Toyota Camry / Avalon 1MZ-FE Timing Belt, Water Pump, Seals & Pulleys Incl: Sienna/Solara/ES & RX300
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Toyota Avalon 1995-2004 Lexus ES300 1994-2001
Camry 1994-2001 RX300 1999-2003
Highlander 2001-2003
Sienna 1998-2003
Solara 1999-2003
This video on a '97 Toyota Avalon 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE will show you how to replace the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, camshaft seals and crankshaft seal. The customer's car had 169K miles and engine oil leakage was coming from below the right front wheel. This type of leakage usually points to worn camshaft seals. If the seals are not replaced, oil will eventually migrate to the belt which will weaken it and the belt will eventually snap. Replacement OE (original equipment) part brands: Mitsuboshi Timing Belt; Aisin Water Pump; Koyo and GMB or NTN Idler & Tensioner Pulleys; NSK? Seals.
Since I've done numerous MZ-FE belt replacements, at a moderate pace, I can complete this repair in under 5 hours with my tool set. For first time DIY at home mechanics, with the right tools, approximately 8 to 12 hours. You will see in this video I use powered electric impact tools. Using these tools increases my productivity by at least 50%. Some people have commented in my other videos that I'm running the risk of breaking/shearing off nuts and bolts using powered tools. It really doesn't matter if you're using mechanical or powered tools; if the nut/bolt is rust frozen, penetrating oil is not used and not using the technique of gradually loosening and tightening to work the nut/bolt loose, the bolt will shear off or the threads will strip.
If you'd like to make a donation to the channel, please follow the link below: paypal.me/Hard...
To perform this procedure on the 3MZFE engine, refer to these videos (Sienna & Camry 3MZFE):
• Toyota Sienna V6 3MZ-F...
• Toyota Camry V6 3MZ-FE...
Toyota 1MZFE Parts and Specialty Tool:
Toyota Camry, Avalon, Solara, Lexus ES 300, '97'01 (Haynes Repair Manual)
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Toyota Sienna 1998 thru 2006 (Haynes Repair Manual)
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Aisin TKT-024 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump (all parts that are used by Toyota dealership parts suppliers)
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Toyota 90311-38034 Seal, Type T Oil (Cam Seal if your TB kit doesn't come with new seals)
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Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
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Bando OEM Power Steering Belt:
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Bando OEM Alternator / AC Belt:
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Torque Strut Rod:
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DEWALT DW4901 1-Inch Crimped End Wire Brush:
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22 mm High Mass Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal Socket
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OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack (easiest way of torqueing off those stubborn crankshaft pulley bolts)
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Camshaft Seal Removal Tool (makes seal removal go faster):
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Camshaft Seal Installation Tool (makes seal installation very easy):
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Telescoping 2" Round Inspection Mirror (easy way to view the alignment of the rear camshaft):
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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease (to lubricate the new cam and crankshaft seals):
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Chain Strap Wrench (for holding the camshaft sprockets):
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ATD Tools 99650 XL Ratcheting Wrench Set with 10 Metric Sizes - 5 Piece (I use these for everything that requires torque in tight spaces)
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Right Angle Portable Electric Drill (for the Wire Cup Brush for prepping the block for a new pump):
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Wire Cup Brush:
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Oxygen Sensor Wrench:
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If you do not feel comfortable using a chain strap wrench to remove the camshaft pulley bolt, you can try using a universal pulley holder tool. You'll need to use this in conjunction with a "cheater bar".
OTC Universal Pulley Holder:
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Harmonic Balancer Puller Tool:
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Star / E Socket Set:
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Toyota Antifreeze Coolant:
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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
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Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
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As an Amazon associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Thank you for your support!
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#timingbelt
This video was incredible. Mechanic wanted to charge me $1400 to replace those 3 seals! I did it after watching this for about $200 in tools and parts in a day. Thank you sir.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
One thing that drove me nuts on this job was I thought the rear cam sprocket was installed backwards by mistake bc the flange is facing out on it but facing in on the front one. Came here to verify that it's on correctly. Great tip on the paint can tool as a seal remover! Thanks for the video mate!!
Thanks!
Absolutely invaluable video. You don't realize how many people you've helped and money saved. For that I'm subscribed. Thanks.
Thanks for the sub and support!
@@hardlymovingprosame here, thank you ! One question though - you didnt have to set the tdc or timing marks prior to removing the old belt ?
@zamiryi Thanks! TDC was set at the 4:30 video time mark
lol that slack trick is only for the people who have gone through the pain and suffering of trying to align everything without moving the cogs. I learned that trick the first time I did a timing belt change on 3VZ-FE. You make it look easy. Good job
Thanks for sharing!
I just wanted to thank you for your video bud, excellent. I've been putting this job off in my 04 Rx330 for 5 yrs. I finally did it with 197k, it was the original belt. I couldn't have got this thing back together without your help. That Toyota bracket system, thanks again and keep up the excellent videos. Took me a couple days, but it's done. Thank you
Nice work and glad the video helped you out!
13:01 this tip saved my life brother. I've been at it for 3 days before I found your video. Thank you so much for putting this info out here. Your expertise allowed me to help my friend get her timing belt replaced. Thanks again, God bless!
Good for you and thanks for sharing a successful belt installation! I've done a lot of belt realignment jobs where the belt was previously installed with slack between the cams and crank resulting in timing misalignment.
What a fabulous video! You rock! Couldn’t have done the job on our old ‘01 Avalon without your step-by-step expertise and common sense explanations! Your procedures for aligning the cam and crank timing marks were spot on! In another of your videos you encouraged the use of genuine replacement parts. Your are so right! Bought a “Genuine Toyota” timing belt kit on eBay. Replaced the cam seals, crank seal, “Aisin” water pump, “Koyo” idler pulley, “Koyo” tensioner pulley, Toyota thermostat. All seemed to be going well until it came time to install the “Toyota” timing belt. The timing mark for the rear cam was not marked properly....the gold line was marked directly on top of a belt tooth. Also, the marking for the crank sprocket was off by 5 3/8”. Suspicious, took timing belt and the two “Toyota” accessory belts to a Toyota dealership. The guy at the Parts Counter went into the stacks and brought out timing belt and accessory belts that fit our Avalon. The eBay kit timing belt was clearly mismarked. The construction and feel of all three of the eBay kit belts was clearly different than the Toyota dealership belts. Was clearly to see the eBay kit belts were counterfeit! On the the drive home decided that if the belts in the eBay kit were counterfeit, then it was likely that the other components were also likely to be counterfeit! Uninstalled all of the other components that came in the eBay kit. Ordered new components from Contitech and from Toyota dealerships that discount their Genuine Toyota parts. The job turned out successfully....learned a lot. Again, many thanks...Couldn’t have done it without you!
Great story and glad it all worked out for you! Contitech or Continental do make great parts.
Aisin also has a timing belt kit and is a Toyota oem supplier. Yep, I also learned the hard way to avoid buying the "cheap" so called manufacturer OEM parts on Ebay, and even on Amazon. If you want OEM parts, only buy from the dealers and yes it will cost more (often ALOT more), even with the discounts many dealerships offer, but that is the price for getting the real parts I suppose.
You said it!
Thank You.
Success!!! Excellent video. Step by step and got it done right the first time. I invested in some of the tools recommended... used the kit, seals, and belts recommended. The weighted 22 mm socket was key in removing the crank bolt. Plus with the money I saved by doing it myself. I purchased a new heavy duty 1/2 inch cordless impact wrench. Way better than the corded harbor f one I've been using for the last 15 years. And the mirror was key in aligning the rear cam position. Also..I Cut the old belt to wrap the cam and held it in place with electrical tape as to not risk nicking the cam teeth with the chain wrench. Extra work... but call me cautious.
The order and method in which the belt is installed worked like a charm. Before putting the cover back on... I turned the engine over about 4 times with the crank bolt (clockwise) and every time it was Top Dead Center for the cams and the crank. The belt that comes with the kit has two solid lines for the cams and one dotted for the crank marker at the 3 o'clock position. The crank has two markers. Make sure you install the belt with the arrow pointing to the wheel well and away from the engine.
I'm a weekend wrencher but with this video I was able to accomplish a task that I would have never attempted in the past. Again. Much thanks.
Hey ... thanks for sharing your experience using the video as a guide!
Awesome video. My 1999 Toyota Avalon was recently salvaged when my teen got into his 3rd accident, but I plan to change the timing belt on my wife's 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid. This engine is similar to the Highlander Hybrid engine, so as soon as school is out for the summer (or maybe sooner - coronavirus?) then I'll do this job and become the greatest DIY mechanic of all time (in my mind of course).
Thanks for your comment, support and good luck when you're ready to do the repair ... and hopefully this will be you teen's last accident (everything happens and ends in three's)!
Awesome video, the lighting was perfect I was able to see everything and the highlight points where fantastic. Your explanation was understandable. And most of not boring with a lot nonsense babbling. Thanks again for the help. I should be able to the job with very little setbacks.
Thanks and good luck with the job!
Thanks for the video. It was big help. The least expensive impact wrench I could find that would remove the crank bolt was the Harbor Freight Earthquake. You can find a used one on Ebay. I got the cheapest timing belt kit I could find on Ebay. The paper water pump gasket that came with the kit was torn up when it arrived. I got a metal one at Advanced Auto. During installation, I tore six after market cam seals before I broke down and got OEM ones at the Toyota dealership. They fit perfectly. I practiced removing and installing the timing belt on a junker at Pull-A-Part.
This minimized the installation time on my car. Thanks again
Glad it all worked out for you.
I inherited a 2000 Toyota Avalon XL (72K miles) and had to take it in to a local mechanic for an alignment after I replaced the outer tie rod ends. They informed me that the timing belt was way overdue since the vehicle was that old. They quoted me 1200.00 just for the belt alone. I've become quite a weekend mechanic but never attempted a timing belt. However after watching your comprehensive video I think I'll give it a go. Thanks for all the links to the parts needed and if this goes well.... I'll attempt the valve cover gaskets since they are starting to leak. I'll report back my success. Thanks in advance.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the great video. Just completed a timing belt replacement on my girlfriend's ES300 - your video made the job go smoothly and saved me from having to work through it based off just the shop manual alone.
Nice work!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks! Just fired her up this afternoon - ran like a dream.
Outstanding. I watched the video several times and then went out to do it. I also bought a chiltons. Complete garbage manual. My only flub was that chain wrench. I nicked up the pulley pretty good. Bought a new one and the right tool. LOL. You really made this easy for me and I really appreciate it. I'll reinstall everything tomorrow and hopefully it works.
Good for you! Nick marks on the cam pulleys won't hurt the belt.
Dude Ive been working on cars for almost ten years and I learned all kinds of tricks today! Great video sir!
Glad it helped you out!
Had a 95 Avalon. Got to do this job twice. I used an aftermarket water pump that was included in the all in one replacement kit ( Gates, I believe) and two years later I was tearing it all apart again to replace the bad pump. In hindsight I should have used Toyota parts. Gee, where have I heard that before all over You Tube?😂
Toyota subcontracts their w/p's to Aisin. You can get them cheaper than the dealer.
One of the best how-to vids I've seen. Well done and thanks.
Glad you liked it and hope it helped you out!
Very good video! Great shots of the work done makes it very useful for helping those who are doing a timing belt replacement. One tip I would include is that when you take off the camshaft pulleys, using a chain wrench like you did will mark up the surface of the pulley a bit. An easy technique to avoid this is to cut a piece of the old timing belt off and wrap it around the camshaft pulley before removal. I found that there was enough room on my old belt between the marks I made for the rear camshaft pulley and the marks for the crankshaft so I could cut enough to wrap around the camshaft pulley but not lose my old marks.
Also, I found that a 1-1/4" PVC pipe fit the camshaft seals well and was able to press them on with that. If you do use PVC for pressing the seals on, I would recommend taking the old camshaft seal and placing that on the end of the PVC that fits up against the new seal. That way, the old seal distributes the press force evenly on the new seal, and it is less likely to damage the new seal.
Thanks for your post and sharing your experience.
One of the best videos on the topic! Makes a big and scary job easy to follow. Great camera work and explanation. Thank you so much.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Awesome to see somebody that knows what they are doing. It is damn hard to find. A great mechanic where I Live.
Thanks ... appreciate your post!
I'm glad you explained to your viewers about the cam pulleys being opposite from each other. Thanks again for getting back to me through the other video.
You bet
I'm having a friend of mine backyard mechanic do this job. He's charging me $250 after watching this video. I think that's money well spent
Good deal! Use name brand parts and you'll be all set!
How's it holding up after a year? I'm planning on doing my 04 soon
@@SPOT305 Dude took it apart, went to lunch, and we never saw him again.
What an awesome video! Thanks so much for the detailed info and the great camera work. This is gonna be so much easier thanks to you!🤘🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Glad you enjoyed it! Let us know how your job turns out!
Dude, you rock! I gotta say, so nice of this feller to post this video. Did a TB job a couple of years ago on my 2000 Avalon 1MZ-FE but now have a oil leak under the TB cover, suspect the left ( towards front of car) cam seal. Darn it!. His list of tools (and workaround tools!) used is so very helpful, especially the seal removal tool (thanks for that hombre!) his tips and tricks are important and informative.
Consult your Service manual for torque numbers and which bolts should be replaced due to metal fatigue of bolts under pressure (like the crank bolt, I believe). Read through all the comments section and replies, watch the video a number of times, write down important notes, take pictures BEFORE removing parts and where belt tension bolts are in relation to brackets, use masking tape to ID bolt placements, use separate baggies for parts and bolts that go together, use nail polish to mark TDC marks when you find them to highlight them like which camshaft pulley goes where and at what orientation BEFORE removing parts, take his advice on how to tension and manipulate the TB when reassembling.
USE OEM PARTS! you don't want to take any chances given how much time you are going to spend doing this. He even lists part numbers for you! (double check against YOUR vehicle schematics on OEM parts dealers websites, sometimes parts are "repclaced by" newer Toyota parts #s). Remember, this job is going to take you a lot longer than it does him. GO SLOW and prepare well and good luck!
Oh yeah, never hurts to watch other videos on the subject to pick up the little tips and tricks for the first-time DIYer, take notes. Make a folder in your bookmarks and save the videos and websites for easy access, don't try to commit to memory only! Tahe Lexus ES300 of the same year has the same motor (1MZ-FE). It's a good idea to watch these videos also. The more videos you watch BEFOREHAND, the more tips and tricks you'll pick up especially on the more crucial points (position of cams and crank pulleys in relation to TB, how to remove crank bolt, how to isolate cams from moving, etc., how to lift motor for clearance in removing brackets if necessary).
You can "rent" some of the tools (crank pulley puller, for instance) from your local parts supplier like O'Reilly's, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc., by leaving a deposit w/ them on your credit card and when you return they credit back to your card. Make a list of what tools you need and compare them to what they offer for "rent" (might have to go to multiple stores, KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS!).
Thanks again sir, for posting such a good video!
Thanks for your post and kind comments! Good to hear from someone who watched the video in detail and took note of all the tools I use. Makes the job go easier and faster.
Thank you for the comment! Very helpful reminders. Im preparing for this job this video will be very very useful
This video is a great improvement over the timing belt job you did for the Camry. I especially liked how you used a paint marker to better show us the alignment marks for the timing belt. Great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
I use those paint marks every time I do a timing belt. I mark the old belt at each TDC mark. Then transfer those marks to the new belt and use them to make sure the belt is on tight and not shipping a tooth. Hasn't failed me yet.
Thank you brother.I’m here at the mechanic Shop where I’m learning and this video..”THIS VIDEO IS ON POINT”..Great job man
Glad you found the video educational!
Would like to thank you again for your excellent, step-by-step video! You are an excellent teacher! Just completed the replacement of the timing belt, seals, pulleys, accessory belts, etc. on our ‘04 Avalon. The tools that you use: the 22mm Lisle high mass impact socket, the Lisle seal removal tool and the cam seal installation tool have all been excellent investments that made the job so much easier. The tips that you give to install the timing belt and remove the slack on the cam and crank sprockets before engaging the tensioner are invaluable! Eventually, would like to do the timing belt on our ‘05 Lexus LS430 (3UZ FE) 4.3L V8 engine. The current selection of on-line videos for this replacement are lacking in hands-on instruction compared to your fine videos. Would it be possible for you to tackle one of these engines and produce a video showing all of the steps? Keep up the great work and many thanks again for sharing your expertise! Have a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks for sharing your successful TB job! The belt and w/p replacement on the UZ-FE engines isn't difficult but more time consuming. What is a pain (that I haven't done yet on a customer's car) is the replacement of the cam seals. It requires the removal of the camshaft. A friend of mine with a 98 LS400 (under 200k miles) had a TB break because of leaking cam seals. The valves got bent since it's a interference engine. He swapped it out with a JDM engine he picked up for under $1,000.
Appreciate your video. I just finished installing new water pump, seals and timing belt on my 1998 Toyota Avalon. Your guidance helped tremendously. My belt failed and broke apart inside and wrapped several times around the crank gear. So, there was no aligning the marks before replacing the belt. Things I found out while replacing the belt: 1. The 1MZ-FE (pre VVT) does not appear to be an interference engine or maybe it is, and I got lucky. The valves weren't hurt, and I was able rotate the two cams and crank with no problem. 2. The two cams when rotated are spring loaded and the left cam falls right on TDC. The right cam (rear) does not for some reason - it spring loads around 10, 2, and 5 o'clock. You have to gently rotate that cam to TDC before it falls on the 2 o'clock. Hope this helps the next person.
Glad it all worked out and thanks for sharing your experience with the repair!
sirry new here TDC? Timing..? sorry please advise
Great video! I replaced everything on my 2002 Avalon with the Aisin kit plus cam & crank seals and thermostat. Discovered that whoever was down there before used cheap parts, including a non-OEM thermostat installed with form-a-gasket sealant. Water pump was missing 2 bolts. Anyway, after watching your video several times, completed job, and the 3.0 started up fine but after a few minutes noticed a bad leak from one of the cam seals. Ugh. Removed everything again except the water pump, replaced the leaking crank seal (more carefully this time), and now all is good with the Avalon. BTW, the tip regarding the slack on the crank sprocket was very helpful. Thanks HMP!
Thanks for sharing your repair experience using the video as a guide! Just a FYI: Another future possible oil leak source that may fool you as a camshaft seal leak can come from the oil pressure sensor. The sensor is on the left bank by the lower timing belt cover.
Fortunately I am performing this on an engine stand with the new engine for a 1999 model. The timing belt proceeded to delaminate at 75mph going up a mountain pass in Wyoming 1,200 miles from my home. Piston fragments pierced my oil pan and littered the highway, but was still able to load and unload the car under power with zero oil on a Uhaul car dolly. Toyota for life, even though this is my first Toyota and it lasted 600 miles since I bought it haha.
Wow ... what bad news. Good luck with the new engine!
Just remember where everything goes so you put in back in the right place with the correct torques. Take lots of photos. This job costs around $900 at my local repair shops, half parts, half labor.
Good to know.
2001. Toyota. Tu dra. Timing belt. Replacment
it costs about $1500 for labor and parts to do this job!
Use to cost around $900. Takes me around 5 hours. @@ronbonora7872
Me too
I watched 4 times, incredible.
The volume went off couple times but, beautiful video.
You can have your own school.
I want to be the one holding the light.
Please let me know, at no change.
You guys are the best.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video. I like the name of your channel, it described how fast I did the job. I was hardly moving 😂 got it all done. 2nd timing belt but first one on a Toyota. I spun the crank 6 revolutions by hand to double check the timing marks before putting back together and it was all good! Running great now!
Thanks!
Glad to hear it went well and thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for this video!!! Will be doing this job soon. Car is leaking oil from crankshaft seal, thought we could simply replace the seal but looks like it’ll have to be entire timing belt kit.
More likely one of the cam seals. The oil works its way to the crankshaft.
My 99 Avalon has 220K and I have to do this pretty soon, to avoid a wrecker bill! Great video.
Thanks and good luck with the repair!
😆 Now i got the motivation to do my ES this summer! thanks brother! ✌️
Thanks for your comment! Here's a nightmare TB repair video link I did on a ES300, if interested: ruclips.net/video/KkjgBVxBaeU/видео.html
Thanks for showing the adjustment on the camshaft and crankshaft in order to properly install the timing belt. I could not figure out how to do this when I attempted to change the timing belt on this engine.
Excellent point! I've seen repair instructions state something like "install the belt" or videos where all of a sudden, the belt is on. The belt installation is the most critical ... the most important phase of the repair and everyone seems to gloss over it! Anyone can install the belt where the cam and crank alignments marks are fine ... but is there belt slack in between? Remove the slack by turning either the crank or cam and boom ... your off a cog.
You're good !!! I guess you already know. I'm just a regular check all basic stuff , but watching you showed me things I didn't know but now I have knowledge when my master mechanic explains and shows me what the issues with my 2001 Avalon and what needs to be done ,not much but with a little over 300,000 miles I have to stay on top of it ,you do great work and thank you.
Thanks!
This is great. Thank you very very much.
Took me about 7 hours, no fancy power tools.
1 and 7/8 outside diameter PVC pipe work great to reinstall the crankshaft seal.
To be honest I was a bit intimidated by the project but your video is great
Good for you and 👏 congrats!
Was it hard to get the balancer off?
@@trentdaddydolla647 not at all.
@@TAspeed1 oh ok thanks
@@trentdaddydolla647 I have read that you can attach a socket, breaker bar, extension so that ground contact is made. Confirm crankshaft turning direction and face bar so that when you crank the motor briefly, the setup will hold in place and loosens the bolt. Toyota guru Scotty Kilmer demonstrated it in one of his You Tube videos. This video is great and I appreciate the detail. Priceless reference
Swapping a similar engine. I will have to do all this while the engine is out. This has been very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to do this..
Glad you liked the video. With the engine out the job would be much easier.
Where are you located mr onyango
Great video. I just finished this job and I'd like to clear one item up that was a bit confusing to me. Between the FSM and in some online guides and how-to's you'll run across multiple methods for aligning the crankshaft (bottom sprocket).
Some will indicate that the dot on the sprocket should be aligned at the mark on the block at the 12 o'clock position while others will indicate that the dot on the sprocket must be turned to the 4 o'clock position and aligned with the mark on the belt. Here's the thing: both are right. There are two marks on the crankshaft sprocket. There is one on the thin plate that rides up next to block and the other is on the front face of the sprocket.
*Both dots need to be lined up!*. The one in the back of the sprocket that rides next to the block should align with the block mark at 12 o'clock and the one on the front face of the sprocket should align with the line on the timing belt. If they don't both line up, you've done something wrong and need to start over.
One more thing. The belt guide (bowl - shaped plate on the crank shaft) should go on between the crankshaft sprocket and the dust cover with the bowl side facing out.
Hope this helps. Thanks for the great video.
Now you know why applying paint marks on the new belt and pulleys makes the job go easier.
Excellent video. I'll be starting this job on Friday and this will save me a ton of time. Thanks.
Let us know how the job went!
I'm getting a 2002 solara from neighbor.. so this vid is key to my next project!
Good for you!
good explanation on Belt change, was able to see everything you did in the process . Thank you
You bet!
Your video made this job fairly simple. Thank you.
Thanks for your feedback!
Currently got a 95 camry with 268,000 miles. Original everything. Already done rear main seal boutta seal up everything else soon
1st timing belt replacement?
Thanks your video was the best one yet I’ve seen on doing the Timing belt you are a very good Mechanic thanks again was a lot of help
Glad it helped! Thanks!
Glad to see you are still at it Sir. I will try to come see you in a couple of months. I have a 1999 Lexus RX 300 . I need the timing belt, waterpump and other timing components changed out. This is Troy Kieffer. You did it for my 1998 Lexus ES300. Hope you and yours are all doing Great!
Thanks! Hope to see to again soon!
Thanks for posting these. It's such a huge service and confidence being able to have an instructor for any possible maintenance or repair on my vehicle. What size breaker bar do you find yourself using the most?
Glad to help! Check out this video to answer your question: ruclips.net/video/VXA6qguVnUY/видео.html
Adding some experience here, if you use a chain wrench like in the video. Put some steel wool between the teeth of the cam pulley and teeth of wrench, keeps the tool from marring the sprocket teeth. Great video
Good idea! Sometimes I cut a piece of an old belt and use that as covering.
I enjoy this video very much. I have this job pending on my 02 Avalon. Thank you
Best of luck!
Excellent work. Excellent video. Congratulations Man!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Seriously helpful, quality video! You might add the torque specs for the job in the description, and do some mini videos about tricks for situations like when the crankshaft pulley is jammed on there (that sprocket edge on this one is seriously easy to bend and cant be flattened back out without the teeth shattering right off it), torquing the crankshaft bolt back on properly, and so on. SUBSCRIBED!
Thanks for sharing!
Great video! No jabbering on, down and to the point!
Thanks!
Excellent work and an even better instructional video! Thanks for posting!
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@hardlymovingpro I'm looking forward to using this video as a step-by-step reference when I do my '02 Highlander!
Thank you, this was a huge help and it worked great! You are an amazing teacher!
Glad it helped!
An Unbelievable video! Exceptional explanation! Thank you! 🎉😮. Incredible!
You're very welcome!
Thanks, one of the best video's i've seen to do this job!
Thanks!
Dude you are a great mechanic. Very thorough.
Thanks and glad you found the video useful!
Thank you!! You just saved me about $500
Good for you!
Very nice video. Well executed repair. Good tutorial.
Glad you liked it!
Great video!! You sound like bill murray by the way!!! That made the video even better haha
Thanks!
Thank you for the great step by step tutorial
Glad it was helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro do I need to you the cam seal special install tool? Or can I use a socket or universal install tool/PVC pipe?
THANK YOU for including a list of tools used. Wish more mechanics would do that at least for the non "standard socket set" tools.
I've done a Subaru Forester (4 cam gears to align), and really wish I'd thought of the clamp thing to hold the belt in place.
You're welcome! You did a 4 cam timing belt job? Check this video out where I'm installation a new w/p and belt on a Mitsu 3000GT with 4 cams: ruclips.net/video/FTp_tVXSbqU/видео.html
@@hardlymovingpro Yep, gotta love timing belts long enough to (almost) stand up in due to boxer engine.
Just did this, thanks to your vid. Would not have tried without it.👍👍👍 Thank you.!!!
Great news and congratulations!
Best video ever, very needed, fully helpful
Glad you liked it!
Fantastic video. Really helped me, thank you!!!
You bet!
Excellent video! Well done. Semper Fi.
Thank you, Semper Fi!
Going to do this job on my solara this weekend. Going to use this video as a guide. Doesn't seem like a tough job. I've done timing belts on civics and accords. Wish me luck
I would say that the Civic is more time consuming to perform than Toyota's V6. Published a video a few weeks back on how to do it.
Very good job.with good make point.and professional.
Thanks!
Damn! You make it look too easy, I need to do all this and more to change the head gaskets.
I guess I'm going to have to get one of those chain thingies.
Chain strap wrench used by plumbers. Should be available at your hardware store. I provide a Amazon link in the description of this video. Good luck!
Great video, that job was like a work of art.
Glad you liked it and thanks for you post!
Need to do this repair soon on my car, seems pretty intimidating for me having never done this job myself!
Take it slow!
Very helpful, nicely explained step by step procedure 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks! Glad you liked it.
Thankyou for a really awesome and easy to follow video.
Currently installing the timing belt. Everything is lined up. But once I spin the engine twice, the top two mark align but the crankshaft marks don't.
I don't understand what I'm doing wrong?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
On the V6's with automatic belt tensioners, there's no need to rotate the engine after belt installation. Just make sure there is no belt slack between the cams and the crank pulleys. The ratio difference between the cam and crank pulleys is why the alignment marks on the belt will not realign with the pulley alignment marks after rotation.
Sorry just so I understand, the alignment at 13:38. The two orange dots. Once the engine is rotated, they wont align. While the top camshafts align.
So That's not a issue correct?
Thankyou for the help again
Yes. Not an issue. However you should double check the cam and crank alignment marks with their respective backing plate and engine block alignment marks after rotation.
@@hardlymovingpro
Thankyou, all done, driving great.
Only issue is when I drive short distance engine light is coming on. Cars driving normal no issues.
But when I switch the car off and then back on its gone. Cars got no obd port which is amazing.
WOW! If only this could actually be done in 18mins LOL
The wonders of video editing! FYI - It's takes us an average of 1 hour of editing to produce 1 minute of video.
Is it a must to replace the seals or is it just smart since it's all taken apart? I'm going to replace my water pump and this video has helped so damn much!
The seals do wear out and leak on this engine.
It’s not the job itself that gets to me it’s the lack of tools that I have to do the job 😂😂
I hear you. Power tools makes the job easier and go faster.
gracias por el video, yo estoy trabajando en un lexus es300 98 y ahi la llevo, aunque no tengo torque para la bonba de agua, pero algo se podra hacer. y de echo iba a conseguir la llave thor de 5.5 mm donde emgancha la bonba pero usted no quito esos tornillos
Sí. Simplemente apriete a mano los pernos de la bomba de agua de 10 mm con una llave de trinquete de 1/4" usando la torsión de muñeca.
i love the name of the production,lol!..my business name is meticulous mike's plumbing and heating,electrical,etc..i'm thinking about adding the extra slogan to my ad 'the not so punctual plumber,etc..',lol!..i may not be on time but i get er' done right the first time..i like the speed of the footage and the voice to go along with it.great job!..now let me what the rest and see if it helps me with my situation.thanks.
How about "Just in time plumbing service"?
Very nice very clean step by step good video
Glad you liked it!
Excellent video, as usual. I have done 2005 honda pilot timing belt replacement after seeing one of your video, i did it well. Thanks. I was unable to remove crank pulleY key(woodruff key) to replace crank seal, it was so stubborn, i used chisel and had no luck, then i didnot replaced crank seal, do u have any tips about how to remove such stubborn crank key from crankshaft. If you dont have answer then i dont think anybody has. I always learn something from your video everytime i watch .. Thanks for it..
Thanks for your post and kind comments! I've had the same problem before with the woodruff key that I was able to remove with mild chisel taps. Don't understand why you can't get yours out. Suggest you apply a little propane torch heat, then some chisel taps.
See if that'll nudge it out.
Amazing video! Thank you!!
You bet!
Wonderful video every step was helpful from a to z the only question I had from where should I get the cam shift holder tool the one with chane, thanks
Thanks! A Amazon link to the chain strap wrench should be in this video's description area.
Thank you from the bottom of my heart
You bet!
Thanks really awesome video.
Now I can do it for my car
Glad it helped!
Cool video as always 👍 Made my job easier referencing to your videos for my 94 ES300 😁
Good for you!
That a lot of work I'd have to outsource that to the professionals
It just looks that way.
Great video!! Unfortunately you forgot to tighten the second bolt for the power steering pump bracket.
Good call!
I retract my last comment. It was unnecessary and I apologize. You know what you are doing and I appreciate the video.
Is it true that there are paint marks on the belt that align with the timing marks on pulleys?
I am look forward to doing this on my Camry
Correct.
I can see the years of experience👨🔧🛠 shining through thanks for sharing I don’t know if I’d tackle this it’s little more involved than I like to do👍
Thanks ... the hardest part of the repair (that gets me worked up all the time) is getting those 17 mm crankshaft pulley bolts loose using the long handled chain strap wrench and a cheater bar to get the leverage. So far, no mishaps! The cam can jump but I just re-position them after the seal's been replaced and the cam pulley re-installed.
@@hardlymovingpro I thought my A8 D2 timing belt change was silly because you had to remove the front bumper to access everything but this looks cramped so perhaps it wasn't such a bad design. Of course the v8 was a ton more complicated and $$$$.
You work very well, it's like an art form. 🎨
You can do my T-belt, no problem
Thanks!
Loved the video, very informative. Where did you find the chain tool to loose cam sprocket?
Thanks! Link to the chain strap wrench should be in this video's description. Otherwise, a well stocked hardware store should carry it in the plumbing department.
This looks like a pain in the rump. I totally respect mechanics for this kind of work because I do not have the patience.
Not too bad after doing enough of them.
Though I won't not do it myself, I really enjoyed this presentation. How long did it actually take? Also that tool used to to fill the coolant was...... wait for it... Cooooool. Tools tools tools.... Thanks and take care.
Glad you enjoyed it! I can do this job in under 5 hours. The coolant funnel works great to prevent spill over during the engine warm up process where trapped air bubbles are getting pushed out.
THANK YOU SO So So MUCH! What a GREAT video with such excellent TIPS! Following your excellent instructions I was able to do all of this on my '97 Avalon. Worked great! HOWEVER... Now I find the oil pump is failing. I should have replace it when I was doing the timing belt/water pump/seals but I didn't... SO, QUESTION... To do ONLY the oil pump I shouldn't have to do anything but remove tension on the belt and remove the crank pulley... In other words, do I need to do all the stuff to the "top end" or can I just do the bottom end items... I don't remember if the water pump is BLOCKING the oil pump or not... PLEASE ADVISE?! THANK YOU!!!
Are you referring to the power steering oil pump or the engine oil pump?
@@hardlymovingpro HI! I did the power steering pump at the same time as the rest already, so... The ENGINE oil pump itself. It seems I DON'T have to remove the camshaft pulleys, timing belt cover backing, etc... Just the lower timing belt cover, and enough to remove the crank pulley, RIGHT??? THANK YOU! It would be great not to have to remove the engine mount, bracket and all that or the water pump again! LOL!
@@aCam-ns2lm I'm confused. How do you know that the oil pump is detective and needs replacement?
@@hardlymovingpro HI! Thanks for taking the time to counsel me! I haven't checked the actual pressure yet but WILL do that before I start anything. However, the SYMPTOMS seems to indicate the oil pump is weak... Oil light flickers and sometimes stays on and there is an occasional knock and/or tick, especially when 'blipping' the throttle. NOT driving it because don't want to do any damage. Already dropped the oil pan and cleaned everything including oil pickup tube/screen. Plenty of good, clean, new, proper oil and filter. Just trying to think ahead/prepare! THANK YOU!
@@aCam-ns2lm start by checking or replacing the oil pressure sending unit. Also your knock sensors may be bad. Did you do a MIL / check engine light code scan?
As always I like watching ur videos 👍!
Glad you like them!
Excelente trabajo.. es mucho trabajo para una pum water ...
Gracias!
First time looking at this service done to the 1mzfe engine interesting 🤔 but at the same time complex maybe not for you anymore I've got this same engine in my 2000 solara v6 sle looks like a expensive job that's for sure great job though by the way
Looks tough but just follow the video and use the tools that I have. I figured out how to do this service on my own. And yes, the repair shops are charging big bucks and won't change the cams seals unless you ask them in advance.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the heads up about the seals i will remember that.i need a rack and pinion for my car but I'm still debating on if I should buy the part new or remanufactured any advice on that it would really be appreciated 👍
😮good job friend...
Thanks!
Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!