Just a thought, flush the reservoir and hose before reattaching the lower banjo bolt. That way, any of that gunk that made it into the hose will not travel through your newly cleaned slave cylinder when you bleed the system. Great video.
Great idea...I kind of did this because I undid the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder and allowed the reservoir to drain entirely down through the hose and into my catch basin.
I just ordered rebuild kits for the clutch system when I discovered I didn't have fluid in my master cylinder today. (almost made it out). No apparent leaking there, so I figured it must be at the slave. Knew you would have a "how to"! Thank you Scott for all the hard work!
Another SERIOUS money saving video for work that can be easily accomplished with great explanation and video reference. Thanks for all you do for our faithful steeds.
Your website and dedication to the goldwing is awesome it also make me appreciate the motorcycle more seeing how much time and energy goes into your vidoes and collection of resources for others thanks for the work you do.
I’m gonna help my father tackle this job today. I can’t thank you enough for this video. Also, this is one of the best repair videos I’ve ever seen. Straight to the point, excellent verbal explanation, and Steven Spielberg couldn’t have produced better video! Again, THANKS!
I will get right on replacing mine! Great tip about checking for paint damage below slave cylinder to tell inside or outside leakage. I am praying for paint damage when I get under my bike (never thought I would ever be saying THAT)!
I bought a rebuild kit DP 0108-004/102 Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston + Repair Kit Compatible with Honda Sold by Main Street Cycles on Amazon, thanks for this video, I have clutch fluid going down but didn't know about how bad it was having Dot 4 in the oil or that it could do that, but after watching the starter video and then this video popped up and I had to watch it, parts will be here in three days max, it is getting good riding weather in Fla so don't want to wait 9 days Thank You again, great video
I got mine done today and It was all over the outside, I had hell getting the new piston and seal in but it finely went in the 10th or 15th time, the rest was easy after that, with the vacuum bleeder I got it done quick, I wasn't getting all my clutch so I'm shifting much more smoothly and have a full clutch now, Thank You again for the video that got er did
Oh my God!! what a great utube channel I thought I was on my own being a goldwing owner. Il be ordering the bits to rebuild my clutch slave cylinder now, my gl1500 has travelled 160.000kms and I dont think its ever been touched. Great information Scott.....👌
As a retread rider returning to the passion of my youth, I sought out a GL1500 Valkyrie just so I would not be on my own. But now I'm learning that Honda dealers are not interested in serving older generation Wings! Thank goodness for Scott & GoldwingDocs which will go a long way towards preservation.
Your slave cylinder looked a whole lot better than mine when I rebuilt it. It had a bunch of crud and crystalized stuff in there. It was also on the clutch cover side. It is a pretty easy job to do. Fortunately, mine did not need the seal in the clutch cover either. I think that one would be fairly hard to change.
Mine did not need that seal either, although I had one on hand just in case it did. And yes - they are a BEAR to get out. They are pressed in, and the outer edge of the seal is aluminum, a very tight press fit.
Thanks! Great video. I ordered all the parts and started on tue removal and wouldn’t you know it, I have a California bike and have a big canister in my way. Took me a minute or 15 to figure out how to remove it!
Hey Scott, I'm looking for answers on a particular Clutch issue that I can't get any results on searches in the forum, so thought I'd ask you directly here.. I bought a 2000' SE 1500 in Seattle with 50k on it,and headed back home to Florida with it riding 2 up and loaded down this past May of 2021. The Bike runs perfect and got us Home in 6k miles of travel bliss. However the clutch had me worried by the time I left Colorado in which we traveled extensively from Denver to Ouray and everything in between. Until then I had full clutch lever action with the friction zone and full engagement zone where they should be. But as you can imagine, I had done a lot of time in the friction zone with all the maneuvering in slanted parking lots and roadside pull-offs with a myriad of slope conditions. So by this time the rest of the trip home was done with the engagement zone quite far out with not much friction zone to use, thus making it kinda touchy! But never did have any clutch slippage at all and still don't at 58k miles on it. Also the condition didn't seem to come on gradually, but rather suddenly over an afternoon as best I can recall( my brain was rather frozen at times..lol) So my inclination tells me I lost material on my clutch plates. I still have a normal feeling clutch lever when depressing it (as far as having the right amount of freeplay at full out, to when you start feeling resistance when depressing the lever). I started out the trip with a fresh oil change using the oil of choice that Iv'e used in all my Wings (3 different 84' 1200's and a 99' Valkyrie) which is the Mobile 1 15W-40 that has the added Zinc.(no friction modifiers) Mid Trip, I did an oil change using the Mobile1 10w-40 Moto oil ( thinking maybe my viscosity was to high for the cold temps we were in.) So #1, does this sound like my issue? , and#2 what is the best choice for aftermarket clutch plates? And should the bearing for the clutch basket be replaced at the same time? Also could you guide me in how to post this and where on the forum, or maybe copy and paste it for me? My Handle is Wingerdinger1500 Thank you.. Dan
I am having this same issue with the same bike clutch felt fine when i bought it about a month later maybe 1k+ miles and i lost friction zone all the sudden making the clutch instantly engage when letting it out
Qué gran explicación amigo !!!! Mucha gracias Tengo una pregunta Cuando estoy en el tráfico por 20 minutos aprox se utiliza mucho el clutch Y después de un tiempo la manija del clutch se pone muy suave !! Entonces debo parar y dejar que se enfríe por unos 15 minutos Después todo vuelve a la normalidad Qué problema piensas que tiene mi goldwing?? Muchas Gracias
FIRST !!!You should have cleaned out the fluid in the M/C and bleed it out until clean fluid came out of the slave. I KNOW it means bleeding twice and takes a little longer. However this way you start off with clean fluid in the slave. That old fluid to be that nasty was over 3 yrs old.... very VERY corrosive stuff. Other than that, pretty good job. thx for posting.
After winter storage, there was no clutch at all on my 97 1500 - I found the master empty, and just filled it, bled it, and rode it home. Forgot all about it until l I started losing my clutch while out on a ride months later. Made it home and went straight to GWDocs and saw this. That was over a week ago and now I have the parts and am halfway through the job - slave is off. Firstly - what in the frack in that crystalized yellowish goo? Old fluid? Secondly, I don't have a vac pump, and am hoping to get away with cracking the lower banjo bolt till I get fresh fluid, torquing it back, and using the handle to bleed. Am I in for a tough time trying to not use a vac pump? Had it not been for this video, I may have lost an entire engine. Would have kept topping it off till winter storage maintenance when I do the larger jobs. Fresh oil and filter after the clutch is bled for damn sure! Thanks, man! I also would be remiss if I did not comment on the excellence of this video - well done!
You *should* be able to do it without a vacuum pump - it just makes it easier! That crystalized goo is what brake fluid looks like when it has leaked out and is exposed to the air for a while.
Questions : How would you know IF the clutch fluid got into the engine crankcase ? Smell ? How many miles would you go until ????? About two years ago, I had a HORRIBLE experience of having my clutch well go completely dry on me by my simply not knowing of it. Needless to say...I did no riding for that day ( it didn't let me, it would conk-out each time you attempted to put it in gear and of course it creeped for awhile too at one point ) so I put it back into neutral and rolled it back into my storage-stall and that was that. I opened the well and there was nothing in it. All old fluid, tan / brown in color and gone. It never was changed due to my ignorance and stupidity. Up to that day, the bike never failed. I never felt any difference in the shifting or clutch lever tension. All that time...and I never saw any leaks, either. I bought the bike in 2005. It was now 2021-2. Quite a span of time ! And miles. I'm not bragging, I'm worried ! So, where did it go ? Am I now a victim of my own stupidity ? All those years...and when I dry-docked it....never saw a leak. So, I had the clutch master cylinder re-built, the brake master cylinders front and rear, re-built, the Hypoid gear oil changed, new tires, etc. etc. Fast-forward now to the present. This time, I DO see a leak on the floor, small but significant. As I mentioned, this bike never leaked anything and I see to it that it doesn't because in my mind it never did and I plan to keep it that way. Wishful thinking ? So, I checked the well. Damn near dry.... again !! After frantically looking for answers, I came upon ( finally ) your video...and followed suit. This time it's for-sure, dripping down the slave cylinder and onto the floor. Plain as day. My concern is did I just ruin a perfectly fine bike from the time before this happened ?
The clutch system is closed. It does not "use up" fluid, the fluid should never go anywhere. If you are having to top up your clutch fluid because the reservoir is going dry, then you have a serious problem. Either the clutch fluid is leaking out somewhere (and you'll know because you'll see it dripping) or it's going into the crankcase. If you are having to "top up" your clutch fluid, and there is no obvious sign of a leak, then you have to assume it's going into the crankcase.
@@GoldwingDocs Sorry. I sent you a "comment." I'm new to this, so I guess "reply" was the way I should've answered. . So, here I go. I understand what you said. However, the first loss, I saw no leak. Did it go inside ? This time I caught the leak. How can I verify that it did ( or didn't ) go into the crankcase or not ? Would you be able to smell it in the old oil ? Is there any way to tell ? A test ? Back in 2021, when this first happened , as I mentioned, I never saw a leak. So, naturally I never looked for one. Like on your video...I got the same thing ( now ) as yours. Leaking down the cylinder cover...bubbly paint...but now there is cause. An actual visible leak ? If it is a doomed engine what will happen ? Is it even worth me getting a rebuild kit at this point, plus oil, filter and Dot 4 brake fluid ? I appreciate your thoughts on this. In other words: Before I scream "Scrap" I would like to get verification on a definite before I dispose of a perfectly fine running and looking antique bike with only 62,405 original miles on it. Thanks ( I hope )
I have just bought a 1988 Goldwing. It will not crank. Just makes a one click when you mash the start button. It does not have any fluid in the clutch reservoir and the clutch handle has no resistance. Is that normal for it not to turn over when there is no fluid in the clutch cylinder? I believe i am going to need to rebuild the slave cylinder. Just wondering if there is something else going on as well if. Thanks
What are the symptoms that led you to clean the slave cylinder? On my '08 GL1800, it feels like the clutch disengages quickly then I have all the movement in the lever while shifting. It feels like it engages again when the lever is almost all the way out and then feels clunky as I roll into the throttle. I hope I'm explaining my issue correctly. Thank you for any advice
Hola! Me gustan mucho sus videos, tengo una Goldwing 1999 y he aprendido mucho de usted, dónde puedo comprar los repuestos del clutch? Saludos desde la CDMX, México. Gracias!
Not shown (unfortunately) is how one gets UNDERNEATH to do this work! I'm sure you were either in a pit...or had some hoist to raise the front of the bike WAY up, right? That guidance would be helpful as to what the safe way to hoist a GL1500 way up in the front to get to this slave cylinder replacement.
Super helpful video! Q: I have seen other videos that state the Dot 4 brake fluid (with the clutch fully squeezed) will “eventually” trickle down to the Clutch Slave. Not the case for me so far and I want to try your vacuum pump method to pull/suck the oil down and into the casing but I don’t have a threaded fitting for my pump that fits in place of the bleed screw. Do you have any sizing or technical info on what you are using? Also, love your Tshirt - Sweetwater is a awesome place!
Scott, can I toss that evap canister that was blocking my access to the slave cylinder? Working on it right now... The job is done and actually all back together. I just want to know if I have to put that evap canister back in. Wouldn't see why I would have to. Thanks
after a race i had with a guy (tisk) and speed shifting my Valkyrie, just up, never down, i noticed my lever was catching just as you let it out, which it never did before. usually about center. Looked at fluid and about half gone but still above low mark. Filled it back up, all parts good, etc and its never gotten low again, window completely light yellow. Did that about a year ago. Now my clutch lever is grabbing at the very end, an inch or so is all you have to pull in to shift. So could this be air in the line i somehow pumped in while speed shifting that time or is that possible.? Is that what air in the line would cause?? Ill probably bleed it just to see. Good thing the valkyrie can all be done from the back with bike on a lift. If anyone thinks they know what this is, just respond, thanks
If the clutch is engaging JUST as you start to let the lever out, then yes, it's an indication that you could have air in the lines. If it's engaging at the very end of lever travel, that's more indicative that the return port is blocked in the master cylinder, so it needs cleaning and/or a rebuild. It can also indicate failing/blocked clutch hydraulic lines.
What about 87 1200 bleed the clutch or rebuild the master or slave cylinder where would you order parts and what do they call the price form the carb to the head mine is broken thank you cliff
Hi i have 1800 2001 one. My is doing some strange like grinding or something like that when it is in neutral. When i pull the clutch lever alwazs beeing in neutral the sound is gone. What can it be 106000km
I'm Larry and have a question about your web site on service and repair manuals. I would like to sign up for your manuals but first I want to know is that the same Goldwing Doc?
I hope you can answer a question. I put a different clutch in the 1500 a Barnett anyways took a while to bleed it. I'm still noticing that I may need a master cylinder rebuild kit cuz I seem a little leakage not a major drip just a little brake fluid around the rod that pushes in when you push the clutch in.. Being it was 3 to 4 monthsas I slowly put everything back together again when I had time to do it anyways it feels like I have a clutch I even removed the the slave cylinderand I just pushed on the clutch lever just a little bit to see if it was even moving out and the slave cylinder was moving out and also check make sure it wasn't leaking being I had to do some sanding wet fine sandpaper to get out some corrosion inside the cylinder. Anyways I tried to test the clutch after I finally got it started just put the gear shifter on to see if it rotate into gear and no I'm going to try to shift it into gear tomorrow and then pull the clutch in and see if it will start not sure what I could have done wrong being I followed everything in manual but manual is flawed on a few things too did not show how the push rod was to be acually located. Being there is a wire clip thought it be like a piston rod pushing it inside the tube then it would stop not exactly sure if it is in right cause no one made a video of that section of the wing being put together.is the Barnett clutch is worthless.
They are both refined mineral oil. Brake fluid is basically a special form of hydraulic oil that is used specially for braking, but with additives to allow it to tolerate the high temperatures encountered with brake systems. Technically speaking, any fluid (even water!) used to transfer force from one place to another is hydraulic fluid. It might not be what you put in your excavator, but it's still hydraulic fluid.
Just a thought, flush the reservoir and hose before reattaching the lower banjo bolt. That way, any of that gunk that made it into the hose will not travel through your newly cleaned slave cylinder when you bleed the system. Great video.
Great idea...I kind of did this because I undid the banjo bolt on the slave cylinder and allowed the reservoir to drain entirely down through the hose and into my catch basin.
I just ordered rebuild kits for the clutch system when I discovered I didn't have fluid in my master cylinder today. (almost made it out). No apparent leaking there, so I figured it must be at the slave. Knew you would have a "how to"! Thank you Scott for all the hard work!
Another SERIOUS money saving video for work that can be easily accomplished with great explanation and video reference. Thanks for all you do for our faithful steeds.
Your website and dedication to the goldwing is awesome it also make me appreciate the motorcycle more seeing how much time and energy goes into your vidoes and collection of resources for others thanks for the work you do.
I’m gonna help my father tackle this job today. I can’t thank you enough for this video. Also, this is one of the best repair videos I’ve ever seen. Straight to the point, excellent verbal explanation, and Steven Spielberg couldn’t have produced better video! Again, THANKS!
the fact that he didn't edit out the brake bleed oops and the chrome side panels weren't polished clean was cool, respect.
Nobody's perfect, and anyone who presents themselves as such is lying. :)
@@GoldwingDocs love the channel, I'm on the hunt for my first GW. Not giving up my klr tho.
I will get right on replacing mine! Great tip about checking for paint damage below slave cylinder to tell inside or outside leakage. I am praying for paint damage when I get under my bike (never thought I would ever be saying THAT)!
I bought a rebuild kit DP 0108-004/102 Clutch Slave Cylinder Piston + Repair Kit Compatible with Honda Sold by Main Street Cycles on Amazon, thanks for this video, I have clutch fluid going down but didn't know about how bad it was having Dot 4 in the oil or that it could do that, but after watching the starter video and then this video popped up and I had to watch it, parts will be here in three days max, it is getting good riding weather in Fla so don't want to wait 9 days Thank You again, great video
I got mine done today and It was all over the outside, I had hell getting the new piston and seal in but it finely went in the 10th or 15th time, the rest was easy after that, with the vacuum bleeder I got it done quick, I wasn't getting all my clutch so I'm shifting much more smoothly and have a full clutch now, Thank You again for the video that got er did
Oh my God!! what a great utube channel I thought I was on my own being a goldwing owner.
Il be ordering the bits to rebuild my clutch slave cylinder now, my gl1500 has travelled 160.000kms and I dont think its ever been touched. Great information Scott.....👌
You should check out our GL1500 "How To" section on the GoldwingDocs Forum. I think you'll be astounded with the amount of information there...
As a retread rider returning to the passion of my youth, I sought out a GL1500 Valkyrie just so I would not be on my own. But now I'm learning that Honda dealers are not interested in serving older generation Wings! Thank goodness for Scott & GoldwingDocs which will go a long way towards preservation.
My clutch just 'went out'....Reservoir empty! Hmmm, so that's where that brake fluid leak was coming from. Grrrrr. Thanks again Scott.
Followed this video for my 1990 GL1500 SE and the job was a breeze. Thanks Scott!
I don’t yet own a 1500 but at least now I know how to swap out the clutch seals and replace the fluid! Thanks Scott. Cheers from Montreal!
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. This helped me tremendously changing my slave cylinder. Keep up the great work on your videos
Thank you for this video just saved me from wasting 3k on 94 . Showed up and there was no pressure and no obvious leaks on the ground
Great video, a lot easier than I thought it would be!
Correction, it's the Mobile1 15W-50 oil, not 40...And I have also managed to get it posted on the forum as well. Thx
Your slave cylinder looked a whole lot better than mine when I rebuilt it. It had a bunch of crud and crystalized stuff in there. It was also on the clutch cover side. It is a pretty easy job to do. Fortunately, mine did not need the seal in the clutch cover either. I think that one would be fairly hard to change.
Mine did not need that seal either, although I had one on hand just in case it did. And yes - they are a BEAR to get out. They are pressed in, and the outer edge of the seal is aluminum, a very tight press fit.
Excellent video! I just completed the job without a hitch. Thank you!
I have a hitch. Will this still work?
Great educational lesson 👍 please more of these
Thanks! Great video. I ordered all the parts and started on tue removal and wouldn’t you know it, I have a California bike and have a big canister in my way. Took me a minute or 15 to figure out how to remove it!
Great job explaining
Great video. Thank you for doing this. Also love your news letter. If you ever get an 1800, I hope you will continue educating us.
Great job explaining the process!!!
Great video and very informative. Not too difficult at all.
Finally got my 1500 back, had to throw in the towel on the seal on the engine, ended up letting a independent shop handle it.
Hey Scott, I'm looking for answers on a particular Clutch issue that I can't get any results on searches in the forum, so thought I'd ask you directly here.. I bought a 2000' SE 1500 in Seattle with 50k on it,and headed back home to Florida with it riding 2 up and loaded down this past May of 2021. The Bike runs perfect and got us Home in 6k miles of travel bliss. However the clutch had me worried by the time I left Colorado in which we traveled extensively from Denver to Ouray and everything in between.
Until then I had full clutch lever action with the friction zone and full engagement zone where they should be. But as you can imagine, I had done a lot of time in the friction zone with all the maneuvering in slanted parking lots and roadside pull-offs with a myriad of slope conditions.
So by this time the rest of the trip home was done with the engagement zone quite far out with not much friction zone to use, thus making it kinda touchy! But never did have any clutch slippage at all and still don't at 58k miles on it.
Also the condition didn't seem to come on gradually, but rather suddenly over an afternoon as best I can recall( my brain was rather frozen at times..lol)
So my inclination tells me I lost material on my clutch plates. I still have a normal feeling clutch lever when depressing it (as far as having the right amount of freeplay at full out, to when you start feeling resistance when depressing the lever).
I started out the trip with a fresh oil change using the oil of choice that Iv'e used in all my Wings (3 different 84' 1200's and a 99' Valkyrie) which is the Mobile 1 15W-40 that has the added Zinc.(no friction modifiers) Mid Trip, I did an oil change using the Mobile1 10w-40 Moto oil ( thinking maybe my viscosity was to high for the cold temps we were in.)
So #1, does this sound like my issue? , and#2 what is the best choice for aftermarket clutch plates? And should the bearing for the clutch basket be replaced at the same time?
Also could you guide me in how to post this and where on the forum, or maybe copy and paste it for me?
My Handle is Wingerdinger1500
Thank you.. Dan
I am having this same issue with the same bike clutch felt fine when i bought it about a month later maybe 1k+ miles and i lost friction zone all the sudden making the clutch instantly engage when letting it out
Great video Scott, thanks
Excellent video!
Thank a lot for information
Qué gran explicación amigo !!!!
Mucha gracias
Tengo una pregunta
Cuando estoy en el tráfico por 20 minutos aprox se utiliza mucho el clutch
Y después de un tiempo la manija del clutch se pone muy suave !!
Entonces debo parar y dejar que se enfríe por unos 15 minutos
Después todo vuelve a la normalidad
Qué problema piensas que tiene mi goldwing??
Muchas Gracias
Thanks
Thanks for this video looks like it is not to bad of a job to do. Were you able to do it on the center stand or did you have to lift the bike ?
It was on the center stand, no lift required.
Very nice! I would recommend completely draining the system first via bleed screw
Yes, however the problem is, the bleed screw is actually higher up than the slave cylinder, so you will never be able to fully drain it.
@@GoldwingDocs oh I agree. Just looking for less mess. Actually you can remove all of it but it would require vacuum bleeder.
Thanks!
Good job bro
FIRST !!!You should have cleaned out the fluid in the M/C and bleed it out until clean fluid came out of the slave. I KNOW it means bleeding twice and takes a little longer. However this way you start off with clean fluid in the slave. That old fluid to be that nasty was over 3 yrs old.... very VERY corrosive stuff. Other than that, pretty good job. thx for posting.
Thanks. My still is ok but i will replace same way.
Great video. What type of grease should I use?
Could the cylinder being dirty be the cause of the clutch slipping? As soon as I press the lever the clutch is released. Tanks
If only it was this simple on the ST1300...
Scott does that mean you got to use hydraulic oil on it instead of brake fluid
Confused, where is the Clutch Slave rebuild?
why didn't you list the part # for the banjo washers?
What about if its leaking out the lever not below.
After winter storage, there was no clutch at all on my 97 1500 - I found the master empty, and just filled it, bled it, and rode it home. Forgot all about it until l I started losing my clutch while out on a ride months later. Made it home and went straight to GWDocs and saw this. That was over a week ago and now I have the parts and am halfway through the job - slave is off. Firstly - what in the frack in that crystalized yellowish goo? Old fluid? Secondly, I don't have a vac pump, and am hoping to get away with cracking the lower banjo bolt till I get fresh fluid, torquing it back, and using the handle to bleed. Am I in for a tough time trying to not use a vac pump?
Had it not been for this video, I may have lost an entire engine. Would have kept topping it off till winter storage maintenance when I do the larger jobs. Fresh oil and filter after the clutch is bled for damn sure! Thanks, man!
I also would be remiss if I did not comment on the excellence of this video - well done!
You *should* be able to do it without a vacuum pump - it just makes it easier! That crystalized goo is what brake fluid looks like when it has leaked out and is exposed to the air for a while.
Big thanks for all you do for us! Do you have a chosen type of fluid?
Nope, just usually the NAPA house brand.
Thank you, Scott. Can you tell me do I need a vaccuum bleeder or can it be done by pressing the lever?
Love that sweetwater teeshirt
Questions : How would you know IF the clutch fluid got into the engine crankcase ? Smell ? How many miles would you go until ????? About two years ago, I had a HORRIBLE experience of having my clutch well go completely dry on me by my simply not knowing of it. Needless to say...I did no riding for that day ( it didn't let me, it would conk-out each time you attempted to put it in gear and of course it creeped for awhile too at one point ) so I put it back into neutral and rolled it back into my storage-stall and that was that. I opened the well and there was nothing in it. All old fluid, tan / brown in color and gone. It never was changed due to my ignorance and stupidity. Up to that day, the bike never failed. I never felt any difference in the shifting or clutch lever tension. All that time...and I never saw any leaks, either. I bought the bike in 2005. It was now 2021-2. Quite a span of time ! And miles. I'm not bragging, I'm worried ! So, where did it go ? Am I now a victim of my own stupidity ? All those years...and when I dry-docked it....never saw a leak. So, I had the clutch master cylinder re-built, the brake master cylinders front and rear, re-built, the Hypoid gear oil changed, new tires, etc. etc. Fast-forward now to the present. This time, I DO see a leak on the floor, small but significant. As I mentioned, this bike never leaked anything and I see to it that it doesn't because in my mind it never did and I plan to keep it that way. Wishful thinking ? So, I checked the well. Damn near dry.... again !! After frantically looking for answers, I came upon ( finally ) your video...and followed suit. This time it's for-sure, dripping down the slave cylinder and onto the floor. Plain as day. My concern is did I just ruin a perfectly fine bike from the time before this happened ?
The clutch system is closed. It does not "use up" fluid, the fluid should never go anywhere. If you are having to top up your clutch fluid because the reservoir is going dry, then you have a serious problem. Either the clutch fluid is leaking out somewhere (and you'll know because you'll see it dripping) or it's going into the crankcase.
If you are having to "top up" your clutch fluid, and there is no obvious sign of a leak, then you have to assume it's going into the crankcase.
@@GoldwingDocs Sorry. I sent you a "comment." I'm new to this, so I guess "reply" was the way I should've answered. . So, here I go. I understand what you said. However, the first loss, I saw no leak. Did it go inside ? This time I caught the leak. How can I verify that it did ( or didn't ) go into the crankcase or not ? Would you be able to smell it in the old oil ?
Is there any way to tell ?
A test ? Back in 2021, when this first happened , as I mentioned, I never saw a leak. So, naturally I never looked for one. Like on your video...I got the same thing ( now ) as yours. Leaking down the cylinder cover...bubbly paint...but now there is cause. An actual visible leak ? If it is a doomed engine what will happen ? Is it even worth me getting a rebuild kit at this point, plus oil, filter and Dot 4 brake fluid ? I appreciate your thoughts on this. In other words: Before I scream "Scrap" I would like to get verification on a definite before I dispose of a perfectly fine running and looking antique bike with only 62,405 original miles on it. Thanks ( I hope )
I have just bought a 1988 Goldwing. It will not crank. Just makes a one click when you mash the start button. It does not have any fluid in the clutch reservoir and the clutch handle has no resistance. Is that normal for it not to turn over when there is no fluid in the clutch cylinder? I believe i am going to need to rebuild the slave cylinder. Just wondering if there is something else going on as well if. Thanks
So while editing this video, I noticed something else obviously wrong with my GL1500 that shouldn't take too long to fix. Anyone catch it besides me?
I missed it. Please let me know. My bike has about 77,000 miles, so should be expecting wear problems.
What are the symptoms that led you to clean the slave cylinder? On my '08 GL1800, it feels like the clutch disengages quickly then I have all the movement in the lever while shifting. It feels like it engages again when the lever is almost all the way out and then feels clunky as I roll into the throttle. I hope I'm explaining my issue correctly. Thank you for any advice
The slave cylinder was leaking, so it was definitely time to rebuild it.
Hola! Me gustan mucho sus videos, tengo una Goldwing 1999 y he aprendido mucho de usted, dónde puedo comprar los repuestos del clutch? Saludos desde la CDMX, México.
Gracias!
Excelente.
Not shown (unfortunately) is how one gets UNDERNEATH to do this work! I'm sure you were either in a pit...or had some hoist to raise the front of the bike WAY up, right? That guidance would be helpful as to what the safe way to hoist a GL1500 way up in the front to get to this slave cylinder replacement.
Nope. I just laid down next to the bike on the floor while it was on its center stand. You don't need that much clearance.
Question: I don't see the charcoal canister under your bike. Not having it makes this repair very easy. Did you take yours off prior to the video?
That canister exists only on California-spec bikes.
Is it the same for GL1200 Aspencade
Yes, pretty much identical.
What grease you using for the piston and actuator?
Just a generic white lithium grease, but any decent grease would do.
Super helpful video! Q: I have seen other videos that state the Dot 4 brake fluid (with the clutch fully squeezed) will “eventually” trickle down to the Clutch Slave. Not the case for me so far and I want to try your vacuum pump method to pull/suck the oil down and into the casing but I don’t have a threaded fitting for my pump that fits in place of the bleed screw. Do you have any sizing or technical info on what you are using?
Also, love your Tshirt - Sweetwater is a awesome place!
Can hear my slave cylinder make a squelching noise when operating the lever, time for seals I think......
Scott, where can I get those cover securement straps? I've called them everything I can think of and looked everywhere and haven't come close.
Come back for tomorrow's video. :)
I had to rebuild the master clutch cylinder on my GL-1200 and of curse i had to bleed it.
What kind of safety lanyards do you have attached to your side covers?
They are Rudy's "keeper" products: goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=9503
Scott, can I toss that evap canister that was blocking my access to the slave cylinder? Working on it right now...
The job is done and actually all back together. I just want to know if I have to put that evap canister back in. Wouldn't see why I would have to. Thanks
For sure. It's only there to meet California emissions. The bike will work 100% fine without it.
@@GoldwingDocs Thx, exactly what i was thinking.
Could somebody out there answer my question besides Scott if you can let me know
after a race i had with a guy (tisk) and speed shifting my Valkyrie, just up, never down, i noticed my lever was catching just as you let it out, which it never did before. usually about center. Looked at fluid and about half gone but still above low mark. Filled it back up, all parts good, etc and its never gotten low again, window completely light yellow. Did that about a year ago. Now my clutch lever is grabbing at the very end, an inch or so is all you have to pull in to shift. So could this be air in the line i somehow pumped in while speed shifting that time or is that possible.? Is that what air in the line would cause?? Ill probably bleed it just to see. Good thing the valkyrie can all be done from the back with bike on a lift. If anyone thinks they know what this is, just respond, thanks
If the clutch is engaging JUST as you start to let the lever out, then yes, it's an indication that you could have air in the lines. If it's engaging at the very end of lever travel, that's more indicative that the return port is blocked in the master cylinder, so it needs cleaning and/or a rebuild. It can also indicate failing/blocked clutch hydraulic lines.
What about 87 1200 bleed the clutch or rebuild the master or slave cylinder where would you order parts and what do they call the price form the carb to the head mine is broken thank you cliff
Hi i have 1800 2001 one. My is doing some strange like grinding or something like that when it is in neutral. When i pull the clutch lever alwazs beeing in neutral the sound is gone. What can it be 106000km
I'm Larry and have a question about your web site on service and repair manuals. I would like to sign up for your manuals but first I want to know is that the same Goldwing Doc?
I hope you can answer a question. I put a different clutch in the 1500 a Barnett anyways took a while to bleed it. I'm still noticing that I may need a master cylinder rebuild kit cuz I seem a little leakage not a major drip just a little brake fluid around the rod that pushes in when you push the clutch in.. Being it was 3 to 4 monthsas I slowly put everything back together again when I had time to do it anyways it feels like I have a clutch I even removed the the slave cylinderand I just pushed on the clutch lever just a little bit to see if it was even moving out and the slave cylinder was moving out and also check make sure it wasn't leaking being I had to do some sanding wet fine sandpaper to get out some corrosion inside the cylinder. Anyways I tried to test the clutch after I finally got it started just put the gear shifter on to see if it rotate into gear and no I'm going to try to shift it into gear tomorrow and then pull the clutch in and see if it will start not sure what I could have done wrong being I followed everything in manual but manual is flawed on a few things too did not show how the push rod was to be acually located. Being there is a wire clip thought it be like a piston rod pushing it inside the tube then it would stop not exactly sure if it is in right cause no one made a video of that section of the wing being put together.is the Barnett clutch is worthless.
Where can I get a aftermarket switch for top cover?
This is the one I have: amzn.to/3EbTBdS
Thanks. I have a question about how to change the clutch house?
Hose
My clutch leaked at them lever seal. Going to do slave anyways to make sure its ok.
Use box wrench and do a reverse fill. Would push the air back wards. Works for me.
Is it just me or does it look like he didn't have a clutch when he pulled the lever?
you didn't show if the clutch resovior should be locked down before squeezing the clutch handle...
It's not pressurized, you can operate the clutch with the reservoir cover off with no problem.
Wow
Brake fluid is not hydraulic fluid. Two different chemical compounds.
They are both refined mineral oil. Brake fluid is basically a special form of hydraulic oil that is used specially for braking, but with additives to allow it to tolerate the high temperatures encountered with brake systems.
Technically speaking, any fluid (even water!) used to transfer force from one place to another is hydraulic fluid. It might not be what you put in your excavator, but it's still hydraulic fluid.
So what magical kind of fluid is the brake fluid that is used in HYDRAULIC clutches and HYDRAULIC brakes?