Just finished a similar job on my Forester - I used the press kit you have & with the right size disc found it very good at pulling the seals into place without needing to hammer them home.
Good video and advice apart from one thing. With grease, the more the merrier is incorrect. I was informed years ago by a bearing manufacturer that over greasing was the most common reason for premature failure as it can lead to localised overheating. Other than that, good, to the point video.
@@idonotwantahandle2 I've also heard this from professional mechanics. The extra grease has nowhere to go and thus create unnecessary pressure and churning which could damage the seals. At some point the grease could prevent smooth rolling. I could not believe it at first but I checked out some old bearings and yes some of them are full of grease but the bearing is stuck or hardly rolls.
Thought it may be worth noting that my 30 year old DD still has all its original wheel bearings. 250k on original bearings suggests I am not doing something wrong.
@@idonotwantahandle2 "Churning" does not cause bearing failure. Look up bearing failure causes, it isn't on the list. If grease needs to get out, it finds a way past the seals quite easily 😃
Holy moly! You have made a difficult-looking task look MUCH easier to perform. The fact you convinced me to get the proper tools for the future, made me a subscriber! Thank you so much!
I liked the video. I just installed rear wheel bearings on my 84 Porsche, and When I checked the play I was horrified. I almost took them off thinking i damaged them installing them. THEN I remembered the hub nut gets tightened to 300 NM and after that it was rock solid no play!
The details makes the difference between total failure or total success Thank you so very much for doing and going the extra mile instead half as like 95% of youtubers these days
This video came up automatically... I've done this several times, so I watched to see how you liked the tool. I like mine a lot as well. I have noticed that mine is a lot happier when I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads of the tool. Great video!
Right on. I do that too from time to time. I should do it each time just to make everything nice and easy. I am glad you like your tool also. Its been a life saver for me 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun All four are press in 😒I own two Escapes, my Parents own two, and my Brother had one for a while. I've done seven or eight on Escapes now, and only one was not the front drivers side. That CV axle is on more of an extreme angle on that side, and I assume that's why it's more prone to going bad.
I’m only halfway through this video and my mind is already made up. It’s absolutely Great. Your explanations and the filming are just brilliant. You explain the pros and cons. Just Amazing. You’ve got my subscription. Thank you for posting. Regards, Joe.
This is how a video should be done, great work! Ive never done this before but now I have confidence to do it by watching your video. You were very thorough in your explanation, thanks.
Thank you for this video I used it to learn how to use these tools and save me over 600 dollars on one job! The work was brutal but everything turned out so ty ty ty good sir!
With the bearing alone was $26.00, I got, bearing-hub assembly ready to bolt on for $18.00 on Ebay. Knocked old hub off and bolted new on hardest part was taking the tire off.
That's what I like about my 09 fxt...all bolt on easy peasy hubs. My 94 impreza on the other hand, tiny press type bearings. 😂 Luckily I've had one of those press sets for probably 15 years. Definitely the best way for driveway bearing replacement. 👏
Really well done, I paused and replayed this one a few times. We don't see this kind of detail with sealed bearings, it was eye opening to see how these old style open bearings come apart. Good point about no grease on the outside of the races during installation. Although it might be tempting to use antiseize, you don't want that getting into the bearing surfaces. I understand your point, they are better left dry, they are supposed to seize a little on each side. I've heard remarks about taking care around speed sensors, when would you try to take the sensor out before doing the bearing?
Thanks! I really appreciate that. The speed sensor should always be removed before repair. The particular Subaru I was working on had a very short sensor that didn’t protrude enough to need removal. But if the sensor is there it’s always best to remove if you can to avoid damage while working in and around that hub area. I’m glad you like the detail of the video! A lot of effort went into making that video. It’s a hard video to capture and also a difficult job compared to a bolt in bearing. Totally doable. But with both videoing and working it was a lot or organization. Thanks for checking that one out! 😀
I did inspect it. I live in the rust belt so we are used to everything being rusted. It's solid cast still and pretty strong. Superficial rust thankfully 😃
I bought the entire knuckle assembly bearing included…. Yes it was more $$ but fast change out with out buying a bearing press. This was on a Honda civic
I just purchased a full size traditional press and it worked perfectly on my 2011 Toyota Venza AWD front passenger bearing replacement. Thanks for your video
Thank you for this video. Have to do my front and rear soon. Was going to just buy a whole hub bearing kit, but this will be much more cost effective in the long run. Mk4 VW Golf.
No problem!! The concepts will work great on front and rear on your VW. The front especially. The rear bearing might be easier to buy the hub kit for you (and me). It's a unique design compared to anything else out there. I would also recommend buying the best bearings available so you don't have to do it twice. Let me know how your project goes! 😃🔧🔧
I have a 30 gallon compressor which can put out only 12 CFM. I have Aircat guns mini a regular size. They will remove any fastener quickly, but my compressor can't supply enough sustained air. You need a compressor that puts out 25CFM inorder to do any sustained output.
Awesome video. Very thorough and to the point. Others should take notes on how you stepped through the whole video and put confidence in others to follow your steps and attain success. A1 100% Absolutely well done through and through!
SOLID! I’m doing a rear wheel bearing on an ls400 and there’s no videos on it however this press in style is the same so thank you for the informative tutorial! I appreciate this a million 😎🤙
@@EasyFixShaun it’s been a hassle, but mainly because I don’t have the inner & outer seal and I need to also order the deflector on the inside I destroyed mine, in the process of removing the old bearing casing
@@stairwaytotevin Sorry your project isn't going great. The sealed bearing styles are much easier generally. I like those better. The extra seal steps mess me up all the time too. I forget them and have to disassemble again to get them installed. Been there for sure! Stick with it. Hang in there. Think your way through and be as patient as you can be. "it's just nuts and bolts". 😃
thank you very much. i was looking for a video for my 03 forester. i just clicked on the first video that i searched under “ wheel bearing press “ and i was soo happy i clicked on this video even more happy that it was another subaru car . so it was the exact same steps !!
Overall yeah, but that pneumatic wrench is overkill. In the end You'll se bearing rotates too hard... If You'll crack few last times by hand shall be flawless...
Everything in the video can be done by hand. Power tools make some processes easier and faster. By hand is always the best. One can get a better "feel" for the repair 😀🔧
2:26 - Correct.👍👍 Second usually to very high mileage, spacers are a reason for bearing failure…changes wheel geometry, putting extra/abnormal stress on the bearing.
@@EasyFixShaun I personally think they went out of the way to make things harder for the average mechanic to get things done , they need to go back to the original wheel bearings from the 60s and 70s ! Great video of doing this job !
Thank you so much for this video! I just did this on both sides of my 2003 WRX and saw this was also a bugeye. Thankfully, this was how I did it (it was my first time pressing an unsealed bearing and I was nervous I should not have pressed on the inner bearing to install the hub but I didn't see any other way). All seems well and time will tell... 😂
Very well presented and some top quality tips! I'm a novice mechanic and seeing someone do it differently is always good for opening the mind of other ways to do things. With these Subaru bearings I usually just pull the whole hub and slap it in the press, I can do both sides in 2hrs quite comfortably without rushing, I wonder how fast you smash it out this way? I feel like the press method is much simpler/easier assuming you have the tools on hand. We don't have to worry about rust where I live so that probably makes things much easier if you wanna remove multiple arms etc.
The tool works really fast for me. With no rust I could beat a traditional press time easily. Plus if the the cv axle can be removed with out removing any steering or suspension adjustment bolts, an alignment may not be needed. If the knuckle is removed an alignment is needed afterwards. I prefer the on car tool. I don't think I have used a traditional press for a wheel bearing replacement in at least a decade. The only exception that comes to mind would be like a Toyota Tundra front or rear wheel bearing at times. Especially the rear. There are always exceptions to the rule. I would say the on car press does 99% of press in bearings out there though. Super valuable tool to have and try. Make sure you get a kit with a fine thread bolt if you are going to use it a lot. Those last a decade or so vs corse thread 😃🔧
I was here notating the Amazon tools then saw that you have the links, amazing! First time I heard crevice pronounced differently, lol, love it. Not steal the tools but borrow them, lol, such a polite threat.
1998 ford ka. my wheel almost fell off. lol... was after i did some work with replacing the springs and brake wires. you know.. this thing with working on old rust corpses. one project leads to 2 more - endless loop and really appreciate this vid showing the stuff i needed to know about wheel bearings
@@mikemonaco3547 Yup all of the tools and concepts apply to your vehicle. Your front bearings are press in sealed press in style. The rear bearing is a sealed style hybrid bearing. The rear bearing portion bolts in. The rear hub though, will need to be unpressed to save it, and pressed back into the new bearing. 😃🔧
Awesome video i really wish i could use this style press where i live, im from Atlantic Canada where everything is extremely seized you have to use a oxy acy torch on everything before it will budge. I have one of these presses it does work on the atv's around here because they see way less road salt. But my 20 ton press even struggles sometimes to break free bearings here even after heating the bearing/race red hot. Pressing in is easy but coming out its always a big bang with 20tons behind it lol.
this "way of doing it" works most of the time and is great for "driveway mechanics". Been a tech four decades, for the past three and half decades I have ALWAYS used a press (as an apprentice the shop I worked in had a setup similar to this tool). I have repaired SOOO many bearings that were just done using this tool, all because the bearing was NOT seated 100%. Then there is the stubborn wheel bearings. I have a 40 ton press and have seen some wheel bearings take all 40 tons to unseat... and yes it makes one hell of a BANG when they let go. This is not a criticism, just an FYI moment. Great job on the vid
Thanks for the tip! I have had no seating issues so far on all vehicle bearings with the tool including larger bearings like Toyota trucks. The clamping pressure of the tool is significant. The 3/4" bolt and torque of the fastener could be calculated, it would be pretty high. The feel of the bolt pressing in the bearing is very similar to a press. When the bearing stops- IT STOPS. Generally speaking interference parts like wheel bearings can be handled with a tool like this no problem. I was skeptical at first also. The press and this tool both press bearings together and are both useful. It is user preference. As far as bearings coming back for another repair, I only see that with mid grade and cheap bearings. High quality bearings have never been an issue for me 😃🔧
I've had a couple vehicles where bolts were seized into sleeves and removing the knuckle from the vehicle would incur extra expense that the customer wasn't ready for i.e. rear knuckle of an '08 Escape comes to mind. Several linkages that meant torch time and melting bushings. This type of on-vehicle press makes my life easier and saves the customer money. Agreed that there are some that require full shop press force and there's no avoiding the expense that's coming.
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
Glad it helped you! The concepts are somewhat easy to understand after it is demonstrated a few times. It was extremely difficult to show on camera in tight spaces😃🔧
By far the most comprehensive and detailed instructions on RUclips on installing this type of bearing. This is my reference go to video. I learnt heaps, thank you for doing this.
I purchased a fwd wheel bearing installer/removal tool just like yours along with a Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh Steel 20 ton press. I swear by that cup & disk set for all press in bearings! The biggest thing with all forcing screw type of tools is, Lubricate the forcing screw! Clean the inner race & all mating surfaces to clean shiny metal & use brake clean then grease or antiseize before bearing installation.
I agree. I only use the forcing screw method now too. Much better, faster, and if i can get the CV-axle removed without disturbing any alignment specific fasteners or connections, the bearing replacement process doesn't change the current alignment settings 😀
I have seen many RUclips videos on front wheel bearing replacement and yours is the best so far as it covers the finer details to avoid a bad installation.
Ah, the old bugeye captured wheel bearings. I remember doing these many years ago. I ended up taking the spindle off and pressing the hub out with a socket, as I did not have a hub puller. Luckily I had access to a press. You should consider including the name of the car in the title so more people can find this great helpful video.
I would have cleaned the surrounding area (knuckle, etc) before pressing in these open type bearings. Some rust or sand is bound to end up in that bearing upon installation. Otherwise great video!
Thanks for the tips! If that were to happen you would notice that the bearing didn't seat all the way and the retaining clip would not fit in its groove 😃🔧🔧
@@aliciaalbright8365 Looks like you have hub bearings and don't have press in bearings. The Hub Shocker might be useful to you. ruclips.net/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/видео.html
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the response. The other versions have those bearings but the turbo has the oress bearings in the front. I thought the same at first until i looked unto it more
Great video. Thanks . Also I've had 2 inch wheel spacers on my F150 for 7 years without issue. Never cheap out when buying them and check the torque on them every time you have the wheel off. That's all.
Good tip! The car i fixed in the video is doing great with no issues on the bearing or spacers. So maybe I'm wrong here. I always default to "spacers are bad" from previous experiences. They do make the stance nice looking for sure 😀
@EasyFix. absolutely agree. They aren't ideal but I think if you buy good quality and pay attention by inspecting them on a regular basis and checking their torque you'll be okay. Loved your video tho. I replace my wheelbaring on my 2006 pontiac vibe using the guidance in your vid.. thanks again
instead of mashing the brand new seal from the inside, why not use a adapter the fits the outside of the seal and install. Alot easier and you are not going to mash the seal mating surface
I've done similar work on my cars before. I can definitely appreciate the presentation , details and tips shared on here. Good camera work too. Subbed.
I didn't see you do it but it's a good idea to clean the wheel studs before reinstalling the wheel spacers AND also apply red lock tite to the wheel studs so when you torque down tje wheel spacers you have more.confidence that they won't back off. Then install.your wheel as you would. I like a dab of anti sieze on the spacer studs to make removal easier. Great video by the way.
My friend, all the suggestions and methods that you mentioned serve people who have a workshop with complete equipment or even complete tools, not for someone who wants to repair his car himself to reduce costs on him in his home garage, but I would like to tell you that I have satisfied two information here. Inside and how to extract it with a screwdriver I hope that in the future you will take care of people who are not mechanics because it is simply more affordable and easier to buy a complete HP and replace it instead of all this negligence that requires professional tools. Thank you again
I've got an old car (01 focus se) with the rear wheel bearing pressed into the brake drum (surprised me too) so in the past I've had to replace the whole drum with plenty of brake like in it because of the bearing. I'm fairly certain this video still applies, and so, my future wheel bearing job thanks you for possibly saving a set of brake drums (particularly cause replacing the drum means I have to do both sides, even if the other side is 'good'.
Just ordered a bunch of crap off amazon, the finger gauge is out of of stock. Im working on a 2014 Mazda CX9. I appreciate you showing how to use these tools. I think i can get by with a slide hammer kit and the press kit.
Done bearing changes on last 2 vehicles this way, nice to avoid bench fee and delay waiting for a shop to use their press. I just factor new hub insert into my cost to avoid issue with removing outer race.
Thanks for the video. I liked your idea about keeping the strut bolts intact so we don’t need an alignment. Just finished a 2012 CRV front bearing by removing the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and was able to pop the drive axle out. Thanks!
Thanks. Your explanations are clear and direct without needless chatter. Everything you say that is not directly instructional either clarifies or cautions. Good job. My only future request is to eliminate the background music. Music, especially techno or insistent beat, distracts and irritates, rather than add. Just a thought. Otherwise perfect.
Excellent! Buy all the tools, makes life easy. Especially the 12lb slide hammer and kit to go with it. If you have a stubborn hub to depress it saves your elbow and makes short work of it. I don't even use attempt my 5lb in the kit anymore 😃🔧
I totally agree. Grappler is great. I don't have one. But i did go to a 12lb slide hammer for the same reason. Problem solved. The 5 lb versions work. 12lb work way better. Much much gooder on the elbows and shoulders 😀
I've got to try this on my '68 Eldorado with front discs. We just got new bearings 70 miles ago pressed in by our local machine shop but they've already failed. We're able to slide the wheel hubs back and forth a bit on both sides 😬. I've heard horror stories about pressing bearings in on these old cars but this looks safe and much more affordable than hiring the machine shop again.
Is that a press-in bearing assembly similar to the video? Or could you have a "single nut manually adjusted" bearing like a trailer axle type of bearing? Here is a trailer bearing video if you are not sure. ruclips.net/video/YJNz5F8fRtA/видео.html
@@EasyFixShaun just took the knuckle/hub assembly to the machine shop and separated the knuckle from the hub and rotor. Apparently the only pressed fit is onto the hub and it just slides into the knuckle with a little force of course. They're only held together by the four bolts between the steering knuckle and the bearing retainer, and that retainer is worn out and a little bent which is causing it to slide back and forth on the bearing.
Oh ok. Wow that was ahead of its time. The concepts should be the same so the tool should work. Maybe try a different brand bearing. Timken is usually fantastic 😀🔧
No problem! You will have minor differences in parts and sizes. Your wheel bearing should be the press in sealed type. All concepts and tools should work great 😀🔧
I love mine also. Easier than a traditional press. Plus if the alignment was good before if will be good after, as long as the cv-axle can be removed without disturbing any adjustable bolts used for alignment 😃🔧
I own an Australian early 06 model Impreza 2.0L R manual Non turbo has 4 wheel disc brakes and it's so bloody confusing when it comes to researching repairs on these, as there's a few variations on models even in the same year. Mine has the same one piece hub like here and others have a removable bearing assembly. This TUT has been *easy* enough to follow fortunately. I find myself watching over and over tho just to be clear :)
There was a lot of change over around the 03-06 model years on brake and bearing parts. I have been burned on parts like you also. Happens sometimes in the parts catalogs and it sucks. If you have the press in bearings this should be the video you need. Its a weird concept, once you do them a few times it is easy to understand. That is why there are not a lot of great videos on it. I tried hard to include as much information as I could so you could grasp concepts in the video. I also tried to give optional ideas of how some of the process could be done so that you could get a better idea. It may have made the video to complex. But, I wanted to show concepts of how press in bearings work and there is no absolute way to do them so that you can work through whatever small design differences you may have on your particular make year and model. Press in bearings are all basically the same. 😃🔧🔧 I have a second video on press in bearings (press in 1.0) also that could be helpful.
Currently doing the left rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Prior owner (or owner's mechanic) didn't tighten the axle nut anywhere near the requisite torque spec and as a result it's been slowly working its way out as I've been driving it. Hub fought me a bit but it popped out after a bit of pressure from the puller and taps with a hammer on the rim. Bearing basically fell out once the hub was out, only things that are still in there are the inner and outer races. Going to see if the parts store has the bearing kit back in stock yet and hope it has a disc the right size to pull my races out.
*_New sway bar link video_* ruclips.net/video/0S8JBe_jn6g/видео.html
Um they are not all the same apparently you haven't done a 01 4runner rear wheel bearings well axle bearings
Hi I'm kagiso from south Africa I think I need your help
@EasyFixShaun 2010 Ford Edge AWD doing the front wheel bearings.
Already did rears which are bolt on hubs, front are not .
Good work 👍
Wow very informative and detailed video. Thanks!!
one of the best videos of how to do a bearing job correctly with a sense of professional way of doing a job. well done
Well thank you very much!! I really appreciate that 😃😃
Just finished a similar job on my Forester - I used the press kit you have & with the right size disc found it very good at pulling the seals into place without needing to hammer them home.
Excellent use case 😃
This is a really good video because you don't have to talk about the whole history of mankind or anything you get right to the point stay on point
Thanks, glad you like it 😃🔧
Good video and advice apart from one thing. With grease, the more the merrier is incorrect. I was informed years ago by a bearing manufacturer that over greasing was the most common reason for premature failure as it can lead to localised overheating.
Other than that, good, to the point video.
@@idonotwantahandle2 I've also heard this from professional mechanics. The extra grease has nowhere to go and thus create unnecessary pressure and churning which could damage the seals. At some point the grease could prevent smooth rolling. I could not believe it at first but I checked out some old bearings and yes some of them are full of grease but the bearing is stuck or hardly rolls.
Thought it may be worth noting that my 30 year old DD still has all its original wheel bearings. 250k on original bearings suggests I am not doing something wrong.
@@idonotwantahandle2 "Churning" does not cause bearing failure. Look up bearing failure causes, it isn't on the list. If grease needs to get out, it finds a way past the seals quite easily 😃
Holy moly! You have made a difficult-looking task look MUCH easier to perform. The fact you convinced me to get the proper tools for the future, made me a subscriber! Thank you so much!
hahaha 😃 Thank you. Glad to help out 😃🔧
I liked the video. I just installed rear wheel bearings on my 84 Porsche, and When I checked the play I was horrified. I almost took them off thinking i damaged them installing them. THEN I remembered the hub nut gets tightened to 300 NM and after that it was rock solid no play!
I am so glad you liked it! Yes the nut holds it all together on some setups. It is a backup mechanism for most all setups 😃🔧
The details makes the difference between total failure or total success
Thank you so very much for doing and going the extra mile instead half as like 95% of youtubers these days
No problem. Im glad to help 😀🔧🔧
Thanks!
No prob! Glad to help😀🔧
Whoa! I just saw this. I am not sure when you did this but thank you so much!!😊☺️ Helps a lot!
I don't even need bearings but the video is so well made I stuck to the end.
No way! Well now you have some random bearing knowledge. Thank you. I am glad you liked it 😃🔧
This video came up automatically... I've done this several times, so I watched to see how you liked the tool. I like mine a lot as well. I have noticed that mine is a lot happier when I put a little wheel bearing grease on the threads of the tool. Great video!
Right on. I do that too from time to time. I should do it each time just to make everything nice and easy. I am glad you like your tool also. Its been a life saver for me 😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun its almost like RUclips knows I am about to need it again. My Wife's Escape is starting to get that hum noise. Thanks again!
Oh man. I swear youtube knows everything haha! Fronts are press-in i think. Rears bolt-in i believe 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun All four are press in 😒I own two Escapes, my Parents own two, and my Brother had one for a while. I've done seven or eight on Escapes now, and only one was not the front drivers side. That CV axle is on more of an extreme angle on that side, and I assume that's why it's more prone to going bad.
Wow! Thats awsome. You are the escape master 😀. Edge is the one i was thinking about. My bad. Keep them escapes running 😀🔧
I’m only halfway through this video and my mind is already made up.
It’s absolutely Great.
Your explanations and the filming are just brilliant.
You explain the pros and cons.
Just Amazing.
You’ve got my subscription.
Thank you for posting.
Regards, Joe.
Wow, thank you! I hope your project goes well for you 😃🔧
My minds made up as well, i dont feel like doing this but i hit that u turn a little too hard today 😂
I’m a master mechanic and this was a great step by step instructional video
Thanks a lot my brother! 😀🔧
I am a Master Mechanic's Master's Master and I must concur.
Why is a master mechanic watching this video? Haven't you done like a million bearings?
@@kylerandolph79 sometimes I like to watch the way someone else does it
Excellent editing and content. Straight to the point. I wish all "How To" videos were like this.
Thank you I really appreciate that. More to come 😃😃
I’m doing this on a 2002 Subaru Legacy, thank you so much for making this tutorial, this is the best one I’ve seen on RUclips
Thank you very much! Really appreciate all the love 😃😃
This is how a video should be done, great work! Ive never done this before but now I have confidence to do it by watching your video. You were very thorough in your explanation, thanks.
Glad I could help! Thank you so much for the kind comment ✅🔧
Yes!!!! he makes me feel like I can do it tool
Thank you for this video I used it to learn how to use these tools and save me over 600 dollars on one job! The work was brutal but everything turned out so ty ty ty good sir!
Great to hear! I am glad you got it all sorted out. Hopefully you are now equipped if another fails in the future 😃😃
With the bearing alone was $26.00, I got, bearing-hub assembly ready to bolt on for $18.00 on Ebay. Knocked old hub off and bolted new on hardest part was taking the tire off.
Nice Job on the replacement process 😃
That's what I like about my 09 fxt...all bolt on easy peasy hubs. My 94 impreza on the other hand, tiny press type bearings. 😂 Luckily I've had one of those press sets for probably 15 years. Definitely the best way for driveway bearing replacement. 👏
Yes. Best way for shops also 😃
Really well done, I paused and replayed this one a few times. We don't see this kind of detail with sealed bearings, it was eye opening to see how these old style open bearings come apart. Good point about no grease on the outside of the races during installation. Although it might be tempting to use antiseize, you don't want that getting into the bearing surfaces. I understand your point, they are better left dry, they are supposed to seize a little on each side. I've heard remarks about taking care around speed sensors, when would you try to take the sensor out before doing the bearing?
Thanks! I really appreciate that. The speed sensor should always be removed before repair. The particular Subaru I was working on had a very short sensor that didn’t protrude enough to need removal. But if the sensor is there it’s always best to remove if you can to avoid damage while working in and around that hub area. I’m glad you like the detail of the video! A lot of effort went into making that video. It’s a hard video to capture and also a difficult job compared to a bolt in bearing. Totally doable. But with both videoing and working it was a lot or organization. Thanks for checking that one out! 😀
This is so much more honest and complete than other videos
The knuckle looks like it has rust holes in it!
I did inspect it. I live in the rust belt so we are used to everything being rusted. It's solid cast still and pretty strong. Superficial rust thankfully 😃
Thank you! Glad you liked it 😃😃
I bought the entire knuckle assembly bearing included…. Yes it was more $$ but fast change out with out buying a bearing press. This was on a Honda civic
Nice job!! Don't forget the alignment 😀
I just purchased a full size traditional press and it worked perfectly on my 2011 Toyota Venza AWD front passenger bearing replacement. Thanks for your video
Very nice! Old school 😀😀
Thank you for this video. Have to do my front and rear soon. Was going to just buy a whole hub bearing kit, but this will be much more cost effective in the long run. Mk4 VW Golf.
No problem!! The concepts will work great on front and rear on your VW. The front especially. The rear bearing might be easier to buy the hub kit for you (and me). It's a unique design compared to anything else out there. I would also recommend buying the best bearings available so you don't have to do it twice. Let me know how your project goes! 😃🔧🔧
I will definitely let you know how this turns out. Thanks again and I hope you are having an awesome start to your new year.
Excellent! Sounds great. Happy new year!!😀🔧
I just completed a wheel bearing install yesterday. Man, I wish I had seen this video first!
next time 😃😃
Oh my god. Just perfect instructions. You’re a hero.
Thanks a lot haha! Glad to help 😀🔧🔧
Here!! Here!! 10/10 on pair with the info. Hell yeah!!!
Thank you! I love making these videos 😃🔧
I have a 30 gallon compressor which can put out only 12 CFM. I have Aircat guns mini a regular size. They will remove any fastener quickly, but my compressor can't supply enough sustained air. You need a compressor that puts out 25CFM inorder to do any sustained output.
Nice! Yup sounds about right 😀🔧
I just wanted to say thank you for putting this video together. I never would’ve had the confidence to do this otherwise.
You're welcome! Glad it helped! 😃
I went to amazon because of you. been using a press for years.
Awsome! I have never looked back with mine. Love it 😀🔧
I always put the bearing in the freezer makes things easier
That is a great tip 🎯😃
Hello, first time watching your RUclips from Australia 🇦🇺 . Will be watching more love how you show from start to finish with no editing. Thank you
Thanks so much! 😊 RUclips makes the world smaller 😀😀
Awesome video. Very thorough and to the point. Others should take notes on how you stepped through the whole video and put confidence in others to follow your steps and attain success. A1 100% Absolutely well done through and through!
I appreciate that! Have a great week 😃😃
SOLID! I’m doing a rear wheel bearing on an ls400 and there’s no videos on it however this press in style is the same so thank you for the informative tutorial! I appreciate this a million 😎🤙
Thanks! Good luck with your project 😃😃🔧
@@EasyFixShaun it’s been a hassle, but mainly because I don’t have the inner & outer seal and I need to also order the deflector on the inside I destroyed mine, in the process of removing the old bearing casing
@@stairwaytotevin Sorry your project isn't going great. The sealed bearing styles are much easier generally. I like those better. The extra seal steps mess me up all the time too. I forget them and have to disassemble again to get them installed. Been there for sure! Stick with it. Hang in there. Think your way through and be as patient as you can be. "it's just nuts and bolts". 😃
Love myself a good long detailed video! Thanks!
I’m waiting on that Bennett’s motor sports next video too! 😃
thank you very much. i was looking for a video for my 03 forester. i just clicked on the first video that i searched under “ wheel bearing press “ and i was soo happy i clicked on this video even more happy that it was another subaru car . so it was the exact same steps !!
Great to hear! You are welcome. Good luck with your project 😃🔧
Probably one of the best repair videos I have seen. Right as I was going to ask myself the question, he answered it. Really, really nice video
Wow, thanks! I am really glad this helps people out like you 😃🔧
Overall yeah, but that pneumatic wrench is overkill. In the end You'll se bearing rotates too hard... If You'll crack few last times by hand shall be flawless...
Everything in the video can be done by hand. Power tools make some processes easier and faster. By hand is always the best. One can get a better "feel" for the repair 😀🔧
2:26 - Correct.👍👍
Second usually to very high mileage, spacers are a reason for bearing failure…changes wheel geometry, putting extra/abnormal stress on the bearing.
yup! significant strain is put on the bearing with even small spacer changes from stock. 😃
I was waiting for this video to do my wheel bearings!
I need some airplane repairs btw 😀
@@EasyFixShaun I personally think they went out of the way to make things harder for the average mechanic to get things done , they need to go back to the original wheel bearings from the 60s and 70s ! Great video of doing this job !
I agree! They are trying to drive traffic to the dealerships. They do it on purpose. It’s not cool at all. It shouldn’t be that way. 🧐
Thank you so much for this video! I just did this on both sides of my 2003 WRX and saw this was also a bugeye. Thankfully, this was how I did it (it was my first time pressing an unsealed bearing and I was nervous I should not have pressed on the inner bearing to install the hub but I didn't see any other way). All seems well and time will tell... 😂
No problem! Nice work on your project 😀😀
Very well presented and some top quality tips! I'm a novice mechanic and seeing someone do it differently is always good for opening the mind of other ways to do things. With these Subaru bearings I usually just pull the whole hub and slap it in the press, I can do both sides in 2hrs quite comfortably without rushing, I wonder how fast you smash it out this way? I feel like the press method is much simpler/easier assuming you have the tools on hand. We don't have to worry about rust where I live so that probably makes things much easier if you wanna remove multiple arms etc.
The tool works really fast for me. With no rust I could beat a traditional press time easily. Plus if the the cv axle can be removed with out removing any steering or suspension adjustment bolts, an alignment may not be needed. If the knuckle is removed an alignment is needed afterwards. I prefer the on car tool. I don't think I have used a traditional press for a wheel bearing replacement in at least a decade. The only exception that comes to mind would be like a Toyota Tundra front or rear wheel bearing at times. Especially the rear. There are always exceptions to the rule. I would say the on car press does 99% of press in bearings out there though. Super valuable tool to have and try. Make sure you get a kit with a fine thread bolt if you are going to use it a lot. Those last a decade or so vs corse thread 😃🔧
I was here notating the Amazon tools then saw that you have the links, amazing! First time I heard crevice pronounced differently, lol, love it. Not steal the tools but borrow them, lol, such a polite threat.
Hahaha. I'm glad it gave you a chuckle 😀😀
Excellent informative vid 😎
Favourite bit “the moment of truth” when you could hear the steering ball joints clunking 😂
👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😃
Which is why the true test to see if a front wheel bearing is damaged is to shake the wheel at the 12 o' clock and the 6 o' clock position.
1998 ford ka. my wheel almost fell off. lol...
was after i did some work with replacing the springs and brake wires.
you know.. this thing with working on old rust corpses.
one project leads to 2 more - endless loop
and really appreciate this vid showing the stuff i needed to know about wheel bearings
Oh wow. Im glad it didn't fall off! Yup rust is a machines worst enemy 😀🔧
Very impressive video! Great details.
Thanks a lot! I’m glad you like it 😃
Sweet video will it be the same on a 2007 Mercedes E350 4matic with the sports package please let me know. Thanks
@@mikemonaco3547 Yup all of the tools and concepts apply to your vehicle. Your front bearings are press in sealed press in style. The rear bearing is a sealed style hybrid bearing. The rear bearing portion bolts in. The rear hub though, will need to be unpressed to save it, and pressed back into the new bearing. 😃🔧
No doubt, high quality tools make repairs look good on anyone's hands.....!
Thats a great saying! 😀😀
Awesome video i really wish i could use this style press where i live, im from Atlantic Canada where everything is extremely seized you have to use a oxy acy torch on everything before it will budge. I have one of these presses it does work on the atv's around here because they see way less road salt. But my 20 ton press even struggles sometimes to break free bearings here even after heating the bearing/race red hot. Pressing in is easy but coming out its always a big bang with 20tons behind it lol.
Oh wow that sounds very similar to Michigan. We use salt on the roads and it Rusts everything so bad here too😀🔧
Um I use this set on cars in New York where new card rust out in 5 years if you don't wash your car everyday it snows and for 3 to 5 days after too
I am about to do a 2006 Honda CRV. No play, but you can hear bearing noise. I learned a lot from your video! Cheers
Glad it helped! Good luck with your project 😃
How did you manage to do this without overbearing background music obscuring your narration? Is that allowed on youtube? 🙂
this "way of doing it" works most of the time and is great for "driveway mechanics". Been a tech four decades, for the past three and half decades I have ALWAYS used a press (as an apprentice the shop I worked in had a setup similar to this tool). I have repaired SOOO many bearings that were just done using this tool, all because the bearing was NOT seated 100%. Then there is the stubborn wheel bearings. I have a 40 ton press and have seen some wheel bearings take all 40 tons to unseat... and yes it makes one hell of a BANG when they let go. This is not a criticism, just an FYI moment. Great job on the vid
Thanks for the tip! I have had no seating issues so far on all vehicle bearings with the tool including larger bearings like Toyota trucks. The clamping pressure of the tool is significant. The 3/4" bolt and torque of the fastener could be calculated, it would be pretty high. The feel of the bolt pressing in the bearing is very similar to a press. When the bearing stops- IT STOPS. Generally speaking interference parts like wheel bearings can be handled with a tool like this no problem. I was skeptical at first also. The press and this tool both press bearings together and are both useful. It is user preference. As far as bearings coming back for another repair, I only see that with mid grade and cheap bearings. High quality bearings have never been an issue for me 😃🔧
I've had a couple vehicles where bolts were seized into sleeves and removing the knuckle from the vehicle would incur extra expense that the customer wasn't ready for i.e. rear knuckle of an '08 Escape comes to mind. Several linkages that meant torch time and melting bushings. This type of on-vehicle press makes my life easier and saves the customer money. Agreed that there are some that require full shop press force and there's no avoiding the expense that's coming.
Great tip! Another reason the tool is so handy.
This is much better with a PRESS. Like the unsealed better just do your own packing of grease.
I have done it every way. The press is great too. And alignment is a must after removing the knuckle though so be sure to do that 😃
Hope you lubed up the threads, a thrust bearing would certainly help too.
yes the new tools bolts are so cheap they are bandaiding with thrust washers. They still break 🧐
I have been debating on trying this myself or paying a shop because I didn't have a press, but this makes me think I can do it on my own.
Great Question. If you are comfortable with repairs it is very doable. I haven't used this on car press in 10+ years except for some specialized rear Toyota truck bearings. Even those can be done without a press using some creativity. I love the on car press tool. If you can get the cv axle out, the tool will work. And if you can remove the axle with touching any alignment changing fasteners, no alignment changes will happen from getting the shaft out or back in 😃
@@EasyFixShaun I am comfortable with doing repairs, I have never done a press in bearing before. I am used to doing the bearing hub assembly which makes it a much easier process. I am certain I could get the cv axle out without messing with the alignment. I would be doing it on a 2004 Toyota Avalon on the passenger front.
Do some more research on RUclips on your particular model and plan your repair if you decide to move forward. Let me know how your project goes 😃
The best video ive seen that explains everything. This video is so good even someone who never done mechanical work can do it. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it helped you! The concepts are somewhat easy to understand after it is demonstrated a few times. It was extremely difficult to show on camera in tight spaces😃🔧
Wow, very detailed video. Watched it during my lunch time since I should be replacing my wheel bearings within the next week or two.
Great to hear! Let me know how your project goes 😃🔧
By far the most comprehensive and detailed instructions on RUclips on installing this type of bearing. This is my reference go to video. I learnt heaps, thank you for doing this.
Hey thanks a lot! No problem! Glad to help 😀🔧🔧
I purchased a fwd wheel bearing installer/removal tool just like yours along with a Harbor Freight/Pittsburgh Steel 20 ton press. I swear by that cup & disk set for all press in bearings! The biggest thing with all forcing screw type of tools is, Lubricate the forcing screw! Clean the inner race & all mating surfaces to clean shiny metal & use brake clean then grease or antiseize before bearing installation.
I agree. I only use the forcing screw method now too. Much better, faster, and if i can get the CV-axle removed without disturbing any alignment specific fasteners or connections, the bearing replacement process doesn't change the current alignment settings 😀
Good video Mate 👍🤠
Thanks man!😀
No problem 👍
That is what I call a perfect video.
Thank you 😊😊
I have seen many RUclips videos on front wheel bearing replacement and yours is the best so far as it covers the finer details to avoid a bad installation.
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate that. I am so glad it helped you out 😃🔧
Watch Eric O. of South Main Auto.
Eric is a great mechanic also 😀🔧
This video is easy to see what's going on probably the best one on all of RUclips
Thanks a lot! I really tried to show what makes it work 😀🔧🔧
Excellent video as always! Keep em coming!
Thanks man! Really appreciate that. Can’t wait to see your next one also!
Nice video! I’ll be trying this next time I have to do a bearing, ordering the tool now so I’m ready : )
Nice! Thanks a lot. Really appreciate that! Good luck on your project. 🔧😃😃
Ah, the old bugeye captured wheel bearings. I remember doing these many years ago. I ended up taking the spindle off and pressing the hub out with a socket, as I did not have a hub puller. Luckily I had access to a press. You should consider including the name of the car in the title so more people can find this great helpful video.
There is surprisingly a lot of these around still 😃🔧
I would have cleaned the surrounding area (knuckle, etc) before pressing in these open type bearings. Some rust or sand is bound to end up in that bearing upon installation. Otherwise great video!
Thanks for the tips! If that were to happen you would notice that the bearing didn't seat all the way and the retaining clip would not fit in its groove 😃🔧🔧
Would this work on a 2015 kia optima sxl turbo?
@@aliciaalbright8365 Looks like you have hub bearings and don't have press in bearings. The Hub Shocker might be useful to you.
ruclips.net/video/eKqYtMdlPYo/видео.html
@@EasyFixShaun thanks for the response. The other versions have those bearings but the turbo has the oress bearings in the front. I thought the same at first until i looked unto it more
Oh! My bad. I looked it up wrong. Then yes! It will work.
Thank you so much. Good tutorial. About to tackle all 4 wheel bearings on 2010 scion. Rented all the pullers and pushers from autozone.
For the record it's a 2010 scion TC.
Awesome. Good luck, let me know how it goes 😃
Congrats for your well made vid. Really informative on how to use tools. Nice and clean camera use. Perfect video edition. Thanks
Thank you! I really appreciate. A significant amount of time is needed to do it and it isn't always appreciated. Made my day 😀🔧🔧
Great video. Thanks .
Also I've had 2 inch wheel spacers on my F150 for 7 years without issue. Never cheap out when buying them and check the torque on them every time you have the wheel off. That's all.
Good tip! The car i fixed in the video is doing great with no issues on the bearing or spacers. So maybe I'm wrong here. I always default to "spacers are bad" from previous experiences. They do make the stance nice looking for sure 😀
@EasyFix. absolutely agree. They aren't ideal but I think if you buy good quality and pay attention by inspecting them on a regular basis and checking their torque you'll be okay. Loved your video tho. I replace my wheelbaring on my 2006 pontiac vibe using the guidance in your vid.. thanks again
No problem! Glad to help. Stay safe :)
Lmao the finger guage link was pretty funny 😂 imma subscribe for that
You are the first to comment hahahah. Thanks you. Glad to have you! 😀😀
Best video ever on installing and removing wheel bearings. You could be an instructor.
Wow, thanks! 😃🔧
instead of mashing the brand new seal from the inside, why not use a adapter the fits the outside of the seal and install. Alot easier and you are not going to mash the seal mating surface
You are correct. That would be a much better way to set the seal squarely. I love using a hammer for seals😃🔧
I've done similar work on my cars before. I can definitely appreciate the presentation , details and tips shared on here. Good camera work too. Subbed.
Thank you! Really appreciate that 😀
Great stuff!
Thanks a lot demo demo 😃
Best DIY car repair video ever... thanks especially for not wasting 45 seconds showing us the removal or the wheels... lol
Thank you!! Zoom Zooms on the wheel removals ✅😃😃
Tremendous tutorial ! Extraordinary detail !! Super helpful !!! I learned lots !!!! Thanks mate . 👊🏼🔥
Great to hear! Cheers mate 🍻😃
I didn't see you do it but it's a good idea to clean the wheel studs before reinstalling the wheel spacers AND also apply red lock tite to the wheel studs so when you torque down tje wheel spacers you have more.confidence that they won't back off. Then install.your wheel as you would. I like a dab of anti sieze on the spacer studs to make removal easier.
Great video by the way.
I know you mentioned not to use lubricants between the surfaces, but I always do. It makes pressing easier and prevents binding.
Correct. Just personal preference for me. Lots of people lubricate the bearing for install with success 😃🤝
My friend, all the suggestions and methods that you mentioned serve people who have a workshop with complete equipment or even complete tools, not for someone who wants to repair his car himself to reduce costs on him in his home garage, but I would like to tell you that I have satisfied two information here. Inside and how to extract it with a screwdriver
I hope that in the future you will take care of people who are not mechanics because it is simply more affordable and easier to buy a complete HP and replace it instead of all this negligence that requires professional tools. Thank you again
You are welcome 😃🔧
@MrGoldman9
Good concern u had expressed. I'm that category. No tools . What is HP abbreviation please?
Thanks a lot for the info. Gold knowledge. God bless 🔥
Anytime! I am glad you enjoyed it 😃🍻
Nicely done, I wauchted a bunch of video on this subject but yours was by far the best one with detail and explanation. Thanks so much!
Wow, thanks! Glad to help out 😃🔧
Best video I’ve seen on press in bearings. Very thorough. Thank you.
Im so glad you liked it! Glad to help out! 😀🔧
I've got an old car (01 focus se) with the rear wheel bearing pressed into the brake drum (surprised me too) so in the past I've had to replace the whole drum with plenty of brake like in it because of the bearing. I'm fairly certain this video still applies, and so, my future wheel bearing job thanks you for possibly saving a set of brake drums (particularly cause replacing the drum means I have to do both sides, even if the other side is 'good'.
Yup tools should work if you wanted to press out of a knuckle or drum. Same exact basic concepts 😀
One of the better videos ive seen lately
Thanks a lot! Glad it helped 😀🔧
Just ordered a bunch of crap off amazon, the finger gauge is out of of stock.
Im working on a 2014 Mazda CX9. I appreciate you showing how to use these tools. I think i can get by with a slide hammer kit and the press kit.
😂 the finger gauge should be available from other sellers on amazon if needed. With the slide hammer and press kit you should in pretty solid shape 😀
Done bearing changes on last 2 vehicles this way, nice to avoid bench fee and delay waiting for a shop to use their press. I just factor new hub insert into my cost to avoid issue with removing outer race.
Great tips for doing it yourself 😃
Thanks for the video. I liked your idea about keeping the strut bolts intact so we don’t need an alignment. Just finished a 2012 CRV front bearing by removing the 3 bolts holding the ball joint and was able to pop the drive axle out. Thanks!
You are welcome glad to help! Nicely done 😃🔧
Thanks. Your explanations are clear and direct without needless chatter. Everything you say that is not directly instructional either clarifies or cautions. Good job. My only future request is to eliminate the background music. Music, especially techno or insistent beat, distracts and irritates, rather than add. Just a thought. Otherwise perfect.
Glad it was helpful! Thank for the pointers. Will do! Really appreciate that 😀😀
Thank you for the excellent instructions. I feel confident that my son and I can start and complete this job. ✌️
Excellent! Buy all the tools, makes life easy. Especially the 12lb slide hammer and kit to go with it. If you have a stubborn hub to depress it saves your elbow and makes short work of it. I don't even use attempt my 5lb in the kit anymore 😃🔧
Hey man! 1999 3000gt sohc fwd. Thank you man for this video!
No problem! Glad to help 😃🔧
Bravo! That was one of the best videos I've ever seen.
Wow, thanks!
Slide hammer does work good,it is hard on your shoulders after several years. I now use the grappler to pull out the hubs
I totally agree. Grappler is great. I don't have one. But i did go to a 12lb slide hammer for the same reason. Problem solved. The 5 lb versions work. 12lb work way better. Much much gooder on the elbows and shoulders 😀
Good video got my toyota wheel bearing and hub pressed on thanks ❤
You got it! 🤝😃
I've got to try this on my '68 Eldorado with front discs. We just got new bearings 70 miles ago pressed in by our local machine shop but they've already failed. We're able to slide the wheel hubs back and forth a bit on both sides 😬. I've heard horror stories about pressing bearings in on these old cars but this looks safe and much more affordable than hiring the machine shop again.
Is that a press-in bearing assembly similar to the video? Or could you have a "single nut manually adjusted" bearing like a trailer axle type of bearing? Here is a trailer bearing video if you are not sure. ruclips.net/video/YJNz5F8fRtA/видео.html
@@EasyFixShaun it's a sealed press in bearing.
@@EasyFixShaun just took the knuckle/hub assembly to the machine shop and separated the knuckle from the hub and rotor. Apparently the only pressed fit is onto the hub and it just slides into the knuckle with a little force of course. They're only held together by the four bolts between the steering knuckle and the bearing retainer, and that retainer is worn out and a little bent which is causing it to slide back and forth on the bearing.
Oh ok. Wow that was ahead of its time. The concepts should be the same so the tool should work. Maybe try a different brand bearing. Timken is usually fantastic 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun the bearing's fine so we don't need to replace it but the only brand that produces the bearing I need is WJB.
Thanks for the detailed instructions. You nailed this bro
Thank you! I am so glad it was useful 😃
Thanks for the video! Need to do this job in 2001 Toyota Highlander.
No problem! You will have minor differences in parts and sizes. Your wheel bearing should be the press in sealed type. All concepts and tools should work great 😀🔧
Great video im installing an sealed bearing on my can am maverick x3 sxs and have a similar kit and this helps a lot
Oh no way! Awsome should be all the same concepts 😀🔧
I love this tool set. Done many bearing with it. Best option if you dont own a H press...
I love mine also. Easier than a traditional press. Plus if the alignment was good before if will be good after, as long as the cv-axle can be removed without disturbing any adjustable bolts used for alignment 😃🔧
thanks for this video was vary helpful with my subaru repair i also did the balljoints while doing this
Nice work! Glad to help 😀😀
I own an Australian early 06 model Impreza 2.0L R manual Non turbo has 4 wheel disc brakes and it's so bloody confusing when it comes to researching repairs on these, as there's a few variations on models even in the same year. Mine has the same one piece hub like here and others have a removable bearing assembly. This TUT has been *easy* enough to follow fortunately.
I find myself watching over and over tho just to be clear :)
There was a lot of change over around the 03-06 model years on brake and bearing parts. I have been burned on parts like you also. Happens sometimes in the parts catalogs and it sucks. If you have the press in bearings this should be the video you need. Its a weird concept, once you do them a few times it is easy to understand. That is why there are not a lot of great videos on it. I tried hard to include as much information as I could so you could grasp concepts in the video. I also tried to give optional ideas of how some of the process could be done so that you could get a better idea. It may have made the video to complex. But, I wanted to show concepts of how press in bearings work and there is no absolute way to do them so that you can work through whatever small design differences you may have on your particular make year and model. Press in bearings are all basically the same. 😃🔧🔧 I have a second video on press in bearings (press in 1.0) also that could be helpful.
Actual amazing video mate, tips along the way, awesome camera work and best use of language!
Thanks a ton! I am really glad it helped you out 😃🔧
Super duper thorough with your explaining of each process. 😎👍
Thanks! I glad I was able to help it make sense. Its is very weird at first, but after a few tries it starts to make sense 😃
You aren’t only a mechanic but also an engineer. The way you explain mate is really amazing and easy to do it by own.
Thank you! You are very kind 😃😃
Currently doing the left rear wheel bearing on a 2001 Jaguar XJR. Prior owner (or owner's mechanic) didn't tighten the axle nut anywhere near the requisite torque spec and as a result it's been slowly working its way out as I've been driving it.
Hub fought me a bit but it popped out after a bit of pressure from the puller and taps with a hammer on the rim. Bearing basically fell out once the hub was out, only things that are still in there are the inner and outer races. Going to see if the parts store has the bearing kit back in stock yet and hope it has a disc the right size to pull my races out.
Excellent video! Very easy to follow 😊
Thanks, glad you liked it!! 😃