Timing Belt / Waterpump Replacement: Toyota & Lexus V6
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- Опубликовано: 24 май 2014
- Step by step DIY Video on how to replace the timing belt, waterpump, camshaft and crankshaft seals, idler pulleys and tensioner on a Toyota or Lexus with a V6 engine.
Procedure is the same for all 1994-2006 1MZ-FE (3.0L) and 3MZ-FE (3.3L) engines, with the newer engines differing only in the timing belt tensioner bolts.
Procedure is straight forward starting with the removal of the dog bone mount, engine support bracket, alternator and power steering belts, crank pulley (harmonic balancer) and timing belt covers.
Once access to the timing belt is achieved, the tensioner is released so the belt can be removed. The camshafts should be removed to get to the waterpump, otherwise two studs running through the waterpump have to be removed.
Special tools required are an impact wrench and air ratchet (not mandatory), a seal puller, a pulley puller, torque wrench, and a crankshaft and camshaft holding tool.
This job should take 4 hours for a DIY'er with moderate mechanical aptitude. The Aisin timing belt kit with waterpump from RockAuto was used.
After the removal of the cam and crank bolts, the hardest part of this job was dealing with the rear camshaft seal and aligning it with the marks on the timing belt. Access is tight near the fender wall and removing the power steering fluid line and reservoir is recommended.
The AISIN Timing belt kit can be found here on Amazon:
amzn.to/309Udve (US)
amzn.to/2XN3M5J (Canada)
The Cam holding tool can be found here:
amzn.to/2XPNQjb (US)
amzn.to/2LDWX03 (Canada)
The seal puller can be found here:
amzn.to/2JdTVxV (US)
amzn.to/2RSOpn3 (Canada)
Harmonic balancer puller:
amzn.to/2RYrqHk (US)
amzn.to/2S3uRMZ (Canada)
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Авто/Мото
The AISIN Timing belt kit can be found here on Amazon:
amzn.to/309Udve (US)
amzn.to/2XN3M5J (Canada)
The Cam holding tool can be found here:
amzn.to/2XPNQjb (US)
amzn.to/2LDWX03 (Canada)
The seal puller can be found here:
amzn.to/2JdTVxV (US)
amzn.to/2RSOpn3 (Canada)
Harmonic balancer puller:
amzn.to/2RYrqHk (US)
amzn.to/2S3uRMZ (Canada)
Good morning, I accidentally turned the crank before installing the new Timing Belt. Top dead center has been set before removing the old Timing Belt.
can I turn the crank 360 lined up with the mark without the belt attached to it?
Brooo where are you
Jithinkakkur Kakkur Atlanta! I’ve figured it out and everything is all good!
@@joonajks ok broooo. God bless you
I'll be doing this to my highlander. How long did this take?
I watched five separate repair videos on this subject from hour long professionals to 30min beginners. I'm a fair mechanic but I was about to give up. Stumbled on to this 15 min video and instantly knew this guy knew what he was talking about, and more importantly, he knew how to explain it so well I could clearly understand it. The best RUclips video on auto repair I've seen, ever.
This is without a doubt one of the best car repair videos I've ever seen. No bs, good edits, good info. Thanks!!
Thank you very much for your feedback!
I totally agree. Going to do my 98 ES300 This weekend. Wish me luck.. I am sure it will be fine. I am setting aside the whole day to Git-R-Done..
Is Everything Pretty ,Much the Same for the 3.3 Eng.? Great Video& Does the Crank & Cam Seals Come W/ the Aisin T.Belt Kit? Tks in Advance
Robert Martin - how did it turn out??
I can't believe how many deviations and confusing instructions the Haynes manual gives compared to your simple method.
It might have been good to list how to torque the harmonic balancer down though at the end for those without access to an air gun.
I also do maintenance videos on my channel so I know just how much extra time this would have taken you to film and edit so you could share your knowledge.
You've done a great job!
Thanks!
大家好
Of all the timing belt videos I've seen I must say this is the clearest, straightest one yet. Simple, no bs. Very close up and detailed. I have a different type engine (1UZFE V8) but the basics on removal and aligning the belt are the same. Great vid.
+smithraymond09029 Thank you for the feedback. I'm glad you like my style, short and to the point. No need to bore the audience with BS.
"simple no bullshit" but the water pump is driven by the timing belt Hahaha.
I assume the 1UZFE is for the LS400? If so, was the process the same? Thanks.
Thanks for this video. Changed a V6 Camry timing belt/water pump/tensioner for the first time. Took about 4 hours from start to finish wit this well detailed video.
I'm glad the video helped!
You saved yourself about 800
It only took you 4 hours? Wow! I thought it would be around 1-2 days. Maybe it’s my ocd kicking in lol
Among the best DIY videos up here - yours are clear, precise, and perfectly edited. Thanx for not wasting my time with blah blah blah blah blah!!
Thanks for the feedback!
O ya, excellant, by far the best explanations with actual doing (not just "saying" what I can read in a manual!).
speedkar99 hey man im doin this job on a 1990 lexus es 250 with v6 engine i line up the mark on the main engine pulley but the ones on the cam pully wont line up there is one mark already on the cam pulley do all 3 have line up because they wont on this car
aldo garay -
Turn the engine over one more revolution. it is a 4 cycle engine, depending on your starting point, you may need to turn more than one revolution to line up the marks. It is top dead center #1 you must reach to line up the cam pulleys.
You definitely have a good approach to the repair process without all the extraneous b.s. One of the best videos I've seen
Thank you for the most useful video on RUclips. I did my 2000 Avalon almost exactly as shown: 10 hours with preparation, lunch and cleanup. I found it easier to drain and removed the power steering reservoir so I could move that hose out of the way; my fluid was brown anyway. Also, I had a third pinch screw holding my alternator. Your most useful comment was on how to remove the crank screw using the starter motor. Brilliant. When I loosened the screw, I did not disconnect the ignition; I used my unchipped key which turns the engine but does not inject fuel. Thanks again!
I'm glad it worked out for you and your car is up and running again.
I like the idea of using the 'unchipped' key. That might come in handy when I perform my replacement. Also will keep in mind draining the power steering fluid.
Great job with the filming and editing. Honestly, I don't understand why someone would dare to dislike this video.
+DIY OneForAll glad it helped. They'd dislike it because it's above thier mechanical skill...which we can't help.
Your right.. I do maintenance in my vehicles and if it happens to replace the belt I'll follow the procces in this video. It's all clear
@@speedkar99 Before watching your video, I could not spell MECHANIC...….NOW I are one!!! Great Job man, thank you so much. Don't let the goof balls get to you. Many of us appreciate your help.
OP doesn't realise that people will do things just because they can
Just wanted to say thanks for breaking the job down. I'm no master mechanic, so I was nervous messing with the timing belt. You're video was perfect. Not painfully over detailed, just a quick overview of the steps involved. I didn't bother with the cam seals, cuz my Camry has 307K. and I really didn't want to shell out $800 at a shop. parts were only $142, so you SAVED me about $650! Thanks again!
+Max Bloom Hey I'm glad the video helped you out. Short and to the point is my style.
If the camseals weren't leaking them yea you could skip them. Surprise they aren't at 307k though.
Excellent video. I did this about a decade ago on my 94 Camry - without such an amazing video tutorial. Although it still took about a week of spare moments this time, this video made it 100 times easier. THANK YOU!
Man, I would pay to watch any video you make. This really is the best “how to” I’ve seen on RUclips. Thank you for all of the work you did!
Thanks for the great video on the Toyota Lexus (equivalent to Camry V6 and Avalon). I've successfully changed the timing belts, other engine belts, and water pumps. Your video was very helpful and key source in practical learning about timing belt replacement at my 2000 V6 Camry XLE with 203K miles. Did not hit any hickup; I've just had some delay due to not having stud remove/install tool (had to wait while my car stayed open until the tool arrived). Good to mention that it likely take 2 days for first timer like me.
Key reason I decided to repair my car myself is I've get ripped off a few times while trying to service my car from dealer or repair shop. Can not find any reputable/trustable shop in NJ.
I would like to encourage your continue putting new auto repair video.
Thanks
I'm glad my video was helpful for your TB job. I Didn't have to take off the studs because I took off timing cover #3 that covered the water pump housing and it slid straight off. Most of the time those torx on the end of the stud strip or break off.
One of the very best DIY videos I have seen! It nice you edit out all the unnecessary "watch me back this bolt out 150-turns" or "watch me turn this bolt back in 150-turns"!!! Great job on the video and including the little tips along the way.
Thank you for the feedback. Short and simple is my style :)
Just finished my water pump and timing belt change on my 99 toyota sienna. I bought it for very little because the previous owner did not want to invest between 800-1000 dollars to repair the problem it was having. She did park it as soon as it was having issues though, so the engine had not been damaged in any way and still had plenty of life in it in my opinion.
I'm a backyard mechanic, but I'm far more used to motorcycles, scooters, and big old ford trucks. We have a Toyota corolla that's been a trooper, but I really haven't had to work on it too much. I have changed a timing chain driven water pump on a Pontiac before, so I wasn't completely intimidated, though this is a tedious and high risk job.
Well, I just finished and I must say that it couldn''t have gone any more smoothly than it did, and I believe that was 90% due to this Terrific Video. This is the best produced and least boring, most straight to the point and accurate repair video I have ever watched. Thank you so much for helping me to get my family a vehicle that we needed for a fraction of the price of what it would have cost if it was in perfect working order!! I saved a bunch on the parts I ordered as well, so I turned a 1000 dollar job into a 150 dollar job! I own the repair manual, and I didn't look at it once...didn't need to. KEEP MAKING REPAIR VIDS PLEASE!! You Rule MAN!!!
+David Rhineheimer Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm glad my video helped! My style is to produce videos that are concise and to the point and just present what is important and necessary.
Holy cow that looks like it would take lots of tools, time and patience!!!
As long as you plan it, gather all your tools, and label everything it should go smoothly. You can complete this job in a few hours.
Man just want to give you a shout out. I've done quite a bit automotive-wise, but have never desired to tackle this project on my 97 Avalon. This video was so precise, I only broke out the Chilton manual for torque specs. It's really not a bad process at all, but there are a few things I learned I wanted to share.
First of all, if you have a 97 Avalon, DON"T BUY THE TIMKEN CRANK SEAL (224020) on Rockauto! It is too "tall". When fully seated, it sticks out of the hole so much that you cannot seat the timing gear fully back. Timken's website will tell you it will fit you 97, it will not, their measurement says it is .317"! The felpro seal that came out was .25" tall. Just be aware and always compare the old part with the new. I failed to do that this time and got bit.
I ended up buying a Lisle 58430 Oil Seal Remover tool. I had all those seals out in seconds. The cam seals were the originals. I also made a crank seal seater from a 1.5" PVC pipe and pipe coupler. Fits perfectly! I used a 1.5" metal pipe nipple for the cams, but the 1.5" PVC pipe may have worked too.
Use oil to help seat the seals! I always used oil in the past, but got some bad advice to use white lithium grease and thought I'd try it this time. I'm sure it works for some seal applications, but the grease reacted with the rubber and got sticky!
I had a problem removing the water pump, thought I might have to jack my motor up. Turns out the water pump gasket is just thick enough to prevent you from pulling the pump out if they are stuck together. Separated the gasket from the pump and it slid out.
An impact wrench really helps with the crankshaft bolts.
I waited until the new timing belt was on to torque down the camshaft bolts, I didn't want to risk moving them any without the belt on.
Anyway, you saved me 450 in labor, and I appreciate it!
+MrTurboBiscuit I'm glad I helped you do the job and saved you money. Thanks!
thanks for the tips
Omg finally a perfect instructional video! Short and sweet and beautifully edited. And what I mean is no wasted time explaining, no dead air. I've done MANY timing belts and research for future jobs, this is the best.
+Chris Gutierrez Thank you, short and to the point is my style.
this is why we have professionals working on cars great job
Thanks
Followed this video step by step and had no problem changing the water pump on my 95 avalon. Much appreciated man. This helped me alot.
Thanks, glad my video could help :)
I am a motor technician, your procedure on the video is really good,you get a lot of videos and you can tell that they are kids playing the mechanics,just two notes,torque on cam and cranck pulley bolts also wheel nuts,apart from that you are a real mechanic.thanks.
I'm not a real mechanic.... I just like working on my cars and do the job properly.
I've had bad experiences with torque wrenches in the past - if I can get away with it (i.e. not a gasket surface like Water-pump or valve cover) then I just use my calibrated hand :) .
torque wrenches come in different sizes,
1/4,3/8,1/2.therefore every bolt has to be torque ,experience is ok when resources are limited or brake down somewhere in the bush,
a cranck pulley bolt with the wrong torque specs.could develop a cranckshaft damaged,once the pulley gets a minimum free play the end gets damaged and that means engine disassembly,if it is a Honda new cranckshaft plus color code bearings;
wheel nuts not to loose not too tight just right,
torque is a professional signature to all your work,please don't get me wrong just a note to
make you look even better.thanks.
Your videos are filmed, narrated, and edited perfect as far as I'm concerned..no fluff just the facts and I REALLY appreciate you giving the exact size and count of every bolt you pull out. I pretty much had the right pile of tools next to me when I got started. I think this the first ever comment I've given any video on youtube but credit needs to be given here. Timing/water pump/cam seals service is the real deal.. I've done it before on another make/model, but would have taken me 3x longer w/o the specifics of your video. Still trying to figure out how you did it in 14 and a half minutes ;-)
Thank you, good work!
Thank you very much for your feedback, I appreciate it. My video style is to be straight and to the point, I hate digression.
I took roughly 8 hours to do this job including the filming, 4 hours one day and 4 hours the next. I had all the tools on hand, and had one past experience from a previous failed attempt on my Lexus.
Great video. I really dig your straight to the point style.
I was nervous about doing this job and was seriously thinking of taking it to a mechanic to get this done but this video gave me a boost of confidence.
Yep I was in the same position a few years ago... hesitant to replace a timing belt.
I tried and screwed up (wrong torque settings) on my first car but eventually got this one to work out smoothly.
I must say that your video actually motivated me to do it myself. I was very close to paying someone to do it for me. The detail and quality of your video was excellent. I was just being lazy. But It saved me $250. thanks 👍😎
+toyspeed71 Glad it helped.
At 5:50 minutes you say that the rear cam pulley does not need to come off to change the water pump. On my 2002 Camry LE the two rear bolts for cover #3 are under the pulley. I found this out after removing the belt. Had to stick a 12mm deep socket and ratchet through the spokes of the pulley to slip over the back 10mm bolt to keep the pulley from turning. Then I broke it loose with the cheater bar and 14mm socket. Also, as mentioned in another comment, my alternator has a 3rd jam bolt on the sliding mechanism that needs to be loosened to lower the alternator. Thanks for the fantastic video. It was a life saver.
Those two 10mm can be removed thru the sprockets
Then timing cover #3 can pivot up around the rear cam
I watched about six videos in the last 3 hours.. this was by far the most detailed clearly detailed video without an hour worth of commercials and stories that have nothing to do with anything.
Thank you! But now that that's all said and done I'm pretty sure I'm just going to sell the vehicle 🤣
great video. It's interesting to watch a skilled mechanic at work.
+oobeach thanks. I'm not a mechanic though.
That was the best tutorial I've watched on this yet! Great Job Thank you so much!!!
Thanks :)
I've done 4 cylinder timing belts, water pumps and even head gaskets before, so I do know how to wrench a little, but have been hesitant to do a 6. I paid my buddy last time to do my belt and water pump for $250 (labor) , but I think the $250 will be better in my pocket this time. I have all the tools to do the job and thanks to u and another guy on here. I have all the confidence in the world now to do my 6 cylinder and to make my job even better my buddy has a lift I can use, it beats being outside in 30 degree weather for for 3-4 hours. Thanks for the video!
+LittleJimmyNorton Glad the video helped and encouraged you to tackle the v6. It's not as easy as the 4 banger but it's not difficult either.
Just a little more time and patience. Just curious, how long did it take u? Whatever it took u, I can probably ad an hour to mine, at least. Will also give u an update after I do the job in a couple days.
Thanks for the video; did 01 Avalon (belt , idlers and tensioner only) took about 3 hours.
I uses 2 inexpensive plastic tipped metal clips to hold T-belt on the cam sprockets. Due to the slack and stiffness of the new belt, it was necessary to advance BOTH cam sprockets 1/2 tooth clockwise to engage belt on the crank pulley at the mark.
The installation sequence that worked for me:
With tensioner out and belt loosely on the sprockets, align mark on the belt to the mark on the 1-3-5 cam sprocket (firewall) and secure belt to it with spring clip; next, do the same with 2-4-6 (radiator) cam sprocket and lastly do the crank sprocket. If belt looks "too short" during this step, place 17 mm socket wrench on the 2-4-6 sprocket and slowly tun it 1/2 tooth clockwise. Both sprockets will move with the belt, thanks to the clips. After engaging belt with crank sprocket screw the tensioner in while holding the belt on the crank sprocket. Finally, release the tensioner holding pin and remove clips form the cam sprockets. These clips will eliminate frustration caused by belt jumping off the sprocket marks during installation (Sorry, too much medical weed:))
+mkrp4 Thanks for your story. Glad the video helped
I think this is the best video I've ever seen mechanical wise ! because of your good steady! And audio quality
+Jim Pelley Thank you
Great video, thanks for the thorough review. Because of your clear instructions I was able to do this job myself and save about $600. Thanks! ~Ken
+Ken Quast I'm glad it helped! Thanks
I watched this video next day I replaced my tbelt and w pump.
If I saw it before I made it I would do so many mistakes that took a lot of time.
Great video.
Glad it helped. Wish I had a guide like this before screwing up my first timing belt job on my Lexus ES330!
Straight to the point, simple steps, clear instructions, and no stupid intro. Keep it up!
awesome video dude....you make me feel more comfortable doing the job....I've been working on cars for 15 years but timing belts are probably the only pain in the ass job on a car
+Jedi Knight Thank you. All the best on your timing belt job.
This is a very good, thorough how to video.
Great video! One tip for others. I couldn't get the crankshaft bolt loose. I used my impact, tried the breaker bar while cranking the engine, even bought a stronger impact.
I ended up buying a Lisle 22mm harmonic balancer bolt socket. It has much more mass than a regular impact socket and can impart more force to the bolt. It took a few tries, but it finally got that stubborn bolt loose. They are $26 on Amazon. Well worth the money IMO. Just make sure you have a powerful impact wrench to use with it. I used an earthquake xt maximum torque impact wrench.
And this is a 1000 job at Lexus 😢. My mom took it there in 2019. She never maintained the car other than oil changes. Now I have the car and been doing all the maintenance myself. 😊
Good move. Much cheaper and you'll learn about the car.
Great job !! Thanks for taking the time to make this detailed and clear video. I'll be sure to reference it when I replace my timing belt.
+Mike “Mr. Razcob” B Thanks for the feedback :)
It's not the removal that would scare me. It's the putting it all back together correctly that would scare the crap out of me.
i have looked at other videos on how to replace water pump on these cars and they made it so complicated thinking i was just going to take it to the shop, but with this video you make it look so easy, GREAT JOB!
Thanks. Take your time and have all the tools on hand before starting and everything should go smoothly. Good luck!
I just want to say thanks for this video. I changed my timing belt about 4-5 years ago and it ended up taking me 3 days! It could have been hours if I had seen this video first!
One thing I would note is that when removing the water pump, the STUDS in there have an inverted torx or something like that on them and can easily round off. I rounded one of them off and needed a STUD REMOVER to get it out. Also, when installing the studs, you should put a bit of thread sealer (white paste, not loctite) so the coolant doesnt leak from studs.
One other thing I recall is when I put on my new timing belt, for the LIFE of me I could not get the marks to all line up on the new belt. It was always about 1 or 2h teeth off, and would not all 3 line up. Long story short after wasting about 4 hours trying everything, I finally read on one of the Toyota nation forums as long as the belt is properly seated and NOT skipping any teeth, then disregard the lines. So after wasting half a day I went back out there, lined everything up and made sure it was seated properly and just ignored it. It ran fine after that...
mooseboy84 Thanks for the feedback. Removing the waterpump studs are a pain and that's why I opted to remove the cam gears and timing cover #3 instead. The teeth alignment aren't dead accurate, but shouldn't be a whole tooth off. It depends on the angle that you're looking at the belt and mark when aligning. Perhaps your cam and crank marks were mixed up or the belt was backwards.
That was the best I've seen yet, you are awesome!
Karen Sok You need to use a camshaft holding tool or a 17mm socket to hold the camshaft in its timed position while slipping the belt on. I started on the rear camshaft and used a clip to hold the belt in place against the gear, then worked my way across the idler, front cam, down the water pump, around the crank leaving the slack at the tensioner.
HI, in the starter bump method; i have 99 camry; where and how and what do i need to dissconnect so that car dont start??anyone?
+Alex Mendoza Just remove the efi fuse or the coil pack connectors on the front of the engine.
ok, thanks;;; I have the belt off , putting a new one; i turned the crank to TDC; but cams are not aligned TDC; can i turn cams individually untill they are TDC; does car need to be in neutral?
I could not get the belt onto the crankshaft pulley and align it with the mark on the crankshaft pulley. The following procedure worked for me:
Before you even took anything apart you should have pressure washed the entire area where you will be working.
Taking care not to blast off labels, useful information, and wiring conduits, pressure wash every thing you can reach in, around, and under the right side of the engine compartment. That caked on oil and dirt you miss is what will invariably later land in your face, in the seals, in the bolt holes, and wherever else it can do the most damage.
Jack the front end at least six inches off the ground, put jack stands under the engine frame, remove the right front tire, and pressure wash everything you couldn't reach before. That's what I do first: I do not enjoy working on filthy cars or engines and you either being it to me clean or pay for me to clean it.
For everyone else who already has everything apart and is ready simply to install the timing belt (belt),
Topside:
remove the top idler, put it on the engine cover within easy reach.
put the belt on (new ones come with timing marks, figure out which marks are for the camshaft (cam) pulleys and position the new belt accordingly,
align the rear belt mark with the rear cam pulley mark,
clip the belt to the rear cam pulley at the mark,
do the same on the front cam pulley,
turn the front cam pulley clockwise and hold tension against the rear cam pulley (the front camshaft will kick to hold tension against the rear cam pulley),
Underneath:
use the slack to get the belt mark to align with the crankshaft (crank) pulley,
clip the belt mark to the crank pulley mark and verify all the belt teeth are engaged on the crank pulley,
Topside:
put the top idler where you can easily reach it,
rotate the front cam pulley counterclockwise to pull belt slack where the top
idler goes, and
install the top idler.
Verify that all three belt marks are exactly aligned with the pulley marks and there is no slack between the front cam pulley and the crank pulley (at least not one tooth of slack).
Pull the pin to release the belt tensioner.
All three belt marks must perfectly align with the corresponding pulley marks.
If not, remove the belt tensioner, reset it in a press, reinsert the pin, reinstall the tensioner, shift the belt to align wherever the belt mark is not aligned with the pulley mark, pull the pin on the belt tensioner and verify that all three belt marks are aligned with the corresponding pulley marks.
50 YEARS UNDER MY BELT TURNIN WRENCHES,GOOD VIDEO YOUNG MAN,DONT FORGET YOUR MARKS ,ALWAYS REPLACE CAM SEALS,ALWAYS BUY THE BEST TIMING BELT,DAYCO,GATES,HENLY,ETC
Why should I buy the official Toyota Service Manual book? When I can just watch your RUclips channel. Excellent detail instruction video in less then 15 minutes...
The book is a good guide especially for torque specs
Goad you learned something
THANKS DUDE YOU BOUT TO SAVE ME UPWARDS OF $600 DOLLARS!!
Whoa!
Share the savings 😉
Nicely edited, thanks.
Hands down most detail and informative DIY if seen in years! Thanks
One of the best if not THE best "how to" videos ever made.
Nice job...you make it look smooth
Hey, thanks for the effort, and great editing skills. Please let me know when one of your neighbours homes are for sale!
+Bruce Stuart. Thanks. Heh I'm looking for a house for myself around this area too ... :)
I'm looking for a house next door too or across the street :)
Excellent video. I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 with a 1MZFE, and this video proved to me, that I will not be doing this work myself. Thank you for this video!
Just wanted to say thanks a bunch for making this video. I was able to change my timing belt, water pump and crank/cam seals in my Lexus es300. I'm not a mechanic, so your video was extremely helpful. To people reading this that are thinking of trying to change theirs 1) If you can't get the crank bolt out using the bump method like me, use heat on the bolt until it's a dull red (then bump). That is the only way I could get mine to break free 2) Using a dental pick can help get stubborn seals out. 3) Don't over tighten bolts! Look up the torque specs and go buy a torque wrench. I broke a stud on my water pump and had a hard time getting it out to put a new one in. 4) When putting the new belt on, you might have to rotate the top right cam 1 cog off to the right, top left cam 1/2 cog off to the right, crank dead on. When the tensioner is released on the belt, it pulls the 2 cam cogs back into the right place. Thanks again Speedkar!
Thanks for the feedback and tips. I too broke an idler bolt (and later the water pump bolts) on my first timing belt job on my Lexus. It was a horrifying experience, but you learn from your mistakes and move on.
Great Video. Concise and to the point. Easy to understand.. Thank you
+Robert Martin Thanks
Thank you, you are very skilled at this, wow you make it look
Easy....wish I had you skills.... Keep those videos coming.
Thanks
Thank you
I've watched a lot of DYI videos. This is definitely one of the clearest and best. Well done.
+Dave Cottrell thanks glad you enjoy my style
Hello. Thanks for this very informative DIY video. (I also followed your valve cover gasket replacement video to do my valve covers). I started out wanting to just install the Aisin TKT-024 kit, cam/crank seals,ignition wire and plugs, front brake pads and rotor, and front struts on my 2000 Camry with ~245,000 miles. But I ended up doing those plus valves cover gaskets, thermostat, and radiator hoses.
I really appreciated paint can opener tool trick. I was able to remove the cam seal for cylinders 1,3,5 pretty easily with only that tool. But for the other cam seal, because there wasn’t enough space to work with, I first inserted the paint can opener into position. Then I put one end of a length of ½” conduit against the opener handle. Finally, I used a hammer and with a couple of hard taps, the seal came right off. (Not sure though if there would be enough room for this method without removing the fuel injection plenum.) A bonus is that the paint can opener tool didn’t put a scratch on the cam shaft. For the crank seal, I used 2 paint can openers and a gear puller. I actually worked nicely. Here is a link to pictures:
drive.google.com/folderview?id=0Bxgs7wi0I7SbN0pIMkU1QmNHVWM&usp=sharing
Hope it helps.
Thanks for the reply. I like your paint can opener method with the conduit, I wish I could have used that trick when I was doing the rear cam seal, but I wasn't doing the valve cover gasket at the same time so I'm not sure if it would have cleared the plenum. Thanks for the idea though, good thinking :)
wow !!! crystal clear tutorial, excellent work ! thanks
FGX318 Thanks!
Great video , thanks for taking the time :)
Thanks
This is why changing timimg belt/water pump/front oil seals etc., on front wheel drive transverse engine cars is expensive, a lot of dissasembly needed just to get access, excellent video and commentary. (I drive a 1990 Volvo 240 and this job is a doddle on my car by comparison!) Thank you for your excellent series.
Thanks.
The disassembly is regardless of engine for this job
You’re the best diy auto repair chanel. Learning to fix my own car by watching your video 10x lol
Thanks. Make sure you watch my teardown videos to learn how to break things too haha!
Great job, great video. Thanks!
This is a very good video. Just wished you you would have stressed the importance of actually using a torque wrench on the crank, cams, idler, and tensioner bolts. Keep up the great work.
Torque wrench 🤣
I have one built in my arm
Stopped by to get a freshen up in how to do these. Been a minute since I seen this engine or had to work on one. Great video! ✊🏾
Glad it helped! Sometimes I look back at my old videos just for a refresher too
Good job, I replace CVVT units on customers' Volvos all the time but today did my first and probably only Lexus. This video made it a breeze! Thanks much. Great editing, well put together video in a sea of crap DIY content. For example, when I went to change the fuel pump in the tank of my Suburban, RUclips was full of videos showing how to cut a giant hole in the floorpan.
pvc pipe? Do you have a tool for everything.
Great video, thanks! I'll be taking my RX400h to the dealer for this!
+Bob Galvan Thanks for the feedback. The RX400h is a bit different in that it uses the 3MZ V6 but doesn't have accessory belts.
Is the 04 es330 Very Similar to This, & What's the Recommended Mileage ,Prev.Owner of My 330 Did First T.Belt Change @ 74,350mls.?My Last 01 Toyota Tundra Was Similar in cc,Size ,but Rear Whl.Dr.& it Was 115,000mls.,but ,Of Course this Is Transverse Mtd.Eng .And A VVTI eng.
petersmonkey The highlander is exactly the same, with the small exception of the timing belt tensioner which has two bolts horizontally into the engine instead of vertically like in the video. Do it your self to save labor, if you have a backup car and some time. TB/WP usually run $700-$1000 at shops and dealers including parts. $250 for the parts from RockAuto.
Great video. You seem very comfortable and confident. Seems to me you've done this before and have no hesitation doing it again. Awesome work!
Yes I've screwed up once before so I knew what to look out for
fantastic video, thank you
forget this ill take it to the shop
LOOL
lmfao!
yup even though this is a good video but not step by step detailed process... thats what i am used to for this complicated work.
Mr. Desert it would be less expensive if you do it yourself
Not if he never gets it back together or apart for that matter....
I just did this job, thanks again for another great video. I would recommend that anyone who does this job to pay the extra $5.00 and get OEM camshaft/crankshaft seals from Toyota. I used some aftermarket ones and they leaked almost immediately after installing.
+doublet06 Thanks I'm glad it helped.
Best RUclips car repair video I have ever watched.
+David Parker It sure is. Thanks!
Great job. I needed this video. Don't pay attention on negative comments.....this awesome. .03-10-2019
Glad it helped
Great video, sir!
Thanks
@erik3423 I'm not familiar with Subaru engines. Is there a timing belt behind those pulleys? If so it could be a bad idler, tensioner or water pump bearing that should have been changed with the timing belt.
Very well done. I have done timing belt on my Subaru and Acura. With the Acura I had to do it over like 4 or 5 times for whatever reason and the 5th time, I had used a clip like you have in the picture to hold the belt to the cams. This spring I'll be doing my Lexus RX, so this video is going to make my life a lot easier. I do not have a cordless impact to break the crankshaft bolt, so Ill probably be using the starter bump method. Glad to see that you endorse this method as well.
I'm glad my video can be of help. Thanks
Christ. No wonder why they charged me $450 labor plus the parts. Money WELL spent.
$450 sounds about right for labor.
First of all, thank you so much for this great video! Secondly, a couple errors I noticed: the torque spec for the water pump bolts is 53 in-lbs according to the manual. I snapped a bolt unfortunately. Also, replace the PS belt before replacing the upper timing belt cover. The PS pivot bolt is blocked by the cover. Minor detail: the cam shafts you are referring to are actually the cam sprockets. I also suggest adding the instructions to drain the PS fluid since it's very easy during this job. Again, great video and thank you!!
+Christopher Duncan Thanks I'm glad you enjoyed my video and thanks for the feedback.
in short i gave u 100% good work
Thanks
You really did an outstanding job with this video. Years later its helping me. Appreciate it!
Thanks
You are my hero. You explained it so clearly without taking long to do it. Thanks very much for going to the trouble.
You are welcome!
Hey, where did you buy your camshaft holding tool?
Princess auto (harbor freight equivalent in Canada)
Come to the USA and do my 2003 Lexus es300
Excellent video, there are camshaft seal removal/installation tools that make the job much easier and almost foolproof removing and installing the camshaft seals. They work nice in tight places.
+James Rairdon Thanks. The camshaft removal tool I got was too big to fit in the back seal, so the paint can opener had to make do. As for installing, next time I'll try using the old seal and camshaft sprocket to push in the new seal as I tighten the camshaft bolt.
This guy is a wizard with cars!
Thanks. I sure do work on many aspects of the car....from mechanical to electronics, to stitching armrests and cutting them up.
+speedkar99 pls never be offended. what is the name of that 90deg air tool used to loosen the bolts down there, can i get the amazon link? Thanks you doing a great job!
+Nzelum Chukwuebuka Air ratchet.
5:21 hahahahaha
Awesome video, well done mate!! Ignorant people who doesn't know anything about cars and whinges why major service cost so much should watch this video to realize how much labor is involved changing a timing belt and water pump.
+Chew My Fat Thanks
And yes there is alot of labor involved on the timing belt job, but at least its easier and more straight forward than changing valve cover gaskets haha.
Props to you. I can't believe how complicated the process is to service a wear item. This is why I stay away from engines with timing belts. That would literally take me days to finish and I'd probably nick one of the camshaft sealing surfaces in the process.
+Car Stuff with El Camino Guy Thanks. I guess that rules out alot of your car choices then. I don't think it's something to base your car purchasing on, if you don't want to DIY, then a TB labor job is about $500, typically once in the lifetime of the vehicle.
speedkar99
Not really. You're making assumptions that just aren't true. I've owned close to 20 vehicles in my life with the newest being a 2008 and none of them had timing belts. I have to say you're DEAD WRONG about considering the cost of servicing a car in a buying decision too. A grand to perform what is essentially a scheduled maintenance item is something you should know about before you buy the car. Most people own cars for more than 5 years now and 200K is not unusual mileage. With service intervals on timing belts ranging from 60K to 100K that's 2 to 3 changes at $500 to $1500 depending on the vehicle. Yeah, some are easier than other but if you're only getting $500 to do the one in the video I think you're not charging enough. Props for doing the work and you deserve every penny but I won't buy a car that costs that much to maintain a belt unless it's a Ferrari.
its a cam shaft sprocket not a cam shaft!!!! youre driving me crazy
+BrainStorm4207 agreed.
Changing the water pump is a bunch of bull from toyota.
+EP1CNELSON True because the timing belt is in front of it.
speedkar99
There is just so much to do, I had to help my friend because he couldn't afford to pay 1000 dollars to all the gauging mechanic shops to get it done.
THIS GUY IS AN AWSOME MECHANIC!!!!
I'm an engineer not a mechanic
great video. I did this on a 2001 highlander with the 3.0v6...original belt at the time was 13 years old with 230000km on it and it still looked good. it was starting to dry out a bit but I bet it would have kept going for a while yet. The waterpump also looked good for its age. only the tensioner idler bearing had failed and it was diagnosed as a bad waterpump. Quality parts and good design to minimize belt stress i guess. OEM does call for 90k mile interval (140k km) which is twice as long as many cars of the era
+MXSLICK Yea the belts can last longer than they call for but your living on borrowed time. On my 05 ES330 I changed the original belt at 185km. It was dusty under the cover but otherwise belt was in good shape.
Good Stuff, and thanks. Nice to see the photography is clear, [the view on the actual job is obscured] and good watch points. Beware when releasing the two 14mm headed long bolts into the upper engine mount that they're stretched tight. You need a good six point socket or you'll burr the heads.
you have THE BEST repair videos. you make me want to be a mechanic.
+wbutlers Haha thanks. All the best, I say start small with diy stuff first.
Replacing this today on my moms car, The aisin kit is really good. Also good to see another Canadian for once!
Thank you for this great video. I was responsible for about 20 of the views, it was well worth it. I had trouble of getting the 22mm bolt off of the cranckshaft, but a torch and bumping the starter helped, Rock Auto provided a Mitsubishi timing belt, which had the bottom marker 2 teeth higher then the original Toyota one, it took me a while to figure it out, but it works, just doesn't line up, the cams with the crankshaft does though. Thanks again, it was a huge help! A video on a brake proportion valve would be much appreciated.:)
+this real I'm glad you enjoyed it, and it helped with your timing belt job.
Thanks for the video idea I'll keep in mind.
Has to be one of the best part replacement videos I've ever seen!
Awesome