going, something fried when I put a universal throttle on... it set a throttle code and would only work w PA. I bough a new Bafang throttle and it fried (i fried the throttle from my Bafang mid drive too) I discovered all Kunteng componants are compatible got it running w that but the last thing you see before the display fries is the bike going 40MPH pushing it along (It's fried 3 displays) but I got it going with an LED no spedometer display, and works fine. So on the rear I put a Jauopay 1000... been sticking with Kunteng stuff having good luck(I got 2 Carbon Speed Cycle 250/500watt motors) they work Great !(all Kunteng) I just upgraded my Jauopay to the 1500watt that comes with a wider wheel that's all black and matches the front Bafang and this one came with Colourful LCD Meter (UKC1). The wheel had some bent spokes and I returned it but I tried the display/controller on the 1000watt motor and used the universal thumb throttle....... and it FRIED either the display or controller set code and quit working😡 So the next day after I got my refund, the 1500watt one went on sale 25$off and It should be here Monday. I really love the display But if a throttle or something goes bad I'm worried about getting replacements. Jauopay never gave me any product customization info on the 1000 and on this one all they say you have to use a "Rotary throttle"🙄 (not thumb) but NO INFO on replacements. Do you have any idea where to get replacement componants for this UKC1 color display (i had one kit come with a bad throttle) , or a way to figure out what's compatible with what? I'm thinking they intentionally design these things to fry out if you hook up the wrong stuff
@@FlipFlopMechanicwhat do you mean jump at so you don't need a display. I want to see you do it so I don't blow myself up after just taking your word for it
Here’s a question why would you have hall sensors on a dc motor that I don’t get I think that is stupid why wouldn’t a person just use an high reving AC motor and a pure sighn wave inverter that’s what I want to try
This is the most confusing thing ever sometimes blue sometimes white sometimes it grey sometimes it's this sometimes it's that ,,, you have to make sure your motor has the right connections to even go to this damn thing even the controller..
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
You have no idea how helpful this video was. I thought it was going to be difficult and stressful but after this video I’m sure I can do it now lol
I came here to say this same thing
Thanks for idea
+1
I'm@@reeflab2221
Didn't know you could bridge the red and yellow display wires to turn on a controller. Learned something new, thanks!
Genuinely my hero for this upload-- Thank you very much Flip Flop Mechanic!
Great video, one of my favorite instructional videos thank you
In rush suppressor you could called it it soften the start up voltage so it doesn't spark
Thanks 🙏 great simple information all us E-geeks need ❤
That's very good information that people will only need to understand more in the future 😊 Thank you
Thanks for generously helping out with these things...they don't seem so scary now!
Yessir. People are charging like 100 over dollars just to rewire these things in my country. What a rip off
Smooth, easy to digest presentation.
THANK YOU.
For drivers in my opinion are the best they are the best controllers and most easiest to program to get your system running together and talking him together as one no matter what you have great content.
So many stuff explained. Thank you!!
I actually leaned a lot thank you sir
You didn't learn anything 😅
Thanks.... I simply have to make my wires longer for the extended swing arm On a hub motor E. grom
How do you go about doing that?
Thanks a lot for this video. Very helpful 👍🏽
What web site i can use for get information about the black controller in 7:30
All my thx ❤
Where is the speed limit wire connecter?
So if the motor spins when I plug the 2 whites together but not at all when I unplug them. Got any suggestions?
it could depend on your controllers features, 0 power setting by default will not allow throttle input so do you have a display that allows power settings?
Thanks for this. I have a golf skateboard and one of the controllers is just making a beeping sound. I think it has a power related issue from the smaller throttle lines. I’ll connect it all up and try to cross the yellow to the red and see if I can get it working. Then I’ll know what to do next.
My controller works with BOTH my front and rear hub motors. The bike maker (E-CELLS e-bikes) even put two aluminum finned "coolers" on my controller.
I do not have PAS after installing the 35A KT controller onto a Radrunner 2. The factory PAS wired are Red White Black. The controller wires for PAS are Black Brown Yellow. Does anyone know which goes to which? Also my bike hall sensor has 6 wires but the controller only has 5. I have a white wire left. What do I connect it to?
I have an electric bike but I'm skeptical about the battery connection because I have a 48V 13ah and a 48V 21ah extended-range battery. The standard battery will last from 4-6 hours, and the extended-range battery will last from 16 + hours based on the 50 - 90 miles of range. What battery connection would I need to reconnect to get a normal battery reading from the display?
I added a tail/head/turn signal kit to my eBike conversion. I have everything plugged in except for power. There is a molex with a red and black coming from the controller. From the light kit there is a small molex with a yellow and black wire. I want to change the molex on the controller and the light kit to match and then plug them in. Question is, are these indeed the power wires and how would I match up the controller red/black to the light kit yellow/black? I have a voltmeter but not sure how to check voltage.
are there cables adapters for this to put this on waterproof julet connectors ? and display - nc81f ?
or are there adapter cables for the fardriver? to julet waterproofed cable?
maybe you can help me. I bought a City Coco E-Chopper a few months back. I just spent several months refurbishing it and spent most of my savings. I finally got it assembled and took it for a cruise. It was awesome! I rode it for most of the day. In the evening I took it to do my laundry. After my laundry was dry I went outside to discover when I turned the key, everything worked but the current that was supposed to flow to the motor.
I have a serious heart condition and was pleasantly surprised when a couple with a pickup offered to haul it home for me.
I have spent the last few days dissassembling it and reassembling it over and over again. I have watched every RUclips video including yours but have found no answers.
I bought a couple extra controllers off tyhe internet a couple months ago and tried hooking them up to the bike, and get nothing. There is no wiring diagram. I cannot even get them to turn on.
Can I send my controllers in to you to look at?
Hi, Great video, thank you! What if you want it to have a reverse feature? Is that possible
some controller its already there but most smaller ebike controllers don't have a plug in solution.
Thank you very much, very helpful! Appreciate you.
Hello, nice vid. Do you know if you can hook up a sinewave KT controller through the 3 phase-wires and the pass sensor only, no Hall? Regards
Yo i have the brushless motor controler 48v and 250w, motor 48v 250w so max speed on e bike is 36kmh what to do on the controller to go faster
Good Morning. I have a problem with the display on my Hover E 1 electric scooter. I need information connecting unlabled connectors on the bottom of the scooter can I get some help
How do you join 2 controllers together for 4x4 ATV with2 x 2500w motors ATV front axle and 1 on rear
A have a question. I have a e bike scooter 500w motor 48v with 4 battery pack 12v 20ah. Can I add an extra battery In series? The controller can handle 60 v without burnout. Thanks
Great video ! Very useful. What is the match setting between the controller and the hub motor! I replace the controller of my scooter. The hub motor is a QS 72v 2000w; the new controller is 36 to 84 Volts, 45 - 50 Amp 2500w power. With the motor lifted works fine but when put on field it makes a loud electrical noice from the hub motor. Any advice is very welcome!
Awesome video man! Got a ? if you don't mind. I have the ienyrid es10 2000w 48v electric scooter with dual 1000w brushless motors and I'm needing to replace the controller. Do you know what type I would work? there's so many different options!😬
Fantastic video.Respect
To reverse a brush less motor, swap over any 2 of the 3 power / phase wires. This trick is used in model aircraft. My problem is connecting the display screen, the wires match the 5 signal wires from the motor but I don't have anything to connect to? This is not complicated and I'm not dumb but I'm really puzzled by not being able to see the correct wires. I have 2 controller boxes, 2 displays and one wheel. 😂
do you know the brand controller on wired bike or how to find out?
anyway to bypass DYU V8 governess of speed 28mph (limitations) that this bike has, caps out, any way to remove this restriction? if not what would be an alternative, replace the controller?
If im seeing an error 10 code and my bike won't work. And neither will my headlight but at one point the bike worked for a brief time then back to nothing. I also have jacked up breaks and a broken pedal assistant thing. What do you think is the problem.
FFM, that was an excellent break down and run through of components and what they do..
I'm not sure how I got here, but, stayed for 3 reasons..
1: Your voice sounds almost identical to the voice of George Knapp. [He's a living legend]
2: I attempted to compare the constrollers you mention to those I've used in the past..
[Before RC "drones" where a known/popular thing I used to design/buld them]
[Flight Control Boards usually have digital Cumpasses, Gyros, and Magnetometers]
[E-bike/scooter/unicycle CBs apparently only utilize the Gyro] Interesting..
3: Your demonstrations/explanations where Awesome. [Valuable to those learning]
I just have one slight issue..
As someone w/ 30ish years experience in professionally wiring, painting, photo&editing...
I'm Colorblind!
Talk about a pain.. Especially when they use multicolors on a single wire housing.. 😁
very helpful man how can i get intouch with you? im trying to start my own e repair shop and had a few questions?
I was hooking up a brake light to my display wires and heard a pop when I turned the key on. Now can’t figure out if I blew up the controller or the throttle because now I have no power at all. Any advice??
Do you know what size the battery wires are ? Im ordering the 120p watt voilamart kit. They said its a 2.5 mm bullet but from what ive seen most are 4 mm. Arent they? I think regular mp3 headphones are 3.5 i can see my 48 v 1000watt 25ah battery going through a 2.5mm maybe im wrong
Where do get your controllers? I'm looking to upgrade my controllers on my scooter. I'm having a hard time finding anything but basic
this helped me a lot!! thank you. my only issue is that my bike gets top speed 10mph and then shuts down. any help here? southern california,
went from 36v to 48v (like originally should be)
what is the best controller to get for your e-bike the wires or the one with the plugs
i wonder which one is the speed linmiter cause i would love to cut that XD
Do you possibly have a wire diagram for a UD3-UL controller? I got a new throttle with led with key and trying to connect wires that aren’t the same color.
My e-bike (a volt pulse) is having a error 30 problem. The controller has a cable from the battery, a cable to the motor, 2 cables to the brakes, a cable to the digital screen, a cable from the pick-up sensor and a cable for the lights. Should i be able to run the bike without the lights and brakes connected?
@douglastoal513 - If you haven't already done so unplug one item at a time (not the display) and ending up with the motor until the Communication Error 30 goes away and then replace the item you last unplugged that cleared the error. Mine unfortunately did not clear and failed to recognize when I unplugged the motor so I ended up having to replace the controller however I found a local shop that had a working OEM controller with all the matching water resistant Juliet/Barrel connectors that had been pulled from a wrecked bike at a fraction of the cost of a new OEM controller. Cost less than $50 to get the bike running like new compared to $150+ for the OEM controller or $400+ for a new motor.
Now that I have the immediate problem solved I still might see if I can adapt a universal 48 volt controller that can be had for less than $25 by swapping out the OEM cable ends from the failed controller I replaced just to have a spare and as a learning exercise.
If you've narrowed it down to the brakes and lights you might have a dirty connection on one of the brake levers, a dirty/failing brake switch, headlight/taillight harness connector issue or a faulty LED board in the I'm going to guess taillight since the headlight is not linked to the brakes. Personally I would not ride without a brake light or taillight especially here with all the tourists driving about.
Best!
Good video, but next time MOUNT the camera & free up that other hand.
What about screens. I’ve read that you need to buy a controller and screen that use the same com protocol or will not work
I have an Ebike, it's a Aielec Af7 electric bike and I don't know what to do with the wire connectors because the color coded wires aren't the same color and I need help.
Thank you ❤it was very helpful
What speed controllers would I need for the varlar escooter
How do you know if its the battery or controller if the scooter lacks power then dies out?
Thanks for the vídeo very educativ.
Todos os erros são os mesmos para todas as trotinetes.
Um depende da marca
Need help!! Bike just stopped working , I can hear motor spinning but no traction? Any help would be appreciated 👍
To my understanding , that means you have a bad sensor in the motor.
I'm trying to convert my whole ebike system to an electric motor from an e scooter but the motor is brushed and only a red and black wire. how or is it possible to do that?
Those are shitty motors , buy a brushless motor
I need the last one how to get the screen speed sensor mechanic left off the brake and speed help
What Happens If Your Controller you can Program in How May Magnets are Working ? Does That make it go any Better
Can anyone please tell me what a pointer meter line is, i have a cheapo Chinese controller that hws a 😮single wire for the lcd which I think is going to stay disconnected im pretty sure that I have got everything else worked out but haven't had time to connect it all together yet but this single wire pointer meter wire is either a different name 5o what i call the wires or is something that I haven't come across before,
I must admit it is driving me crazy i usually use Sw-900lcd and controller or TF100 lcd with inbuilt throttle and matching controller, i have a feeling this controller may be analogue if that makes sense but I don't care i just need to be able to turn it on throttle and go a screen doesnt matter on this bike
And how do you get rid of the speed limiter
Heya, so see that big battery with the usb diagnosed port. Are you able to put them in any scooter. Mine is a kirkin m4 and goes 48 max. Only on a nice day with no wind but gets slower much quicker than i thought it would. Is there any way i could make it faster or could you advise me on battery that would make that model faster
Whats the problem, you can't turn it on at all. Battery is new and checks out with good voltage, on, not hooked up . Hook it up to the controller, turn on the battery, The battery makes a sound like it turns the battery off, maybe?. Press the button that tells you how much battery you got left. Doesn't even lights up one bar. Like it's completely dead. Turn off the battery, unhook the battery from the bike and it works great. Voltage is good and all the battery lights light up. Is the problem in the controller? Its a e-bike kit. Says it's 3,000 to 5,000 watts hub. Says it works on 48v 60v and 72v. It's a sine wave 100a controller, Battery is 48v. What do you thinks wrong?
Hello sir. I would like to connect with you and want your advice on my DIY conversion that I am doing for my electric motor cycle
If i have 3 speed line. Is it default like 100% power if leave it unconnected.
Would changing my controller on my vinxs e-bike increase the speed
Will it run with the HAL sensor not installed
Are any of those controllers for brushed motors?
Does the charger connect to the controller
in my bafang the orange or red is not getting 5v ..so it's not turning on... .what can I do.. when I press power display is on n error 30 movement I release power everything is gone
Hey was looking for some help troubleshooting a project lmk if you willing and how to get ahold of you
Happened to have an extra 400 amp brushless motor controller with cosine encoder or just straight drive with no hall effect or encoder pen out? Basically 90% in on a project and now I'm going through a divorce and can't afford a darn controller so if you had an extra one I would be tickled to death. You didn't mind sharing it with me
Would it matter if my old throttle had 5 wires and my new one has 3?
Hi, my name is Sam. I recently purchased electric bicycle 60 volt 1500 watt motor, 26 inch fat tire.
My first right didn't go so well after riding for 5 miles when I stopt the bicycle starts moving on its own Without me touching throttle. I was losing also pedal assistant when I was driving. There is no sensors for Pedal assistant it works different way. The bicycle was also increasing speed without me controlling speed I didn't touch the throttle and I wasn't pedaling.
Since the owners of the company are located in Chicago, they picked the bicycle after I report the problem. But they are telling me that they cannot find any issue with the bicycle. I present them three different videos with the problem.
After I did my research including watching your video I realize that controller is responsible for all the problems that I was having with the bicycle riding for the first time. Any tots, what could possibly happen or what is happening?
Thank you.
Sam
So my problem is definitely the battery. Ecotric Seagull that won't power on. It has a tail light built in that works and it took a charge, just the red n black don't pop, it does when I hook my diy battery to it. I think it works but the connection is busted internally. Time for disassembly I guess.
Need help upgrading my fat tire motorcycle do you have a way to contact
Hello bro where can I get all this parts
I need to replace my controller. Its Output power 200w, rated voltage 48/60A, max current 30+(-) 1A, speed set 1-4V.. but I can’t find exactly the same. Can someone suggest me what to do. Thanks
Your a hero
Can I run a 72volt motor with a 48Volt battery??? They send me the wrong motor (NOT A 48V) 🤦🏻♂️
Im a noob but I think so....
@@TheArtOfHarry thank u for reply, I’m actually running it and I could imagine a 72v on 72v 🛞 💨 🚀 👌🏼
Please, help: I connected my hub motor to a 60A controller of voltage range 48-72v. But the motor will not spin at 48v (and the motor is rated 48v), until at around 64v then it will spin slowly. Anyone with tips on what to do?
Thanks for the video updates, pls how increase my bike speed
Salute for your knowledge
My controller reads speed set 1-4 2v what does that mean?
Spoon feeding me everything thank god. Cheers
Could you use a Variac
Interesting , but how you find out all the wiring , without opening the controller
Testing the wires in each of the connectors for either battery voltage or signal voltage can tell you a lot, also helps that there are many trends among different controller manuf so most of it just becomes obvious after a while.
Since all the programmable controllers have wiring diagrams somewhere online, it’s these little generic controllers that are a headache. Lol
The basic electric scooter controller are normally pretty easy because they have the bigger connectors and very few wires. Only the basics needed to run, plus brake, 3-speed, and display signal.
The label on the controller will tell you some things to expect. It’s daunting at first but eventually it starts to make sense. Lol
Once you get the obvious ones connected:
Thick Red and Black: battery input
Thick Blue Green Yellow: phase wires
thin red green black in 3-pin connector (throttle)
Ignition wire (if no remote start its thin, but with remote start its thicker than a signal wire because it backfeeds the accessories from the controller. With no remote it just sends a signal, no current, so its thin.
With these connected the controller can run the motor if it’s paired correctly.
In some of these controllers, it still leaves enough wires. Since its not designed for user programming, some features have a selection switch, but instead of a normal switch, it’s two little wires you connect together. This is where you also read the words on the label to help you know what to be looking for.
If your controller says “48v/60v LVP 42v/52v”, you will have a pair of wires to select one or the other. If the bike is 48v and it looses power at 52v, these wires are in the wrong condition (connected or disconnected). These are not auto-sensing because there is a voltage overlap between 48/60/72 volt systems. A fully charged 48v is 54ish volts, and the low voltage of 60v is 52v, so if it were auto sensing and you have 53v battery voltage it has no idea if its a 48v or 60v battery.
Of your controller says “self learning”, it will have a set of wires to enable/disable self learning.
Sometimes this same type of selection if used to turn on speed limit.
Using a multimeter, with the controller turned on, check the voltage of each remaining wire, looking for 3-4v “signal” wires. These are also switches like the sets of wires above, but they are activated while riding by pulling them to zero usually.
If you have a 3-speed controller, you will have two signal wires, often with its own ground wire, and when you connect one wire to ground, it tells the controller to run low speed, when you disconnect that wire and connect the other wire it tells the controller to run high speed. When none are connected it is in default medium speed. Once you identified them connect them to your 3-speed switch or jumper it for the desired single speed.
You will also have high brake, low brake or both. Normally it’s stated on the label. If you find a signal wire and you pull connect it to ground and the motor stops running when throttle is trying to run it, thats “low brake”, and is connected to both brake sensors in parallel so that either brake level connects it to ground.
Of your controller is high brake, there will be a signal wire that if you connect battery voltage (12v up to battery voltage) it will activate the brake function. This may be simply motor safety cutoff, but also on some controllers turns on mild regen. High brake is normally easier to wire a brake light to because you just connect both brake lever sensors in parallel, connector battery voltage to one wire, and send the other wire to HIGH BRAKE on the controller and the brake light positive.
You will also have a display wire. This signals will normally change if you speed up the motor. It’s typically a single wire with a bullet connector, but if it’s a tiny bicycle controller it may be bundled with others.
If the controller says “PAS” it will have a pedal assist connector.
Just slowly and methodically identify each wire. But make sure the rear wheel is off the ground and if you have a chain drive you need to disconnect it because if the motor spins backwards, the freewheel will engage, the pedals will move, potentially kicking itself off the stand, and now your bike is running around in reverse. Lol
Of you do have self learning, its so easy. Just connect the wire and with the rear wheel free to spin in either direction, turn on the key, it will pair the phase and hall sensor and set the hall shift angle. If it’s running the wrong way, with the motor still running, disconnect the learning wire, the motor will stop, then reconnect and the motor will run opposite direction. Then turn off the controller and unplug the learning wire.
@@FlipFlopMechanicdear sir please could you help me find a controller and display for my bike it's 48v 250w 17.5a fat bike 20 inch wheel I'm trying to change the pedal assist percentage 0-5 ie 1=35% 2=45% 3=60 and so on if you could point me to the right controler and display.
@@FlipFlopMechanic Hey there, I'm having horrible time with ebike componant compatibility.... My 1st motor was bafang front hub and before I ever got it going, something fried when I put a universal throttle on... it set a throttle code and would only work w PA. I bough a new Bafang throttle and it fried (i fried the throttle from my Bafang mid drive too) I discovered all Kunteng componants are compatible got it running w that but the last thing you see before the display fries is the bike going 40MPH pushing it along (It's fried 3 displays) but I got it going with an LED no spedometer display, and works fine.
So on the rear I put a Jauopay 1000... been sticking with Kunteng stuff having good luck(I got 2 Carbon Speed Cycle 250/500watt motors) they work Great !(all Kunteng)
I just upgraded my Jauopay to the 1500watt that comes with a wider wheel that's all black and matches the front Bafang and this one came with Colourful LCD Meter (UKC1). The wheel had some bent spokes and I returned it but I tried the display/controller on the 1000watt motor and used the universal thumb throttle....... and it FRIED either the display or controller set code and quit working😡
So the next day after I got my refund, the 1500watt one went on sale 25$off and It should be here Monday. I really love the display But if a throttle or something goes bad I'm worried about getting replacements. Jauopay never gave me any product customization info on the 1000 and on this one all they say you have to use a "Rotary throttle"🙄 (not thumb) but NO INFO on replacements.
Do you have any idea where to get replacement componants for this UKC1 color display (i had one kit come with a bad throttle) , or a way to figure out what's compatible with what? I'm thinking they intentionally design these things to fry out if you hook up the wrong stuff
@@FlipFlopMechanicwhat do you mean jump at so you don't need a display. I want to see you do it so I don't blow myself up after just taking your word for it
What the e-bas option do?
What qbout the meter line not working 0kph even if your already running
I got violet wire but no green wire speed meter not working?
Thank you for this tutorial
Very helpful! Thanks
lots of info it was all greek to me . i have a 24 volt dc motor and wanting to drive a gokart with it , im no further ahead
Very much worth the investment into your ebike
Here’s a question why would you have hall sensors on a dc motor that I don’t get I think that is stupid why wouldn’t a person just use an high reving AC motor and a pure sighn wave inverter that’s what I want to try
Hall sensors are for motor to run smoothly at low speeds and for efficiency
You can de-solder the hall sensor from inside the motor and it will still work as long as controller can run sensorless
how do I add a toward reverse switch to my e Trike?
Get a controller with a reverse function.
Thanks for taking time to show some geek gold ‼️
Super erklärt
This is the most confusing thing ever sometimes blue sometimes white sometimes it grey sometimes it's this sometimes it's that ,,, you have to make sure your motor has the right connections to even go to this damn thing even the controller..
I wish could have that fardriver for free. Thanks in advance👊
Hi where find this controlle