***amzn.to/3OEl3XY link to the vented Oil Cap. The oil cap from the factory is NOT vented. By adding a vented oil cap, if the pcv gets completely clogged, this cap will allow the excessive pressure to vent from the oil cap and should prevent the rear main seal from blowing.
Well why do you need to add another problem to your existing problem. If you really need your filler neck and cap not to seal, remove an O ring from either one.
I tried what I saw in another video without removing the manifold. Drill a hole in the outside of the manifold directly above where the pcv orifice is. then put a piece of welding wire in, find the orifice, clean out the hole, then spray carb cleaner in. When done put sealant on a screw and thread it into the hole I drilled to seal it back up. I can remove the screw to clean it on a regular basis.
@pjmarkert1 my mechanic says vented cap screws up pcv and car doesn't run right. Although he may have just drilled a hole in the existing cap. Maybe vented cap is different than just a cap with a hole .
Great video and instruction! I like how you left your lessons learned like removal of the fuel line and one of the intake manifolds were not required which made the job a lot easier and less messy. Thanks for posting 👍
I had to give you a like, I watched 7 videos about this issue. You gave the best example of removing those clips. I am going to modify intake to have easy access to clean paving the future, got the idea from other video since I'm going to keep the car. Good luck
I just did this yesterday. You can removed the high pressure fuel pump easily and that will give you more room to move the intake manifold back to get to the orifice.
Such a crap design. Just took mine off yesterday and the airbox where the PCV valve is attached was filled with a water/oil milkshake. Thanks for the tip, buying the cap today from Amazon. Damn thing used 3 quarts of oil in the winter but thankfully didn't blow out the rear seal.
Good video! I know it does not address cleaning the other orifices at the top of each runner, but at least it helps clear the center orifice without removing the entire intake. Search... DON'T remove Equinox/Terrain intake manifold. PCV hole Super Easy Fix ((or)) Equinox/Terrain 2.4L Ecotech Clogged PCV Orifice Quick Fix Without Intake Removal Also, I moved my starter out of the way and it created just enough room to remove the intake plenum. So I didn't need to remove the fuel pump line.
a tip for anybody doing this work on an equinox or terrain,remove the high pressure fuel pump..makes it alot easier to get intake manifold out without damaging it...I did that..and fixed my terrain..
A good video for removal & reinstalling the intake, but I agree with the voices saying remove the manifold completely to clear the orifices. It allows easy access to the clogged holes and allows thorough inspection of the gaskets and cleaning of the mating surfaces. A piece of unnoticed debris or a cracked/scratched gasket could cause an unmetered air leak that can cause fuel trim issues and a path for dirt. I did mine(2017 model) and found the center hole plugged. Suggest removing the throttle body(manual suggests replacement of the TB gasket too) and pulling the dipstick tube up and out of the block hole(carefully as not to damage the o-ring) but not fully removing from the vehicle to gain enough clearance to remove the manifold. This PVC hole clearing may reduce some oil burning by reducing pressure in the crankcase, but not all if the low tension piston rings are stuck due to sludging, carbon or excess wear allowing blow by. Good oil maintenance is important. For the record, other manufacturers including Honda and Toyota, have had fuel dilution and oil consumption issues on GDI engines.
awesome video had the same issue i installed a oil catch can and i swapped the oil cap for a FC219 Engine Oil Filler Cap after that i never had an issue again
My issue is the same. My engine light is staying on continuel Trying to get some common ground I bought a warranty They said it wasn't covered????? I've give them 4600 00. In 3 yrs.they have never give me a cent towards any repair. Had to pay for a radiator it cost me 800.00. They told me it wasn't covered. Can you believe that!!! I'm having a war with coverage and GMC. One one knows anything. This has been going on for a month or more. My car stalls it just stops. Engine dies. I had what this video said but the same thing is going on. I hope all who reads this understands what I mean. It didn't fix the problem. I don't think GM knows either. I've talked to serval people and they said the same thing. Thanks for listening. Guess we got a lemon of a deal. Please post your comments so we maybe get it fixed. GM is responsible I feel. Have a pleasant evening. ..
Great job, another thing that can be done is purchase a new oil fill pressure release cap to protect the main end seal. Replacing the end seal will cost you $1200 to $1500 to repair the damaged end seal.
I cleaned the pcv and switched over my wife’s Equinox over to AMSOIL. That cut the oil consumption to a little under half. We are at 180,000 miles and it runs pretty good still.
@@OldSoulMillennial I am an independent dealer. I am not employed by AMSOIL. I sell my inventory from home, and I also have an online social media and website presence where folks can shop from anywhere in the USA or Canada.
You need to remove the intake manifold, it will come out. The intake needs to be flushed out because it has oil in the bottom of it. Once removed then you can decide if it needs the intake valves to be walnut blasted. The best issue is if it is plugged up you risk blowing the rear main seal! I drill and attach a one way valve into the oil filler cap. Like on a fuel line one way plunger, one you can easily blow one wat through it. This will save you from blowing a rear main seal if you see any wetness above your mod on your hood insulation you know that it's plugged. But the loose cap method l like. A catch can is a must on t 2.4 if you want to avoid carbon buildup on the intake valves. If it has ac the removal is more challenging, but you need to completely remove the intake!
Good video. You need to buy a inch pound digital torque wrench. Torque on plastic intake manifolds is CRITICAL! Especially on this POS. Worked on a few. Total nightmare.
@@OldSoulMillennial I get that! But man the QUINN digitals are way more accurate. For the larger stuff I only use split beam analog and love them! The old twist handles are total junk in comparison
Great video. Only thing I would have done differently is pull the manifold out and drill out that hole to 3/16 Dia then you won't have to worry about it again.
I also drilled the hole bigger and it’s making that whistle noise also Fml I ordered another intake manifold for 75 on Amazon and it comes with a new map sensor already installed since mine went bad while cleaning up the intake with water you live you Lear don’t reapeat my mistake
Nope, reused the gasket. Replaced the timing chain in another video. The engine is a crappy engine, but at least it's pretty easy to work on. If you know what to look for and stay on top of maintenance, 200K shouldn't be a problem.
@@OldSoulMillennial GM had a recall on the timing chain, fuel pump gasket and Chain guides. I took it in and within a month, it was back to rattling. You said you changed the Timing chain. Did you remove the motor ? GM did it in 3 days
@@johneppenauer6772 Nope, I left the motor in. Are you sure the rattle is coming from the chain? Link to my timing chain video ruclips.net/video/l9dfi_St4f4/видео.html
ATTENTION----ATTENTION THESE WERE ALL MY SYMPTOMS AND THE THINGS I REPLACED ON THE CAR BEFORE I SEEN THIS VIDEO AND SOLVED MY PROBLEMS. I HAVE A 2012 2.4L ENGINE CHEVY EQUINOX EXACT ENGINE AS THIS ONE. MY VEHICLE WAS WAS SHAKING AND ROCKING AT A COMPLETE STOP AT THE RED LIGHT, ITS WAS JERKING SO BAD AFTER DRIVING FOR A WHILE THAT I HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL EVERY TIME A CAME TO A RED LIGHT. I REPLACED THE FOLLOWING THINGS: UPSTREAM AND DOWNSTREAM O2 SENSORS---PURGE VALVE----AIR INTAKE SENSOR REPLACED THE LITTLE U PLASTIC TUBE GOING TO THE AIR BOX, THE ONE THATS FILLED WITH WATER SOMETIMES. I REPLACE THE THE THROTTLE BODY WITH SENSOR ON IT-------I REPLACED THE FUEL CAP AND THE OIL CAP-- I USE CAT CLEAN AND OIL ADDITIVES--- I CHANGE THE TWO ENGINE AND INTAKE VALVES THAT SIT ON TOP OF THE ENGINE (GREY AND WHITE ). I DID MUCH MORE BUT WHEN I SEEN THIS VIDEO, I SAID TO MY SELF, ITS NO WAY IN HELL THIS IS MY PROBLEM AT ALL, NO WAY!!!! IT WAS THE FOURTH OF JULY AND IVE HAD THIS VEHICLE FOR 5 MONTHS NOW AND ITS BEING DOING THIS SINCE I BOUGHT IT. I HAD CONVINCED MYSELF THAT IT WAS JUST THE TIMING CHAIN THAT HAD SKIPPED, LIKE THE ONES YOU SEE ON RUclips, BUT IT WAS THE 4TH OF JULY I WASN'T DOING ANYTHING SO I SAID TO MYSELF, LET ME RUN INSIDE A GET MY DRILL. I GOT THE SMALLEST SCREW I COULD FIND, I FOUND TWO THEN THE LITTLEST DRILL BIT AND I DRILL A HOLE IN THE AREA I SEEN IN THE VIDEO AFTER REMOVING ALL THAT PLASTIC AIR INTAKE CRAP, IT TOOK ME 2 SECONDS BUT I DIDNT FIND THE HOLE, SO I HAD TO DRILL ANOTHER HOLE UNDER THE FIRST I DID CASE IT WAS TO HIGH FROM THE HOLE INSIDE THE ENGINE MANIFOLD. BUT THE SECOND HOLE WAS PERFECT SO I TOOK SOME CARB CLEANER WITH THE STRAW AND SHOT THE CLEANER ALL IN THAT NEWLY DRILLED HOLE, CARB CLEANER SPLASHED EVERYWHERE CAUSE OF THE TWO HOLES I MADE. AFTERWARDS I TOOK A PAPERCLIP AND WENT THROUGH THE DRILLED HOLE TIL I FELT THE OTHER HOLE INSIDE THE MANIFOLD, WIGGLE IT IN AND OUT THEN SPRAYED SOME MORE CARB CLEANER IN IT AND TOOK MY TWO LITTLE SCREWS AND SCREWED THE TWO DRILLED HOLE SHUT. I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER AND IT TOOK ME LESS THAN 12 MINS, ENJOYED THE HOLIDAY FOOD AND DIDNT THINK OF IT AT ALL. I JUST WANTED TO SAY I DID EVERYTHING POSSIBLE BEFORE I LET THE DEALER FIX THE TIMING CHAIN. BUT WITH MY AMAZEMENT THE NEXT DAY. I STARTED THE CAR AND I FERLT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, YOU JUST COULD FEEL IT. YUP, GO TO FIND OUT THAT ALL THESE PROBLEMS MY VEHICLE WAS HAVING WAS BECAUSE OF THIS SMALL PIN SIZE HOLE THE ENGINE WAS FIGHTING TO GET AIR FROM. THIS HOLE WAS PLUGGED UP WITH CARBON JUST AS THE VIDEO DESCRIBES . SO THATS MY STORY, I HOPE THAT YOU ALL CAN USE THIS TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF GUESSING AS I DID. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ MY WALL OF LOUD TEXT, LOL
Saved my vehicle saw the difference with the oil cap.At first it was blowing it up now it’s sucking in just cleaned out the hole exactly like your direction easy and didn’t have to disassemble the whole engine 😂.
found a much easier way to do this with only taking the top plastic cover off with the tube leading to the throttle body. You then drill a 1/8th hole in a certain spot and you can clean that hole from the other side when done you put a little gasket maker on a small screw and plug her back up.. allows you to do this every 10-20k miles
I'm just gonna drill a tiny hole ontop of the engine. I will then clean out the hole with a paperclip then install a screw with a rubber washer when im done. I will make a video to show you how I do it. Its so much easier!
I have a2013 chevy equinox l.t.z.and i keep the oil changed regularly two years ago i had to change the front seal on it i also discovered when i take the oil cap off there is alot of blow by so the problem probably is a clogged p.c.vright?
I suggest to remove the intake completely reason being that the hole you are trying to clean is only one part of the cleaning. The face of the engine block has a square hole that helps vent the crane case that also needs to be cleaned. If this step is missed the hole you clean on the intake will quickly clog back up. I spray brake cleaner in the opening let it sit a few minutes and I found weed whacker string to work the best but by twisting it and a small amount of pressure it will snake its way into the crank case. This hole can also become completely blocked leading to negative pressure in the crank case and possibly blowing out the rear main seal. Also I thought I heard timing chain slap when you first started the car. If you have carbon buildup that well also cause problems with the chain. Some great videos on how to do it with out dropping the motor out. Parts are half the price from parts geek and if you have 70000 miles do the water pump at the same time
Yes. The timing chain had almost an inch of play in it and It wore out the guide at the top of the engine and started hitting the valve cover. The use plastic guides on each side of the engine and they wear out and can even brake. You can buy a complete kit for around $300. If you have high mileage I recommend getting the second chain kit and the water pump and gasket kit. I was able to do the job without dropping the engine out of the car. Not an easy job but wasn’t terrible.
I have a 2015 2.4 equinox with 105k. Just bought it in October did the oil change and the other day found it was 3.5 quarts low on oil!!! No leaks it’s burning oil at an insane rate.
If your pvc hose had vaccuum could you start the car pull the hose off and spray carb cleaner into the pvc hose letting the vaccuum take the cleaner all through the system?
Gm really needs to do a recall on these 2.4 cause they rings are junk and it causes oil to go through,but This is about the best you can do to fix this issue but be ready to do it every 20,000 miles cause it will clog again
They did years ago but the deadline has passed. Many people did not take their Terrains to the dealer so a lot of them get sold to other owners and they're stuck with the problem.
heck i installed brand new intake andnd installed vent cap but it still has a lot of case pressure and looking at both intakes theres about 6 holes for pcv system
Hello, I have a 2010 Chevy equinox with this same engine and it has a rough idle to the point where it stalls sometimes. Could this same issue be the problem? Thank you & great video? 👍
The variable timing solenoids. could be slugged up from high mileage or not changing the oil properly.The solenoids have very fine mesh screens on them.When they get clogged up.Will cause problems.You can pull the intake one out and clean it up with carb spray.It's only held down with a ten mm headed bolt.Clean it good and reinstall it.See what happens.Easy to get to.You might have to carefully grab it with some type of pliers and slowly turn it back and forth and pull upward.Especially if it's sludged up.Take your time doing it.
my 2014 equinox was stalling and it was as mentioned the intake camshaft solenoids. Amazon has aftermarket ones that are $25 for the intake and the exhaust fairly easily to install and took care of that problem. But last week my PCV system froze which this video is addressing that blew out my rear oil seal.. not a cheap repair being there is a ton of labor involved
Variable timing solenoids for sure. I have a 2011 and have had them replaced twice. If I wait until I actually hit the mileage for an oil change they will usually gum up and start to fail. Have to get an oil change about 1000 miles early to avoid it now days.
@@buddymcmullin4247 I would correct the problem, and add the vented oil cap. Don’t just add the vented cap, as you would be venting gasses under the hood.
Use a Manometer hooked to your Dipstick tube to get a Baseline on Crankcase vacuum. From that point on you simply test anytime you're in question of a problem with the PCV System. Honda/Acura has a low vac design and is why they in time consume oil. Ring gap gets wider, they lose ring seal with wear, etc. Here is a video before I changed the PCV System, used a Torque app on my phone and a Manometer again hooked to the Dipstick Tube to get dynamic readings or baseline of the OE profile. Very crude but effective to sort things out. Notice at 2:00 how long the Crankcase stays in pressure for 20 seconds. ruclips.net/video/h8PwCtzD_Ds/видео.html
The proper way to do this repair is to undo the fuel hose and take the manifold stud on that side out of the way and then take the manifold right out to clean everything properly. Just saying. That hole is pretty deep you need something straight and long to clean the hole out properly
Those engines have a lot of pressure that’s normal. Now if you have a 2.4, go outside, loosen you oil cap and see what it does. After that take the oil cap off and feel the pressure that’s coming out of the engine. Now, the cap may not dance around but when you remove the cap and feel the pressure you’ll be like wtf. All these test these people put on RUclips to check and see if that little hole is plugged don’t work. Our car is a 2017 gmc terrain 2.4, has 86k on it. I’ve tried the suction test, the oil cap dance test and the one where it’s supposed to whistle if you plug the line that goes from the valve cover to the air intake/plentum. None of the test work. So wanting to be proactive, I tore it down and the little hole was plugged with carbon. Cleaned it out put it back together and re did all the test. Every single test that’s posted on RUclips, the results were the same as before. Same exact results as the first time. Just be proactive and I’d say every 30k check the hole and make sure it’s clear and run the oil cap part number fc219 so it will release pressure.
They known for piston rings being worn or incorrect from factory. Doin a 2011 equinox now. Customer states uses alot of oil. Took cap off n it blows alot out. Doin a new piston an rering on it
There is a 2015 GM Service Bulletin noting there MAY (or MAY NOT) be a whistling sound, although I don't know if the system was changed by 2017. "With a properly operating PCV system and the manometer installed, there may be a whistle noise coming from the front or rear of the engine when the engine RPM is raised. This is normal when the vacuum in the engine is increased. The front /rear seal will open up and let air pass, which produces the whistle noise". SB-10090101-2280
Timing chains on these engines should be replaced at 150k. If your PCV is clogged, you should really think of doing the timing chain too. The guides like to break and cause the chain to get loose. It’s not super hard to do in your garage, but will take time. Last one I did took me 3 evenings, but I replaced a few other things at the same time (like the valve cover gasket, VVT solenoids, spark plugs, and fuel injectors)
The timing chain isn’t the problem. It’s the result of other problems. fix the other problems like changing the oil on time and the PCV you won’t have a problem with the timing chain.
@@sbond1963 I replaced a timing chain on one and it had clearly stretched. The plastic chain guides will break due to age before the chain stretches enough to skip a tooth though. Changing the oil on time doesn't stop the guides from getting old and breaking.
Thanks for the tutorial. Have question tho, what did you do to the gasoline that was sprayed all over when you took off the low pressure fuel line? I'm worried if that happens to me then it will cause a fire while I'm driving lol
I think taking it all the way of and cleaning should be the way to go. You went right to the end then half ass'd it. That orifice goes to each intake on that manifold. You may have cleaned one or two but you can't tell if all 4 are cleared unless you take it all the way off. You started off great but there are better, complete ones already on here.
And manufacturers telling customers oil change increments are 10 and 15k miles is a ploy to get you buying another soon. Synthetic oil is black after 5k. It's called maintenance. Change oil every 5-7k miles. Any knowledgeable mechanic will tell you that information
Complicated. Should be possible to just remove tube (intake to air scoop) and use wire to reach "PCV" orifice? Either blind repeated tests to find it or attach micro camera with light to wire?
You people work way to hard, all you gotta do is drill a hole in center hole of intake, clean out clog, and put a sheet metal screw in it. Remove the screw at a later date to clean pcv hole. Lol
Found a video on that. Fellow already has intake off so he drilled from inside so his location is precise and he shows it on outside. Suggested using grease to catch plastic pieces when drilling from outside.
PCV hole drilled into flat top oil filler cap, ( install suitable PCV valve with grommet ), then to catch can, ( mounted as low as possible ) then to brake booster inlet hose on intake manifold. Move check valve which is clamped inside the booster hose aside to right going to vacuum pump. It won't move past the molded angle. Use brass tee to left of inline check valve. Forget the orifices in the manifold, they are better off blocked. They are too low to do any good. PCV valves are always mounted high atop the valve cover. So why should Terrain differ? The black hose coming out of the valve cover to air intake is the breather hose. Only moist air should come out of it. Use 11/32 in. hose, or clear teflon if available. Don't neglect the trailing arm body mounts ( or rubber bushings ) on this vehicle. It is the most dangerous thing about the Terrain, in normal situations. Remove any rust from the area, inside and out, prime and undercoat. Then undercoat again ! If I am wrong, hey; it's RUclips.
You mean GM didn’t actually build these engines w/ maintenance in mind? Is that another “lifetime” non-serviceable component OR is the entire vehicle’s life still only ~100k miles? I thought we outgrew that expectancy decades ago, but it seems we are going backwards, as far as service-life and value for money is concerned. LOL! *Let me know if I’m missing some important details, btw 😢
@@mikep.9005 It was $1100.00 for a new rear seal, and an additional $1300.00 for the complete clean out of upper engine with a new cam cover. Total cost $2400. The dealership wanted $3800.00 for everything. Hopefully they did a good job. But 2 days later we noticed I think our catalytic converter going. It's making a rattle upon start up and then goes away. We were told it might be from the back pressure when the seal was blown. Geeze... Horrible.......car is mint with very low miles 40,000 miles only.....money pit I see
Buy a Toyota or youll be constantly in the garage with these GMC s. I have a 2010 gmc terrain 2.4 and he is a junk box. Always something breaking on it. Shame on you GM, bA$t@rds, gouging us for money non stop.
@@bigsteppa2200crank case builds vacuum like pressure when engine running from pistons going up n down so it's vented through your pcv system if that gets gummed up n clogged this will happen there's no were for the pressure to go except through oil cap hole but it's also bad because it can push oil seals out like rear main or front main seals if pressure gets to bad causing oil loss then engine loss eventually
***amzn.to/3OEl3XY link to the vented Oil Cap. The oil cap from the factory is NOT vented. By adding a vented oil cap, if the pcv gets completely clogged, this cap will allow the excessive pressure to vent from the oil cap and should prevent the rear main seal from blowing.
I bought one and I think it's letting oil come out. I see oil on top of motor that wasn't there before I replaced the oil cap
Well why do you need to add another problem to your existing problem. If you really need your filler neck and cap not to seal, remove an O ring from either one.
Helps, but still gotta clean the pcv system in the intake manifold, not just the little hose. Ask me how I know, lol
I just drilled a 1/8 inch hole in the cap
Just take the oil cap off and throw it out lol😅
GM , the company that will force every car owner to become an advanced mechanic
Mannnn seriously though. Horrible 🤦🏽♀️💯
Something as simple as a pcv system, gm can't fix
Wait for the electrical problems
How there is no class action is laughable.
Another genius GM design.
I tried what I saw in another video without removing the manifold. Drill a hole in the outside of the manifold directly above where the pcv orifice is. then put a piece of welding wire in, find the orifice, clean out the hole, then spray carb cleaner in. When done put sealant on a screw and thread it into the hole I drilled to seal it back up. I can remove the screw to clean it on a regular basis.
I also installed the FC219 vented cap. Actually found it online at Home Depot.
did this actually fix the issue for a lengthy period of time?
@@codyjohnson5674 Yes. I can remove the screw and clean it out when needed.
@pjmarkert1 my mechanic says vented cap screws up pcv and car doesn't run right. Although he may have just drilled a hole in the existing cap. Maybe vented cap is different than just a cap with a hole
.
@@gadasavideos8564 Yes it is a relief valve that vents at 2 PSI.
Best video on explaining how to remove each piece with perfect visuals. Thank you!
Old glove on throttle body and the welding wire to bend the straw. Good one!
THE BENDINT OF THE THROTTLE BODY / INTAKE SPRAY NOZZLE STRAW WITH USE OF THE WELDING WIRE, IS WHAT BEST I LEARNED FROM WHAT ALL SAW. THANK YOU
well done! its good to see the torch being passed to the younger generation....you have good skills
I change from Gm to a honda best decision in my life....2015 crv wich I got brand new I have 150,000 never had a issue...
My Mom's Husband has a 2014 Accord V6. I'm not very impressed with it
Great video and instruction! I like how you left your lessons learned like removal of the fuel line and one of the intake manifolds were not required which made the job a lot easier and less messy. Thanks for posting 👍
This is the best automotive instructional video I've ever seen. Good camera work and showed every step.
I had to give you a like, I watched 7 videos about this issue. You gave the best example of removing those clips. I am going to modify intake to have easy access to clean paving the future, got the idea from other video since I'm going to keep the car. Good luck
Just did the same on our GMC Terrain. Port was clogged too. Your video helped alot. Thanks
I just did this yesterday. You can removed the high pressure fuel pump easily and that will give you more room to move the intake manifold back to get to the orifice.
So with that fuel connected or disconnected?
Such a crap design. Just took mine off yesterday and the airbox where the PCV valve is attached was filled with a water/oil milkshake. Thanks for the tip, buying the cap today from Amazon. Damn thing used 3 quarts of oil in the winter but thankfully didn't blow out the rear seal.
Some people are also adding oil catch cans. I think this would be a big help
Good video! I know it does not address cleaning the other orifices at the top of each runner, but at least it helps clear the center orifice without removing the entire intake. Search... DON'T remove Equinox/Terrain intake manifold. PCV hole Super Easy Fix ((or)) Equinox/Terrain 2.4L Ecotech Clogged PCV Orifice Quick Fix Without Intake Removal
Also, I moved my starter out of the way and it created just enough room to remove the intake plenum. So I didn't need to remove the fuel pump line.
a tip for anybody doing this work on an equinox or terrain,remove the high pressure fuel pump..makes it alot easier to get intake manifold out without damaging it...I did that..and fixed my terrain..
A good video for removal & reinstalling the intake, but I agree with the voices saying remove the manifold completely to clear the orifices. It allows easy access to the clogged holes and allows thorough inspection of the gaskets and cleaning of the mating surfaces. A piece of unnoticed debris or a cracked/scratched gasket could cause an unmetered air leak that can cause fuel trim issues and a path for dirt. I did mine(2017 model) and found the center hole plugged. Suggest removing the throttle body(manual suggests replacement of the TB gasket too) and pulling the dipstick tube up and out of the block hole(carefully as not to damage the o-ring) but not fully removing from the vehicle to gain enough clearance to remove the manifold. This PVC hole clearing may reduce some oil burning by reducing pressure in the crankcase, but not all if the low tension piston rings are stuck due to sludging, carbon or excess wear allowing blow by. Good oil maintenance is important. For the record, other manufacturers including Honda and Toyota, have had fuel dilution and oil consumption issues on GDI engines.
awesome video had the same issue i installed a oil catch can and i swapped the oil cap for a FC219 Engine Oil Filler Cap after that i never had an issue again
My issue is the same. My engine light is staying on continuel
Trying to get some common ground I bought a warranty
They said it wasn't covered????? I've give them 4600
00. In 3 yrs.they have never give me a cent towards any repair. Had to pay for a radiator it cost me 800.00. They told me it wasn't covered. Can you believe that!!! I'm having a war with coverage and GMC. One one knows anything. This has been going on for a month or more. My car stalls it just stops. Engine dies. I had what this video said but the same thing is going on. I hope all who reads this understands what I mean. It didn't fix the problem. I don't think GM knows either. I've talked to serval people and they said the same thing. Thanks for listening. Guess we got a lemon of a deal. Please post your comments so we maybe get it fixed. GM is responsible I feel. Have a pleasant evening.
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Awesome detail! Thank you so much. Very sad this is a reality work these engines and that it takes so much effort. I'm up at 74K miles.
Nicely done video.
Great job, another thing that can be done is purchase a new oil fill pressure release cap to protect the main end seal. Replacing the end seal will cost you $1200 to $1500 to repair the damaged end seal.
Can you share an Amazon link to the cap
I cleaned the pcv and switched over my wife’s Equinox over to AMSOIL. That cut the oil consumption to a little under half. We are at 180,000 miles and it runs pretty good still.
What is your affiliation with Amsoil?
@@OldSoulMillennial I am an independent dealer. I am not employed by AMSOIL. I sell my inventory from home, and I also have an online social media and website presence where folks can shop from anywhere in the USA or Canada.
You need to remove the intake manifold, it will come out. The intake needs to be flushed out because it has oil in the bottom of it. Once removed then you can decide if it needs the intake valves to be walnut blasted. The best issue is if it is plugged up you risk blowing the rear main seal! I drill and attach a one way valve into the oil filler cap. Like on a fuel line one way plunger, one you can easily blow one wat through it. This will save you from blowing a rear main seal if you see any wetness above your mod on your hood insulation you know that it's plugged. But the loose cap method l like. A catch can is a must on t 2.4 if you want to avoid carbon buildup on the intake valves. If it has ac the removal is more challenging, but you need to completely remove the intake!
Great Job 👍
Great video! 👍
Good video. You need to buy a inch pound digital torque wrench. Torque on plastic intake manifolds is CRITICAL! Especially on this POS. Worked on a few. Total nightmare.
Thanks. Inch pound torque wrench is on the wish list! I'm old school though, so I'd go with an analog gauge.
@@OldSoulMillennial I get that! But man the QUINN digitals are way more accurate. For the larger stuff I only use split beam analog and love them! The old twist handles are total junk in comparison
Great video. Only thing I would have done differently is pull the manifold out and drill out that hole to 3/16 Dia then you won't have to worry about it again.
I read enlarging this hole will make your engine diesel/whistle and could cause other problems,
@@allancheli I drilled the hole to 3/16 in. and it is whisling bad. No other problem so far but the whisling is bothering me.
I also drilled the hole bigger and it’s making that whistle noise also
Fml I ordered another intake manifold for 75 on Amazon and it comes with a new map sensor already installed since mine went bad while cleaning up the intake with water you live you Lear don’t reapeat my mistake
Great video
I sure hope you used a new intake gasket. I also noticed the typical chain rattle in the timing area. The Ecotec engines are junk in my opinion.
Nope, reused the gasket. Replaced the timing chain in another video. The engine is a crappy engine, but at least it's pretty easy to work on. If you know what to look for and stay on top of maintenance, 200K shouldn't be a problem.
@@OldSoulMillennial GM had a recall on the timing chain, fuel pump gasket and Chain guides. I took it in and within a month, it was back to rattling. You said you changed the Timing chain. Did you remove the motor ? GM did it in 3 days
@@johneppenauer6772 Nope, I left the motor in. Are you sure the rattle is coming from the chain?
Link to my timing chain video ruclips.net/video/l9dfi_St4f4/видео.html
ATTENTION----ATTENTION THESE WERE ALL MY SYMPTOMS AND THE THINGS I REPLACED ON THE CAR BEFORE I SEEN THIS VIDEO AND SOLVED MY PROBLEMS.
I HAVE A 2012 2.4L ENGINE CHEVY EQUINOX EXACT ENGINE AS THIS ONE.
MY VEHICLE WAS WAS SHAKING AND ROCKING AT A COMPLETE STOP AT THE RED LIGHT, ITS WAS JERKING SO BAD AFTER DRIVING FOR A WHILE THAT I HAD TO PUT IT IN NEUTRAL EVERY TIME A CAME TO A RED LIGHT.
I REPLACED THE FOLLOWING THINGS: UPSTREAM AND DOWNSTREAM O2 SENSORS---PURGE VALVE----AIR INTAKE SENSOR REPLACED THE LITTLE U PLASTIC TUBE GOING TO THE AIR BOX, THE ONE THATS FILLED WITH WATER SOMETIMES. I REPLACE THE THE THROTTLE BODY WITH SENSOR ON IT-------I REPLACED THE FUEL CAP AND THE OIL CAP--
I USE CAT CLEAN AND OIL ADDITIVES--- I CHANGE THE TWO ENGINE AND INTAKE VALVES THAT SIT ON TOP OF THE ENGINE (GREY AND WHITE ). I DID MUCH MORE
BUT WHEN I SEEN THIS VIDEO, I SAID TO MY SELF, ITS NO WAY IN HELL THIS IS MY PROBLEM AT ALL, NO WAY!!!!
IT WAS THE FOURTH OF JULY AND IVE HAD THIS VEHICLE FOR 5 MONTHS NOW AND ITS BEING DOING THIS SINCE I BOUGHT IT. I HAD CONVINCED MYSELF THAT IT WAS JUST THE TIMING CHAIN THAT HAD SKIPPED, LIKE THE ONES YOU SEE ON RUclips, BUT IT WAS THE 4TH OF JULY I WASN'T DOING ANYTHING SO I SAID TO MYSELF, LET ME RUN INSIDE A GET MY DRILL.
I GOT THE SMALLEST SCREW I COULD FIND, I FOUND TWO THEN THE LITTLEST DRILL BIT AND I DRILL A HOLE IN THE AREA I SEEN IN THE VIDEO AFTER REMOVING ALL THAT PLASTIC AIR INTAKE CRAP, IT TOOK ME 2 SECONDS BUT I DIDNT FIND THE HOLE, SO I HAD TO DRILL ANOTHER HOLE UNDER THE FIRST I DID CASE IT WAS TO HIGH FROM THE HOLE INSIDE THE ENGINE MANIFOLD.
BUT THE SECOND HOLE WAS PERFECT SO I TOOK SOME CARB CLEANER WITH THE STRAW AND SHOT THE CLEANER ALL IN THAT NEWLY DRILLED HOLE, CARB CLEANER SPLASHED EVERYWHERE CAUSE OF THE TWO HOLES I MADE. AFTERWARDS I TOOK A PAPERCLIP AND WENT THROUGH THE DRILLED HOLE TIL I FELT THE OTHER HOLE INSIDE THE MANIFOLD, WIGGLE IT IN AND OUT THEN SPRAYED SOME MORE CARB CLEANER IN IT AND TOOK MY TWO LITTLE SCREWS AND SCREWED THE TWO DRILLED HOLE SHUT.
I PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER AND IT TOOK ME LESS THAN 12 MINS, ENJOYED THE HOLIDAY FOOD AND DIDNT THINK OF IT AT ALL.
I JUST WANTED TO SAY I DID EVERYTHING POSSIBLE BEFORE I LET THE DEALER FIX THE TIMING CHAIN. BUT WITH MY AMAZEMENT THE NEXT DAY. I STARTED THE CAR AND I FERLT SOMETHING DIFFERENT, YOU JUST COULD FEEL IT.
YUP, GO TO FIND OUT THAT ALL THESE PROBLEMS MY VEHICLE WAS HAVING WAS BECAUSE OF THIS SMALL PIN SIZE HOLE THE ENGINE WAS FIGHTING TO GET AIR FROM. THIS HOLE WAS PLUGGED UP WITH CARBON JUST AS THE VIDEO DESCRIBES .
SO THATS MY STORY, I HOPE THAT YOU ALL CAN USE THIS TO SAVE YOU A LOT OF GUESSING AS I DID. THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO READ MY WALL OF LOUD TEXT, LOL
So did you remove the manifold or drill a hole from the outside?
Saved my vehicle saw the difference with the oil cap.At first it was blowing it up now it’s sucking in just cleaned out the hole exactly like your direction easy and didn’t have to disassemble the whole engine 😂.
Nice job but wil it clog again in a while????
@@101aigle install oil catch can tons of videos for this motor to keep this from happening again
great video thanks!
found a much easier way to do this with only taking the top plastic cover off with the tube leading to the throttle body. You then drill a 1/8th hole in a certain spot and you can clean that hole from the other side when done you put a little gasket maker on a small screw and plug her back up.. allows you to do this every 10-20k miles
I'm just gonna drill a tiny hole ontop of the engine. I will then clean out the hole with a paperclip then install a screw with a rubber washer when im done. I will make a video to show you how I do it. Its so much easier!
Did you publish a video on that?
@gadasavideos8564 i didn't. I have to fix value 3.
I have a2013 chevy equinox l.t.z.and i keep the oil changed regularly two years ago i had to change the front seal on it i also discovered when i take the oil cap off there is alot of blow by so the problem probably is a clogged p.c.vright?
Ingenious spray tube mod, but I'd just remove it from the the throttle bottle spray can first
I suggest to remove the intake completely reason being that the hole you are trying to clean is only one part of the cleaning. The face of the engine block has a square hole that helps vent the crane case that also needs to be cleaned. If this step is missed the hole you clean on the intake will quickly clog back up. I spray brake cleaner in the opening let it sit a few minutes and I found weed whacker string to work the best but by twisting it and a small amount of pressure it will snake its way into the crank case. This hole can also become completely blocked leading to negative pressure in the crank case and possibly blowing out the rear main seal. Also I thought I heard timing chain slap when you first started the car. If you have carbon buildup that well also cause problems with the chain. Some great videos on how to do it with out dropping the motor out. Parts are half the price from parts geek and if you have 70000 miles do the water pump at the same time
I'm rewatching the video because i read that You Heard A Timing Chain Slap. lol wtf
Yes. The timing chain had almost an inch of play in it and It wore out the guide at the top of the engine and started hitting the valve cover. The use plastic guides on each side of the engine and they wear out and can even brake. You can buy a complete kit for around $300. If you have high mileage I recommend getting the second chain kit and the water pump and gasket kit. I was able to do the job without dropping the engine out of the car. Not an easy job but wasn’t terrible.
Thank you! I replaced intake/exhaust camshafts, camshaft position sensors, and for no improvement. Hopefully this will fix it.
What is your issues? Oil cap pressure? Burning excessive oil?
I have a 2015 2.4 equinox with 105k. Just bought it in October did the oil change and the other day found it was 3.5 quarts low on oil!!! No leaks it’s burning oil at an insane rate.
If your pvc hose had vaccuum could you start the car pull the hose off and spray carb cleaner into the pvc hose letting the vaccuum take the cleaner all through the system?
@@2wheeladdict12 Join the club! Be sure to check/add oil every two weeks. This video should help reduce the oil consumption. It reduced mine by half.
@@2wheeladdict12 In my opinion, it won't make it that far. Even if it does, you will really need a 90 degree pick to unclog the port.
Gm really needs to do a recall on these 2.4 cause they rings are junk and it causes oil to go through,but This is about the best you can do to fix this issue but be ready to do it every 20,000 miles cause it will clog again
They did years ago but the deadline has passed. Many people did not take their Terrains to the dealer so a lot of them get sold to other owners and they're stuck with the problem.
Great Video, Saved my ass today Thank you
Also safety oil cap
V4 hell yeah🎉
Never heard of a V 4 engine,and it’s a right angle pick kmsl….great job though 😅😅😅
Subaru have a v4
heck i installed brand new intake andnd installed vent cap but it still has a lot of case pressure and looking at both intakes theres about 6 holes for pcv system
Piston rings might just be that worn out. Run it into the ground, or you could always do a rebuild.
@@OldSoulMillennial yea what about seafoam will it loosen up stuck rings 100k on vehicle
It’s may id use marvel mystery oil in oil
Hello,
I have a 2010 Chevy equinox with this same engine and it has a rough idle to the point where it stalls sometimes. Could this same issue be the problem? Thank you & great video? 👍
The variable timing solenoids. could be slugged up from high mileage or not changing the oil properly.The solenoids have very fine mesh screens on them.When they get clogged up.Will cause problems.You can pull the intake one out and clean it up with carb spray.It's only held down with a ten mm headed bolt.Clean it good and reinstall it.See what happens.Easy to get to.You might have to carefully grab it with some type of pliers and slowly turn it back and forth and pull upward.Especially if it's sludged up.Take your time doing it.
my 2014 equinox was stalling and it was as mentioned the intake camshaft solenoids. Amazon has aftermarket ones that are $25 for the intake and the exhaust fairly easily to install and took care of that problem. But last week my PCV system froze which this video is addressing that blew out my rear oil seal.. not a cheap repair being there is a ton of labor involved
Most likely carbon buildup on the intake valves.
Variable timing solenoids for sure. I have a 2011 and have had them replaced twice. If I wait until I actually hit the mileage for an oil change they will usually gum up and start to fail. Have to get an oil change about 1000 miles early to avoid it now days.
@@randikalicki5056 did you try cleaning them out with brake cleaner?
Great video, thanks!
I pulled my oil dipstick out and noticed it was blowing air out. Is it suppose to suck in air.
Yes, It should suck in slightly
@OldSoulMillennial hmm. It just blow out.
Wouldn’t an oil catch can prevent oil from clogging that pvc orifice ?
Would changing to a vented oil cap improve the situation as suggested in another comment?
@@buddymcmullin4247 I would correct the problem, and add the vented oil cap. Don’t just add the vented cap, as you would be venting gasses under the hood.
Use a Manometer hooked to your Dipstick tube to get a Baseline on Crankcase vacuum. From that point on you simply test anytime you're in question of a problem with the PCV System. Honda/Acura has a low vac design and is why they in time consume oil. Ring gap gets wider, they lose ring seal with wear, etc. Here is a video before I changed the PCV System, used a Torque app on my phone and a Manometer again hooked to the Dipstick Tube to get dynamic readings or baseline of the OE profile. Very crude but effective to sort things out. Notice at 2:00 how long the Crankcase stays in pressure for 20 seconds.
ruclips.net/video/h8PwCtzD_Ds/видео.html
Will this help solve random missfire
@@Texan1 Read the engine codes. Start there
Have p0300 all that's left.
The best way to avoid oil build up in the pvc is adding a catch can , been done thisbtrucks eats oil for dangerously
The proper way to do this repair is to undo the fuel hose and take the manifold stud on that side out of the way and then take the manifold right out to clean everything properly. Just saying. That hole is pretty deep you need something straight and long to clean the hole out properly
I did the same but it keeps wasting oil clean the hole of the pcv orifice and it keeps wasting oil, what do you think it is thanks
Its just a poorly designed engine
I have the same problem, is wasting oil... any suggestion about fix it?
they installed shitty rings causing oil blow by. best bet is oil change every 3000 miles and check your oil.
Bad piston rings. Google it. It's a common issue
Oil catch can!! It helps
These cars are lemons. I have a 2010 replaced the transfer case and now I have water in the oil and a bad cat. 11700 miles.
Those engines have a lot of pressure that’s normal. Now if you have a 2.4, go outside, loosen you oil cap and see what it does. After that take the oil cap off and feel the pressure that’s coming out of the engine. Now, the cap may not dance around but when you remove the cap and feel the pressure you’ll be like wtf. All these test these people put on RUclips to check and see if that little hole is plugged don’t work.
Our car is a 2017 gmc terrain 2.4, has 86k on it. I’ve tried the suction test, the oil cap dance test and the one where it’s supposed to whistle if you plug the line that goes from the valve cover to the air intake/plentum. None of the test work. So wanting to be proactive, I tore it down and the little hole was plugged with carbon. Cleaned it out put it back together and re did all the test. Every single test that’s posted on RUclips, the results were the same as before. Same exact results as the first time. Just be proactive and I’d say every 30k check the hole and make sure it’s clear and run the oil cap part number fc219 so it will release pressure.
They known for piston rings being worn or incorrect from factory. Doin a 2011 equinox now. Customer states uses alot of oil. Took cap off n it blows alot out. Doin a new piston an rering on it
There is a 2015 GM Service Bulletin noting there MAY (or MAY NOT) be a whistling sound, although I don't know if the system was changed by 2017. "With a properly operating PCV system and the manometer installed, there may be a whistle noise coming from the front or rear of the engine when the engine RPM is raised. This is normal when the vacuum in the engine is increased. The front /rear seal will open up and let air pass, which produces the whistle noise". SB-10090101-2280
Timing chains on these engines should be replaced at 150k. If your PCV is clogged, you should really think of doing the timing chain too. The guides like to break and cause the chain to get loose. It’s not super hard to do in your garage, but will take time. Last one I did took me 3 evenings, but I replaced a few other things at the same time (like the valve cover gasket, VVT solenoids, spark plugs, and fuel injectors)
I made a video on the timing and balance chain replacement. ruclips.net/video/l9dfi_St4f4/видео.html
The timing chain isn’t the problem. It’s the result of other problems. fix the other problems like changing the oil on time and the PCV you won’t have a problem with the timing chain.
@@sbond1963 I replaced a timing chain on one and it had clearly stretched. The plastic chain guides will break due to age before the chain stretches enough to skip a tooth though. Changing the oil on time doesn't stop the guides from getting old and breaking.
How to remove fuel pump from 2012 gmc terrain
Thanks for the tutorial.
Have question tho, what did you do to the gasoline that was sprayed all over when you took off the low pressure fuel line? I'm worried if that happens to me then it will cause a fire while I'm driving lol
It will mostly evaporate. Ensure the engine is cool prior to attempting. Wipe down afterwords. Have a hose or fire extinguisher near by.
@@OldSoulMillennial wth 😂
That’s funny. Common chemistry there .lol😅
Thank you sooooo much
You're welcome!
Good job man ur the man bro u know ur shitt❤
I think taking it all the way of and cleaning should be the way to go. You went right to the end then half ass'd it. That orifice goes to each intake on that manifold. You may have cleaned one or two but you can't tell if all 4 are cleared unless you take it all the way off. You started off great but there are better, complete ones already on here.
Remove the throttle body from the cold intake and loosen the oil dipstick n I didn't need to remove the fuel line if you do it that way
And manufacturers telling customers oil change increments are 10 and 15k miles is a ploy to get you buying another soon. Synthetic oil is black after 5k. It's called maintenance. Change oil every 5-7k miles. Any knowledgeable mechanic will tell you that information
Noticed you reused intake gasket ..that's risky😢
If it's in good condition, i'm not replacing it.
Complicated. Should be possible to just remove tube (intake to air scoop) and use wire to reach "PCV" orifice? Either blind repeated tests to find it or attach micro camera with light to wire?
You people work way to hard, all you gotta do is drill a hole in center hole of intake, clean out clog, and put a sheet metal screw in it. Remove the screw at a later date to clean pcv hole. Lol
Found a video on that. Fellow already has intake off so he drilled from inside so his location is precise and he shows it on outside. Suggested using grease to catch plastic pieces when drilling from outside.
Great video. Hope it's working out
Its definitely cut down on oil consumption
@@OldSoulMillennial hope to see the same myself
Don’t worry I’m pretty sure at the point, the 2.4 IS a v-4
PCV hole drilled into flat top oil filler cap, ( install suitable PCV valve with grommet ), then to catch can, ( mounted as low as possible ) then to brake booster inlet hose on intake manifold. Move check valve which is clamped inside the booster hose aside to right going to vacuum pump. It won't move past the molded angle.
Use brass tee to left of inline check valve. Forget the orifices in the manifold, they are better off blocked.
They are too low to do any good.
PCV valves are always mounted high atop the valve cover.
So why should Terrain differ?
The black hose coming out of the valve cover to air intake is the breather hose.
Only moist air should come out of it.
Use 11/32 in. hose, or clear teflon if available.
Don't neglect the trailing arm body mounts ( or rubber bushings ) on this vehicle.
It is the most dangerous thing about the Terrain, in normal situations.
Remove any rust from the area, inside and out, prime and undercoat.
Then undercoat again !
If I am wrong, hey; it's RUclips.
That will be good but it will be clogged back up around 8000 miles
That engine is actually an I-4, not a V-4. Ford and Saab are the only manufacturers that made a V-4 but that was back in the 60's.
Thanks for the correction
Lancia also had V4 engines
Mitsubishi Galant/ lancer had v4 back in early 90s too.
You should have cleaned both orifice holes
You mean GM didn’t actually build these engines w/ maintenance in mind? Is that another “lifetime” non-serviceable component OR is the entire vehicle’s life still only ~100k miles? I thought we outgrew that expectancy decades ago, but it seems we are going backwards, as far as service-life and value for money is concerned. LOL! *Let me know if I’m missing some important details, btw 😢
We just had this job done to my wife's car
How much money did they charge you? And was it done at a GM dealership? Thx
@@mikep.9005 It was $1100.00 for a new rear seal, and an additional $1300.00 for the complete clean out of upper engine with a new cam cover. Total cost $2400. The dealership wanted $3800.00 for everything. Hopefully they did a good job. But 2 days later we noticed I think our catalytic converter going. It's making a rattle upon start up and then goes away. We were told it might be from the back pressure when the seal was blown. Geeze... Horrible.......car is mint with very low miles 40,000 miles only.....money pit I see
Thanks for your reply! YIKES! Always something!
@@mikep.9005 Always especially these days it's just horrible anymore how much parts and labor and the way things are built I wish you luck
I caught mine early only blew a camshaft seal 😂 replaced it myself and did this job will definitely be babysitting this car more
GM basically design these engines and the Vortex V8 DOD to destroy themselves SMH
V4? 🤦🏻♂️
Watch " I do cars " channel about the 2.4 ecotec engine........Don't buy one these engines are notoriously problematic to say the least.
Way too much work and opportunity for a screw up.
You did that much work take intake off and clean it out then you get another 100,000 miles ,plus the drill hole
😅😅😅😅
Not fixed after all things I done.
Buy a Toyota or youll be constantly in the garage with these GMC s. I have a 2010 gmc terrain 2.4 and he is a junk box. Always something breaking on it. Shame on you GM, bA$t@rds, gouging us for money non stop.
Loosen the gas cap next time it won't have pressure on it
What causes that?
@@bigsteppa2200crank case builds vacuum like pressure when engine running from pistons going up n down so it's vented through your pcv system if that gets gummed up n clogged this will happen there's no were for the pressure to go except through oil cap hole but it's also bad because it can push oil seals out like rear main or front main seals if pressure gets to bad causing oil loss then engine loss eventually