I had my 2WD Slash for 3 years and I never had any of those problems except the body being cracked. I bash my Slash pretty hard and not one single part broke after having it for 3 years. The only part I would say it’s weakness is the hingepin screws that holds the rear arms. Every time I drive it, it would back out itself but luckily I didn’t lose it while driving it around. Thank god lol
Same here My Slash is around that age and aside from the hinge pin issue the only thing I've had to replace was the motor It's surprising because I break something every time l bash anything else
I don't run Slash but Rustler/Bandit (pretty much same car except wheels and chassis). Your lucky on the shock cap it's first thing that pops for me. I switched the hinge pins for the rear and front arms with nut/screw set. The back and front hinge pin tend to come out of welled used plastic easy. I've noticed on newer shocks the cap problem doesn't happen as often. My old black shocks all had shock caps come off but the newer ones seem better (I don't run short shocks in front though).
I had that one rear hinge pin keep backing out on me. My solution was to run it in from the back side of the arm so the rotation of the suspension doesn’t unscrew it anymore. Seems to work fairly well so far.
I'm really happy I got a brushed Slash for my first truck- bashed it- broke it- fixed it- learned how it worked. Then I got a brushless, 3s, WAY faster- broke it more- fixed it more. Now I have a 4wd Rustler VXL- many upgrades and it is SO FUN- love the progression
A very good educational video for Slash drivers new and old. I have one thing that I would put ahead of all the things you mentioned. That is the rear hubs. The stock rear hubs always break. With our school group I buy a bunch of inexpensive aluminum rear hubs and I have him in my tool bag, because I know racing on carpet every driver will break the rear hubs. The shock caps are a problem, but it seems rather inconsistent. Some people shoo due them so they can heat them up and remove them if they lose oil. I've seen the metal caps pop off. One the threads on the shock body are stripped, you might as well buy a new shock body. Thanks for the educational video. Ii wish more races/tracks offered a spec Slash class.
Thanks for all the flaws (tips)! We just ordered 4x the Slash kit for the whole family for Christmas to build between the years. And then we will hit the track! I am really looking forward to it :-) Cheers!
the slash is hands down one of the best rc cars to own. i dole out beating after beating and it still comes back for more. break fix bash repeat. if you can get it to break under normal bashing use.
Only problems with shocks I’ve ever had is leaking and only bending the rear shafts. The Raptor body has been crazy durable for me, 4 years of bashing with the same body. Haven’t really had any other problems.
You should be differentiating between "Spec Slash", and "Stock Spec Slash". As with a lot of tracks, "Spec Slash" typically refers to running the stock ESC, motor, and wheels/tires...but, any other changes (such as GTR shocks, LCG chassis conversion, non-Traxxas receiver, etc) area allowed, and "Stock Spec Slash refers to everything required to remain as it was out-of-the-box.
Still working on my racing program with the Slash 👍 I think even after I move up, I'll still keep it around. The Slash has been my intro to this wonderful hobby. Awesome content as always, the live feed last night so very entertaining 😂
Hmm. . Hojestly I haven't had any of these issues, but I drive an associated sc10 pro4. This car can take INSANE PUNISHMENT. My local outdoor track is designed mostly for 8th scale and higher...im glad its so sturdy. The ramps are like BMX bike sized, all of em yet my sc10 is just a monster .
I got my first 2wd slash in 2017, i have 2 now. I have never had a problem with the shock caps but the shafts bend easy... ive went through 4 rear shafts but no shock caps. And i have never had the steering bellcrank pop out of place, my brother has a slash aswell and went full speed into a brick wall (trying to break it) and that was the only thing that broke. The hinge pin screws do come out, i put a little lock tight or super glue on them to keep them in. I have used the body that came with the first car on both of them and it hasnt broke in half yet but it is very cracked. The problems i have with them are the axle carriers both front and rear, and caster blocks. They are around 25$ for rpm ones or metal ones. Niether metal or rpm ones have let me down yet.
Kid fell in love with the looks of the Slash, so I have way too many of them around. I don't at all dislike how they drive but in our use (bashing around in the backyard or at the park), they don't go through grass at all. Much prefer the Rustler and Stampede in 2wd vs Slash. Actually the 2wd Rustler VXL is probably my favorite RC overall... but only with Slash rear arms (for toe-in) and then 4x4 spec wheels for equal offset all around. Now THAT is a car I wish Traxxas would just make straight up. The rear toe helps a lot and same offset means you can rotate tires.
I recently bought my first traxxas rc car a few weeks ago in our latest lock down(otherwise we run HB). We upgraded to the 2s battery and a proper charger(not the 12v one included), not longer after we had the same problems with the shock caps and upgraded to the full alloy shocks. Love you videos from NZ!
I honestly love the two wheele drive Traxxas entry level cars. Just yesterday my rustler got run over by an SUV and the only thing wrong was that the body was bent, I just popped it back into place and it was good as new. Crazy enough Nothing else was broken.
The newer model comes with a different style shock caps and for the hinge pin on the right just flip it around whenever I get a crack in the body i put some black shoe glue on it from the inside to keep from getting worse
Try useing medium strenght threadlocker blue gel .part #24005. I put this on at night so dry for 12 to 15 hours. Use this on a vxl rustler henpins .been having real good luck do this..it might be good on slash henpins..
I have also found the hinge pins to be weak and bend easy...I put new control arms on my 2wd slash and the pins were bent when I took them out...and I don't really run mine that hard.
Very durable probably the best first rc car . The slash cant be beat for the value. Only car that could be equal in value is the Arma Granite .Another great rc. Cant go wrong with eighter.
So I do not have a Traxxis in my collection but it’s just a matter of time before I get one. What Would be the best Traxxis crawler to get as my first Traxxis? My nephew has the Bronco but I’m thinking something with a lower body. I like the TRX sport truck & kit but it doesn’t have the 2 speed & I know you like the ability to shift from high to low.
we have 2 sport trx trucks.. Absolutely brilliant. We haven't found the need for 2 speed, the full time locker is simple and nearly bullet proof. With 3s and regular power setting it will pop wheelies. 2 trucks, driven by kids for nearly 2 years. We've been through 3 motors, 1 driveshaft, 1 steering servo, 2 radio receivers, and a whole lot of fun. Save the money, but the biggest 3s traxxas battery, outfit it with the power box and LED front light bar. Most of our damage happened after hours of snow or water crossings. Like 12 inches of water, completely submerged. If I wanted better realistic scale I would go RC4WD, but these are great with scale features and insanely capable.
Thanks for the info. I went ahead & got the sport truck. I programmed it & put a 3s in it & took it out stock and I’m extremely impressed with it in stock form & super happy with the performance. I’ve already got metal bead locks for it & a new motor & esc but will run it till something dies. I have Redcat crawlers, Element crawlers & a Carisma Coyote & after looking at the chassis of the Traxxis I’m very impressed & see why the Traxxis name is in such high regard. 👍
The hinge pin issue can be fixed with silicone grease, just put a thin film on the hinge pins and the pins that back out put into the opposite side. The body's last forever if you line the weak parts with e6000 and drywall tape. The steering has never been an issue for me but the front and rear skid plates are really weak on the Slash HGC. Lastly why does traxxas continue to make the HCG Slash 2wd and 4x4? They're unstable and really bad for new drivers. They don't offer any advantages off road either since the front and rear bulkheads have the same ground clearance as the LCG chassis. Also the front caster blocks and rear hub carriers seriously need to be upgraded on all traxxas 2wds.
5 Reasons I Like The Traxxas Slash 2WD: 1. Spec Slash 2. Open/Sportsman 4WD SCT 3. Mudboss 4. Drag racing 5. Generally a really fun budget beginner backyard basher
Oh you missed the real issues, Back in the early 00's they used 5x8 MM bushings instead of bearings. This was in the brushed days. when Traxxas had one level, everyone. Back them it was actually better to run bushings, because 5x8 mm bearings did not hold up well to dirt and sand. When RPM finally got the 5x16 MM conversion hubs we finally could use decent bearings in the wheels They also had a steel top gear with a plastic middle and diff gear. The only fix was the Traxxas alumnium mid gear which was only marginally better than the plastic mid gear (5-10 runs {alumnium} as opposed to if you were lucky 1 or 2 {plastic}). I get your points, but that is first world issues, compared to how bad these trucks were in the past. I lived the traxxas life back then and say what's offered now is the best they ever offered on the 2WD platform. The only actual issue i really have anymore, is the lack of bell cranks on the stampede. I mean seriously? with the slash out for 10+ years and they couldn't give the stampede bell cranks? That is infiruating
At least you don't have to worry about changing idler and diff gears all the time anymore. There was a day when that was a problem as well. My record is 28 minutes on a Rustler. Transmission out, apart, rebuilt and, installed. All hand tools. Kids and there power tools these days. 🙄
All the 2wd models seem to have the hinge pin problem. But In my experience I have found that putting them in opposite way of the way suspension works helps to alleviate them backing out. So like the left side you put in from the front. And the right side you put in from the rear
I'm glad you made this video, I was going to go and buy one after work today but got side tracked. I have a E-Revo and I love it but I want something a little tamer. Any suggestions.
I would buy a rustler or hoss if you want something a little tamer and I just bought a erevo today bought the blue and green one and I have two hoss’s and two maxx’s and both are really awesome
Screw the hinge pin in from the other side on the one that keeps on backing out if you notice it only backs out on the one side because of the rotation if you put it in from the back then it's less likely to back out
#6 where the rear shock tower gets secured to the chassis, the chassis tends to break there. Pro-Line used to sell an aluminum chassis saver and it would be on the underside of the chassis.
RPM front skid plate will fix problem 4, permanently. Maybe not permitted in spec racing. Don't know. We don't have spec where I live. And just like everyone else said below, right hand hinge pins on the rear a-arms just need to be threaded in from the back. Never an issue after you do that.
And turn the hinge pins around on the right side turn around backwards put them in backwards and they won't spin out or they won't back out you don't have to have reverse threads just put them in backwards
It’s a nice car for sure but it rolls over a lot. That’s why I like the rustler 2wd better because it’s more stable and better suited for higher speeds.
Tip to keep the stock caps on. Small drops of super glue you would think it ruins the ability to rebuild the shock later but hasn't failed me yet. Works basically like plastic lock tight
if you put the hinge pin that backs out, in backwards, it will toghten itself instead of backing out. just flip the one that backs out. you will never have that issue again.
Hey I sent you a message on your Facebook page. It’s a picture of that you’ll love of my vintage Traxxas sledgehammer that I got new when I was a kid and I also sent you a video of me running my Traxxas hoss 5 miles on a back road and it did excellent it’s still had more in it but unfortunately I crashed LOL
Why not... Use limiting straps for the shocks Try using shoe glue and fiber tape to reinforce the bodies Use real pins with a C-clip on the ends to hold the hinge pins in. A screw being used as a hinge pin doesn't sound right and is not the proper application for a joint that moves.
hey i got a question. what screw drivers did you end up going with protek or mip. i cant find the follow up video. or are they both equal just pro and cons of what you want. love the videos, very concise but detailed.
Servo in mine was pure garbage and lasted a few months , the rest was incredibly resistent, the shell started aggressiverly cracking because it is very thin , covers all the chassis and is full of weird bending spots that do not flex properly or transfer the shocks poperly ending cracking or breaking. The shocks started bending very bad... but again he got very very aggressive bashing
Mark if you had enough to get a Slash Ultimate or the Bronco which one would it be? Should I wait until Black friday to make a purchase on one of those? Thanks man great material as usual.
@@rogerespinoza9367 Cant really tell decide for you. For me the Slash 4x4 VXL was my main basher for a good year. I hardly had anything break other than the parts just wore out. Maybe it's because I live on gravel and it has some give. In my opinion the 4x4 is far superior to a 2wd in terms of literally everything except the 2wd can fit a bigger motor in place if needed without extreme modification. I have a TRX4 Sport. Had one with TRAXX before and didn't think they were worth the extra money. Then again the TRX platform is pretty durable. I put the VXL 3s in and it did wheelies on takeoff. Look up Kevin Talbot here on RUclips. Hes put 6s through one and as far Its took it
I’m so sorry to make you look so stupid but there is a trick everyone knows how to keep the hinge pin to stay in… you have been in the hobby how long??
I had my 2WD Slash for 3 years and I never had any of those problems except the body being cracked. I bash my Slash pretty hard and not one single part broke after having it for 3 years. The only part I would say it’s weakness is the hingepin screws that holds the rear arms. Every time I drive it, it would back out itself but luckily I didn’t lose it while driving it around. Thank god lol
Same here My Slash is around that age and aside from the hinge pin issue the only thing I've had to replace was the motor It's surprising because I break something every time l bash anything else
I don't run Slash but Rustler/Bandit (pretty much same car except wheels and chassis). Your lucky on the shock cap it's first thing that pops for me. I switched the hinge pins for the rear and front arms with nut/screw set. The back and front hinge pin tend to come out of welled used plastic easy. I've noticed on newer shocks the cap problem doesn't happen as often. My old black shocks all had shock caps come off but the newer ones seem better (I don't run short shocks in front though).
I used automotive Loc-tite on my hinge pin. Then upgraded to Gorilla Glu.
I've had mine for 5 years and nothing has ever broke on it except the servo I'm on my 4th servo
Do you have other 4x4 cars to compare? It feels to me like 2wd is going to be uncontrollable for such a small car…
The right side of the Slash you screw in the hinge pins from the back of the arm so they won't loosen
I had that one rear hinge pin keep backing out on me. My solution was to run it in from the back side of the arm so the rotation of the suspension doesn’t unscrew it anymore. Seems to work fairly well so far.
I keep going back to all your older videos , I just got my 2wd slash this week. Thank you so much for all the content on the slash🤟🏻
I'm really happy I got a brushed Slash for my first truck- bashed it- broke it- fixed it- learned how it worked. Then I got a brushless, 3s, WAY faster- broke it more- fixed it more. Now I have a 4wd Rustler VXL- many upgrades and it is SO FUN- love the progression
A very good educational video for Slash drivers new and old. I have one thing that I would put ahead of all the things you mentioned. That is the rear hubs. The stock rear hubs always break. With our school group I buy a bunch of inexpensive aluminum rear hubs and I have him in my tool bag, because I know racing on carpet every driver will break the rear hubs. The shock caps are a problem, but it seems rather inconsistent. Some people shoo due them so they can heat them up and remove them if they lose oil. I've seen the metal caps pop off. One the threads on the shock body are stripped, you might as well buy a new shock body. Thanks for the educational video. Ii wish more races/tracks offered a spec Slash class.
For that hinge pin just flip it around backwards and screw it in from the back. That will keep it from backing off.
I feel like everyone forgets that traxxas makes a 2wd VXL version that fixed most of those problems
Thanks for all the flaws (tips)! We just ordered 4x the Slash kit for the whole family for Christmas to build between the years.
And then we will hit the track!
I am really looking forward to it :-)
Cheers!
the slash is hands down one of the best rc cars to own. i dole out beating after beating and it still comes back for more. break fix bash repeat. if you can get it to break under normal bashing use.
Only problems with shocks I’ve ever had is leaking and only bending the rear shafts. The Raptor body has been crazy durable for me, 4 years of bashing with the same body. Haven’t really had any other problems.
You should be differentiating between "Spec Slash", and "Stock Spec Slash". As with a lot of tracks, "Spec Slash" typically refers to running the stock ESC, motor, and wheels/tires...but, any other changes (such as GTR shocks, LCG chassis conversion, non-Traxxas receiver, etc) area allowed, and "Stock Spec Slash refers to everything required to remain as it was out-of-the-box.
just thread the hinge pin in from the other side, it will stay in on that side.
This guy ain’t the sharpest tool in the shed… I can’t stand people that make videos on rc cars and don’t know shit
Still working on my racing program with the Slash 👍 I think even after I move up, I'll still keep it around. The Slash has been my intro to this wonderful hobby. Awesome content as always, the live feed last night so very entertaining 😂
Hmm. . Hojestly I haven't had any of these issues, but I drive an associated sc10 pro4. This car can take INSANE PUNISHMENT. My local outdoor track is designed mostly for 8th scale and higher...im glad its so sturdy. The ramps are like BMX bike sized, all of em yet my sc10 is just a monster .
I got my first 2wd slash in 2017, i have 2 now. I have never had a problem with the shock caps but the shafts bend easy... ive went through 4 rear shafts but no shock caps. And i have never had the steering bellcrank pop out of place, my brother has a slash aswell and went full speed into a brick wall (trying to break it) and that was the only thing that broke. The hinge pin screws do come out, i put a little lock tight or super glue on them to keep them in. I have used the body that came with the first car on both of them and it hasnt broke in half yet but it is very cracked. The problems i have with them are the axle carriers both front and rear, and caster blocks. They are around 25$ for rpm ones or metal ones. Niether metal or rpm ones have let me down yet.
Kid fell in love with the looks of the Slash, so I have way too many of them around.
I don't at all dislike how they drive but in our use (bashing around in the backyard or at the park), they don't go through grass at all.
Much prefer the Rustler and Stampede in 2wd vs Slash.
Actually the 2wd Rustler VXL is probably my favorite RC overall... but only with Slash rear arms (for toe-in) and then 4x4 spec wheels for equal offset all around.
Now THAT is a car I wish Traxxas would just make straight up. The rear toe helps a lot and same offset means you can rotate tires.
I recently bought my first traxxas rc car a few weeks ago in our latest lock down(otherwise we run HB). We upgraded to the 2s battery and a proper charger(not the 12v one included), not longer after we had the same problems with the shock caps and upgraded to the full alloy shocks. Love you videos from NZ!
Super glued my hinge pins lol
I’ve had my slash since 2014 and it’s been a good truck
Bent my ruslter shock shaft and now have proline power stroke on the way baby!
Drywall tape and shoo goo never a problem 👌
I honestly love the two wheele drive Traxxas entry level cars. Just yesterday my rustler got run over by an SUV and the only thing wrong was that the body was bent, I just popped it back into place and it was good as new. Crazy enough Nothing else was broken.
Get the ultimate. It's fantastic. Just add a chassis brace and a fan. It's actually cheaper to buy the ultimate , it comes loaded
The newer model comes with a different style shock caps and for the hinge pin on the right just flip it around whenever I get a crack in the body i put some black shoe glue on it from the inside to keep from getting worse
Try useing medium strenght threadlocker blue gel .part #24005. I put this on at night so dry for 12 to 15 hours. Use this on a vxl rustler henpins .been having real good luck do this..it might be good on slash henpins..
I put the hinge pin the works it self lose in from the back and haven’t had any problems
I have also found the hinge pins to be weak and bend easy...I put new control arms on my 2wd slash and the pins were bent when I took them out...and I don't really run mine that hard.
Very durable probably the best first rc car . The slash cant be beat for the value. Only car that could be equal in value is the Arma Granite .Another great rc. Cant go wrong with eighter.
Thanks for the honest review. We love our Slash though eh
Just helpful tip take hinge pins on right side and put em from opposite side problem solved 👊🏼
So I do not have a Traxxis in my collection but it’s just a matter of time before I get one. What Would be the best Traxxis crawler to get as my first Traxxis? My nephew has the Bronco but I’m thinking something with a lower body. I like the TRX sport truck & kit but it doesn’t have the 2 speed & I know you like the ability to shift from high to low.
we have 2 sport trx trucks.. Absolutely brilliant. We haven't found the need for 2 speed, the full time locker is simple and nearly bullet proof. With 3s and regular power setting it will pop wheelies. 2 trucks, driven by kids for nearly 2 years. We've been through 3 motors, 1 driveshaft, 1 steering servo, 2 radio receivers, and a whole lot of fun. Save the money, but the biggest 3s traxxas battery, outfit it with the power box and LED front light bar. Most of our damage happened after hours of snow or water crossings. Like 12 inches of water, completely submerged. If I wanted better realistic scale I would go RC4WD, but these are great with scale features and insanely capable.
Thanks for the info. I went ahead & got the sport truck. I programmed it & put a 3s in it & took it out stock and I’m extremely impressed with it in stock form & super happy with the performance. I’ve already got metal bead locks for it & a new motor & esc but will run it till something dies. I have Redcat crawlers, Element crawlers & a Carisma Coyote & after looking at the chassis of the Traxxis I’m very impressed & see why the Traxxis name is in such high regard. 👍
The hinge pin issue can be fixed with silicone grease, just put a thin film on the hinge pins and the pins that back out put into the opposite side. The body's last forever if you line the weak parts with e6000 and drywall tape. The steering has never been an issue for me but the front and rear skid plates are really weak on the Slash HGC. Lastly why does traxxas continue to make the HCG Slash 2wd and 4x4? They're unstable and really bad for new drivers. They don't offer any advantages off road either since the front and rear bulkheads have the same ground clearance as the LCG chassis. Also the front caster blocks and rear hub carriers seriously need to be upgraded on all traxxas 2wds.
5 Reasons I Like The Traxxas Slash 2WD:
1. Spec Slash
2. Open/Sportsman 4WD SCT
3. Mudboss
4. Drag racing
5. Generally a really fun budget beginner backyard basher
Oh you missed the real issues, Back in the early 00's they used 5x8 MM bushings instead of bearings. This was in the brushed days. when Traxxas had one level, everyone. Back them it was actually better to run bushings, because 5x8 mm bearings did not hold up well to dirt and sand. When RPM finally got the 5x16 MM conversion hubs we finally could use decent bearings in the wheels They also had a steel top gear with a plastic middle and diff gear. The only fix was the Traxxas alumnium mid gear which was only marginally better than the plastic mid gear (5-10 runs {alumnium} as opposed to if you were lucky 1 or 2 {plastic}). I get your points, but that is first world issues, compared to how bad these trucks were in the past. I lived the traxxas life back then and say what's offered now is the best they ever offered on the 2WD platform. The only actual issue i really have anymore, is the lack of bell cranks on the stampede. I mean seriously? with the slash out for 10+ years and they couldn't give the stampede bell cranks? That is infiruating
When comes the slash 4x4 ultimate build?
With the red anodized stuff
At least you don't have to worry about changing idler and diff gears all the time anymore. There was a day when that was a problem as well. My record is 28 minutes on a Rustler. Transmission out, apart, rebuilt and, installed. All hand tools. Kids and there power tools these days. 🙄
All the 2wd models seem to have the hinge pin problem. But In my experience I have found that putting them in opposite way of the way suspension works helps to alleviate them backing out. So like the left side you put in from the front. And the right side you put in from the rear
He would know that if he was an actual rc enthusiast,
Do you cover the tire vent holes with tape so no dirt or sand get inside on your trucks
I'm glad you made this video, I was going to go and buy one after work today but got side tracked. I have a E-Revo and I love it but I want something a little tamer. Any suggestions.
I would buy a rustler or hoss if you want something a little tamer and I just bought a erevo today bought the blue and green one and I have two hoss’s and two maxx’s and both are really awesome
The passenger hinge pin just switch the way it screws in won’t back out on ya again
Screw the hinge pin in from the other side on the one that keeps on backing out if you notice it only backs out on the one side because of the rotation if you put it in from the back then it's less likely to back out
Those hinge pins are a headache on my son's bandit, always backing out.
#6 where the rear shock tower gets secured to the chassis, the chassis tends to break there. Pro-Line used to sell an aluminum chassis saver and it would be on the underside of the chassis.
RPM front skid plate will fix problem 4, permanently. Maybe not permitted in spec racing. Don't know. We don't have spec where I live. And just like everyone else said below, right hand hinge pins on the rear a-arms just need to be threaded in from the back. Never an issue after you do that.
Fix for the hinge pin. Install it from the rear and it will never back out again.
And turn the hinge pins around on the right side turn around backwards put them in backwards and they won't spin out or they won't back out you don't have to have reverse threads just put them in backwards
What's a more advanced car similar to this next step
The shock caps what is the model number that you recommend? I don't race it but could use them to keep the shocks from bending!
Reason #1 to not like the slash 2WD:
It's not 4x4
Got that right!!
What are some of your top non rc specific products that you use in a regular basis?
It’s a nice car for sure but it rolls over a lot. That’s why I like the rustler 2wd better because it’s more stable and better suited for higher speeds.
Did you go to the contractor's shootout in alabama?
just bought one of these freakin awesome
Do you like slash4x4 or 2wd?
Tip to keep the stock caps on. Small drops of super glue you would think it ruins the ability to rebuild the shock later but hasn't failed me yet. Works basically like plastic lock tight
Ahhh those hinge pins!
Try Kevin Talbot’s trick for improving body durability. Line the inside with dry wall tape and smear shoe goo in the grid of the tape.
That guy is worse than this idiot, they both just make videos to make money
@@Rckid28 why do you watch both of these guys videos if they don’t know what they are doing?
if you put the hinge pin that backs out, in backwards, it will toghten itself instead of backing out. just flip the one that backs out. you will never have that issue again.
My slash is many years old never had shock cap pop.
The body problem can be solved using some shoe goo and drywall tape. It’ll make it 100 times more durable. Any body is good for this
Cone washers fix the poping steering rod issue.
Hey mark, loved the vid man. Wish me luck on my dirt oval race day tomorrow
I think the Traxxas Bandit is a good beginner Rc car that is little cheaper in price compared to a Slash.
Hey I sent you a message on your Facebook page. It’s a picture of that you’ll love of my vintage Traxxas sledgehammer that I got new when I was a kid and I also sent you a video of me running my Traxxas hoss 5 miles on a back road and it did excellent it’s still had more in it but unfortunately I crashed LOL
I own one I like it but it is really annoying when it always gets stuck in the grass and I think it sits too low stock
Shoo goo and drywall tape for any bodies it makes em least 10 times as long
Great live yesterday Mark!
Screw the hinge pin that is backing out in from the back. Also do it with the one in the front holding the steering knuckle in.
Flip the hinge pin around and it should not back out seems to be working with mine
Gotta agree on the hinge pins thats why some of mine are in back words they dont back out as bad if at all now.
Why not...
Use limiting straps for the shocks
Try using shoe glue and fiber tape to reinforce the bodies
Use real pins with a C-clip on the ends to hold the hinge pins in. A screw being used as a hinge pin doesn't sound right and is not the proper application for a joint that moves.
have you won any races?
Enjoy the weekend brother
hey i got a question. what screw drivers did you end up going with protek or mip. i cant find the follow up video. or are they both equal just pro and cons of what you want. love the videos, very concise but detailed.
Mark how do u fix flat spots on your tires
They could put threaded hinge pins n nuts ,for the price,
Sounds like you should buy different shocks.
On the hcg chassis, the hinge pin that always backs out, put it in from the other direction.
Servo in mine was pure garbage and lasted a few months , the rest was incredibly resistent, the shell started aggressiverly cracking because it is very thin , covers all the chassis and is full of weird bending spots that do not flex properly or transfer the shocks poperly ending cracking or breaking. The shocks started bending very bad... but again he got very very aggressive bashing
Can't you drywall tape and shoegoo the bodies for spec race. I did it to my slashes body shell.
Mark if you had enough to get a Slash Ultimate or the Bronco which one would it be? Should I wait until Black friday to make a purchase on one of those? Thanks man great material as usual.
You want a crawler or a go fast vehicle? Granted a crawler can be made fast but then it kinda defeats the purpose
Traxxas doesn’t do Black Friday deals unfortunately
@@reidisaacson9623 I have a 2WD slash currently but would like a 4WD. I have wanted a crawler for a while now and Mark has sold me on both.
@@rogerespinoza9367 Cant really tell decide for you. For me the Slash 4x4 VXL was my main basher for a good year. I hardly had anything break other than the parts just wore out. Maybe it's because I live on gravel and it has some give. In my opinion the 4x4 is far superior to a 2wd in terms of literally everything except the 2wd can fit a bigger motor in place if needed without extreme modification. I have a TRX4 Sport. Had one with TRAXX before and didn't think they were worth the extra money. Then again the TRX platform is pretty durable. I put the VXL 3s in and it did wheelies on takeoff. Look up Kevin Talbot here on RUclips. Hes put 6s through one and as far Its took it
Good evening great video
Hindge pin, you screw the one that is coming out from the opposite side.
Take the one pin that's keep backing out instead of it going in from the front going from the back
Big shout out.🍺🍺
I just bought one earlier
Gorilla tape in right places works great and not as heavy as shoe goo/tape
i got a slash 2wd vxl 3-s and a losi eight e im 13 but im trying to find a trade for a crawler idk if i would trade rn
is there any other 2wd sct's that anybody would recommend over the slash?
What the part number for those shocks
I have found that the 4x4 slash body is stronger
Yeah they are tough so many times mine has my 4x4 just gone flipping through the air and just keeps driving everytime
so practically nothing?
🔥💕👍
Nice colors
I think you said you don't sell, but ever consider giving up the udr for reasonable haha?
I’m so sorry to make you look so stupid but there is a trick everyone knows how to keep the hinge pin to stay in… you have been in the hobby how long??
Yolo
Exactly why I built one
Put your right side rear hinge pin in from the other side that’s what I do and it doesn’t back out anymore