Old school for the triumph. If you are doing your own brakes, you have the basic set of hand tools. If you don't have an eight inch C-clamp, you know someone that does. And you'll have one of your own the next time.
Funny. I also have that tool. Before I take off the caliper I compress it with a pry bar a bit. One so I can fit the tool in to complete the compression and to make it easier to remove it off the rotor due to the lip created from excessive wear
Snap on offers a set that does most fronts but still leaves me in same position. Bluepoint offers a small one for rears and smaller clearance. Pricey ik but life saver fr
I still have my large C-clamp. Bit honestly now I use the tool with the red knob and a metal backing plate. It's fast and easy on a two piston brake caliper.
Or instead of complaining about it, maybe use the tool for the style caliper it's intended for? That's for larger brakes like used on trucks and vans, there are smaller tools made for light duty passenger car calipers
I use welding clamp vise grip. Been using it for 20 years. Everybody I show loves it the most. Click tighten click again. I use two for duel piston calipers. Better than anything
I always hated the c clamp method, that’s how I was taught. Once a tech showed me just to use big ass channel locks and strength it’s been a wrap ever since 10x faster to use channel locks.
I usually collapse them beforehand when they’re assembled just to make sure they’re not siezed but yes if I have to collapse them more off the carrier usually channel locks.
I have 2 from Snapon. One is for small calipers and has a minimum clearance of like 5mm. The other one goes smaller than the one you got. I think Jeggs sells one for a lot cheaper. Love those tools when they work
Should pull the boot opem and with caliper lube. Move the piston in and out a few times to spread the lube. But first, a little wd40 then brake cleaner (move piston in and out a few times while doing that too). Cleans out the rust.
Lisle sells the tools truck piston compressors off amazon. But i thought real old school was using a screwdriver and prying the old pad against the piston.....
I push it in by hand, old school not a weakling like these mechanics that need tools to do it. I've done brakes for 40 different personal vehicles ranging from north American to European including Ford escapes where you need the "twist and push" tool with the 2 studs to lock in. Every single caliper is was able to push back in with 2 hands.
I always just use a screwdriver it's faster and you don't have to use nothing else after the caliper is unbolted not unless it comes to certain cars you have to screw the caliper in
20 years ago I took a seat lamp welded a socket on the end of it that was a 3/8 drive and then I used my impact gun. Two work the sea clam works like a charm don't have to buy anything special......
I have a better version of this from snapon it was only $50 about 5 years ago it gets really thin and you can also take off one of the "flats" to make it even thinner I highly recommend it, it's been on every kind of car but a ev and rv 😂 plus it's only $50 side tip you don't have to be a shop mechanic to buy off tool trucks if you see one driving get the number on the side (it's there cellphone) or goto your local shops and see when the tool truck come around they'll give you a line of credit and most tools on the trucks are lifetime warranty and if you get to know the guy he'll give you deals 😂❤
With a little patience and a lot of grip force, I can compress the caliper piston by hand ✋. If your vehicle is less than 5 years old, then the caliper piston will easily compress 🗜️ by hand ✋. I can also crush an oil filter by hand. Found that out the hard way when it wouldn't turn and I had no tools.
When in doubt c-clamp it Never bought one of them tools I was taught with the c-clamp and the old break pad and still use that method today screw them new fancy tools 😅
This is something I've never spend money on bit every has a tool for. I still use the 20 yr old tool I had to make in 1st year😂 the cool snap on techs think their 400 pad pusher tool is worth it. It's not guys.
I just jam a large screwdriver in there and pry it back before I take the caliper loose..If it doesn't have a slot then I use my big ass channel locks..Why errbody gotta complicate things..lol
I have a question?... So i have tryed changing breaks pad on my 2012 Ford mustang 160k miles(back rear side) i was able to do them on other side smooth like 🧈 but on the left side. I bent the tool for it...does it mean it's rusted af? I jnow i probably need to change it but im wondering why it gets that way?
sheesh, at that point its either too badly seized or has to be twisted as it goes in. I know some ford trucks/vans have calipers like that. Definitely was a curveball when i learned i needed a specialty tool for it lol
Hay mate just a question is dawn vice made in usa or Australia, as an Australian its a bit odd seeing our tools in the us as it is usually the other way around
BEFORE you remove the caliper - use a big flat-head (between the pad and rotor...) 'i.e.' unless the piston also used for parking mechanism and requires 'twisting')
Yes, because there’s several different sizes it’s not one that fits all you still need to crack that bleeder loose because you’re gonna blow off the ABS system and all the garbage sitting in the bottom of the caliper pusher right back up to the master ABS lol not my brakes I want to be around you vehicle snacker stop right
I appreciate it . To each their own. I’ve done at least 50 sets of brakes maybe 100 and I’ve never once broke the bleeder loose and I’ve never messed up anything. I always go slow while tightening the clamp🗜️ 🤷♂️
So you are saying pretty much anytime the caliper relaxed or opens it pushes junk up in the ABS? Call bull shit. I have done at least 100 brake jobs and never cracked the bleeder. Always pushed them open with aC clamp to. Never had a problem.
I'm an ase certified technician, and I'd like to 2nd that call.... bullshit. You're theory isn't wrong, but as long as you go nice n slow while compressing the piston, you won't cause any problems or damage. 25yrs experience. 50 to 100 brake jobs was probably in the 1st 5yrs lol. Never had to open a bleeder for pad replacement. Only to bleed or flush old fluid.
99.9 % of the tools you use to do basic mechanical work or even high-tech mechanical work are just basic hand tools all those other fancy f****** tools they've come out with don't mean s***
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Never had that issue. But using a screw driver first is actually oldschool.
Old school for the triumph.
If you are doing your own brakes, you have the basic set of hand tools. If you don't have an eight inch C-clamp, you know someone that does. And you'll have one of your own the next time.
I approve this message
My dad always told me to keep a C-clamp handy. I’ve always done my brake pad changes with the C-clamp it’s never failed on me or broke anything.
Large channel lock works for me
Funny. I also have that tool. Before I take off the caliper I compress it with a pry bar a bit. One so I can fit the tool in to complete the compression and to make it easier to remove it off the rotor due to the lip created from excessive wear
Prybar the piston in with the pads still in... Fastest way i found.. works on most calipers
Snap-On makes two sizes of this tool that work very well. However, Lang Tools created the tool and sells it for less.
Even more old school, use a pry bar (or any bar) add the old brake and leverage it closed for the non screw type
The great thing about using a c clamp is it.has other uses as well. Can't stand having to keep specialty tools around.
A cut down silicone gun/caulking gun works as well
Old reliable.
I've used the same c clamp since my first brake job.
Trick my dad and grandfather taught me
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it…
Snap on offers a set that does most fronts but still leaves me in same position. Bluepoint offers a small one for rears and smaller clearance. Pricey ik but life saver fr
Get your old fashioned c-clamp it does a great job and save you money on those tools
I still have my large C-clamp. Bit honestly now I use the tool with the red knob and a metal backing plate. It's fast and easy on a two piston brake caliper.
Bro get the Cornwell or snap on version. Life savor.
Should crack the bleeder screw before removing the caliber and then when compress the piston back it will push out the old brake fluid.
Use snap on reversible duel piston. U flip one side n it goes about a inch or so gap. I use it daily in the shop. Flip it around for those f-550 etc
Or instead of complaining about it, maybe use the tool for the style caliper it's intended for? That's for larger brakes like used on trucks and vans, there are smaller tools made for light duty passenger car calipers
No school like the old school baby
same problem i had with those tools, two 6 inch C clamps never let me down
I’m glad I’m not the only one
I bought a cheap Amazon one and I've used is about 100 times no issues. Not surebwhy that one is so wide. Mines way thinner and good up to duel piston
I use welding clamp vise grip. Been using it for 20 years. Everybody I show loves it the most. Click tighten click again. I use two for duel piston calipers. Better than anything
Big heavy screwdriver, pry bar .. before you take off brakes use tool between outer pad and caliper pry , piston will compress
It's for dual/quad piston brake calipers my guy
Yep…large pry bar or c-clamp. Never fails. What a dumb tool…bummer. I was actually curious about it. Thought it adjusted down more!
That caliper piston is really extended out pretty far. Old pads must have been completely spent.
I always hated the c clamp method, that’s how I was taught. Once a tech showed me just to use big ass channel locks and strength it’s been a wrap ever since 10x faster to use channel locks.
You're trying too hard. They only go in so fast. Just use a moderate amount of constant pressure and it will work just as well.
I usually collapse them beforehand when they’re assembled just to make sure they’re not siezed but yes if I have to collapse them more off the carrier usually channel locks.
That calliper needs to be replaced anyway the piston boot is torn.
I have one from snap on for duel piston calipers it works great!
Thats how I did brakes on my old bike, just a small c clamp, push piston o
In.
This tool is great sometimes, although it wont always fit.
I have been using the same unit for about 2 years. Most brake jobs it fits but I have had to push Caliper in before it would fit a few times
*Most* single piston calipers can be pushed back with a large screwdriver or prybar before ever removing the caliper.
I use a screw driver in the inspection hole in the caliper to loosen it up and then while still on it i use the large C clamp
Hasnt failed me yet.
That's what happens when you run the pads down to the metal
I have 2 from Snapon. One is for small calipers and has a minimum clearance of like 5mm. The other one goes smaller than the one you got. I think Jeggs sells one for a lot cheaper. Love those tools when they work
No way its 5mm. The metal plates are almost that thick.
So the customer wore their pads down to metal which caused the piston to extend past its normal distance, and you blame the tool.
I bought one
I too used C clamp but thought I give it a try.
Same issue 😂😂😂
They make a different one that is meant for the rear
Buy a quality one, forgot brand but mine has orange rubber handle, about $40 and i have had 1 rear caliper it did not compress enough for
I hate wasting money on needless tools
I just use wrench, like lever
Large channel locks.😊
I have a similar tool works decent but my calipers have pistons on both sides
Just buy you the caliper brake kit my going!
Should pull the boot opem and with caliper lube. Move the piston in and out a few times to spread the lube. But first, a little wd40 then brake cleaner (move piston in and out a few times while doing that too). Cleans out the rust.
A flathead screwdriver to pry the piston back in place before you pull the caliper off is the way to do it. Anything else would be uncivilized.
Old ways the best ❤
Lisle sells the tools truck piston compressors off amazon. But i thought real old school was using a screwdriver and prying the old pad against the piston.....
I push it in by hand, old school not a weakling like these mechanics that need tools to do it. I've done brakes for 40 different personal vehicles ranging from north American to European including Ford escapes where you need the "twist and push" tool with the 2 studs to lock in. Every single caliper is was able to push back in with 2 hands.
Always use a c clamp. Every other tool is a waste of money.
I always just use a screwdriver it's faster and you don't have to use nothing else after the caliper is unbolted not unless it comes to certain cars you have to screw the caliper in
20 years ago I took a seat lamp welded a socket on the end of it that was a 3/8 drive and then I used my impact gun. Two work the sea clam works like a charm don't have to buy anything special......
C clamp all day everyday, careful what we buy , clever marketing clever sales tac that shit we really do not need 🎉
It’s for multipot, non-sliding calipers.
I have a better version of this from snapon it was only $50 about 5 years ago it gets really thin and you can also take off one of the "flats" to make it even thinner I highly recommend it, it's been on every kind of car but a ev and rv 😂 plus it's only $50 side tip you don't have to be a shop mechanic to buy off tool trucks if you see one driving get the number on the side (it's there cellphone) or goto your local shops and see when the tool truck come around they'll give you a line of credit and most tools on the trucks are lifetime warranty and if you get to know the guy he'll give you deals 😂❤
Yep get out the c clamp never fails
Use a pair of channel locks to squeeze the caliper.
I do that on small cars
Great video, look out !
With a little patience and a lot of grip force, I can compress the caliper piston by hand ✋. If your vehicle is less than 5 years old, then the caliper piston will easily compress 🗜️ by hand ✋. I can also crush an oil filter by hand. Found that out the hard way when it wouldn't turn and I had no tools.
Damn … okay Mr Hulk
I once crushed an empty aluminum can
Well damn man don’t run them pads tell the metal starts sparking and the piston will have some more room for yeah
When in doubt c-clamp it
Never bought one of them tools I was taught with the c-clamp and the old break pad and still use that method today screw them new fancy tools 😅
Piston is out a little bit too far isn't it?
Because it's for 4 piston calibers.
I would use the old pair of brake pads to fill in the space when pushing the piston back in.
I usually just squeeze it with my hands till it 90% in and use channel locks for the last 10%
Dang okay Mr hulk
C- clamp
Use my large pliers. Works fine
C-clamp..
Those are a piece of shit! There mainly made for the front calipers, double pistons and up. Mine stripped out second time using it
I use a steering wheel puller, WORKS FINE !!!
Why bother smh a C clamp works every time
Oh, you watch Rainman Ray as well?!!
Sorry, but old school is good enough.
Harbor Freight C-clamp three bucks
This is something I've never spend money on bit every has a tool for. I still use the 20 yr old tool I had to make in 1st year😂 the cool snap on techs think their 400 pad pusher tool is worth it. It's not guys.
Mine broke.
I just jam a large screwdriver in there and pry it back before I take the caliper loose..If it doesn't have a slot then I use my big ass channel locks..Why errbody gotta complicate things..lol
Probably some new s*** from the gen z
Good old flat head for this guy
I have a question?... So i have tryed changing breaks pad on my 2012 Ford mustang 160k miles(back rear side) i was able to do them on other side smooth like 🧈 but on the left side. I bent the tool for it...does it mean it's rusted af? I jnow i probably need to change it but im wondering why it gets that way?
Try a c clamp
Open the bleeder valve to keep from damaging the master cylinder seals.
Done hundreds.. never damaged anything by not opening bleeder
This a great example of:
"if it aint broke, dont fix it"
Amazon sells name brand ones for a few dollars more that aren’t crap. Buy cheap get what you pay for
Big flat head screwdriver. That piston would have been pushed back before I even tack the calipers bolts out. Like if you know how to do this. Lol
You had the solution all along. Why Try to make the job harder?
Why did you buy the tool if you already owned the c clamp
That’s a good question 😂
Mann I bent a 6inch heavy duty dawn vice trying to push in my piston still unsuccessful
sheesh, at that point its either too badly seized or has to be twisted as it goes in. I know some ford trucks/vans have calipers like that. Definitely was a curveball when i learned i needed a specialty tool for it lol
Hay mate just a question is dawn vice made in usa or Australia, as an Australian its a bit odd seeing our tools in the us as it is usually the other way around
I don’t know. I wouldn’t want to lie to you. The C clamp is a pony brand it came from Lowe’s. The other caliper tool came from amazon.
BEFORE you remove the caliper - use a big flat-head (between the pad and rotor...)
'i.e.' unless the piston also used for parking mechanism and requires 'twisting')
I usually do that when I can get a flat head in there👍👍
Yes, because there’s several different sizes it’s not one that fits all you still need to crack that bleeder loose because you’re gonna blow off the ABS system and all the garbage sitting in the bottom of the caliper pusher right back up to the master ABS lol not my brakes I want to be around you vehicle snacker stop right
I appreciate it . To each their own. I’ve done at least 50 sets of brakes maybe 100 and I’ve never once broke the bleeder loose and I’ve never messed up anything. I always go slow while tightening the clamp🗜️ 🤷♂️
So you are saying pretty much anytime the caliper relaxed or opens it pushes junk up in the ABS? Call bull shit. I have done at least 100 brake jobs and never cracked the bleeder. Always pushed them open with aC clamp to. Never had a problem.
I'm an ase certified technician, and I'd like to 2nd that call.... bullshit. You're theory isn't wrong, but as long as you go nice n slow while compressing the piston, you won't cause any problems or damage. 25yrs experience. 50 to 100 brake jobs was probably in the 1st 5yrs lol. Never had to open a bleeder for pad replacement. Only to bleed or flush old fluid.
Can you not flip the switch on the side there and compress the tool to the correct size?
Jesus Christ loves you my brother! Please turn to him and get to know him for who he is through his word! He wants you with him! God bless you 🙏🏼❤️
You're using it wrong put the one end outside of the caliper
Please explain how that would work
Don't mess around with a tried and true methods. That's why I use a C clamp to do breaks and carry a 1911.
Hell yeah brother
99.9 % of the tools you use to do basic mechanical work or even high-tech mechanical work are just basic hand tools all those other fancy f****** tools they've come out with don't mean s***
I just use a screwdriver wtih both old brake pads are in. Works fine🪛