If y’all liked this video, check out this one where I replaced the sway bar bushings and end links and got rid of the infamous Toyota clunk: ruclips.net/video/YTGzvLI5LZY/видео.htmlsi=_J0PuWF6KRvZeAlW
Couple tips from a Master (RUclips) Mechanic who has done their everything stock (other than X-REAS removed) '03 4Runner CV axles 3 times, and purchased my 4th set just yesterday. 1) Don't get aftermarket axles. This can be confirmed from the Car Care Nut repair channel (and other Toyota master mechanics). Repack grease & get a reboot kit. 2) rotate the shaft at the differential so the c-clip falls in a way that provides much less resistance. I won't say how long I spent my first time, but damn was I fast on jobs 2 & 3. 3) Don't get Cardone aftermarket axles, if you don't want to replace 3 times, in 3 years. 4) Get a Milwaukee M18 Mid-Torque to save yourself a bunch of time 5) mainly 1 & 3 My 4Runner went 200k+ with original axles. Now 3 sets of Cardone HD axles have had boots go bad in as many years. Only grace is the warranty obviously. What I didn't mention before, is my newest set are OEM from a accident GX470 vehicle with 100k miles. Biggest labor mistake I've made was getting the aftermarket ones, and tossing my original ones. Those are GOLD after your realize. I pickup them up tomorrow, and then the decision to grease & re-boot now, or hope Sorry to be a Debbie Downer, but it was a great video & I envy your lack of rust 😁 Buddy got recommended this video, and knew just who to send it to...Subscribed
I wish this old axles were OEM. Unfortunately, both are aftermarket. This is the best solution for me right now. I will be looking into finding a set of used OEM axles. Thanks for the tips! 👍👍
Being someone who recently did my 06 4runner axle and not replacing the seal only to have to go back and take the axle out just to change the seal as it started leaking, good idea on doing it all at once.
You can try running a tap the same size it currently is through it to just clean up the existing threads. I've done it multiple times with success. And that axle nut was definitely over torqued. I've dealt with them on Toyotas multiple times and they are NOT supposed to be that difficult unless they are severely corroded. Being over tightened like that can also reduce the life of the wheel bearing.
I think this is the best option, had a similar situation with my Forester when a mechanic stripped out a bolt that connects my LCA to the body/frame, I had no option but to tap it. Keep it OEM if you decide to swap it, junk yards probably best money wise. I learned my lesson letting other people work on my cars. lol
I just had the same issue. I should of looked into something like a thread chaser, but I wanted it done and just sent it. I was able to torque it to over 110ft/lb, and I hope it stays. This is on a 2000 tacoma. Oh well.....I should of just bought a couple new bolt, one to screw on, and one to make a thread chaser with. would of probably solved the issue.
A few months ago, I had a stuck wheel lug nut that would not budge (like your CV axel nut). Rather than using heat, I put an ice cube 🧊 on the lug nut for a few minutes and was surprised how the lug nut finally was able to be loosened.😮😊
I had a similar problem, around the same time, oddly enough. Only I was tightening my lugs. Just one more turn will do the tri.... snap. ugh. cars. I love the satisfaction of doing my own work, and saving loads of money. But I don't like it when things inevitably go wrong.
@@charlesparnell5338yes, it is a major pain at times. But, if it broke for you it would have broke with a mechanic too. And that would’ve cost a ton to fix. 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage well not for me. I just went online and ordered the OEM hub bolt. (‘04 Rav 4) Easy fix. Used a punch; that I had cut down a bit with a grinder for a flat edge. Rotated the hub to the knockout location, and smacked it with a small sledge. 2 hits and she’s out. Put in the new one (lined up the teeth), and smacked it from behind, then used the lug nut to pull it on through. Piece of cake. 👍
Some tips: -For axle nuts, of course, first preference is an impact, but if you need to use a breaker bar, use a deadlift kind of motion, so the breaker bar goes up instead of down. It's a way more stronger pull. -To take out the axle from the gearbox do exactly the same you were doing with the pry bar, but instead of using your arms to pry, use a hammer, so is the hammer doing the "impact lever". Nothing will happen to the transmission case. You take off a lot of effort doing this, and the axle can get out even at the first try. I copy the trick from an English youtuber that only works changing clutches. -To make room for the axle, just remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, this way the knuckle can have more range of motion to turn. It doesn't need to be fully straight, it can have certain angle, the most important step here is to match the splines correctly, from the axle and the diff, so the new seal remains unharmed. -I don't like to use a hammer to push in the axle. IMO, is better to gently use the inner cv joint as a slide hammer. When the clip inside is placed well, they can enter in one gently push. -Buying a whole new axle is faster, but it doesn't mean reusing the old driveshaft and replacing boots and cv joints is inferior. Is not as fast of course, you have to take off both cv joints, boots, clean the grease (the worst part for me), fill the new cv joints with grease, slide the boots first, install cv joints and then clamp the boots. Just like building an engine, it can turn out to be relaxing, specially if you have an air hammer to take out the old/bad outer cv joint (usually retained by a circlip). Good choice on replacing the entire knuckle, it's safer, those usually do not have too much room to increase the thread diameter. Idk if it's safe to use thread inserts.
You get more leverage if you pull straight up using your legs. I never push down anymore since I've noticed the difference. That's if you don't have a strong impact wrench. Great content! Always appreciate your approach. Always look forward to your content.
This Toyota series is really making me think I should make an investment into an old V8 4Runner! Well done! I look forward to this truck getting upgrades. (very much "Car Care Nut" Vibes!)
Heli-Coil those stripped threads. The thread will be stronger than original, you’ll maintain the factory knuckle, and an entire Helicoil kit for an M16 is about the same price as an aftermarket knuckle.
Thank you for putting this video together. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has stuck nuts and bolts. I've taken days for jobs that are only supposed to last hours on my 4th gen. OEM parts are just way too crazy expensive. I see you have aftermarket sway bar links; nice! Guessing you'll eventually replace the steering links. Looking forward to your other videos.
@@1RoadGarage I'd look for an OEM one at a local salvage yard or online.... Put that one on the 4Runner. You can assume you will never do that same job again. Who ever did that on yours should not of been wrenching. Probably did not have the proper tools. Have had my 26yr old 3rd Gen and never replaced the knuckles. I have replaced the shaft with aftermarket. 2 Xmas's ago, brother and I redid front end bushings, tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushing. I've been replacing things on it for they have not failed but at 205k miles, something might. So have replaced Braked MC with genuine part, Alternator Denso, Now my 4x4 stopped working from one day to the next, so I will be working on that diagnosis.:) Fan Clutch, Denso. Enjoy the videos!!!! Bryan In El Paso
Junkyard will save you with OEM at a super low price. Great job! No Dorman!!!!!! 😅😅😅 Or if you have a good machine shop around they can fix those holes. Might cost you.
I would've used a cheater pipe as well but pulling upward against the concrete, plus I would've been inclined to heat it to liquify any threadlock applied.
Hey Jimmy before you replace the knuckle try a tread chaser tap first. Since the treads are already there and damaged no need to recut new a one try to chase what is there to repair them first. Just my two cents.
If they're OEM, they would have a sticker, and a paint dot on the boot CLAMP. Possibly a part number etched into the part somewhere as well, so start sanding.
Looks like who ever did the cross-thread destroyed half the treads to depth so he was using the washers to pick up as many good threads as possible with the longer bolt. Looks like the hole could even be tapped deeper, but why piss around.
those cv axel boots always wear out, here in the UK they check them on a MOT/inspection, also when your full lock on the steering wheel, those rubber cv axel boots compress and rub on them selfs so they will always wear down over time
Striking the axle shaft thread can mushroom the end leaving you stuck not being able to install the dreaded castle nut. Strike with a large punch, not full face
I couldn’t really tell from the video if the bolt hole went all of the way through or not. If it does, I would run a same sized tap through the hole and first try the factory bolt. If it torques to spec you are probably good to go. You could also get a longer bolt, torque it to spec, then put a self locking nut on top for insurance. It would be a whole lot cheaper than replacing the knuckle. Apparently it has been running that way for quite some time so I wouldn’t worry too much. Thread locker on the bolt wouldn’t hurt. If it were to fail, It would most likely get noisy before complete failure. If you must replace it, I would recommend aftermarket. As a former part’s manager, I can tell you that not so commonly replaced parts are not commonly manufactured by aftermarket suppliers because they would never be able to recover their tooling costs. Many times I’ve bought aftermarket iron parts that were actually OE parts that were overruns sold to them by the OE manufacturer. They simply grind off the OE logo and call it their own part.
I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready.
It would be far-fetched to think that Dorman couldn't make a cast iron knuckle correctly, electrical bits, and carbon canisters sure, but surely not a knuckle . And get you some new dust caps to cover the axle nut. Even the Toyota repair manual called them out as one-time use. Last I checked, they were $20 at the dealer, I've also seen them online pretty cheap.
I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready
You can get a better price for OEM using Sparks Parts, or other Toyota online ordering. Don’t always go straight to dealership. Also you can look for junk yard parts. Still OEM and mostly great condition. But ALWAYS use OEM. For Toyota.
@@k4piii I wish my state still let you in the yards to look around. Pick your own parts. Not that I need anything. I just liked looking for rare parts for cars I will have one day. Or memorabilia. Like popping the trunk of an early 80s whatever, and finding a container of castrol to add to my collection. Yes...I collect castrol stuff 😂.
Funny, napa sells individual 32-37 mm sockets for less than $8 a piece Just bought a 34 and 36 for like 17 and change after tax Also had the same 25" half inch harbor freight junk breaker bar that just flexed, fought for an hour with it even used a pipe to extend it. Went to a flea market type store that sells used tools. Bought a 30 year-old napa 20" breaker bar and broke my axle nut loose within a minute. Harbor freight breaker bars, even the "high end" flex or break too easily
I went to impact and never looked back. Yes it costs a bit more but it saves you time on everything. I have 4 cars to maintain so the 1k I spent on low mid and high torque was worth it.
(Yanks crowbar direction towards face), "Wow just hit myself in the face!" "Should I move to the other side and not do that again? Nah." (Hits face again with crowbar handle) "Why would you do this to me??"
Wondering if you could have placed the axle in the hub and hammered it in from there instead of removing the brake caliper. - Better that you removed it, those bolts seemed like they needed to be moved, but I think it could have been done w/o that.
Brother, you've got a jack sitting right there, why not take the jack handle and slip it over your breaker bar, it will give you insanely amounts of leverage!
Easiest solution is to buy new and call it. But you are a RUclipsr, so better content will be to re-tap it professionally. If you DIY the retap, get some backup knuckle from a junkyard
Can someone here help out a newbie female to a foreign car. 2002 Mitsubishi 2.4 l galant es. I need cv axles do i need to get OEM or are retail stores like napa, ok? I found both front axles at the junkyard but one boot is slightly showing tiny wear on rubber..no leakage at all. I can get two new from AZ @190 or Napa..similiar price. Any other retailer to consider?? Any help in the right decision. I can take new parts to a garage to be put on but not the junkyard ones.
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
If y’all liked this video, check out this one where I replaced the sway bar bushings and end links and got rid of the infamous Toyota clunk: ruclips.net/video/YTGzvLI5LZY/видео.htmlsi=_J0PuWF6KRvZeAlW
Couple tips from a Master (RUclips) Mechanic who has done their everything stock (other than X-REAS removed) '03 4Runner CV axles 3 times, and purchased my 4th set just yesterday.
1) Don't get aftermarket axles. This can be confirmed from the Car Care Nut repair channel (and other Toyota master mechanics). Repack grease & get a reboot kit.
2) rotate the shaft at the differential so the c-clip falls in a way that provides much less resistance. I won't say how long I spent my first time, but damn was I fast on jobs 2 & 3.
3) Don't get Cardone aftermarket axles, if you don't want to replace 3 times, in 3 years.
4) Get a Milwaukee M18 Mid-Torque to save yourself a bunch of time
5) mainly 1 & 3
My 4Runner went 200k+ with original axles. Now 3 sets of Cardone HD axles have had boots go bad in as many years. Only grace is the warranty obviously. What I didn't mention before, is my newest set are OEM from a accident GX470 vehicle with 100k miles. Biggest labor mistake I've made was getting the aftermarket ones, and tossing my original ones. Those are GOLD after your realize. I pickup them up tomorrow, and then the decision to grease & re-boot now, or hope
Sorry to be a Debbie Downer, but it was a great video & I envy your lack of rust 😁 Buddy got recommended this video, and knew just who to send it to...Subscribed
I was going to say.... Yep Toyota OEM axles can't be beat.
I wish this old axles were OEM. Unfortunately, both are aftermarket. This is the best solution for me right now. I will be looking into finding a set of used OEM axles. Thanks for the tips! 👍👍
Waiting to see what you did but I personally would got to a salvage yard just to see what they have. Great video!
Being someone who recently did my 06 4runner axle and not replacing the seal only to have to go back and take the axle out just to change the seal as it started leaking, good idea on doing it all at once.
Oh man, I’m glad I did them!!
As tight as that CV axle nut was, it's not surprising they stripped out the ball joint bracket... Someone with a big impact went a little too happy.
Agree
You can try running a tap the same size it currently is through it to just clean up the existing threads. I've done it multiple times with success. And that axle nut was definitely over torqued. I've dealt with them on Toyotas multiple times and they are NOT supposed to be that difficult unless they are severely corroded. Being over tightened like that can also reduce the life of the wheel bearing.
I think this is the best option, had a similar situation with my Forester when a mechanic stripped out a bolt that connects my LCA to the body/frame, I had no option but to tap it. Keep it OEM if you decide to swap it, junk yards probably best money wise. I learned my lesson letting other people work on my cars. lol
I just had the same issue. I should of looked into something like a thread chaser, but I wanted it done and just sent it. I was able to torque it to over 110ft/lb, and I hope it stays. This is on a 2000 tacoma. Oh well.....I should of just bought a couple new bolt, one to screw on, and one to make a thread chaser with. would of probably solved the issue.
Definitely would try this first!! Good idea. Appears like most the threads are still there.
You’d want to use a thread chaser, not a tap, big difference
@@coopersloan3938 done it with a tap. Still works.
A few months ago, I had a stuck wheel lug nut that would not budge (like your CV axel nut). Rather than using heat, I put an ice cube 🧊 on the lug nut for a few minutes and was surprised how the lug nut finally was able to be loosened.😮😊
I had a similar problem, around the same time, oddly enough. Only I was tightening my lugs. Just one more turn will do the tri.... snap. ugh. cars. I love the satisfaction of doing my own work, and saving loads of money. But I don't like it when things inevitably go wrong.
@@charlesparnell5338yes, it is a major pain at times. But, if it broke for you it would have broke with a mechanic too. And that would’ve cost a ton to fix. 🤷♂️
@@1RoadGarage well not for me. I just went online and ordered the OEM hub bolt. (‘04 Rav 4) Easy fix. Used a punch; that I had cut down a bit with a grinder for a flat edge. Rotated the hub to the knockout location, and smacked it with a small sledge. 2 hits and she’s out. Put in the new one (lined up the teeth), and smacked it from behind, then used the lug nut to pull it on through. Piece of cake. 👍
Take the Knuckle to a machine shop. Let them tap and drill.
I was thinking that. Would be a nice professional job too. 👍👍
Great job. You always surpass my expectations. The shade tree mechanic lives in you. 👍👍
I keep a 6' pipe handy that will slip over the breaker bar handle and give a lot more leverage for those hard to remove nuts and bolts. Works great!
I need one of those
@@1RoadGarage Always have a breaker pipe.. Way to stick with it.
Your Chevy Tahoe is laughing at you though. :)
But I can tell you are having fun.
I use my floor jack handle. And, I stand on it and jump
I did this job myself, using Toyota re-manned axles from CVJ Axles…..highly recommended.
A Milwaukee 1/2 inch would taken it off in like 2 seconds lol
Maybe
@@1RoadGarage for sure, I do it all the time, even takes off bus/semi nuts and bolts.
Floor jack and a jack stand. Jack stand to support the socket. Floor jack to push upwards.
Thanks me later.
Dammmmm, I didn't think about that, good recommendation
@@k4piii A little sketchy but it works in a pinch.
so humble dude, stay the way you are !
Some tips:
-For axle nuts, of course, first preference is an impact, but if you need to use a breaker bar, use a deadlift kind of motion, so the breaker bar goes up instead of down. It's a way more stronger pull.
-To take out the axle from the gearbox do exactly the same you were doing with the pry bar, but instead of using your arms to pry, use a hammer, so is the hammer doing the "impact lever". Nothing will happen to the transmission case. You take off a lot of effort doing this, and the axle can get out even at the first try. I copy the trick from an English youtuber that only works changing clutches.
-To make room for the axle, just remove the tie rod end from the knuckle, this way the knuckle can have more range of motion to turn. It doesn't need to be fully straight, it can have certain angle, the most important step here is to match the splines correctly, from the axle and the diff, so the new seal remains unharmed.
-I don't like to use a hammer to push in the axle. IMO, is better to gently use the inner cv joint as a slide hammer. When the clip inside is placed well, they can enter in one gently push.
-Buying a whole new axle is faster, but it doesn't mean reusing the old driveshaft and replacing boots and cv joints is inferior. Is not as fast of course, you have to take off both cv joints, boots, clean the grease (the worst part for me), fill the new cv joints with grease, slide the boots first, install cv joints and then clamp the boots. Just like building an engine, it can turn out to be relaxing, specially if you have an air hammer to take out the old/bad outer cv joint (usually retained by a circlip).
Good choice on replacing the entire knuckle, it's safer, those usually do not have too much room to increase the thread diameter. Idk if it's safe to use thread inserts.
You get more leverage if you pull straight up using your legs. I never push down anymore since I've noticed the difference. That's if you don't have a strong impact wrench. Great content! Always appreciate your approach. Always look forward to your content.
Thanks!
This Toyota series is really making me think I should make an investment into an old V8 4Runner! Well done! I look forward to this truck getting upgrades. (very much "Car Care Nut" Vibes!)
There will be upgrades soon.
Great video Jimmy! One of the best channels on RUclips!
Wow, thank you!!
Heli-Coil those stripped threads. The thread will be stronger than original, you’ll maintain the factory knuckle, and an entire Helicoil kit for an M16 is about the same price as an aftermarket knuckle.
my thought exactly!
Its always good to expand knowledge .Thank you for showing
Good video..... I've found if you break the axle nut loose before you njack the vehicle up it save you tons of time
Older Chrysler guy here - Pretty early in the process I would have confirmed those were Right Hand Threads.
That NUT was nuts. good video
36MM 12 point vs the 35MM 6 point = YUGE diff! Thanks for sharing this
Your channel is a real source of inspiration and enjoyment. Thank you for your creativity and dedication!🐊🐌🫢🫠
Thank you for putting this video together. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has stuck nuts and bolts. I've taken days for jobs that are only supposed to last hours on my 4th gen. OEM parts are just way too crazy expensive. I see you have aftermarket sway bar links; nice! Guessing you'll eventually replace the steering links. Looking forward to your other videos.
Yeahhhh liking the title of this video 👍
Not even 1 curse word! When i heard thank you Lord you deserved a subscribe may God all mighty bless you in Jesus name Amen!
Under 35 mm is imperial 1"3/8 socket.
The 24 mm => 15/16".
If metric tools have a bit too much play, they (bolts/nuts) might not be metric...
Go OEM on the knuckle ..... shafts ok by other maker.
That’s a lot of cash. I’m going to be looking for a good used unit as a spare.
@@1RoadGarage I'd look for an OEM one at a local salvage yard or online.... Put that one on the 4Runner. You can assume you will never do that same job again. Who ever did that on yours should not of been wrenching. Probably did not have the proper tools. Have had my 26yr old 3rd Gen and never replaced the knuckles. I have replaced the shaft with aftermarket. 2 Xmas's ago, brother and I redid front end bushings, tie rods, ball joints, steering rack bushing. I've been replacing things on it for they have not failed but at 205k miles, something might. So have replaced Braked MC with genuine part, Alternator Denso, Now my 4x4 stopped working from one day to the next, so I will be working on that diagnosis.:) Fan Clutch, Denso. Enjoy the videos!!!! Bryan In El Paso
I replaced a 2006 Camry driver side cv axle. The axle nut was a 12 point 35mm with a 200ftlb torque. Used an impact.
Junkyard will save you with OEM at a super low price. Great job! No Dorman!!!!!! 😅😅😅 Or if you have a good machine shop around they can fix those holes. Might cost you.
More leverage will help a lot. Get a metal pipe, and slide it over the end of the breaker bar. Stand on it if you have to.
And Please don't say "That was easy". You'll Jynx the whole damn project! 😀
I would've used a cheater pipe as well but pulling upward against the concrete, plus I would've been inclined to heat it to liquify any threadlock applied.
Hey Jimmy before you replace the knuckle try a tread chaser tap first. Since the treads are already there and damaged no need to recut new a one try to chase what is there to repair them first. Just my two cents.
Axel nut jump up and down on bar works every time
Could’ve added an extension on breaker bar. Leverage would’ve been much easier to get axle nut off.👍🏾 great video. Good stuff.😊
Keep the stock CV, reboot it and repack it so you can keep it in the truck as a spare for when the cardone axle breaks.
The car nut channel just did a video on this for the exact same thing He had a few tricks up a sleeve that made it way easier.
If they're OEM, they would have a sticker, and a paint dot on the boot CLAMP. Possibly a part number etched into the part somewhere as well, so start sanding.
Looks like who ever did the cross-thread destroyed half the treads to depth so he was using the washers to pick up as many good threads as possible with the longer bolt. Looks like the hole could even be tapped deeper, but why piss around.
Old guy told me "ya' get what cha' pay for"...Toyota parts all the way, unless it is a custom rock crawler or something.
That older CV Axle looks almost identical to mine on my Z71 suburban
Hey Bud got a 1 3/8inch socket. Tap that on. Got a piece of pipe to extend the breaker bar.
The original Honda axles have almost hard-plastic cover for the outer axle just like what you have. I reckon it’s good quality.
those cv axel boots always wear out, here in the UK they check them on a MOT/inspection, also when your full lock on the steering wheel, those rubber cv axel boots compress and rub on them selfs so they will always wear down over time
I do not know why, The fact that Jamie Grunt/Moan got me going
I would get one from a junkyard. A factory knuckle for a fraction of the price as long as it looks to be in decent shape
If you have a salvage yard near you, that could also be an option
The axle will go in easier if you make sure the opening of the C clip is facing down. Trust me, it works.
Striking the axle shaft thread can mushroom the end leaving you stuck not being able to install the dreaded castle nut. Strike with a large punch, not full face
I couldn’t really tell from the video if the bolt hole went all of the way through or not. If it does, I would run a same sized tap through the hole and first try the factory bolt. If it torques to spec you are probably good to go. You could also get a longer bolt, torque it to spec, then put a self locking nut on top for insurance. It would be a whole lot cheaper than replacing the knuckle. Apparently it has been running that way for quite some time so I wouldn’t worry too much. Thread locker on the bolt wouldn’t hurt. If it were to fail, It would most likely get noisy before complete failure. If you must replace it, I would recommend aftermarket. As a former part’s manager, I can tell you that not so commonly replaced parts are not commonly manufactured by aftermarket suppliers because they would never be able to recover their tooling costs. Many times I’ve bought aftermarket iron parts that were actually OE parts that were overruns sold to them by the OE manufacturer. They simply grind off the OE logo and call it their own part.
I got about 4 years out of mine and 2 years for the non factory ones...2007 limited V8
I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready.
It would be far-fetched to think that Dorman couldn't make a cast iron knuckle correctly, electrical bits, and carbon canisters sure, but surely not a knuckle . And get you some new dust caps to cover the axle nut. Even the Toyota repair manual called them out as one-time use. Last I checked, they were $20 at the dealer, I've also seen them online pretty cheap.
i was thinking 2005? that's pretty new, then I realized it's almost 20 years old
A little heat goes a long way
I use a cut off piece about 4 foot long of scaffold tube put over the breaker bar
Not OE Toyota, cause the Toyota have ridges where you can knock the axle out on the inner side.
See if your local salvage yard has any 4Runners in stock and get an oem knuckle from there
That's a really hard job
I replaced my cv axles on my FJ 2yrs ago with the cardone ones there still going I also spray silicone spray on the boots seems to keep them from cracking. I have my original cv axles with new boots and grease so if the aftermarket one go bad I’m ready
You can get a better price for OEM using Sparks Parts, or other Toyota online ordering. Don’t always go straight to dealership. Also you can look for junk yard parts. Still OEM and mostly great condition. But ALWAYS use OEM. For Toyota.
Couldn't you grab a knuckle from a salvage yard?
Yeah exactly my thoughts
Problem is those 4Runner outlive people so I wouldn't be suprised if he had to go to several junkyards
@@k4piii I wish my state still let you in the yards to look around. Pick your own parts. Not that I need anything. I just liked looking for rare parts for cars I will have one day. Or memorabilia. Like popping the trunk of an early 80s whatever, and finding a container of castrol to add to my collection. Yes...I collect castrol stuff 😂.
Funny, napa sells individual 32-37 mm sockets for less than $8 a piece
Just bought a 34 and 36 for like 17 and change after tax
Also had the same 25" half inch harbor freight junk breaker bar that just flexed, fought for an hour with it even used a pipe to extend it. Went to a flea market type store that sells used tools. Bought a 30 year-old napa 20" breaker bar and broke my axle nut loose within a minute.
Harbor freight breaker bars, even the "high end" flex or break too easily
I went to impact and never looked back. Yes it costs a bit more but it saves you time on everything. I have 4 cars to maintain so the 1k I spent on low mid and high torque was worth it.
Retap old Toyota knuckle is far better than aftermarket knuckle ..
Nice job Jimmy..While youre in there you might as well replace?????
(Yanks crowbar direction towards face), "Wow just hit myself in the face!" "Should I move to the other side and not do that again? Nah." (Hits face again with crowbar handle) "Why would you do this to me??"
Wondering if you could have placed the axle in the hub and hammered it in from there instead of removing the brake caliper. - Better that you removed it, those bolts seemed like they needed to be moved, but I think it could have been done w/o that.
Heat and beat with a impact 😂
Or ice cube 🧊 it.😮
Brother, you've got a jack sitting right there, why not take the jack handle and slip it over your breaker bar, it will give you insanely amounts of leverage!
I tried. Handle of breaker bar was too big. 👍
I've got a Chevy colorado 2 inch lift same problem with the boots 🤔
Problem is any aftermarket won’t last, Toyota OEM is superior, you get what you pay for in the end.
Re, hub nut,car on the ground wheel on centre cap out 4ft tube as an extension, break the nut job done.
You would hate working on a 2005 anything from VT 😂.
That sure looks like a replacement CV axle to me.
Never ever go aftermarket on Toyota CV axles. Get a boot kit and fix it. You’ll see why in about a year or less.
How are the lower ball joints? Keep an eye on them. 🧐 And only go with OEM on those for sure!!! They are a known week link.
$80 CV is crap. You'll get to do it again lol. Enjoy it
Misleading title
Easiest solution is to buy new and call it. But you are a RUclipsr, so better content will be to re-tap it professionally. If you DIY the retap, get some backup knuckle from a junkyard
Used would be my way. A used knuckle is likely oem.
that was a hard nut to bust😂
Go back to Harbor Freight and pick up an impact wrench.
Where you went wrong is not using OEM reman. You’ll be doing this job again in 2 years.
We’ll see. 🤷♂️👍
Those are not Original CV axles wrong clamps on the Boots OEM uses different clamp. Go to the auto Wreckers for lower control arm
Can someone here help out a newbie female to a foreign car. 2002 Mitsubishi 2.4 l galant es. I need cv axles do i need to get OEM or are retail stores like napa, ok? I found both front axles at the junkyard but one boot is slightly showing tiny wear on rubber..no leakage at all.
I can get two new from AZ @190 or Napa..similiar price. Any other retailer to consider??
Any help in the right decision. I can take new parts to a garage to be put on but not the junkyard ones.
salvage yard.
Or eBay.😊
two words... salvage yard.
long tube ...
You should not work on cars with toys.
🎉😢
Come up with a new title would ya. Cringe
Thank you for your commitment to excellence! Your videos are always at the peak of quality.🥐🍺🌏