I tell you a rule that I used to bend, and I would encourage anyone racing on a budget to do too, fit a hotter motor than is allowed, label it up as a legal motor, and then just turn down the duel rates on your radio to match the fastest cars on the track. Then you get to go the same speed as those who spend loads, but on a budget! No need to fit new bearings, motors, lipos etc every week!! BOOM!! I had a cheap trackstar motor (13.5t labeld up as a 17.5t) , old lipos, old bearings, old car, no maintenance and had a car just as quick as the serious boys who spend all their time and money on their cars!! haha
If you’re running mabuchi. There’s many tricks to get the motor to optimal speed. But unfortunately there’s ways to demagnetize the motor. Advance the timing and remagnetize it. And it’s substantially faster. In California TCS races the only way Tamiya could combat this problem was to hand out motors in the morning and take them back at night
It's nice to see (it seems like) a few more videos going up each week. I know it's hard work running a RUclips channel, working a normal job, having a family life. You guys are brilliant. There may be RC channels with more subscribers but I find yours hands down the best to watch, and the funniest. These 'desk chats' are brilliant. Keep at it, the subscribers should continue to eke up over time 😊
Hi guys , I’ve come across your uploads recently. My name is Mark Williams and used to race in the Tamiya Eurocup which used to be supported by the UK distributer . The Iconic cup is a nod to the Eurocup . Seeing you at Broxstowe and west London brings back great memories & I know Steve Fabrey and Martin Reeder extremely well . I’m currently watching this video on making the car go faster , the power cap yes 👍🏻 but the ceramic bearings although may help the best thing you can do to the Bearings is de-shield them to expose the balls , flush them out with brake cleaner and the use a very light good oil 👍🏻 . I was racing in Holland as one of the top 2 who represented the UK that year and I was floundering in the B final as I just didn’t have the pace . I stripped the car that night and did the bearings and qualified about 7th in A . It makes a massive difference. Clean the bearings out after every meeting though as obviously they are exposed . Good luck with the racing 👍🏻 seeing the iconic cup gives me the itch to come back , I may well contact Mr Reeder . I went on to represent the UK in Japan with a Tamiya factory tour . I finished 6th overall in the A final with a TRF 415 MSX which I still have with the body shell as it is signed by Mr Tamiya himself. I may well popalong soon 👍🏻 mark
On some other you tube channel some guy said something that made a little sense …..ceramic bearings actually work more noticeable on a slower car . Also he took the new ones apart ,cleaned and re-lubed them . Worked so much better . I gotta try it myself , but quite expensive .
The cap on the battery side is to prevent the esc from blowing up due to ripple voltage. The power held inside these capacitors is tiny and won't make a difference in performance. It doesn't add 'punch'. It is a good idea to have them but there's this myth in the RC community that the capacitor somehow stores enough power to improve motor performance. It won't. All it does is smooth out voltage dips that last milliseconds. Hope this helps guys.
Come on audience, 370 more subs. Get Auntie Maud, Grandma, anyone you know to ding Mark & Carl's bell. Let's get these two charming, decent and totally nuts guys to 10k by Christmas.
Dont forget to add AW grease to the front diff to help cornering. As i over heard in Iconic Cup this year….add TT02 diff internals as they are lighter than TT01. No one will check lol. Is what it is though. Do not forget tyres. At iconic i was told to win Either Stock or Super stock you need to spend £100 a meeting on tyres.
My TT01 that I bought second hand and chucked my servo in was second in the A in super stock until the last lap and finished third ✌🏻 Between me or more likely another guy from our club we want a win next year with a TT01.
A certain bender also told me they run with dry bearings. Shield off, clean all grease out with brake cleaner and then seal back up again. As a longborder (in addition to RC) I can confirm that dry clean bearings run Uber fast, but last a lot less longer.
@@PopalongRCare u required to run that battery? Seems a shorty pack with less mah would allow better balance and less weight, dry bearings with just a drop of oil is the fast setup. You can solder the cap pack right onto your connector to clean up the install. With this knowledge and your skills you will now be a solid contender for the win.....in the d main 😂 sorry I couldn't help myself
Man I love how this shows how you can get suckered into buying all the expensive stuff in hopes of getting faster but it's not even mentioning the most important bit which is pretty much free: motor break-in. Those silver cans benefit a ton from break-in, if you just run them out of the bag you'll burn up the comm and have a turd. Break them in correctly first, add a drop of oil on the bushings after every few runs and run as little brake as possible (this burns up the comm too) and you'll notice way more of a difference than you'll get from ceramic bearings or a big capacitor (especially when you can build the same part yourself for like 50 pence in components, lmao).
Upgraded to the capacitors to stop the HW1060 esc going into safe mode…couple of years back, many of us at WLRC had the issue where suddenly there’d be a sudden drop of power. Motor was hot but nothing too worse than usual, batteries still had charge - turned out the esc had some sort of fail safe that kicked in - adding the capacitors helps stop this, since then no issues. Initially some thought it was a bad batch of ESCs but most of us haven’t taken that chance so whenever we get a new HW esc, on goes the capacitors lol….as for those ceramic bearings….I was going to do that …..right up until I saw the cost 😂😂😂….I like to be able to compete /win races…but not that much 😂😂 I’m in the “ it’s the taking part…” part of the venn diagram 😂 PS another ‘bend’ of the rules one of the ex TC guys once told me was, though some tracks don’t allow tyre additives, there’s nothing to stop you using it on tyres when not racing - e.g when in storage during the off season / in between race weekends.
Also, I plan on running my same car untouched from October CWIC, so a yardstick for comparison. Not racing on the 10th sadly, but racing again in January.
That capacity might help a very little at a full stop. Doesn’t do much at all. Get a good set up and focus on corner speed. Then you’ll go faster. Why not just get the yeah racing motor mount. Much better solution for gearing. That body looks crappy. What options do you have?
Not surprised to hear the mondeo is the shell to have. It was developed to be aerodynamic in a bid to aid fuel consumption. However the ceramic bearings are a total waste of money. The purpose of a ceramic bearing is to resist heat and I doubt these things are that fast. Just clean out the old grease and then run light oil instead.
to increase the power, you have to charge your lipo with the max allowed charging rating e.g 12A, (to reduce the inner resistance-( Ri) of the lipo tue higher temp inside the lipo) -and use a charger, which has a high value of balance current e.g. --junsi X6
At some of the outdoor races I’ve done in the stock class there are always some cars that are obviously a lot faster in a straight line than others. I think maybe the TT02 gearing is used but also have heard of people modifying the core motor timing which is cheating. I’m not the best driver so know I’ll never win so just run my car stock for fun.
Great video guys! ;) I have one question: How does the Hobbywing 1080 ESC performs on Tamiya TT platforms? Hobbywing says this ESC is designed for 1/10 crawlers. I'm curious about this.
The video cutting to b-roll vision of cars racing during the "knob twisting" segment. *Straight faces sold separately*. What was the purpose of switching back to old speedies lads? Is there some kind of edge to swapping back. And I think the lighter diff, is only for a certain grip level or track. The Tamiya F104s have a similar thing with either a metal or carbon fibre rear axle. Good job, this video was a real crowd pleaser.
You didn’t tell us what the Aw grease was for did you? . I presume it was for inside the gear diff? . Also the haircut is looking fresh on the guy with the beard. I still want to shave that beard off every time I see it though lol . Ps ditch that savox servo or get a power cap for the receiver . Don’t know if you have seen them but I use the yeah racing ultimate power cap . It holds so much current I can still use the steering for a while after the battery is unplugged. Great for stock racing.
I still run a vintage Novak dually (no limit) in my hpi sprint, I can tell the difference in power between it and a hw 1060. But £55 for ceramic bearings is a bit too much wonga for bearings my liking lol. Also when I got rid of my old style TV some years ago I took all the capacitors out😁 so I run a large single cap as well 👍👍
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I tell you a rule that I used to bend, and I would encourage anyone racing on a budget to do too, fit a hotter motor than is allowed, label it up as a legal motor, and then just turn down the duel rates on your radio to match the fastest cars on the track. Then you get to go the same speed as those who spend loads, but on a budget! No need to fit new bearings, motors, lipos etc every week!! BOOM!! I had a cheap trackstar motor (13.5t labeld up as a 17.5t) , old lipos, old bearings, old car, no maintenance and had a car just as quick as the serious boys who spend all their time and money on their cars!! haha
Hahahaha Kev the RUclips king ……… of bending
a massive bender !
That's not bending the rules though, that's breaking them. I saw a guy get banned from our club for doing just that.
Has your account been hacked !? Between this post and the static video you uploaded I’m
Getting worried about you. 😮
Not recommended, you get caught and you’re in trouble 🤷🏻♂️
If you’re running mabuchi. There’s many tricks to get the motor to optimal speed. But unfortunately there’s ways to demagnetize the motor. Advance the timing and remagnetize it. And it’s substantially faster. In California TCS races the only way Tamiya could combat this problem was to hand out motors in the morning and take them back at night
It's nice to see (it seems like) a few more videos going up each week. I know it's hard work running a RUclips channel, working a normal job, having a family life. You guys are brilliant. There may be RC channels with more subscribers but I find yours hands down the best to watch, and the funniest. These 'desk chats' are brilliant. Keep at it, the subscribers should continue to eke up over time 😊
Really appreciate the kind words …
Hi guys , I’ve come across your uploads recently. My name is Mark Williams and used to race in the Tamiya Eurocup which used to be supported by the UK distributer . The Iconic cup is a nod to the Eurocup . Seeing you at Broxstowe and west London brings back great memories & I know Steve Fabrey and Martin Reeder extremely well . I’m currently watching this video on making the car go faster , the power cap yes 👍🏻 but the ceramic bearings although may help the best thing you can do to the Bearings is de-shield them to expose the balls , flush them out with brake cleaner and the use a very light good oil 👍🏻 . I was racing in Holland as one of the top 2 who represented the UK that year and I was floundering in the B final as I just didn’t have the pace . I stripped the car that night and did the bearings and qualified about 7th in A . It makes a massive difference. Clean the bearings out after every meeting though as obviously they are exposed . Good luck with the racing 👍🏻 seeing the iconic cup gives me the itch to come back , I may well contact Mr Reeder . I went on to represent the UK in Japan with a Tamiya factory tour . I finished 6th overall in the A final with a TRF 415 MSX which I still have with the body shell as it is signed by Mr Tamiya himself. I may well popalong soon 👍🏻 mark
Wow this sounds amazing and we will certainly be exploring the bearing mod
120 for the car and then spend twice that to "upgrade"😂
That blue bling is really heroin.
Your not wrong
On some other you tube channel some guy said something that made a little sense …..ceramic bearings actually work more noticeable on a slower car . Also he took the new ones apart ,cleaned and re-lubed them . Worked so much better .
I gotta try it myself , but quite expensive .
Ooooooo your going to upset the benders ! . . . the benders secrets are out the bag !
Best the Iconic cup scrutineers check for the TT02 diffs!
Hahahaha
@@PopalongRC titainuim screw set next then Mark 😁
The bearings are a MUST for stock racing. Titanium screws, turn buckles, and ball studs are the next thing you need.
Cheers jason
@@PopalongRC love the videos and hope to see you all bending more and more!
The cap on the battery side is to prevent the esc from blowing up due to ripple voltage. The power held inside these capacitors is tiny and won't make a difference in performance. It doesn't add 'punch'. It is a good idea to have them but there's this myth in the RC community that the capacitor somehow stores enough power to improve motor performance. It won't. All it does is smooth out voltage dips that last milliseconds. Hope this helps guys.
There are many myths in RC, could well be the old placebo effect, worth a try👍 thanks for watching
Come on audience, 370 more subs. Get Auntie Maud, Grandma, anyone you know to ding Mark & Carl's bell. Let's get these two charming, decent and totally nuts guys to 10k by Christmas.
now you are talking we set ourselves the goal of 10k by xmas and I think we will fall short
Dont forget to add AW grease to the front diff to help cornering.
As i over heard in Iconic Cup this year….add TT02 diff internals as they are lighter than TT01. No one will check lol. Is what it is though.
Do not forget tyres. At iconic i was told to win Either Stock or Super stock you need to spend £100 a meeting on tyres.
Great video and really well put on what’s needed. Shame you’re not at the iconic event this weekend, managed to get a space in the 17.5 TC class
Really great track last time out … good luck
I’m looking forward to seeing the mondeo race that’s one of my favourite touring cars
Should be interesting
Like you're style, just shows you what can be achieved with a bit of know-how.
cheers buddy
My TT01 that I bought second hand and chucked my servo in was second in the A in super stock until the last lap and finished third ✌🏻
Between me or more likely another guy from our club we want a win next year with a TT01.
Good luck with that …. Would be good to see
Karl, being a Sandbagger has its plus points 🏆
never a sand bagger just not vey good... hahaha
@@PopalongRC 😂😂 that’s what all the trophy hunters say…. 😎🏆
A certain bender also told me they run with dry bearings. Shield off, clean all grease out with brake cleaner and then seal back up again. As a longborder (in addition to RC) I can confirm that dry clean bearings run Uber fast, but last a lot less longer.
We have heard that also
@@PopalongRCare u required to run that battery? Seems a shorty pack with less mah would allow better balance and less weight, dry bearings with just a drop of oil is the fast setup. You can solder the cap pack right onto your connector to clean up the install. With this knowledge and your skills you will now be a solid contender for the win.....in the d main 😂 sorry I couldn't help myself
@sauliluolajan-mikkola620 you make a good point
If you clean the grease out of a bearing and then oil it with light oil like 3in1 or similar it works well and don't overheat so much.
I found this really interesting, and a great topic, keep your ears peeled every time you go. As for me, I know nothing 👌🏻
hahahaha
Man I love how this shows how you can get suckered into buying all the expensive stuff in hopes of getting faster but it's not even mentioning the most important bit which is pretty much free:
motor break-in. Those silver cans benefit a ton from break-in, if you just run them out of the bag you'll burn up the comm and have a turd. Break them in correctly first, add a drop of oil on the bushings after every few runs and run as little brake as possible (this burns up the comm too) and you'll notice way more of a difference than you'll get from ceramic bearings or a big capacitor (especially when you can build the same part yourself for like 50 pence in components, lmao).
The lengths that some people go to
Upgraded to the capacitors to stop the HW1060 esc going into safe mode…couple of years back, many of us at WLRC had the issue where suddenly there’d be a sudden drop of power. Motor was hot but nothing too worse than usual, batteries still had charge - turned out the esc had some sort of fail safe that kicked in - adding the capacitors helps stop this, since then no issues. Initially some thought it was a bad batch of ESCs but most of us haven’t taken that chance so whenever we get a new HW esc, on goes the capacitors lol….as for those ceramic bearings….I was going to do that …..right up until I saw the cost 😂😂😂….I like to be able to compete /win races…but not that much 😂😂 I’m in the “ it’s the taking part…” part of the venn diagram 😂
PS another ‘bend’ of the rules one of the ex TC guys once told me was, though some tracks don’t allow tyre additives, there’s nothing to stop you using it on tyres when not racing - e.g when in storage during the off season / in between race weekends.
All or nothing at the top I guess
Not sure I've "broken" any rules yet but defiantly "fractured" a couple....great video as always
cheers buddy ... fractures dont count
@@PopalongRC phew🤣😜
I like Carl's "special" prize. After all he did show up.
hahahaha
Also, I plan on running my same car untouched from October CWIC, so a yardstick for comparison. Not racing on the 10th sadly, but racing again in January.
That could work out
That capacity might help a very little at a full stop. Doesn’t do much at all. Get a good set up and focus on corner speed. Then you’ll go faster. Why not just get the yeah racing motor mount. Much better solution for gearing. That body looks crappy. What options do you have?
Not surprised to hear the mondeo is the shell to have. It was developed to be aerodynamic in a bid to aid fuel consumption. However the ceramic bearings are a total waste of money. The purpose of a ceramic bearing is to resist heat and I doubt these things are that fast. Just clean out the old grease and then run light oil instead.
Good to know
to increase the power, you have to charge your lipo with the max allowed charging rating e.g 12A, (to reduce the inner resistance-( Ri) of the lipo tue higher temp inside the lipo) -and use a charger, which has a high value of balance current e.g. --junsi X6
Heads up, just checked and TT-02 gear set is a break in Iconic rules. Kit 53665 is stated as the only permitted gearing hopup. 🤙
We know … that’s why we stipulated benders and breakers
Great video. Great tips . Yeah. Ceramic bearings is a huge strerch. Not realy kepping it a entry leval class at that point
Right on there
Thats true, im a solid B driver, never win anything!! 😆
Feel your pain
At some of the outdoor races I’ve done in the stock class there are always some cars that are obviously a lot faster in a straight line than others. I think maybe the TT02 gearing is used but also have heard of people modifying the core motor timing which is cheating. I’m not the best driver so know I’ll never win so just run my car stock for fun.
Great video guys! ;) I have one question: How does the Hobbywing 1080 ESC performs on Tamiya TT platforms? Hobbywing says this ESC is designed for 1/10 crawlers. I'm curious about this.
You are right it’s marketed as a crawler esc but I’ve had good results in my tt01, most people I race with use it too
The video cutting to b-roll vision of cars racing during the "knob twisting" segment. *Straight faces sold separately*. What was the purpose of switching back to old speedies lads? Is there some kind of edge to swapping back. And I think the lighter diff, is only for a certain grip level or track. The Tamiya F104s have a similar thing with either a metal or carbon fibre rear axle. Good job, this video was a real crowd pleaser.
cheers buddy
You didn’t tell us what the Aw grease was for did you? . I presume it was for inside the gear diff? . Also the haircut is looking fresh on the guy with the beard. I still want to shave that beard off every time I see it though lol . Ps ditch that savox servo or get a power cap for the receiver .
Don’t know if you have seen them but I use the yeah racing ultimate power cap . It holds so much current I can still use the steering for a while after the battery is unplugged. Great for stock racing.
good tip on the yeah racing caps
With the shocks witch pistons do you recommend
What tyre compound have you guys had most success with on the black carpet?
Rush 32 were perfect for TC with the tamiya could go a bit softer
You boys racing this weekend at the winter cup?
Can’t make this week … see you is 2024
@@PopalongRC that’s a shame but defo see you both in 24. Merry Christmas and a happy new year to you both 👍🏁
Why don't you try the team C Honda NSX body shell? That body is quite good here in tt02 races. The A-main final always consist of NSX bodies
In indonesia btw
Hard to get hold of and also similar price
YOu will both go blind! 😋
might improve our driving
You should have a proper go at speed running, the cost of a 200mph car will make you wince 😂
it is on the cards we have something planned for 2024
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🦾🦾🦾brilliant
Cheers buddy
at this point, just about every spec racer is as bad as sam hornish jr
hahahaha
Don’t get any cheating outdoor off road…..
Sorry “benders”
That’s fair
I still run a vintage Novak dually (no limit) in my hpi sprint, I can tell the difference in power between it and a hw 1060. But £55 for ceramic bearings is a bit too much wonga for bearings my liking lol. Also when I got rid of my old style TV some years ago I took all the capacitors out😁 so I run a large single cap as well 👍👍
On the hunt for capacitors now
@@PopalongRC istox caps are great receiver caps or KO Propo advantage caps, I also use these 1s 👍👍