Hey man, 53yr old Dad here, my experience is 65-66 Mustangs and my newer F150s. I bought matching GMC Terrains for my kids and this code popped on my sons. Very, very good video, going to replace the exhaust and since the intake is right there, I agree, gonna do that also. Be a good lesson for him. Thank you and heres to a very rare "like" from me.
My daughter called, in tears. Said her car had the check engine light on. AutoZone ran the code. Came up with this. Got her in the garage out of the cold. With the labor of her boyfriend and my tools, my arm in a sling from rotator cuff surgery, had this done in just a few minutes. Good video 👍
I had labrum repair surgery late last year, I know of the pain! Very please to hear this helped your family out. Keep up with the physical therapy when the doctor clears you! cheers
I just bought a 2013 Chevy Equinox for my Granddaughter. I did some reading on the Ecotek motors and learned about the notorious oil consumption problems. Without listing the causes, I will just cut to the chase and say that consistent oil changes....around 3,000-4,000 mile intervals...is critical. Yes...3,000-4,000 mile oil change intervals....otherwise oil sludge will start accumulating and that is not good for the motor. I have talked with several reputable repair shops and the 3,000-4,000 mile oil change interval is what they recommend. This idea about newer vehicles being able to go 8,000 miles or more between oil changes is ridiculous. Change you oil just like in the old days.... around 5,000 miles, and on these notorious Ecotek motors...even more often. Yea, you're gonna spend some money on oil changes over the years, but it's a lot cheaper than very expensive repair bills, or having to buy another vehicle. The engineers who designed this motor should be sued for their incompetency and lack of proper testing.
Wow the dealer told me $120 for computer checking of the issue. And about 2 hours of work, roughly another $200… did it with $130 parts and your instructions… Thank you.
I had codes: P0010, P0011 and P0014. Google led me to believe these parts were the likely culprit of my rough idle and stalling under load. I found this video while researching the issue and your breakdown is flawless. One of the best how to's on RUclips man! I tested the actuators with a multimeter and exhaust was at 13.5 and intake was a big fat goose egg. Swapped them both due to the low cost and it runs like new. Thanks man!
Great video, thanks for the step by step instructions. Would have taken me a lot longer without watching this. The only thing I did different - I took the sensor out before disconnecting the clip, then I could get a small flat screwdriver in there to get the clip off. The car runs a lot a smoother now.
Those plugs can be removed by sliding the grey plastic lock upwards then pushing the black tab and pulling up on the harness. The grey plastic piece is a lock. Just a tip if you encounter this again
I don’t comment on videos, but thank you for just getting straight to the point and posting a Very helpful video! To many Guys on here like to here themselves talk
Dude, you are my hero with the connector removal clue. I have a 2011 Saab 9-5 with the 2.0L Ecotec, but no videos to reference that I initially checked out for other cars, GM included, that didn't have people using the tab and pushing on the top, not around the bottom! I mangled the thing up terribly and the tab wouldn't come off... but I didn't need to remove the f'ing tab. It still took me a while to get the rear one to engage as you're maneuvering from behind, and I became so discombobulated I put them in backwards, but 3 hours later - a lot of that on RUclips, it's done. I thought after reading up on this P0010 error, this is easier than changing oil, no problem.. absent the connector removal, it is. Luckily I didn't bust anything, just have one a connection a bit chewed up.
Nice video... it helped. BTW, you can't mix up the plugs. They are "keyed", so only the intake fits the intake and exhaust fits the exhaust (after removing, look at the plug itself. You can see the "keying").
Good video. Mine had a fraction of the sludge barely any at all but it seems to be running much more smoothly now. Frequent oil changes are crucial to these cars, excessive oil consumption is common with certian years and models.
I'll second the excessive oil consumption. My son's 2012 equinox eats oil like crazy. I just replaced these solenoids yesterday and for added fun one of the connectors was broken (probably the real reason for the codes but I already had the solenoids and the repair is dead easy so what the heck) so I had to replace that, which cost more than both solenoids, combined. Now it purrs like a kitten. One thing I would add is that you have to replace the timing chain at 100k miles. These cars are notorious for those breaking and if it does break, you can kiss your engine goodbye. While you are doing the timing chain you may as well do the water pump while the timing chain is off and it is a good time to flush the coolant and put in all new. The incremental cost to doing the flush and water pump is not too bad considering most of the labor is replacing the chain anyway. It is expensive, but worth it if you plan on keeping it a while.
My wife’s 2012 Terrain was part of a recall for excessive oil consumption. They replaced the piston/s for free. This was about three years ago. Now there’s a recall for the catalytic converter. I’m sure all that burned oil caused this issue. Bad pistons are a known recall problem on these engines.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I had the check engine code P0010 7E8 on my 2011 GMC Terrain. Following your video (and a couple of others on RUclips) I was able to replace both solenoids and cleared the check engine code and the problem has gone.
I think you just saved me $300-$400 (can't get out of my mechanics shop for less), this is exactly the error code that we're getting on my wife's 2015 Terrain, the error message at the auto supply store reads: "P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Control Circuit", and since you're an OldSoulMillennial, you just got a subscribe from this boomer.
The parts came in this morning, literally took me 20 minutes and it's fixed, thanks again. And by the way, an S screwdriver works perfectly to pop the tabs on the connectors, I think probably better than your right hand pick since the screwdriver has a flat surface. Most people probably already own one of these but you can buy it on Amazon in a 3 pack for $6.
Here’s a tip, instead of the pick from the bottom of the plug, the correct way is to remove the little gray U clip on the top of the plug, then you push the black tap to release the bottom of the tap and pull up.
Did these yesterday , u can wiggle them out without taking the harness off. Then turn on its side and its way easier to take off harness with flat head. No 90° pick needed just make sure ya have a big rag ready .
Remove the electrical connector correctly and they are easier to remove. the white tab is a lock slide that up first then you can squeeze the release with your finger. also the sludge is because you don't change your oil often enough change it at 3500-4 and you'll get rid of the sludge. imagine doing dishes with the same water for a month your not gonna have good results after awhile
I'm doing this repair now. Just wanted to mention that once you take off the white clip on top of the solenoid then you're able to just squeeze the black clip with your fingers and it is a quick release just pull up.
What a fantastic video! 5 stars all day. Thank you for making this because I'm getting the P0013 code and I'm getting ready to sell this car. Looks like I can easily fix this due to your selfless video tutorial to help others.Again, thank you for this, very appreciated sir! Edit: So I did this repair and it seemed to fix the issue but I forgot to put that smaller hose back on the side of the airbox when I was done and it tripped a new code(P228D)......once I reconnected it and drove the car for a bit all the codes are gone and its running good. Thank you very much for the video!
I was wondering why he was going thru all that work when he could have just pulled up the grey tabs lol. Seems he didn’t understand how the connector worked so he found a way to jimmy it off with the locking tabs still on and blamed GMC lol.
@@cesaralfredomJust pulled them off a 12 year old Equinox, no issues. Obviously the older the car, the more brittle the plastic from all the heating and cooling cycles, just be careful and you can get them off without damaging them.
I have a 2013 with 176,000 miles on it! Just replaced the intake solenoid. Moved the white tabs up, squeezed the top, pulled the connectors right off. Hello from NE Montana. 10 miles from Canada. @@cesaralfredom
Great video my friend, very clear and descriptive. I especially like "GM engineers are scumbags" LOL... These cars are notorious for mass oil consumption causing catalytic converter to get sludged up with the excess burning of oil in the exhaust as well as the cats failures as well. When the cats get clogged from the M.O.C. it causes these solenoids to gather the coffee sludge and fail. Mine has 135K on it and I'm changing them for the 4th time. We had a recall for this issue and GM honored the warranty and rebuild the engine to no avail. Same M.O.C. problem again, same cat problems and same burned up solenoids.
I've had my terrain about 10 years now, just about learned everything about it in that time matter, but them VVT cylnoids are crucial, just make sure you change the oil around 20% oil life, don't wait til it gets to 0% & you won't have that problem with them.any questions reach out to me hope I can help out😁✌
Great video Replaced the exh side with Autozone unit-same code Went with oem ac Delco same code The intake side blinks with the test light but not the exhaust side?
Great video bro, really helped me save a few extra dollars instead of taking it to the shop. Car might be one of the easier to work on.. now up next for me is front cat, mid cat and muffler😩
The white part on the top of the plug is the lock. You need to pull it up then the lock can be pushed in to pull of the plug. I do like your method. Maybe less chance of breaking the clip.
Dude awesome video, helped me do a swap I didn’t even know how in less than 30 min. Would’ve been quicker but I don’t read comments and fought that clip with my right angle pick for some time
@@LakissaJ started idling really rough when I would come to a stop sign and when I'd give it gas to go it would stall. Once an engine light came on I got a code reader which when I researched it I was led to this. It was the only symptoms I was having. When I took it to the shop they wanted to charge me to take the engine apart and start looking around. Figured I'd start with this and go from there. Seemed to work but I ended up trading in the vehicle before I started having more issues
Your video is really helpful. I got the job done on the exhaust solenoid, but however lol the intake solenoid won't unscrew. Did some idiot weld it down & is there someway to unscrew it?
This video was so helpful , I'm a single woman and think I may could just handle this myself. I'm kinda handy and good with following directions. But could you tell me about how long it took you to do this in real time. Please and thank you!
Nice video ...! Same car, same codes, I changed both solenoides but the same codes persists... No other different codes add.. What could be ? Any idea ?? Thanks !
Great video.. my car just threw this code and i got the same make and year. So ill get my parts from rock auto and give it a shot. Thanks! Edit: mine didnt have gunk built up like the one in the vid but i replaced both and the hard knocking went away, runs real quiet now.
You pop off the white locking clip on the solenoids and then you can push the locking clip with your thumb and it pops off. Also if you are doing this to get your check engine light off, do not erase the code. Just start the car and let it run for a minute, then shut it off and let it sit for 2 minutes then restart it and let it run for another minute and shut it off and wait for 2 minutes again and the 3rd time you restart it your check engine light should be off. Now your car will pass inspection without you having to wait for all the other parameters to reset to pass inspection or wasting gasoline on doing the drive cycles to set all the parameters.
Thank you so much! Great video. I ended up tightening the bolt on the new actuator too much and it broke off! (Which meant another RUclips video to fix that!). Much appreciated.
Just did this mines was reversed the exhaust solenoid was in front and the intake was in the back..does it matter which side they are on as long as the connectors go to the proper solenoid
@@OldSoulMillennial I replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids on my son's 2012 GMC Terrain 2.4L, a week ago, then cleared the code. Unfortunately, the check engine light came back on a few days later while he was driving. When I see him this weekend, I'll check for the code, but I'm suspecting it will be P0014 again. If so, any suggestions about looking further? Thank you.
I'm not a mechanic but because of your awesome video I really had no issues. However when I started the engine the check engine light did not go off. Can you please tell me why? Do I need to get auto zone to clear the codes? Or is there something elsi that is wrong that I need to address.
@@MrRenken They can absolutely go bad, especially if you use cheap aftermarket ones like I did. Usually there will be an engine code. Also, there are screens on the solenoids that tend to get plugged up.
the pick is not needed. you release the white safety retainer by pulling it up. and the push the black tab down. releasing the tab he used the pick on. its most likely going to break if you force the tab up without releasing the white safety tab. other than that i have no comment. good video good information. oil change every 6k is a good idea. not 8 or 9k.
It is impossible to screw up the electrical connectors to the solenoids and put them on the wrong one. If you look inside the connectors (or the solenoids) you can see that one looks like a rectangle and the other looks like a rectangle with a rounded side so it looks like a hut. That being said, it is extremely easy to put the solenoids in the wrong spot so only do one at a time and triple check that you put the correct one in the correct spot by looking at the socket on the solenoid you are replacing and compare it to the replacement solenoid. They need to match.
Thank you, I was just wondering this myself. Mine were changed a couple of months ago and now the P0014 is back on and the car seems to keep wanting to stop. Should i order these again and replace them?
i replaced both the intake and exhaust solenoids but now im only getting a code for the intake. do you think it could be a bad connection? when i drive the car, i have to press on the gas a little more firmly than usual just so it doesnt just randomly stalls on me. 2012 gmc terrain. please help 😢
Could be anything. Clear the codes, once the car stalls, check codes again. If you are still getting the exhaust solenoid code, you may have a bad connection or a bad part.
Some dust got into my exhaust selenoid and now my car is shutting off and shaking so bad on idle, could it be cus of the dust and if so how do I clean the socket?
Water in the oil makes it sludgy. These cars have a water pump assembly in the crank case. You may have had a failing (leaky) water pump contaminating the oil. YIKES!
So after replacing both the VVT solenoid valves, When I try to start the car it is really rough it kinda starts for a second but stalls or is crazy noisy. Only way I can explain is is sounds like it is not running in sync (if that makes sense) Then there are times it is trying to crank but doesn't turn the motor over completely. Is there some way it could of threw the timing off on it?
That motor is known to crack the timing chain tensioner and skip timing. Always check your oil with that motor to because they are known to burn oil, so this all could happen from low oil
Good afternoon friend OldSoulMillenial My 2011 GMC Terrain has the following problem: A couple of days ago I had the timing chains and tensioner replaced. The next day they gave it to me, when I was parked at a red light, the revolutions dropped to zero. In the end it turned off. I had it scanned and I got code P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance/Range Problem-Advance Overrange (Bank 1) What would be due to the engine dying at 0 RPM while running? lit friend?
I'm still getting the P0013 after replacing the solenoids. The funny thing is that I can feel the improvements. The car idles and accelerates way better. There used to be a slight hesitation when accelerating and the car almost stalled on my wife a few times. The crazy thing is that the solenoids were replaced during the recall about three years ago, but it looks like they already went bad. Which is why I changed them out. I just need to figure out how to get the check engine light to clear.
Good afternoon friend! My 2011 GMC Terrain has the following problem: A couple of days ago I had the timing chains and tensioner replaced. The next day they gave it to me, when I was parked at a red light, the revolutions dropped to zero. Finally the engine died. I had it scanned and I got code P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance/Range Problem-Advance Overrange (Bank 1) What would be due to the engine dying at 0 RPM while running? lit friend?
First thing I would do, is take it back to the mechanic that did the timing chain job. It's possible he/she forgot to plug in the solenoid or perhaps damaged the solenoid.
@@OldSoulMillennial Isn't it the camshaft actuator that is failing? or the mechanical high pressure fuel pump? Or even the solenoids as you say friend...
I was getting the error code P0010 for my 2014 gmc terrain, and replaced both solenoids truck sounds so much better, and engine light it out, rides nice... Although I have no warning light on, on the dash I run the diagnostic test and still have the error code popped up... Is this normal, should it clear over time??
This is normal. The code is no longer an "active" code and is basically a stored "passive" code. Over time it should disappear. I would recommend you clear the code manually with a scanner. Optional, but recommended.
Slide the grey tab up before you break the connectors amd 9 thousand miles for a L/o/f is way to long, I don't care what kind of oil you are using. The condensation is normal for those engines , nothing will stop that from happening
amzn.to/49xKYc9 replacement Intake & Exhaust solenoid I used.
Hey man, 53yr old Dad here, my experience is 65-66 Mustangs and my newer F150s. I bought matching GMC Terrains for my kids and this code popped on my sons.
Very, very good video, going to replace the exhaust and since the intake is right there, I agree, gonna do that also. Be a good lesson for him. Thank you and heres to a very rare "like" from me.
My daughter called, in tears. Said her car had the check engine light on. AutoZone ran the code. Came up with this. Got her in the garage out of the cold. With the labor of her boyfriend and my tools, my arm in a sling from rotator cuff surgery, had this done in just a few minutes. Good video 👍
I had labrum repair surgery late last year, I know of the pain! Very please to hear this helped your family out. Keep up with the physical therapy when the doctor clears you! cheers
I just bought a 2013 Chevy Equinox for my Granddaughter. I did some reading on the Ecotek motors and learned about the notorious oil consumption problems. Without listing the causes, I will just cut to the chase and say that consistent oil changes....around 3,000-4,000 mile intervals...is critical. Yes...3,000-4,000 mile oil change intervals....otherwise oil sludge will start accumulating and that is not good for the motor. I have talked with several reputable repair shops and the 3,000-4,000 mile oil change interval is what they recommend.
This idea about newer vehicles being able to go 8,000 miles or more between oil changes is ridiculous. Change you oil just like in the old days.... around 5,000 miles, and on these notorious Ecotek motors...even more often. Yea, you're gonna spend some money on oil changes over the years, but it's a lot cheaper than very expensive repair bills, or having to buy another vehicle.
The engineers who designed this motor should be sued for their incompetency and lack of proper testing.
Wow the dealer told me $120 for computer checking of the issue. And about 2 hours of work, roughly another $200… did it with $130 parts and your instructions… Thank you.
I had codes: P0010, P0011 and P0014. Google led me to believe these parts were the likely culprit of my rough idle and stalling under load. I found this video while researching the issue and your breakdown is flawless. One of the best how to's on RUclips man! I tested the actuators with a multimeter and exhaust was at 13.5 and intake was a big fat goose egg. Swapped them both due to the low cost and it runs like new. Thanks man!
Thanks Jesse, glad this video helped you out!
Used this to fix my mom's car. Thanks for the video. Very detailed and easy to follow 👌
Im a 60 yr old women and i just changed both my solenoids hurray for me !!!!😁
Was very easy with these instructions. Didn’t fix my P0011, and my solenoids were not dirty at all-2013 Terrain here. Appreciate the video.
Did you clear the engine codes after the repair?
Great video, thanks for the step by step instructions.
Would have taken me a lot longer without watching this.
The only thing I did different - I took the sensor out before disconnecting the clip, then I could get a small flat screwdriver in there to get the clip off.
The car runs a lot a smoother now.
Those plugs can be removed by sliding the grey plastic lock upwards then pushing the black tab and pulling up on the harness. The grey plastic piece is a lock. Just a tip if you encounter this again
This....👍
Omg i about died when i watched that shit 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I don’t comment on videos, but thank you for just getting straight to the point and posting a Very helpful video!
To many Guys on here like to here themselves talk
Dude, you are my hero with the connector removal clue. I have a 2011 Saab 9-5 with the 2.0L Ecotec, but no videos to reference that I initially checked out for other cars, GM included, that didn't have people using the tab and pushing on the top, not around the bottom! I mangled the thing up terribly and the tab wouldn't come off... but I didn't need to remove the f'ing tab. It still took me a while to get the rear one to engage as you're maneuvering from behind, and I became so discombobulated I put them in backwards, but 3 hours later - a lot of that on RUclips, it's done. I thought after reading up on this P0010 error, this is easier than changing oil, no problem.. absent the connector removal, it is. Luckily I didn't bust anything, just have one a connection a bit chewed up.
Thanks, just got done doing this with my daughter on her car showing her how to do it, your video made it easy.
Nice video... it helped.
BTW, you can't mix up the plugs. They are "keyed", so only the intake fits the intake and exhaust fits the exhaust (after removing, look at the plug itself. You can see the "keying").
Good video. Mine had a fraction of the sludge barely any at all but it seems to be running much more smoothly now. Frequent oil changes are crucial to these cars, excessive oil consumption is common with certian years and models.
I'll second the excessive oil consumption. My son's 2012 equinox eats oil like crazy. I just replaced these solenoids yesterday and for added fun one of the connectors was broken (probably the real reason for the codes but I already had the solenoids and the repair is dead easy so what the heck) so I had to replace that, which cost more than both solenoids, combined. Now it purrs like a kitten.
One thing I would add is that you have to replace the timing chain at 100k miles. These cars are notorious for those breaking and if it does break, you can kiss your engine goodbye. While you are doing the timing chain you may as well do the water pump while the timing chain is off and it is a good time to flush the coolant and put in all new. The incremental cost to doing the flush and water pump is not too bad considering most of the labor is replacing the chain anyway. It is expensive, but worth it if you plan on keeping it a while.
My wife’s 2012 Terrain was part of a recall for excessive oil consumption. They replaced the piston/s for free. This was about three years ago. Now there’s a recall for the catalytic converter. I’m sure all that burned oil caused this issue. Bad pistons are a known recall problem on these engines.
Thank you for this very helpful video. I had the check engine code P0010 7E8 on my 2011 GMC Terrain. Following your video (and a couple of others on RUclips) I was able to replace both solenoids and cleared the check engine code and the problem has gone.
Awesome walkthrough, Since I didnt have a pick i first pulled out the camshafts and then used a flathead to disconnect them
I think you just saved me $300-$400 (can't get out of my mechanics shop for less), this is exactly the error code that we're getting on my wife's 2015 Terrain, the error message at the auto supply store reads: "P0013 Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve Control Circuit", and since you're an OldSoulMillennial, you just got a subscribe from this boomer.
The parts came in this morning, literally took me 20 minutes and it's fixed, thanks again. And by the way, an S screwdriver works perfectly to pop the tabs on the connectors, I think probably better than your right hand pick since the screwdriver has a flat surface. Most people probably already own one of these but you can buy it on Amazon in a 3 pack for $6.
Here’s a tip, instead of the pick from the bottom of the plug, the correct way is to remove the little gray U clip on the top of the plug, then you push the black tap to release the bottom of the tap and pull up.
Thank for the run down. Help me confirm it was an easy job before committing to do it for a friend.
Did these yesterday , u can wiggle them out without taking the harness off. Then turn on its side and its way easier to take off harness with flat head. No 90° pick needed just make sure ya have a big rag ready .
Remove the electrical connector correctly and they are easier to remove. the white tab is a lock slide that up first then you can squeeze the release with your finger. also the sludge is because you don't change your oil often enough change it at 3500-4 and you'll get rid of the sludge. imagine doing dishes with the same water for a month your not gonna have good results after awhile
That's how I got mine off, the lock tabs slid up and the connectors came off with a little tug
will this cause also the engine to run rough?
Thank you SO much for this step by step video. I fixed my vehicle this morning by myself and it was super easy to do. This video is great!
I'm doing this repair now. Just wanted to mention that once you take off the white clip on top of the solenoid then you're able to just squeeze the black clip with your fingers and it is a quick release just pull up.
What a fantastic video! 5 stars all day. Thank you for making this because I'm getting the P0013 code and I'm getting ready to sell this car. Looks like I can easily fix this due to your selfless video tutorial to help others.Again, thank you for this, very appreciated sir!
Edit: So I did this repair and it seemed to fix the issue but I forgot to put that smaller hose back on the side of the airbox when I was done and it tripped a new code(P228D)......once I reconnected it and drove the car for a bit all the codes are gone and its running good. Thank you very much for the video!
Those grey tabs on the connector slide up and you can push on the clip and they pull right off
They are "Supposed" to work as you say. But no, they don't. Not even close. I challenge you to try it in anything over 5 years old
@@cesaralfredom 94 blazer 😂 just took them off not long ago went somewhat smoothly but they do break very easily
I was wondering why he was going thru all that work when he could have just pulled up the grey tabs lol. Seems he didn’t understand how the connector worked so he found a way to jimmy it off with the locking tabs still on and blamed GMC lol.
@@cesaralfredomJust pulled them off a 12 year old Equinox, no issues. Obviously the older the car, the more brittle the plastic from all the heating and cooling cycles, just be careful and you can get them off without damaging them.
I have a 2013 with 176,000 miles on it! Just replaced the intake solenoid. Moved the white tabs up, squeezed the top, pulled the connectors right off. Hello from NE Montana. 10 miles from Canada. @@cesaralfredom
Great video my friend, very clear and descriptive. I especially like "GM engineers are scumbags" LOL...
These cars are notorious for mass oil consumption causing catalytic converter to get sludged up with the excess burning of oil in the exhaust as well as the cats failures as well. When the cats get clogged from the M.O.C. it causes these solenoids to gather the coffee sludge and fail. Mine has 135K on it and I'm changing them for the 4th time. We had a recall for this issue and GM honored the warranty and rebuild the engine to no avail. Same M.O.C. problem again, same cat problems and same burned up solenoids.
I've had my terrain about 10 years now, just about learned everything about it in that time matter, but them VVT cylnoids are crucial, just make sure you change the oil around 20% oil life, don't wait til it gets to 0% & you won't have that problem with them.any questions reach out to me hope I can help out😁✌
Mine went bad at 50k! Even with oil changes and early maintenance. Thanks for the vid
Great video
Replaced the exh side with Autozone unit-same code
Went with oem ac Delco same code
The intake side blinks with the test light but not the exhaust side?
SO ON THE CLIP TO THE CONNECTOR IF YOU SLIDE THE GREY PART UP YOU CAN THEN REMOVE THE CLIP BY HAND NO TOOL NEEDED
Thanks for the video, one thing I've learned from this video and owning the same motor. They are extremely problematic!
Dude well done, very thorough and I am going to give this a go and hopefully fixes my codes. Thank you!
The gray part on the plug is a locking tab that can be pulled up the get the connector to release.
Great video bro, really helped me save a few extra dollars instead of taking it to the shop. Car might be one of the easier to work on.. now up next for me is front cat, mid cat and muffler😩
Thank you so much! Your video is so perfect and excellent that I think I'm even willing to try it. So detailed in the video was spot on. 😊
Thank you very much for this video: very clear, thorough and straightforward!
The white part on the top of the plug is the lock. You need to pull it up then the lock can be pushed in to pull of the plug. I do like your method. Maybe less chance of breaking the clip.
Thanks. One of the best automotive videos I've seen. good video, good sound,good explanation.
Thank you!! Changed it out easily in 5min. Appreciate it
Dude awesome video, helped me do a swap I didn’t even know how in less than 30 min. Would’ve been quicker but I don’t read comments and fought that clip with my right angle pick for some time
Thanks
I'll replace both of mine this summer.
Man you saved me a lot of time with this good video and explanation. Thank you
Thanks for the video. I could not get the plugs off. Thanks for the tip on right hand pic
Thanks for this...hoping it worked but just did this on my 2016 terrain and so far so good. Was getting p0010 and 11.
How did you know to change it? what problems your GMC was having? mines is acting up. I have a 2015 Gmc Terrain
@@LakissaJ started idling really rough when I would come to a stop sign and when I'd give it gas to go it would stall. Once an engine light came on I got a code reader which when I researched it I was led to this. It was the only symptoms I was having. When I took it to the shop they wanted to charge me to take the engine apart and start looking around. Figured I'd start with this and go from there. Seemed to work but I ended up trading in the vehicle before I started having more issues
It idles but I still don’t know know but it’s saying, I need the timing chain Change
Your video is really helpful. I got the job done on the exhaust solenoid, but however lol the intake solenoid won't unscrew. Did some idiot weld it down & is there someway to unscrew it?
When you say won't unscrew, are you referring to the 10mm fastener that holds the solenoid to the head? or the solenoid won't come out of the head?
really great step by step.. hopefully it fixes my p0014 code.. regardless seems like you should change these anyways..
My 2015 only has 50000 miles. The codes showed up after having the car serviced (oil change). No idle or performance issues, just the codes.
You should have pushed up on the lock and then you could just push in on the clip and it comes right off
Wow! Great video, and the tip about the pick was priceless
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Changed the plugs while I was tackling the valves. 👏👏
This video was so helpful , I'm a single woman and think I may could just handle this myself. I'm kinda handy and good with following directions. But could you tell me about how long it took you to do this in real time. Please and thank you!
Thank you so much! Very helpful and easy to follow!
I removed the solenoid first and it made removing the socket a breeze.
Great video, thanks so much for creating it. Made this job so easy, appreciate the tip for removing the connectors.
Nice video ...!
Same car, same codes, I changed both solenoides but the same codes persists...
No other different codes add..
What could be ?
Any idea ??
Thanks !
Great video.. my car just threw this code and i got the same make and year. So ill get my parts from rock auto and give it a shot. Thanks!
Edit: mine didnt have gunk built up like the one in the vid but i replaced both and the hard knocking went away, runs real quiet now.
That's where I get my parts from.
You pop off the white locking clip on the solenoids and then you can push the locking clip with your thumb and it pops off. Also if you are doing this to get your check engine light off, do not erase the code. Just start the car and let it run for a minute, then shut it off and let it sit for 2 minutes then restart it and let it run for another minute and shut it off and wait for 2 minutes again and the 3rd time you restart it your check engine light should be off. Now your car will pass inspection without you having to wait for all the other parameters to reset to pass inspection or wasting gasoline on doing the drive cycles to set all the parameters.
Did your engine/transmission have to relearn the parts? That’s the feedback I see on Amazon. Thanks! Great video!
The e85 gas builds excessive carbon especially with the high pressure fuel pump
The exhaust & intake connections are different, you can not get them crossed.
Hello from north east Montana.
10 miles from the Canadian border.
Thank you so much! Great video. I ended up tightening the bolt on the new actuator too much and it broke off! (Which meant another RUclips video to fix that!). Much appreciated.
Great job and clean presentation!
Very good instructions, Iam confident that i can replace my sensor.Thanks
You got this
You don't need to pick to remove the connector. Push the black tab and it comes right off with your fingers.
Just did this mines was reversed the exhaust solenoid was in front and the intake was in the back..does it matter which side they are on as long as the connectors go to the proper solenoid
A paint can opener works great for popping off the tabs.
Great job did you have a knocking noise or did it cut off?
Can I just spray with cleaner the exhaust solenoid?
Perfect instructions. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
@@OldSoulMillennial I replaced both intake and exhaust solenoids on my son's 2012 GMC Terrain 2.4L, a week ago, then cleared the code. Unfortunately, the check engine light came back on a few days later while he was driving. When I see him this weekend, I'll check for the code, but I'm suspecting it will be P0014 again. If so, any suggestions about looking further? Thank you.
Thanks for the video... super simple and everything worked. Thanks for the links to the parts!!
I think you mean right angle pick?
It works with left hand too !
Also the "s" is silent on debris it's usually da bree
But thanks this was helpful ...
did it run crappy, less power when the solenoids when bad and engine light came on?
I'm not a mechanic but because of your awesome video I really had no issues. However when I started the engine the check engine light did not go off. Can you please tell me why? Do I need to get auto zone to clear the codes? Or is there something elsi that is wrong that I need to address.
This is covered in the video
Thanks for the video ,my friend!👊👊👊
No problem 👍
I had these replaced a few years ago. Car is starting to have a same issue again. Could the replacement ones I put in go bad after only 30k miles.
@@MrRenken They can absolutely go bad, especially if you use cheap aftermarket ones like I did. Usually there will be an engine code. Also, there are screens on the solenoids that tend to get plugged up.
@@OldSoulMillennial Ok thanks. I just ordered a code reader from amazon, I'll to see what it says before I go buy some new ones and replace again.
Are the exhaust solenoid and intake solenoid the same exact part?
No, they are slightly different parts
I replaced these. Now when I put the car into drive the exhaust sounds really loud and check engine still on. Any suggestions?
These parts are now $46.00 for each… at least in northern Michigan what’s the price else where the same or are we just getting screwed in the north?
the pick is not needed. you release the white safety retainer by pulling it up. and the push the black tab down. releasing the tab he used the pick on. its most likely going to break if you force the tab up without releasing the white safety tab. other than that i have no comment. good video good information. oil change every 6k is a good idea. not 8 or 9k.
It is impossible to screw up the electrical connectors to the solenoids and put them on the wrong one. If you look inside the connectors (or the solenoids) you can see that one looks like a rectangle and the other looks like a rectangle with a rounded side so it looks like a hut. That being said, it is extremely easy to put the solenoids in the wrong spot so only do one at a time and triple check that you put the correct one in the correct spot by looking at the socket on the solenoid you are replacing and compare it to the replacement solenoid. They need to match.
Thank you, I was just wondering this myself. Mine were changed a couple of months ago and now the P0014 is back on and the car seems to keep wanting to stop. Should i order these again and replace them?
Yup!
i replaced both the intake and exhaust solenoids but now im only getting a code for the intake. do you think it could be a bad connection? when i drive the car, i have to press on the gas a little more firmly than usual just so it doesnt just randomly stalls on me. 2012 gmc terrain. please help 😢
Could be anything. Clear the codes, once the car stalls, check codes again. If you are still getting the exhaust solenoid code, you may have a bad connection or a bad part.
Did you disconnect the battery first
Some dust got into my exhaust selenoid and now my car is shutting off and shaking so bad on idle, could it be cus of the dust and if so how do I clean the socket?
Do you have any engine codes? How much dust? Where did the dust enter? Was it actually dust or sand/dirt?
😂 people walking into harbor freight, asking for right hand pick ...
Water in the oil makes it sludgy. These cars have a water pump assembly in the crank case.
You may have had a failing (leaky) water pump contaminating the oil. YIKES!
Any chance you have the sound recorded of the problem?
Unfortunately no, but I would recommend that you read your engine codes.
Thanks for the detailed video!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video thank you
just to help anyone who is tackling this job rather than using a pick if you remove the grey lock on the top of the connector they come right off.
So after replacing both the VVT solenoid valves, When I try to start the car it is really rough it kinda starts for a second but stalls or is crazy noisy. Only way I can explain is is sounds like it is not running in sync (if that makes sense) Then there are times it is trying to crank but doesn't turn the motor over completely. Is there some way it could of threw the timing off on it?
That motor is known to crack the timing chain tensioner and skip timing. Always check your oil with that motor to because they are known to burn oil, so this all could happen from low oil
Did this on my wife's 2012 GMC Terrain SLT 2.4 Ecotec. That engine sucks. I need to install an oil catch can.
Good afternoon friend OldSoulMillenial
My 2011 GMC Terrain has the following problem: A couple of days ago I had the timing chains and tensioner replaced. The next day they gave it to me, when I was parked at a red light, the revolutions dropped to zero. In the end it turned off. I had it scanned and I got code P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance/Range Problem-Advance Overrange (Bank 1) What would be due to the engine dying at 0 RPM while running? lit friend?
As with all the ecotec 2.5s, I expect your timing chain wore out and ate it's guides and tensioners. Have you found that the be the case yet?
I'm still getting the P0013 after replacing the solenoids. The funny thing is that I can feel the improvements. The car idles and accelerates way better. There used to be a slight hesitation when accelerating and the car almost stalled on my wife a few times. The crazy thing is that the solenoids were replaced during the recall about three years ago, but it looks like they already went bad. Which is why I changed them out. I just need to figure out how to get the check engine light to clear.
Did you clear the code with a scan tool?
@@OldSoulMillennial I forgot about that and will try it later today.
I was able to clear the codes and my terrain passed smog. So, I'm very happy about that. My gas mileage seems better now to.
Good afternoon friend!
My 2011 GMC Terrain has the following problem: A couple of days ago I had the timing chains and tensioner replaced. The next day they gave it to me, when I was parked at a red light, the revolutions dropped to zero. Finally the engine died. I had it scanned and I got code P0011 Intake Camshaft Position System Performance/Range Problem-Advance Overrange (Bank 1) What would be due to the engine dying at 0 RPM while running? lit friend?
First thing I would do, is take it back to the mechanic that did the timing chain job. It's possible he/she forgot to plug in the solenoid or perhaps damaged the solenoid.
@@OldSoulMillennial Isn't it the camshaft actuator that is failing? or the mechanical high pressure fuel pump? Or even the solenoids as you say friend...
Excellent video easy task when you explain it like you did, Thanks for your help!
Glad it helped!
I was getting the error code P0010 for my 2014 gmc terrain, and replaced both solenoids truck sounds so much better, and engine light it out, rides nice... Although I have no warning light on, on the dash I run the diagnostic test and still have the error code popped up... Is this normal, should it clear over time??
This is normal. The code is no longer an "active" code and is basically a stored "passive" code. Over time it should disappear. I would recommend you clear the code manually with a scanner. Optional, but recommended.
@@OldSoulMillennial Thank You
Slide the grey tab up before you break the connectors amd 9 thousand miles for a L/o/f is way to long, I don't care what kind of oil you are using. The condensation is normal for those engines , nothing will stop that from happening
Does this cause reduced engine power
Potentially...