Spent hours trying to find a front wheel bearing hub assembly but they don’t sell them anymore for a Kia sportage 2007 in the uk, however they do the bearing & the hub cheap, I didn’t think I could do it as I haven’t a press, now I see I can get a press kit kit to do the job, thank you !
I think what you were looking for was the Steering Knuckle with the hub and bearing already installed. That is extremely rare to find new and usually only going to be found in a junkyard.
Thanks Richard. Like true craftsmen, you make this look easy. I did both front bearings on my wife's '06 Toyota Solara a few years back. Even though I had both the bearing press kit and an air-impact, it still a beast of a job. A fine gentleman at "Hardly Moving Productions" has a video about using portable hydraulic press, which cuts the pressing time down dramatically. I might consider that way next time. Kind regards, Terry
I have a 25-ton hydraulic press I purchased recently. I will give that a try next time I do one of these jobs. I will still use the adaptors in the kit, I will simply be substituting the jack screw for the press. If and when I will post another video. Thanks for watching
Thank you Richard, I am about to do this myself for the first time using this exact method and tools so I am very grateful to see such a straightforward explanation, especially having the mention of not using an powered impact driver, I was uncertain about that exact point so the explanation on that was extremely helpful to me. Now I just need to wait for the weather to improve here on Islay so I can get the Knuckle off. Thanks again. Iain
Like Richard points out, we dont all have machine shops nearby to do this. I like how Richard shows us how to do this job off the car in your shop. Its a piece of cake to remove that knuckle and you wont be bending down fighting with it while its on the car.
Thank you for this highly detailed video. You explained so much detail, the how and the why was spot on. All the commentary is relevant and helpful, no added nonsense. Cheers!
Sorry I took so long to reply. Thanks for the very kind words. I am glad you noticed the no-nonsense approach to my videos. I hate these guys who add music, try to be cute or funny and mug for the camera. People who watch these type videos are looking for information, not entertainment. By all means don't be a stranger.
Most things since the pandemic have doubled in price. This kit however has not, I originally purchased mine 4 years ago for a little over $100. Last time I looked the kit was about $60 on eBay.
Thanks, I have had many complaints from viewers who have stripped the jackscrew on this kit. In pretty much every instance they have admitted to using a power tool. These kits are designed for occasional use by DIY driveway mechanics and are priced accordingly. They are not designed for daily use by a professional repair shop. Those kits cost many hundreds of dollars and on those you can indeed have at it with an impact tool. LOL, if it makes you feel any better, I destroyed a bearing the first time I used the kit as well. Thanks for the comment and watching my channel.
i love a good simple and to the point diy video. i'll be looking in from time to time to see what else you have going on and again thank you for the video.
Ive seen the hub pressed out before using the same type of kit. This is an easy way but pressing the hub out allows for the clip removal both sides and a clean bearing press.
I do not understand your point/ The kit is not capable of pressing the hub out. You need a shop press for that. I don't know what kind of car you are referring to but the one in the video has only one clip to remove???
Hi again, im thinking i like your method better than doing this job with the knuckle still on the car. Im also seeing a bearing tool kit that uses a horseshoe type set up that works like magic. Have you seen it? I would have to watch it again but i think that horseshoe set up will pull that hub out in a jiffy.
I have a 5 1/2 heavy vise mounted on my work table and i have blocks of wood and a few other clamps. Im sure i could make this work they way Richard is doing it. Last week i had a local shop do the bearing for me but those guys wont be around forever. A bad wheel bearing will leave you in bad shape. I think im gonna spend the 300.00 and buy that new bearing install kit with the new hub remover tool added. It will last for ever and lets face it, front wheel drive cars always need a wheel bearing sooner or later.
Honda FIT 2013 Update, New wheel bearing (Timken) ( i used a brand new hub with studs already installled) (21.00). new lower control arm by Mevotech, (includes bushings and ball joint) new outer tie rod end, new CV axle by GSP. New brake caliper. All parts from Rock Auto. The CV axle was 1 inch shorter than the OEB but fit perfect. No alignment needed. This job is complete.
Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease, the official automotive grease of NASCAR, is an advanced full synthetic grease formulated with a proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks and a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart excellent extreme-pressure properties and resistance to water wash, rust and corrosion. The proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives reliable lubrication over wide temperature ranges -50 C (-58 F) to 246 C (475 F). Outstanding structural stability coupled with high performance synthetic base stocks make Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease an outstanding all-purpose automotive grease.
Thanks for the kind words, I was responsible for training a lot of the young people in my shop before I retired. I am well familiar with giving instructions. It is funny as the young people in my shop dearly loved to poke fun at me (the old man) but when they wanted to know how to do something I was the one they came to see.
I have been sliding the race off with an air hammer since the 1970s. I understand they have a special tool for that now, but I am an old dog. I have never considered using a torch, but I am going to try to find one of those videos out of curiosity.
I am sure there are kits available that are heavy duty. However, the kit used in the video is not. The kit in the video only goes for about $60 on Ebay. I have had numerous complaints from people who have stripped the jackscrew while using a power tool, In the video I cranked it by hand as you may have noticed.
Thanks for the suggestion. So far mine has held up ok. Being that I am now retired it is only used occasionally these days. I always make sure it is well lubricated and I only crank it by hand with an ordinary ratchet.
Are you sure you pressed the new hub in far enough? @7:58 the old hub is close to the edge of the race. @29:08 the hub is a long way away from the previous one.
ive just bought this tool and watched a few videos.one inparticular the guy used a dewalt impat wrench and stripped the bolt.do you advise using only a wrench? Great video by the way.
Yes, I think I mentioned that in the video. keep the jack screw lubricated and only turn it with a hand tools such as a ratchet or wrench. I have had a number of complaints about the jack screw getting stripped and in each case, they have admitted using a power tool. I have used this tool numerous times with hand tools only and have never stripped the jackscrew. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching.
How would using an impact put more stress on the bolt than using your hand? It still demands the same force to push it in/out? Sounds like bs to me. There are plenty of videos showing an impact being used. It saves hours of time and stress on your body.
I have done worse things. I think you need to pull it all apart and start over. You will most likely have to buy another bearing. You can't take a chance of the hub popping off with the wheel sometime down the road.
Also, i had to destroy the speed sensor to get it out and also had to drill that speed sensor hole out a little as it has plastic and rust really bad. I put the drill bit just barely in the chuck and used a sight angle. Got that hole cleaned out and put in a new speed sensor. This job is now complete. 2013 Honda Fit with 141k.
The speed sensor on the Honda is made of hard plastic and the hole it fits in gets filled with rust. Even when you break the sensor (after removing the 10 mm bolt) you will still have hard black plastic left in that hole. It must be drilled out. Even after you drill the remains of the plastic sensor out you will still need to open up that hole a little because that plastic tends to be fused to the walls of the hole. Again, you gotta get all that old plastic and rust out of that hole. Select the proper size drill bit.@@richardspaulding5035
@@mg8718 Sorry I did not explain that well. The part I torched was made of metal in the car I was referring to. The negative comments were about changing the properties of the steering knuckle by heating it.
There is a Mexican guy a few doors down. He is a mechanic, but old school. He always takes the knuckle off. But, he knows his s#$t. I need to do my fronts on a 2013 CRV. I will get the kit from autozone and give it a try. If I am unsuccessful I will let my Mexican friend do it. I have done many hub assemblies. Just bolt them on.
Honda is a nice vehicle; they look good, ride nice, and are very quiet. But do they ever suck to work on! I have an Accord in the shop as I am writing this reply. My nephew had it towed in with a broken drive axle earlier this week. He gave up on it after the first day and has not been back. Now I have got to finish it unless I want it as a permanent onement in my shop.
That white grease is no good. I would hose it out and fill it with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. Most of these bearings are sealed. And on some the seal has a magnet encoder on it and you dont want to remove that.
Good luck, i just want to mention I did the job on the bench, it is not necessary to remove the steering knuckle from the car. The bearing can be installed with the knuckle still in the vehicle.
It was nothing special as I recall, whatever I had handy. I will say this: If you ever want to lubricate something rubber make sure the lubricant is silicone based. If you use a petroleum-based lubricant it will eventually start to eat away a petroleum-based seal or rubber part. I say rubber but almost nothing is actually made of rubber anymore. It has been mostly petroleum-based since after WW2. When tubeless tires became popular in the 1950s mechanics were using axle grease to help seal a stubborn bead. They discovered the grease would eat into the bead over time thus ruining the tire. I apologize for the history lesson LOL.
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply as i spent some time in the hospital this past week. Thanks for watching my channel and I hope the video was helpful.
Yes, the kit can be used in the vehicle, I believe I mentioned this in the video. I had the knuckle out only for visual clarity. Furthermore, if one does not have access to a bench vice, using the kit while the knuckle is still in the vehicle is the only way to go.
Yes i know guys and many shops will only do the wheel bearing while with the knuckle on the car. Mysleft, i prefer to do the wheel bearing on the work bench.
Hi, do you think the kit will work trying to extract and replace the bearing in a motorhome , Fiat Ducato 244, 18Q, 2.8 jtd ,year 2005. Will it have enough strength? The external diameter bearing is 90 mm. The inside diameter is 55mm. It has 60 mm long.
@@Vitimk12 Yes it has the correct size adaptors, my concern is will the jackscrew hold up. A number of my viewers have complained they had stripped the jackscrew. If you want to try using it keep the jackscrew well lubricated and do not use a power tool to turn it. Use a long-handled ratchet like I did in the video. You don't have a lot to lose as you can buy the kit for about $70 and if it works you will save hundreds. keep in touch
LOL, 50 miles to the southeast between Boston and Cape Cod. One side of the family is from Boston the other side is from Cape Cod, I picked up some of both accents.
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. The socket was 1-1/4 inch, and the wrench was 1-1/8 inch. I used a long handled 1/2-inch drive ratchet. Do not use a power tool to turn it and keep the jack screw lubricated.
LOL, very much so. I am about 50 miles southeast of Boston near Cape Cod. I picked up the accent from a little of both places. Right now, I have a rust belt Honda in the shop, it has been a nightmare so far. Enjoyed the conversation, by all means don't be a stranger.
They are available on eBay for less than $60. Just type in wheel bearing press kit in the search window and dozens will pop up, most with free shipping.
You can re-use the hub. You seem to to a good job with saving the hub. I only got a new hub because all my studs were sheered off and the new hub was only 21.00 bucks. You might have to do this job without a new hub! Good job Richard. Your video is very helpful. Wheel bearings will leave you stranded!@@richardspaulding5035
There are bushing press tools available with a similar price point on amazon. I tested the one i just bought by pressing out my control arm bushings from my jetta, was easy. No power tools (threads won't handle it) and lubricate the threads.
There are some vehicles that the bearing and hub are preassembled and just bolt on. One such vehicle I worked on recently was a 2016 Nissan Rouge. That bearing was a bolt on, very easy. The point I was trying to make in the video (evidently not well enough) is that on a press in type bearing the inner race gets stuck on the old hub. If one does not have the means to remove it, then just replace the hub. In the video you saw me drive the old race off the hub with an air hammer. In any event, even if you decide to get a new hub you still need the kit to press the bearing and hub back in. Unless of course your car has a bolt on hub as mentioned above. In that instance you do not need the kit at all. Thanks for the comment as it gave me a chance to clear that up.
You are correct. Thanks for pointing that out for the viewers. It is something I should have mentioned in the video. The reason I removed the knuckle is because the video was to be only about using the kit. Demonstrating its use on the bench was for visual clarity. However, if there is no access to a bench or vise then using it on the vehicle is the best option.
The kit is not for everyday use as in a repair shop, I have had my kit for several years using it only occasionally. I have had over one million views and thousands of comments from the 3 videos I have produced on that kit. The main reason the jack screw fails is because they do not lubricate it and use power tools to crank it. If used only occasionally keeping the screw lubricated turning it only by hand with a ratchet it will last many years as has mine.
@@richardspaulding5035 the thing is I had it 2 times I use it and the threats went bad I had to go fix one coast me more then then the hole tool kit nothing wrong with the rest of it only the bolt with the nut is the problem the rest is good
@@spiridondimaris465 Give me a break! You know what am talking about. A device that sells for under $100 dollars is absolutely not designed for a professional auto shop. It is made for the DYI guy for USE AT HOME where it might be used 2 or 3 times a year if that. Please be honest, when you stripped that jack screw you were using an air impact gun, am I correct?
@@richardspaulding5035 if course some times you need Jack hummer to get it out in less y you have plenty time in your hands and feel like playing all day I want to get it done soon is possible so I can't do the next 👍
😂ratchet my Audi 80 quattro bearing laughed at exactly same kit using a 30" breaker bar with extention the threads died before the bearing came out !!! Lubricated or not cheap Chinese Steel !!!
No question the kit is not for everyday use such as a repair shop. However, I have used mine on numerous occasions without difficulty. I would love to have been there to see what and how. If you had to force it with a breaker bar something was not quite right. As you saw in the video, I used an ordinary flex head ratchet. I have never used nothing but a ratchet with the kit.
My threads rounded out and failed, stripped. I used my torque power wrench too. I use all the other stuff with a press I bought, 12 ton harbour freight.
@@burtflak9409 I don't know what you guys are doing. I have used mine on numerous occasions. Never with any sort of power or toque wrench, only with an ordinary hand ratchet. Never had a problem with the jack screw, still looks as good as the day I purchased it.
Friend, it is too bad you did not watch the video as I addressed the issue of using the kit on the car in the opening. Furthermore, I absolutely did not have the cup on the wrong end. If you reverse the way I demonstrated the kit the lip inside the knuckle would prevent the bearings removal. I have had more than 1 million views on the use of this kit. Not a single viewer other than yourself has suggested I did anything wrong.
Thank you, these videos on how to use this kit have been by far my most popular and largely responsible for getting my channel monetized. If I sound like a teacher, it is because I was tasked with training many of the young people in my shop. Being the old man, the young guys loved to poke fun at me, but when they wanted to know how to do something I was the go-to guy LOL.
Spent hours trying to find a front wheel bearing hub assembly but they don’t sell them anymore for a Kia sportage 2007 in the uk, however they do the bearing & the hub cheap, I didn’t think I could do it as I haven’t a press, now I see I can get a press kit kit to do the job, thank you !
glad I was of help.
Same here, 2003 Toyota Camry. This was a huge help thank you
I think what you were looking for was the Steering Knuckle with the hub and bearing already installed. That is extremely rare to find new and usually only going to be found in a junkyard.
Thanks Richard. Like true craftsmen, you make this look easy. I did both front bearings on my wife's '06 Toyota Solara a few years back. Even though I had both the bearing press kit and an air-impact, it still a beast of a job. A fine gentleman at "Hardly Moving Productions" has a video about using portable hydraulic press, which cuts the pressing time down dramatically. I might consider that way next time. Kind regards, Terry
I have a 25-ton hydraulic press I purchased recently. I will give that a try next time I do one of these jobs. I will still use the adaptors in the kit, I will simply be substituting the jack screw for the press. If and when I will post another video. Thanks for watching
@@richardspaulding5035 Yes, exactly, would still need the adaptor kit. Hope you have a good week Richard.
@@terryzak1742 you as well
You know why is popular? Because you explain and show well what your doing..thanks pal😊
Thanks for the kind words, Andrew. Sorry I did not reply sooner as somehow my notifications got accidently turned off.
Thank you Richard, I am about to do this myself for the first time using this exact method and tools so I am very grateful to see such a straightforward explanation, especially having the mention of not using an powered impact driver, I was uncertain about that exact point so the explanation on that was extremely helpful to me. Now I just need to wait for the weather to improve here on Islay so I can get the Knuckle off.
Thanks again.
Iain
By all means let me know how the job turns out.
No ball joint press for that
VERY thorough, professional, and helpful tutorial. Well done, sir!
This video along with part two have been by far my most popular postings. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Like Richard points out, we dont all have machine shops nearby to do this. I like how Richard shows us how to do this job off the car in your shop. Its a piece of cake to remove that knuckle and you wont be bending down fighting with it while its on the car.
thanks again
Sure thing.@@richardspaulding5035
Absolut top gemachte Video .Ich habe viele Videos angeschaut, aber ihre Video Last alle essenziellen Sachen deutlich sehen und Erläuterung
Thank you for this highly detailed video. You explained so much detail, the how and the why was spot on. All the commentary is relevant and helpful, no added nonsense. Cheers!
Sorry I took so long to reply. Thanks for the very kind words. I am glad you noticed the no-nonsense approach to my videos. I hate these guys who add music, try to be cute or funny and mug for the camera. People who watch these type videos are looking for information, not entertainment. By all means don't be a stranger.
This man is a true blue friend. He is right all the way around. 😊
thanks LOL
Thanks, Rick. I didn’t even know a kit was available.
Most things since the pandemic have doubled in price. This kit however has not, I originally purchased mine 4 years ago for a little over $100. Last time I looked the kit was about $60 on eBay.
Best technique, I used a impact and destroyed a bearing! Ratchet is much better to slowly Install without damaging the new bearing!
Thanks, I have had many complaints from viewers who have stripped the jackscrew on this kit. In pretty much every instance they have admitted to using a power tool. These kits are designed for occasional use by DIY driveway mechanics and are priced accordingly. They are not designed for daily use by a professional repair shop. Those kits cost many hundreds of dollars and on those you can indeed have at it with an impact tool. LOL, if it makes you feel any better, I destroyed a bearing the first time I used the kit as well. Thanks for the comment and watching my channel.
i love a good simple and to the point diy video. i'll be looking in from time to time to see what else you have going on and again thank you for the video.
I hate these guys who play music, think they are funny, and keep sticking their faces in the camera. I like a no-nonsense approach.
Ive seen the hub pressed out before using the same type of kit. This is an easy way but pressing the hub out allows for the clip removal both sides and a clean bearing press.
I do not understand your point/ The kit is not capable of pressing the hub out. You need a shop press for that. I don't know what kind of car you are referring to but the one in the video has only one clip to remove???
Im 57 now and im doing this on my little Honda Fit. I replaced the lower control arm and tie rod as well as the bearing.
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. By all means if you need those parts, good time to do it.
You're not old. You're well developed.
In my stomach anyway
On some vehicles, the 2 strut bolts are used to adjust your front end alignment
Thanks
Long video but definitely worth the watch, informative for sure
LOL thanks, I have as many complaints that my videos are too long as I do that, I cut too much stuff out to make them shorter.
thumbs up! this is informational and also.... therapeutic.
thank you!
Certainly, helpful if your one who has issues falling asleep. LOL
Thank you so much. I will be buying a kit from harbor freight so I can sell wheel bearings at my job.
good luck
And thats how you save 700$ labor fee this day lol 😂
The videos I have produced on this kit have been by far the most popular on my channel. thanks, for watching.
Hi again, im thinking i like your method better than doing this job with the knuckle still on the car. Im also seeing a bearing tool kit that uses a horseshoe type set up that works like magic. Have you seen it? I would have to watch it again but i think that horseshoe set up will pull that hub out in a jiffy.
I have not seen that tool, but I will see if I can get information on it, thanks
I have a 5 1/2 heavy vise mounted on my work table and i have blocks of wood and a few other clamps. Im sure i could make this work they way Richard is doing it. Last week i had a local shop do the bearing for me but those guys wont be around forever. A bad wheel bearing will leave you in bad shape. I think im gonna spend the 300.00 and buy that new bearing install kit with the new hub remover tool added. It will last for ever and lets face it, front wheel drive cars always need a wheel bearing sooner or later.
You are so right.
I use the jack screw from my hub grappler. I also use a .750 (3/4") id thrust bearing instead of washers
Great idea
Happy Easter Richard.
you as well
You are a master.
Thanks for your support it was very helpful
Thanks, it might be the first time being called that.
Honda FIT 2013 Update, New wheel bearing (Timken) ( i used a brand new hub with studs already installled) (21.00). new lower control arm by Mevotech, (includes bushings and ball joint) new outer tie rod end, new CV axle by GSP. New brake caliper. All parts from Rock Auto. The CV axle was 1 inch shorter than the OEB but fit perfect. No alignment needed. This job is complete.
Great job.
Thanks Richard. I just need to buy a nice creeper because im 57 now and crawling under the car on that asphalt almost killed me.@@richardspaulding5035
Damn good school is never out for the professional keep up the good work.
thanks for the kind words
Mobil 1™ Synthetic Grease, the official automotive grease of NASCAR, is an advanced full synthetic grease formulated with a proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks and a lithium complex soap thickener. The thickener system provides a high dropping point, while additives impart excellent extreme-pressure properties and resistance to water wash, rust and corrosion. The proprietary blend of high-performance synthetic base stocks used in Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease gives reliable lubrication over wide temperature ranges -50 C (-58 F) to 246 C (475 F). Outstanding structural stability coupled with high performance synthetic base stocks make Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease an outstanding all-purpose automotive grease.
I will pick some up
Also a good time for new dust shields
As always thanks
Beautiful well instructed,sir. Thank you .
Thanks for the kind words, I was responsible for training a lot of the young people in my shop before I retired. I am well familiar with giving instructions. It is funny as the young people in my shop dearly loved to poke fun at me (the old man) but when they wanted to know how to do something I was the one they came to see.
I have seen some videos where an oxyacetylene torch was used to heat it until it falls off
I have been sliding the race off with an air hammer since the 1970s. I understand they have a special tool for that now, but I am an old dog. I have never considered using a torch, but I am going to try to find one of those videos out of curiosity.
he kits at the parts stores are heavy duty that will take the force of an impact gun.
I am sure there are kits available that are heavy duty. However, the kit used in the video is not. The kit in the video only goes for about $60 on Ebay. I have had numerous complaints from people who have stripped the jackscrew while using a power tool, In the video I cranked it by hand as you may have noticed.
You can probably find a much stronger replacement jack screw through a firm such as McMaster & Carr.
Thanks for the suggestion. So far mine has held up ok. Being that I am now retired it is only used occasionally these days. I always make sure it is well lubricated and I only crank it by hand with an ordinary ratchet.
Are you sure you pressed the new hub in far enough? @7:58 the old hub is close to the edge of the race. @29:08 the hub is a long way away from the previous one.
I did the repair more than 5 years ago and as far as I know the car is still on the road so I must have done something right.
Thank you, really helpful video.
The videos I have posted on this kit have been by far my most popular. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
ive just bought this tool and watched a few videos.one inparticular the guy used a dewalt impat wrench and stripped the bolt.do you advise using only a wrench? Great video by the way.
Yes, I think I mentioned that in the video. keep the jack screw lubricated and only turn it with a hand tools such as a ratchet or wrench. I have had a number of complaints about the jack screw getting stripped and in each case, they have admitted using a power tool. I have used this tool numerous times with hand tools only and have never stripped the jackscrew. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching.
Thankyou for the quick reply. I will hide my impact wrench! 👍
@@normancassin6416 Although my channel is growing it is still small enough that I can try to reply to all my comments.
How would using an impact put more stress on the bolt than using your hand? It still demands the same force to push it in/out? Sounds like bs to me. There are plenty of videos showing an impact being used. It saves hours of time and stress on your body.
@@tg8150 Evidently you have no understanding of velocity.
My outer snap ring came out nicely but it also stayed out I forgot to put it back in
I have done worse things. I think you need to pull it all apart and start over. You will most likely have to buy another bearing. You can't take a chance of the hub popping off with the wheel sometime down the road.
Well explained.
thanks for the kind words, Look forward to hearing from you again.
Also, i had to destroy the speed sensor to get it out and also had to drill that speed sensor hole out a little as it has plastic and rust really bad. I put the drill bit just barely in the chuck and used a sight angle. Got that hole cleaned out and put in a new speed sensor. This job is now complete. 2013 Honda Fit with 141k.
I think I may have mentioned I used a torch in a similar situation and faced all kinds of negative comments lol.
The speed sensor on the Honda is made of hard plastic and the hole it fits in gets filled with rust. Even when you break the sensor (after removing the 10 mm bolt) you will still have hard black plastic left in that hole. It must be drilled out. Even after you drill the remains of the plastic sensor out you will still need to open up that hole a little because that plastic tends to be fused to the walls of the hole. Again, you gotta get all that old plastic and rust out of that hole. Select the proper size drill bit.@@richardspaulding5035
You can use a torch to melt that old plastic sensor out of the hole but you will still need a drill bit to get that hole clean.
@@mg8718 Sorry I did not explain that well. The part I torched was made of metal in the car I was referring to. The negative comments were about changing the properties of the steering knuckle by heating it.
I dont think your gonna do any harm to that steering knuckle with a little heat.@@richardspaulding5035
There is a Mexican guy a few doors down. He is a mechanic, but old school. He always takes the knuckle off. But, he knows his s#$t. I need to do my fronts on a 2013 CRV. I will get the kit from autozone and give it a try. If I am unsuccessful I will let my Mexican friend do it. I have done many hub assemblies. Just bolt them on.
Honda is a nice vehicle; they look good, ride nice, and are very quiet. But do they ever suck to work on! I have an Accord in the shop as I am writing this reply. My nephew had it towed in with a broken drive axle earlier this week. He gave up on it after the first day and has not been back. Now I have got to finish it unless I want it as a permanent onement in my shop.
That white grease is no good. I would hose it out and fill it with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease. Most of these bearings are sealed. And on some the seal has a magnet encoder on it and you dont want to remove that.
Muchly appreciated as always, by all means don't be a stranger. I look forward to your inputs.
On that type of snap ring you can use an 8 inch pair of needle nose.
I will try that next time
Snap ring plyers
Good job very help!
This video along with part two have been by far my most popular postings. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching.
Nice Job ..Opa ..i like it
Not yet, lol
great video thanks doing this today with the same kit
Good luck, i just want to mention I did the job on the bench, it is not necessary to remove the steering knuckle from the car. The bearing can be installed with the knuckle still in the vehicle.
Does the kit work on 4x4 trucks like the Ford Ranger, or it's for small vehicles?
Not for trucks, mostly small front wheel drive vehicles. Most trucks have sealed bolt on hubs. Thanks for the question.
What lubricant are you using for install?
It was nothing special as I recall, whatever I had handy. I will say this: If you ever want to lubricate something rubber make sure the lubricant is silicone based. If you use a petroleum-based lubricant it will eventually start to eat away a petroleum-based seal or rubber part. I say rubber but almost nothing is actually made of rubber anymore. It has been mostly petroleum-based since after WW2. When tubeless tires became popular in the 1950s mechanics were using axle grease to help seal a stubborn bead. They discovered the grease would eat into the bead over time thus ruining the tire. I apologize for the history lesson LOL.
Thank you 🌹
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply as i spent some time in the hospital this past week. Thanks for watching my channel and I hope the video was helpful.
The object of the kit is to eliminate the need to remove the knuckle from the vehicle.
Yes, the kit can be used in the vehicle, I believe I mentioned this in the video. I had the knuckle out only for visual clarity. Furthermore, if one does not have access to a bench vice, using the kit while the knuckle is still in the vehicle is the only way to go.
What size of the socket did you loosen the bearing with the hammer?
It was an 11/8 socket I used with a hammer to separate the hub from the bearing.
Very clear intro thank u
Thanks for the kind words. This has been one of my most popular videos.
How’s it going sir, what lube do you use to keep the threaded bolt lubricated ?
You can use just about any lubricant.
Yes i know guys and many shops will only do the wheel bearing while with the knuckle on the car. Mysleft, i prefer to do the wheel bearing on the work bench.
Agreed, you have to knock the ball joint out anyway. After that removing the knuckle is easy
Hi, do you think the kit will work trying to extract and replace the bearing in a motorhome , Fiat Ducato 244, 18Q, 2.8 jtd ,year 2005.
Will it have enough strength?
The external diameter bearing is 90 mm.
The inside diameter is 55mm.
It has 60 mm long.
I don't think so, but I have never tried it on one of those. The kit is designed for passenger cars and light trucks.
@@richardspaulding5035 But, has it at least for 90 mm external diameter bearing a piece that fits so you can try to push?
@@Vitimk12 Yes it has the correct size adaptors, my concern is will the jackscrew hold up. A number of my viewers have complained they had stripped the jackscrew. If you want to try using it keep the jackscrew well lubricated and do not use a power tool to turn it. Use a long-handled ratchet like I did in the video. You don't have a lot to lose as you can buy the kit for about $70 and if it works you will save hundreds. keep in touch
@@richardspaulding5035 Thanks a lot for the info...
If you have a torch just run the flame around the race and it will come off of the hub like it didn't want to be there
Thanks, I will try that
And put the bearing in the freezer overnight, it'll drop in.
@@kevinbush7907 I have heard that, have tried it but still needed the press.
Great video thanks for sharing I’ll be picking one of these up
One of the few items that have gone down in price. I paid more than $100 for mine
@@richardspaulding5035 from what I found online kit goes for bout 100 bucks seems worth it and easy then messing around with press dies
Sounds like you're from Boston!
LOL, 50 miles to the southeast between Boston and Cape Cod. One side of the family is from Boston the other side is from Cape Cod, I picked up some of both accents.
In Boston , NO ONE Pronounces the letter “ R “
What size socket and wrench did you use
I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. The socket was 1-1/4 inch, and the wrench was 1-1/8 inch. I used a long handled 1/2-inch drive ratchet. Do not use a power tool to turn it and keep the jack screw lubricated.
Based upon his accent, I can conclude that this is a rust belt vehicle.
LOL, very much so. I am about 50 miles southeast of Boston near Cape Cod. I picked up the accent from a little of both places. Right now, I have a rust belt Honda in the shop, it has been a nightmare so far. Enjoyed the conversation, by all means don't be a stranger.
We should be able to buy pre loaded knuckles. Bearing and hubs. Easy.
Yes, they are available for some vehicles
Which shop can I buy it
They are available on eBay for less than $60. Just type in wheel bearing press kit in the search window and dozens will pop up, most with free shipping.
I ordered a new hub with my new bearing. It was like 20 bucks.
not a bad idea to order both
I dont have air tools anymore but if i do this job someday i will just use a new hub. They only cost about 25.00 bucks,
I mentioned just that in one of my follow up videos. replacing the hub is not a bad idea.
You can re-use the hub. You seem to to a good job with saving the hub. I only got a new hub because all my studs were sheered off and the new hub was only 21.00 bucks. You might have to do this job without a new hub! Good job Richard. Your video is very helpful. Wheel bearings will leave you stranded!@@richardspaulding5035
Can i use these to remove control arm bushing?
I don't think so, but it would not hurt to try. Let me know if it works.
There are bushing press tools available with a similar price point on amazon. I tested the one i just bought by pressing out my control arm bushings from my jetta, was easy. No power tools (threads won't handle it) and lubricate the threads.
If I have to buy complete hub bearing than is no need to watch ur video!
There are some vehicles that the bearing and hub are preassembled and just bolt on. One such vehicle I worked on recently was a 2016 Nissan Rouge. That bearing was a bolt on, very easy. The point I was trying to make in the video (evidently not well enough) is that on a press in type bearing the inner race gets stuck on the old hub. If one does not have the means to remove it, then just replace the hub. In the video you saw me drive the old race off the hub with an air hammer. In any event, even if you decide to get a new hub you still need the kit to press the bearing and hub back in. Unless of course your car has a bolt on hub as mentioned above. In that instance you do not need the kit at all. Thanks for the comment as it gave me a chance to clear that up.
Bro I I could give you more than a like it is due! You’re the man 🎉❤
Thank you for your kindness. These videos on the bearing press kit have been by far my most popular videos.
a bearing separator?
I am an old dog; I know there are such tools, however I learned to do it this way almost 50 years ago as a young mechanic in the 1970s.
Whit this kit you no need take off buckle from car
You are correct. Thanks for pointing that out for the viewers. It is something I should have mentioned in the video. The reason I removed the knuckle is because the video was to be only about using the kit. Demonstrating its use on the bench was for visual clarity. However, if there is no access to a bench or vise then using it on the vehicle is the best option.
That is how they repair your American Specification V6, V8 & V12 Cars in Africa...!🤔🤔😇😇👍👍
Thanks, I just subscribed to your channel.
do you have a link for this?
Just go to eBay, in the search window type in (front wheel bearing press kit) dozens of them will pop up. Most are under $60 free shipping
wtf get on with it already,6 minutes in im already putting my shit back to gether
I am very happy for you.
We are so proud of our little angel❤
@@WICKEDWYATTog Very happy for you
No is cheap made thats why the threads after couple times they were out
The kit is not for everyday use as in a repair shop, I have had my kit for several years using it only occasionally. I have had over one million views and thousands of comments from the 3 videos I have produced on that kit. The main reason the jack screw fails is because they do not lubricate it and use power tools to crank it. If used only occasionally keeping the screw lubricated turning it only by hand with a ratchet it will last many years as has mine.
@@richardspaulding5035 the thing is I had it 2 times I use it and the threats went bad I had to go fix one coast me more then then the hole tool kit nothing wrong with the rest of it only the bolt with the nut is the problem the rest is good
@@richardspaulding5035 don't make scents is not every day use.You by something to use it?
@@spiridondimaris465 Give me a break! You know what am talking about. A device that sells for under $100 dollars is absolutely not designed for a professional auto shop. It is made for the DYI guy for USE AT HOME where it might be used 2 or 3 times a year if that. Please be honest, when you stripped that jack screw you were using an air impact gun, am I correct?
@@richardspaulding5035 if course some times you need Jack hummer to get it out in less y you have plenty time in your hands and feel like playing all day I want to get it done soon is possible so I can't do the next 👍
😂ratchet my Audi 80 quattro bearing laughed at exactly same kit using a 30" breaker bar with extention the threads died before the bearing came out !!! Lubricated or not cheap Chinese Steel !!!
No question the kit is not for everyday use such as a repair shop. However, I have used mine on numerous occasions without difficulty. I would love to have been there to see what and how. If you had to force it with a breaker bar something was not quite right. As you saw in the video, I used an ordinary flex head ratchet. I have never used nothing but a ratchet with the kit.
My threads rounded out and failed, stripped. I used my torque power wrench too. I use all the other stuff with a press I bought, 12 ton harbour freight.
@@burtflak9409 I don't know what you guys are doing. I have used mine on numerous occasions. Never with any sort of power or toque wrench, only with an ordinary hand ratchet. Never had a problem with the jack screw, still looks as good as the day I purchased it.
You can replace one of much better quality from McMaster & Carr the rest of my kit seems like it will outlive me
No question the kit is inexpensive. I guess we get what we pay for. So far I have been lucky with mine.
I used this today and u have the cup at the wrong end . And u can also do it while it's still on the car.
Friend, it is too bad you did not watch the video as I addressed the issue of using the kit on the car in the opening. Furthermore, I absolutely did not have the cup on the wrong end. If you reverse the way I demonstrated the kit the lip inside the knuckle would prevent the bearings removal. I have had more than 1 million views on the use of this kit. Not a single viewer other than yourself has suggested I did anything wrong.
best how to video, thanks ...
Thank you, these videos on how to use this kit have been by far my most popular and largely responsible for getting my channel monetized. If I sound like a teacher, it is because I was tasked with training many of the young people in my shop. Being the old man, the young guys loved to poke fun at me, but when they wanted to know how to do something I was the go-to guy LOL.
Talknative
Thanks I think