Did you have to take the cam pulleys off to get the metal rear cover off ? The metal rear cover blocks my water pump from coming off and I noticed that you removed it in the video and didn’t show how you took it off It’s visible in the video at 11:17 behind the idler pully And it’s gone when you go to take the pump off at 12:32
Yes, you have to remove it. Here is the video for that: ruclips.net/video/WwUTWIZdETo/видео.html I tried to make two videos in order to reduce the length. I guess I didn't do a good job.
When I get the replacement kit, it always comes with a new "idler pulley" "2 new cam shaft seals" and "crank seal." At 90,000 miles changing all of this because the seals never last for 180,000 for the next belt, pump, idler pulley and tensioner replacement. I am not able to do that myself but had a mechanic do it once for me years ago and they did not replace any of the seals and 30-40,000 miles later I was having lots of oils leaks until the next belt change. If you are in their and all that trouble and time, it is best to replace everything. 90,000 is a long long time. Don't know how you work on an engine or anything with gloves on. Never have. Very good video and excellent idea using those small clamps to keep the belt in the correct tooth position. I have rotated engines backwards for short turn's, it did not care. Thanks. 😉
Hi John, yes I agree it is best to do everything while you are in there. That is what I did as well. Unfortunately that was not filmed. I have learned to use gloves when I started filming. It is impossible to operate video, sound & lighting with greasy hands. (I started doing this last year during Covid, thinking it would be a fun project & learning a new skill, but found it also adds a ton of time and complexity to my work.)
Great video, thanks! The "old" tensioner looks brand new and the engine looks very clean overall. BTW the torque wrench should once be clicked once - a second click means you are overtightening
A 2 foot long extension has so much twist in it anyway that it is probably light on the torque specs. I give the crank bolt a couple of zaps with the air impact and its good.
Very nice video...it's real! sharing to the public like youtube all guys like the d.i.y. and saving more money like me...God bless you ...thank you very much hoping for your another video's
My RX330 has a 221 tooth belt. All the replacement parts kits that I've found so far have only 211 teeth. No doubt I can sort that tomorrow. I got the crank bolt undone with a monstrous battery impact driver that I was able to borrow. The cam pulleys presented more of a problem, I couldn't break the bolt just by stalling the belt. Had to use a chain grip which put a small dent into the pulley, so like you I used a piece of the old tooth belt to protect the pulley. Nothing's easy!
Hi Graham, yes I also used that same chain grip to remove the cam sprockets. If you have a small dent you can just clean it up with a small file if necessary. The crank bolt is not too bad to get off with a good impact, but the problem is getting it back on. The impact can work for that, but if you want your bolt at the proper torque setting you have to use something else. As you said, this is not an easy job, but for a weekend warrior it feels great to get it done!
@@Pen_Pusher Hi there. The extra 10 teeth I counted must have been due to too many codiene tablets to cope with my new hip. Either that, or I'm getting old. But I do think that if you had access to a number of broken engines, you could readily pattern up a pulley hold tool that would suit more than one application. Not only would it be quicker, but some pullies such as Honda are quite thin. A castellated head one side for the five spokes, and a pipe socket outside to insert a long bar. Go for it.
@@Pen_Pusher i had to remove the cam pulleys to get the water pump out. because that plate that is behind the cap pulleys also covers the top of the water pump and so there is no way to remove the pump with that plate in the way. I have a 2002 sienna and the water pump i removed on my van i think was the original it had a Toyota logo stamped on it. I dont know if an after market water pump will not be covered by that plate but mine was. anyways I found your video on removing the cam pulleys and it was very helpfull as this video^ was very helpfull. Thanks A lot! much appreciated! nice work by the way
Hi, Could you please answer this question. Two spacers fell out of the car when I was replacing my sienna water pump and the timing belt. I found them under the car. I do not know where they go. The hole is about 5/16 of an inch. You can look at my profile picture in the ABOUT section to see the picture of the spacer. Thanks!
I have hard time to take off the water pump on 2002 Sienna. I tried different angle but can't remove it. I may need to cut the one long bolts so the water pump can slide it out. it is 1MZ-FE engine, V6.
Are you talking about the procedure at 13:50-56? I got one side out first and then turned it upwards to get the other side out. You could try to unscrew the long bolts, but I would not cut them, unless you will be replacing them. :)
What size of the chain grip did you use? I saw Harbor freight has 19" and 20" chain grip for sale. Is it enough length to hold the harmonic balancer? In other videos I saw, I didn't see mechanics use the chain grip, they just use a special Lisle socket and a impact wrench to remove the nut on the harmonic balancer. Maybe 3MZ-FE engine is slightly different from the 1MZ-FE engine.
Thank you for the video, your technique for getting the pulley bolt off is something I haven't seen in other videos and looks like the one I have the best chance of making work. Why do you need to take the cowling off as noted in the text?
@@Pen_Pusher I bought it 8 yearse ago and the previous owner replaced it at 110000. It has 162,000. Given the fact that replacing timing belt cost around $1000 I am not sure if it is worth to replace it in few years because the car price will be the same.
The 1998-2000 Sienna engines are acknowledged to be non-interference. But the 2001-2003 Sienna 1MZ-FE VVT-i 3.0-liter engines are often described as interference engines. However, many people who have worked on these 2001-2003 engines insist that they are also non-interference. At least one RUclipsr has posted a demonstration video in an effort to prove it @@andrdarovskih
You're a great instructor. You forgot to go through the process of removing the back metal plate of the timing belt cover behind the sprockets. It's in the way of removing the water pump. I see it before you take the pump out, and then I don't, while you're removing the old and installing the new pump. And then i see it again, when you're installing the timing belt. I'm sure the back plate is not removed, but it must be moved a little to let the pump come out. What do you say? Am I missing something?
Also i didn't have a serpentine scrap so I tried inner tube and damaged a spline on the harmonic balancer a bit. I smoothed it out with a file and sand paper. I hope it is okay for a while.
No, you are not missing something. The back plate does have to be removed to get the water pump out. I show it in my other video on replacing the cam seals. It was my bad for not double-checking when I split it up into two videos. I do try and keep it from getting too long. Still ended up with two long vids! :)
It's all good. The balance seems to be fine. It was a tiny chunk out of one spline. I think you should edit removal of the pulleys into the video as it's crucial to the water pump job. At least add a note which refers the other video, kind of like the note which appears when it's time to remove the cowling. Thank you so much for posting this video. Keep up the great work!
Great video! I actually purchased an 01' Sienna with 223K Miles. Last time timing belt was replaced at 108K. I was looking for information and videos on this job and come across your video! I have few questions, did you use the same timing belt or is it new? And did you replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals?
It is a new belt, but it was previously mounted. I will post a video on the cam seals one of these days. I did replace the crankshaft seal, but the video turned out to be no good.
@@Pen_Pusher Yes, agreed. Great videos! Sorry the vid for the crankshaft seal didn't work out. Quick question, did you improvise a way to insert the crankshaft seal with a PVC end cap or did you break down and buy or rent an installer? Thanks
Why didn’t you show how to remove the two cam sprockets ???? They have to be removed to remove the back half (metal part) of the cam belt cover. Otherwise the water pump can’t be removed….
I had the same question.... I loosened and drained the water pump then realized it couldn't be done, so I put the bolts back in and now I'm putting the belt on, and I hope there aren't leaks!
@Brooks Nicols it can be done just remove the 2 studs with a 5.5 socket and the 2 tens you can see on the black dust cover. Just did this 10 minutes ago.
In case anyone needs it, pulley threads for removal tool are m8-1.25
Thanks for that Olds!
God bless you for taking your time for this video very kind of you I'm working on my Toyota sienna 2003 I'm half way there
Good luck. Keep going!
Did you have to take the cam pulleys off to get the metal rear cover off ? The metal rear cover blocks my water pump from coming off and I noticed that you removed it in the video and didn’t show how you took it off
It’s visible in the video at 11:17 behind the idler pully
And it’s gone when you go to take the pump off at 12:32
Yes, you have to remove it. Here is the video for that: ruclips.net/video/WwUTWIZdETo/видео.html
I tried to make two videos in order to reduce the length. I guess I didn't do a good job.
When I get the replacement kit, it always comes with a new "idler pulley" "2 new cam shaft seals" and "crank seal." At 90,000 miles changing all of this because the seals never last for 180,000 for the next belt, pump, idler pulley and tensioner replacement. I am not able to do that myself but had a mechanic do it once for me years ago and they did not replace any of the seals and 30-40,000 miles later I was having lots of oils leaks until the next belt change. If you are in their and all that trouble and time, it is best to replace everything. 90,000 is a long long time. Don't know how you work on an engine or anything with gloves on. Never have. Very good video and excellent idea using those small clamps to keep the belt in the correct tooth position. I have rotated engines backwards for short turn's, it did not care. Thanks. 😉
Hi John, yes I agree it is best to do everything while you are in there. That is what I did as well. Unfortunately that was not filmed. I have learned to use gloves when I started filming. It is impossible to operate video, sound & lighting with greasy hands. (I started doing this last year during Covid, thinking it would be a fun project & learning a new skill, but found it also adds a ton of time and complexity to my work.)
MY GOODNESS!!!!! YOU MADE THIS JOB LOOK SOO EZEEEE. NICE VID. VERY INFORMATIVE. .THANKS FOR THE UPLOAD
You're welcome! :)
Great video! No fluff, straight to the point. I have the EXACT same year van in the same color, so thanks for the torque specs as well. Well done!
You are welcome! :)
Excellent work
Thanks Ted!
That was one ambitious project! Well done, sir 👍👍!!!
It is a big job, but it saves you quite a bit of money. :)
Great video, thanks! The "old" tensioner looks brand new and the engine looks very clean overall. BTW the torque wrench should once be clicked once - a second click means you are overtightening
Thanks Drago!
A 2 foot long extension has so much twist in it anyway that it is probably light on the torque specs. I give the crank bolt a couple of zaps with the air impact and its good.
Very nice video...it's real! sharing to the public like youtube all guys like the d.i.y. and saving more money like me...God bless you ...thank you very much hoping for your another video's
Thanks Welbert! We are all saving money by doing stuff ourselves. :)
My RX330 has a 221 tooth belt. All the replacement parts kits that I've found so far have only 211 teeth. No doubt I can sort that tomorrow. I got the crank bolt undone with a monstrous battery impact driver that I was able to borrow. The cam pulleys presented more of a problem, I couldn't break the bolt just by stalling the belt. Had to use a chain grip which put a small dent into the pulley, so like you I used a piece of the old tooth belt to protect the pulley. Nothing's easy!
Hi Graham, yes I also used that same chain grip to remove the cam sprockets. If you have a small dent you can just clean it up with a small file if necessary. The crank bolt is not too bad to get off with a good impact, but the problem is getting it back on. The impact can work for that, but if you want your bolt at the proper torque setting you have to use something else. As you said, this is not an easy job, but for a weekend warrior it feels great to get it done!
@@Pen_Pusher Hi there. The extra 10 teeth I counted must have been due to too many codiene tablets to cope with my new hip. Either that, or I'm getting old. But I do think that if you had access to a number of broken engines, you could readily pattern up a pulley hold tool that would suit more than one application. Not only would it be quicker, but some pullies such as Honda are quite thin. A castellated head one side for the five spokes, and a pipe socket outside to insert a long bar. Go for it.
@@grahamcrooks3581 Hi Graham, that sounds like a good suggestion!
Hey, so you have to remove the cam pulleys to get the water pump out?
Here is the video: ruclips.net/video/WwUTWIZdETo/видео.html
You do not have to remove the cam pulleys to get to the water pump.
@@Pen_Pusher i had to remove the cam pulleys to get the water pump out. because that plate that is behind the cap pulleys also covers the top of the water pump and so there is no way to remove the pump with that plate in the way. I have a 2002 sienna and the water pump i removed on my van i think was the original it had a Toyota logo stamped on it. I dont know if an after market water pump will not be covered by that plate but mine was. anyways I found your video on removing the cam pulleys and it was very helpfull as this video^ was very helpfull. Thanks A lot! much appreciated! nice work by the way
@@alexfontaine6233 You got er done. Well done Alex!
What where when and how to jacking up the engine
what about the starter bump method to loosen the crank bolt if you don't have the chain tool?
Yes, it can help take it off, but it doesn't help you to put the bolt back on again. You need a reliable method of loosening and fastening the bolt!
Thank you 👍
can the water pump be changed without taking off the crankshaft pulley?
Normally your timing belt cover is in the way. You have to remove the crankshaft pulley to remove the timing belt cover.
Hi, Could you please answer this question. Two spacers fell out of the car when I was replacing my sienna water pump and the timing belt. I found them under the car. I do not know where they go. The hole is about 5/16 of an inch. You can look at my profile picture in the ABOUT section to see the picture of the spacer. Thanks!
Hi Paul, you are going to have to retrace your steps and see what you missed...
Does anyone know the size of the chain grip needed for this job??
I would guess the vise grip has to be 8-12 inches. Mine is 10 inches. :)
@@Pen_Pusherthank you! Phenomenal video by the way
That belt still looked new.. was it do for a change?
Yes, it had about 100k on it. :)
Good job congratulations and thank you for your help
You're welcome Pedro! :)
I have 2002 Sienna and have not replace after 22 year. Do I need to?
Interesting that you watch a video on replacing a timing belt and then ask the question of whether you need to. I am curious how that came about?
Nicely done thank you..
excellent video!
I have hard time to take off the water pump on 2002 Sienna. I tried different angle but can't remove it. I may need to cut the one long bolts so the water pump can slide it out. it is 1MZ-FE engine, V6.
Are you talking about the procedure at 13:50-56? I got one side out first and then turned it upwards to get the other side out. You could try to unscrew the long bolts, but I would not cut them, unless you will be replacing them. :)
What size of the chain grip did you use? I saw Harbor freight has 19" and 20" chain grip for sale. Is it enough length to hold the harmonic balancer? In other videos I saw, I didn't see mechanics use the chain grip, they just use a special Lisle socket and a impact wrench to remove the nut on the harmonic balancer. Maybe 3MZ-FE engine is slightly different from the 1MZ-FE engine.
Yes, you can use a specialist tool, of course. The chain grip is a general tool with many different applications.
You have to take off belt from the pulley first when you set chain grip around the pulley. Is it right? How do you take off belt from the pulley ?
You take off the serpentine belt as well as the power steering belt. I have videos on both of those on this channel. :)
Great video . Thank you . Was extremely helpful .
Glad it helped! :)
Thanks for detailing video
You're welcome!
Thank you for the video, your technique for getting the pulley bolt off is something I haven't seen in other videos and looks like the one I have the best chance of making work. Why do you need to take the cowling off as noted in the text?
I take the cowling off to give me more room for the timing belt cover and to access the motor mounts. :)
I took the cowling off. It makes for better access
Can you please explain that on Ingles
Is the Sienna 1997 - 2002 engine a non interference engine ? BTW great job !!
It depends on your engine number. Why do you want to know? I just make sure I replace it every 100,000. :)
2001 and up are an interference engine, ALL vvt-i are also... 2000 and below (1MZ-FE engines) are NON interference
@@andrdarovskih Thank You.
@@Pen_Pusher I bought it 8 yearse ago and the previous owner replaced it at 110000. It has 162,000. Given the fact that replacing timing belt cost around $1000 I am not sure if it is worth to replace it in few years because the car price will be the same.
The 1998-2000 Sienna engines are acknowledged to be non-interference. But the 2001-2003 Sienna 1MZ-FE VVT-i 3.0-liter engines are often described as interference engines. However, many people who have worked on these 2001-2003 engines insist that they are also non-interference. At least one RUclipsr has posted a demonstration video in an effort to prove it @@andrdarovskih
👍👍👍 thanks you
You're welcome!
❤️
why are you replacing that belt it looks new?
The video removing the belt didn't look good, so I had to retake it with the new belt. :)
You're a great instructor. You forgot to go through the process of removing the back metal plate of the timing belt cover behind the sprockets. It's in the way of removing the water pump. I see it before you take the pump out, and then I don't, while you're removing the old and installing the new pump. And then i see it again, when you're installing the timing belt. I'm sure the back plate is not removed, but it must be moved a little to let the pump come out. What do you say? Am I missing something?
Also i didn't have a serpentine scrap so I tried inner tube and damaged a spline on the harmonic balancer a bit. I smoothed it out with a file and sand paper. I hope it is okay for a while.
@@brooksnicols2411 Should be okay, as long as you don't take away so much metal that it becomes unbalanced.
No, you are not missing something. The back plate does have to be removed to get the water pump out. I show it in my other video on replacing the cam seals. It was my bad for not double-checking when I split it up into two videos. I do try and keep it from getting too long. Still ended up with two long vids! :)
It's all good. The balance seems to be fine. It was a tiny chunk out of one spline. I think you should edit removal of the pulleys into the video as it's crucial to the water pump job. At least add a note which refers the other video, kind of like the note which appears when it's time to remove the cowling. Thank you so much for posting this video. Keep up the great work!
@@brooksnicols2411 Good idea. I guess I now have to learn post-production editing! :)
Great video! I actually purchased an 01' Sienna with 223K Miles. Last time timing belt was replaced at 108K. I was looking for information and videos on this job and come across your video! I have few questions, did you use the same timing belt or is it new? And did you replace the camshaft and crankshaft seals?
It is a new belt, but it was previously mounted. I will post a video on the cam seals one of these days. I did replace the crankshaft seal, but the video turned out to be no good.
@@Pen_Pusher Yes, agreed. Great videos! Sorry the vid for the crankshaft seal didn't work out. Quick question, did you improvise a way to insert the crankshaft seal with a PVC end cap or did you break down and buy or rent an installer? Thanks
@@matt19661 Hi Matt, yes I figured out to do it with a PVC cap. It meant I had to redo the whole process. See my video on that. :)
@@matt19661 Here is the video: ruclips.net/video/WwUTWIZdETo/видео.html
Why didn’t you show how to remove the two cam sprockets ???? They have to be removed to remove the back half (metal part) of the cam belt cover. Otherwise the water pump can’t be removed….
I made a separate video for removing the cam sprockets and replacing the cam seals. :)
I had the same question.... I loosened and drained the water pump then realized it couldn't be done, so I put the bolts back in and now I'm putting the belt on, and I hope there aren't leaks!
@Brooks Nicols it can be done just remove the 2 studs with a 5.5 socket and the 2 tens you can see on the black dust cover. Just did this 10 minutes ago.
Great video but you didn't mention or show how to take back timing belt cover and without doing that good luck taking out the water pump.
Yes, you have to do that. I just don't have the video for it. :)
Toyota engineery is totally garbage
I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Toyota makes some of the most reliable vehicles out there!
Disagree