Timing Belt, Water Pump, Pulleys, & Seals - 1MZFE Lexus ES300 Redo Project - Stage 1
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This video is the first stage of a Lexus ES300 (3rd Generation) make over project and will show you, step-by-step, how to replace the timing belt, water pump, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, cam and crank seals. This car has over 160K miles, the timing belt had slipped, the water pump and pulleys seized, and many parts were either worn out or in need of replacement. The V6 1MZFE engine is shared with other Toyota based vehicles such as the: Camry V6, Solara V6, Highlander V6, Sienna, Avalon and Lexus RX300. Since the ES 300 engine ( 1MZFE) is shared with other Toyota vehicles, the service being performed on this vehicle can be duplicated on the V6 Camry, Avalon, Solara and other Toyota vehicles as well. This engine is not VVTI (valve interference engine found in the 3MZFE) so a broken timing belt can be installed with a new belt without worry of internal engine damage such as bent valves. To perform this procedure on the 3MZFE engine, refer to these videos (Sienna & Camry 3MZFE):
• Toyota Sienna V6 3MZ-F...
• Toyota Camry V6 3MZ-FE...
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Toyota 1MZFE Parts and Specialty Tool:
Timing Belt & Water Pump Component Kit (Good kit … comes with OEM Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Aisin Water Pump & GMB Bearings):
amzn.to/2VQsUE3
Aisin TKT-024 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
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Toyota 90311-38034 Seal, Type T Oil (Cam Seal)
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Toyota 90311-40022 Type-T Engine Crankshaft Oil Seal
amzn.to/2Lp0cIa
Bando OEM Power Steering Belt:
amzn.to/2U9qt2m
Bando OEM Alternator / AC Belt:
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Torque Strut Rod:
amzn.to/2TgJ4EV
DEWALT DW4901 1-Inch Crimped End Wire Brush:
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22 mm High Mass Harmonic Balancer Bolt Removal Socket
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OEMTOOLS High Mass 6 Piece Crank Bolt Socket Set, 6 Pack
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Camshaft Seal Removal Tool:
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Camshaft Seal Installation Tool:
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Telescoping 2" Round Inspection Mirror:
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Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease:
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Chain Strap Wrench:
amzn.to/2F6ODCo
Right Angle Portable Electric Drill (for the Wire Cup Brush):
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Wire Cup Brush:
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Oxygen Sensor Wrench:
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If you do not feel comfortable using a chain strap wrench to remove the camshaft pulley bolt, you can try using a universal pulley holder tool. You'll need to use this in conjunction with a "cheater bar".
OTC Universal Pulley Holder:
amzn.to/2HKUArb
Harmonic Balancer Puller Tool:
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Star / E Socket Set:
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Toyota Antifreeze Coolant:
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Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel:
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Powered Impact Tool (not the one I used, but less expensive quality corded version):
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Proud Lexus owner here! and I can say that nothing beats the quality build and long term performance of my 2005 ES330!!! Amazing
It's a tough car with a tough engine and transmission!
I love all of your videos. Straight to the point with plenty of detail. You don't waste viewers time with things like how to jack up a vehicle or a life story.
Thanks for supporting our channel!
I always marvel at the repair work people like you do on engines and transmissions. It's like a surgeon repairing a body. Not something everyone is wired to do.
Thanks! Takes both patience and perseverance.
Excellent how to! I will likely have to watch it over and over again before I even start then a few times to get it done. Thanks again!
Would like to commend you on the video, I showed this to a friend that wants to replace his own timing belt / pump / pullies etc. I have been wrenching for over 30+ years and have seen a lot of stupid repair videos, you did a really nice job on this. One comment- consider wearing gloves when using the chemicals, you will wish you had 20 years down the road, or maybe consider making videos instead of getting greasy. Good Job! I will pass this on to any friends that need guidance for T-belt on 1MZFE.
Thanks for your comment! This timing belt job was done down South in the middle of summer at over 90 degrees in the shade with humidity. In 2 minutes or less, perspiration "sweet" will begin pouring out of your gloves and start dripping on everything you're handling. Also, after you take the gloves off, you're skin will look all wrinkly like you've been in a swimming pool for 2 hours. Then when your gloves tear and you try to slip on a new pair, without talcum powder, you won't be able to get them on. If you're taking a break, slip the gloves off and later try to put them back on ... forget it if there's residual moisture in the glove. So while I'm letting those gloves dry out, I have to slip on a new pair. Don't get me wrong. I hate washing / brushing out grease out of my finger nails; but wearing and using gloves in heat and humidity is worse than working with greasy hands. When cleaning my hands, I've found dish detergent to work the best with a nylon bristle brush. I then coat my hands with olive oil or black seed oil to get the moisture back into my hands.
@@hardlymovingpro I understand, but still, just for the short bits when you are using degreaser / Brake-clean protect you skin..
Alright - finally got this done for my brother. Bought the big beef socket and it worked w/ my 1/2" pneumatic impact w/ 10 gallon compressor. It came off in two seconds flat when prior to this we spent several hours trying all sorts of methods to remove the crank bolt. This job kind of kicked our rears as we had to fabricate a few special tools but we replaced both cam seals, water pump, all the pulleys, tensioner and the timing belt. Learned a lot - thanks to your video - but also got our tails handed to us - I won't tell you how long this took us - but the experience gained will certainly be useful for the next time around. Okay, okay, it took 17 hours over the course of two days :-) Including tool fabrication (cam seal insertion tool and cam sprocket holder tool) and a couple of runs into town for cam seals - I boogered up one of the seals and had to go back to two different stores to find another the second time around.
Hey .. live and learn... but you got her done! You could have used a paint can lid remover for the seals ... or jammed a thin tip screw driver and a pick tool (if strong enough) to pull it out. Holding the cam pulley ... a chain strap wrench is the way to go ... guarantee you'll use it again on another job. Can use PVC piping to press in the cam seals.
@@hardlymovingpro , yeah well, I fabricated a cam sprocket holder for about $10 which worked really well and I actually did use an 1 1/4" cpvc coupling chopped down to install the cam seal. It was the hammering which I think ruined it as the inside of the seal started to come out as it went on so I got some bar stock, drilled a hole big enough for the original bolt to go through and used that on the outside of the cpvc coupling - it's basically the same thing as the tool you use in the video and the seals went on so beautiful after that that I was about to shed a tear LOL. My other brother drives a '99 camry w/ the same motor and he needs a timing belt done too so i think I can do the next one a whooole lot quicker ;)
Good work with the custom fabricated tools! The thing with me is that I do so many of these TB jobs I just spend the $$$ for the professional tools. You do enough of these jobs with the right tools, you'd be surprised how fast you can complete the job. The last 1MZFE job took me 3.5 hrs. Not bragging ... do it enough times, anyone will get fast at it.
@@hardlymovingpro , hey have you ever come across after market cam seals that don't seat flush being slightly too thick? We used a felpro cam seal set and we bottomed out the seals and they still stuck out about a 1/16". It's not leaking or anything but was wondering if you've ever come across this before?
I've seen this happen before. It's good to compare the old seal with the new one before installing it.
Thanks for making this, this is one of the most helpful how to videos I’ve watched on this particular job. I’ve got this same car with over 300k on it with the original timing belt. I love my Lexus, I’ve had it many years so it has some sentimental value to me, and rather than just junking it I’m actually wanting to start rebuilding it now to try and make it run and drive as good as it use to. I’ve got gaskets leaking like crazy including both valve covers, and my local mechanic quoted me 1,500 dollars just to change the timing belt alone, I’ve been afraid to tackle it myself thinking it will be extremely complicated to work on, but after watching this I think I can do it lol.
Hey ... thanks for the post and glad you liked it! Yes ... you can do it. Just make a small investment with some tools that you might not use again but it'll be a hell of a lot cheaper than paying someone $1,500. Don't make the mistake on putting time limits on completing the work. If you get frustrated, just walk away and get your composure back. If it takes 2 days or a week to complete the job, so be it. Check out the other videos I put out on the ES300!
Id just pay the man do the simplier stuff.. Get him to do mine..
Thank you so much for your time and effort in making these videos. With the help of this one and your other videos, I was able to do timing belt/water pump and valve cover gaskets on my '95 es300.
Thank you so much!!!
Great news and glad you found the videos to be helpful!
@@hardlymovingpro lm stumped at the first hurdle. how do you stop the crank from turning when taking the crank bolt off. I'm guessing brace it somewhere? appreciate the great video. wish me luck!!
Hey man, I'm here simply to expresa my gratitud for this content. I own a 98 es 300 and did this particular overhaul. My car runs beautifully. I had intended to replace the head gaskets while I was at it but I was strapped for time and also concluded that head gaskets are an even bigger job than this. That said, have an awesome day, brother. Peace.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
Amazing rescue! So much great tools and detailed good work! I’m sure the ES is happy! This would all cost a fortune at a mechanic and it wouldn’t be worth it. So the DIY along with cleaning makes this a great resto.
You are absolutely right and it was very rewarding bringing it back to life.
Hardly Moving Productions ... So How Much Would This Job Cost At A Shop If I Had Brought A 2000 Es 300 with 89,000 miles and I just wanted to do all this so I’ll know it’s done?
I really like how in-depth you are with these videos, not only with the disassembly, but reassembly as well. I had this done on my 01 ES300 a while back, this video gave me confidence in knowing my $1000 I spent on having it done was well spent lol! I don't think I would ever do this myself, but I it's very interesting to see how it's done. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your post and comment Zach! With the right attitude, patience, parts and tools, anyone can do it. What you saw in this video is how it's pretty much professionally done. All these powered hand tools make the job go faster and easier.
I'm just a non-mechanic guy who decided to do all his own repairs 2 years after getting this vehicle (1999 ES300) and so I've been learning a lot, but this will be my first timing belt/WP job (in about 12,000 miles). I've watched your video and many others' videos more than a dozen times each, closely analyzed every part of the videos, learned various techniques, bought new tools, wrote my own guide based on these videos and the official manual (for myself, to reinforce all the knowledge), and just started going to the junkyard to practice (yesterday) the removal part of this job on ES300's.
One thing I'm concerned about though is the hugely conflicting information on whether my 1999 ES300 with VVTi is an interference engine. Some people are 100% sure it isn't and say 1mzfe is non-interference regardless if it's non-VVTi or VVTi, and others claim that VVTi automatically means its interference by nature of the design (I'm not savvy on engine designs, so I wouldn't know). One post I've read says in the 3MZ engine on an ES330 the official repair manual's timing belt procedure gives instructions based on that engine being an interference. However, in the 1999 ES300 (my car) official repair manual from Toyota, there is no mention of engine interference and the procedure is exactly like your video (for example, the setting to TDC by turning the crankshaft - it even mentions being able to turn a whole 360 revolution). The only "NOTICE" it gives is to always turn the crankshaft clockwise. I've heard there are special precautions to take in interference engines, but none of that is listed in my manual. A part of me is scared. Are there any parts of this video and your guide that would ruin an interference version ES300 if done incorrectly, such as with the handling of the crankshaft/camshaft pulleys? Why does the manual say to only turn the crankshaft clockwise? Don't you have to do it counterclockwise to get the bolt out? I want to hear your takes/knowledge on interference, if you have time.
VVTi is interference. Toyota wanted more power out of their MZFE engine so they raised the compression ratio. Majority of car manufacturers are taking this route. I don't know how many degrees you have to be off on the cam for the valves to touch the pistons, but as long as the engine is not running, there won't be any damage. If everything is set at top-dead-center (TDC), you can move the cam sprocket forward or back 2 cogs to mount the belt without worry of the valves coming in contact with the pistons. You can also do the same thing with crankshaft to mount the belt. There's no need to go beyond 1 cog counter-clock wise to assist mounting the belt.
@@hardlymovingpro thanks for the info. That does ease my worries. Thanks for your detailed videos and for the responses 🙂
No problem.
BTW - here's the link to a 3MZFE engine timing belt replacement performed on a Camry. The only thing different is the belt tensioner design.
ruclips.net/video/jfxGNo9KlFk/видео.html
How do people like this do this so fast and he remembers where every bolt and screw goes when he takes them off. This guy must be a master mechanic.
Lots of practice ... lots of repeat jobs.
@@hardlymovingpro love your channel wish I could hire you to work in my Lexus.
You can get it from Amazon. Search on Toyota Camshaft Seal Installation Tool, Lisle Seal Romoval Tool and Chain Strap Wrench.
I have a question for you on sludge on the 1mzfe. Have you had any problems with it? How do you deal with it if you have had problems?
@@CuttinInIdaho Easiest way to gradually eliminate it from you engine is to add 20% Marvel Mystery oil with every oil change. After around 3 oil changes, you won't believe how much cleaner your engine will be. You can monitor the progress via the oil dip stick. If the oil gets black in under 1,000 miles, it's working! You may want to change it though instead of waiting for the next change interval since the cleaning action could prematurely clog up your oil filter.
Brilliant! Like surgery... I really want to purchase a vintage '01 ES 300 and this gives me a tad more confidence of what to expect for repairs. Thanks HMP!
Glad you like the video! Yes ... the ES300 is a great automobile on a Camry / Avalon chassis with virtually the same reliable V6 engine and Aisin transmission. The separation from Toyota is better quality paint, more standard creature comforts, durable and better interior material and superb sound deadening. Resale value with gen 3 is low (a few thousand $'s), and if you watch the rest of the ES300 redo videos, you can do the work yourself to bring the car back to almost new condition with nominal cost in parts.
Wow! You actually commented. You should open a shop in Philadelphia so I have a reason to buy all the vintage cars and still be able to afford to live decently. Bahahaha! Again, it was so sharp that you replied. Thanks again HMP!
Thanks ... so far no big deal answering questions ... less than a half dozen per day ... like helping people who need a little DIY help. Like providing a public service outside of corp America. I get a little bit of RUclips ad revenue and product sales comission from Amazon.
Best video I EVER seen on replacement of water pump and timing chain replacement
Thanks!
You are a very good mechanic - a very clean person, just like me. The car owner must be very happy with your work.
Thanks for your comment Yes ... the owner is very happy. His previous car was a VW Jetta and has no regrets getting rid of it for the ES300.
Awesome! Thank you so much for posting these videos. I'm about to attempt this with my 98 Avalon which has developed a major rattle at 1.5k-2.25k rpm that I've attributed to the tensioner and possibly other pulleys. I will definitely be referring to this video during the process!
You're welcome and enjoy! With these videos, the right tools and patience, you'll save money and feel a great sense of accomplishment after you've done the job yourself!
I have the same problem on my 1996 Avalon. What was the cause of your rattle?
I have a ticking sound within that rpm range. Had your rattle gone away after your TB JOB?
@@FEETLE Yes. The issue was the belt tensioner. The belt was so loose that it was flapping against the plastic cover. That's what all that noise was at that rpm range. I ended up replacing the water pump, idler pulley, tensioner and cam/crank seals while I was in there, but the noise was 100% the tensioner.
Thanks, I did the same job on a '98 Sienna about 3 months ago, ran great but customer wrecked it 3 days later. He had it towed to my place, decided he wasn't going to fix it, gave it to me. I found a 2001 Solara with a blown engine for 400 on CL. Bought it, pulled the engine with harness, put it on the Sienna engine then reinstalled. Made sure everything was right, changed out passenger CV axle because it was trashed and I'd installed new on the van, also replaced sway bar links and everything else. Started first touch of the key. drove it for 2 days then noticed a water leak, popped the hood and found the plastic inlet upper radiator hose had broke. Plastic just corroded. Replaced the radiator with new.
The body on this Solara is perfect, they had just put new tires on it and my girl detailed it. Then I took it for another drive, stuck my foot in it and it stalled. I went back checking everything - had spark, fuel, compression, no codes. Seemed like it would almost start, but wouldn't. Anyway, my compression gauge had tested hundreds of cars and though it seemed all 6 were good, one seemed a little low. Today I pick up a new gauge and all different readings then before.The front 3 were my main concern, and I've just tested one because of the rear because they are a PITA. 120,90, 150. So I squirted a little oil in the 3 holes and rechecked. No change. So I have a gasket or valve problem. Tomorrow I'll check the last 2 holes but figure a heads coming off, so both will come off. And I have a good local head shop that charges $100 a head to rebuild. The old engine bottom end locked up, I see what shape they're in and maybe get them built while I tear this one down. Order gaskets on line, local has $75 for one side, $45 other. So much for a quick flip on this one. Been at this for 43 years, fixing cars, something's wrong when I watch someone else doing it.
Good video, love that chain strap wrench you use on the cam gears. Where'd you get it? Thanks again.
Hey that's a lot of time and effort with no ending reward. But that's the sandbox that we play in. The castles we build sometimes stay up and other times fall apart. Anyway, have you considered doing a compression leak down test before pulling the heads? You can find the culprit of a leak easier with compressed air being forced into the cylinder. If it's a mild head gasket leak, you can try using a bottle of a product called K Seal. Of all the head gasket seal and coolant leak products I've used, it's the best product out there. You can get you hands on a long handle chain strap wrench from Amazon via the link in the description area of this video. Just press the "SHOW MORE" button. Thanks for your post and good luck with the Solara!
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks for the quick response. I will try the leak down test but there hasn't been any sign of coolant leaking or compression leaking into coolant system. I will verify though, thanks again.
Nice work, that was a hell of a job! I have to do the same thing on my Australian 2003 Avalon (same as 1994-1999 US model). Looks fun.
Thanks for you comment! I figured as long as the previous owner didn't neglect engine oil changes, I had a good chance of bringing the car back to life ... just had to put in new parts, time and effort and crossed my fingers when I turned the ignition key.
Wow. Hell of a task. You are a great mechanic. Im highly impressed with your attention to detail. The people who owned that car didnt give a f#%& about that thing. Good luck with the Lex.
Thanks! Couldn't finish the redo project since one of my customers insisted on buying it.
I may have bought a problem child so your videos are like a blessing! I’ll likely do quite a few of these so I don’t think I’ll be bored and now I won’t be scratching my head as much either! Thanks again! Much love brother!
ES300 is a worthwhile car to keep running.
you guys are so professional....I could never figure this thing out...Thank you for sharing....
No problem!
I have a 92 ES300 which I've owned since new. In 2019 I dropped the engine and subframe from the car - basically in reverse to how it was assembled in the factory. I replaced every seal and "bolt on accessory" imaginable. Let me tell ya, it was much easier working on that engine after we dropped it from the chassis. So much more room to work!
Good job! If you have a lift or found a creative way to move the car and subframe away from each other without a lift, please share!
@@hardlymovingpro
They make 40-in jack stands. Or alternatively you could get the car up on concrete blocks. This is essentially what I'm doing with my Freightliner to drop the front crossmember to change the front motor mount.
EXCELLENT SERIES ON A LEXUS. #RESTORING A LEXUS : STAGES 1-6 DOCUMENTARY
Thanks!
When I did this with my 4cyl 2.2l Camry, I loosened the bearing cap, put the seal in, and tightened it to torque. Why people don't do it this way is beyond me. One person disputed me vociferously until I point out, if you were changing a head, this is what you would have to do either in or out of the vehicle. He finally agreed.
The crankshft bearing you can also tap in with a wood or plastic rod. The omnipresent Scotty even did it with a rachet extension. It's not brain surgery.
That's one way of doing it ... but from my recollection, you have to take the valve cover off to get to the bearing cap ... right?
Love your videos brother no fluff, clear concise information hands down the best videos i’ve ever seen on working on cars. This is my first vehicle and I can’t afford to get it worked on so with your help i’ve already managed to replace the control arm, motor mount, pcv valve and other small things. Coming from never having worked on a car your videos were a godsend.
But i’m pulling my hair out because I just can’t get my power steering belt on. I loosened the tensioner as far as I could, made sure I had the correct belt, and i have spent hours fidgeting with a pry bar to no avail.
Also recently my serpentine belt has started to make a high pitched whirring noise which gets better when i spray the belt with water, the alternator pulley also gets hot to the touch within just 1 minute of running the vehicle. I’m assuming this is because I have failed to align the belt properly and it is either too loose or too tight. Loosening the belt gets rid of the noise until i go past 1.5RPMS on the dash, and tightening it just seems to make the issue worse as of right now. The car hasn’t been driven in roughly a month or so as It’s been quite the project getting all this stuff done myself with rudimentary tools. But i digress
I would be in your debt if you could describe to me how to get my power steering belt on, if you’d be willing to do a video call with me so that I may show you exactly where i’m struggling I would be glad to compensate you for your time.
Thank you and god bless.
After loosen the ps tensioner, apply light hammer taps on the ps pump to make it move a little bit more. If having problems installing a new belt, mount the belt on the balancer pulley first and get mount as much as you can on the ps pulley. Get a box wrench and turn the ps pump pulley in the direction you want the remainder of the belt the slip on. The forced rotation of the pulley will force the belt on. Belt noise is the result of a loose belt, worn belt or one of the pulleys that the belt is driving (i.e. alternator, ac compressor) has a worn out bearing that's making the pulley cock eyed.
@@hardlymovingpro Hey! I got the ps belt on shortly after writing that comment, i had spent a cumulative 8 hours on it but i rewatched your videos and just went in fresh and, after just messing with it for 20 minutes i ended up getting it on easily.
Now it’s just leaking a bit so i gotta fix that but that’s because of my own oversights that i’ve already identified. (Not putting both crushers on the banjo bolt for PS Pump, Missing inline O-ring for low pressure hose).
Genuinely thank you dude you are the GOAT 🐐, the gold standard of mechanic videos you’ve saved a young broke man’s life 😅
@@hardlymovingpro you should have courses on masterclass skillshare etc, on how to record a good DIY video. That skill is indispensable and it transcends cars, i’m sure you don’t mind the “obscurity” but I do, it’s to the detriment of the world my g!
@Maestro-gh2ei Thanks! Social media sites like youtube allows people to spread their knowledge, experiences and wisdom without certifications and degrees. Without them I wouldn't be considered for a teaching position.
Thanks so much for video and tips & other video & detailed write-ups on the 1MZFE Engine. I will use this info to solve oil leak issue on our 1996 Camry and I beleive I have same engine in 2000 RX 300. Very helpful.
Your welcome and my pleasure. The 1MZFE is used on your 96' Camry and 00' RX.
Awesome video! Recently inherited a 94 es300 that will need this type of work soon. The mileage is over 304k and the car does need lots of TLC. Just finished doing all motor and transmission mounts. The rear motor mount was a pain the arse! I had to remove the passenger cv axle just to have access and remove the entire mount. Took it a machine shop to remove the old bushing and replace it with a new motor mount bushing. Reinstalled the mount and clunking is gone when put in reverse...
Good deal! Can't go wrong with the ES300. A very solid car. Keep up with the maintenance, the car will last forever.
Thanks for the lesson....my son and I finished his 1999 Solara using this video only......240k on the clock and rolling for more
Hey ... good for you and congratuations! Ready to move on to the suspension?
My 1999 Solara with the four-speed automatic has a lot of lash in the transaxle shifting from reverse to drive out of park. Are you having this problem? I only have $185,000 MI.
Start with a trans fluid flush. See if that helps.
I like the way you clean everything very nice and a very excellent job thanks for a very well done video.
Thanks. Spent the extra time to clean things up. Afterwards I did a power wash to clean the engine bay some more. Here's the video if you're interested:
ruclips.net/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/видео.html
just bought one of these gonna keep all these videos bookmarked thanks alot man youre doing gods work
Thanks ... appreciate your post and have fun with your ES300 ... it's a great car!
This guy is fearless
Thanks!
wow-what job! glad I saw this-waaaay too much of a job for an old man-thank you so much!
Yup ... it was a real mess with oil all over the place. Normally not that big of a job if there weren't any problems.
Very good job it was pretty good and you made everything look easy to do.its a 1999 lexus es 300
Thanks!
If you move the rear cam back one cog from the alignment mark. that will give you the slack you need on the front cam. with all the slack at the belt tenshioner. when you release the timming belt tensioner all the timming marks will be aligned. the belt will have perfect tension on it. good video
True ... but you may have trouble mounting the belt from the front cam to the crank.
Amazingly skilled work.Way out of my league.Puts me off a V6 now.Maybe I'll stick with my Camry 2.2 4 cylinder LOL.
Thanks ... but I prefer doing the V6 over the I4 ... believe it or not. I like the dynamic belt tensioner on the V6 vs the "lock-in-place" I4 tensioner and more of a hassle removing the I4's torque rod mount.
Toyota's 2.4L 2AZ-FE (2002 - 2007 Camry) is a lot smoother and more powerful than the 2.2 5SFE. Hyundai's 2.4 is also an impressive engine as long as the oil pump doesn't fail.
@@hardlymovingpro Problem is the oil burning issue with the piston rings.I know a lady with a 2008 RAV4 with that engine and it eats oil like there's no tomorrow.Only done about 70,000 miles.Apparently the head bolts can shear off too and there's no repair for that.
Yea ... Been reading bad stuff about the 2AG-FE I4.
If you just took pot around in urban driving like I live in most of the time, I believe 4 cylinder engines have more low end torque which I noticed the most from a standing stop.
I think my 1992 Ford Probe 4 cylinder engine ( made by Mazda) had better starting from a start then my 1999 1MXGE. But the Probe version woyld not be able to touch the Toyota engine merging onto the highway or at highway speeds.
Pretty hard work on ones like that. Way to go!
Best mechanic
I’m doing this job as we speak thanks to this video!!! Thanks so much!
Good luck!!
The air conditioner on this car is hard to match. They are simply amazing. Anyone that has one knows what I mean. My 1MZFE is at 270,000 and I'm ready to give it its 3rd timing belt because the seals are leaking.
Yup ... on the MZFE engines, the cam seals won't last forever. What gets me upset is when repair shops associated the rear cam seal leak with a power steering pump leak. The pump sits directly below the rear camshaft. When I tell customer's its a cam seal leak, they tell me they spent big $$$'s replacing the p/s pump!
I would not know. When I bought my car with 160,000 miles used Toyota Solara the bearing was out on the air compressor pulley. I just deleted it and run the alternator direct to the crankshaft pulley.
Thanks very much for this - need to do the timing belt on my car. My car is the 2005 avalon - made in australia but has the 1mz-fe engine (tooled and manufactured from the early toyota usa design). I was fascinated with your video, like a deer in the headlights, trying to tell myself i can do this - I can do this - lol. What I will do is remove the top cover and see what's going on. Looks like it's an area that may need attention. Loved seeing the tools you used and it was a clear video. thanks again !
Thanks for your post and comments! Here's another timing belt / water pump video I did specific to the Avalon: ruclips.net/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/видео.html
@@hardlymovingpro Cheers - Great video. I think I will try the whole thing!!! Appreciate your time !
Thanks so much for taking the time to film ,edit, and post this,
Appreciate your critique! Lots of time and effort goes into making these videos.
I love your video I miss my Acura TL 06 you was the first video i saw on timing belt
The TL is a nice ride when everything is working and nothing is worn out too much.
Jesus! That car was dirty! Enough to gag a maggot! Great job!
Thanks! I know!
Good content here. Looks like someone really botched the initial timing replacement. Nice work
Thanks 👍
Good work! Guess it's time to do mine with the original belt at 145k before this happens.. so I can reuse the timing belt tensioner?
Love my 01 ES300! Gonna refresh all the front suspension too!
I need to start making videos of all my diy projects..
Yup. You don't need to replace the tensioner.
2 years ago in the Chicago land Napa I paid like $160.00 for the ASIN Kit and it came with the tensioner, idler pulley, water pump , water pump stainless steel gasket , and tensioner pulley . I only had 165,000 Mi at the time I did all mine. I wouldn't be "Cheap Charlie" and I would just change everything while you're in there including the camshaft seals.
Finally...an excellent video!!!! Do you know how hard it is to find videos pertaining to my/this engine? They are nearly impossible to find, as others always tend to work on the easier 4 cyl.vehicles, like 1Aauto. Every one of their videos are already pre- worked on, where everything is nice and clean and comes off easy peasy. Never a difficult situation to deal with. So, God bless you for tackling the real tough jobs! Liked and subscribed!!
Thanks for your kind comments and critique, and glad you found the video useful. If you check out our playlists, you'll find other videos pertaining to ES300 repairs.
this video is very helpful I need to do all that to my 1997 lexus es300 I'm watching this video 3 times already cuz have to do this thanks
He did this I. A half hour basically I’m shocked and floored on how quick he did this. My mechanic took all day and ripped me off.
Normal speed around 5 hour or less job.
I have the exact same car, thinkin about fixing an issue that whenever it runs, somewhere in that whole belt area, it makes a sandy gritty noise, still runs fine. Also I see oil on the power steering pump, any idea what any of this could lead to? GREAT video! Thank you :D
The gritty noise is probably your bearings either in your water pump, alternator or power steering pump. The oil on the oil pump is a loose hose clamp from your p/s pump reservoir going to your pump. Just pump another screw clamp in front of it.
Very helpful video; thanks! The neglect that car had suffered is amazing. Suggest trying Purple Power for de-greasing; less odor.
Thanks ... I use something similar to Purple Power sold at Dollar Tree. One quart, one dollar. The stuff I used in the video was a Walmart brand degreaser. What I like about it is it's water based. Here's the video where I power washed the engine bay:
ruclips.net/video/jTO_RHiydQ0/видео.html
I was quite happy to find that whoever worked on my 2001 Toyota Avalon last had put anti-sieze on the crankshaft bolt. Came out pretty easily. The camshaft gears were fairly easy once I found the right crowbar that fit between the gear webbing(sprockets? whatever) and used a good sized cheater.
The annoying bit came once I got far enough to pull off the water pump. The stud that was missing from HMP's Toyota was present on my Avalon, which makes removing the water pump impossible... I tried removing the front stud first, but made the (terrible) mistake of using a hex socket, rounding it over. So ordered new E torx sockets, still couldn't get the front one off because it was still rounded over from before.
Luckily the back stud did finally come off with more penetrating oil, PB blaster, and the right socket.
Unfortunately, as I inspected the new water pump in the kit I got from Gates, I noticed various dents and dings around the sealing surface, so now I get to deal with returns during a pandemic. Hurrah? @%#$%
If you don't want to worry about future water pump problems, get an Aisin brand pump. You can overcome the lack of clearence with the side studs by jacking up the engine a inch or so with a wood block between the oil pan and the hydraulic jack.
Very detailed but fast,I'm going to have to take a second look or three but very well done! Subscribed!
Glad you liked it! We keep our videos simple, straight to the point, with no fluff to put you asleep.
Thank you so much your video helped out a lot just wish that you would have told me to mark the belt and camshafts but everything came out just perfect
Good news and happy it all worked out for you!
Nice work. It was a bit of a gamble putting all that money and work into the timing belt and water pump kit not know if the valves we're bent.
Thanks for your comment. Actually I was more concerned about the transmission. In the 1MZFE non interference engine, the valves can't be damaged when a timing belt brakes. That all changed with the 1MZFE with VVT technology since they raised the compression ratio to increase power.
Great video! Wish I could work in Hyper-Mode like you do. (-: Seriously, I am glad you use power tools. Other videos are so tedious while watching the guy screw tons of screws by hand. My Camry has 256K miles and still runs like a sewing machine. But, I guess I better replace the belt before it breaks. Thanks again.
Thanks for your critique! That was a good video when I replay for myself. It was around 8 hours of work. Hey ... I'm slightly ahead of you on my Camry ... 260K miles but it's a 4 cylinder. Yes, power tools does make ALL my jobs go much faster. I'll be doing a video pretty soon on the power tools that I use (and abuse) comparing and contrasting with some nifty hand tools. I'm partial to Milwaukee power tools if you've noticed. You should check out the video I made on replacing a broken timing belt on a 4 cylinder Camry.
Good day..Do you have the video of changing the power steering pump or just follow the route.. thanks for being a blessing... have a blessed day
@Hardly Moving Productions thanks for the video. I watched it times, especially basically the middle bc I was having a heckuva time getting the camshaft bolt out. Took the universal removal tool you recommended and with some (a lot) of effort I did get the bolt out. Bottom cover came off easy peasy after removal of the pulleys. The problem I'm having now is the re-alignment of the (new) timing belt. It's marked, and I've watched your moving it this way and that way portions of the video multiple times. When I Thought I had it, I tried to start the car - the cams moved the belt moved though it skipped significantly. So I began again - I think I need help with making sure it's on tight enough after installation of the tensioner. You were very explanatory, and I thought I'm following it to the letter - but apparently not. Giving up for the night I'm quite tired, will start again hopefully you will have responded with some words of wisdom. Hot already in Florida but with schools closed due to Covid-19 I figured I had the time. Any help appreciated. - John
I have a mobile mechanic coming out tomorrow - reached out through a local fb group and he responded. Hopefully I didn't ruin it!
@@JDMasonFX You can't ruin the 1MZ-FE engine with a jumped timing belt. Here's another TB video replacement job performed on a 97 Avalon which has the same engine as the ES300. Maybe you'll find this video more helpful. ruclips.net/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/видео.html
Good job. Nice informative video. mine has 120,000 have replaced a lot of belts on toyotas but not the dual overhead sideways 3.0 s Sorry I laughed when the alternator went kapow.. That would have pissed me off...lol
Should have first blown compressed air into the alternator. The power of cob webs!
Follow up...the power steering reserve loosing atf fluid..and I don't know yet where is leaking.. thanks again
There are 2 possible sources: 1. The low pressure hose from the p/s reservoir to the pump is leaking from the spring clamp(s). Solution: Either replace the hardened hose or put hose clamps in front of the existing spring clamps. 2. The rear (firewall side) camshaft seal is leaking and migrating to the p/s reservoir. Solution: When replacing the timing belt, remove the camshaft sprocket in order to replace the cam seal.
I have the same car and really appreciate and thankful that you post videos on your project car. These videos are really helpful to me. Now do you have a video on the front exhaust manifold catalytic converter replacement or cleaning of the same part?
On old (20 + years), high mileage Toyota's, I found it easiest to remove and replace everything. That is, exhaust manifold/catalyst, down pipe, center pipe with resonator and the muffler. In that way, I know the exhaust system should be trouble free for another 100k + miles and I don't have to deal with a muffler shop doing patch sloppy welds and pipe replacements. The parts are cheap and easy to come by from various ebay vendors. I start from the muffler removing the hangers from the chassis leaving the rubber donut hangers alone. I work my way to the downpipe where I unbolt it from the exhaust manifolds. I then pull the entire exhaust out from the back and hack saw it up into pieces for scrap removal. From that point, you can unbolt the 2 exhaust manifolds from under the car.
@@hardlymovingpro .
MY GUY!
Your video I watched 2 years ago has me another 25,000 and probably 500 hours on the timing belt idler pulley tensioner water pump water pump gasket. I bought the AiSIN kit from Napa on your recommendation in this video.
I have to disagree with you that the exhaust system on my 1999 Toyota Solara 3.0 1MZFE 20 years old was inexoensive. ?
Quoted $1,600 from Midas and a Toyota dealership. Ended up having to spend about $750 on parts and $200 to a shop to do the manifold to exhaust work. I kept my exhaust manifold.
This is coming from a guy who's used to domestic cars from the 80s 90s where it was 200 bucks to replace an exhaust system. Quite a shock.
I got my exhaust parts from vendors in ebay. Paid around $275 for the cat, resonator and muffler on my I4 camry. If length ain't right or the flanges don't match, my muffler shop cuts and welds to match
Amazing video, thank you for sharing!
Glad you liked it!
That's impressive!
Thanks for this. Really appreciate it. Watching you guys do this gives me the confidence to do the job myself. Golden.
It can be done with patience and some determination!
Hello, I'm going to be doing this soon. I plan on changing both valve cover gaskets, the cam and crank seals.
There was a code for the back knock sensor so i hard wired it to the front sensor ( i don't know if it is worth dealing with while I'm doing this job, i hear the actual knock sensor will be ok but the connector/wires will be bad, corroded from the heat.)
While I'm at it I'll also change all the spark plugs, and the dog bone mount.
What else should i replace? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Doing the rear valve cover can be a pain. Disconnect everything that holds that wire harness that sits on top of the valve cover including the power steering sensor line. Then you'll have enough room the take the cover off. With the cover off, you'll also have easy access to the upstream oxygen sensor and would suggest you replace it. If your car is very old, I'd also recommend you replace the high pressure power steering line. Can be a pain to replace with the plenum on.
Once you remove the intake plenum, you should have access to the knock sensors as well (believe there's two).
@@hardlymovingpro I'll look into that high pressure power steering sensor line and the 02 sensor. Thanks!
Believe me or not I have a 94 es300 and I’m in the situation to change the water pump but kinda scared to change it because of the re align it and missing up
I understand but you can use this video almost verbatim to do the TB/WP replacement. The 1MZFE engine was introduced by Toyota in the late 80's/early 90's for different vehicles with minor changes to the engine; however, no changes to the TB configuration until the 3MZFE came out (and all they did was change the TB tensioner).
You can also watch my videos on the TB change for the Camry and Sienna which uses the 3MZFE engine. Identical to the ES300 except for the TB tensioner.
WoooW 😱
Price of that job is a new car, ain't it? Or a new engine at the least....
Good job ✔️👍👌✌️
Price is around $200 for a timing belt/water pump parts kit and my time ... or $40,000 + for a new ES or $6,000 for a new engine.
@@hardlymovingpro yes, i said that with a bit of irony cause that was a messy job...
$200? Are you supplying the parts also?
@@NaturalZBey Yes .... I supplied the parts ... on this job I cut a agreement with the owner ... that if I got the car running with my parts and labor, I'd pay him $700 for the car.
@@hardlymovingpro 👀Whoa! Good man...👏✔️
@@NaturalZBey The owner was ready to have it towed to the salvage yard before I came along.
Well done. You are quite a wrench.
Thanks! Wait for my next video. It'll be on a blown engine swap out of a 2005 Hyundai Sonata. Car now runs like new off of a salvage yard engine.
I actually have to do this today the serpentine belt ripped off and my Brother said you don't have to remove really anything you can do it just on the top by removing the pump or the alternator ? Is there an easier way ? Also don't have a Drive bar
Don't understand the problem and the question. Are you replacing the timing belt or the accessory belt? There's no serpentine belt on the 1MZFE. There's only the power steering and the Alternator/AC belts.
What great timing, no pun intended -- I unfortunately inherited my father's '97 ES300 a few months ago. He only had it about a year but really liked it so it will remain with me for sentimental reasons. It's got 202K on it & it appears to not have been serviced in a long time. The valve cover gaskets are leaking & I will be doing this same job too, especially since I think I hear a noisy bearing which could likely be the same one that gave up on your car. Yours was a real mess to have 160K on it, wow! That had to be satisfying hearing it fire right up. Anyway, this is a great guide for me -- I appreciate the tip on the Aisin (sp?) OEM water pump and the Toyota seal installer -- did you have to buy the installer at the dealer? Was it expensive? I look forward to seeing more of your progress on this car. Thanks!!
We got a video coming out on the valve cover gasket replacement along with a whole bunch of other stuff. You can purchase the camshaft seal installer from Amazon for around $20 or so along with the seal puller. I've got step-by-step text article with pictures on the TB replacement at another site. Here's the address:
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-1MZFE-Timing-Belt-Replacement-Camry-Avalon-ES300
Excellent. Thanks for the good information!
Is there no video of the finished project? Did you fix the dents and scratches? Curious to see the end result of all the labor you put into this beauty.
Someone came along a bought it as is.
@@hardlymovingpro hopefully you profited at least 2k on all that labor.
I finally got the 3mz out of my Rx. One of the Studs on the bottom of the engine mount was angled and stuck in the frame and the threaded stud on the top kept getting caught on the wheel well. So I hacked them both off with a multi tool lol.
The heads of the bolts holding the ac lines to the condenser via the elliptical compressor connections sheared off then I broke one drilling out the machine screw. I think I found replacements on Amazon but need to figure out how to get the old one off and the new one on.
Thanks and good luck with the job!
Great video, one of the best that I've seen on the Lexus 300ES. Do you have a video for changing the main-engine seal?
Thanks! The main-engine seal (or the crankshaft seal) replacement is @ the 15:45 time mark. The seal on the other side of the engine would require removal of the transmission. If you want to see the "non messy" version of a timing belt replacement job for the 1MZ-FE performed on a Avalon, here's the link: ruclips.net/video/Y7WLtDkcAp0/видео.html
Great video, thanks. I had thought I would need to put a support under the engine before removing that motor mount; am I wrong?
No engine support is necessary to remove the side motor mount. It's really not a motor mount ... rather a torque mount to prevent the engine from rocking or twisting too much during hard acceleration.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks!
Uh oh, you're supposed to use transmission fluid for the power steering system in this car. That generic Auto Zone power steering fluid will ruin the rack seals.
I'm afraid you're mistaken. Most PS fluids have a stop leak additive that swells seals to prevent seal leakage and seepage.
@@hardlymovingproToyota calls for Dexron 3 as their power steering fluid, not traditional power steering fluid
@@hardlymovingpro
When I bought and had my sisters old 1998 es300 and replaced the inner tie rods during a front end freshening in 2015...the rack was leaking. After posting and digging around on Club Lexus and looking through my sisters maintenance receipts she had the power steering fluid changed a few times over her 10 year ownership at a jiffy lube type place...that used regular power steering fluid. The consensus on the forum was that this ruined the rack seals.
Edit* hey I just looked at your avatar/pic, I think I read one of your how-to's somewhere while I redid the front end on that car. I did drivers axle, lower control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and links, struts/mounts, inner outer tie rods...mmm probably forgetting something.
Interesting anecdotal conclusion. When I get 1st time customers with leaking ps racks, I advise them to refill their ps reservoir with ps fluid containing stop-leak for around a month. About 50% of the time, it stops the leak! Engine oil seals typically harden with age, develop a leak and require replacement. Oil replacement can enhance longevity. Motor oils labelled for engines over 75k miles contains those stop-leak additives to enhance seal life.
Great job guys ur sure know what your doing! This is a great how to vid. How long did it take ya to get this job done? Very impressive
Thanks! With all the problems, around 8 hours.
Is the motor a interference or non interference? Was there any concern for bent valves? My daughters 2003 es 300 with 309,000 miles just had its timing belt fail. Your video is very helpfull
ES300's with VVT (variable valve technology) engines became interference. If the belt broke in a low rpm (non highway) environment, there's a chance that the valves were not damaged.
Hi! Can anyone tell me at what exact minute he talks about the water pump and where it is?
Great video. Found this while doing research getting ready to do timing belt in my ‘04 ES330. It looks very similar. Does anybody know of major differences I should be aware of?
The 330 or the 3.3 liter is basically the same engine as the 3.0. Only change they made to the timing belt design is the belt tensioner. Watch my video on doing a TB job on a Sienna that has the 3.3 engine.
Wow, you are skilled.. nice work, I have seen your other videos. Do you have a shop? I'm in LI and I'd drive for quality work if you are a reasonable distance. Like to get the belt on my 2003 es300 replaced.
Thanks. I live east of Memphis in Germantown TN.
if the marks are not lining up, does it cause piston/valve or valve to valve interfering? some people think it would be.
There's no problem if you have the 1MZ-FE engine. It's a non interference engine. Later versions with the VVT-i technology was interference along with the upgraded 3MZ-FE.
I'm from Indonesia, I like video shows that broadcast about cars with a 1mz-fe engine, which coincidentally has similarities with my toyota camry, TOYOTA CAMRY GRANDE 1MZ-FE 3.0 V6, unfortunately I'm having a hard time shopping for spare parts, maybe you have one a recommendation for me to shop for COMPLETE SPARE PARTS WHERE OTHER THAN ALI EXPRESS OR AMAZON FOR THE NEED FOR 1MZ-FE ENGINE SPAREPART THANKS
You can use rockauto.com
Is there some reason you can't just use an impact gun to zip the cam shaft bolts out? Perhaps with a Lisle high density socket to overcome the camshaft pulley spinning like we can with the crankshaft pulley?
You can try but don't know what type of impact tool you can use on the firewall side cam sprocket.
@@hardlymovingpro good point 😆
When you lined up the Timing-Mark, how did you know it was at TDC and not 180 degrees off...?
Camshaft sprockets alignment marks are in their correct position
As new owner to this car - the video (Which was Great) but it would had been (Awesome) if it stated size of sockets and tools used
Pretty soon we'll be doing videos on the typical tools I use for doing a repair. To make the repair go faster, I use electric powered tools whereever and whenever I can. I only use mechanical tools (ratchets and box wrenches, screw drivers, etc.) when I can't get easy assess to the part, the nut/bolt won't come off with a powered tool or I need to "feel" the amount of torque needed. With respect to socket sizes, when working on vehicles made in Japan, the sizes, 90% of the time, are pretty much standard (i.e., 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm but predominately 10, 12 & 14). European cars can get confusing (i.e. 13mm, 15mm, 16mm, 18mm). American, at least GM, mostly 13mm, 15mm & 18mm. So if working on a Japanese vehicle, I just looking at the bolt or nut and know I'm dealing with a 8, 10, 12, 14 or 17 almost immediately. If dealing with something unique like a harmonic balancer bolt, I usually state the size in the video. If you want to know what specialty tools are needed to do the repair as shown in the video, click on the "SHOW MORE" area of the video's text description. All the specialty tools along with the parts are listed with links to Amazon. No need to buy the part/tool but you can learn a little more about it by clicking on the part/tool's description. Hope you find this information helpful!
I have always had the belt tensioner replaced also. They say you should because the spring gets weak and not the same tension. I always wondered how that was all done on my 99 sienna. Always paid to have it done and it has 220,000 miles on it. Thought you would have to be a midget to get in there and replace everything. :-)
Haven't encountered one that has failed to date.
pretty cool video
Glad you liked it!
Installed new belt and had equal tension throughout. After a test start all the tension remained at the bottom with slack between both cam sprockets. This caused the belt to start walking off on the top tensioner and cam pulley. How to fix please?
Did you remove and re-install the cam sprockets? If so, they're identical except they're to be mounted on opposite sides of each other to prevent the belt from slipping off. One side has a lip (firewall side) and the other is open with the lip facing the cam seal.
专业知识丰富，维修技术很好。有车交给你修理，放心矣!
感谢您的评论和支持！当然。当您在田纳西州的孟菲斯市时，我会修理您的车的。
nice vid , , if your going to do all that work , would be easier to just pull the motor ,
Thanks. My record in doing this job is 2.5 hours. That's because I've done it over 2 dozen times with the right tools. So if you doubled the time effort to 5 hours plus, I think the TB/WP job would still be faster than pulling the engine out of the car. I would guess, based on past experience, at least 3.5 hours to pull the engine out.
If you can pull an engine\transmission. Put it back inside 3 hours. I got several cars for you to do.. As these are easy compared to pulling all that shit without engine lift. Trans axles. etc.. You would spend 15 hours doing it that way. If you had all the right tools as well. With a car 6 foot car lift....
I've seen these guys at the dealership do it all the time. You disconnect the plumbing (coolant and brake lines), disconnect the electrically wiring harness, disconnect the exhaust pipe and transmission linkages, disconnect the front suspension strut tower from the chassis, support the subframe with 4 jack stands, remove the bolts connecting the subframe to the chassis ... then using the car lift, lift the up the car while the engine and trans stay attached to the subframe. 3 hours...then another 3 hours to install ... and ??? hours doing the engine / transmission repair.
@@hardlymovingpro You got 7.0 hours right there. Then you have to do the timing belt\pump add 2.0 hours for that. Then hope everything goes back without breaking shit. Then do a front end alignment. That is lots of work for timing belt\pump..Not going to tie up a lift for 2 days for that..
Why in the hell would I take that long. When I can do the job in 3.0 hours in the car? They must like giving away their time as well..
You are absolutely correct. I'm not the one advocating pulling the engine out. It's the poster who started this thread a week ago. I stated that I could do this TB/WP job in 2.5 hrs ... that to pull a engine would take at least 3.5 hrs. That right there is a 1 hr difference ... why would I pull a engine to do a TB/WP replacement?
Thanks very nice job
You bet!
Love the vids… Quick question I wonder if somebody could give me some good input on I have a 99 Toyota Solaira V6… I have a quarter size oil drop under the car seems to be dripping off the bottom of the power steering pump… I had a mechanic change the top cam Seal and the crank seal… I know there's one more on the bottom… But he keeps referring to another one… That's right!! another one that he refers to as a main cam oil seal That he hast to raise the engine up from underneath the car to get to and replace while removing a motor mount…… Unless I'm misunderstanding what he saying… I don't know what the hell he's talking about what other seals are there at least motor or oil that would drip off the bottom of the power steering pump???!!! Thanks for any positive good input this is been a little bit of a nightmare thanks again
You have three potential sources of oil leakage by the power steering pump: 1. The firewall side camshaft seal. 2. The firewall side valve cover gasket. 3. The hoses leading either to or from the power steering pump is leaking from a hose clamp that's no longer providing good tension. The third cause can be corrected by putting on a new hose clamp in front of the existing clamp. There are 3 seals that make up the V6 Toyota engine. 2 for the camshaft and 1 for the crankshaft. If your guy replaced one camshaft but not the other, I would attribute his motivation due to pure laziness! If the leak is coming from the valve cover, the intake plenum along with the ignition coil packs must be removed to get the cover off. Around 3 hrs of labor. You can power wash around the entire area with the wheel off so you can more accurately determine the source of the leak.
so nothing that reqiures the engine to be lifted and bracket removal etc??! GREAT RESPONSE ... thank you very much for your time!💪🏻
@@darksolara6750 If the tech knows what he's doing, nope.
Hardly Moving Productions SO BASICALLY THE ABOVE VID..... ok great thanks again...
Yes ... glad to help.
I have an oil leak in my 99 ES300 that drips onto the ground. I crawled under the car (passenger side) and with a UV flashlight saw that the timing belt tensioner was soaked in oil. Which seal do you think is leaking?
Can be any of the two camshaft seals.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you! So the camshaft seal, not the crankshaft seal.
Very cool looking at a 97 with only 67k on it
Thanks but more like 150k miles.
Holy Shit! I'll pay the mechanic
If he's willing to take on the job.
What a shity design for timing system on an engine. I can see why they went back to a timing chain
Actually, having a timing chain driven engine doesn't mean their maintenance free. The chains stretch, chain guides wear out and chain tensioners malfunction. And some of these engines with timing chains are even more complex, time consuming and costly to replace. The mess you saw in this video was the result of a poor installation.
The rear cam slipping didn't screw up a valve?
Nope ... it's a 1MZFE non-interference engine. When Toyota introduced VVTI (variable valve timing) and raised the compression ratio, it became interference.
Im about to tackle the timing belt on a 99 sienna. My concern is retorqueing the crank bolt. Do you torque it against the belt? I watched a ton of vids and havent seen that process yet.
Also, the same question for the retorque of the cam bolts.
One more...does the chain leave bite marks on the can sprockets? Seems like it would.
I torque the crank pulley with a impact gun. Cam bolts manually while locking the cam from moving.
Fantastic video! I discovered your video by coming across this video to help me with my '97 ES300, but have spent the last couple of days watching your other videos. You do great work!.
Question - your tools list in this video includes an oxygen sensor wrench. I think I missed it - where did you need to use that?
Thanks for your comment and your support! Couldn't complete the entire redo project because someone needed a car real bad and wanted the ES300 as is. Every specialty tools used in my videos were listed in the text description area of each video. When doing the valve cover replacement video, I swapped out the firewall side upstream O2 sensor due to a OBDII error code indicating it was malfunctioning. I picked one up from the salvage yard in like new condition. Also, with the intake plenum and valve cover off, access to this sensor was easy and simple to replace. I've seen price quotes of $400 + to replace one O2 sensor so here's a opportunity to do a simple parts replacement.
Understood - just wondering why you listed the oxygen sensor wrench in the text for timing belt video, was wondering what I missed. Sounds like it's just listed in the text for the wrong video ...
The valve cover on the firewall side is leaking in the same lexus that needs the timing belt swap, so I'll be spending lots of time on your youtube channel :)
Excellent service bro i like it 👌👌👍
Glad you liked it and thanks for your support!
Well done
Thanks!