Hi guys. I’ve been following you for a few years and love the content- but this is amazing. Like lots of others I’m coming back to the hobby and so much has changed since the 80’s. It’s so refreshing to see a video that explains the absolute basics. Please please can we have some more of this type of video. It truly helps even simple explanations of set up radio gear and esc etc. many thanks and keep up the great work - Marcus from essex. 👏
that was a really well put together and informative video! I esp liked the overlays you put up with part names and numbers on, buying the correct parts can be riddled with anxiety for a lot of peeps new to the hobby so that was a good shout. Much love and all the best for the new year!
I don’t race trucks so it is so interesting to see the comparison between different Cars and there setups… It would be brilliant to see more videos like this . Keep up the good work 👍👍👍p.s (have a happy new year)
Great video. Love the editing of the moving buttons of parts with part numbers. Great touch Carl....Great tips. PS. Yeah good one to leave "negative Mark "out of the scene. Lol😂
I did run the Rlaarlo transmitter on 4x AAA baterys. Well that doesnt work at all, it keeps shutting down. Its a great transmitter but you do need a 2s lipo to power it
It's actually the chroming process Tamiya uses that make the plastic brittle. I epoxied my rear wheels as soon as I got the kit. Been racing my truck over 10 years now and never broken one.
This is a excellent video. I agree that it's a great class. Your tips are excellent1. You mentioned that different tracks or clubs have different rules. If a new person plans to run at the same place they should check the rules for the track they're going to race. Some have different rules about hop ups. I think the tip about the M Chassis wheels is a great one. The center of the stock rear wheels break very easily. Some people in my area run the stock front wheels both front and rear. This video is a great idea. I hope you and your family have a wonderful and healthy new year.
Merry christmas guys , Thanks for the setup video can you say what you put in the diffs. Interesting you run harder springs in the rear most cars have the front springs harder than the rear.
Nice informative video 👍 I’ve been looking at getting into racing and the trucks seem to be a good place to start One question I’m unsure about is “transponders” do you need one to race and if so are they all the same and am I correct in saying I need a spare channel on the receiver for it ?
Most RX's are min 3 channels so there's normally a spare one for the transponder. However perfectly ok to use a Y lead if you already have a fan plugged in. Check your local clubs class rules before spending money on upgrades as some, like mine, only allow min mods e.g.bearings in place of bushes, motor cooling etc
Great video! I think you did a video before about gluing the body so that it doesn't turn into a headless horseman 😂. I just bought the yeah racing shocks and they leak out of the tops. I may put some plumbers thread tape to see if that fixes the problem. Have they ever leaked on you?
Morning boys, I'm running this class now , only had a few meetings but the main problem is that I have had is Over steering. iv already done all of these mods too.... Last meeting I added lead to the rear Axel which helped but I then smashed a wheel off. Also half shafts what are you using? I've got ally ones and plastic but the ally seam to snap pretty easily. I'm thinking about going back to Tamiya ones.
Whats your steering rate set to. Usually two things with trucks, glue front tire walls, and steering rate. You can do a bit with car weight balance, but generally the biggest benefit is in front tirewall gluing and setting the steering rate lower.
@@tm5123 umm my steering rate, I'm not sure. Do you think I need some expo on the lower end. I already have the sidewalls glued up on the front. I don't have any grip roll issues. The best I have had it running is with the lead weight over the rear. Still wasn't great
@@adamknight6752 Try setting the steering rate to like 85% and give it a go. You can also put less grip sauce on the front tires. And, since this class in your country apparently allows for oil shocks, put harder shocks in the front, and softer in rear, to give you more rear grip. But I'd suggest starting with the steering rate. Its pretty common that people drive around with 100% steering rate ruining their driving.
The club I race at doesn't use additive.....my front diff is Very stiff but not locked ( wink wink ) I also have glue on the front side walls. I am running the Tamiya shell tho.
What’s the part number of the etronix servo you mentioned please? (ET2045?)Just about to start building the fat fox truck, will probably never race so keeping costs as low as possible. Also love the radio gear you mentioned (am VERY tempted-how much are extra receivers for this please)but also want to fly my aircraft again so may go for the 2 stick approach and get a Spektrum dx6? What receiver would you recommend (have only ever used 27&35mhz-yes I’m old 😅)
Hi Carl, I don't have a truck yet but what part no. do you have for the M chassis wheels you suggest for upgrading to and kg rating of the servo, thanks Allan.
Its cheaper as always with Tamiya just to buy a new kit when you need a new body shell, that bitty design body shell is banned at most UK clubs anyway. As Mark would say its a 'benders body shell' ! ............... just buy a new kit, that way you get a new shell, fresh motor, new tyres and a lot of needed useful spares !
@@PopalongRCTrue but the majority major racing teams (1:1) buy two cars, sometimes three with a two car team just for spares. Buying it piecemeal cost more than buying another car. If you tend to have lots of breakage then I would say he's right.
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Nice informative video Carl, we’ll done mate 👍
Cheers buddy
Appreciate the comments
My GF got me one for Christmas and I just finished building it🔥 Did some laps in the yard and man it was so fun!
I just built my first one also .. I couldn't stop laughing watching it go around 😂
If you are smiling you are winning
The little bounce is hilarious haha@@davidm8584
Hi guys. I’ve been following you for a few years and love the content- but this is amazing. Like lots of others I’m coming back to the hobby and so much has changed since the 80’s. It’s so refreshing to see a video that explains the absolute basics. Please please can we have some more of this type of video. It truly helps even simple explanations of set up radio gear and esc etc. many thanks and keep up the great work - Marcus from essex. 👏
Awesome! Thank you!
We will see what we can do
7:11 epic traction roll tip , that needs its own video
that was a really well put together and informative video! I esp liked the overlays you put up with part names and numbers on, buying the correct parts can be riddled with anxiety for a lot of peeps new to the hobby so that was a good shout. Much love and all the best for the new year!
All the best buddy
I don’t race trucks so it is so interesting to see the comparison between different
Cars and there setups… It would be brilliant to see more videos like this . Keep up the good work 👍👍👍p.s (have a happy new year)
Thank you
Great video. Love the editing of the moving buttons of parts with part numbers. Great touch Carl....Great tips. PS. Yeah good one to leave "negative Mark "out of the scene. Lol😂
Experimenting with icons and buttons etc
@PopalongRC always innovating 💡....Great stuff....good work
Another great video. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Keep up the good work :)
Thank you
All the best
Yay, 10k in 2023. Now 100k in 24 🤞😁 Good luck fella's 🍻
Hahahaha that would be nice but very unlikely
But let’s aim high
I did run the Rlaarlo transmitter on 4x AAA baterys. Well that doesnt work at all, it keeps shutting down. Its a great transmitter but you do need a 2s lipo to power it
Thank you ..can you do the same with your M07 and maybe get a mardave assassin too?
Sounds like a plan
I found a few clubs here so now I need to visit andcsee what and when they race.
Hope it goes well when you Popalong
It's actually the chroming process Tamiya uses that make the plastic brittle.
I epoxied my rear wheels as soon as I got the kit.
Been racing my truck over 10 years now and never broken one.
Good to know
What type of epoxy did you use?
@@davidm8584 two part Loctite Rapid
Excellent video, some very good setup tips there!!
Glad you liked it!
This is a excellent video. I agree that it's a great class. Your tips are excellent1. You mentioned that different tracks or clubs have different rules. If a new person plans to run at the same place they should check the rules for the track they're going to race. Some have different rules about hop ups. I think the tip about the M Chassis wheels is a great one. The center of the stock rear wheels break very easily. Some people in my area run the stock front wheels both front and rear. This video is a great idea. I hope you and your family have a wonderful and healthy new year.
Cheers Michael
Great video as always. Answers my questions posted to your most recent video!
I'm glad you told people about traction role and you call it grip role.😂
Vice nice video!
Cheers Bod
9.99K subscribers now 😁 top bombing 💪
10k now
So happy
Merry christmas guys , Thanks for the setup video can you say what you put in the diffs. Interesting you run harder springs in the rear most cars have the front springs harder than the rear.
Aw grease in the front and nothing in the rear
Nice informative video 👍
I’ve been looking at getting into racing and the trucks seem to be a good place to start
One question I’m unsure about is “transponders” do you need one to race and if so are they all the same and am I correct in saying I need a spare channel on the receiver for it ?
Each club will have there own timing system and transponders can vary
Suggest you chat to the local clubs
Most RX's are min 3 channels so there's normally a spare one for the transponder. However perfectly ok to use a Y lead if you already have a fan plugged in. Check your local clubs class rules before spending money on upgrades as some, like mine, only allow min mods e.g.bearings in place of bushes, motor cooling etc
Great video! I think you did a video before about gluing the body so that it doesn't turn into a headless horseman 😂. I just bought the yeah racing shocks and they leak out of the tops. I may put some plumbers thread tape to see if that fixes the problem. Have they ever leaked on you?
Never had any leak
They bleed out when tighten up but once made up they don’t leak ..
Thank you
You're welcome
Have you tried the 90A ISDT brushed ESC for racing?
No
Not tried that one
Ive found year racing shocks a bit leaky. Definitely not tamiya trf quality.
Not running a tamiya shell? what a bender 😉 😂
I e not had an issue with them and they are on most of my cars
Agreed TRF shocks are very nice
Morning boys, I'm running this class now , only had a few meetings but the main problem is that I have had is Over steering. iv already done all of these mods too.... Last meeting I added lead to the rear Axel which helped but I then smashed a wheel off. Also half shafts what are you using? I've got ally ones and plastic but the ally seam to snap pretty easily. I'm thinking about going back to Tamiya ones.
Whats your steering rate set to. Usually two things with trucks, glue front tire walls, and steering rate. You can do a bit with car weight balance, but generally the biggest benefit is in front tirewall gluing and setting the steering rate lower.
@@tm5123 umm my steering rate, I'm not sure. Do you think I need some expo on the lower end. I already have the sidewalls glued up on the front. I don't have any grip roll issues. The best I have had it running is with the lead weight over the rear. Still wasn't great
@@adamknight6752 Try setting the steering rate to like 85% and give it a go. You can also put less grip sauce on the front tires. And, since this class in your country apparently allows for oil shocks, put harder shocks in the front, and softer in rear, to give you more rear grip. But I'd suggest starting with the steering rate. Its pretty common that people drive around with 100% steering rate ruining their driving.
Put damping grease or putty in the front diff
The club I race at doesn't use additive.....my front diff is Very stiff but not locked ( wink wink ) I also have glue on the front side walls. I am running the Tamiya shell tho.
do you ever use foam inserts in the tyres, truck or touring car ?
Yes to truck ( item number in the video)
No to TC
U6733 shown in 6:48 seems to be the wrong insert size.
What’s the part number of the etronix servo you mentioned please? (ET2045?)Just about to start building the fat fox truck, will probably never race so keeping costs as low as possible. Also love the radio gear you mentioned (am VERY tempted-how much are extra receivers for this please)but also want to fly my aircraft again so may go for the 2 stick approach and get a Spektrum dx6? What receiver would you recommend (have only ever used 27&35mhz-yes I’m old 😅)
2.4ghz much better tech these days
Et2070 servo … metal geared great value for Tamiya racing but not needed on a shelf queen
@@PopalongRCthanks! Have ordered the tx and rx via your link!! Looks awesome for the price!
Hi Carl, I don't have a truck yet but what part no. do you have for the M chassis wheels you suggest for upgrading to and kg rating of the servo, thanks Allan.
51394
@@PopalongRC Thanks for the reply.
Its cheaper as always with Tamiya just to buy a new kit when you need a new body shell, that bitty design body shell is banned at most UK clubs anyway. As Mark would say its a 'benders body shell' ! ............... just buy a new kit, that way you get a new shell, fresh motor, new tyres and a lot of needed useful spares !
£130 for new truck not cheaper than £30 shell though
@@PopalongRCTrue but the majority major racing teams (1:1) buy two cars, sometimes three with a two car team just for spares. Buying it piecemeal cost more than buying another car. If you tend to have lots of breakage then I would say he's right.
This is a thing people with a large budget say, great having a box of spares you won't get to use, rather than just buying the most broken items
@@memememe2674 the body shell + motor + wheels and tyres + spur gear, bought separately is the price of a kit ! - do your research before commenting !
Bearings?
It is so obvious that I forgot to include it ….
@@PopalongRC oooops...lol
Where are you buying the rlarlo transmitter ?
Direct from rlaarlo, link in the description 👍
Just careful while race tamiya truck rules , must be truck kits not upgrade shocking/wheels,tyres mmm?
Only up grade is alum shaft and hubs
.
Different clubs have different rules - one local club is run by a shop so makes sense for him to allow hop ups as he can the sell upgrades …