In canada we have what is called TTGT. The rules are much simpler, the only modifications allowed is spec tires and a lipo. No shocks , no driveshaft , no turnbuckle etc. Truly box stock. Its an easy way to get into steering.
@@SANDSCORCHER Yes ! Pogo stick and everything! The ONLY upgrades allowed are bearings and front CV axles on the TT02 since its a design flaw in the kit. I run a TT01 so I only added bearings. Its really fun to race , the Pogo stick arent bad at all with the stock speed anyway.
@ warracer03 I was thinking to myself that HAD to be total chaos at every race😆👍🏻 About twenty years ago I bought one if the first XB cars. It was a TL-01 Lancer Evo VI and came with the dreaded friction shocks. Just bashing was appalling and it spent more time with its tires in the air than on the tarmac so I had to get shocks for it immediately. You guys must have some impeccable running surface there😎👌🏻
@ warracer03 I wasn’t aware there was an issue with the TT02. Is it down to crap dog bones or is it an out-drive problem, or something else ? I’ve actually got a TT02 and about three TT01s but I’ve never built or run any of them😆🤦🏻♂️ I really should get round to it, but I don’t race and I already have a ton of money invested in my TL01, my TA04 and my unfinished twin motor TA03 which are all basically for late night, drunken winter car park bashing😁👍🏻
Our track is basic rules. We only race box stock. We can upgrade tires, Diff fluid, and bearing.....but that is. I like it. It makes the racing really fun. (Indoor Carpet)
While I understand the rules frustration, someone makes decisions at clubs on rules. Typically these are structured to the owners or a general consensus likings based off a rule structure from a standing general rule set. Most of us "beginners/club racers" don't travel out from our local track. Where I live, tracks are about 1.5hrs away from each other. You have to be very committed to racing to move around for racing. Its the same in the crawling world, guys will take Sorca rules and mod them for their own points series. The key is to stick with it. I know for guys that travel it would be a pain, but options in your hobby is a good thing, better than nothing which quite honestly is a bigger problem with the LHS shutting down all over. (at least in the states). If this is the biggest problem that you face in rc, count your blessings.
We race lots of classes so we have approx 7 tracks we can visit with 45mins all running different disciplines so we cannot complain.. it’s just a shame some classes don’t have a little more consistency
I basically bring this big toolbox with every spare part I have, anywhere the car goes, so I can make it to spec on site Also handy when you tend to drive beyond your limits, and things start to break
Running regularly at Stevenage I take the motor out every week to clean and lube it, so fitting a different motor for another club is not really an issue, though if you have to change spur as well that's a bit of of a game on the TT01. The batteries are an issue I accept, NiMh's are lower quality and I would prefer to run LiPo's but since Stevenage is less than 5 minutes from home I can live with NiMh's.
Mate, you’re absolutely right. It’s really bad. Having a look at the rules for the Tamiya TCS Series and it’s pretty much black and white what can and can’t be used. This is good because for consistency. However, what makes it hard is that some Tamiya replacement parts and hop-ups are EXTREMELY hard to come by and no one wants to pay scalper prices for a steering post from the TRF417, which the TT-02 uses in the aluminum steering upgrade set. I think some flexibility in the rules should be explored universally since 1) global stock is running low and 2) some of the needed replacement parts are never going to ever be reproduced. But this issue does tie into yours as different tracks will be more lenient on which hop-ups can be used and which ones can’t. Again, more consistency would be greatly appreciated so that we as racers can take ONE car (because some of us can only afford ONE car) and run wherever we’d like and just bring the parts suitable for the track on that day. But yeah mate, not just a local or national thing but rather globally.
@@PopalongRCI was rather hoping 3D printing would help with the ‘buy a whole spruce tree for one part’ problem…but it doesn’t seem to be the case thus far (maybe cost of printing as well as poor base material are some of the issues putting most folks with 3D printers off from going down this route).
You have a point, that’s why down my way all 3 clubs that are local all run the same rules for Tamiya stock class, so we can race at all 3 clubs and not have to make changes to the cars, I think that’s a good think for clubs to communicate and come up with a set of rules that goes for all of them. Only other way to do it would be for the brca to set rules for a Tamiya stock class and that be the standard for all club that race to brca rules ?
In New Zealand we have the nzrca. We have the same rules from club to club around the country. But there isn't a tt class on that list. Our club runs a tt02 stock class but it isn't a national thing.
We have BRCA that governs most classes and put forward main rules.. but TT01 is a class that lots off clubs use for beginners but no hard and fast rule
Where can I find this list of rules for the "1/10 Touring Car" that you mention regarding weight, height, width and so on? I'm just starting to learn about touring car racing and I am curious about a lot of the things you explained in this video. Specifically where to find specific rule sets.
Build your car to the lowest spec of rules then it's legal everywhere. Things like oil shocks aren't actually necessary despite what your logic tells you. Iconic rounds have been won with low spec cars. Just because it says you can fit X and Y doesnt mean you need to.
This is exactly why I stopped RC car racing. If it's not rule bending it's an extra set of tyres or the latest motor or battery. A stock class should mean stock.
Don't like when they allow upgrades in "stock" class. They should have 3 classes 1 out of box silvercan nimh (newbies and budget) 2 specific club rules 3 unlimited. Totally agree with newbie friendliness. Many drivers need to master a silver can before spending all the money. You can't buy skill 😂
Yes I would buy skill if it was possible.. I certainly need it 😊 One of the best thing about your channel for me is that it is about entry kit racing. And how cool it is when all cars are more or less the same. I hope you have fun with your trucks. Can't wait to see some races.
What's your thoughts on the billet aluminum and carbon framed TT01 clones? I have two of the clones, one with a 55T spur 36T pinion and a 4300KV on a 4S lipo. Stupid fast The other is a 57t spur and a 23T pinion 5700KV motor on 3S. I built it drifting but with rubber tires, I don't do those plastic tires.
@@PopalongRC oh interesting but it makes sense to keep the field even. At my work I got some of the guys into racing FPV around the shop. Right now there's 5 of us but we have more people wanting to get into it. It's stupid fun, feel like a video game but real haha. I have a few videos on my channel but I haven't uploaded any of the good ones yet.
I have a mitsubishi Evo kit that I think I'm going to build as a Rally-ish setup... Will definitely do a couple mods to suspension, steering, and do oil shocks... as well as some drivetrain mods and 13.5t brushless setup.
Iconic cup runs at several venues but all other clubs run their own rules … at Popalong gp we ran a hybrid to get as many people involved me as possible ..
Yeah I agree. Can’t see why every club wouldn’t use the core21 motor, it’s better than the Tamiya motors and much cheaper. Also lipo’s are so much better too.
I think so too😂. Luckily for me Aylesbury, Leighton Buzzard and Milton Keynes all have the same rules and are pretty relaxed even if you turned up with a car that’s not quite to spec. Hopefully will see you at the track again soon, interested to see the TC again
Completely agree with you there. Here's my story about just wanting to drive on a track. I got in contact with a local buggy club and asked if I could come and have a go on their track, they said yes and I said that I had a traxxas slash. They said big no-no because it's 1/10th and they run 1/8th. I stayed polite and said that the slash is sized more towards 1/8th and they said that it's not the same and that it would be a hinderence to other drivers because it's not fast enough. Afterwards they said they have rules and if they start letting anyone join it will be degrading the club etiquette. I've decided to stay in the park and do my own thing.
Not defending them but they are right A Traxxas Slash is a 1/10 sct, tad smaller than a 1/8 buggy. Guessing if they run a Short Course Truck series you would have been allowed to take part if its like a fun day sort of thing. I own 2 Traxxas Slashes (RWD) and understand where you're comming from but also understand the club rules are probaby in place not because of one guy lording it over others but because most at the club agreed the rules of what can and cant be run. Is it a pain - up,but it is what it is sadly. I say this as I too wanted to run mine at a club track but no one near me runs sct's - I have to trek to another part of the country to be able to take part lol
That is a real shame and clubs need to make the hobby accessible not elitist… I understand why they have rules but I think factoring in a clas to invite beginners into the hobby is essential
More so as there are not universal rules as a guide GT12 have national rules most clubs follow and with TC it is the same … with TT01e there is the addition of hop up restrictions which vary club to club…
Does the track type influence this E.g. bigger track motor/battery changes for most fun (vs budget), smaller track handling mods = more fun (same budget different mods)? Is the shear flexibility of the TT-chassis causing this issue but also what existing club members want to run?
For us there is the iconic cup which runs at 5-6 big outdoor tracks over the summer and for this you can run a TT01 or TT01e and that is it. There are limited hop ups which you can see in our tt01 build video. Motor is fixed and tyres are free to choose. Then west London have a race series with slightly different spec but they allow iconic cup cars to compete. These tracks are massive so we chose to stick with Torque tuned motors for indoor clubs. However the motors were not lasting and we introduced the core 21 as an cheaper cooler and more durable motor. Very similar speed but quicker towards end of race as the torque tune were overheating. With regards spec we run almost identical rules as iconic so ther is an element of one car fits all. That being said if you watch our vid on car set up for indoor cars vs outdoor you will see all the changes that are made within the rules.
I found this when I first started. Everyone said go tamiya tourers as its a good beginners car which is cheap, which in a way it is. But like you say there was so many variations in what upgrades you can do plus by the time you brought a few up grades to make the car better or simply work like the tt02 you might as well brought a tourer type carbon/alloy rolling chassis that doesn't need modifications. I personally think the best and cheapest beginners car would be the tamiya m07, good beginners car with a silver can fitted. Plus it's kind of race ready that can later be fitted with a brushless combo setup for some faster racing with out really needing to modify unless you want to.
the M07 is a great chassis . we have a friend of the channel who is putting a 21 turn brushless set up in it to run at the MTC frontie nationals this year
@@PopalongRC sounds interesting would like to see how it compares. There is a few tourer fronties at my locol club at Sidcup racing but I think they are the standard size not the mini.
Spot on i don’t agree with allowing trf type socks on any of the tamiya classes. If you go that route you may as well just run a modern touring car which is what you guys
Stumbled upon your video and found the rules hilarious. I sometimes wonder if it's purely the older generation RC guys setting these rules being so hell bett that they forget about growing the community 21.5t TC is popular in Australia and I'm glad is that you set it on blinky and run at 7.4v you're all good
It’s funny how the term stock seems to no longer be something along the lines of ‘straight out the box’ as it were. I can see why this would seem a tad off putting for anyone thinking of getting into the hobby.
Excuse me if I offend the Mighty T, but why can't we use other makes in these series? I mostly run 1/10 RallyX on a mostly dirt track, but am looking at M class racing over the winter, and everyone seems to think that it's cheaper and fairer to run TT02 or M07. I prefer my HPI RS4 sport3, which came as a rolling chassis with full metal drivetrain and bearings throughout. A mate drives the Maverick Strada TC and the Absima is just as good and all are probably cheaper than a TT02 once you've added all the Hop Up parts. None of them are competition touring cars, but they are great for the beginner.
We have explored running a tub chassis class which would open up other options … there would need to be at least one constant I guess in ordered to make it a level playing field
@@PopalongRC yeah, we run torque tuned motor, so its all about the driver, but it's very easy for new drivers to get involved as there are so many chassis to choose from.
Noob: What do I need to start racing? Hobby shop: about 6 cars, both lipo and nimh’s, multi chemistry charger, rx for each, transponder for each track if different, computer radio, hop up parts for each car, tires, additive, …… oh your on a budget??!!! Have you seen the skateboards in aisle 3?
for me what defines the TT01 and TT02 class is bown stock low spec only allowable stuff would be oil shocks, all around bearings, but everything else like the motor be stock silvercan tamiya
You make some very good points, I like oil filed shocks but others say no to shocks. As this is a performance improver. I like aluminium drive shaft for durability but some say stay with plastic stock I like core 21 or torque as an option as torque tuned motors Ive run only lasted about 4 race meets where as core lasts double that and is cheaper so keeps price down. I’m sure I could make a case for all rules and see why they do it but it would be nice if there was a standard set
Soo I got a question for anyone who might see this, im running a tt01e (this is a personal build not for racing) and I put in a 150a spektrum esc, with the reedy 3300kv brushless, it has semi locked diffs(i used a plyable silicone ear plug for rear and a thick grease for the front)oil filled shocks and aluminum drive shafts and drive line, and aluminum tire hubs (to help balance the wheels) however I can't find any good tires and im unsure of the spec size for a set of foams on this car, can anyone guide me to the right spot
@@PopalongRC It's built for speed and solely that, I've tried a couple different wheels and street tires it hoons up and just slides excessively, so I tried a softer road rubber and they Ballon up and just body slams the cars, I ordered foam tires and ended up getting a 1/5 size tires, thankfully I could fit them on my sc10, but I can't seem to locate specs for tires I need
Hi Karl, just found this video, but totally agree! I believe in a Tamiya Stock class, for all the reasons you mention, proper entry level! -I'd love that to be a starting point for my boy too... -I'm local to one of the clubs you've mentioned and find the rules problematic, -turned out cheaper to buy a 2nd hand pro touring car than buy the upgrades needed to compete in Tamiya Stock! Frustrated :(
100% agree . There needs to be Local club series spec set of guidelines that all clubs can follow. These can be set up in AB &c classes According to the competition level. This way theoretically you could set your car up for a C series class and be able to race it at all local clubs that way.The problem is getting local clubs to follow these guidelines.... As much as we try to make the experience welcoming and warming to new racers most clubs are very clicky and localized in who they allow to be a part of that click.
Used to race the Original tt01 in the Tamiya eurocup. It was brilliant until the hobby company stuck their oar in and spoiled it. Martin reader and Stephen fabrey ran it. Only mods allowed were wheel hex’s, propshaft, turnbuckles, bearings and sport tuned motor. That was about 20 years ago, I tried to convince local clubs to take up the class but they all turned their noses up at the idea. They thought it was too amateurish lol. These toy car racers that think they are professional… Now a local off-road club has started Up an indoor series running tt02 so I’m getting back into Tamiya spec racing and it like the good old days :)
How often do people switch clubs though? It’s not unusual that you would need a spec car per series and they may clash with club rules. Understand the frustration though. Having a stock class where all hop ups are allowed is hilarious and ridiculous.
Yeah, its a problem with TT01 classes, as it should probably be more stock, than people allow them to be, because then you run into exactly this issue. Personally I think the beginner class should be out of the box with ball bearings added, the TT01 is decent enoush as is. If you want more capable cars, move to TC class. Also, allowing a TT02SR, which is usually banned from any stock class, to race with TT-01 shows a sever lack of understanding about what the TT02SR is. The big plus with TT01 is that its still a pretty cheap and cheerful RC, but might be best to race it at your local areas and set it up for that. Take the TC to other events.
I know why the clubs change the rule to suit but I agree that in the right hands the TT01 is a great car and we have a video running a stock out the box TT02 on the channel.
@@PopalongRC Well each area has preferences, and even the people participating might have different interests. You often hear, in my local area, people wanting to put oilshocks into their trucks for example. But for a beginner class, adding oilshocks, will ONLY make the faster people faster, as they actually know what they are doing with shock oils and different springs. Same with other adjustable upgrades to a stock car. Which is exactly what should be discussed in a basic class like a TT-01. IS there much point putting lots of adjustable hopups on it, when you're basically turning the class into a bad TC class, when there already is a TC class anyway, where you can tinker with the settings of the car ad infinitum. The best part about un-adjustable stock classes, is that its the same for everyone. Obviously if you have a class with TT-01s with all the aluminium hop-ups, and even allow TT-02SRs, which are basicly capable TCs, the class will be quite pointless, as you cant really just buy a TT01 and race in it. But it looks like unifying these starter classes, would require a lot of top down work from whatever national or regional RC class governing bodies, that probably isnt gonna happen, so you're stuck with a mess of classes under the same name, but not overall rules. I really like the TT01. I love the Truck class, exactly because over here theres basicly no adjustable stuff on it, keeps it all very simple. Just slap in your battery and race, and replace tires when they wear out. I think one of the biggest problems in RC racing hobby in general is that there are so many classes, that it very easily divided a quite large participant group into small classes, and then it kills the intrests in the hobby, as every random class has like less than 10 participants. Its a bit like pvp computer games, if there's too many game modes, theres the danger of not having enough participants per game mode, and your game which has nice amounts of gamers overall, dies from having too few gamers per game mode. :P
Carl, I couldn’t agree more. For me the issue is in a clubs ability to write their own rules, and I guess they are entitled to but it does create this challenge. Maybe this is something that should be looked at by the BRCA. If they published ‘club’ rules we would then have a set of common rules that clubs can adopt, making it possible to run a chassis at multiple clubs? Buster.
As this stage to implore a generic set of rules would alienate so many clubs and drivers … I plan to get a car suitable for Stevenage … might just build one out the box spec …
Why isn't the class standardised by brca ? I can't believe some places run nimhs lol I mean I can understand for a laugh doing whacky things but not permanently for a race series
Spot on! I don't agree with allowing TRF type shocks on any of the Tamiya classes. If you go that route you may as well just run a modern touring car which is what you guys are now doing. The FTX Banzai would make a much better class as the car itself needs zero upgrades. We attempted to get a class going at my local club and it was doing quite well but then pandemic hit and now we just have a rookie class. Xpress have just announced a sport version of their new prop shaft car in and it's only about £170 RRP
The Banzai shocks are not too dissimilar to the yeah racing shocks that are run on many tamiyas I just want more people joining the hobby and enjoying the hobby and sometimes we as a community don’t make it easy enough for everyone
@@PopalongRC exactly the same as myself and my local club, I believe the realistic bodies is one of the best ways to get new people into onroad racing which is why FWD is taking off.
It seems its the biggest issue for the touring cars where its tamiya cars, luckly im only looking at the iconic races next year. So the cars good to go minus its bodyshell. I dont think i have room for 2/3 touring chassis 😂
@@PopalongRC yeah, i only race vintage buggys, 10.5 motor limit is the norm, and only big events have rules on mods. Clubs its pretty much do as you please 😎
@@PopalongRC lots of fun, but most are very gentlemanly, some hard to find parts you dont want to break. But im looking forward to april and the 1st iconic round 😎
Because I'm thinking about an European racing truck your video was very value for me, althought I don' want to take part in competitions😉 Exact rules would be better depending on the class not on the track or club.
Honestly, I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Spec classes like this are meant to be for new and casual racers, people who aren't really going to be traveling from track to track to run. As such, the variance in rulesets wouldn't be an issue. It's only really an issue for people who go to multiple clubs. Personally I'd actually have two different spec classes for the TT02 (more specifically the TT02B since my racing interest is predominantly off-road) if I was running a track - Box-stock and Chassis-spec. Box stock would be _the_ stock gear - stock motor and ESC, budget-limited servo (with GoBilda banned by name because they have really silly robotics servos for super-low prices), with the only allowances being open tire, open servo saver/horn and a LiPo, and with the "upgraded" TT02BR and TT02B MS kits being banned. Even bodies would be restricted - you'd HAVE to run either a Dual Ridge, Plasma Edge II or Neo Scorcher with the wing it came with, no aftermarket bodies or wings allowed. Chassis-spec would be 21.5t 2S Blinky with voltage check (maximum 4v per cell or you don't race - this is to keep people from intentionally overcharging their batteries for extra power), with all hop-ups included in the TT02BR and TT02B MS kits or equivalent parts allowed, plus aluminum knuckles and front uprights. No body or wing restrictions, open tire. Of course, this will all be on _proper_ dirt, not clay or carpet, as I find lower-traction surfaces to be a "great equalizer" of sorts where car control matters more than pushing the vehicle's limits.
It can be very frustrating going from club to club, as you say they do have different rules. I run at Stevenage, but I race in the truck class with a TT01e and I'm now running the Team Powers FFV3M FWD car in Touring car, love racing them both. Personally I'd like to see the Core RC 21t motor used for 'stock' rather than the Tamiya Sport or Torque tuned, the Core motor is a lot cheaper and generally easier to get hold of. Also, I don't like the 'Tamiya only hop ups' rules that some places run, if they wat to keep it cost effective that's not the way to go, a lot of the Tamiya hop-ups are way too expensive. Great video, look forward to seeing you at Stevenage soon mate👍
i think keep them box stock just add bearings too keep a level playing fiuld and a cheap entry for new players in rc or even experianced guys too really learn race craft/corner speed /driving in traffic and good pack racing skills and its good for club too have new members that will stick around with a chance at running with every other car ,, when we start adding mods the top guys allways run up front and the new guys only stay for a few months at best befor leaving with rising cost having too buy this and that or just getting lapped every race, best keep it a entry level good tight racing class and once funds or love for racing grows with these members then they can step up a class and or leave with out high entry level costs
Always frustrating when what is essentially the same class has these small differences in their rules. Defeats the object of it being a cost effective entry level class when there is the need to have 3 or 4 different chassis' to suit the different events you want to take part in. Lack of clarity in rules and politics between different factions is sadly what cost MTC having the chance to be the perfect club level class. I'm still hopeful this will turn around for MTC but I don't think it'll become what it should have, and the basic stock Tamiya TT class could also suffer the same way if people get frustrated having to make changes to attend each club or series they want to run in.
Cheers Adam, thanks for getting involved, Looking forward to popping along to race with you soon … not sure what car to bring … What options are there at Kettering ?
@@PopalongRC Our biggest class is MTC, we have a fairly typical small'ish indoor club track and the smaller size of the MTC's suit it perfectly. But we also run TC so there is the option of running the new cars you guys have too. Best thing to do is keep an eye on our Facebook group as i post the overall results up every week so you'll be able to gauge the numbers attending in each class. Feel free to drop me a PM anytime if you need any more info.
Your issue is a global one. It is even a problem in touring car to a certain extent. Either way, love your vids. Curious if you have a part number for that awesome yellow Subaru body. Cheers.
Hi, you went 4 minutes and no said the problem with the rc car, I'm sorry you're confused the rules of the rc tracks is what you think make the rc car a problem, remember rc problems are good they will make you a more smart, but practice will make you a better rc driver, Thanks for the video...
the brca and all the clubs are responsible , the tt01 has been around for almost 20 years !, the brca is a pretty useless organisation if clubs arent working to homologation rules and clubs arent pressuring the brca to build a race classification structure to bring in new drivers to the hobby . EVERYONE i have known who gets into the hobby wants the same thing , low cost but still quick class of racing ,to get access to entry level and true stock racing . that goes for on or off road ,, after 40 years in the hobby i discovered the brca is not and never has provided this essential first control class . trf 420 next to box stock tt01 in a race ??,, gt12 could have been good but like most classes has become a race to see who has the biggest wallet . its a sad state of affairs when compared to other nations rc car racing scene .😘
Some interesting points made and it is frustrating for sure.. I don’t think anyone is at fault as clubs try to accommodate the regulars but it would make sense to run a generic set of rules as a stock class
100% agree. Personally, I'm amazed & jealous you have 5? local tracks/clubs to race in. Usually don't local club members set the class rules by vote? I used to run USA Tamiya- TCS classes each year seriously & stock & modified locally @ a local outdoor track. Last 14 years no dedicated track within 150KM so gave up + local R/C car clubs disbanded & stores moved/shut down. Now over 300KM to nearest TCS race. imho Doesn't every mildly serious hobby racer eventually collect 4+ cars/kits? Run 2-3 different cars/setups in a race weekend? Granted 4+ just TT01/2 IS a bit excessive/ridiculous/ expensive. Personally anyplace that still requires silver can or Tamiya tuned motors would be off my list. Brushed sucks & I can remember a handful of spec class brushed can "cheat/tuning" tricks still. There are always strong & weak brushed motors, + they wear out. Always. Looking forward to your Schumacher? vids. I'm looking @ 10th scale modified class competitive on road kits too. Radio wise, I'm interested in opinions/differences between Sanwa vs. Futaba vs. Spektrum as I plan to get back into 2wd/4wd buggy. Prev I've always run Futaba but starting over looking for changes. & plan to travel to race seriously after a lot of practice. Kids grow up. Here we get HW thru Tower Hobbies apparently now. My then 7-14 yo Son had the most fun turn marshalling & was a crowd favorite & immediately accepted @ every race or event. He loved building & tuning, didn't enjoy the responsibility of driving. Great F&S memories though. 😊😓. Enjoy it 👍 BTW a good simulator program you can use w/your Tx is a great in between club nights practice tool. Used 1 for r/c planes & helicopters too.
Great comment So much in there I’m will you when it comes to brushed reliability and consistency. Guess having so many clubs to visit is a blessing and we should not grumble. We plan another radio gear video and also hoping to add a Schumacher to the collection soon so watch this space.
And this is why I cant be bothered with the clubs. If racing has so many different rules per club - its just too much hassle. Scrutinising a toy before and after every race for something that is supposed to be fun. The improvements and hop ups are part of trying to be number one on the track surely. Anyway who cares. I wont bother with clubs after seeing this video. Just keep it amongst mates and send it.
LMAO try auto racing brother. I hear your gripes but being an RC guy also, I try not to get my feathers ruffled getting RC hop up and doing the swaps. Can build numerous TT01 cars for the price of the carbs on my 514 BBF and they take up about the same space lol. It's just a perspective to consider not talking $hit. Great points in this video and you got a subscribe from this Ol cowboy.
So… in truth it has nothing to do with TT-01 or TT-02. The same difficulties arise with TRAXXAS Slash racing, or any other brand/model entry level racing. Getting clubs to agree a definition of “stock” is the problem.
Lmao the biggest problem is it’s not intended for racing. Buy a real chassis and then build it. The TT01/02 is good as a chassis to hold a body for display and nothing else.
Ive got two of these..one is 💯 original..the other has 100mm oil filled shocks..ballraced throughout..planetary diff..cnc motor mounts etc..ive introduced it to a hobbywing ezrun max 10..diffs good but it shredded old tech cogs..bugger..however if you give it full throttle it wheelspins at roughly 25mph and tries to backflip at the same time..3s is brutal..and effing quick..does anybody manufacture the said cogs to maintain said power..its wild..kind of sacrilege..help me please people
If anyone has a 3D metal printer..you could make a killing..if no one can..I've come to the conclusion that I may have to learn how to die cast these items using the old methods..would other methods be cheaper..I'm a groundworker so not a genius..my gearbox has already cost me quid..then hobbywing setup another 110quid..then the repo shell ive scratched badly due to the violence of its nature..its effing costly..😂
In canada we have what is called TTGT. The rules are much simpler, the only modifications allowed is spec tires and a lipo. No shocks , no driveshaft , no turnbuckle etc. Truly box stock. Its an easy way to get into steering.
Sounds great
@warracer03
Re shocks, nothing at all, not even basic entry level plastic oil filled Tamiya CVAs ?
They make you run the pogo sticks yeah ?
@@SANDSCORCHER Yes ! Pogo stick and everything! The ONLY upgrades allowed are bearings and front CV axles on the TT02 since its a design flaw in the kit. I run a TT01 so I only added bearings.
Its really fun to race , the Pogo stick arent bad at all with the stock speed anyway.
@ warracer03
I was thinking to myself that HAD to be total chaos at every race😆👍🏻
About twenty years ago I bought one if the first XB cars. It was a TL-01 Lancer Evo VI and came with the dreaded friction shocks.
Just bashing was appalling and it spent more time with its tires in the air than on the tarmac so I had to get shocks for it immediately.
You guys must have some impeccable running surface there😎👌🏻
@ warracer03
I wasn’t aware there was an issue with the TT02. Is it down to crap dog bones or is it an out-drive problem, or something else ?
I’ve actually got a TT02 and about three TT01s but I’ve never built or run any of them😆🤦🏻♂️
I really should get round to it, but I don’t race and I already have a ton of money invested in my TL01, my TA04 and my unfinished twin motor TA03 which are all basically for late night, drunken winter car park bashing😁👍🏻
Its awesome your getting your son in at such a young age. I got into to R.C. at 13 back in 1992 one of the best times of my life.
Build kits and building memories
I ❤️ Tamiya
Cheers
Thanks for watching
As do we
Can't see why they can't just have a basic setup for all clubs, this would help get more people into the hobby.
Very true
Our track is basic rules. We only race box stock. We can upgrade tires, Diff fluid, and bearing.....but that is. I like it. It makes the racing really fun. (Indoor Carpet)
Sounds good
You can add really thick grease to the friction dampers to slow the rebound and they stick instead of slide
While I understand the rules frustration, someone makes decisions at clubs on rules. Typically these are structured to the owners or a general consensus likings based off a rule structure from a standing general rule set. Most of us "beginners/club racers" don't travel out from our local track. Where I live, tracks are about 1.5hrs away from each other. You have to be very committed to racing to move around for racing. Its the same in the crawling world, guys will take Sorca rules and mod them for their own points series. The key is to stick with it. I know for guys that travel it would be a pain, but options in your hobby is a good thing, better than nothing which quite honestly is a bigger problem with the LHS shutting down all over. (at least in the states). If this is the biggest problem that you face in rc, count your blessings.
We race lots of classes so we have approx 7 tracks we can visit with 45mins all running different disciplines so we cannot complain.. it’s just a shame some classes don’t have a little more consistency
I basically bring this big toolbox with every spare part I have, anywhere the car goes, so I can make it to spec on site
Also handy when you tend to drive beyond your limits, and things start to break
We have all driven beyond the limits at some stage
Running regularly at Stevenage I take the motor out every week to clean and lube it, so fitting a different motor for another club is not really an issue, though if you have to change spur as well that's a bit of of a game on the TT01. The batteries are an issue I accept, NiMh's are lower quality and I would prefer to run LiPo's but since Stevenage is less than 5 minutes from home I can live with NiMh's.
Stevenage is a great club, I wish it was nearer to us👍
I am in the process of creating a Stevenage car as can’t wait to get racing there…
No issue with your rules, it’s just a shame all clubs are different
Mate, you’re absolutely right. It’s really bad.
Having a look at the rules for the Tamiya TCS Series and it’s pretty much black and white what can and can’t be used. This is good because for consistency. However, what makes it hard is that some Tamiya replacement parts and hop-ups are EXTREMELY hard to come by and no one wants to pay scalper prices for a steering post from the TRF417, which the TT-02 uses in the aluminum steering upgrade set.
I think some flexibility in the rules should be explored universally since 1) global stock is running low and 2) some of the needed replacement parts are never going to ever be reproduced.
But this issue does tie into yours as different tracks will be more lenient on which hop-ups can be used and which ones can’t. Again, more consistency would be greatly appreciated so that we as racers can take ONE car (because some of us can only afford ONE car) and run wherever we’d like and just bring the parts suitable for the track on that day.
But yeah mate, not just a local or national thing but rather globally.
Good point about availability and also having to buy an entire sprue for one piece is a pain when getting Tamiya parts
@@PopalongRCI was rather hoping 3D printing would help with the ‘buy a whole spruce tree for one part’ problem…but it doesn’t seem to be the case thus far (maybe cost of printing as well as poor base material are some of the issues putting most folks with 3D printers off from going down this route).
My experience of 3d printed parts are they are not robust enough for rc
You have a point, that’s why down my way all 3 clubs that are local all run the same rules for Tamiya stock class, so we can race at all 3 clubs and not have to make changes to the cars, I think that’s a good think for clubs to communicate and come up with a set of rules that goes for all of them. Only other way to do it would be for the brca to set rules for a Tamiya stock class and that be the standard for all club that race to brca rules ?
We have a gentleman’s agreement with LBMCC AORCC and MKRCCC so we can run at those clubs, which is great as it’s nice to mix it up change scenery.
I purchased a Taimiya Nascar back in the 90's, we had a paved oval track in Perris California. it was lots of fun.
That sound me amazing
Stevenage you can run a core 21 and lipo batteries.
I believe you can now run 21.5 turn brushless
In New Zealand we have the nzrca. We have the same rules from club to club around the country. But there isn't a tt class on that list. Our club runs a tt02 stock class but it isn't a national thing.
We have BRCA that governs most classes and put forward main rules.. but TT01 is a class that lots off clubs use for beginners but no hard and fast rule
Where can I find this list of rules for the "1/10 Touring Car" that you mention regarding weight, height, width and so on? I'm just starting to learn about touring car racing and I am curious about a lot of the things you explained in this video. Specifically where to find specific rule sets.
Build your car to the lowest spec of rules then it's legal everywhere. Things like oil shocks aren't actually necessary despite what your logic tells you. Iconic rounds have been won with low spec cars. Just because it says you can fit X and Y doesnt mean you need to.
That is true… but in a sport where every little helps and others bend the rules it would be nice to have a level playing field.
This is exactly why I stopped RC car racing. If it's not rule bending it's an extra set of tyres or the latest motor or battery. A stock class should mean stock.
Good point. Problem is that everyone wants to be better than the next at all cost..
Don't like when they allow upgrades in "stock" class. They should have 3 classes 1 out of box silvercan nimh (newbies and budget) 2 specific club rules 3 unlimited. Totally agree with newbie friendliness. Many drivers need to master a silver can before spending all the money. You can't buy skill 😂
I want to buy skill … now that is a useful upgrade
Yes I would buy skill if it was possible.. I certainly need it 😊 One of the best thing about your channel for me is that it is about entry kit racing. And how cool it is when all cars are more or less the same.
I hope you have fun with your trucks. Can't wait to see some races.
Looking forward to it
What's your thoughts on the billet aluminum and carbon framed TT01 clones? I have two of the clones, one with a 55T spur 36T pinion and a 4300KV on a 4S lipo. Stupid fast
The other is a 57t spur and a 23T pinion 5700KV motor on 3S. I built it drifting but with rubber tires, I don't do those plastic tires.
We have never run a clone as we race at events that require restrictions to what you are allowed to change.
@@PopalongRC oh interesting but it makes sense to keep the field even. At my work I got some of the guys into racing FPV around the shop. Right now there's 5 of us but we have more people wanting to get into it. It's stupid fun, feel like a video game but real haha. I have a few videos on my channel but I haven't uploaded any of the good ones yet.
They can set it up by bodies. Like the tamiya trucks run a set of rules. The audi runs a set of rules. Ect
That is possible
I have a mitsubishi Evo kit that I think I'm going to build as a Rally-ish setup...
Will definitely do a couple mods to suspension, steering, and do oil shocks... as well as some drivetrain mods and 13.5t brushless setup.
Sound good
We have seen these cars run well as rally set ups… good luck
do they not have a league/championship that runs over several veneues or each venue runs its own?
Iconic cup runs at several venues but all other clubs run their own rules … at Popalong gp we ran a hybrid to get as many people involved me as possible ..
Yeah I agree. Can’t see why every club wouldn’t use the core21 motor, it’s better than the Tamiya motors and much cheaper. Also lipo’s are so much better too.
It makes sense to us … see you trackside soon buddy
I think so too😂. Luckily for me Aylesbury, Leighton Buzzard and Milton Keynes all have the same rules and are pretty relaxed even if you turned up with a car that’s not quite to spec. Hopefully will see you at the track again soon, interested to see the TC again
Completely agree with you there. Here's my story about just wanting to drive on a track. I got in contact with a local buggy club and asked if I could come and have a go on their track, they said yes and I said that I had a traxxas slash. They said big no-no because it's 1/10th and they run 1/8th. I stayed polite and said that the slash is sized more towards 1/8th and they said that it's not the same and that it would be a hinderence to other drivers because it's not fast enough. Afterwards they said they have rules and if they start letting anyone join it will be degrading the club etiquette. I've decided to stay in the park and do my own thing.
Not defending them but they are right A Traxxas Slash is a 1/10 sct, tad smaller than a 1/8 buggy.
Guessing if they run a Short Course Truck series you would have been allowed to take part if its like a fun day sort of thing.
I own 2 Traxxas Slashes (RWD) and understand where you're comming from but also understand the club rules are probaby in place not because of one guy lording it over others but because most at the club agreed the rules of what can and cant be run. Is it a pain - up,but it is what it is sadly. I say this as I too wanted to run mine at a club track but no one near me runs sct's - I have to trek to another part of the country to be able to take part lol
That is a real shame and clubs need to make the hobby accessible not elitist… I understand why they have rules but I think factoring in a clas to invite beginners into the hobby is essential
@@PopalongRC 100% agree about clubs having a class to attract beginners …kind of “run what you’ve brung” 👍
Isn't it a problem with every other chassis too? What's the point i'm missing?
More so as there are not universal rules as a guide
GT12 have national rules most clubs follow and with TC it is the same … with TT01e there is the addition of hop up restrictions which vary club to club…
Does the track type influence this E.g. bigger track motor/battery changes for most fun (vs budget), smaller track handling mods = more fun (same budget different mods)?
Is the shear flexibility of the TT-chassis causing this issue but also what existing club members want to run?
For us there is the iconic cup which runs at 5-6 big outdoor tracks over the summer and for this you can run a TT01 or TT01e and that is it.
There are limited hop ups which you can see in our tt01 build video.
Motor is fixed and tyres are free to choose.
Then west London have a race series with slightly different spec but they allow iconic cup cars to compete.
These tracks are massive so we chose to stick with Torque tuned motors for indoor clubs. However the motors were not lasting and we introduced the core 21 as an cheaper cooler and more durable motor. Very similar speed but quicker towards end of race as the torque tune were overheating.
With regards spec we run almost identical rules as iconic so ther is an element of one car fits all.
That being said if you watch our vid on car set up for indoor cars vs outdoor you will see all the changes that are made within the rules.
I found this when I first started.
Everyone said go tamiya tourers as its a good beginners car which is cheap, which in a way it is. But like you say there was so many variations in what upgrades you can do plus by the time you brought a few up grades to make the car better or simply work like the tt02 you might as well brought a tourer type carbon/alloy rolling chassis that doesn't need modifications.
I personally think the best and cheapest beginners car would be the tamiya m07, good beginners car with a silver can fitted. Plus it's kind of race ready that can later be fitted with a brushless combo setup for some faster racing with out really needing to modify unless you want to.
the M07 is a great chassis . we have a friend of the channel who is putting a 21 turn brushless set up in it to run at the MTC frontie nationals this year
@@PopalongRC sounds interesting would like to see how it compares.
There is a few tourer fronties at my locol club at Sidcup racing but I think they are the standard size not the mini.
I’m sure we will be featuring it on the channel
Spot on i don’t agree with allowing trf type socks on any of the tamiya classes. If you go that route you may as well just run a modern touring car which is what you guys
Fair point
Stumbled upon your video and found the rules hilarious. I sometimes wonder if it's purely the older generation RC guys setting these rules being so hell bett that they forget about growing the community
21.5t TC is popular in Australia and I'm glad is that you set it on blinky and run at 7.4v you're all good
We have suggested that would make a good class but again another variation
Spec Slash has box stock rules but they come rtr with a bat and charger 🤔
Would love to run slash race … nowhere runs them round here
Totally agree, I’m toying with getting into it but think I’ll go touring car rather than TT01.
Don’t be put off TT01 is an amazing class for racing just speak to the local club to make sure you are running the right car for the track …
@@PopalongRC cant stress how important this is
It’s funny how the term stock seems to no longer be something along the lines of ‘straight out the box’ as it were. I can see why this would seem a tad off putting for anyone thinking of getting into the hobby.
What is stock if it’s not stock
I'm trying to do TT-01 racing indoor but I'm finding the same problem each club has different rules. That's just going to limit me attending 1 club
This is exactly it.. Popalong has really enjoyed popping along to different clubs and having a go.
Excuse me if I offend the Mighty T, but why can't we use other makes in these series? I mostly run 1/10 RallyX on a mostly dirt track, but am looking at M class racing over the winter, and everyone seems to think that it's cheaper and fairer to run TT02 or M07. I prefer my HPI RS4 sport3, which came as a rolling chassis with full metal drivetrain and bearings throughout. A mate drives the Maverick Strada TC and the Absima is just as good and all are probably cheaper than a TT02 once you've added all the Hop Up parts. None of them are competition touring cars, but they are great for the beginner.
We have explored running a tub chassis class which would open up other options … there would need to be at least one constant I guess in ordered to make it a level playing field
@@PopalongRC yeah, we run torque tuned motor, so its all about the driver, but it's very easy for new drivers to get involved as there are so many chassis to choose from.
My son has been running the FTX Banzai for over a year and it has been the perfect starter car for him …
Noob: What do I need to start racing?
Hobby shop: about 6 cars, both lipo and nimh’s, multi chemistry charger, rx for each, transponder for each track if different, computer radio, hop up parts for each car, tires, additive, …… oh your on a budget??!!! Have you seen the skateboards in aisle 3?
Hahahaha
for me what defines the TT01 and TT02 class is bown stock low spec only allowable stuff would be oil shocks, all around bearings, but everything else like the motor be stock silvercan tamiya
You make some very good points, I like oil filed shocks but others say no to shocks. As this is a performance improver.
I like aluminium drive shaft for durability but some say stay with plastic stock
I like core 21 or torque as an option as torque tuned motors Ive run only lasted about 4 race meets where as core lasts double that and is cheaper so keeps price down.
I’m sure I could make a case for all rules and see why they do it but it would be nice if there was a standard set
Yes I’ve been asking this question. Everywhere you go it’s different rules
It seems crazy… but everyone has their ideas of what is best .
Soo I got a question for anyone who might see this, im running a tt01e (this is a personal build not for racing) and I put in a 150a spektrum esc, with the reedy 3300kv brushless, it has semi locked diffs(i used a plyable silicone ear plug for rear and a thick grease for the front)oil filled shocks and aluminum drive shafts and drive line, and aluminum tire hubs (to help balance the wheels) however I can't find any good tires and im unsure of the spec size for a set of foams on this car, can anyone guide me to the right spot
Depends what you are planning to do with it. Race tyres are great but they don’t last long bashing or running on the streets ..
@@PopalongRC It's built for speed and solely that, I've tried a couple different wheels and street tires it hoons up and just slides excessively, so I tried a softer road rubber and they Ballon up and just body slams the cars, I ordered foam tires and ended up getting a 1/5 size tires, thankfully I could fit them on my sc10, but I can't seem to locate specs for tires I need
Hi Karl, just found this video, but totally agree! I believe in a Tamiya Stock class, for all the reasons you mention, proper entry level! -I'd love that to be a starting point for my boy too...
-I'm local to one of the clubs you've mentioned and find the rules problematic, -turned out cheaper to buy a 2nd hand pro touring car than buy the upgrades needed to compete in Tamiya Stock!
Frustrated :(
You can run them as stock and slowly add to them as you improve … still a great beginner class
100% agree . There needs to be Local club series spec set of guidelines that all clubs can follow. These can be set up in AB &c classes According to the competition level. This way theoretically you could set your car up for a C series class and be able to race it at all local clubs that way.The problem is getting local clubs to follow these guidelines.... As much as we try to make the experience welcoming and warming to new racers most clubs are very clicky and localized in who they allow to be a part of that click.
Thanks for commenting .. some good points made .. it’s a tricky one
Used to race the Original tt01 in the Tamiya eurocup. It was brilliant until the hobby company stuck their oar in and spoiled it. Martin reader and Stephen fabrey ran it. Only mods allowed were wheel hex’s, propshaft, turnbuckles, bearings and sport tuned motor.
That was about 20 years ago, I tried to convince local clubs to take up the class but they all turned their noses up at the idea. They thought it was too amateurish lol. These toy car racers that think they are professional…
Now a local off-road club has started
Up an indoor series running tt02 so I’m getting back into Tamiya spec racing and it like the good old days :)
We absolutely love our Tamiya racing and have been doing lots of Tt01 racing
Plenty more planned for the channel
Completely agree
Cheers Tom
What Subaru body are u running?
The one that comes with the TT01e kit
So you don't have a problem with the TT-01 chassis but a problem with the racing series and the different classes.
Problem is I can’t just turn up and run it as it is anywhere … love the Tt01 for close racing
How often do people switch clubs though? It’s not unusual that you would need a spec car per series and they may clash with club rules. Understand the frustration though. Having a stock class where all hop ups are allowed is hilarious and ridiculous.
Unfortunately its all a nightmare ...varies across all clubs 🤷♂️
True that
Yeah, its a problem with TT01 classes, as it should probably be more stock, than people allow them to be, because then you run into exactly this issue. Personally I think the beginner class should be out of the box with ball bearings added, the TT01 is decent enoush as is. If you want more capable cars, move to TC class. Also, allowing a TT02SR, which is usually banned from any stock class, to race with TT-01 shows a sever lack of understanding about what the TT02SR is. The big plus with TT01 is that its still a pretty cheap and cheerful RC, but might be best to race it at your local areas and set it up for that. Take the TC to other events.
I know why the clubs change the rule to suit but I agree that in the right hands the TT01 is a great car and we have a video running a stock out the box TT02 on the channel.
@@PopalongRC Well each area has preferences, and even the people participating might have different interests. You often hear, in my local area, people wanting to put oilshocks into their trucks for example. But for a beginner class, adding oilshocks, will ONLY make the faster people faster, as they actually know what they are doing with shock oils and different springs. Same with other adjustable upgrades to a stock car. Which is exactly what should be discussed in a basic class like a TT-01. IS there much point putting lots of adjustable hopups on it, when you're basically turning the class into a bad TC class, when there already is a TC class anyway, where you can tinker with the settings of the car ad infinitum. The best part about un-adjustable stock classes, is that its the same for everyone. Obviously if you have a class with TT-01s with all the aluminium hop-ups, and even allow TT-02SRs, which are basicly capable TCs, the class will be quite pointless, as you cant really just buy a TT01 and race in it. But it looks like unifying these starter classes, would require a lot of top down work from whatever national or regional RC class governing bodies, that probably isnt gonna happen, so you're stuck with a mess of classes under the same name, but not overall rules.
I really like the TT01. I love the Truck class, exactly because over here theres basicly no adjustable stuff on it, keeps it all very simple. Just slap in your battery and race, and replace tires when they wear out. I think one of the biggest problems in RC racing hobby in general is that there are so many classes, that it very easily divided a quite large participant group into small classes, and then it kills the intrests in the hobby, as every random class has like less than 10 participants. Its a bit like pvp computer games, if there's too many game modes, theres the danger of not having enough participants per game mode, and your game which has nice amounts of gamers overall, dies from having too few gamers per game mode. :P
isnt it the job of the federations to ensure rules consistency at a national level?
Carl, I couldn’t agree more. For me the issue is in a clubs ability to write their own rules, and I guess they are entitled to but it does create this challenge. Maybe this is something that should be looked at by the BRCA. If they published ‘club’ rules we would then have a set of common rules that clubs can adopt, making it possible to run a chassis at multiple clubs? Buster.
As this stage to implore a generic set of rules would alienate so many clubs and drivers … I plan to get a car suitable for Stevenage … might just build one out the box spec …
Why isn't the class standardised by brca ? I can't believe some places run nimhs lol I mean I can understand for a laugh doing whacky things but not permanently for a race series
Thatk is the most inconvenient thing having to double up on batteries
Spot on! I don't agree with allowing TRF type shocks on any of the Tamiya classes. If you go that route you may as well just run a modern touring car which is what you guys are now doing. The FTX Banzai would make a much better class as the car itself needs zero upgrades. We attempted to get a class going at my local club and it was doing quite well but then pandemic hit and now we just have a rookie class. Xpress have just announced a sport version of their new prop shaft car in and it's only about £170 RRP
The Banzai shocks are not too dissimilar to the yeah racing shocks that are run on many tamiyas
I just want more people joining the hobby and enjoying the hobby and sometimes we as a community don’t make it easy enough for everyone
@@PopalongRC exactly the same as myself and my local club, I believe the realistic bodies is one of the best ways to get new people into onroad racing which is why FWD is taking off.
I really enjoy running the fronties and they do look great
@@PopalongRC simple rules as well and zero changes for national series for 2023
It seems its the biggest issue for the touring cars where its tamiya cars, luckly im only looking at the iconic races next year. So the cars good to go minus its bodyshell. I dont think i have room for 2/3 touring chassis 😂
I like the simplicity of buggy race in terms of rules for cars ..
@@PopalongRC yeah, i only race vintage buggys, 10.5 motor limit is the norm, and only big events have rules on mods. Clubs its pretty much do as you please 😎
Sound like fun
@@PopalongRC lots of fun, but most are very gentlemanly, some hard to find parts you dont want to break.
But im looking forward to april and the 1st iconic round 😎
Because I'm thinking about an European racing truck your video was very value for me, althought I don' want to take part in competitions😉
Exact rules would be better depending on the class not on the track or club.
Good luck with the trucks we have 2 clubs locally running trucks and rules for truck seem to be more standardised
Brilliant video mate love it 😀👍👏
Cheers Mogg
Honestly, I think you're making a mountain out of a molehill. Spec classes like this are meant to be for new and casual racers, people who aren't really going to be traveling from track to track to run. As such, the variance in rulesets wouldn't be an issue. It's only really an issue for people who go to multiple clubs.
Personally I'd actually have two different spec classes for the TT02 (more specifically the TT02B since my racing interest is predominantly off-road) if I was running a track - Box-stock and Chassis-spec.
Box stock would be _the_ stock gear - stock motor and ESC, budget-limited servo (with GoBilda banned by name because they have really silly robotics servos for super-low prices), with the only allowances being open tire, open servo saver/horn and a LiPo, and with the "upgraded" TT02BR and TT02B MS kits being banned. Even bodies would be restricted - you'd HAVE to run either a Dual Ridge, Plasma Edge II or Neo Scorcher with the wing it came with, no aftermarket bodies or wings allowed.
Chassis-spec would be 21.5t 2S Blinky with voltage check (maximum 4v per cell or you don't race - this is to keep people from intentionally overcharging their batteries for extra power), with all hop-ups included in the TT02BR and TT02B MS kits or equivalent parts allowed, plus aluminum knuckles and front uprights. No body or wing restrictions, open tire.
Of course, this will all be on _proper_ dirt, not clay or carpet, as I find lower-traction surfaces to be a "great equalizer" of sorts where car control matters more than pushing the vehicle's limits.
Sounds like a solid set of rules
It can be very frustrating going from club to club, as you say they do have different rules. I run at Stevenage, but I race in the truck class with a TT01e and I'm now running the Team Powers FFV3M FWD car in Touring car, love racing them both. Personally I'd like to see the Core RC 21t motor used for 'stock' rather than the Tamiya Sport or Torque tuned, the Core motor is a lot cheaper and generally easier to get hold of. Also, I don't like the 'Tamiya only hop ups' rules that some places run, if they wat to keep it cost effective that's not the way to go, a lot of the Tamiya hop-ups are way too expensive. Great video, look forward to seeing you at Stevenage soon mate👍
Look forward to catching up soon Barry and I will come and see the FFV3M too
i think keep them box stock just add bearings too keep a level playing fiuld and a cheap entry for new players in rc or even experianced guys too really learn race craft/corner speed /driving in traffic and good pack racing skills and its good for club too have new members that will stick around with a chance at running with every other car ,, when we start adding mods the top guys allways run up front and the new guys only stay for a few months at best befor leaving with rising cost having too buy this and that or just getting lapped every race, best keep it a entry level good tight racing class and once funds or love for racing grows with these members then they can step up a class and or leave with out high entry level costs
Perfectly put … well said
Always frustrating when what is essentially the same class has these small differences in their rules. Defeats the object of it being a cost effective entry level class when there is the need to have 3 or 4 different chassis' to suit the different events you want to take part in.
Lack of clarity in rules and politics between different factions is sadly what cost MTC having the chance to be the perfect club level class. I'm still hopeful this will turn around for MTC but I don't think it'll become what it should have, and the basic stock Tamiya TT class could also suffer the same way if people get frustrated having to make changes to attend each club or series they want to run in.
Cheers Adam, thanks for getting involved, Looking forward to popping along to race with you soon … not sure what car to bring …
What options are there at Kettering ?
@@PopalongRC Our biggest class is MTC, we have a fairly typical small'ish indoor club track and the smaller size of the MTC's suit it perfectly. But we also run TC so there is the option of running the new cars you guys have too. Best thing to do is keep an eye on our Facebook group as i post the overall results up every week so you'll be able to gauge the numbers attending in each class. Feel free to drop me a PM anytime if you need any more info.
Cheers Adam
See you soon
Your issue is a global one. It is even a problem in touring car to a certain extent. Either way, love your vids. Curious if you have a part number for that awesome yellow Subaru body. Cheers.
47372
Not a problem with the chassis, more a club problem.
Hi, you went 4 minutes and no said the problem with the rc car, I'm sorry you're confused the rules of the rc tracks is what you think make the rc car a problem, remember rc problems are good they will make you a more smart, but practice will make you a better rc driver, Thanks for the video...
Cheers Alvaro thanks for watching
the brca and all the clubs are responsible , the tt01 has been around for almost 20 years !, the brca is a pretty useless organisation if clubs arent working to homologation rules and clubs arent pressuring the brca to build a race classification structure to bring in new drivers to the hobby . EVERYONE i have known who gets into the hobby wants the same thing , low cost but still quick class of racing ,to get access to entry level and true stock racing . that goes for on or off road ,, after 40 years in the hobby i discovered the brca is not and never has provided this essential first control class . trf 420 next to box stock tt01 in a race ??,, gt12 could have been good but like most classes has become a race to see who has the biggest wallet .
its a sad state of affairs when compared to other nations rc car racing scene .😘
Some interesting points made and it is frustrating for sure.. I don’t think anyone is at fault as clubs try to accommodate the regulars but it would make sense to run a generic set of rules as a stock class
100% agree. Personally, I'm amazed & jealous you have 5? local tracks/clubs to race in. Usually don't local club members set the class rules by vote? I used to run USA Tamiya- TCS classes each year seriously & stock & modified locally @ a local outdoor track. Last 14 years no dedicated track within 150KM so gave up + local R/C car clubs disbanded & stores moved/shut down. Now over 300KM to nearest TCS race. imho Doesn't every mildly serious hobby racer eventually collect 4+ cars/kits? Run 2-3 different cars/setups in a race weekend? Granted 4+ just TT01/2 IS a bit excessive/ridiculous/ expensive. Personally anyplace that still requires silver can or Tamiya tuned motors would be off my list. Brushed sucks & I can remember a handful of spec class brushed can "cheat/tuning" tricks still. There are always strong & weak brushed motors, + they wear out. Always.
Looking forward to your Schumacher? vids. I'm looking @ 10th scale modified class competitive on road kits too.
Radio wise, I'm interested in opinions/differences between Sanwa vs. Futaba vs. Spektrum as I plan to get back into 2wd/4wd buggy. Prev I've always run Futaba but starting over looking for changes. & plan to travel to race seriously after a lot of practice. Kids grow up. Here we get HW thru Tower Hobbies apparently now.
My then 7-14 yo Son had the most fun turn marshalling & was a crowd favorite & immediately accepted @ every race or event. He loved building & tuning, didn't enjoy the responsibility of driving. Great F&S memories though. 😊😓. Enjoy it 👍
BTW a good simulator program you can use w/your Tx is a great in between club nights practice tool. Used 1 for r/c planes & helicopters too.
Great comment
So much in there
I’m will you when it comes to brushed reliability and consistency.
Guess having so many clubs to visit is a blessing and we should not grumble.
We plan another radio gear video and also hoping to add a Schumacher to the collection soon so watch this space.
And this is why I cant be bothered with the clubs. If racing has so many different rules per club - its just too much hassle. Scrutinising a toy before and after every race for something that is supposed to be fun. The improvements and hop ups are part of trying to be number one on the track surely.
Anyway who cares. I wont bother with clubs after seeing this video. Just keep it amongst mates and send it.
As much as it is frustrating when not all clubs run the same rules … there is nothing quite like close rc car racing
LMAO try auto racing brother. I hear your gripes but being an RC guy also, I try not to get my feathers ruffled getting RC hop up and doing the swaps. Can build numerous TT01 cars for the price of the carbs on my 514 BBF and they take up about the same space lol. It's just a perspective to consider not talking $hit. Great points in this video and you got a subscribe from this Ol cowboy.
It not a big problem just the biggest one we have with TT01E racing … I get that it is very different to full scale racing .. thanks for watching
So… in truth it has nothing to do with TT-01 or TT-02. The same difficulties arise with TRAXXAS Slash racing, or any other brand/model entry level racing. Getting clubs to agree a definition of “stock” is the problem.
thats why i dont go to events , i want to run my car how i like :/
FairPlay 👍
Wow.!
Cheers Alan
💥
🤘🍻🙂
Cheers Forrest
Lmao the biggest problem is it’s not intended for racing. Buy a real chassis and then build it. The TT01/02 is good as a chassis to hold a body for display and nothing else.
Check out our series on ‘real chassis’ touring cars. Some of our best and closest racing has been with the TT01.
Sinceramente, esto es un juguete...va muy bien pero es un juguete.
Para q mejoras ni opciones? Para eso compro un touring de verdad.
Gotta love google translate
comparado con un turismo parece un juguete pero es bueno para las carreras...
Ive got two of these..one is 💯 original..the other has 100mm oil filled shocks..ballraced throughout..planetary diff..cnc motor mounts etc..ive introduced it to a hobbywing ezrun max 10..diffs good but it shredded old tech cogs..bugger..however if you give it full throttle it wheelspins at roughly 25mph and tries to backflip at the same time..3s is brutal..and effing quick..does anybody manufacture the said cogs to maintain said power..its wild..kind of sacrilege..help me please people
If anyone has a 3D metal printer..you could make a killing..if no one can..I've come to the conclusion that I may have to learn how to die cast these items using the old methods..would other methods be cheaper..I'm a groundworker so not a genius..my gearbox has already cost me quid..then hobbywing setup another 110quid..then the repo shell ive scratched badly due to the violence of its nature..its effing costly..😂
Don’t know if anything sorry bud