Bruuuuuh...... you just saved me a GRIP!! THANK YOOOOOOOU!!!😅 Firestone was trying 2 bust my head 2 the white meat! $118 for the diagnostic test alone. I went 2 autozone and they did it for free and now I'm smooth sailing!😁
just wanted to say a great big "thank you" for this video! it was a wonderful feeling to actually watch an auto repair video that was EXACTLY like my vehicle. I do not like working on vehicles because it is never as "easy" as the parts store employees or many of the videos online say! once again thank you!!!
Thank you for showing how those connectors come off the solenoids! I had the exact same problem as you in the video- connectors would not pull off until I removed the locking tabs completely.
My 15 Equinox showed P0011 code, changed the intake solenoid and manually cleared code. Engine started easy and sounded smooth and I drove it around the block with no issues. I have 5k on the oil but its synthetic and looks clean and is full. The next longer drive will see if the problem solved. Thank you for a great video.
Thank Sir my Equinox threw a engine code. It was the same thing. Bought my Equinox new in 2016. I've always changed my oil with Mobile1 5w30 I will replace these two parts myself. Thanks again!
because of a screw up on my part, my connector needed to be replaced (exhaust) . I've been searching for hours try to find the color coding on the connector. Thanks to your video, (at 2:21) a clear view helped me out! I figured the Chevrolet $65 connector would have the same colors as my old one LOL. You guys have no idea of how many images, videos and even a subscription to Alldata got me nowhere. I've been kicking myself for not being mindful of a simple two wire plug. (note to self) take more photos and don't take $h%T for granted. peace
I advise folks to do this repair yourself if you can. It's a simple repair. Make sure you get quality parts. I had to have it done at a repair shop due to my health and it cost $700 for parts and labor. No way in Hell is that a reasonable price. Anyone with basic skills and tools can do this in under an hour. Watch several youTube videos and you'll know all you need to do this easily and safely.
Thank you for making videos like this. I'm a single mother, and my 2015 Chevy Equinox check engine light came on with this code, and it's been stalling out on me. I bought the parts from O'Reilly, and they actually have the intake and exhaust labeled on each box, so that should help. I've never worked on a car of any sorts, but I was going to try to do this. I'm just very scared I'm going to mess it up.
Saving this video right after I bought this car. Heard this was a common issue, so now I will know for IF the time comes. This is probably my biggest fear with the Equinox. Thanks so much for making this vid!
Fingers crossed! Ya I know what you mean. This motor characteristically sludges up, so it's harder to stop the sludge compared to most motors. The best thing you can do to try slowing it down, use synthetic engine oil and change at 3k miles 😃🔧
Thanks for this! I had these codes show up, and my Captiva is stalling at idle, - I've just bought a pair of these online, and now know how to replace - Thanks again.
Glad I could help! Good luck with your Captiva. If they are dirty make sure and flush the engine oil and then change the engine oil if you can to try to keep the new ones clean as long as possible. I hope that does the trick. 😃🔧🔧
I got both solenoids for $18 at Amazon's. Both matched even gray and black. When changing the oil filter don't skip to replace O ring provided with the new oil filter cartridge,. The O ring sits around the filter cover.
@@EasyFixShaun Update: Removed mine and cleaned them really good. They didn't look too bad on the outside. I hosed them down with brake cleaner then did some function checks and tested the resistance also. Everything checked out just fine so I reinstalled them. Good as new. Of course now I have a pair of solenoids on the shelf for future use. Your video was invaluable!! Save me hundreds probably in time, cash, and aggravation. Even with $100 buck in new parts lol. A++
This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever done, and this video made it that much easier. Got rid of the P0010 code\CEL and stuttering immediately. Odd thing was, the screen was completely clean, but there must have been something inside the actuator. Brake cleaner fixed that.
About six months ago, I got the Engine light, pulled up an intake sensor too advanced code, replaced the intake solenoid, fixed! Now, I have an exhaust P0014 code, cleaned solenoid, no good. Replaced ex solenoid, still no good! No engine light, but the P0014 code remains; now what?
Very concise video. Not sure why my intake solenoid failed since the engine oil and filter are changed regularly. Mobil 1 5-30 is the only oil used since the first oil change from the factory.
Is the oil full at all times? Low oil can accelerate sludging very quickly because the oil cools the engine and when there is less of it, it turns to sludge from overheating. These engines characteristically sludge up more than typical. Low oil level and/or extended oil change intervals will increase that. I like your 4k interval on synthetic. I shoot for 3k on synthetic myself, but 4k happens on occasion and i believe is acceptable, as long as oil level is full at all times. Anything over 4k/synthetic/full is asking for trouble in my opinion. Oil picks up ash from burning fossil fuels and gasoline burns as ashy as the day it was introduced 😃🔧
Great video , filming, editing, and tutorial. For me I hate to see a dirty engine , PCV and air filter. So, when you top off a cover take a good look for rat poop. If you see some make sure to inspect the wires everywhere because this can trigger a code . Those pesky varmints like a warm place to sleep 😊
Well explained. On older cars with concern about sludging I've used seafoam added to oil, with a couple of quick hot oil changes to try and loosen sidewall deposits. It is not easy to get crap out when this kind of thing starts to happen.
Hot oil changes are key to trying to get all the old oil out. Flushing is a really good idea if the intervals were too long or the oil was consistently run low. The oil will sludge up quick under normal conditions on the these. Severe conditions lead to major problems. 😀
@@EasyFixShaun when you say flushing, is it an oil change and then drop the oil and change again say in couple hours of driving or buying an engine oil flush product to add in and then run engine for a few minutes and drop the oil? I never had luck with engine oil flush products. Seems to be an engine will be failing not long after.
There are many ways you can do it. A simple change X2 is helpful at the least. I usually add a quart or two of atf fluid depending on the situation. It has a very high detergent level in it. Then drain and fill again. Then do it once more and refill will engine oil and new filter. It is no guarantee of getting stuff out of an engine. But it sure makes me feel better 😀🔧🔧
My ex- boyfriend bought me a can of seafoam. I just found it unused in my backseat. I think he told me to add it to my gas tank. Is that correct or should I put it in the oil?
Thanks for the video. I clicked on the amazon link for both, added my car info for comparability and apparently it’s not the right kind. I have a ‘17 equinox LS.
Glad the video helped. If the link doesn't work on the vehicle confirmation, you can research for you specific vehicle once in there and that should take you to the one you need. Some have slightly different solenoid parts. I listed the link for the vehicle that I was working on, but I was hoping that link would get you going in the right direction. Let me know if you still can't find the part you need 😃🔧
I just added another comment. Regarding the amazon search, your advice helped. Received them today and replaced the old ones. As I mentioned in today’s comment, it runs better but the car shakes when idling/at red light. This is a first.
The hardest part is removing the wire connectors, but once you know to pull the gray part off first, it's easy. I had replaced bith with Amazon parts, but I'm not sure about the quality so I just replaced again with acdelco. Will see if any change
Why did you put full synthetic in it? My mechanic just showed me a TSB that shows to put synthetic blend into it? We just did the oil change today and on the way home it stalled out. I had been using Pennzoil Full Synthetic until today and never had the problem.
Synthetic is better than conventional. If there is a TSB then go with that. On a side note, part of the problem with these solenoids is that sludge gets in the engine oil. Synthetic can help with that. Synthetic is superior in my opinion in every way and in every application. It is an easy substitute. I did not know about the TSB 😀🔧
So I have a similar issue with my 2017 equinox but I see oil seeping thru the exhaust solenoid should I replace both or just the one that’s leaking? No codes no check engine light. Thanks for the feedback
That would be up to you. I would probably just replace the bad one, unless you think they both are ready for replacement because of dirty oil, high mileage, or they commonly go bad on your model and type of vehicle 😃
I just installed a catch can on the equinox and my intake box had a bunch of brown oil and moisture. Now for my car I run a dual catch can setup as I have a big turbo and it will suck all that into the cans. I’ve had to replace this sensor once and I change the oil in schedule with full synthetic and I never reuse the filter.
Nice work! Oil is soooo important. Changing it regularly is more important now than it ever has been because of all the variable valve timing, direct injection, multiple displacement engines, turbo setups, and just overall sensitive engines being pushed to their limits of efficiency. If anyone wants to know my opinion, change oil at 3k miles. Stretch to 4k on occasion with synthetic only. Make sure oil is full at all times. This is the only thing you can do to put the odds in your favor for long engine life and check engine lamps. I do not recommend anything else for changing oil on any on road engine 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun that’s the best advice man and on my Subaru I change it every 2,000 miles and the oil I use is motul so you can’t find it at the local auto parts stores unfortunately but it’s one of the best oils to use. So I follow another guy and he takes these VVT sensors out and sprays them and cleans them so do you recommend that as well?
Nice man. Motul is excellent oil. Cleaning them can work a lot of times. If the screen does its job and stops sludge and caught early enough usually the solenoid is still good. Most times it's a flip of the coin though because by the time you clean them, fault codes are already set and the dash light is on 😀🔧
I was told by two repair places today that when I receive these codes the timing chain is bad and the engine will be destroyed unless the timing chain is replaced. They said the solenoids are usually never a problem.
They may be right. Hard to say. The solenoids are the easiest snd cheapest to replace parts vs timing chains. It is a weird problem and hard to pinpoint sometimes. Like a rough running engine, sometimes its not a horrible idea to try the cheapest repair and parts like spark plugs at first. Especially if they have many miles on them. Doesn't always work. But may be the first step if you can not diagnose with equipment. I hope that helps. 😀😀
I like to put some engine oil on them to aid in popping them back in and sealing them. They work with engine oil so it is the perfect lube. You could use petroleum jelly also 😃
Could p0133 be the same issue? Its the obly code that pops up. No echaust leak both 02 sensors chamged last week and the suv still stalls. I wanna make sure it could be these sensors you changed before i purchase and its not that. Thank you
Hard to say from my end. It sounds like an oxygen sensor circuit problem. Could be the sensor or the wiring or the computer most likely. It could be something worth trying to pull the sensors out and at least clean them. Maybe you get lucky! 😃
@@EasyFixShaun Had the same issue so I followed your instructions with even the jiggle jiggle wiggle wiggle and it all worked out. Thanks. You have a subscriber now
Some dust got into my exhaust selenoid and now my car is shutting off and shaking so bad on idle, could it be cus of the dust and if so how do I clean the socket?
Most of that dust may have gotten caught in the screen for the solenoid. I would remove and clean off at the solenoid and give it a try. If it got sucked past the screen, a new solenoid might not be a bad idea to try also 😃🔧
Thanks for the reply the thing is that I replaced them with new ones, then this happen, the I pulled them out and they were clean, but same problem, I just put the old ones in and car stopped doing it haha idk
Got Codes P000D P000B and P0011 on my 2011 Buick Enclave I was going to change them but I see something about timing chain any information will help car won't start right now
Her 2016 Equinox 2.4L starts for like 3-6 seconds then stalls. Does it sound like these solenoids are dirty? No check engine light. I originally thought my fuel pump took a crap. I hope it's dirty solenoids.
They might work just fine. I have installed quite a few with no problems so far. There was one commenter that did not have good luck with the cheap ones. They are relatively cheap to give a shot in my opinion. But oem parts are the best no doubt. Whatever works for you. I hope that helps 😃🔧
My Chevrolet Equinox 2010 had an Engine light on, and when diagnosed, the codes are below: P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position System Performance P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 2 The machanic told me If I don't fix, The car will consume more gas. My questions: 1)If I don't fix them, Will there be any damage to other parts of the car ? 2) How long can I drive before I can afford to fix them? 3) what are the costs to fix those two codes ? Thanks a bunch
Hard to say how long you can go. I would call the shop you paid to diagnose and ask what they think about that stuff to try to clarify. I hope that helps 😀
Dude I've got some weird stuff going on. I have 4 cam actuators solenoids, 3 of them are delivering 12 volts The other one has no voltage. Any info much appreciated
Sorry to hear that. If the lamp can't be cleared you may have more going on that may need more in depth diagnosis. Were you able to clear it afterwards with a scan tool?
So I replace the solenoids and have not driven the car yet. It has been a while since oil change so I am going to do the oil change at home, would you recommend draining and replacing oil before starting the vehicle again
Yes. I would get out as much old oil as possible. In a perfect world I would even flush it and change at 1k miles again. The sludge oil in the screen is from dirty oil, low oil level, or both. Plus these engines just seem to sludge up even in perfect conditions. Kind of a bummer they do that. There are a lot of sensitive things that run on the engine oil 😃🔧
I have a problem if anyone can help I replaced the intake which was easy but when I replaced the exhaust it went in but the screw won't tighten all the way down any help why it's doing that?
hello I have code p0014 on my hyundai accent 2016. the check engine light is on the car consumes lot of fuel and car makes noise. I therefore changed the engine oil and the filters, the noise continues and the engine check is still present. I removed the two selonoide clean and I tested with the multimeter 8.5 ohm each . Theses valeurs ares normal ? . the connectors also 9V each. I noticed that the two selnonoide in their middle there is a filter but they are drilled, can the hole still create this anomaly? Thank you for answering me
You could try cleaning them out and see if that helps. It is worth a shot if you already have them out and you don't have new parts yet. As far as the ohm testing that is fantastic, i don't have the value for new hyundai solenoids for your car. But if you can find that it would help you make a choice to order me much easier. I hope that helps 😀🔧
I got a p0013 code on my 2016 equinox..I changed both intake and exhaust solenoids. But engine light is still on..not sure what the problem is.. any ideas?
Ouch that sucks. Might need to drill and tap it unless you can get it out with an "easy out". Theres not cut and dry way to do bolt extraction. You need several plans to do it usually. So have a plan a, b, c, and d. Hopefully plan a works 🔧😃
Pep Boys in Las Vegas quoted my mother $500 in labor alone to replace these solenoids. Needless to say, when I talked with the service writer, I tore her a new you-know-what. I then drove to Las Vegas from Columbus, Ohio to visit a little and bang this job out myself. How do these people sleep at night?
Hi recently had a problem stopped at a local shop to diagnose they checked these said they was ok found I had a bad coil so replace that 2 weeks later I happen to notice they didn’t plug these back up so I plugged them up and my car was running so bad stalling so I unplugged the back again and my car runs good so I left just the back one unplugged any suggestions what could be the cause? Should I replace that back one or could it be the o2 sensor or cam shaft sensor?
I am not sure what is going on there exactly. I do know that the engine computer will run ok with critical sensors left unplugged. It will run in what is known as "theoretical map mode". That is a pre-programmed fuel map that doesn't adapt or learn based on fuel trims, temps, rpm etc. It is rigid. It is designed to get you home if you loose a critical sensor. The valve solenoids may fall under the criteria on your engine depending on how the factory designed it. I am not sure about that though. The check engine lamp should be on if the sensors were unplugged. Checking codes would be a great place to try and sort it out 😃🔧
Great vid but for some seating the seal can be a problem, after my son tried seating it by turning down the bolt it still did not seat and broke the bolt .I got a socket that sat on the outer shoulder and gently taped it in hope this helps thanks.
No problem. Glad the video helped. Using the bolt to seat can create a wedge effect and break things for sure. Sorry you had that problem. The best approach is to seat by hand. Once seated then install and tighten bolt. The orings can be difficult to seat sometimes. The tolerances are fairly tight to create a good seal once seated. I usually try to lubricate the oring and that usually helps make it easier to seat 😀🔧
Hi, I had the p0016 code had air filter on the print out at auto zone. Car shop did the parts. They said the oil was dirty, Will that make it not work correctly keep engine light on ? They reset code. Light came back on. I am going to get a oil change, but will THAT fix the problem, or I need to just get me a TOYOTA? lol
Yes. Dirty and/or low oil causes lots of problems, codes are one of them. I always recommend 3k-4k miles maximum oil change intervals with synthetic. Keep oil full at all times during the 3k-4k interval. Many people are going way beyond those intervals and make matters worse by not checking and filling oil level along the way. Do not follow manufacturers recommended intervals here!! Causes are sludge from running long oil changes and/or low oil levels. These cause a lot of issues, leading up to engine failure. The oil change + a quart of oil along the way are wayyyyy cheaper than an engine replacement 😀🔧
Sometimes an auto parts store can check and clear the code. Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will clear the codes. I put links in the description for a cheap code reader. Some are $16.99 on amazon.
My car is a 2012 Chevrolet Aveo. The vehicle has a P0011 malfunction. There's a mistake in timing, it's being fixed, but it's broken again. The Timing Belt has changed, but it hasn't recovered. Do you think Camshaft gear is broken? Would you please help me. I'm reaching you from Turkey
Hard to say from here what is going on with your car. I would recommend letting the mechanic correct the mistake if possible. Sorry you are having so many problems with your car.
I just realized this may be the issue in my car. How long can I drive around with this happening? I know I can follow your guide this weekend but that's a few days away.
Could either or both of these not cause a code but cause a random intermittent stall when the car is started after sitting a day or so? Bought it used dropped the oil it wasnt in great condition. Plugs air filter etc changed throttle body clean. Runs fine other than the intermittent stall. Trim readings look good. Maf readings are good throttle sensor readings are good.
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you my man. I have new sensors on the way today. Gonna swap em out and see what happens. Anything a basic cheap obdii would pickup on a live scan thst might shed some light? I hate these intermittent things. It won't do it whenever I'm around/with her and I don't keep a scanner in the car ready to go. If you give it a little gas it shudders and sputters a bit but is usually fine. And if you don't and it acts up. Turn key off then on it behaves. Fuel pump etc seem strong and runs well for what it is minus this nagging intermittent thing. Clearly I've got the big three air fuel and spark so it's gotta be some electronic voodoo. My initial thought was poor maintenance and I wasn't wrong did the majors so I'm down to these sensors or just setting it on fire.
@@Rich70480 These solenoids are very sensitive to sludge and dirty oil. In my experience it is always caused from running engine oil below the full line and from long oil change intervals. Whatever the cause the culprit is dirty oil. Otherwise these little solenoids will last a long long time 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Yeah I don't know the history bought it used but it looked like plugs were original or close to it. Engine air filter was swapped at some point but still filthy oil wasn't terrible but also could have been changed quick to sell it. Cabin filter looked like an engine sir filter from the 90s that was never changed. I'll post an update after I pul and swap the sensors.
@@EasyFixShaun you got a patreon or something brother? I owe ya at least a beer. 10 minutes most of that finding my tools. Garage at home is a mess. All done. Idle smooth as silk. No shudder sputter yet. Both old ones covered in oil. Saved and gonna clean em in case these aftermarkets fail. You the man dawg.
@@EasyFixShaun I’m not sure how to clear the codes. It sounds crazy and simple for you but to someone who doesn’t know it sounds complicated. May I suggest, if another video of this is made maybe adding the clearing of the code. Lol I changed these two solenoids twice and now for a third time and I didn’t clear the code. I was told that’s why I have to keep changing them out.🤷🏻♂️ The video was so very helpful to me and I appreciate you.
Should do the trick usually. If it doesn't the usual scan tool method would be needed. Most times any parts store like O'rileys/autozone/advanced auto parts can do it 😀🔧
Great video. My parents have a 2015 Equinox with the Ecotec engine that has been exhibiting this stalling phenomenon. They have not had the check engine light come on and I used my basic scan tool to look for codes. There have not been any set or pending codes. The oil gets changed every spring and fall as they only drive about 2000 miles a year. Can you give any suggestions?
Ok. Well clean oil, full oil, and regular oil changes are cheap insurance. So that’s great. For the amount of work if takes I would pull them out and check and clean. When dirty they can cause stalling with no light on. They probably aren’t quite bad enough to set a code yet.
“Exhibiting a stalling phenomenon” Mmm🤔, I gotta say that it’s the first time I’ve heard that as a description for a condition. Not hating, but rather quite the opposite with such eloquent description🙂
Very very similar situation here.. exact engine in my 2019 polaris slingshot. The 2.4 ecotech.. 2 weeks ago engine light illuminated & sluggish or loss of power & error code p2091 " cam phaser x Driver circuit open/high".. I'm sure codes do not match because polaris used a marine grade obd system. But we have 2.4 GM ecotec & I'm curious if this possibly my issue as well? Engine has 48,000 easy miles. My questions are, is this "cam phaser x circuit open/high" on screen error pertaining too the solenoids? And if so, does the X stand for exhaust solenoid? Syn oil changes every 4,500 miles @EasyFixShaun
I can definitely do this, thank you for the instruction! Just wondering, this code came up and had been on and off for a few days since I ran out of gas even though I stay consistent with oil changes. Would that affect the actuators do you think?
Running out of gas shouldn't affect them. But if the engine was spitting and sputtering maybe it tripped the code for some reason. Hard to tell. You could clear the code and try starting and driving again before you clean or replace them 😃🔧
I got this code after running on empty gas. After fill up, the car stalled pulling away from the pump. Replaced both of these, all fixed now. Too coincidental that we both got this issue after an out of gas situation. Even though I cant see how the gas could have caused this!
@@benjamind5488 I shouldn't cause the code. But if the solenoids were questionable, it's possible that is all it took to finish them. Chugging and rough running while running out of gas isn't a normal condition. While that was happening the solenoids may have been trying to compensate and it coincidentally finished them off. Best guess 😃🔧
Mi TERRAIN hoy prendió ese código después de quedarme con bajo nivel de gasolina , estoy por examinar los selenoides. Mi duda es podrían funcionar limpiandolos o tendría que reemplazar??
Funny thing, my ‘14 was just filled at the pump when the engine light came on. Car would start, but as soon as I put it in gear, it immediately died. Coincidence?
You can clean out the screen that surrounds the end of the solenoid once you remove them. It only takes a little bit of oil sludge on them to set the code. Use a solvent. I show it briefly in the video as an optional way to repair or try and repair. It usually is a flip of the coin if it works or not. Pretty good odds 😃🔧
*_New sway bar link video_* ruclips.net/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/видео.html
Bruuuuuh...... you just saved me a GRIP!! THANK YOOOOOOOU!!!😅 Firestone was trying 2 bust my head 2 the white meat! $118 for the diagnostic test alone. I went 2 autozone and they did it for free and now I'm smooth sailing!😁
You're welcome!! Glad it worked well for you 😀😀
Huge thank you! So much cheaper than getting it diagnosed and fixed at a mechanic and so easy. Thanks for saving us a bunch of money and time.
Glad it helped! Thank you so very much. Makes a huge difference 😀😀
just wanted to say a great big "thank you" for this video! it was a wonderful feeling to actually watch an auto repair video that was EXACTLY like my vehicle. I do not like working on vehicles because it is never as "easy" as the parts store employees or many of the videos online say! once again thank you!!!
No problem glad to help 😃😃
PERFECT VIDEO!!!!
Lighting was PERFECT in order to watch video. Directions were so thorough as well as showing part numbers, etc. THANK YOU
Excellent! Thank you. Glad to help 😀🔧
Thank you for showing how those connectors come off the solenoids! I had the exact same problem as you in the video- connectors would not pull off until I removed the locking tabs completely.
You're welcome! Thanks for sharing 😃
My 15 Equinox showed P0011 code, changed the intake solenoid and manually cleared code. Engine started easy and sounded smooth and I drove it around the block with no issues. I have 5k on the oil but its synthetic and looks clean and is full. The next longer drive will see if the problem solved. Thank you for a great video.
Excellent. Glad to help. I hope it works well for you 😀🔧
How did you clear the code? I'm struggling to find any good videos or website explaining how to do so for a 2013 Equinox. Thanks!
I have an engine analyzer. They don’t cost that much.
Thank Sir my Equinox threw a engine code.
It was the same thing.
Bought my Equinox new in 2016.
I've always changed my oil with Mobile1 5w30 I will replace these two parts myself.
Thanks again!
I love mobile one also! Can't go wrong there. Good luck 🤞
because of a screw up on my part, my connector needed to be replaced (exhaust) . I've been searching for hours try to find the color coding on the connector. Thanks to your video, (at 2:21) a clear view helped me out! I figured the Chevrolet $65 connector would have the same colors as my old one LOL. You guys have no idea of how many images, videos and even a subscription to Alldata got me nowhere. I've been kicking myself for not being mindful of a simple two wire plug.
(note to self) take more photos and don't take $h%T for granted. peace
Oh man. I'm sorry that happened. That is a real bummer. Glad to help 😀😀
I advise folks to do this repair yourself if you can. It's a simple repair. Make sure you get quality parts. I had to have it done at a repair shop due to my health and it cost $700 for parts and labor. No way in Hell is that a reasonable price. Anyone with basic skills and tools can do this in under an hour. Watch several youTube videos and you'll know all you need to do this easily and safely.
I am glad it worked for you 😃😃😃
You are very very correct!
You don’t even need skill to do it
Thank you for making videos like this. I'm a single mother, and my 2015 Chevy Equinox check engine light came on with this code, and it's been stalling out on me. I bought the parts from O'Reilly, and they actually have the intake and exhaust labeled on each box, so that should help. I've never worked on a car of any sorts, but I was going to try to do this. I'm just very scared I'm going to mess it up.
Damn they fucked u... they want 340 for me when I called today
Saving this video right after I bought this car. Heard this was a common issue, so now I will know for IF the time comes. This is probably my biggest fear with the Equinox. Thanks so much for making this vid!
Fingers crossed! Ya I know what you mean. This motor characteristically sludges up, so it's harder to stop the sludge compared to most motors. The best thing you can do to try slowing it down, use synthetic engine oil and change at 3k miles 😃🔧
Thanks for this! I had these codes show up, and my Captiva is stalling at idle, - I've just bought a pair of these online, and now know how to replace - Thanks again.
Glad I could help! Good luck with your Captiva. If they are dirty make sure and flush the engine oil and then change the engine oil if you can to try to keep the new ones clean as long as possible. I hope that does the trick. 😃🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Many thanks!
No problem! Happy new year!!😃
I was going to send my wife’s car in for this fix. Thank you for the instruction. I am grateful for your help.
Excellent! They are not bad to repair at all. A little messy maybe. 😀🔧🔧
I got both solenoids for $18 at Amazon's. Both matched even gray and black. When changing the oil filter don't skip to replace O ring provided with the new oil filter cartridge,. The O ring sits around the filter cover.
Thanks for the comment! That is a great call on the o-ring! Wow they are getting cheaper and cheaper on amazon. That is nuts 😃🔧🔧
@@EasyFixShaun would you really trust $18.00 a pair solenoids over OEM? I think that's a bridge too far for me..
No i would not. Amazon options are worth trying only because they are easy to install and shipping is quick. Oem is always the best option 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Update: Removed mine and cleaned them really good. They didn't look too bad on the outside. I hosed them down with brake cleaner then did some function checks and tested the resistance also. Everything checked out just fine so I reinstalled them. Good as new. Of course now I have a pair of solenoids on the shelf for future use. Your video was invaluable!! Save me hundreds probably in time, cash, and aggravation. Even with $100 buck in new parts lol. A++
Excellent! I am glad you got it figured out😀🔧
This was one of the easiest repairs I have ever done, and this video made it that much easier. Got rid of the P0010 code\CEL and stuttering immediately. Odd thing was, the screen was completely clean, but there must have been something inside the actuator. Brake cleaner fixed that.
Outstanding! I’m glad it went well for you 😀
Did you have to take the actuator back out? If not, then how did the brake cleaner fox it?
Wether you clean or replace the valves you need to remove 😀🔧🔧
About six months ago, I got the Engine light, pulled up an intake sensor too advanced code, replaced the intake solenoid, fixed!
Now, I have an exhaust P0014 code, cleaned solenoid, no good. Replaced ex solenoid, still no good! No engine light, but the P0014 code remains; now what?
Try replacing the oxygen sensor(s)
Thank you..Going to do this on my wife's equinox today..your video helps me a ton
No problem! Glad to help! Good luck 😀🔧
The exhaust solenoid will usually have a black top, vs. a gray top for the intake. Nice job!
Good eye! Thank you! 😀🔧🔧
Smokin hot vid, thank you for being out there.... 2013 Equinox is running good again..
Thanks a lot!! Glad you got it running 🤓🔧
Very concise video. Not sure why my intake solenoid failed since the engine oil and filter are changed regularly. Mobil 1 5-30 is the only oil used since the first oil change from the factory.
What interval do you change the oil?
@@EasyFixShaun About 4K
Is the oil full at all times? Low oil can accelerate sludging very quickly because the oil cools the engine and when there is less of it, it turns to sludge from overheating. These engines characteristically sludge up more than typical. Low oil level and/or extended oil change intervals will increase that. I like your 4k interval on synthetic. I shoot for 3k on synthetic myself, but 4k happens on occasion and i believe is acceptable, as long as oil level is full at all times. Anything over 4k/synthetic/full is asking for trouble in my opinion. Oil picks up ash from burning fossil fuels and gasoline burns as ashy as the day it was introduced 😃🔧
I just experienced this issue and have been researching the repair. Yours is the best, most detailed and clearly explained. Thank you.
Hey thanks a lot! hope it helps you out😀🔧
This was super helpful, followed exactly and this fixed my issue. Thank you very much.
Outstanding! Im glad it worked out for you.
Just adding to the thanks for this amazing video. An easy job when looking back, but such a great resource. Thanks!
Very welcome! Thank you for taking the time to comment. Helps a ton 😀
Just a tip, GM recommends that you take your finger and lightly coat the O-ring with engine oil before installing the new solenoid.
💯 Great tip! 😃🔧
Great video , filming, editing, and tutorial. For me I hate to see a dirty engine , PCV and air filter. So, when you top off a cover take a good look for rat poop. If you see some make sure to inspect the wires everywhere because this can trigger a code . Those pesky varmints like a warm place to sleep 😊
😂 so true 😀😀
Well explained. On older cars with concern about sludging I've used seafoam added to oil, with a couple of quick hot oil changes to try and loosen sidewall deposits. It is not easy to get crap out when this kind of thing starts to happen.
Hot oil changes are key to trying to get all the old oil out. Flushing is a really good idea if the intervals were too long or the oil was consistently run low. The oil will sludge up quick under normal conditions on the these. Severe conditions lead to major problems. 😀
@@EasyFixShaun when you say flushing, is it an oil change and then drop the oil and change again say in couple hours of driving or buying an engine oil flush product to add in and then run engine for a few minutes and drop the oil? I never had luck with engine oil flush products. Seems to be an engine will be failing not long after.
There are many ways you can do it. A simple change X2 is helpful at the least. I usually add a quart or two of atf fluid depending on the situation. It has a very high detergent level in it. Then drain and fill again. Then do it once more and refill will engine oil and new filter. It is no guarantee of getting stuff out of an engine. But it sure makes me feel better 😀🔧🔧
My ex- boyfriend bought me a can of seafoam. I just found it unused in my backseat. I think he told me to add it to my gas tank. Is that correct or should I put it in the oil?
@@kristinakoltyk8521
Gas tank or pour slowly into brake booster vacuum hose
Thank you man. Followed your steps and problem fixed.
Awsome! Glad to help 😃😃
Good job! Thanks for the shout out too!
Thanks for all the help man!!
Thanks for the video. I clicked on the amazon link for both, added my car info for comparability and apparently it’s not the right kind. I have a ‘17 equinox LS.
Glad the video helped. If the link doesn't work on the vehicle confirmation, you can research for you specific vehicle once in there and that should take you to the one you need. Some have slightly different solenoid parts. I listed the link for the vehicle that I was working on, but I was hoping that link would get you going in the right direction. Let me know if you still can't find the part you need 😃🔧
I just added another comment. Regarding the amazon search, your advice helped. Received them today and replaced the old ones. As I mentioned in today’s comment, it runs better but the car shakes when idling/at red light. This is a first.
@@JorgeTorres-mb7nk try cleaning the throttle body. Very easy to remove and clean thoroughly
The hardest part is removing the wire connectors, but once you know to pull the gray part off first, it's easy. I had replaced bith with Amazon parts, but I'm not sure about the quality so I just replaced again with acdelco. Will see if any change
Excellent! Good luck. The ac deco are the best no doubt. 😃🔧
The Amazon web site states it’s a used part. So, I went to O’Reilly.
$57 with Vet. Discount.
Thank you.. You did a great job,I rreally appreciate the way you explained 👏 👍
So nice of you very welcome 😀
cover your intake as soon as you take off the box. and replace your oil cap too
Not a bad tip at all. I have always been careful to not get debris in those areas 😀
Nice lesson guys ! Thanks a lot
You are welcome!
Why did you put full synthetic in it? My mechanic just showed me a TSB that shows to put synthetic blend into it?
We just did the oil change today and on the way home it stalled out.
I had been using Pennzoil Full Synthetic until today and never had the problem.
Synthetic is better than conventional. If there is a TSB then go with that. On a side note, part of the problem with these solenoids is that sludge gets in the engine oil. Synthetic can help with that. Synthetic is superior in my opinion in every way and in every application. It is an easy substitute. I did not know about the TSB 😀🔧
Excellent! I love the way you explain. Thank you
You're very welcome! Thanks a lot 😀
So I have a similar issue with my 2017 equinox but I see oil seeping thru the exhaust solenoid should I replace both or just the one that’s leaking? No codes no check engine light. Thanks for the feedback
That would be up to you. I would probably just replace the bad one, unless you think they both are ready for replacement because of dirty oil, high mileage, or they commonly go bad on your model and type of vehicle 😃
I just installed a catch can on the equinox and my intake box had a bunch of brown oil and moisture. Now for my car I run a dual catch can setup as I have a big turbo and it will suck all that into the cans. I’ve had to replace this sensor once and I change the oil in schedule with full synthetic and I never reuse the filter.
Nice work! Oil is soooo important. Changing it regularly is more important now than it ever has been because of all the variable valve timing, direct injection, multiple displacement engines, turbo setups, and just overall sensitive engines being pushed to their limits of efficiency. If anyone wants to know my opinion, change oil at 3k miles. Stretch to 4k on occasion with synthetic only. Make sure oil is full at all times. This is the only thing you can do to put the odds in your favor for long engine life and check engine lamps. I do not recommend anything else for changing oil on any on road engine 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun that’s the best advice man and on my Subaru I change it every 2,000 miles and the oil I use is motul so you can’t find it at the local auto parts stores unfortunately but it’s one of the best oils to use. So I follow another guy and he takes these VVT sensors out and sprays them and cleans them so do you recommend that as well?
Nice man. Motul is excellent oil. Cleaning them can work a lot of times. If the screen does its job and stops sludge and caught early enough usually the solenoid is still good. Most times it's a flip of the coin though because by the time you clean them, fault codes are already set and the dash light is on 😀🔧
Great video! I just used it to replace mine. Awesome!!
Glad it helped! 😃
I was told by two repair places today that when I receive these codes the timing chain is bad and the engine will be destroyed unless the timing chain is replaced. They said the solenoids are usually never a problem.
They may be right. Hard to say. The solenoids are the easiest snd cheapest to replace parts vs timing chains. It is a weird problem and hard to pinpoint sometimes. Like a rough running engine, sometimes its not a horrible idea to try the cheapest repair and parts like spark plugs at first. Especially if they have many miles on them. Doesn't always work. But may be the first step if you can not diagnose with equipment. I hope that helps. 😀😀
First mistake is listening to a repair shop. They want more money from you.
That is their job. They get a bad rap though 😂
If you have spark to the plugs and 55psi to the fuel rail but a no start, would that be the vvt solenoids or timing chain?
Hard to say. Sounds like a crank, no start?
Thanks the the video. It was very helpful this morning.
Awsome! No problem 😃🔧
Do.ylu need to lube the o-rings on the new solenoids before reinstalling them?
I like to put some engine oil on them to aid in popping them back in and sealing them. They work with engine oil so it is the perfect lube. You could use petroleum jelly also 😃
Could p0133 be the same issue? Its the obly code that pops up. No echaust leak both 02 sensors chamged last week and the suv still stalls. I wanna make sure it could be these sensors you changed before i purchase and its not that. Thank you
Hard to say from my end. It sounds like an oxygen sensor circuit problem. Could be the sensor or the wiring or the computer most likely. It could be something worth trying to pull the sensors out and at least clean them. Maybe you get lucky! 😃
Thanks for the great breakdown 😁
Any time! Glad to help 😃🔧
Hello, if i choose to spray them down to clean them what would be best to clean them?
I use brake cleaner. Carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner would be my second choice 😀🔧
Nice video but ou forgot to mention to cover the intake with the butterfly valve to keep junk from falling in.
Great point!
Best video about this issue so far but did you have to remove the negative cable from the battery
Thank you! I did that to clear the codes from the computer 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Had the same issue so I followed your instructions with even the jiggle jiggle wiggle wiggle and it all worked out. Thanks. You have a subscriber now
Thank you! I am so glad it worked out for you 😃😃
Some dust got into my exhaust selenoid and now my car is shutting off and shaking so bad on idle, could it be cus of the dust and if so how do I clean the socket?
Most of that dust may have gotten caught in the screen for the solenoid. I would remove and clean off at the solenoid and give it a try. If it got sucked past the screen, a new solenoid might not be a bad idea to try also 😃🔧
Thanks for the reply the thing is that I replaced them with new ones, then this happen, the I pulled them out and they were clean, but same problem, I just put the old ones in and car stopped doing it haha idk
Nice effort. Sometimes cars are stupid like that. Especially with computers. They need a reset many times. Good luck, I hope it works long term 😃🔧
Fixed my son’s equinox the same way
cool! 😃
Got Codes P000D P000B and P0011 on my 2011 Buick Enclave I was going to change them but I see something about timing chain any information will help car won't start right now
Hard to say. Sorry for the late reply. May have some additional things going on.
Her 2016 Equinox 2.4L starts for like 3-6 seconds then stalls. Does it sound like these solenoids are dirty? No check engine light. I originally thought my fuel pump took a crap.
I hope it's dirty solenoids.
I'm not sure. You could try cleaning them first just to see if that helps. Would not cost much to try either😀🔧
Bro I have a chevy equinox 2017 LS
Can I use the same solenoid that you used?
Thank u
I believe they are the exact same. But, here is a kit link for your year, make, and model from amazon 😃🔧
amzn.to/3DLfOAP
Will the cheaper set of two work ok in my 2013 equinox?.It studders when I take off from a light.
They might work just fine. I have installed quite a few with no problems so far. There was one commenter that did not have good luck with the cheap ones. They are relatively cheap to give a shot in my opinion. But oem parts are the best no doubt. Whatever works for you. I hope that helps 😃🔧
My Chevrolet Equinox 2010 had an Engine light on, and when diagnosed, the codes are below:
P0014 Exhaust Camshaft Position System Performance
P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Sensor 2
The machanic told me If I don't fix, The car will consume more gas.
My questions:
1)If I don't fix them, Will there be any damage to other parts of the car ?
2) How long can I drive before I can afford to fix them?
3) what are the costs to fix those two codes ?
Thanks a bunch
Hard to say how long you can go. I would call the shop you paid to diagnose and ask what they think about that stuff to try to clarify. I hope that helps 😀
Dude I've got some weird stuff going on. I have 4 cam actuators solenoids, 3 of them are delivering 12 volts The other one has no voltage. Any info much appreciated
Start with checking fuses and relays. May need further diagnosis with scan tool and electrical pinout testing (dealership is usually best).
engine light is still on and is reading the same code after replacing solenoids, any advice?
Sorry to hear that. If the lamp can't be cleared you may have more going on that may need more in depth diagnosis. Were you able to clear it afterwards with a scan tool?
Thanks for your video super helpful and a blessing!
No problem 😃
We broke one of the clips off inside of the connector. How do we replace it?
Zip tie it in place is the easiest and cheapest way. I have had to do it a few times. Those tiny plastic connector parts break easily 😀🔧
So I replace the solenoids and have not driven the car yet. It has been a while since oil change so I am going to do the oil change at home, would you recommend draining and replacing oil before starting the vehicle again
Yes. I would get out as much old oil as possible. In a perfect world I would even flush it and change at 1k miles again. The sludge oil in the screen is from dirty oil, low oil level, or both. Plus these engines just seem to sludge up even in perfect conditions. Kind of a bummer they do that. There are a lot of sensitive things that run on the engine oil 😃🔧
I have a problem if anyone can help I replaced the intake which was easy but when I replaced the exhaust it went in but the screw won't tighten all the way down any help why it's doing that?
Might be a stripped thread or bolt. Did you have any luck sorting that out?
@@EasyFixShaunThanks for checking back in. I actually made a rethread and it worked. Got it done 👍✅
Cool!
Always get the AC delco ones because they last longer
I agree. If possible get oem parts, they will typically last longer than everything else 😃 🔧
VERY good video 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!🍻
after you replace the selenoid do you delete the code?
Yup! Clear your codes and watch to see if they come back on.
@@EasyFixShaun i clean the selenoid and put it back hopefully that fixes the code👍
Excellent! That works most times if there is debris in the screen. Good luck to you 😀🔧🔧
Thank you very much sir. It helps a lot
You are most welcome😀😀
Is it OK to use isopropyl alcohol 70% rubbing first aid kind since you could use alcohol on electrical parts because it dries out and won't damage it
Please I need to know ASAP because I'm about to do it
Are you using it to clean the screen? If so, that should work great and not hurt anything 😃🔧
Yup!
Perfect explanation! Well done 👏
Thanks you! Glad to help out😀🔧
hello I have code p0014 on my hyundai accent 2016. the check engine light is on the car consumes lot of fuel and car makes noise. I therefore changed the engine oil and the filters, the noise continues and the engine check is still present. I removed the two selonoide clean and I tested with the multimeter 8.5 ohm each . Theses valeurs ares normal ? . the connectors also 9V each. I noticed that the two selnonoide in their middle there is a filter but they are drilled, can the hole still create this anomaly? Thank you for answering me
You could try cleaning them out and see if that helps. It is worth a shot if you already have them out and you don't have new parts yet. As far as the ohm testing that is fantastic, i don't have the value for new hyundai solenoids for your car. But if you can find that it would help you make a choice to order me much easier. I hope that helps 😀🔧
I got a p0013 code on my 2016 equinox..I changed both intake and exhaust solenoids. But engine light is still on..not sure what the problem is.. any ideas?
Where you able to reset the computer and it still came back on?
exellent video n narration .🏁
Glad to help out! 😀🔧
Any tips on how to remove to broken bolt that hold the solenoids ??!? A friend replaced both and the brand new bolt never tighten down but snapped
Ouch that sucks. Might need to drill and tap it unless you can get it out with an "easy out". Theres not cut and dry way to do bolt extraction. You need several plans to do it usually. So have a plan a, b, c, and d. Hopefully plan a works 🔧😃
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you
Pep Boys in Las Vegas quoted my mother $500 in labor alone to replace these solenoids. Needless to say, when I talked with the service writer, I tore her a new you-know-what. I then drove to Las Vegas from Columbus, Ohio to visit a little and bang this job out myself.
How do these people sleep at night?
Nice work! Ya that’s pricey. At least you could put the money to a nice visit and repair. Win win!
Hi recently had a problem stopped at a local shop to diagnose they checked these said they was ok found I had a bad coil so replace that 2 weeks later I happen to notice they didn’t plug these back up so I plugged them up and my car was running so bad stalling so I unplugged the back again and my car runs good so I left just the back one unplugged any suggestions what could be the cause? Should I replace that back one or could it be the o2 sensor or cam shaft sensor?
I am not sure what is going on there exactly. I do know that the engine computer will run ok with critical sensors left unplugged. It will run in what is known as "theoretical map mode". That is a pre-programmed fuel map that doesn't adapt or learn based on fuel trims, temps, rpm etc. It is rigid. It is designed to get you home if you loose a critical sensor. The valve solenoids may fall under the criteria on your engine depending on how the factory designed it. I am not sure about that though. The check engine lamp should be on if the sensors were unplugged. Checking codes would be a great place to try and sort it out 😃🔧
Great vid but for some seating the seal can be a problem, after my son tried seating it by turning down the bolt it still did not seat and broke the bolt .I got a socket that sat on the outer shoulder and gently taped it in hope this helps thanks.
No problem. Glad the video helped. Using the bolt to seat can create a wedge effect and break things for sure. Sorry you had that problem. The best approach is to seat by hand. Once seated then install and tighten bolt. The orings can be difficult to seat sometimes. The tolerances are fairly tight to create a good seal once seated. I usually try to lubricate the oring and that usually helps make it easier to seat 😀🔧
Hi, I had the p0016 code had air filter on the print out at auto zone. Car shop did the parts. They said the oil was dirty, Will that make it not work correctly keep engine light on ? They reset code. Light came back on.
I am going to get a oil change, but will THAT fix the problem, or I need to just get me a TOYOTA? lol
Yes. Dirty and/or low oil causes lots of problems, codes are one of them. I always recommend 3k-4k miles maximum oil change intervals with synthetic. Keep oil full at all times during the 3k-4k interval. Many people are going way beyond those intervals and make matters worse by not checking and filling oil level along the way. Do not follow manufacturers recommended intervals here!! Causes are sludge from running long oil changes and/or low oil levels. These cause a lot of issues, leading up to engine failure. The oil change + a quart of oil along the way are wayyyyy cheaper than an engine replacement 😀🔧
are the Solenoid's the same parts for a 2010 3.6L V6 chevy equinox ?
They might be but I'm not sure. Click on a description link and type in your vehicle information 😀🔧
good video, worked for a 2014 captiva sport
Glad it helped! Keep your oil clean and full at all times 😃🔧🔧
I have gmc terrain What happen if diz one is bad?
Just one at a time can be replaced 😃
Thanks so much -- great video and instructions -- worked like a charm
Excellent! I’m glad it helped you 😃
Quick question what would you recommend foe someone who does not owe a machine to clear the code?
Sometimes an auto parts store can check and clear the code. Sometimes disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will clear the codes. I put links in the description for a cheap code reader. Some are $16.99 on amazon.
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for responding I appreciate it very much, my intake part just came I'm today and I will let you know how it went 😀 😉
No problem. Good luck 😀🔧
beauty. thanks for posting this!!
No problem! Glad to help 😀🔧
I try tomorrow I clean them I see if codes get clean. I always change oil every time 3000 mileage. I see it work out
Excellent. I hope it works out for you 😀🔧🔧
I did work out. Code is clean. Lil bit oil slug one side. But other side was clean. I brake clean it. It work.. thank video
Awsome! Glad it helped out 😀🔧🔧
My car is a 2012 Chevrolet Aveo. The vehicle has a P0011 malfunction. There's a mistake in timing, it's being fixed, but it's broken again. The Timing Belt has changed, but it hasn't recovered. Do you think Camshaft gear is broken? Would you please help me. I'm reaching you from Turkey
Hard to say from here what is going on with your car. I would recommend letting the mechanic correct the mistake if possible. Sorry you are having so many problems with your car.
I just realized this may be the issue in my car. How long can I drive around with this happening? I know I can follow your guide this weekend but that's a few days away.
You should be ok for a few days. Hard to say exactly. I would make sure the engine oil is full and clean at the very least until the weekend 😃🔧
Could either or both of these not cause a code but cause a random intermittent stall when the car is started after sitting a day or so? Bought it used dropped the oil it wasnt in great condition. Plugs air filter etc changed throttle body clean. Runs fine other than the intermittent stall. Trim readings look good. Maf readings are good throttle sensor readings are good.
Yes these codes can all have a stalling symptoms associated with them 🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Thank you my man. I have new sensors on the way today. Gonna swap em out and see what happens. Anything a basic cheap obdii would pickup on a live scan thst might shed some light?
I hate these intermittent things. It won't do it whenever I'm around/with her and I don't keep a scanner in the car ready to go. If you give it a little gas it shudders and sputters a bit but is usually fine. And if you don't and it acts up. Turn key off then on it behaves. Fuel pump etc seem strong and runs well for what it is minus this nagging intermittent thing. Clearly I've got the big three air fuel and spark so it's gotta be some electronic voodoo. My initial thought was poor maintenance and I wasn't wrong did the majors so I'm down to these sensors or just setting it on fire.
@@Rich70480 These solenoids are very sensitive to sludge and dirty oil. In my experience it is always caused from running engine oil below the full line and from long oil change intervals. Whatever the cause the culprit is dirty oil. Otherwise these little solenoids will last a long long time 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun Yeah I don't know the history bought it used but it looked like plugs were original or close to it. Engine air filter was swapped at some point but still filthy oil wasn't terrible but also could have been changed quick to sell it. Cabin filter looked like an engine sir filter from the 90s that was never changed. I'll post an update after I pul and swap the sensors.
@@EasyFixShaun you got a patreon or something brother? I owe ya at least a beer. 10 minutes most of that finding my tools. Garage at home is a mess. All done. Idle smooth as silk. No shudder sputter yet. Both old ones covered in oil. Saved and gonna clean em in case these aftermarkets fail.
You the man dawg.
What did you use to clean them.
Brake cleaner i think. Any solvent ghat you have should work ok 😀😀
Very well presented.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it 😀
Should’ve done a diagnosis to show the function and how they performed before and after.
Great idea! Thank you 😃🔧
After replacing the solenoids do I have to replace or reposition the solenoid?As if I’m resetting everything.
Uaually just clear the engine codes and change or flush the engine oil if needed.
@@EasyFixShaun I’m not sure how to clear the codes. It sounds crazy and simple for you but to someone who doesn’t know it sounds complicated.
May I suggest, if another video of this is made maybe adding the clearing of the code. Lol
I changed these two solenoids twice and now for a third time and I didn’t clear the code. I was told that’s why I have to keep changing them out.🤷🏻♂️
The video was so very helpful to me and I appreciate you.
Disconnect the battery for five minutes and that should clear the code😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun seriously??? That’s it??
Man do I feel stupid. 🤦🏻♂️
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!
Should do the trick usually. If it doesn't the usual scan tool method would be needed. Most times any parts
store like O'rileys/autozone/advanced auto parts can do it 😀🔧
easy peazy, spent C$156 thou at canadian tire with lifetime warranty =)
Nice work 🎯😃
It looks like I have to do this. Is this a common thing for a car with less than 40,000 mi? Or could I have another issue?
Somewhat common in these motors. Especially if the oil is dirty. The oil sludge clogs them up even with low mileage😀🔧
Yes, it’s common on Equinox even under 100,000 miles. Happened to us around 60k
Great video. My parents have a 2015 Equinox with the Ecotec engine that has been exhibiting this stalling phenomenon. They have not had the check engine light come on and I used my basic scan tool to look for codes. There have not been any set or pending codes. The oil gets changed every spring and fall as they only drive about 2000 miles a year. Can you give any suggestions?
Ok. Well clean oil, full oil, and regular oil changes are cheap insurance. So that’s great. For the amount of work if takes I would pull them out and check and clean. When dirty they can cause stalling with no light on. They probably aren’t quite bad enough to set a code yet.
“Exhibiting a stalling phenomenon”
Mmm🤔, I gotta say that it’s the first time I’ve heard that as a description for a condition. Not hating, but rather quite the opposite with such eloquent description🙂
Maybe Terry lives in the United Kingdom. Sounds very proper english ish. 😀🔧
Thanks, solved my issue
No Problem 😀
My 2011 Chevy Equinox 2.4L doesn't always accelerate when stepping on the gas. Do you think this is the issue?
Check engine lamp on with solenoid codes?
Very very similar situation here.. exact engine in my 2019 polaris slingshot.
The 2.4 ecotech.. 2 weeks ago engine light illuminated & sluggish or loss of power & error code p2091 " cam phaser x Driver circuit open/high".. I'm sure codes do not match because polaris used a marine grade obd system.
But we have 2.4 GM ecotec & I'm curious if this possibly my issue as well? Engine has 48,000 easy miles. My questions are, is this "cam phaser x circuit open/high" on screen error pertaining too the solenoids?
And if so, does the X stand for exhaust solenoid?
Syn oil changes every 4,500 miles
@EasyFixShaun
Intake: Stewie Griffin head
Exhaust: smiley face. Just finished changing mine.
Nice work! 😂🔧
I can definitely do this, thank you for the instruction! Just wondering, this code came up and had been on and off for a few days since I ran out of gas even though I stay consistent with oil changes. Would that affect the actuators do you think?
Running out of gas shouldn't affect them. But if the engine was spitting and sputtering maybe it tripped the code for some reason. Hard to tell. You could clear the code and try starting and driving again before you clean or replace them 😃🔧
I got this code after running on empty gas. After fill up, the car stalled pulling away from the pump. Replaced both of these, all fixed now. Too coincidental that we both got this issue after an out of gas situation. Even though I cant see how the gas could have caused this!
@@benjamind5488 I shouldn't cause the code. But if the solenoids were questionable, it's possible that is all it took to finish them. Chugging and rough running while running out of gas isn't a normal condition. While that was happening the solenoids may have been trying to compensate and it coincidentally finished them off. Best guess 😃🔧
Mi TERRAIN hoy prendió ese código después de quedarme con bajo nivel de gasolina , estoy por examinar los selenoides. Mi duda es podrían funcionar limpiandolos o tendría que reemplazar??
Funny thing, my ‘14 was just filled at the pump when the engine light came on. Car would start, but as soon as I put it in gear, it immediately died. Coincidence?
Is easy to put the codes in or easy to use the scanner
A simple scanner like i have is cheap and easy to use. I got mine on amazon 😀🔧
Impressive explanation, as you did it. Very thorough.
Thank you! Glad it helped 😀
How do you just clean them? My 2010 is stalling
You can clean out the screen that surrounds the end of the solenoid once you remove them. It only takes a little bit of oil sludge on them to set the code. Use a solvent. I show it briefly in the video as an optional way to repair or try and repair. It usually is a flip of the coin if it works or not. Pretty good odds 😃🔧
Thank yoh so much im off to try it out
@@kevinronichaud119 Good luck!
I replaced them both
53K im good for awhile
Excellent! Hopefully good forever 😃
Thank you sooo much!
You're welcome! 😀😀
DRAY IS FORWARD BLACK IS BACK