I'm going to give this channel 1 or 2 more videos before deciding to stay with it or not. I mean the video is titled "Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!" which has nothing to do with the content of the video (which is just a repeat of the last few videos) but will be discussed in the next video!!! He does like to (unnecessarily) stretch out the contents ...
I came to the comments to say much the same thing. I watched through 19 minutes of video because of the title. I figured the the huge difference in price would have something (or everything) to do with it. On the other hand, there are YT channels that warn against using aftermarket parts for poor quality.
I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, I’ve used Moog parts but there is no way would I ever use Moog bearings. Too many failures. Time to pay a tech , truck and mad customers . That’s a poor business decision. You want to take that chance, it’s not worth it to me.
@@CarlosHaeussler I'm not from the USA but when it comes to Toyota parts no one is better than OEM. There's a japanese company named 555 and they r the closest one when it comes to OEM quality and fitment. Don't know if that brand is available in the USA. They last almost as long as the OEM one with 60% less price.
There are many fake Toyota parts being sold as OEM, but are Chinese knockoff in a fake OEM looking package.. Cheaper, and lower in quality. If the part seller has a Toyota dealership address, I trust the parts as true OEM. Often it is easier just to go to the Toyota dealer and get the part.
There are cheap wheel hub/bearings available for purchase on Amazon/eBay which are manufactured in China and they have some people who have shown that the parts have failed while the vehicle was traveling in traffic resulting in the wheel coming off and causing an accident.
The problem is exacerbated by buying online period .. why I call companies like Amazon "Scamazon" as its far too easy to flog off anything by that method and the counterfeit market has become a HUGE industry because of this non store front type of transaction. Oil and fuel filters are a prime example of knock offs gone wild and the unsuspecting may wipe out their engine or diesel fuel system by using a poorly made knock off.
Yes, for sure. One time I purchased Toyota OEM on Amazon- returned it soon as I saw it. I purchase my parts online at a local Toyota dealership at a very nice discount, I pick up the parts so no shipping costs. The oil filters from Toyota inexpensive.
Are you sure that's the correct ball joint? I've never seen a ball joint where the snap ring was just hanging out in the air like that. Every single one had it butted right against the face so that the ball joint cannot move at all. The way that one is in there allows it to possibly move like 1/2 inch down if it wants to. Unlikely as it's loaded from the bottom but I'm quite sure that is not the correct part.
I've installed literally over 1000 ball joints. That's common with aftermarket ones. The snap ring is only there as backup just in case. It's a heavy press fit. That ball joint isn't moving unless the bore it's pressed into has issues.
@@Charlie-dv7ev it probably won't move because it's loaded in the direction to keep pushing in. I'm guessing it's either the wrong part or it's a part that fits multiple applications and moog is just using it because they can. Either way it's a sloppy way of doing it. Every other setup with a snap ring has like 1/32", if that, of gap.
@@agentjwa How many ball joints have you installed? I've been doing this for 28 years. This is what you get with aftermarket ball joints. It is an interference fit. The snap ring is not even needed. It is. there as back just up in case. Many vehicles out there don't even have snap rings. Just press it and forget it.
The axle nut comes off easy with an impact gun, I have taken both of mine off this way to replace the wheel hubs. I can also use my steel wheel and remove the nut while the tire is down on the ground giving resistance to turning. I have a DeWalt electric impact and with it's 330 ft/lbs of removal torque is more than sufficient to remove any axle nut.
Good for you, Toyota parts are not cheap. but if you can find a good quality aftermarket part use it, but when it comes to electrical parts I would definitely go dealership only.
Same, just got the 25% off and free shipping a few days back. Toyota runs them a few times per year. People are fools if they run anything but OEM on critical components on a Toyota. Literally turning one of the most reliable vehicles ever made into junk.
I just priced upper and lower control arms (bushings and ball joint included) on an 04 4 Runner SR-5 with OEM parts from Japan (Amayama) , they were 50% less than Toyota dealers in my area. I’ve ordered many parts from them and twice I paid a very small customs fee for imported parts directly from Japan. However, I’ve saved thousands of dollars on the last 3 orders. Toyota 4 Runners are well built vehicles, with proper maintenance, they can last decades.
Same. I get basically all my parts from impex Japan or partsouq in Dubai. Same place often dealers do and then they charge crazy prices. Just got hub assemblies with bearings for $140 usd each from impex Japan. Partsouq for all the other parts for front axle hub full refresh. Control arms also only $140ish for uppers and $200ish for lowers. No reason at all to go aftermarket. My originals have lasted 294k miles over 25 years and going to change out to only originals again on my 1999 Land Cruiser.
I would redo the hood and keep it oe as possible. Keep the whole thing oe as possible. That's just me. It's a very nice Toyota. Nothing wrong with after market good parts. Keep up the good work 👍
I make bearings for a living and my company is an OEM supplier of hub bearings for Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Tesla. And is an OEM supplier of transmission and differential bearings for Ford and Honda.
That snap ring on the new ball joint is above the mating surface about 1/4". Snap ring should be flush to surface so ball joint is captured and cannot move up or down.
Wrong. You press the ball joint all the way until it fully seats. It's not a light press. Unless there is an issue with the control arm that ball joint isn't going anywhere.
@@Charlie-dv7ev But the original one's circlip was in contact with the top surface. I thing the new one has some dimension problems in lengths. I would like to see the parts side by side to be sure.
@@CHRnorton I've pressed out and pressed in 1000s of ball joints. Have two front end jobs coming in next week. The snap ring is just for back up it is not what holds the ball joint in place. Just like a cotter pin that's only there in case the nut gets loose. A ball joint is held in due to an interference fit. Many OEM joints don't have a snap ring at all. If the joint moves in the bore, the control or whatever component the joint is pressed into is damaged and needs replacing. If he pressed the joint out until the snap ring contacted the arm, it would change ride height ever so slightly.
That was improper the way you used the torque wrench to tighten the hub bolts. The crow foot should have been 90 degrees to the wrench NOT straight out from the end.
As a former mechanic and a Toyota owner, I would disagree - Toyota parts are legendary for quality, and there is value to keeping everything OEM. I buy my parts from Toyota dealers online to save costs. That said, Moog parts are exceptional quality for aftermarket parts and I used them as replacements on my Chevy truck with great results.
- I think it depends on what you’re comparing them to. I’ve used their ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arms, but not bearings. They have a reputation for being better than Chevy or Ford, but I wouldn’t say the same of Toyota. If we’re comparing to other aftermarket parts, they’re very good. For bearings, I’d probably go with Timken and NGK.
In the description of this channel you will find that it says this channel is for entertainment purposes only and not to do what is done in these videos. As an ASE certified Master technician, I completely agree with that.
On a friend's 2004 toyota avalon, OEM struts, sold as individual pieces not as an assembly priced at $2,500. Per location. Each more than the entire vehicle was priced at. Gabriel complete struts cost $99.00. They rode well.
Highly advice getting an electric impact gun - they're fairly affordable (except the battery) and you can decide whatever brand you wanna go in by whatever tools you might need. There are plenty of lighter impacts that pack a punch nowadays (and it doesn't matter what brand anymore).
I use a DeWalt battery-powered impact to take off my hub bearing nuts, and mine are on there with 263 ft lbs final torque. It makes quick work of it with the impact action. No bracing required.
No need to buy a very expensive cordless impact wrench for $$$ unless you are a mechanic or very serious amateur and will have lots of use for it in the future. A decent low cost electric model will do fine without breaking the bank account of a weekend mechanic. Also, just saw a video about the new line of Walmart cordless impact wrench that compare very well to the much more expensive brands' models. This is an eye-opener !
@rpasco9352 for less than $300, and it matches the batteries of my other DeWalt equipment, it paid for itself in labor savings in 1 use. And now I know the best parts were used and were installed correctly. When you start breaking breaker bars, and busting your knuckles working on your truck, the logical decision is to get the right piece of equipment for the right job.
Afermarket parts are disigned for planned obsolescence ie most parts are only designed to last 2 yrs or 50k miles. Most parts had "life time warrantees" when people kept cars for 2 yrs now that people keep cars 7 yrs life time warrantees rarely exist. Some aftermarket are cost justifiable if easily changeable but if expensive to replace such as timing belts, oem parts that last the life of the car are more justifiable than 60k aftermarket junk. Some aftermarket parts ie electrical components may not have the same specifications and are less durable and/or may set codes, misfire, etc. whereas oem parts are less likely to suffer the same problems. Amazon does offer some oem parts at discount prices.
When it comes to the ball joints, you should always go OEM, no matter what. It costs more, but you’re gonna see once your ball joints fail, and tear up all that hard work you just put in. There are countless accounts all over the Internet regarding aftermarket ball joints in Toyotas, failing long before the OEM ball joints do. In most cases, under normal wear and tear, the OEM ball joints have been known to make it at least 200,000 miles. The most common thing that I see and hear regarding aftermarket ball joints(depending on which brand) , you will make it at most 90,000 miles before they fail. When it comes to Toyota ball joints, that is the one Achilles heel and is the one thing that you absolutely do not want to cheap out on. I pray that you don’t end up having your ball joints fail out on you while you’re driving down the road, but you are most certainly taking a huge risk !!
4:52 Precison is the house brand for Oh Oh Oh O'Reilly. Someone probably had work done on that side of the vehicle after the incident that caused the damage to the front bumper, and the shop used crap parts.
As info, I learned the hard way to buy OEM hub bearing assemblies for my Ram 2500. This was after 2 aftermarket bearings lasted less than a year each. I did a lot of investigation on the interwebs and found that although the aftermarket companies get licensed by the OEM (in my case SKF) to be able to produce knock offs of the original, they often cheap out on important things like materials and bearing seals. Once the seal fails, the bearing fails shortly thereafter. Note that the OEM SKFs cost me twice the amount compared to aftermarket, and they were not as abundant in supply. I don't know if this will be the same case for the Toyota, but I know Moog has lost their once good reputation. I think there are some things you can get away with using aftermarket, and sometimes even improve upon, but never again for me on bearings.
MOOG is often called the "problem creator" in the mechanic world. There is not one brand of aftermarket ball joints or bearings you should EVER use on a Toyota. Its dangerous at worst, a waste of time and money at best. They never last. OEM has very very strict ISO standards they require parts manufacturers to adhere to... aftermarket parts can be from the same company (people think they are getting a deal, newsflash they are not) and oh wow oh wow... the SAME brand parts are trash. Because they dont follow the strict ISO standards that the OEM parts are required to by the manufacturers. Even DENSO AND AISIN, who are both owned by Toyota... make cheaper (albeit still pretty decent) aftermarket parts and fluids that are not oem, and of a lower quality than the OEM Toyota parts made by Denso and Aisin. Keep it easy on yourself, just buy from a dealer, if you want good deals buy online from the dealer, I just got a 25% off coupon from Toyota a few days ago and I bought parts for me and one of my family members.. we got 25% off plus free shipping direct from Toyota dealer online. Cant beat that for good OEM parts, most made in Japan that will last hundreds of thousands of miles. I dont care if MOOG is made in the USA, its Trash and any mechanic worth a damn will tell you that. They USED to be good... been a long time since Moog was worth a damn.
I replaced a hub rear hub bearing on a Highlander the Internet said it was a Koyo bearing when I got it apart it was NTN, with the bearing number I can get one for a lot less than the dealer. I don't look at Moog anymore quality is not there. If you think Toyota OEM is expensive try Volvo or Mercedes.
Choosing aftermarket parts doesn't have to be like "picking a pig in a poke" (getting unknown quality). Do your research ! Amazon is famous for its user reviews - use them. This is why I "believe in Democracy" - a part with 1000+ user reviews will tend to show how good or bad the quality is despite the obvious reviews where the reviewers don't know much about what they are reviewing or are just pissed off because they don't know the right way to install a damage-able part (boots, bearings, etc.).
Sometimes they fix OEM defects and/or use better materials but it's hard to be sure in many cases. My personal experience with most chain stores is that all they have is bottom of the barrel at a premium price and a long warranty that only covers a replacement part.
Aftermarket parts are cheap for a reason. They're inferior and not made to exacting specs? Toyota makes quality parts. Hope it works out for you. And why didn't you replace the ball joint when you had the WB off?
It looks to me like he added way to much grease to that lower ball joint. In a short amount of time that ball joint is going to go squeak squeak. I'm a Honda guy, but hands down Toyota suspensions, especially their ball joints and tie rods, are way way better than anything else made. Good luck and God bless.
@13:01 it's not the metal shavings that are the worst thing you need to worry about. Whenever you use an abrasive (cutting wheel, sandpaper, grinder, etc) what happens as you use it? It wears down, right? Where does the grit go? Yeah. If that grit is hard enough to cut through hardened steel, you don't want to shower that grit into your bearings, hinges, pivots, ball joints, or painted surfaces. It will continue to cut for a long, long time after it become unattached.
WOW. It needed an outer boot for the CV axle, simple enough.($100 max). But decides to replace that axle($110), 2 wheel bearings($300), 4 ball joints($200) and a knuckle($300). Perhaps go back to GM. You're not welcome in Toyotaland with bad info and terrible decisions. 19 Year old Runner, 236,000 miles, that's 380,000 km's. All probably good and likely original parts. So why didn't you buy just the "Toyota Branded CV Boot Kit" mentioned in your title? Waste of everybody's time AND horrible information. Those aftermarket parts will NEVER last! OMG! Rearrange those 3 letters and add an O (MOOG!) You're going to need "Best of Luck". Sorry. AND by the way, check those $900 tires, not $1200 to $1500 as stated. (Michelins for that price or Generals for $900). They are the WRONG SIZE for that truck!!
Toyota land? It's a vehicle who cares he could crush the thing if he wanted too. I own multiple Toyotas and I could care less what parts he puts on his own vehicle. If the parts fail he can just replace them. Not everyone is scared they have to work on their vehicle.
It appeared that the ball joint was pressed in too far. The snap ring should ride flush with the surface. Or, the part is not made correctly. Which, with aftermarket parts, is not uncommon.
1991 Toyota pickup - 2WD SR5. I used ginuine parts as long as possible. But eventually, all manufacturers discontinue many parts so you have no choice but use aftermarket or salvage. I totally agree that certain parts, like a knock sensor, is best OEM. I tried several parts claiming to be OEM quality, but ended up paying the price demanded by Toyota. The new knock sensor and wire has been working for 10 years and hasn't thrown a code. Anyone with a V6 or V8 engine should not wash their engine if the knock sensor in located in the base of the "V" between the cylinder banks because water will eventually kill the knock sensor. My biggest problem has been finding parts designated for the SR5 because these trucks can't be found in salvage yards and many special parts are no longer made by toyota or aftermarket suppliers. It's a big disappointment if you want to keep a special vehicle beyond 20 years. Thanks for your informative video. It's great for beginners and DIYers like me who maintain their own vehicles.
Hey....might be wrong, but.....your original ball joint C clip was resting ON the knuckle. Your NEW ball joint had the circlip waaaaay above the knuckle which later will allow the ball assembly to possibly drop in the knuckle with negative loading. ??????
@2:20 get the milwaukee 18v 1/2" impact. It's a beast and only costs around $130. Plus no cords or compression running in the background. (don't get me wrong, i love my air tools. I have over 25 of them in all kinds)
I use the impact to loosen the axel nut and the wheel nuts before lifting the car. If you're going to do your own maintenance, buy a good impact, air hammer and compressor. The savings in time and labor will pay for them quickly.
Great video, thanks for your suggestions. I need to add something in good faith: you don't simply replace toyota oem bearing parts, less CV AXLES. Toyota sells boot kits for CV AXLES that come with their proper grease. If that driver's cv axle wasn't bad (making sounds when turning) you just needed a boot kit. You can even find remanufactured OEM CV AXLES from companies like detroit axle. Wheel hubs? go OEM. I don't even know how a toyota wheel hub could go bad but thanks for the video.
I put Moog wheel bearing (front passenger side) and the ABS dash light came on. The wheel sensor was slightly off and I had to pay for labor twice. It was my fault since I provided the part. Lesson learned. It depends on the part, but its OEM for me.
DUDE! If you're going to be making automotive videos, you ought to at least get a cordless impact wrench. There are plenty today that should be able to get passenger vehicle axle nuts off without breaking the bank. What cordless tool brand are you invested in? I bet they offer a bare tool capable of the job for under $250, maybe even under $100. Vinyl wrap and exhaust upgrade are silly for something with that many miles.
I'm sorry, but inmo,Moog isn't what it once was in terms of quality. Front hubs from NTN are excellent ( imho match or exceed OEM standards and i only have to install them one time) and cost more than twice most of units on EBay or Amazon. What's your time and effort worth?
I understand about using some aftermarket parts. I just replaced front lower control arms, struts, rear shocks and converted rear air suspension ti spring on my GX470 (basically a fancy 4th gen 4Runner) using OEM parts would have been thousands as well, especially if I would've kept air spring and adjustable shocks. I used KYB and the rear adjustable also stamped KYB and I spent less than $100 for both rear shocks.
I tried MOOG parts on a Tacoma once. Never again. They did not hold up. I only use Toyota OEM. Some online Toyota dealers sell parts at a decent discount. Your impact wrench must be really weak. Mine zips the CV axle nuts off with ease.
Yep. You have to do a lot of pricing around but you can eventually find a dealership online that sells parts at a reasonable price. For instance I found a dealership online that sells the pink coolant for $12/gallon instead of the $30+ that most do.
I agree to an extent. I go aftermarket on certain parts to save money but they are non consequential parts. I learned recently to go with only oem toyota wheel bearing assemblies. First I bought a koyo rear axle bearing for my tundra and the magnetic race was faulty and the abs signal was not registering. After trying to diagnose what went wrong, I ended up removing the koyo and putting in an oem toyota bearing. Problem solved. I burned about 200$ on getting a machine shop to press the bearings. Lesson learned.
Like other comments there is a lot of difference between OEM and aftermarket. I've used both on my 2010 Toyota and found the higher quality, higher priced aftermarket to have similar quality. Let me explain if I'm buying say a hub unit and the dealer wants $355 and I can get hubs between $60 and say $220 aftermarket I'm buying the $150-$220 dollar units. The better aftermarket units are manufactured in Japan and the $120 and cheaper units are made in Taiwan and China. If you think the OEM's are actually better wise up they're not. By 60K miles I had to replace all four original hubs with Toyota OEM units. At 120K I have replaced two Toyota OEM units already. The two new hubs are Beck/Arnley units, who is also a Toyota OEM parts supplier. They cost me $325 verses $548.50 for OEM units with a Toyota 28% discount for ordering online and picking them up from the dealer. Walk in off the street price would have been $760 with sales tax. BTW my local mechanic charged me $120 to install them. Local dealer charges $200 per side. That's a big difference in cost.
Just did an F3 word-search for anyone using the word "crow's foot". Thank you for catching that. You're probably the only one in the universe with a brain.
@@alext8828, yeah, I'm the guy that people call when they can't find a solution to their problem. I have a small circle of very intelligent friends that are experts in their respective fields. Sometimes they call me and sometimes I call them. Some of the fields are mechanics, biological warfare, telecommunications, financial, and stuff like that.
My battery 1/2 inch Ryobi impact wrench easily rips off 185 ft lb axle nuts on a FWD Bolt. Your breaker bar is on the small side. You could use a hollow jack handle as an "extension".
When you torque with a crowsfoot...it needs to be at 90 degrees (sideways) or apply a correction factor to your torque values. Assuming you did not do that...your bolts are not at the proper torque. A crowsfoot lengthens the moment arm when used in line with the length of the wrench, decreasing the torque of your bolt.
I smell Moog sponsorship! You can get Koyo or NSK hubs. They are definitely more than Moog, but screw doing that job again in 50k! Life is too short to be swapping out cheap parts
If i were not to understand english Jimmy and i looked at the conclusion scene in the end, i could have tought you were a gangster in the woods talking about how to hide bodies! I like your swag 😎God bless!
I don't know what air compressor you have, but you should get rid of that coil air hose and use either 3/8" or even better, 1/2" Flexzilla hose with the correct high flow fittings.
Except for the first miles since new, both sides will not wear the same no matter what you do. Passenger side tend to hit more ruts and pot holes and the drive shaft is different length. Moog is a long time well respect after market part.
There are a number of Toyota dealerships that have an online presence offering parts at a significant discount. With all the $ you’re saving doing it yourself, go OEM.
If there is no other option you have to go to the dealer. But if there are proven good after market parts go with them. They will give you same or more warranty for less $. But always put a good Quality brand as you also invest on your time.
On 7:17, torqueSetting = TorqueSpec * Length/(Length + Offset). I use a tape measure to get (L+O) to the crowfoot's center in one shot if it's not set at 90 deg (where error is tiny). Also, bear in mind that this isn't perfect since the Length is to the centerpoint of where your hand is. Probably videos on this.
Rock Auto. Never had issues ever with them. Parts are so cheap and delivered quickly. You can rebuild full suspension front and back for the same price as one corner from NAPA. Same part numbers and all!!!
Putting that jack handle that was right behind you when you were leaning on that breaker bar. Next time just slipped that over the end of that breaker bar. I use mine that way all the time little extra leverage.
oem parts may last many many years and 200k miles but aftermarket parts will not. my 17 year old toyota truck has got 250k+ miles on it and still has original wheel bearings, do not think aftermarket would last that long. LOL
You are seriously in need of a decently powerful impact wrench to get all those large nuts off. That made the job 10 times more difficult that it should have been.
When we had our Toyotas I would never buy parts from a Toyota stealership I’d always buy Oem parts from our local auto parts store because they are Half the price and same quality as original Toyota parts from a Toyota stealership.
The rubber seal does two things. It keeps the grease in, and the water/dirt out. When the seal is compromised, if you catch it early, you can replace the seals. Most people let things go until too much grease has escaped, and too many contaminates have entered the axle.
The answer to breaking that boat loose was a foot and a half behind you you take the handle off your jack put it on the end of the breaker bar and voila you haven't 8 ft long leverage add it to your 180 lb of body weight you could create a thousand pounds of torque without bouncing
I'm going to give this channel 1 or 2 more videos before deciding to stay with it or not. I mean the video is titled "Here's Why I Don't Buy Toyota Branded Parts!!" which has nothing to do with the content of the video (which is just a repeat of the last few videos) but will be discussed in the next video!!! He does like to (unnecessarily) stretch out the contents ...
That is just one of the reasons I will not watch anymore of his videos
yep found other videos that had titles that dont match so I am done since my time is being wasted watching completely unrelated content.
I came to the comments to say much the same thing. I watched through 19 minutes of video because of the title. I figured the the huge difference in price would have something (or everything) to do with it. On the other hand, there are YT channels that warn against using aftermarket parts for poor quality.
I wish i read this before i watched the video. I want my time back!
Well good luck with after market parts hope they last for Ya. 236k on OEM say's it all!!!!
Maybe he likes changing parts. Don't mess with a mans hobbies. lol
Exactly, I'll pay more for OEM. We have all seen aftermarket parts fail in a very short time, especially the lower ball joints.
Why do you make a simple part swap seem so complicated? It's like the end of the world when something simple fails smh
Because it makes good content. His videography and editing is top notch
I think he did a great job explaining everything. Not too complicated at all.
@@Gary_in_NoVAwould have been easier if he left the hub and dust shield off to get the ball joint remover on and press
Keep us updated on how long the Made in Thailand Moog hubs last.
I owned an auto repair shop for 40 years, I’ve used Moog parts but there is no way would I ever use Moog bearings. Too many failures. Time to pay a tech , truck and mad customers . That’s a poor business decision. You want to take that chance, it’s not worth it to me.
Here's Why You Never Mess With Your Factory Toyota Parts!!
Moog are lower end parts in comparison to oem.
So what are close or better parts than OEM in your experience ?
@@CarlosHaeussler No one can match Toyota OEM quality.
@@benchmark3332 Exactly!
@@CarlosHaeussler I'm not from the USA but when it comes to Toyota parts no one is better than OEM. There's a japanese company named 555 and they r the closest one when it comes to OEM quality and fitment. Don't know if that brand is available in the USA. They last almost as long as the OEM one with 60% less price.
The cheapest quality ball joints... do a RUclips search on cutting a moog ball joint to see how it's connected with a plastic washer 😂
There are many fake Toyota parts being sold as OEM, but are Chinese knockoff in a fake OEM looking package.. Cheaper, and lower in quality. If the part seller has a Toyota dealership address, I trust the parts as true OEM. Often it is easier just to go to the Toyota dealer and get the part.
There are cheap wheel hub/bearings available for purchase on Amazon/eBay which are manufactured in China and they have some people who have shown that the parts have failed while the vehicle was traveling in traffic resulting in the wheel coming off and causing an accident.
The problem is exacerbated by buying online period .. why I call companies like Amazon "Scamazon" as its far too easy to flog off anything by that method and the counterfeit market has become a HUGE industry because of this non store front type of transaction. Oil and fuel filters are a prime example of knock offs gone wild and the unsuspecting may wipe out their engine or diesel fuel system by using a poorly made knock off.
Yes, for sure. One time I purchased Toyota OEM on Amazon- returned it soon as I saw it. I purchase my parts online at a local Toyota dealership at a very nice discount, I pick up the parts so no shipping costs. The oil filters from Toyota inexpensive.
Should have sent the Car Care Nut a message for some help
Bingo, Amd is totally legit, I'm a regular customer of his.
And watched his video on OEM parts as well. lol
Are you sure that's the correct ball joint? I've never seen a ball joint where the snap ring was just hanging out in the air like that. Every single one had it butted right against the face so that the ball joint cannot move at all. The way that one is in there allows it to possibly move like 1/2 inch down if it wants to. Unlikely as it's loaded from the bottom but I'm quite sure that is not the correct part.
I've installed literally over 1000 ball joints. That's common with aftermarket ones. The snap ring is only there as backup just in case. It's a heavy press fit. That ball joint isn't moving unless the bore it's pressed into has issues.
@@Charlie-dv7ev it probably won't move because it's loaded in the direction to keep pushing in. I'm guessing it's either the wrong part or it's a part that fits multiple applications and moog is just using it because they can. Either way it's a sloppy way of doing it. Every other setup with a snap ring has like 1/32", if that, of gap.
@@agentjwa How many ball joints have you installed? I've been doing this for 28 years. This is what you get with aftermarket ball joints. It is an interference fit. The snap ring is not even needed. It is. there as back just up in case. Many vehicles out there don't even have snap rings. Just press it and forget it.
That ball joint is too tall for that installation. There is too much gap between the spring clip and ball joint. These are the wrong ball joints.
The axle nut comes off easy with an impact gun, I have taken both of mine off this way to replace the wheel hubs. I can also use my steel wheel and remove the nut while the tire is down on the ground giving resistance to turning. I have a DeWalt electric impact and with it's 330 ft/lbs of removal torque is more than sufficient to remove any axle nut.
Good for you, Toyota parts are not cheap. but if you can find a good quality aftermarket part use it, but when it comes to electrical parts I would definitely go dealership only.
BRB. Going to the dealer to get a 196 bulb. 😂
Sensors for sure, I'd even go junkyard for things that generally don't go bad/not a common failing part of the paticular vehicle(trans speed sensor).
Bought OEM Upper and Lower control arms left and right for my 07 4R, 1200$ from Serra Toyota during a sale. Installed it myself. Easy peasy
Same, just got the 25% off and free shipping a few days back. Toyota runs them a few times per year. People are fools if they run anything but OEM on critical components on a Toyota. Literally turning one of the most reliable vehicles ever made into junk.
@ free ship, no tax
@@CL-yp1bsyou nailed it…. and it’s not rocket science either
@@CL-yp1bswhich site?
I just priced upper and lower control arms (bushings and ball joint included) on an 04 4 Runner SR-5 with OEM parts from Japan (Amayama) , they were 50% less than Toyota dealers in my area. I’ve ordered many parts from them and twice I paid a very small customs fee for imported parts directly from Japan. However, I’ve saved thousands of dollars on the last 3 orders. Toyota 4 Runners are well built vehicles, with proper maintenance, they can last decades.
Same. I get basically all my parts from impex Japan or partsouq in Dubai. Same place often dealers do and then they charge crazy prices. Just got hub assemblies with bearings for $140 usd each from impex Japan. Partsouq for all the other parts for front axle hub full refresh. Control arms also only $140ish for uppers and $200ish for lowers. No reason at all to go aftermarket. My originals have lasted 294k miles over 25 years and going to change out to only originals again on my 1999 Land Cruiser.
Yeah toyota oem parts are readily available online. You just have to find them.
Depends on the Toyota model, I can just walk over to the line and pick the freshest one off the line its being produced on.😂
I would redo the hood and keep it oe as possible. Keep the whole thing oe as possible. That's just me. It's a very nice Toyota. Nothing wrong with after market good parts. Keep up the good work 👍
I make bearings for a living and my company is an OEM supplier of hub bearings for Toyota, Honda, Ford, and Tesla. And is an OEM supplier of transmission and differential bearings for Ford and Honda.
What is the name of this company and bearings, please.
@briantimberlake3114 NSK
@@bearing_aficionado Top notch!
That snap ring on the new ball joint is above the mating surface about 1/4". Snap ring should be flush to surface so ball joint is captured and cannot move up or down.
yeah, that is concerning to me as well. Either the control arm is heavily wallered out or the balljoint is undersized slightly.
Yes some times a few light hammer taps with the grease zerk removed will help so its seated
Wrong. You press the ball joint all the way until it fully seats. It's not a light press. Unless there is an issue with the control arm that ball joint isn't going anywhere.
@@Charlie-dv7ev But the original one's circlip was in contact with the top surface. I thing the new one has some dimension problems in lengths. I would like to see the parts side by side to be sure.
@@CHRnorton I've pressed out and pressed in 1000s of ball joints. Have two front end jobs coming in next week. The snap ring is just for back up it is not what holds the ball joint in place. Just like a cotter pin that's only there in case the nut gets loose. A ball joint is held in due to an interference fit. Many OEM joints don't have a snap ring at all. If the joint moves in the bore, the control or whatever component the joint is pressed into is damaged and needs replacing. If he pressed the joint out until the snap ring contacted the arm, it would change ride height ever so slightly.
That was improper the way you used the torque wrench to tighten the hub bolts. The crow foot should have been 90 degrees to the wrench NOT straight out from the end.
As a former mechanic and a Toyota owner, I would disagree - Toyota parts are legendary for quality, and there is value to keeping everything OEM. I buy my parts from Toyota dealers online to save costs. That said, Moog parts are exceptional quality for aftermarket parts and I used them as replacements on my Chevy truck with great results.
I can't believe all the replies saying Moog parts have lost quality and have obviously gone down-hill ! Who to believe ?
- I think it depends on what you’re comparing them to. I’ve used their ball joints, tie rod ends, and idler arms, but not bearings. They have a reputation for being better than Chevy or Ford, but I wouldn’t say the same of Toyota. If we’re comparing to other aftermarket parts, they’re very good. For bearings, I’d probably go with Timken and NGK.
Thanks Jimmy. Nice CarHt jacket. Do the hood wrap. Curious to see the result.
In the description of this channel you will find that it says this channel is for entertainment purposes only and not to do what is done in these videos. As an ASE certified Master technician, I completely agree with that.
Jimmy’s power tools are still on strike 😂😂
On a friend's 2004 toyota avalon, OEM struts, sold as individual pieces not as an assembly priced at $2,500. Per location. Each more than the entire vehicle was priced at. Gabriel complete struts cost $99.00. They rode well.
Show me the web page that claims $2500 per wheel. I simply don't believe that's the going price from any vendor.
@@rpasco9352 FROM THE DEALER. Each component sold separately.
People... Don't be afraid to down vote the video. This is just another Kilmer clone...
At 02:02 Was that a chicken casually runnin in the street in the background?!! Awesome!!! LOL
Highly advice getting an electric impact gun - they're fairly affordable (except the battery) and you can decide whatever brand you wanna go in by whatever tools you might need.
There are plenty of lighter impacts that pack a punch nowadays (and it doesn't matter what brand anymore).
I use a DeWalt battery-powered impact to take off my hub bearing nuts, and mine are on there with 263 ft lbs final torque. It makes quick work of it with the impact action. No bracing required.
No need to buy a very expensive cordless impact wrench for $$$ unless you are a mechanic or very serious amateur and will have lots of use for it in the future. A decent low cost electric model will do fine without breaking the bank account of a weekend mechanic. Also, just saw a video about the new line of Walmart cordless impact wrench that compare very well to the much more expensive brands' models. This is an eye-opener !
@rpasco9352 for less than $300, and it matches the batteries of my other DeWalt equipment, it paid for itself in labor savings in 1 use. And now I know the best parts were used and were installed correctly. When you start breaking breaker bars, and busting your knuckles working on your truck, the logical decision is to get the right piece of equipment for the right job.
Turn the wheel to expose the caliper bolts and its a piece of cake you have all the room in the world.
You can get a corded impact that puts out 450ftlbs of torque if you don't have a compressor.
Afermarket parts are disigned for planned obsolescence ie most parts are only designed to last 2 yrs or 50k miles. Most parts had "life time warrantees" when people kept cars for 2 yrs now that people keep cars 7 yrs life time warrantees rarely exist. Some aftermarket are cost justifiable if easily changeable but if expensive to replace such as timing belts, oem parts that last the life of the car are more justifiable than 60k aftermarket junk. Some aftermarket parts ie electrical components may not have the same specifications and are less durable and/or may set codes, misfire, etc. whereas oem parts are less likely to suffer the same problems. Amazon does offer some oem parts at discount prices.
Time for a Milwaukee M18 High Torque impact.
You nailed
When it comes to the ball joints, you should always go OEM, no matter what. It costs more, but you’re gonna see once your ball joints fail, and tear up all that hard work you just put in.
There are countless accounts all over the Internet regarding aftermarket ball joints in Toyotas, failing long before the OEM ball joints do.
In most cases, under normal wear and tear, the OEM ball joints have been known to make it at least 200,000 miles. The most common thing that I see and hear regarding aftermarket ball joints(depending on which brand) , you will make it at most 90,000 miles before they fail. When it comes to Toyota ball joints, that is the one Achilles heel and is the one thing that you absolutely do not want to cheap out on.
I pray that you don’t end up having your ball joints fail out on you while you’re driving down the road, but you are most certainly taking a huge risk !!
Absolutely, this is borderline harmful information in this video telling people to use aftermarket ball joints.
Agreed
4:52 Precison is the house brand for Oh Oh Oh O'Reilly. Someone probably had work done on that side of the vehicle after the incident that caused the damage to the front bumper, and the shop used crap parts.
“one thing i can tell right away” is ur axle nut was loose lol
As info, I learned the hard way to buy OEM hub bearing assemblies for my Ram 2500. This was after 2 aftermarket bearings lasted less than a year each. I did a lot of investigation on the interwebs and found that although the aftermarket companies get licensed by the OEM (in my case SKF) to be able to produce knock offs of the original, they often cheap out on important things like materials and bearing seals. Once the seal fails, the bearing fails shortly thereafter. Note that the OEM SKFs cost me twice the amount compared to aftermarket, and they were not as abundant in supply. I don't know if this will be the same case for the Toyota, but I know Moog has lost their once good reputation. I think there are some things you can get away with using aftermarket, and sometimes even improve upon, but never again for me on bearings.
MOOG is often called the "problem creator" in the mechanic world. There is not one brand of aftermarket ball joints or bearings you should EVER use on a Toyota. Its dangerous at worst, a waste of time and money at best. They never last. OEM has very very strict ISO standards they require parts manufacturers to adhere to... aftermarket parts can be from the same company (people think they are getting a deal, newsflash they are not) and oh wow oh wow... the SAME brand parts are trash. Because they dont follow the strict ISO standards that the OEM parts are required to by the manufacturers. Even DENSO AND AISIN, who are both owned by Toyota... make cheaper (albeit still pretty decent) aftermarket parts and fluids that are not oem, and of a lower quality than the OEM Toyota parts made by Denso and Aisin. Keep it easy on yourself, just buy from a dealer, if you want good deals buy online from the dealer, I just got a 25% off coupon from Toyota a few days ago and I bought parts for me and one of my family members.. we got 25% off plus free shipping direct from Toyota dealer online. Cant beat that for good OEM parts, most made in Japan that will last hundreds of thousands of miles. I dont care if MOOG is made in the USA, its Trash and any mechanic worth a damn will tell you that. They USED to be good... been a long time since Moog was worth a damn.
I replaced a hub rear hub bearing on a Highlander the Internet said it was a Koyo bearing when I got it apart it was NTN, with the bearing number I can get one for a lot less than the dealer.
I don't look at Moog anymore quality is not there.
If you think Toyota OEM is expensive try Volvo or Mercedes.
@@robno5223NTN is a good brand. They make the timing belt tensioner you find in Aisin timing belt kits.
I would’ve taken the end pipe from the jack to use for extra leverage at the end of the breaker bar.
I’d lift it and do a interior detail (high quality seat covers, new radio etc) protect the interior for as long as possible
Sometimes aftermarket is better they meet and or exceed OEM as well with warranty.
Warranty is worthless if you need to do the job twice under a year or more.
Warranty is worthless if you have to do the job twice in the same year.
Choosing aftermarket parts doesn't have to be like "picking a pig in a poke" (getting unknown quality). Do your research ! Amazon is famous for its user reviews - use them. This is why I "believe in Democracy" - a part with 1000+ user reviews will tend to show how good or bad the quality is despite the obvious reviews where the reviewers don't know much about what they are reviewing or are just pissed off because they don't know the right way to install a damage-able part (boots, bearings, etc.).
Sometimes they fix OEM defects and/or use better materials but it's hard to be sure in many cases. My personal experience with most chain stores is that all they have is bottom of the barrel at a premium price and a long warranty that only covers a replacement part.
Aftermarket parts are cheap for a reason. They're inferior and not made to exacting specs? Toyota makes quality parts. Hope it works out for you. And why didn't you replace the ball joint when you had the WB off?
My knees hurt watching you work LOL
It looks to me like he added way to much grease to that lower ball joint. In a short amount of time that ball joint is going to go squeak squeak. I'm a Honda guy, but hands down Toyota suspensions, especially their ball joints and tie rods, are way way better than anything else made. Good luck and God bless.
@13:01 it's not the metal shavings that are the worst thing you need to worry about. Whenever you use an abrasive (cutting wheel, sandpaper, grinder, etc) what happens as you use it? It wears down, right? Where does the grit go? Yeah. If that grit is hard enough to cut through hardened steel, you don't want to shower that grit into your bearings, hinges, pivots, ball joints, or painted surfaces. It will continue to cut for a long, long time after it become unattached.
WOW. It needed an outer boot for the CV axle, simple enough.($100 max). But decides to replace that axle($110), 2 wheel bearings($300), 4 ball joints($200) and a knuckle($300).
Perhaps go back to GM. You're not welcome in Toyotaland with bad info and terrible decisions. 19 Year old Runner, 236,000 miles, that's 380,000 km's.
All probably good and likely original parts. So why didn't you buy just the "Toyota Branded CV Boot Kit" mentioned in your title? Waste of everybody's time AND horrible information.
Those aftermarket parts will NEVER last! OMG! Rearrange those 3 letters and add an O (MOOG!) You're going to need "Best of Luck". Sorry.
AND by the way, check those $900 tires, not $1200 to $1500 as stated. (Michelins for that price or Generals for $900). They are the WRONG SIZE for that truck!!
Toyota land? It's a vehicle who cares he could crush the thing if he wanted too. I own multiple Toyotas and I could care less what parts he puts on his own vehicle. If the parts fail he can just replace them. Not everyone is scared they have to work on their vehicle.
It appeared that the ball joint was pressed in too far. The snap ring should ride flush with the surface. Or, the part is not made correctly. Which, with aftermarket parts, is not uncommon.
Yeah, I noticed that too.
1991 Toyota pickup - 2WD SR5. I used ginuine parts as long as possible. But eventually, all manufacturers discontinue many parts so you have no choice but use aftermarket or salvage. I totally agree that certain parts, like a knock sensor, is best OEM. I tried several parts claiming to be OEM quality, but ended up paying the price demanded by Toyota. The new knock sensor and wire has been working for 10 years and hasn't thrown a code. Anyone with a V6 or V8 engine should not wash their engine if the knock sensor in located in the base of the "V" between the cylinder banks because water will eventually kill the knock sensor. My biggest problem has been finding parts designated for the SR5 because these trucks can't be found in salvage yards and many special parts are no longer made by toyota or aftermarket suppliers. It's a big disappointment if you want to keep a special vehicle beyond 20 years. Thanks for your informative video. It's great for beginners and DIYers like me who maintain their own vehicles.
Hey....might be wrong, but.....your original ball joint C clip was resting ON the knuckle. Your NEW ball joint had the circlip waaaaay above the knuckle which later will allow the ball assembly to possibly drop in the knuckle with negative loading. ??????
All you need is the latest Milwaukee Impact. That thing is 600+ lb-ft of torque. It's about 2x more torque than any air wrench impact can deliver.
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ !
You need some nut busting torque Milwaukee impact tools to save your back 😅.
It take awhile of body pain to realize power tools weights more than gold.
@2:20 get the milwaukee 18v 1/2" impact. It's a beast and only costs around $130. Plus no cords or compression running in the background. (don't get me wrong, i love my air tools. I have over 25 of them in all kinds)
I use the impact to loosen the axel nut and the wheel nuts before lifting the car. If you're going to do your own maintenance, buy a good impact, air hammer and compressor. The savings in time and labor will pay for them quickly.
SKF wheel hubs are pretty good too
Good stuff Jimmy!
You put crap on that Toyota. Plain and simple.
Great video, thanks for your suggestions. I need to add something in good faith: you don't simply replace toyota oem bearing parts, less CV AXLES. Toyota sells boot kits for CV AXLES that come with their proper grease. If that driver's cv axle wasn't bad (making sounds when turning) you just needed a boot kit. You can even find remanufactured OEM CV AXLES from companies like detroit axle. Wheel hubs? go OEM. I don't even know how a toyota wheel hub could go bad but thanks for the video.
Another great video Jimmy
I put Moog wheel bearing (front passenger side) and the ABS dash light came on. The wheel sensor was slightly off and I had to pay for labor twice. It was my fault since I provided the part. Lesson learned. It depends on the part, but its OEM for me.
Don t forget the dust shield 😂
I would love to see you put new speakers in the 4runner and some LED bulbs just like you did on your Chevy
DUDE! If you're going to be making automotive videos, you ought to at least get a cordless impact wrench. There are plenty today that should be able to get passenger vehicle axle nuts off without breaking the bank. What cordless tool brand are you invested in? I bet they offer a bare tool capable of the job for under $250, maybe even under $100.
Vinyl wrap and exhaust upgrade are silly for something with that many miles.
But it’s another video. So it’s a wash on cost anyways for him. Anybody else. Agreed
@@AgentLokVokun BUT it makes it easier for him to do the work and thus make the videos too!
I'm sorry, but inmo,Moog isn't what it once was in terms of quality. Front hubs from NTN are excellent ( imho match or exceed OEM standards and i only have to install them one time) and cost more than twice most of units on EBay or Amazon. What's your time and effort worth?
I understand about using some aftermarket parts. I just replaced front lower control arms, struts, rear shocks and converted rear air suspension ti spring on my GX470 (basically a fancy 4th gen 4Runner) using OEM parts would have been thousands as well, especially if I would've kept air spring and adjustable shocks. I used KYB and the rear adjustable also stamped KYB and I spent less than $100 for both rear shocks.
I tried MOOG parts on a Tacoma once. Never again. They did not hold up. I only use Toyota OEM. Some online Toyota dealers sell parts at a decent discount. Your impact wrench must be really weak. Mine zips the CV axle nuts off with ease.
Yep. You have to do a lot of pricing around but you can eventually find a dealership online that sells parts at a reasonable price. For instance I found a dealership online that sells the pink coolant for $12/gallon instead of the $30+ that most do.
I agree to an extent. I go aftermarket on certain parts to save money but they are non consequential parts. I learned recently to go with only oem toyota wheel bearing assemblies. First I bought a koyo rear axle bearing for my tundra and the magnetic race was faulty and the abs signal was not registering. After trying to diagnose what went wrong, I ended up removing the koyo and putting in an oem toyota bearing. Problem solved. I burned about 200$ on getting a machine shop to press the bearings. Lesson learned.
Like other comments there is a lot of difference between OEM and aftermarket. I've used both on my 2010 Toyota and found the higher quality, higher priced aftermarket to have similar quality. Let me explain if I'm buying say a hub unit and the dealer wants $355 and I can get hubs between $60 and say $220 aftermarket I'm buying the $150-$220 dollar units. The better aftermarket units are manufactured in Japan and the $120 and cheaper units are made in Taiwan and China. If you think the OEM's are actually better wise up they're not. By 60K miles I had to replace all four original hubs with Toyota OEM units. At 120K I have replaced two Toyota OEM units already. The two new hubs are Beck/Arnley units, who is also a Toyota OEM parts supplier. They cost me $325 verses $548.50 for OEM units with a Toyota 28% discount for ordering online and picking them up from the dealer. Walk in off the street price would have been $760 with sales tax. BTW my local mechanic charged me $120 to install them. Local dealer charges $200 per side. That's a big difference in cost.
When it comes to the lower ball joints, I will only use Toyota OEM. They are known to fail and the aftermarket ones just don't last very long.
Did you take the additional length of the crow's foot into account when torquing the bearing assembly?
Just did an F3 word-search for anyone using the word "crow's foot". Thank you for catching that. You're probably the only one in the universe with a brain.
@@alext8828, yeah, I'm the guy that people call when they can't find a solution to their problem. I have a small circle of very intelligent friends that are experts in their respective fields. Sometimes they call me and sometimes I call them. Some of the fields are mechanics, biological warfare, telecommunications, financial, and stuff like that.
Nice chickens running in the back ground 2:04
I see the chicken. Its the only thing worth watching in this video. Thanks, LoL
My battery 1/2 inch Ryobi impact wrench easily rips off 185 ft lb axle nuts on a FWD Bolt. Your breaker bar is on the small side. You could use a hollow jack handle as an "extension".
That 3/4 moon shape sheet metal piece is a SPLASH SHIELD, not a dust shield. There is no need to deflect dust, very unlike water.
When you torque with a crowsfoot...it needs to be at 90 degrees (sideways) or apply a correction factor to your torque values. Assuming you did not do that...your bolts are not at the proper torque. A crowsfoot lengthens the moment arm when used in line with the length of the wrench, decreasing the torque of your bolt.
I smell Moog sponsorship! You can get Koyo or NSK hubs. They are definitely more than Moog, but screw doing that job again in 50k! Life is too short to be swapping out cheap parts
I have that style of ball joint press works great, I have the add on kit as well.
I would suggest one gets a set of six point box wrenches .
If i were not to understand english Jimmy and i looked at the conclusion scene in the end, i could have tought you were a gangster in the woods talking about how to hide bodies! I like your swag 😎God bless!
I don't know what air compressor you have, but you should get rid of that coil air hose and use either 3/8" or even better, 1/2" Flexzilla hose with the correct high flow fittings.
Except for the first miles since new, both sides will not wear the same no matter what you do. Passenger side tend to hit more ruts and pot holes and the drive shaft is different length. Moog is a long time well respect after market part.
Please don't wrap the hood or roof, just have them re-painted to match the rest of the vehicle.
Thanks for the ongoing 4Runner video series 👍
For information you should put a drop of oil on the dry antiseize what will activate it for final torque.
There are a number of Toyota dealerships that have an online presence offering parts at a significant discount.
With all the $ you’re saving doing it yourself, go OEM.
weekend budget overland build!
If there is no other option you have to go to the dealer. But if there are proven good after market parts go with them. They will give you same or more warranty for less $. But always put a good Quality brand as you also invest on your time.
5:54 ,bro the seal for the cv joint was already with the hub hahahahaha!!!!!!!
Do an exhaust upgrade you will love it I did on my 2010 v6 tacoma
There are many alternative parts, From Tomei to Denso to NSK to TDK to Aisin etc, everyone of them are made in Southeast Asia and Taiwan...
On 7:17, torqueSetting = TorqueSpec * Length/(Length + Offset). I use a tape measure to get (L+O) to the crowfoot's center in one shot if it's not set at 90 deg (where error is tiny). Also, bear in mind that this isn't perfect since the Length is to the centerpoint of where your hand is. Probably videos on this.
Rock Auto. Never had issues ever with them. Parts are so cheap and delivered quickly. You can rebuild full suspension front and back for the same price as one corner from NAPA. Same part numbers and all!!!
Get one of the new M12 stubby impact wrenches. Made short work of the axle nut on the Toyota.
de bumper mount for a 2007 Yaris. The stealership wanted $137.00 for it. I found one on line for$9.00. Never buy parts from a stealership.
Putting that jack handle that was right behind you when you were leaning on that breaker bar. Next time just slipped that over the end of that breaker bar. I use mine that way all the time little extra leverage.
oem parts may last many many years and 200k miles but aftermarket parts will not. my 17 year old toyota truck has got 250k+ miles on it and still has original wheel bearings, do not think aftermarket would last that long. LOL
That jack handle makes a great breaker bar extension.
Hi Jimmy might be a good idea to paint the dust shields mine rotted off so l left them off didn't notice any difference !
But of grease would have been better
"The [front right hub] bolts don't have any form of thread locker on them." Then what's all that white stuff painted onto all them ???
You are seriously in need of a decently powerful impact wrench to get all those large nuts off. That made the job 10 times more difficult that it should have been.
When we had our Toyotas I would never buy parts from a Toyota stealership I’d always buy Oem parts from our local auto parts store because they are Half the price and same quality as original Toyota parts from a Toyota stealership.
Moog used to be okay but now they've moved onto cheaper manufacturers. Better off with Sankei 555.
11:48 You need a larger ball joint press - get an 11-12 inch press, problem solved. No need to cut off ball joint studs get it to fit.
Who changes the drive shaft because the rubber is split, sorry I don't get that part
Idk id only change the u joints😂
Because the grease leaks out and the CV axle will end up needing replaced or a new boot and repack it full of fresh grease
A content creator in search of content.
The rubber seal does two things. It keeps the grease in, and the water/dirt out. When the seal is compromised, if you catch it early, you can replace the seals. Most people let things go until too much grease has escaped, and too many contaminates have entered the axle.
The answer to breaking that boat loose was a foot and a half behind you you take the handle off your jack put it on the end of the breaker bar and voila you haven't 8 ft long leverage add it to your 180 lb of body weight you could create a thousand pounds of torque without bouncing