Thanks for the video. My 2004 sienna is in the shop as I'm writing this. The estimate is $2,038. Not happy about it, but I'm a landscaper not a mechanic. I can do some things, especially if a wise person is with me. I don't think I would try this on my own. I'd love to if I had help. Unfortunately my best friend in high school was a mechanic. He would work on cars every day after school. I would get bored watching him so I would go inside and talk with his mom... I kick myself all the time because I missed out on a free education on how to dig an engine apart and put it back together again. So you youngsters out there... if you have someone in your life who is a mechanic, hang out with them, ask questions, get your hands dirty. Then you can be like this guy in this video and save thousands on car repairs.
Thank you!!! You saved me between $900-$1200. I just completed a 2005 Toyota Sienna with over 200,000 mi on the original timing belt. LOL! I referenced a few other videos, but I kept this video up to guide me through the entire process. It was the most straightforward with the clearest video.
Awesome! What condition was the belt you pulled out of there? Isn't it a good feeling knowing you didn't have to pay someone else for this involved of a service?
@@projectfixit The belt condition was horrible. The inner belt cogs were still fine but the outer smooth part had multiple hairline cracks around the entire length. I'm a procrastinator, so I got lucky on this one. Thanks again for the best Sienna video out there! My van's running great and ready for another 100K.
using the diagram was what very nice to see. Sets you apart from being an ordinary mechanic. Having said that you would be a great teacher in auto shop. take care
Most places here in Canada will charge at least $1600 to $1900 for a timing belt replacement. Original Toyota timing belts will easily last to +250,000 km. Nice video simple easy to follow video! I would probably think that the water pump and timing belt should be an easily doable one weekend job.
One of the most informational vids I've seen. Very detailed, and the parts price break down was pretty accurate. I've been an automotive tech for a little over 40 years but I can always learn something. Great job, and keep them coming.....thanks
Project Fix-It, thank you for this detailed and informative video. I was especially intrigued by the noise you described and demonstrated by pressing on the belt at 6:03. I found myself in a similar situation after I had my timing belt replaced by a trusted mechanic in my 2007 Toyota Solara Convertible (V6) with 48K miles (because of age, not mileage). An Aisin TKT-026 Kit was used, which included a Mitsubishi belt. I noted a chirping/squeaking noise in the engine compartment on the passenger side only at engine operating temperatures. The mechanic felt that the timing belt was the culprit and replaced it with an OEM belt. After a few hundred miles, the noise recurred. I feel reassured that you drove 87K miles with this phenomenon without a catastrophic failure. I hope that this is just a "cosmetic" and not a structural issue. If you have additional thoughts about this, please share. - Thanks
I had heard from mechanic friends of mine the timing belt could cause noise especially if they were installed backwards. I never experienced this issue on my QX4. The first time I replaced the timing belt on this Sienna, many miles ago, the noise concerned me so much I tore back into it to inspect all the new bearings that were replaced. The water pump made a squeaking noise as the seal rode on the riding surface. I immediately assumed the water pump was at fault. I replaced it with one purchased from the store. After all was put back together, the noise remained. I told myself we would just live with the noise. We did and the noise remained until I replaced the belt this time. I blame the belt as this is the only explanation which makes sense to me.
Project Fix-It Thank you. I will take the same approach and just live with it. Some folks feel that this has something to do with the camshaft sprocket and should be of no consequence if not attended to. Indeed, when listening with a stethoscope the noise is loudest in the area of the front camshaft. Thanks again.
My bolt on the mount was also ceased so I stopped and brought it to the Toyota dealer since my local shop charged the same price. Had all belts, engine mounts, pump, bearings changed for $1300 plus tax. You got a good kit containing the "Aisin" pump which is oem.
Only thing I might recommend on this engine while your doing the timing belt. There is a blank off plate to the left of the oil filter. I seen that seal leak coolant. Only 2 nuts pop it off, clean the gasket off and reseal it. This way you wont have to drain coolant twice.
Excellent advice! I honestly have had to do this exact procedure you described the first time I changed timing belt at approx. 96k. This plate is accessible from under vehicle pretty easily. Thanks!
Ran into the same issue as you with my motor bracket. But for me, it was the front bolt that snapped. I got the back bolt out. Anyway, thought I'd share how I separated the two halves. Since the upper half has a lip which extends out beyond the lower bracket, I put a pry rod under it on the side of the bracket that I'd gotten out the bolt. Then, I used my floor jack to push the pry bar straight up. The engine lifted about an inch or so before the frozen bolt started to bend. Then, I just wiggled it back and forth to get the metal to finally fatigue. This would not have worked if both bolts had broken off when trying to unscrew them. If that had happened, I might have had to break out the Sawzall. Part Numbers: 12316-0A040, 12315-20020, 90080-11624
Very good job, but with all due respect not installing new cam and crank seals while there is asking for double trouble. It was somewhat difficult to tell but I think the area around your crank was kind of dusty-oil looking.
My 07 highlander hybrid , 3mzfe engine, similar setup, I would say easier than this because no drive belt and powesteering belt. I called 3 dealers around here to see how much I can save by not going to them. TB+WP all of them quoted between $1400 to $1600. I bought Gates kit on Ebay for $100. Will complete this job under $150.
The best I can offer is to give the bracket some love taps with a heavy hammer without damaging the surrounding components. Once you get movement from the bracket, even just a little, probe a long screwdriver or thin bar into an open hole and use it as leverage to wiggle it back and forth until the bolt breaks at the base.
I might have rounded the long bolt for the engine mount bracket. Can I still remove the top cover with it still there? Will I be able to remove it in one piece?
At 11:25 time mark, on the Toyota instruction on diagram 11, it says you need to turn the crankshaft 60° counterclockwise. I have not seen anyone on RUclips doing such. I guess no one knows how to do it since the crankshaft bolt is loose and can't be turned counterclockwise. I wonder why Toyota mentioned this.
Why do so many people do this without replacing the cam shaft/ crank seals? Not much more work to do and at this point they are likely shot and leaking a little bit of coolant.
@@projectfixit Lol I can understand that. If the kit you bought came with them I feel like you would have done it. Every time I’ve seen the seals replaced on this engine there is always a little fluid leaking due to wear. Looking to do this myself and priced all the required materials including some carb cleaner and anti seize grease all new belts and seals for $230 at advanced auto parts. Hopefully I don’t break a stud in the bracket though. Most vehicles recommend you drain the oil before doing a timing belt replace. But it seems that isn’t necessary with the 3mz-fe? Also seen a lot of people struggle with the back engine drain plug to release all the residual coolant remaining after pulling the front engine plug and the radiator drain? Seems to be almost impossible to get the back engine drain plug out due to components of the AWD drivetrain. Just want to get this right. Last time I replaced a water pump I had to do it twice and that was a ‘00 cavalier so not even this difficult.
Hi, when you timed it, did you go cam 1, cam 2 then crank? Was that the order you put the belt? Also why did you not bother replacing the seals? Thanks
Great instructional video. Have you tried removing the side engine bracket and the upper bracket as one unit? I am working on a 02 Sienna and the upper bracket mount bolt towards the rear is frozen. I tried heating the bolt from underneath for about a minute or two , but no luck.
In this car, it doesn't matter. It comes with all lines on the belt but he should have moved one tooth counterclockwise, install the belt on the cam sprockets and then rotate the crank sprocket back to TDC. get the slack away. This way the whole right side will have the tension and the tensioner will take care of the left.
After when I replaced a timing belt changed. I'm getting a code p0016 looking online didn't show anything that is usefull some say it has a bank 1 miss one tooth. I re-check the timing mark witch us all line up. Still get a code p0016. You have any essue afte replaced a timing belt?
Thanks for sharing! Now i know that you can install the tensioner after the timing belt is routed perfectly and made it so easier rather than installing the tensioner first before routing / installing the timing belt! I had i hard time putting the timing belt on literally😂 @Project Fix-it, can you tell me the exact way on how you routed the timing belt on easily? I did not see it in the video.
Thanks for commenting. I actually turned the right cam gear just a little bit counter clockwise about 1 tooth to get the belt in position on top and then aligned the timing marks again once belt was in position. It was a little bit of finagling, but it worked out. Sorry for not showing those details.
Great video. Thanks for all the tips. I have an 04 awd sienna with 240k on it. We've owned since new. I need to put a radiator in so I thought I better put timing belt kit in too. This helps!
Hi Rich I see your video on RUclips change timing belt and water pump my vehicle Toyota sienna 06 and ị remove and install all kit OEM and I don’t know what going on my car have problem power steering wheel fluid power steering fluid reservoir overflowing and after I replace I have test driving couple days make sure everything is fine. I need your help and you know issues can you help me out thank you so much
I have a 2000 Sienna on which the original owner replaced the timing belt at 105,000 miles at a local independent shop. The price was $959.33, and that was in 2006. It now has 210,000 miles and runs great, but it's basically a 3rd car and we hardly ever use it so we're a bit hesitant to sink more money into it. After having watched your great video, i think it's at the upper limit of my comfort zone, DIY repair-wise, especially with some of the accessibility issues and special tools that might be needed, and I don't want to screw something up on a car that basically is running perfectly now. I'm thinking of just leaving it as is and, if the belt goes then deal with it then. My understanding is the V-6 engine on this model year 2000 is a "non-interference" engine and, even if the belt broke at high speed, it wouldn't damage the engine. What do you think?
Well, I can only speak from my sienna experience. In both cases where I replaced the timing belt, I probably could have gone another 20-30k. However, I cannot guarantee the water pump would have made it that long. If the car sits for weeks at a time, you run the risk of the timing belt dry rotting and cracking I suppose. I apologize if I complicated your decision. I would definitely find a friend who is comfortable with this type of repair and have them help you. Otherwise the majority of the cost comes from paying for labor and shop overhead. Give yourself a couple days. No need to rush the job if it's your spare vehicle.
@@projectfixit No problem. Thanks for the quick response. Good to hear about the 20-30K estimate for extended timing belt life, and I understand it's just a guess, but at least it's an educated one, and I understand also about the water pump life having no guarantee. The previous owner used the car for a daily runner and, since we've had the car, I try to keep it from sitting around for weeks at a time by at least driving it around the block every couple of days or so . We did take an extended trip in the car last year and actually drove it across the country and back, over 6,000 miles round-trip, with no problems. What I'm thinking is I might just go ahead and order that kit like you did from Rock Auto and have it handy just in case either something pops or I get the motivation and have the time to tackle the job. At around $150, it seems like a reasonably cheap insurance policy to have those parts ready to go. I'll stick it in the car and, if I'm on an extended trip when something pops, I can just hand it to the mechanic and say have at it.
What a relief, right? It's such a good feeling to know it was all done to your standards. I am happy my video was able to aid. Congrats and thank you for watching and commenting!
Great video. Must I line up timing belt lines the same as the gear notches, or as long as the gear notches are lined up correctly, I can install the t belt any way (with correct arrow placement) ??????????????????????
As long as you have the gear notches positioned correctly, belt arrow in proper direction, and have counted the correct number of belt teeth between cams and top right cam to crank shaft gear, you should be good to go.....I line up the lines as a safe measure and then count the belt teeth as a confirmation.
No, Sir! You are correct. This is a piece of the video I accidentally left off as I did not capture video of it. Good catch. I most certainly reinstalled them and the nuts. I do apologize for leaving this piece out and I should have at least pointed this out on the video.
@@projectfixit thanks for swift reply. very nice work overall. It is especially useful to point out the pitfalls to avoid after you learned of them the hard way, to me this is very significant, bravo.
Thank you. I had done this job on this van once before at 96k miles. I documented it this time. I am not sure if I will have the van the next time it needs done....probably not. LOL> Take care.
@@projectfixit well just so you know, there's a taxi service here in Hawaii who bought their 2004 Sienna vans brand new and their vans are still running well at 500,000 miles each. Those vans can last forever!!!
I believe you are talking about the top motor mount bracket. I really didn't point it out much other than noting the motor mount bushing needing replaced and I will schedule that later.
@@projectfixit yes the top motor mount.....but what is that small black rectangle thing bolted to it...is it a sensor? but i dont see any wire or hose attached to it
@@EvendimataE Ah. I believe it is some sort of counterweight to help with vibration dampening, but this is just a guess. I really don't know it's purpose and have asked myself the same question you are asking. LOL. So, maybe someone out there reading these comments can help answer.
My puller I have had for years. however, the following puller kit should have what you need. ( kit # OTC4534 ) It can be found online and locally. You may be able to borrow the puller tool for free from Autozone.
Be patient. You'll get it. Loosen the top idler bearing if you need a little extra slop in the belt to get that last tooth to take. Just be sure to tighten it back up when done.
Project Fix-It i broke the rear mount bolt like you did, I ended up ordering this dorman lower mount with bolts for 35$. And the upper mount I put a bunch of penetrating oil and banged it out with my 5 pound hummer and punch. I ended up rotating back one camshaft one tooth, then realigned, then I moved the crankshaft back one tooth and realigned, all the lines were in place in the timing belt and pulleys 👍 it was really frustrating that it wouldn’t line up 😂 anyways, glad is done ✅
Thank you. It is possible I will still have this car in the next 90k miles. I will definitely reflect back on my own video before I dig back into it. LOL
Well, I ended up snapping the same bolt you did. Was very careful to wiggle it back-and-forth. Oh well. Found The lower bracket And bolts for $36 on Amazon. Again… Really appreciate you taking the time to go through this for us
Are you still happy with the Asin Belt? Other videos on RUclips show replacing the Camshaft Seal and the Crankshaft Oil Seal. What do you suggest on these?
The belt which came with the kit was Mitsubishi. It is quiet and I am satisfied with it. If you see evidence the cam shaft seals are leaking, it might be a good idea to replace. I chose not to although I did see some seepage around the lower shaft seal.
Yes. It is a bit intimidating. Give yourself time. Expect the unexpected. All in all, it's mechanical and can be completed in a driveway. If you get frustrated, just take a breath and don't be afraid to step away and come back to it later. I have done this job twice on this particular vehicle. In this video you can see my unexpected surprise of seized and broken bolts. Thank you for watching!
I totally understand. It was a dancing act scooching from top to bottom. Therefore, I didn't get any good video footage of it. Sorry, but thank you for commenting and watching!
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Thanks for the video. My 2004 sienna is in the shop as I'm writing this. The estimate is $2,038. Not happy about it, but I'm a landscaper not a mechanic. I can do some things, especially if a wise person is with me. I don't think I would try this on my own. I'd love to if I had help. Unfortunately my best friend in high school was a mechanic. He would work on cars every day after school. I would get bored watching him so I would go inside and talk with his mom... I kick myself all the time because I missed out on a free education on how to dig an engine apart and put it back together again.
So you youngsters out there... if you have someone in your life who is a mechanic, hang out with them, ask questions, get your hands dirty. Then you can be like this guy in this video and save thousands on car repairs.
Thank you!!! You saved me between $900-$1200. I just completed a 2005 Toyota Sienna with over 200,000 mi on the original timing belt. LOL! I referenced a few other videos, but I kept this video up to guide me through the entire process. It was the most straightforward with the clearest video.
Awesome! What condition was the belt you pulled out of there? Isn't it a good feeling knowing you didn't have to pay someone else for this involved of a service?
@@projectfixit The belt condition was horrible. The inner belt cogs were still fine but the outer smooth part had multiple hairline cracks around the entire length. I'm a procrastinator, so I got lucky on this one. Thanks again for the best Sienna video out there! My van's running great and ready for another 100K.
@@youdagoob So lucky. Wow 200k
Wow! you mean you only had ONE timing belt change after 200,000 miles? That's amazing!!!
Must be a 2004 because from 2005 Toyotas have timing chains
using the diagram was what very nice to see. Sets you apart from being an ordinary mechanic. Having said that you would be a great teacher in auto shop. take care
Thanks!.....I started these videos to have something for son. I'm happy for RUclips allowing them to reach beyond.
its march, 2022............and this was the best of all the other videos on replacement. Thanks ! !
Thank you for watching and for the positive feedback!
Most places here in Canada will charge at least $1600 to $1900 for a timing belt replacement. Original Toyota timing belts will easily last to +250,000 km.
Nice video simple easy to follow video! I would probably think that the water pump and timing belt should be an easily doable one weekend job.
One of the most informational vids I've seen. Very detailed, and the parts price break down was pretty accurate. I've been an automotive tech for a little over 40 years but I can always learn something. Great job, and keep them coming.....thanks
I appreciate your feedback! Thank you for the compliment. It means a lot coming from an expert in the industry. RUclips is a fantastic platform.
Don't remove the long Studs. Makes it easier to line up the Gasket and less chance of creating problems. Great work on the vid. Very clear.
Thanks for the compliment and for the tip! Take care.
Project Fix-It, thank you for this detailed and informative video. I was especially intrigued by the noise you described and demonstrated by pressing on the belt at 6:03. I found myself in a similar situation after I had my timing belt replaced by a trusted mechanic in my 2007 Toyota Solara Convertible (V6) with 48K miles (because of age, not mileage). An Aisin TKT-026 Kit was used, which included a Mitsubishi belt. I noted a chirping/squeaking noise in the engine compartment on the passenger side only at engine operating temperatures. The mechanic felt that the timing belt was the culprit and replaced it with an OEM belt. After a few hundred miles, the noise recurred. I feel reassured that you drove 87K miles with this phenomenon without a catastrophic failure. I hope that this is just a "cosmetic" and not a structural issue. If you have additional thoughts about this, please share. - Thanks
I had heard from mechanic friends of mine the timing belt could cause noise especially if they were installed backwards. I never experienced this issue on my QX4. The first time I replaced the timing belt on this Sienna, many miles ago, the noise concerned me so much I tore back into it to inspect all the new bearings that were replaced. The water pump made a squeaking noise as the seal rode on the riding surface. I immediately assumed the water pump was at fault. I replaced it with one purchased from the store. After all was put back together, the noise remained. I told myself we would just live with the noise. We did and the noise remained until I replaced the belt this time. I blame the belt as this is the only explanation which makes sense to me.
Project Fix-It Thank you. I will take the same approach and just live with it. Some folks feel that this has something to do with the camshaft sprocket and should be of no consequence if not attended to. Indeed, when listening with a stethoscope the noise is loudest in the area of the front camshaft. Thanks again.
My bolt on the mount was also ceased so I stopped and brought it to the Toyota dealer since my local shop charged the same price. Had all belts, engine mounts, pump, bearings changed for $1300 plus tax. You got a good kit containing the "Aisin" pump which is oem.
Sweet. Thanks for the feedback.
You have a lot of patience to record and do this job yourself. I will be attempting to replace my 03 sienna timing belt and water-pump. Thank you!
Thanks!....and good luck.
Only thing I might recommend on this engine while your doing the timing belt. There is a blank off plate to the left of the oil filter. I seen that seal leak coolant. Only 2 nuts pop it off, clean the gasket off and reseal it. This way you wont have to drain coolant twice.
Excellent advice! I honestly have had to do this exact procedure you described the first time I changed timing belt at approx. 96k. This plate is accessible from under vehicle pretty easily. Thanks!
Ran into the same issue as you with my motor bracket. But for me, it was the front bolt that snapped. I got the back bolt out. Anyway, thought I'd share how I separated the two halves. Since the upper half has a lip which extends out beyond the lower bracket, I put a pry rod under it on the side of the bracket that I'd gotten out the bolt. Then, I used my floor jack to push the pry bar straight up. The engine lifted about an inch or so before the frozen bolt started to bend. Then, I just wiggled it back and forth to get the metal to finally fatigue. This would not have worked if both bolts had broken off when trying to unscrew them. If that had happened, I might have had to break out the Sawzall. Part Numbers: 12316-0A040, 12315-20020, 90080-11624
Excellent feedback. Thank you.
I just used 2 nuts on the stud thread if torx ends damaged
You are the man! Thank you for a very detailed and informative video.
You are very welcome. Thank you for watching and for leaving wonderful feedback.
Very good job, but with all due respect not installing new cam and crank seals while there is asking for double trouble. It was somewhat difficult to tell but I think the area around your crank was kind of dusty-oil looking.
Yes. I decided to not replace the seals at this time. Thank you for pointing this out and for your kind words.
Best video out there. Very helpful. God bless
Thanks! It's nice to have a fantastic platform to document and share our experiences!
Thank you much for your sharing. Looking forward to see one on a 1-MZ appreciate the details on your tools you used in this task.👍
Thank you for all the great info for sure im a new subscriber
Awesome! Welcome!
My 07 highlander hybrid , 3mzfe engine, similar setup, I would say easier than this because no drive belt and powesteering belt. I called 3 dealers around here to see how much I can save by not going to them. TB+WP all of them quoted between $1400 to $1600. I bought Gates kit on Ebay for $100. Will complete this job under $150.
Sweet! When job is all done, you can sit back and rest easy after saving all that money.
Can I do it this way with 2002 Sienna instead of taking of the left and right crankshaft
What is the special tools that removing stud? I couldn't find in Description pls. Thank you
Stud Removal Set: amzn.to/3XBIzd8
Thanks man much love. Doing a job on toyota sienna can and this helps me so much
Awesome! Thank you for your kind words. Good luck.
Thanks for the elaborate procedures....
Anytime... happy to have helped.
I am having trouble with the same bracket and bolt. My bolt broke of higher, almost flush. The bracket is not budging. Help please
The best I can offer is to give the bracket some love taps with a heavy hammer without damaging the surrounding components. Once you get movement from the bracket, even just a little, probe a long screwdriver or thin bar into an open hole and use it as leverage to wiggle it back and forth until the bolt breaks at the base.
I might have rounded the long bolt for the engine mount bracket. Can I still remove the top cover with it still there? Will I be able to remove it in one piece?
At 11:25 time mark, on the Toyota instruction on diagram 11, it says you need to turn the crankshaft 60° counterclockwise. I have not seen anyone on RUclips doing such. I guess no one knows how to do it since the crankshaft bolt is loose and can't be turned counterclockwise. I wonder why Toyota mentioned this.
This is a good question. I did not catch that detail. Thanks for bringing to to the discussion area. Hopefully someone will be able to answer.
@@projectfixit I found a video ruclips.net/video/XXYGQsZeRyg/видео.html there's a comment from Gail Taylor. She explained it well about the procedure.
Why do so many people do this without replacing the cam shaft/ crank seals? Not much more work to do and at this point they are likely shot and leaking a little bit of coolant.
In my case, it was pure laziness.
@@projectfixit
Lol I can understand that. If the kit you bought came with them I feel like you would have done it.
Every time I’ve seen the seals replaced on this engine there is always a little fluid leaking due to wear.
Looking to do this myself and priced all the required materials including some carb cleaner and anti seize grease all new belts and seals for $230 at advanced auto parts. Hopefully I don’t break a stud in the bracket though.
Most vehicles recommend you drain the oil before doing a timing belt replace. But it seems that isn’t necessary with the 3mz-fe?
Also seen a lot of people struggle with the back engine drain plug to release all the residual coolant remaining after pulling the front engine plug and the radiator drain? Seems to be almost impossible to get the back engine drain plug out due to components of the AWD drivetrain.
Just want to get this right. Last time I replaced a water pump I had to do it twice and that was a ‘00 cavalier so not even this difficult.
Hi, when you timed it, did you go cam 1, cam 2 then crank? Was that the order you put the belt? Also why did you not bother replacing the seals? Thanks
Great instructional video.
Have you tried removing the side engine bracket and the upper bracket as one unit? I am working on a 02 Sienna and the upper bracket mount bolt towards the rear is frozen. I tried heating the bolt from underneath for about a minute or two , but no luck.
I've never tried it, but I'm sure it would not be a problem to remove the side bracket and upper bracket together.
@@projectfixit Thanks for the quick response
How long did it take you to do it this second time?, I notes at the end you said the time 😂, thanks 👍🏼, great video
Always start from the harmonic balancer
In this car, it doesn't matter. It comes with all lines on the belt but he should have moved one tooth counterclockwise, install the belt on the cam sprockets and then rotate the crank sprocket back to TDC. get the slack away. This way the whole right side will have the tension and the tensioner will take care of the left.
After when I replaced a timing belt changed. I'm getting a code p0016 looking online didn't show anything that is usefull some say it has a bank 1 miss one tooth. I re-check the timing mark witch us all line up. Still get a code p0016. You have any essue afte replaced a timing belt?
Thanks for sharing! Now i know that you can install the tensioner after the timing belt is routed perfectly and made it so easier rather than installing the tensioner first before routing / installing the timing belt!
I had i hard time putting the timing belt on literally😂 @Project Fix-it, can you tell me the exact way on how you routed the timing belt on easily? I did not see it in the video.
Thanks for commenting. I actually turned the right cam gear just a little bit counter clockwise about 1 tooth to get the belt in position on top and then aligned the timing marks again once belt was in position. It was a little bit of finagling, but it worked out. Sorry for not showing those details.
Awesome video!! Thank you for your detailed instructions.
Perfect. Thank you for the great feedback.
Great video. Thanks for all the tips. I have an 04 awd sienna with 240k on it. We've owned since new. I need to put a radiator in so I thought I better put timing belt kit in too. This helps!
You are welcome. Be sure t check out my radiator replacement video on this same vehicle. Thanks for watching!
Like your video due to the close ups you did
Awesome. I am happy to have helped. Thank you for watching!
Hi Rich I see your video on RUclips change timing belt and water pump my vehicle Toyota sienna 06 and ị remove and install all kit OEM and I don’t know what going on my car have problem power steering wheel fluid power steering fluid reservoir overflowing and after I replace I have test driving couple days make sure everything is fine. I need your help and you know issues can you help me out thank you so much
I have a 2000 Sienna on which the original owner replaced the timing belt at 105,000 miles at a local independent shop. The price was $959.33, and that was in 2006. It now has 210,000 miles and runs great, but it's basically a 3rd car and we hardly ever use it so we're a bit hesitant to sink more money into it. After having watched your great video, i think it's at the upper limit of my comfort zone, DIY repair-wise, especially with some of the accessibility issues and special tools that might be needed, and I don't want to screw something up on a car that basically is running perfectly now. I'm thinking of just leaving it as is and, if the belt goes then deal with it then. My understanding is the V-6 engine on this model year 2000 is a "non-interference" engine and, even if the belt broke at high speed, it wouldn't damage the engine. What do you think?
Well, I can only speak from my sienna experience. In both cases where I replaced the timing belt, I probably could have gone another 20-30k. However, I cannot guarantee the water pump would have made it that long. If the car sits for weeks at a time, you run the risk of the timing belt dry rotting and cracking I suppose.
I apologize if I complicated your decision. I would definitely find a friend who is comfortable with this type of repair and have them help you. Otherwise the majority of the cost comes from paying for labor and shop overhead. Give yourself a couple days. No need to rush the job if it's your spare vehicle.
@@projectfixit No problem. Thanks for the quick response. Good to hear about the 20-30K estimate for extended timing belt life, and I understand it's just a guess, but at least it's an educated one, and I understand also about the water pump life having no guarantee. The previous owner used the car for a daily runner and, since we've had the car, I try to keep it from sitting around for weeks at a time by at least driving it around the block every couple of days or so . We did take an extended trip in the car last year and actually drove it across the country and back, over 6,000 miles round-trip, with no problems. What I'm thinking is I might just go ahead and order that kit like you did from Rock Auto and have it handy just in case either something pops or I get the motivation and have the time to tackle the job. At around $150, it seems like a reasonably cheap insurance policy to have those parts ready to go. I'll stick it in the car and, if I'm on an extended trip when something pops, I can just hand it to the mechanic and say have at it.
Thanks for your video.
Very details
You are welcome!
Thanks for this video. It was so helpful to do it by myself in my garage. It took me some time, but it got done!
What a relief, right? It's such a good feeling to know it was all done to your standards. I am happy my video was able to aid. Congrats and thank you for watching and commenting!
Great video. Must I line up timing belt lines the same as the gear notches, or as long as the gear notches are lined up correctly, I can install the t belt any way (with correct arrow placement) ??????????????????????
As long as you have the gear notches positioned correctly, belt arrow in proper direction, and have counted the correct number of belt teeth between cams and top right cam to crank shaft gear, you should be good to go.....I line up the lines as a safe measure and then count the belt teeth as a confirmation.
@@projectfixit appreciate u 👍
didn't see the water pump studs being put back, did I miss it?
No, Sir! You are correct. This is a piece of the video I accidentally left off as I did not capture video of it. Good catch. I most certainly reinstalled them and the nuts. I do apologize for leaving this piece out and I should have at least pointed this out on the video.
@@projectfixit thanks for swift reply. very nice work overall. It is especially useful to point out the pitfalls to avoid after you learned of them the hard way, to me this is very significant, bravo.
6 videos later and somebody is still not showed me where the pulley camshaft alignment in the back fully is cuz I guess nobody can see it
Brilliant! You sure know your stuff!
Thank you. I had done this job on this van once before at 96k miles. I documented it this time. I am not sure if I will have the van the next time it needs done....probably not. LOL> Take care.
@@projectfixit well just so you know, there's a taxi service here in Hawaii who bought their 2004 Sienna vans brand new and their vans are still running well at 500,000 miles each. Those vans can last forever!!!
I was doing this and I’m laughing watching the video cause he sprayed it mine never came out ended up buy new brackets
why did you not replace both cam seals and crank seal.
Hello. I made a decision to not replace the seals. There was not any reason for my choice. I'll get to them the next time around. Thanks!
what might a job like this cost? i'd like to start saving for it.
500-600 bucks
what is that black rectangle thing on the engine support that you said needs to be changed? it doesnt have hose or wire, makes me wonder what it does
I believe you are talking about the top motor mount bracket. I really didn't point it out much other than noting the motor mount bushing needing replaced and I will schedule that later.
@@projectfixit yes the top motor mount.....but what is that small black rectangle thing bolted to it...is it a sensor? but i dont see any wire or hose attached to it
@@EvendimataE Ah. I believe it is some sort of counterweight to help with vibration dampening, but this is just a guess. I really don't know it's purpose and have asked myself the same question you are asking. LOL. So, maybe someone out there reading these comments can help answer.
Just one thing to say
I love you man👍
LOL! Right back at ya.
Did you have a link to the stud puller set?
My puller I have had for years. however, the following puller kit should have what you need. ( kit # OTC4534 ) It can be found online and locally. You may be able to borrow the puller tool for free from Autozone.
Dman, i can’t get the belt to go over, it’s just one tooth away from the camshaft marking. Everything else is properly lined up....wth
Be patient. You'll get it. Loosen the top idler bearing if you need a little extra slop in the belt to get that last tooth to take. Just be sure to tighten it back up when done.
Project Fix-It i broke the rear mount bolt like you did, I ended up ordering this dorman lower mount with bolts for 35$. And the upper mount I put a bunch of penetrating oil and banged it out with my 5 pound hummer and punch. I ended up rotating back one camshaft one tooth, then realigned, then I moved the crankshaft back one tooth and realigned, all the lines were in place in the timing belt and pulleys 👍 it was really frustrating that it wouldn’t line up 😂 anyways, glad is done ✅
@@yoyobored847 Awesome. I've done it twice on my minivan. It's always an adventure. Congrats on the repair.
Great video man
Thank you. It is possible I will still have this car in the next 90k miles. I will definitely reflect back on my own video before I dig back into it. LOL
Thx man great detailed vid
Excellent. You are welcome and thank you for taking the time to comment!
Well, I ended up snapping the same bolt you did. Was very careful to wiggle it back-and-forth. Oh well. Found The lower bracket And bolts for $36 on Amazon. Again… Really appreciate you taking the time to go through this for us
Are you still happy with the Asin Belt? Other videos on RUclips show replacing the Camshaft Seal and the Crankshaft Oil Seal. What do you suggest on these?
The belt which came with the kit was Mitsubishi. It is quiet and I am satisfied with it. If you see evidence the cam shaft seals are leaking, it might be a good idea to replace. I chose not to although I did see some seepage around the lower shaft seal.
Thanks. You have been very helpful!
Ok, I have the same vehicle. Is this an interference engine?
I honestly do not know. However, I never wanted to take a chance and changed the timing belt regularly.
So many things to do to replace the parts. 😣
Yes. It is a bit intimidating. Give yourself time. Expect the unexpected. All in all, it's mechanical and can be completed in a driveway. If you get frustrated, just take a breath and don't be afraid to step away and come back to it later. I have done this job twice on this particular vehicle. In this video you can see my unexpected surprise of seized and broken bolts. Thank you for watching!
Nice guy, great detailed Video. Thank you!
Perfect. You are welcome. Thank you for watching!
Good video ' but for a first timer like me I'd like to have seen you put it on..
I totally understand. It was a dancing act scooching from top to bottom. Therefore, I didn't get any good video footage of it. Sorry, but thank you for commenting and watching!
nice wideo What is web page You order parts ?
Honestly, I google the part and compare prices and products. Sometimes Amazon, PartsGeek, CarParts.com and RockAuto
I'm debating if an auto mechanic is the worst job ever or working drywall.
Well, if you are fixing your own cars and saving money, it's golden and worth the pain.
I would have gone to auto parts and get the motor mount on place it but that is me just saying
I hear ya. This is still on my "to do" list.
dam thats a job
It sure is, but saves you a ton of money. Thank you for watching!
Hell yeah son. Now it's time for you to find one.😁
why u litle........
Before doing that job i would have taken some pictures to be sure !!!!
Wow, looks like u have to disassemble the entire vehicle.
Timing belts suck
Almost as bad as a interference engine
Yea, the first time I did it at 95k roughly. It seemed overwhelming. The second time was more of a breeze looking beyond the siezed bolts. LOL.
The ask me $1350
That's not surprising. Thank you for the feedback.
Saggy