Coming along nicely 👌 just in from cerakoting my swingarm but this is on my list too. I was reading on the ktm forum that unscented j&j baby oil works just as well (?).
Thanks for all the video's. They have been awesome. My problem right now is the following. I depth mic'd down to the rod and got .138"(3.5mm). When I pulled out the rod and measured it I got 6.952"(176.5mm) which is well below the 178mm length for new or 179mm length for old. According to your book, if I buy a new rod, install, then the new distance would be approx. 2.1mm. What gasket should I then use? Does this even sound correct?
Legend thank you. And yeah stay away from baby oil, I used it as a stopgap but it is too thick to be properly effective. EDIT in my case the O ring looked OK, but on inspection it had hardened and that's why the mineral oil was going past into the crankcase.
I rebuilt the slave cylinder on my 2001, lost pressure in just a short period of time. Pulled cylinder off bike and the oil was leaking past the o-ring. Thought the all balls rebuild kit may have had the wrong o-ring. I rebuilt again with same I.d o-ring, but just a hair thicker, that worked for a few rides, but that quit working as well. Measured push rod standoff and picked gasket from chart each time. Cylinder looks good, but I went ahead and purchased all new cylinder, and pushrod set up. I ordered a Pro x rebuild kit just to see if the o-ring is different from all balls. I will say the 2001 is problematic on finding parts compared to slightly newer models, but slave cylinder kits claimed compatibility. All the other brake master cylinder and caliper rebuild are working fine. Just the easiest one (slave cylinder) is giving me fits. Lol
Interesting, and great info for others. So what I’m wondering, is the gasket thickness, combined with a possibly short pushrod allowing to much travel on the piston, causing the blow by of clutch fluid!
@@DanMX2112 one would think that if measurement fell within the chart, then all would be good. Both o-ring did not leak when new and bench tested. Did the piston travel too far and expose the o-ring to the edge of the cylinder? I would think the piston would be hydraulically locked to the master cylinder lever stroke and could not over travel. Within the distance pulled by the clutch lever. I’ll report the condition of the second o-ring, new parts, and the pro-x rebuild kit vs all balls
Also, went with all new clutch plates not sure if initial wear is a concern for old push rod, but the first o-ring was definitely leaking, we will see what happened to the 2nd one. The measurement did call for a thinner gasket on the 2nd try, so I either messed up the first try, or new clutch plates did wear in a little. New clutch plate wear should not throw the slave stroke off (I would think)
Hi Guys, Having somewhat of the same problem on my 2010 sx150. I bought a rebuild kit of the slave, installed it as per this video actually. But i have mineral oil dripping down the case once installed... It has over 300 hours on it, so im wondering... was it a bad rebuild kit ? OR im thinking the salve cylinder is old and worn out? the leak seems to co coming from around the slave piston (after rebuild).... A new Slave might be my best option? They are pricey so im wondering if you guys have any insight on this. Thanks!
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Thanks from russian KTM riders )
Thank you sir!
Great video. Thank you
Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Been waiting on another video !!!man it's coming together so sweet !...keep the good content coming 👌🏻
Thanks Chase, it’s been really fun to work on this bike. You’re really gonna like the next video!
@@DanMX2112 aaah super excited for it !!!holding my breath on it
Coming along nicely 👌 just in from cerakoting my swingarm but this is on my list too. I was reading on the ktm forum that unscented j&j baby oil works just as well (?).
Lol 😂 I think I’ll stay away from the baby oil. People will do anything haha
Thanks for all the video's. They have been awesome. My problem right now is the following. I depth mic'd down to the rod and got .138"(3.5mm). When I pulled out the rod and measured it I got 6.952"(176.5mm) which is well below the 178mm length for new or 179mm length for old. According to your book, if I buy a new rod, install, then the new distance would be approx. 2.1mm. What gasket should I then use? Does this even sound correct?
Legend thank you. And yeah stay away from baby oil, I used it as a stopgap but it is too thick to be properly effective. EDIT in my case the O ring looked OK, but on inspection it had hardened and that's why the mineral oil was going past into the crankcase.
Thanks for the follow up, I figured it had to be that. Get that thing on the dirt my guy!!!!
@@DanMX2112 Hell yeah - got a 2 day event here in New Zealand this weekend :)
Could I just temporarily use regular mineral oil for a heat cycle or does it absolutely have to be hydraulic mineral oil?
Mineral oil is what I used, just a high dollar version, and DOT 4 brake fluid would also work fine. The new ones run DOT 4 now, so no big deal!
Anybody know the O ring size?
No idea man, sorry about that.
I rebuilt the slave cylinder on my 2001, lost pressure in just a short period of time. Pulled cylinder off bike and the oil was leaking past the o-ring. Thought the all balls rebuild kit may have had the wrong o-ring. I rebuilt again with same I.d o-ring, but just a hair thicker, that worked for a few rides, but that quit working as well. Measured push rod standoff and picked gasket from chart each time. Cylinder looks good, but I went ahead and purchased all new cylinder, and pushrod set up. I ordered a Pro x rebuild kit just to see if the o-ring is different from all balls. I will say the 2001 is problematic on finding parts compared to slightly newer models, but slave cylinder kits claimed compatibility. All the other brake master cylinder and caliper rebuild are working fine. Just the easiest one (slave cylinder) is giving me fits. Lol
Interesting, and great info for others. So what I’m wondering, is the gasket thickness, combined with a possibly short pushrod allowing to much travel on the piston, causing the blow by of clutch fluid!
@@DanMX2112 one would think that if measurement fell within the chart, then all would be good. Both o-ring did not leak when new and bench tested. Did the piston travel too far and expose the o-ring to the edge of the cylinder? I would think the piston would be hydraulically locked to the master cylinder lever stroke and could not over travel. Within the distance pulled by the clutch lever. I’ll report the condition of the second o-ring, new parts, and the pro-x rebuild kit vs all balls
Also, went with all new clutch plates not sure if initial wear is a concern for old push rod, but the first o-ring was definitely leaking, we will see what happened to the 2nd one. The measurement did call for a thinner gasket on the 2nd try, so I either messed up the first try, or new clutch plates did wear in a little. New clutch plate wear should not throw the slave stroke off (I would think)
Wow, interesting for sure! Please let me
Know how it turns out!
Hi Guys, Having somewhat of the same problem on my 2010 sx150. I bought a rebuild kit of the slave, installed it as per this video actually. But i have mineral oil dripping down the case once installed... It has over 300 hours on it, so im wondering... was it a bad rebuild kit ? OR im thinking the salve cylinder is old and worn out? the leak seems to co coming from around the slave piston (after rebuild).... A new Slave might be my best option? They are pricey so im wondering if you guys have any insight on this.
Thanks!