he'll probably charge more in labor, but that's fair as he assumes the risk. but eotd customer will save a buck. but I can see why they say replace the whole unit. this job ain't for the faint of heart.
@@alanprather8399 Despite recently upping his labor rate(deservedly so) he's still one of the lowest in the entire country, most shops are $200+ per hour now. He probably saved that customer $1500..
@@alanprather8399 I think his hourly is less than neighboring dealerships (almost positive it is) and, irrespective of that, it's getting done right the first time. So that's a lot less stress on a person especially if you're working, kids, etc. and need your car back.
@MrWorldasmaya he's not a parts cannon mechanic he literally is an old school mechanic that figures out what's wrong with the vehicle. Then since he's explained several times that the area he's in isn't the best part of NY economic wise does the repairs at the best cost possible for his customers.
You did a viscous coupler bearing in a Pontiac Vibe WAAYY back in your first days. I know that because I used that vid to change the bearing on our own Pontiac Vibe. Literally spent $50 on parts and a puller and gear lube. Saved me over $1000 thanks to Mr. O for which I am eternally grateful!!
You know Eric, most of the time it's not the repair that makes me watch the video. It's those priceless lines like: And, just throw away the permatex because the next time you need it it'll be hard as a rock!
Yep, it's happened to all us DIY types. When it's a year between uses (if we're lucky) the gooey stuff turns hard, out of spite, for lack of us paying attention. Kinda like our girlfriend.
I’ve had good luck with Hondabond HT. The nozzle is still done after the first use, but the tube can still be salvaged. Another plus, it dries slower, but sets up almost like hot melt glue or anaerobic sealant for bond strength
I found you many moons ago to change my Viscous Coupler on my Pontiac Vibe AWD. Very informative video. I just changed the bearings in it. Car went to Wilbert's 5 years after. I think you were just starting RUclips. I thank you for your wisdom.
You don't have that luxury at a dealer, especially if it's warranty, I work for ford and when I do warranty work we have to print out a one use only list of parts, you'd be surprised at all the stuff the manufacturer says not to reuse, it's silly.
Great job Mr O. Not only repaired the problem, but did it cost effectively for the customer who is raising a family and needs their vehicle and doesn’t need a $2K bill that would put a strain on their finances.😊
NSK 95DSF01 RAV4 transmission differential bearing 95*120*17mm does have the o-ring groove. Great work!!! Oh 5 points off at the car show ... no o-ring. LOL
I am so glad you posted this video. I forgot to pick up the dust shield. I just ordered it and will do the work on Thursday. I have been listening to it for a good year now LOL! Just haven't had the ambition to do anything about it. I forgot how easy it was.
Hi Eric, I work for an oem that builds industrial diesel machines. I started this job and found you soon after. Part of my job is fixing machines when they fail final testing, usually due to supplier quality or assembly issues. I have learned a ton from your diagnostic videos, you have made that part of work so much better. It's a great example of "the engineer needs to listen to the mechanic more often." I also just wanted to tell you i have been in contact with aeswave to get a uscope and terminal test kit for our department and thought I'd give you a shoutout to them. Those guys over there know you by name! They had only wonderful things to say. So happy to have found you. Thank you for all you do.
That was pretty good. Most mechanics would not have attempted that repair. They would have just told the Lady that the part cost $2K or whatever. You're the man!
I think this type of videos are the best Eric does. Showing what a truly skilled mechanic he is. So many of them today are just parts changers. Eric's ability to diagnose electrical issues as well is some of the best I have ever seen.
I routinely refer people to this channel so that they can learn how to do proper electrical diagnostics. I can't help them much in one comment on a forum, but if they come here and watch some videos, maybe they can learn a few things. Where else can you find out that a bad wire in a taillight housing would cause transmission shifting issues (IIRC)?
Dude whatever you charge it ain't enough. You go above and beyond for your customers. I hope most of them know how lucky they are to have a mechanic that truly does what others are unwilling to do.
I true professional with concern and integrity. Hats off to you sir. I have been fighting the good fight for many years but the nobody respects the truth anymore. Your customers are lucky to have found you.
I genuinely appreciate your "fix it at the component level" attitude, even in videos where it isn't feasible or the right decision (or when you tear something down to show that maybe it could have been diagnosed/fixed at that level) DIYers can be doing even more of this since we don't need to make profit on our time like you do. Thank you for helping encourage people to fix stuff instead of just replace it/discard it -- all of your videos do this to some degree, and others even more
Stressfull week, Toddler is asleep. Nothing better than to sit down, drink a cup of tea and watch Eric O. fix a car and save the customer tons of money!
Your remark about opening the partly used can of POR-15 was unbelievably accurate. Been there and done that, so I know EXACTLY what you're talking about!!!!
I’m a tech with John Deere , but a car tech, that switched in 2000 when cars were getting stupid, found tractors get stupid too, to a higher level. The reason they sell a complete component instead of parts is due to inventory of dead stock or part numbers, if they don’t seek the parts individually , the component is 1 number compared to a couple hundred individual part numbers, it’s a cost saving thing for big business, doesn’t help folks that want to actually fix things, usually if you get a bearing or seal number you can source from bearing manufacturer. Deere has an excellent cross reference for a lot of stuff. After wrenching all day, still enjoy watching someone else struggle a bit !! lol, take care Eric !
You are always professional and teaching me something. It’s a shame that so many shops do take pride in there work. I’m getting too old to do some of my own work. Thanks always!
Now I'm imagining a parts warehouse manager trying to figure out why sales of "viscous couplers" have dropped in the last quarter, hitting the search engines, and cursing SMA up/down. :)
Man I was totaly waiting for the no rust Florida Ray bashing. Love it when you guys do that. He made a reference from you last week of Eric O tiger tight. Ive heard Wes, Darik, and matt also make references before. You guys should do more of that. You guys are all brilliant but have different ways so it's so cool when you talk about each other. Oh crap, hey nice job on the coupler impressive.
I LOL'd at the POR-15 can-opening comment! So I have to tell how to avoid that: if you have a partial can of it left over, do this: take a piece of saran wrap from the kitchen, and lay it over the open can. Then carefully push it down into the can until the plastic touches the surface of the liquid, and then form the plastic from the center outward and then along the insides of the can, getting all of the air out between the liquid and the plastic, while keeping the outside edges of the plastic wrap outside of the can. Then tap the lid on over the plastic. This does two things: 1) it keeps the air away from the liquid which makes it last a lot longer, and 2) it keeps the lid from getting stuck on. Oh, Eric, I sent you a care package for your hydraulic press that you will LOVE. Someone sent one to Rainman Ray in Florida and he showed it on his video so I bought myself one, and liked it so much that one is on its way to you. It's small, made in America, and will make using your press much easier.
I been using fluid film for the last 4 years in the rust belt & have no issues with rotting out frame, & I do not spray it on as these professional do with car lifts.
I started using it on my 14 Ram and no real rust yet. Just a little surface rust on the drive shaft and around the bottom of the body mounts. Fluid film is the S and without SMA I would never have never known about it.
The best way to deal with rust belt. Is to never be there. Or even better. When u realize where u are. Leave. So u can appreciate a reasonable existence
I live in Florida and I used to smile at your salt and snow. Now that I’ve lived through two major hurricanes in the last two weeks, I’m beginning to rethink my opinion 😢
But man, the salt and humidity up there sure is busy changing aluminum back to bauxite powder and steel to iron oxide. It’s like a beach/coastal effect on the vehicles.
Did you ever see yourself A Florida Man? World Famous Darwin Award winners My cousin is still waiting for Insurance money for 4 years,and how many are bankrupt ? Fort Myers WHACKED AGAIN
I was talking to the screen, saying use the bearing to push in the cover, that's when I knew I was way to into your Vlog and this repair, Ha! Thanks for all the learning, it's a real pleasure to get the mystery out of getting under the car to do some work! I never took mechanics in high school and now I do 90% of my own work and help friends who are having issues.
PRO TIP: Heat the housing and the ITCC coupling falls right out. There is service data to change these bearings. You have to go to JTECT, the division of Toyota that makes the ITCC. Also, because you put the wrong bearing in it (no o-ring), you have to use some type of anerobic sealant between the bearing and housing. The east with which it went in also means water is going in there now.
A good teaching comment. An earlier commenter said he was doing it for the second time in 10 years. So even with possible water intrusion, this repair is better than a new coupler. Also, we all have to learn to get better at doing things.
Not sure if the Oring is there for sealing, but I've seen other instances where it's there for anti rotation of the outer race, so yeah if the replacement doesn't have an Oring groove I'd put some anaerobic sealant.
I was scrolling looking for someone who had already said he should have used some anerobic in place of the o-ring. It's not to make it a sealed enclosure but to limit moisture intrusion between the steel and aluminum to slow the growth of galvanic corrosion.
About $50 for that radial ball bearing. Don't know how much SMA charged, but perhaps 10% of the cost of the new coupling alone. The amount of money Eric O COULD make is far greater than what he charges. Truly an asset to the community both locally and in this forum.
I don't think that most people realize that most complicated components are assembled with relativly common parts. Just got to sit down and figure it out.
@@efil4kizum Eric's got CLASS and many many happy customers.He will not be pitching pennies by the back wall or cleaning is tools waiting for somebody to screw over royally Seen enough of that in my career,it's sickening
A nearly 1 hour video, my favorite. Thank you for the time to show us the details and the time in editing! Those bucks oughta like this cool weather, hope you’re able to keep after a Booner!
I've worked on cars for 52 yrs as a DYI, and I have learned a great deal from your show, but most of all, i've learned what cars I should not buy.🇨🇦 Thanks
I can make it easy for you. Don't buy any new cars. I spent ALL DAY replacing a starter on a Crapillac. ALL DAY. Back when a starter was was a cake job, now it's an ALL DAY job. Somebody shoot me.
The Haldex AWD coupler on my Ford Five Hundred stopped working. Completely different from this; uses a wet clutch pressure pack with a hydraulic pump servo, pressure switch and a diff control module. Ugh. Ford had NOTHING to service the coupler; not even the special coupler/hydraulic fluid. Read the forums - shared most of the parts with the C60/C70 Volvos. Got the pressure switch and fluid from the Volvo dealer, and a hydraulic pump from RockAuto/Dorman. Still didn't work. Had a bad Diff control module. ☹Had to get a used one shipped in from a distant eBay wrecking yard with the same build code. Popped it in and woohoo - Traction and Wrench icons disappeared from the dash! Great Success! I had my AWD back! I can understand why the forums said to spend $3K on a replacement rear-end. Still worth the time and money I spent though - spent about $500 in parts and maybe 3-4 of labor. Like Eric says: "You can do it!" Cheers from the Great White North!
Just a tip if you anticipate topping off or draining gear oil- Loosen the fill plug first thing. If you can't get the thing loosened, you're toast. Also, a good set of seal drivers or bearing drivers would make it much easier to install that bearing and deflector. Good job, as usual, SMA!
That’s what’s great about you Mr O you can see that the bearing can be replaced and you don’t need the whole assembly it’s a shame the stealership wouldn’t do that
Toyota Sienna car show judge here. Great attention to detail on the dust shield. I have docked points for that being uneven before. This Lady’s will definitely make the top 5 at nationals this year.
You're a good man Pop Pop. My grandfather came up in the great depression and had hands like yours. I miss those hands. They had stories to tell I'm sure. Sorry that it's so painfully for ya though.
great job. You saved that person a chunk of money. I like the way you jump into things that seem so complicated, and you make them look easy. Of course, we know that very little is easy on any vehicle. I enjoyed the video
Hey Eric! Been watching your channel since the covid days and love your content and personality! I work at TMMI over here in Princeton Indiana and one of my jobs for the past 14 years is attaching that rear u joint to the rear diff. I will say that you would be fired by our standards lol. It is in my specific work instructions to line up a paint mark on one of those studs to match a paint mark on one hole of that u joint. If it’s not aligned correctly quality will call it out and a defect would occur and we would have to stop the line and take it apart and rotate the shaft to align those marks on the diff. I know you’ve been a mechanic a long time and know more than me about if it is balanced or not but they tell us it is when the right stud and u joint hole is aligned. Not too bad getting it back together btw! We install the 2 center bearings loosely then you cup your hand around the u joint flange and push it up on to the diff. After a couple thousand you get the hang of it. Then I hand start the 4 nuts with the spacer and torque them down with a battery impact tool calibrated to a specific torque. Anyways just wanted to comment because installing that driveshaft is what I do everyday and seeing you work on it was cool. Matt
@@windward2818 The A/C lines that run front to back on the Siennas with the rear HVAC unit are two pieces joined together at a center union. Those unions are known to corrode and cause a refridgerant leak.
Not related to this video….but I owe you so much gratitude…so my car got stolen…I decided to purchase the good old millennial anti theft device model of my new car, and since then no problems. Thx a bunch
I look forward to your videos, here across the pond. There used to be a British Magician called David Nixon, his catchphrase was “ The impossible we do at once, miracles take a little longer”
Not surprised on the "no fix" from Toyota bearing. I have a 2014 Ram 1500 with 4WD and the right side output shaft (called the intermediate shaft) on the front differential had the splines corrode so badly it was tearing up new CV axles. Left side stub shaft can be pulled out and replaced no problem. Right side is in the cone on the right side of the differential and has to be pulled apart to be replaced. Ram will not sell you the parts. $2900 replacement diff is their only answer. Turns out that a company in Canada makes a shaft and sells it with the correct bearings (2) and seals (2). 4 hours later my mechanic had it back together and warrantied until it corrodes again. Nice! Total cost (without CV axle) was about $700. If you have a 2013 to 2019 (2020 classic) RAM with a vibration in the right front it might be the same problem I had especially if you live in the frozen north country.
Tip. If the truck is lifted. That's the reason why the CV axle is getting torn up. The same truck that my brother in law has, did the same thing. A local shop installed the fancy lift kit. Tore up the seals and shafts. I asked him. Are these factory shafts? He said yes. I told him, the shop should have installed the new longer CV axles. Anyhow, he said, drop it back to factory specs. He supplied all of the parts. Took me 2 days. He also purchased the intermediate shafts and seals as a kit. The truck runs very nice and no more noises.
I truly didn’t appreciate Mr. O’s skill and knowledge until he successfully beat the crap out of that housing and absolutely NOTHING fell off his workbench!
You do something that very few shops today do. You actually disassemble components and repair them to save your customers some money. Most shops it's new or nothing. That's not being a mechanic, that's being a tech. The world needs more mechanics........
EXACTLY!! I remember years ago fixing a part for my father-in-law's hay baler and those parts guys said it could not be repaired ,...... replace only. Even my brother-in-law said just leave it alone and that he will help him get the money to get it fixed and was even getting my father-in-law convinced that he needed the $1200+ to fix it. I took it upon myself to try and help and when I got the assembly apart,....... turns out it was 2 bad bearings and seals which at the time were relativly cheap to replace and surprisingly quite common. It took me 45 min. to rip apart and another 1 hr. or so round trip to town and back and it cost less than $90 all together ( got parts from my local NAPA dealer too,.... not a sponsor ). Got the assembly back together, back on the baler and had him up and going by lunch. He was shocked that I was able to get it done quick. John Deere said it was 2 weeks backorder. The point is this,........ if it is put together with retaining clips and bolts,..... chances are it can taken apart,..... it just takes time to figure it out. As Eric O. says,...." Use your noodle. "
I liked your comment about trying to reopening a can of POR 15. I read somewhere about using plastic wrap before resealing and it seemed to work. Getting the lid off without a paint can opener definitely was challenging!
This is your house we do things your way here. God knows they gave you a second helping on common sense. Some people cant or wish they could do as well as you do. Buddy I’m relaxing and learning. I have guys who work with me watch you. Car guy but loving my EV and think I’m staying. We do what you do we troubleshoot just on different stuff. You are a natural like the guy who taught me. I struggled then one day the light went on and i cant get the damn thing to go out. Relax enjoy yourself because you are also a great teacher.
You too!! I hate to tell you how many Astro tools I've bought from seeing how well they work watching Eric use them in his videos. Have the straight connector pliers, didn't know they had angled ones. now just need the Lisle part number for them... Thanks Eric!!!! Eric should have links in his video's so he can get a stipend for the advertisement and product reviews he unknowingly does for the tools used in the video. Dave
I have those Lisle branded connector disconnect pliers both the straight and the angled and they are the nuts. When you’re 65 and have arthritis working on very old connectors they are an absolute time saver and stress saver.
First of all: You people say the name of the state of Flarida weird. And B: Thank you for doing the research and work to save this customer (and all of them) money with a safe, cost effective fix.
Another great repair video easy to watch the whole way through. You, sir, are really an excellent mechanic. And fun to watch as you figure things out, faux cursing as you do. Your customers/clients, are very lucky to have an honest, thinking mechanic, who takes on challenges for all the right reasons. Do it right. Do it to last. Do it at a fair price. Cheers.
Love that you're showing how to repair what ya can instead of just replacing everything like they want! If "they" actually cared about the environment they would make the vehicle manufacturers design stuff to actually last and whatever can wear out to be easily Repaired not replaced.
Can't think of many mechanics wanting to try a fix like this i the UK. Great work! FYI, if you want to keep an open silicone usable, vacuum bag it. Managed to keep tubes of rtv usable for 3 years before.
Can't see why not, I've done 3 gearbox rebuilds with just new bearings, it isn't hard. Next week I'll be rebuilding a turbocharger at a fraction of the price of a complete one but all the moving parts and seals will be replaced. Not counting removal and installation it's about 10 minutes work.
I have a rear hum in my 2013 sienna awd that I need to look at. Was assuming that when I do the brakes next I would check the wheel bearings. Now I need to look the viscous coupler as well. Love these videos Eric! I watch em all
it's just a metal "slinger", it only drives onto the rotating center flange and it doesn't have a seal or fasten to the outside housing. a section of large exhaust pipe that fit or cut down the side to expand and fit would have worked great in combination with the press or block of wood to drive it down. but installed is installed, whatever works. 😁
Big thumbs up for approaching the repair of a so called non-servicable item. So many of them out there today, it might be as well worth trying to fix them rather than paying a fortune to replace them. Why are we calling us fitters/mechanics if we can't find a suitable workaround over the hurdles these corporate engineers put in place to prevent us. Greetings from Down Under.
The reason I have a fridge in the shop is to put parts like that dust ring in the freezer for a time to shrink them slightly for easier assembly. My story, sticking to it.
To install it you would need to heat it. If you freeze it the bore will shrink & piss you off more. Being thin sheet metal heat would be hard to apply without warping it. So carefully smacking it is the way to go. The freezer does help with installing certain bushings.
I know Eric knows this. But Toyota or any other car manufacturers don't make bearings. If you can get it apart the number will be on the bearing. Will cost way less to buy from a bearing distributor. Never buy OEM bearings....if you have time to fool with it. Great video.
Typical manufacturers treachery. Easy fix but they would rather screw you to death for the whole assembly. Such a shame! Good thing SMA is available. A great mechanic with trustworthy skills and the ability to work "outside the box". Way to go, Mr. O!!
Some times I think I only watch your videos to see salt damage (west coast man). But they are always entertaining and I enjoy the quality of work. Thanks for the content
Yes i remember an older video on this, possibly a matrix… I found it around the time my 2008 RAV4 had this problem at 150k. Dealership was obtuse diagnosing it. This is where your video helped me understand the problem. Stealership basically wanted to do a 5k transmission swap. Think the part was $1.1k at the time. Alls well that ends well. Happened on my GFs RAV4 too around 180k.
Good Old Toyota Sienna and the Vicious Coupler Issues typical never understood why there was no break down in the parts catalog Eric O 0:10 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
Thanks for the awesome video! I recently saw the video where you changed the bearing in a Pontiac Vibe (9 years ago), and you went to town with a hammer to get the dust shield back on in a matter of seconds. That video helped me replace the bearing on my 09 RAV4. When the bearing goes out on my wife’s AWD Siena, I now have another great source.
yeah, a wire nut is what I normally use, generally "red", backfill with some silicone and screw it on some. painters tape over the end and wrapped tight works great for extra cleanliness in construction settings.
I always used the old bearing as the installed grind it slightly so it slips over the housing loose fit. And press on if you got a press, we had press. Good job ERIC.
Good job! Recently had a worn out joint on my rear driveshaft for my 4wd Toyota Urban Cruiser (Europe spec). Toyota suggested a complete driveshaft for a mere $3.000 plus labor, no separate parts available. Luckily I found a specialist willing to swap the one bad joint and balance it for a quarter of the Toyota money. Always a good idea to question replacement of expensive parts versus fixing it.
Very rare to find a mechanic willing to go through that much trouble to save his customer some money. Well done, Mr. O.
he'll probably charge more in labor, but that's fair as he assumes the risk. but eotd customer will save a buck. but I can see why they say replace the whole unit. this job ain't for the faint of heart.
@@alanprather8399 Despite recently upping his labor rate(deservedly so) he's still one of the lowest in the entire country, most shops are $200+ per hour now. He probably saved that customer $1500..
@@alanprather8399 I think his hourly is less than neighboring dealerships (almost positive it is) and, irrespective of that, it's getting done right the first time. So that's a lot less stress on a person especially if you're working, kids, etc. and need your car back.
@MrWorldasmaya he's not a parts cannon mechanic he literally is an old school mechanic that figures out what's wrong with the vehicle. Then since he's explained several times that the area he's in isn't the best part of NY economic wise does the repairs at the best cost possible for his customers.
@@haroldbenton979 Yes, I know that:)...I never said otherwise.
It's great to see a mechanic fix something rather than just replace everything.
One of the few channels I watch where I hit the like button before I even start watching it!
Because it's always a good and entertaining video
Ditto!
His early stuff from when he first started was great too. Always patient and treats his viewers as if they were in the shop with him.
I do the same
Me, too!👍Eric's, a smart mechanic!
You did a viscous coupler bearing in a Pontiac Vibe WAAYY back in your first days. I know that because I used that vid to change the bearing on our own Pontiac Vibe. Literally spent $50 on parts and a puller and gear lube. Saved me over $1000 thanks to Mr. O for which I am eternally grateful!!
You know Eric, most of the time it's not the repair that makes me watch the video. It's those priceless lines like: And, just throw away the permatex because the next time you need it it'll be hard as a rock!
No parts falling off...no smoke behind us..😅
Yep, it's happened to all us DIY types. When it's a year between uses (if we're lucky) the gooey stuff turns hard, out of spite, for lack of us paying attention. Kinda like our girlfriend.
Truer words have never been said.
Yep, how many times have we gone back to that permatex and it's hard as a rock.
I’ve had good luck with Hondabond HT. The nozzle is still done after the first use, but the tube can still be salvaged. Another plus, it dries slower, but sets up almost like hot melt glue or anaerobic sealant for bond strength
I found you many moons ago to change my Viscous Coupler on my Pontiac Vibe AWD. Very informative video. I just changed the bearings in it. Car went to Wilbert's 5 years after. I think you were just starting RUclips. I thank you for your wisdom.
Love fixing things rather than replacing expensive components and making car companies rich 👍👍
You don't have that luxury at a dealer, especially if it's warranty, I work for ford and when I do warranty work we have to print out a one use only list of parts, you'd be surprised at all the stuff the manufacturer says not to reuse, it's silly.
@@bleachinuri Pretty much all manufacturers of AWD diffs consider them non serviceable sealed units. I'm not sure why.
@@Ungood-jl5ep Thi$ i$n't a big my$tery
Here because I like to watch techs repair stuff. Great job! That repair will outlive the car.
Great job Mr O. Not only repaired the problem, but did it cost effectively for the customer who is raising a family and needs their vehicle and doesn’t need a $2K bill that would put a strain on their finances.😊
NSK 95DSF01 RAV4 transmission differential bearing 95*120*17mm does have the o-ring groove. Great work!!! Oh 5 points off at the car show ... no o-ring. LOL
But I hid it behind the dust shield. I know how to trick the judges ;-)
I just picked up the bearing for this on my 2013 Sienna. I have done it before years ago. I am glad you put this video up to remind me how to do it.
I am so glad you posted this video. I forgot to pick up the dust shield. I just ordered it and will do the work on Thursday. I have been listening to it for a good year now LOL! Just haven't had the ambition to do anything about it. I forgot how easy it was.
Hi Eric,
I work for an oem that builds industrial diesel machines. I started this job and found you soon after. Part of my job is fixing machines when they fail final testing, usually due to supplier quality or assembly issues. I have learned a ton from your diagnostic videos, you have made that part of work so much better. It's a great example of "the engineer needs to listen to the mechanic more often."
I also just wanted to tell you i have been in contact with aeswave to get a uscope and terminal test kit for our department and thought I'd give you a shoutout to them. Those guys over there know you by name! They had only wonderful things to say. So happy to have found you. Thank you for all you do.
That dust shield reminded me of the lid on the old metal cans of Nesquik chocolate mix.
You're dating yourself sir haha. I remember the metal cans too :)
Also on Twinnings tea cans back in the day.
Your comment made me chuckle because I remember that back when I made myself some chocolate milk.
Oh yes the metal can open it with a spoon. And that great milk in the glass bottle in the milk shute.
Back when everything was made of metal. Good times
That was pretty good. Most mechanics would not have attempted that repair. They would have just told the Lady that the part cost $2K or whatever. You're the man!
You sir are an asset to your community. 40 year tech here and I appreciate your knowledge.
I think this type of videos are the best Eric does. Showing what a truly skilled mechanic he is. So many of them today are just parts changers. Eric's ability to diagnose electrical issues as well is some of the best I have ever seen.
1000% agree.
I routinely refer people to this channel so that they can learn how to do proper electrical diagnostics. I can't help them much in one comment on a forum, but if they come here and watch some videos, maybe they can learn a few things. Where else can you find out that a bad wire in a taillight housing would cause transmission shifting issues (IIRC)?
Dude whatever you charge it ain't enough. You go above and beyond for your customers. I hope most of them know how lucky they are to have a mechanic that truly does what others are unwilling to do.
A good mechanic are a dime a dozen, but one with integrity, skill, pride, trustworthy and values are rare, especially in New York 😮
I true professional with concern and integrity. Hats off to you sir. I have been fighting the good fight for many years but the nobody respects the truth anymore. Your customers are lucky to have found you.
I genuinely appreciate your "fix it at the component level" attitude, even in videos where it isn't feasible or the right decision (or when you tear something down to show that maybe it could have been diagnosed/fixed at that level) DIYers can be doing even more of this since we don't need to make profit on our time like you do. Thank you for helping encourage people to fix stuff instead of just replace it/discard it -- all of your videos do this to some degree, and others even more
and then he fixes it and resells it on the interwebz as the raw part for much less than the $2K (i hope so in many cases)
Toyota need to use this as a training video on how to repair their vehicles. Amazing job Eric!
Stressfull week, Toddler is asleep. Nothing better than to sit down, drink a cup of tea and watch Eric O. fix a car and save the customer tons of money!
Your remark about opening the partly used can of POR-15 was unbelievably accurate. Been there and done that, so I know EXACTLY what you're talking about!!!!
Shit product. You are paying commercial prices for a consumer product. Marketing... be smarter than the marketing.
Good job Eric. It’s nice to see a honest mechanic
I’m a tech with John Deere , but a car tech, that switched in 2000 when cars were getting stupid, found tractors get stupid too, to a higher level. The reason they sell a complete component instead of parts is due to inventory of dead stock or part numbers, if they don’t seek the parts individually , the component is 1 number compared to a couple hundred individual part numbers, it’s a cost saving thing for big business, doesn’t help folks that want to actually fix things, usually if you get a bearing or seal number you can source from bearing manufacturer. Deere has an excellent cross reference for a lot of stuff. After wrenching all day, still enjoy watching someone else struggle a bit !! lol, take care Eric !
Now is severe.
Just realized, you’re closing in on 1 million subs……very cool!
You are always professional and teaching me something. It’s a shame that so many shops do take pride in there work.
I’m getting too old to do some of my own work. Thanks always!
I have watched TONS of your videos and have NEVER heard you spout the term "Eye-crometer". Classic! Love it. I'm stealing that one.
The thing about being a mechanic is tho actually fix stuff. Nice work Eric O
Now I'm imagining a parts warehouse manager trying to figure out why sales of "viscous couplers" have dropped in the last quarter, hitting the search engines, and cursing SMA up/down. :)
some shops would go south and buy the hole axle have it shipped it its all the same prices fix it replace it etc.
This has been known for a long time and they even had a service bulletin for RAV4, but not the other Toyotas and Lexus for some reason
Man I was totaly waiting for the no rust Florida Ray bashing. Love it when you guys do that. He made a reference from you last week of Eric O tiger tight. Ive heard Wes, Darik, and matt also make references before. You guys should do more of that. You guys are all brilliant but have different ways so it's so cool when you talk about each other. Oh crap, hey nice job on the coupler impressive.
I LOL'd at the POR-15 can-opening comment! So I have to tell how to avoid that: if you have a partial can of it left over, do this: take a piece of saran wrap from the kitchen, and lay it over the open can. Then carefully push it down into the can until the plastic touches the surface of the liquid, and then form the plastic from the center outward and then along the insides of the can, getting all of the air out between the liquid and the plastic, while keeping the outside edges of the plastic wrap outside of the can. Then tap the lid on over the plastic. This does two things: 1) it keeps the air away from the liquid which makes it last a lot longer, and 2) it keeps the lid from getting stuck on.
Oh, Eric, I sent you a care package for your hydraulic press that you will LOVE. Someone sent one to Rainman Ray in Florida and he showed it on his video so I bought myself one, and liked it so much that one is on its way to you. It's small, made in America, and will make using your press much easier.
I think the world would be a better place, if there were more shops like south main auto. Cool video. Like always.
Fluid film, even though It's messy, works like a charm in the rust belt
I been using fluid film for the last 4 years in the rust belt & have no issues with rotting out frame, & I do not spray it on as these professional do with car lifts.
I thought Eric would FF the bottom of the diff.
I started using it on my 14 Ram and no real rust yet. Just a little surface rust on the drive shaft and around the bottom of the body mounts. Fluid film is the S and without SMA I would never have never known about it.
Since the bolts will need cutting off anyways. Why not powder coat?
The best way to deal with rust belt.
Is to never be there.
Or even better.
When u realize where u are.
Leave.
So u can appreciate a reasonable existence
This here shows the difference between a mechanic and a parts changer! Mechanic for the win!
I live in Florida and I used to smile at your salt and snow. Now that I’ve lived through two major hurricanes in the last two weeks, I’m beginning to rethink my opinion 😢
Not so bad now is it 🤷♂️
But man, the salt and humidity up there sure is busy changing aluminum back to bauxite powder and steel to iron oxide. It’s like a beach/coastal effect on the vehicles.
Did you ever see yourself A Florida Man? World Famous Darwin Award winners
My cousin is still waiting for Insurance money for 4 years,and how many are bankrupt ? Fort Myers WHACKED AGAIN
I was talking to the screen, saying use the bearing to push in the cover, that's when I knew I was way to into your Vlog and this repair, Ha! Thanks for all the learning, it's a real pleasure to get the mystery out of getting under the car to do some work! I never took mechanics in high school and now I do 90% of my own work and help friends who are having issues.
PRO TIP: Heat the housing and the ITCC coupling falls right out. There is service data to change these bearings. You have to go to JTECT, the division of Toyota that makes the ITCC. Also, because you put the wrong bearing in it (no o-ring), you have to use some type of anerobic sealant between the bearing and housing. The east with which it went in also means water is going in there now.
Troy's Garage did one in this way about 6 months ago.
A good teaching comment. An earlier commenter said he was doing it for the second time in 10 years. So even with possible water intrusion, this repair is better than a new coupler. Also, we all have to learn to get better at doing things.
You can see at around 20:10 that the old bearing is pretty corroded on one side of the o ring and looking clean on the other side.
Not sure if the Oring is there for sealing, but I've seen other instances where it's there for anti rotation of the outer race, so yeah if the replacement doesn't have an Oring groove I'd put some anaerobic sealant.
I was scrolling looking for someone who had already said he should have used some anerobic in place of the o-ring. It's not to make it a sealed enclosure but to limit moisture intrusion between the steel and aluminum to slow the growth of galvanic corrosion.
About $50 for that radial ball bearing. Don't know how much SMA charged, but perhaps 10% of the cost of the new coupling alone. The amount of money Eric O COULD make is far greater than what he charges. Truly an asset to the community both locally and in this forum.
I don't think that most people realize that most complicated components are assembled with relativly common parts. Just got to sit down and figure it out.
So he does not feel the need to RAPE the lowly customer pockets??
@@efil4kizum RAPE?
@@efil4kizum Eric's got CLASS and many many happy customers.He will not be pitching pennies by the back wall or cleaning is tools waiting for somebody to screw over royally
Seen enough of that in my career,it's sickening
Your video on the viscous coupler for the Toyota Matrix was how I found your channel. Still watching years later. Thanks for your insights!!
A nearly 1 hour video, my favorite. Thank you for the time to show us the details and the time in editing! Those bucks oughta like this cool weather, hope you’re able to keep after a Booner!
I've worked on cars for 52 yrs as a DYI, and I have learned a great deal from your show, but most of all, i've learned what cars I should not buy.🇨🇦 Thanks
If you can get 160K on a vehicle in upper ny state, that’s a testament to longevity.
I can make it easy for you. Don't buy any new cars. I spent ALL DAY replacing a starter on a Crapillac. ALL DAY. Back when a starter was was a cake job, now it's an ALL DAY job. Somebody shoot me.
@@MrSloika I have a cavalier that has every hot wire in the car bolted to the starter. If I ever change it again I'm putting in a distribution block.
No smoke and no parts falling - that's good 🙂 Good job, Eric!
Reading out that bearing part number even though you're not replacing it? Doin the Lord's work sir!
It's what I hope for when I watch a video haha
NSK 95DSF01 is the actual bearing part number
@@Clynikal It is listed as a differential bearing with gasket seal
Best friend a customer could ask for! Well done!!
The Haldex AWD coupler on my Ford Five Hundred stopped working. Completely different from this; uses a wet clutch pressure pack with a hydraulic pump servo, pressure switch and a diff control module. Ugh. Ford had NOTHING to service the coupler; not even the special coupler/hydraulic fluid.
Read the forums - shared most of the parts with the C60/C70 Volvos. Got the pressure switch and fluid from the Volvo dealer, and a hydraulic pump from RockAuto/Dorman. Still didn't work. Had a bad Diff control module. ☹Had to get a used one shipped in from a distant eBay wrecking yard with the same build code. Popped it in and woohoo - Traction and Wrench icons disappeared from the dash! Great Success! I had my AWD back!
I can understand why the forums said to spend $3K on a replacement rear-end. Still worth the time and money I spent though - spent about $500 in parts and maybe 3-4 of labor. Like Eric says: "You can do it!" Cheers from the Great White North!
Like my father use to say, " Nothing to it, just do it ".
Just a tip if you anticipate topping off or draining gear oil- Loosen the fill plug first thing. If you can't get the thing loosened, you're toast. Also, a good set of seal drivers or bearing drivers would make it much easier to install that bearing and deflector. Good job, as usual, SMA!
That’s what’s great about you Mr O you can see that the bearing can be replaced and you don’t need the whole assembly it’s a shame the stealership wouldn’t do that
FYI the dealership doesn't make the parts catalog
Stealership?! I like that word! It’s a singlet!
They got to much overhead and rathervreplace the whole assembly.
They don't repair parts, they swap them.
If anyone needs the info, I did this on 2010 RX350 a few weeks ago. It's pretty much the same procedure and the parts match 2014 highlander.
Toyota Sienna car show judge here. Great attention to detail on the dust shield. I have docked points for that being uneven before. This Lady’s will definitely make the top 5 at nationals this year.
What about the o-ring on the bearing though. It would take a pretty sharp judge to call her out on that. I'm hoping for top 10 at best
@@SouthMainAuto O-ring X-ray machine is not in the budget yet unfortunately. Maybe next year
You're a good man Pop Pop. My grandfather came up in the great depression and had hands like yours. I miss those hands. They had stories to tell I'm sure. Sorry that it's so painfully for ya though.
Well you may not know squat about car mechanics BUT we all know you are a GENIUS because you somehow climbed way above your station and snagged Mrs.O.
great job. You saved that person a chunk of money. I like the way you jump into things that seem so complicated, and you make them look easy. Of course, we know that very little is easy on any vehicle. I enjoyed the video
Hey Eric! Been watching your channel since the covid days and love your content and personality! I work at TMMI over here in Princeton Indiana and one of my jobs for the past 14 years is attaching that rear u joint to the rear diff. I will say that you would be fired by our standards lol. It is in my specific work instructions to line up a paint mark on one of those studs to match a paint mark on one hole of that u joint. If it’s not aligned correctly quality will call it out and a defect would occur and we would have to stop the line and take it apart and rotate the shaft to align those marks on the diff. I know you’ve been a mechanic a long time and know more than me about if it is balanced or not but they tell us it is when the right stud and u joint hole is aligned. Not too bad getting it back together btw! We install the 2 center bearings loosely then you cup your hand around the u joint flange and push it up on to the diff. After a couple thousand you get the hang of it. Then I hand start the 4 nuts with the spacer and torque them down with a battery impact tool calibrated to a specific torque. Anyways just wanted to comment because installing that driveshaft is what I do everyday and seeing you work on it was cool. Matt
Coming from an actual Toyota technician in Canada I think this is awesome! If only Toyota built the rear A/C lines for the Siennas properly!
Do the lines rust out? What's wrong with the lines?
@@windward2818 The A/C lines that run front to back on the Siennas with the rear HVAC unit are two pieces joined together at a center union. Those unions are known to corrode and cause a refridgerant leak.
Not related to this video….but I owe you so much gratitude…so my car got stolen…I decided to purchase the good old millennial anti theft device model of my new car, and since then no problems. Thx a bunch
@@logicthought24 yup
I look forward to your videos, here across the pond. There used to be a British Magician called David Nixon, his catchphrase was “ The impossible we do at once, miracles take a little longer”
Not surprised on the "no fix" from Toyota bearing. I have a 2014 Ram 1500 with 4WD and the right side output shaft (called the intermediate shaft) on the front differential had the splines corrode so badly it was tearing up new CV axles. Left side stub shaft can be pulled out and replaced no problem. Right side is in the cone on the right side of the differential and has to be pulled apart to be replaced. Ram will not sell you the parts. $2900 replacement diff is their only answer. Turns out that a company in Canada makes a shaft and sells it with the correct bearings (2) and seals (2). 4 hours later my mechanic had it back together and warrantied until it corrodes again. Nice! Total cost (without CV axle) was about $700. If you have a 2013 to 2019 (2020 classic) RAM with a vibration in the right front it might be the same problem I had especially if you live in the frozen north country.
Tip. If the truck is lifted. That's the reason why the CV axle is getting torn up. The same truck that my brother in law has, did the same thing. A local shop installed the fancy lift kit. Tore up the seals and shafts. I asked him. Are these factory shafts?
He said yes. I told him, the shop should have installed the new longer CV axles.
Anyhow, he said, drop it back to factory specs. He supplied all of the parts. Took me 2 days.
He also purchased the intermediate shafts and seals as a kit.
The truck runs very nice and no more noises.
@@2nickles647 Not my issue. In my opinion, lifts are kids. Mine problem is age and rust.
Congratulations on this repair taking less than an hour. That’s impressive.
I truly didn’t appreciate Mr. O’s skill and knowledge until he successfully beat the crap out of that housing and absolutely NOTHING fell off his workbench!
You do something that very few shops today do. You actually disassemble components and repair them to save your customers some money. Most shops it's new or nothing. That's not being a mechanic, that's being a tech. The world needs more mechanics........
EXACTLY!! I remember years ago fixing a part for my father-in-law's hay baler and those parts guys said it could not be repaired ,...... replace only. Even my brother-in-law said just leave it alone and that he will help him get the money to get it fixed and was even getting my father-in-law convinced that he needed the $1200+ to fix it. I took it upon myself to try and help and when I got the assembly apart,....... turns out it was 2 bad bearings and seals which at the time were relativly cheap to replace and surprisingly quite common. It took me 45 min. to rip apart and another 1 hr. or so round trip to town and back and it cost less than $90 all together ( got parts from my local NAPA dealer too,.... not a sponsor ). Got the assembly back together, back on the baler and had him up and going by lunch. He was shocked that I was able to get it done quick. John Deere said it was 2 weeks backorder.
The point is this,........ if it is put together with retaining clips and bolts,..... chances are it can taken apart,..... it just takes time to figure it out. As Eric O. says,...." Use your noodle. "
I liked your comment about trying to reopening a can of POR 15. I read somewhere about using plastic wrap before resealing and it seemed to work. Getting the lid off without a paint can opener definitely was challenging!
Love watching ppl who actually enjoy mechanics. Great vids man
This is your house we do things your way here. God knows they gave you a second helping on common sense. Some people cant or wish they could do as well as you do. Buddy I’m relaxing and learning. I have guys who work with me watch you. Car guy but loving my EV and think I’m staying. We do what you do we troubleshoot just on different stuff. You are a natural like the guy who taught me. I struggled then one day the light went on and i cant get the damn thing to go out. Relax enjoy yourself because you are also a great teacher.
Yay for the home school mom and the small business that truly understands the concept of "Customer service".
I added a new tool to the collection. Lisle connector tool! Thanks Eric!
You too!! I hate to tell you how many Astro tools I've bought from seeing how well they work watching Eric use them in his videos. Have the straight connector pliers, didn't know they had angled ones. now just need the Lisle part number for them...
Thanks Eric!!!! Eric should have links in his video's so he can get a stipend for the advertisement and product reviews he unknowingly does for the tools used in the video.
Dave
I have those Lisle branded connector disconnect pliers both the straight and the angled and they are the nuts. When you’re 65 and have arthritis working on very old connectors they are an absolute time saver and stress saver.
Here comes the smoke, squinch! Car owners i your area are lucky to have you looking out after their autos. Hello, Mrs 'O'.
First of all: You people say the name of the state of Flarida weird. And B: Thank you for doing the research and work to save this customer (and all of them) money with a safe, cost effective fix.
Flooo-ri-daaa
Good video as always Nice Repair On the Viscous coupler Bearing and dust shield 47:49 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
A press would be useful
Another great repair video easy to watch the whole way through. You, sir, are really an excellent mechanic. And fun to watch as you figure things out, faux cursing as you do. Your customers/clients, are very lucky to have an honest, thinking mechanic, who takes on challenges for all the right reasons. Do it right. Do it to last. Do it at a fair price. Cheers.
I really appreciate the work that you do and the fact that you try to save your customers money good job
Another home run. Your attention to detail is very impressive.
A helpful hint from my old grade school teacher; concave bends inward like a cave.
And remember the Principal is always your PAL. Haha
Love that you're showing how to repair what ya can instead of just replacing everything like they want! If "they" actually cared about the environment they would make the vehicle manufacturers design stuff to actually last and whatever can wear out to be easily Repaired not replaced.
Can't think of many mechanics wanting to try a fix like this i the UK. Great work!
FYI, if you want to keep an open silicone usable, vacuum bag it. Managed to keep tubes of rtv usable for 3 years before.
Can't see why not, I've done 3 gearbox rebuilds with just new bearings, it isn't hard. Next week I'll be rebuilding a turbocharger at a fraction of the price of a complete one but all the moving parts and seals will be replaced. Not counting removal and installation it's about 10 minutes work.
I have a 2015 Highlander and I think they are basically the same as the Sienna. Thanks for the great Videos!
I have a rear hum in my 2013 sienna awd that I need to look at. Was assuming that when I do the brakes next I would check the wheel bearings. Now I need to look the viscous coupler as well. Love these videos Eric! I watch em all
I love your videos, have not commented on any of them. They have helped me a lot. I am 68 and you have helped me very much. ❤
Who else was shouting at the screen "USE THE HYDRAULIC PRESS !!!!" when he was trying to get the dust seal in ? 😄
Where I worked, I replaced many bearings and seals. Had a nice electric press that made these operations smooth.
I was! Nice and smooth. Camera exaggerated the noise,I’m sure.
it's just a metal "slinger", it only drives onto the rotating center flange and it doesn't have a seal or fasten to the outside housing.
a section of large exhaust pipe that fit or cut down the side to expand and fit would have worked great in combination with the press or block of wood to drive it down. but installed is installed, whatever works. 😁
Big thumbs up for approaching the repair of a so called non-servicable item. So many of them out there today, it might be as well worth trying to fix them rather than paying a fortune to replace them. Why are we calling us fitters/mechanics if we can't find a suitable workaround over the hurdles these corporate engineers put in place to prevent us. Greetings from Down Under.
The reason I have a fridge in the shop is to put parts like that dust ring in the freezer for a time to shrink them slightly for easier assembly. My story, sticking to it.
and of course we believe refrigerators with something in them are more efficient, something liquid encases in aluminum. For the environment!
and your liquid libations no doubt....LOL
With the bearing going back in so smoothly, makes me wonder why not install the dust shield first?
To install it you would need to heat it. If you freeze it the bore will shrink & piss you off more. Being thin sheet metal heat would be hard to apply without warping it. So carefully smacking it is the way to go. The freezer does help with installing certain bushings.
@@paulschoonover2084 It's the last part that gets installed because otherwise you wouldn't get the housing on.
I know Eric knows this. But Toyota or any other car manufacturers don't make bearings. If you can get it apart the number will be on the bearing. Will cost way less to buy from a bearing distributor. Never buy OEM bearings....if you have time to fool with it. Great video.
Hey Eric. Your videos are awesome, your commentary is hilarious and informative, and your skills are top tier. I love my new SMA hoodie👌
Love people like you that are passionate about what they do.
Yes I am still out here still watching your videos.. I think I was subscriber 1600 .. but I just get lost in the sea of comments anymore 😮
You never get lost because you have never changed your screen name. I remember you :)
The only squats we're doing these days is when we sit on the toilet, my dudes.
I remember when Eric closed in on 10k subscribers and he made the local Avoca newspaper. That felt like the big leagues 😂
@@COBRO98 yeah these days my hip pain wakes me everyday and I have not been to work in 10 months due to a back injury on the job
Typical manufacturers treachery. Easy fix but they would rather screw you to death for the whole assembly. Such a shame! Good thing SMA is available. A great mechanic with trustworthy skills and the ability to work "outside the box". Way to go, Mr. O!!
For such a small town, you sure have a lot of car shows !!
Edutainment in spades. This would be a tough repair without a lift, but I could do it now if I had to. Thank you! Great work!
Love these repairs, when you do what they say can’t be done.
Some times I think I only watch your videos to see salt damage (west coast man). But they are always entertaining and I enjoy the quality of work. Thanks for the content
my fav part was when you were that doesn't feel right and stopped. that is the mark of expirence, the stopping part and then rethinking the situation.
Yes i remember an older video on this, possibly a matrix… I found it around the time my 2008 RAV4 had this problem at 150k. Dealership was obtuse diagnosing it. This is where your video helped me understand the problem. Stealership basically wanted to do a 5k transmission swap. Think the part was $1.1k at the time. Alls well that ends well. Happened on my GFs RAV4 too around 180k.
Good Old Toyota Sienna and the Vicious Coupler Issues typical never understood why there was no break down in the parts catalog Eric O 0:10 @South Main Auto Repair LLC
Thanks for the awesome video! I recently saw the video where you changed the bearing in a Pontiac Vibe (9 years ago), and you went to town with a hammer to get the dust shield back on in a matter of seconds. That video helped me replace the bearing on my 09 RAV4. When the bearing goes out on my wife’s AWD Siena, I now have another great source.
You said about the tube on end of permatex don't throw away just screw a black number 10 electrical connector on it till you ready to use it again.
yeah, a wire nut is what I normally use, generally "red", backfill with some silicone and screw it on some. painters tape over the end and wrapped tight works great for extra cleanliness in construction settings.
I always owe your professionalism. Please continue making these great instructional videos.
A good tip for you, push a small amount of Vaseline into the tip of your rtv/caulk tubes to keep them from drying.
A little Vaseline goes along ways. 😅
Thick or thin, Vaseline will get it in…
I always used the old bearing as the installed grind it slightly so it slips over the housing loose fit. And press on if you got a press, we had press. Good job ERIC.
Another job well done. Saving the client money.
Good job!
Recently had a worn out joint on my rear driveshaft for my 4wd Toyota Urban Cruiser (Europe spec). Toyota suggested a complete driveshaft for a mere $3.000 plus labor, no separate parts available. Luckily I found a specialist willing to swap the one bad joint and balance it for a quarter of the Toyota money.
Always a good idea to question replacement of expensive parts versus fixing it.
Thank you for another terrific episode