Hahaha! Yes my friend - good prayer! I no longer have that car, but I did so much work to it, I was constantly taking that wheel off, and the CV axles. That little bit of high temp grease works wonders for future jobs! If you want to see where I paid the karma gods, and removing something didn't go well, check out my catalytic converter video:)
THANKS! I aM about to take the dive. I got my Amerbm wheel bearing press kit, and again thanks to your vid I have a better understanding of the mechanics.
At first I thought it was easy after I seen you man a lot of work but your most definitely precise working man very nice the way you work you don't want to abuse any parts I like that you are the man
Thank You Soo Much Sir!! You communicate as well as demonstrate very well the procedure in this particular auto repair!!! Please continue the Great Work!!😊😊
Just wanted to add that you are absolutely correct regarding the need for a really solid backing when installing the wheel hub or risk the chance of pushing out the race ... just ask me how I know
Hello , can I ask you about counter holding the small (finger sized / shape) tapered nut that is put on the back end of the threaded rod ; which is then spun against the female splines and then is counter held with a wrench ? It’s like trying to put a wrench on a nut at the bottom of an empty tuna fish can ?! The female splines part of the hub are a few inches within the spindle / knuckle / hub housing and the hex end of the nut sits a bit too deep within this cavernous opening for the wrench to get on it . Plus when the threaded spindle is turned at the main nut (pressure screw) this tapered nut would travel more and more within (isolated away) from any wrench & eventually emerge out the other side along with the wheel hub once pressed out . I’m confused / am I missing something ? So how does the counter holding the tapered nut with a wrench happen ? Is it only at the very beginning and the after a couple turns of the threaded rod/tension screw no longer required ?? Any help you can provide would be much appreciated ! 🙏🏼
Great question. Quick answer is I don’t know. I am not an expert on the differences between silicone and grease. I use high temp grease, and personally I would not use silicone. Best to consult an expert on that one. I will say my expert is a certified mechanic friend who builds helicopters and can do whatever he wants to any engine. Extremely smart person. He recommended high-temp grease, and remember, the amount should be very little.
Put the bearing in the freezer overnight to shrink it slightly. Light smear of bearing grease or high temp brake lube like syl-glide is a good idea, too
After market is fine. I think you’d be splitting hairs to prove better functionality from OEM via aftermarket. Some mechanical parts, totally different answer. In this case, check reviews from people who have used what you’re buying, and if it sounds to good to be true ($), it probably is. Good luck!
sure you got the job done, this tool is basically a cheaper version of the hub tamer, but for my 2 cents, if you had a shop press, it would be way easier, to go one step further and take the upper ball joint off , and bring the whole knuckle to the shop press ,and do all the work there
On the Honda Fit you cant even get the dust shield off until the hub is removed. I always pull the knuckle off the car. Thats just the way i do it. Im thinking that your bearing tool kit will also work with the knuckle on my work bench and held in placewith my shop vice. Anyway, for now i iwll just let my shop guy up the street do it with his press. Also, a new hub is only like 21.00.
It’s not that easy peeps. This is an all day job if not all weekend for us mere mortals. Most people who choose to do it this way do not disconnect the lower ball joints which is a huge if not impossible job itself. So you are left with the driveshaft right in the way. You soon realize how valuable your time is and wished you would’ve paid someone to do it. Trust me.
I rented it from a parts store (O’Reilly). Usually all parts stores that rent tools have it. You can purchase cheapest on Amazon, just make sure it has good reviews. There’s some junk out there.
Of course. It will just be a much slower process. They’re in there pretty tight, and there’s not a lot of room to maneuver the bar since you’re limited to the wheel well - sort of - hence why an impact driver is nice. You can get a pretty cheap on at Harbor Freight, or even Amazon. You do get what you pay for, but if you intend to use it once a year, then who cares. Couple times a week? Pay for the quality.
Hard to describe. More of a struggle to get the wheel to complete a revolution smoothly. It’s not like bad brakes that are instantly noticeable. I felt it more in the steering wheel. Especially when turning.
it will feel like ur tire going fall off... jack the car up (the tire you think it bad). use your hand to shake the tire back and forth , if it shake around like crazy, it a bad bearing. if it solid it nothing to do with the bearing.
If I would have watched this before I ever started instead of other videos I would have saved a ton of money and time. I had the same kit from orileys and royally messed up how to use it.
Hello , can I ask you about counter holding the smaller (half a finger sized / shape ) nut which is threaded at the back of the threaded rod and is inserted on the surface of the female splines ? This nut goes into the spindle / knuckle housing which is like trying to get a wrench to hold a nut at the bottom of an empty tuna fish can . Plus the nut works it’s way (travels) deeper and dapper inside and eventually shows up at the other end when the hub and nut emerge . So I’m confused about what to do / how did you counter hold it with a wrench during the process ? I’m working on a 2010 BMW 328 AWD .
Hey there. For me, the nut had groves in it like an octagon, to receive the wrench. As it pulls through the hub, the wrench just goes through the hub, but not at such an angle that it prevents the threaded rod from doing its job. The kit has multiple discs at varying sizes so that you can match it to your hub. I’m not sure what your setup is, but there shouldn’t be any situation where it’s like the tuna can you described. Good luck man!
@@durk1980 Hello . Thanks for sharing your extra time and knowledge to assist me with my challenge . I appreciate everything you have said . It seems that on my 2010 BMW AWD the wheel carrier / knuckle has a big cavernous indentation on it’s back side (inboard) . The smallest press plate my kit comes with is a wee too big (in diameter) to be placed on the back of the hub (female splines) without extending upon the wheel bearing itself . Therefore I was hoping to do as you did and simply place the long tube hex nut directly upon the female splines of the hub spine . Well that’s a no go because of the problem I described . You have helped me by your answer . I now know that I’ll have to go about this slightly differently than what your wheel carrier / knuckle required for tool set up . 👍🏼
Yea even if you place the stepped side into the bearing to keep it centred the hub may not press all the way in BUT once you tighten the axle nut to speck it should force the hub the rest of the way
Can I ask you about how to counter hold the tapered nut (the finger sized / shape one) that is put on the end of the threaded rod until it rest against the female splines of the hub ? All of this is happening within the knuckle / bearing housing … but it’s like trying to put a wrench on a nut that is on the bottom of an empty tuna fish can . Also when the tension screw at the main end is turned to spin the threaded rod this tapered nut “disappears even deeper into the cavern of the wheel carrier / knuckle making it beyond the reach of any counter holding wrench . Any help you can provide would be much appreciated ! 🙏🏼
There are sleeves in the hub removal kit (O'Reilly Auto Parts) that the bearing is supposed to be pressed into. This is not only practical, but a safety feature, too.
Just did this myself for my old 1997 Civic. Not one single video I have watched mentions the fact that when you install the new bearing the inner race actually sticks out past the outer race, they are not flush even with each other. So when you are pressing the new bearing in you are not pressing on the outer race, all the force is on the inner race. Anyone else ever noticed this?
Hey MC CH. thx for the comment. I just rewatched my video, and while I didn’t make any mention of this, the lip created by the inner race and the outside edge, or lip, of the outer race, were indeed flush with each other on my wheel bearings. I would have to buy another one, and look to see how close they are, but if they are not flush with each other, that would surprise me. Whenever I put the wheel bearing kit spacers on the wheel bearing, they were always flush across both surfaces. In other words, it never rocked back-and-forth, going from the inner race edge to the outer race edge. Does that answer your question? Hopefully you were able to have success!
Wow. Prices must’ve changed from when I did this then. It was way cheaper then to just get the bearing. No argument though that your job was easier! Thx
It’s all in the video description. I rented them. All parts shops should have the bearing extractor set to rent. You shouldn’t need to buy it. If you want to buy it, check Amazon or Google.
Ive been thru this shit a dozen times. Im doing it on my Honda Fit this time. My shop guy will press in the new bearing for me for 60.00. We will also replace the hub as well.
Nope. I was dead wrong. Hes up the steet at the gas station shop and he sucks. He couldnt do it. I had to take to another shop 3.5 miles away who actually knows what hes doing. @@durk1980 Hes telling me 60.00 also. Ive used him before and hes a bearing install master!
The inner race is just part of the bearing. You can’t buy just the inner race. If you replaced only the inner race, you’d be opening the bearing and having to repack the ball bearing and grease, etc., then pray that it aligned perfectly as you out it back, which would be very difficult in and of itself. The whole bearing replacement process is in the video, and you should follow that general process: remove it in parts, reinstall it as one unit. I don’t have the part number for the bearing itself. It will be specific to your car. Any parts store will identify it based on year, make and model. Good luck!
It’s a front wheel bearing tool kit. Rented it from O’Reilly. Advance didn’t have it in. Most parts stores will rent it for free. If you really just want it, Amazon sells them for under $100. Like all things, you can get a really expensive one that does the same thing. Check the reviews if you’re going to buy it. I suggest renting it.
@TG, push and pull are mostly relative terms. When you "pull" something, it usually implies something is in tension. In this case, the bolt is in tension, so in away, it is pulling. Whe you are pushing something, it normally indicates compression, the bolt is almost never in compression, so you're always pulling. But for every action there's an equal and opposite reaction, the the disc/sleeve is compressed only because the bolt (under tension) acts on the disc/sleeve.
Yep. I’ve seen them be slightly arched, and knew the pneumatic gun likely was going the wrong way, or went full send when it should not have. At least you have the tool now!
Ugh I spent all day and failed so I'm taking the tool back to rent next week cause it's 400 to rent it and it scares me the longer I hold it.... Needed sockets and my rachet broke into piece's.... Almost couldn't put anything back together...
Bro, you have no idea how much that sweat drops on humid summer days! We’ve since moved from that house, and my garage faces East. Can’t tell you how excited I am to not lose weight every time I do a project in the summer.
Well, that's possible, in theory, but you have to have it setup to accept that strike. It's hard to do. I've seen big guys take take hammers and fail at that. If you can get that to work - go for it!
You're thinking about the kind that's easy to hammer out, these are just straight circles. I was scared of the press until I bought one and now I'm just a lil frightened by it.
Yo no soy mecanico!; con todo respeto para todos ; yo cambie un balero de mi Honda Pilot en una hora mas o menos; y no trngo esa herramienta, pero cada quien
Most of the work? We must be watching different videos. While I don’t just leave the camera on and simply upload the whole thing, it’s certainly enough to educate.
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video durk! I didn't understand what the race is until i saw this video. Thanks lad.
I only pray that everyone watching this video has their Axle nut and CV axle free up as easy as yours
Hahaha! Yes my friend - good prayer! I no longer have that car, but I did so much work to it, I was constantly taking that wheel off, and the CV axles. That little bit of high temp grease works wonders for future jobs! If you want to see where I paid the karma gods, and removing something didn't go well, check out my catalytic converter video:)
Raises their little pinky up at you here from sunny South Florida 🥳
Thick wall sockets and you’re ready to rock bro
Extraordinary detail ! Tremendous camera shots !! Super helpful !!! I learned lots !!!! Thanks mate 👊🏼🔥 .
Glad it was helpful!
THANKS! I aM about to take the dive. I got my Amerbm wheel bearing press kit, and again thanks to your vid I have a better understanding of the mechanics.
So easy once you do it once…like most auto jobs.
This helped me figure out the tool. Just did a wheel Bearing on a 09 Honda Fit, it was identical.
Awesome!
7. Im
At first I thought it was easy after I seen you man a lot of work but your most definitely precise working man very nice the way you work you don't want to abuse any parts I like that you are the man
Thanks man!
Thank You Soo Much Sir!! You communicate as well as demonstrate very well the procedure in this particular auto repair!!! Please continue the Great Work!!😊😊
So nice of you!
The best video every. Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Thank you!
Just wanted to add that you are absolutely correct regarding the need for a really solid backing when installing the wheel hub or risk the chance of pushing out the race ... just ask me how I know
Sounds like we learned the same lesson! Lol
Like that one song Say "the second time around". Lol
GREAT VIDEO! detailed explanation- helped me out huge!!
Glad it helped!
Hello , can I ask you about counter holding the small (finger sized / shape) tapered nut that is put on the back end of the threaded rod ; which is then spun against the female splines and then is counter held with a wrench ? It’s like trying to put a wrench on a nut at the bottom of an empty tuna fish can ?! The female splines part of the hub are a few inches within the spindle / knuckle / hub housing and the hex end of the nut sits a bit too deep within this cavernous opening for the wrench to get on it . Plus when the threaded spindle is turned at the main nut (pressure screw) this tapered nut would travel more and more within (isolated away) from any wrench & eventually emerge out the other side along with the wheel hub once pressed out . I’m confused / am I missing something ? So how does the counter holding the tapered nut with a wrench happen ? Is it only at the very beginning and the after a couple turns of the threaded rod/tension screw no longer required ?? Any help you can provide would be much appreciated ! 🙏🏼
This is a great tool and video! Just used it on my 2018 Ram 1500 ecodiesel.
Thank you! Hope the job went well.
Thank you for the video. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
What is the name of that baleros tool, please?
I think you’re asking about the “bearing” tool? That’s the main one, I’m assuming:
O'Reilly's tool 67034: Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set
LOL, love the last Chris Pratt bit at the end
Thx man
Can you use silicone grease on the outside of the bearing for the installation into the hub?
Great question. Quick answer is I don’t know. I am not an expert on the differences between silicone and grease. I use high temp grease, and personally I would not use silicone. Best to consult an expert on that one. I will say my expert is a certified mechanic friend who builds helicopters and can do whatever he wants to any engine. Extremely smart person. He recommended high-temp grease, and remember, the amount should be very little.
Put the bearing in the freezer overnight to shrink it slightly.
Light smear of bearing grease or high temp brake lube like syl-glide is a good idea, too
What size is the A nut??
What’s the name of the horse shoe looking piece?
Hey there. Not sure. It comes with the wheel bearing removal tool when rented.
great video durk. very helpful. i was wondering if you recommend using the original hondamde wheel bearings or can use aftermarket is fine?
After market is fine. I think you’d be splitting hairs to prove better functionality from OEM via aftermarket. Some mechanical parts, totally different answer. In this case, check reviews from people who have used what you’re buying, and if it sounds to good to be true ($), it probably is. Good luck!
@@durk1980 Thanks for the feedback!
Really appreciate your time involved in making this vid.
I had to lol at the "ask me how I know"
I say that at least once a week.
Glad it helped; thank you!
What is that press called? NVM.
Oreiily 67213
Impossible job without it!
sure you got the job done, this tool is basically a cheaper version of the hub tamer, but for my 2 cents, if you had a shop press, it would be way easier, to go one step further and take the upper ball joint off , and bring the whole knuckle to the shop press ,and do all the work there
Completely agree. Shop press would be awesome!
Just did a wheel bearing on a 2000 accord. Shop press way easier!!
On the Honda Fit you cant even get the dust shield off until the hub is removed. I always pull the knuckle off the car. Thats just the way i do it. Im thinking that your bearing tool kit will also work with the knuckle on my work bench and held in placewith my shop vice. Anyway, for now i iwll just let my shop guy up the street do it with his press. Also, a new hub is only like 21.00.
Correct, they’re not that expensive, but if you don’t have a press, or a friend with one, this really wasn’t that hard with the loaner tools.
It’s not that easy peeps. This is an all day job if not all weekend for us mere mortals. Most people who choose to do it this way do not disconnect the lower ball joints which is a huge if not impossible job itself. So you are left with the driveshaft right in the way. You soon realize how valuable your time is and wished you would’ve paid someone to do it. Trust me.
I guess I got lucky!
Use safety glasses please while doing this job. You could also use a chisel and 4 pound hammer to break the inner race suitably supported.
You’re 100% right on the safety glasses. I usually do.
1111@@durk1980
Hola dónde venden esa heramienta
I rented it from a parts store (O’Reilly). Usually all parts stores that rent tools have it. You can purchase cheapest on Amazon, just make sure it has good reviews. There’s some junk out there.
On this corner be sure to put the magnetic side to the back by the speed ring. Did you buy the puller set or use a loaner from a parts store?
Loaned it from O’Reilly. I usually get stuff from Advance, but they were out.
Can this be done without an inpact driver? I.e a wrench with a bar?
Of course. It will just be a much slower process. They’re in there pretty tight, and there’s not a lot of room to maneuver the bar since you’re limited to the wheel well - sort of - hence why an impact driver is nice. You can get a pretty cheap on at Harbor Freight, or even Amazon. You do get what you pay for, but if you intend to use it once a year, then who cares. Couple times a week? Pay for the quality.
Great info thanks to your video I got my hub out easy I will keep looking back to this video if I need any help
Thanks and good luck!
@@durk1980 after watching the video 2or 3 times it was easy and I have to do one again so I saved the video
Where did you get the wheel bearing tool
O'Reilly's tool 67034
When the wheel bearing starts going bad, does it start to make a certain sound?
Hard to describe. More of a struggle to get the wheel to complete a revolution smoothly. It’s not like bad brakes that are instantly noticeable. I felt it more in the steering wheel. Especially when turning.
it will feel like ur tire going fall off... jack the car up (the tire you think it bad). use your hand to shake the tire back and forth , if it shake around like crazy, it a bad bearing. if it solid it nothing to do with the bearing.
Yes!! It's like a humming sound that starts at around 40 mph, as you speed up the pitch of the sound increases too
Great explanation. What did you do with the speed sensor?
Didn’t touch it. It wasn’t in the way for my vehicle.
If I would have watched this before I ever started instead of other videos I would have saved a ton of money and time. I had the same kit from orileys and royally messed up how to use it.
The ultimate compliment and reason I started this channel. Thanks man.
Hello , can I ask you about counter holding the smaller (half a finger sized / shape ) nut which is threaded at the back of the threaded rod and is inserted on the surface of the female splines ? This nut goes into the spindle / knuckle housing which is like trying to get a wrench to hold a nut at the bottom of an empty tuna fish can . Plus the nut works it’s way (travels) deeper and dapper inside and eventually shows up at the other end when the hub and nut emerge . So I’m confused about what to do / how did you counter hold it with a wrench during the process ? I’m working on a 2010 BMW 328 AWD .
Hey there. For me, the nut had groves in it like an octagon, to receive the wrench. As it pulls through the hub, the wrench just goes through the hub, but not at such an angle that it prevents the threaded rod from doing its job.
The kit has multiple discs at varying sizes so that you can match it to your hub. I’m not sure what your setup is, but there shouldn’t be any situation where it’s like the tuna can you described. Good luck man!
@@durk1980
Hello . Thanks for sharing your extra time and knowledge to assist me with my challenge . I appreciate everything you have said . It seems that on my 2010 BMW AWD the wheel carrier / knuckle has a big cavernous indentation on it’s back side (inboard) . The smallest press plate my kit comes with is a wee too big (in diameter) to be placed on the back of the hub (female splines) without extending upon the wheel bearing itself . Therefore I was hoping to do as you did and simply place the long tube hex nut directly upon the female splines of the hub spine . Well that’s a no go because of the problem I described . You have helped me by your answer . I now know that I’ll have to go about this slightly differently than what your wheel carrier / knuckle required for tool set up . 👍🏼
I got that bearing tool but it's OEM tools. I put that step down part into the bearing to help keep it centered
Oh, got it. Hopefully it worked just as well, or even better!
Yea even if you place the stepped side into the bearing to keep it centred the hub may not press all the way in BUT once you tighten the axle nut to speck it should force the hub the rest of the way
Can I ask you about how to counter hold the tapered nut (the finger sized / shape one) that is put on the end of the threaded rod until it rest against the female splines of the hub ? All of this is happening within the knuckle / bearing housing … but it’s like trying to put a wrench on a nut that is on the bottom of an empty tuna fish can . Also when the tension screw at the main end is turned to spin the threaded rod this tapered nut “disappears even deeper into the cavern of the wheel carrier / knuckle making it beyond the reach of any counter holding wrench . Any help you can provide would be much appreciated ! 🙏🏼
@@ricardopiscinayes
There are sleeves in the hub removal kit (O'Reilly Auto Parts) that the bearing is supposed to be pressed into. This is not only practical, but a safety feature, too.
Great tip, thanks!
Mine did not and I used the rental
Great work. What is the name of the first tool you used?
I assume you mean O'Reilly's tool 67034: Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set. It’s in the description. Good luck!
@@durk1980 no the horseshoe looking thin
The horseshoe looking part in is the rental kit. It all comes together.
Just did this myself for my old 1997 Civic. Not one single video I have watched mentions the fact that when you install the new bearing the inner race actually sticks out past the outer race, they are not flush even with each other. So when you are pressing the new bearing in you are not pressing on the outer race, all the force is on the inner race. Anyone else ever noticed this?
Hey MC CH. thx for the comment. I just rewatched my video, and while I didn’t make any mention of this, the lip created by the inner race and the outside edge, or lip, of the outer race, were indeed flush with each other on my wheel bearings. I would have to buy another one, and look to see how close they are, but if they are not flush with each other, that would surprise me. Whenever I put the wheel bearing kit spacers on the wheel bearing, they were always flush across both surfaces. In other words, it never rocked back-and-forth, going from the inner race edge to the outer race edge. Does that answer your question? Hopefully you were able to have success!
I found that is was cheaper and much easier to replace the whole spindle, which comes with a new bearing
Wow. Prices must’ve changed from when I did this then. It was way cheaper then to just get the bearing. No argument though that your job was easier! Thx
For rear only
PS: Im glad you used WD-40 on the press screw instead of grease!
:)
What is the name of the tools or where can I buy it at.. part number. Please
It’s all in the video description. I rented them. All parts shops should have the bearing extractor set to rent. You shouldn’t need to buy it. If you want to buy it, check Amazon or Google.
Ive been thru this shit a dozen times. Im doing it on my Honda Fit this time. My shop guy will press in the new bearing for me for 60.00. We will also replace the hub as well.
Good to have a friend like that! Good luck.
Nope. I was dead wrong. Hes up the steet at the gas station shop and he sucks. He couldnt do it. I had to take to another shop 3.5 miles away who actually knows what hes doing. @@durk1980 Hes telling me 60.00 also. Ive used him before and hes a bearing install master!
Very nice bro
Thank you!
Fluid film is the best
:)
What’s the part number for the inner race
The inner race is just part of the bearing. You can’t buy just the inner race. If you replaced only the inner race, you’d be opening the bearing and having to repack the ball bearing and grease, etc., then pray that it aligned perfectly as you out it back, which would be very difficult in and of itself. The whole bearing replacement process is in the video, and you should follow that general process: remove it in parts, reinstall it as one unit. I don’t have the part number for the bearing itself. It will be specific to your car. Any parts store will identify it based on year, make and model. Good luck!
@@durk1980 okay so once I have the bearings im good
Yes. Good luck!
what is the name of this tool?
It’s a front wheel bearing tool kit. Rented it from O’Reilly. Advance didn’t have it in. Most parts stores will rent it for free. If you really just want it, Amazon sells them for under $100. Like all things, you can get a really expensive one that does the same thing. Check the reviews if you’re going to buy it. I suggest renting it.
Also it’s in the video description
The front plates don’t “pull” the hub out; it is pushed from the inside out.
Correct. Sometimes in the moment I screw up saying what I'm seeing:)
@TG, push and pull are mostly relative terms. When you "pull" something, it usually implies something is in tension. In this case, the bolt is in tension, so in away, it is pulling. Whe you are pushing something, it normally indicates compression, the bolt is almost never in compression, so you're always pulling. But for every action there's an equal and opposite reaction, the the disc/sleeve is compressed only because the bolt (under tension) acts on the disc/sleeve.
@@hobbyless4089whatever pops.
@@tg8150 I was simply correcting you "correction".
Three long steps when it just takes one short step. 😂😂😂
If there’s a faster way to replace it, without just replacing the entire part new, let me know!
This guy doesn't know wtf he's talking about
Don't forget to mention the magnetic side of the bearing goes inboard
We all been there 😅😅
@@daniellaracuente2923LOL
:)
Nice video
Thanks!
Very good
Thx!
You can use that air gun to drive the new bearing in if your careful.
Yeah, totally. I just like being super picky on stuff like this.
👏👏👏
Thx!
if you rent one of these pullers dont use powertools got charged for the tool because of this 399.99 later I have a hub puller now.
Yep. I’ve seen them be slightly arched, and knew the pneumatic gun likely was going the wrong way, or went full send when it should not have. At least you have the tool now!
Should've tried a different return store😂
I’ll try this today. Hope everything goes well.
Hope it was a success!
@@durk1980 it was painful but I was successful.
Ugh I spent all day and failed so I'm taking the tool back to rent next week cause it's 400 to rent it and it scares me the longer I hold it.... Needed sockets and my rachet broke into piece's.... Almost couldn't put anything back together...
Dang! Sorry about that. Yeah, the right tools make all the difference. That rental I used was no joke, but everything is so finicky.
Sweating cats and dogs lol
Bro, you have no idea how much that sweat drops on humid summer days! We’ve since moved from that house, and my garage faces East. Can’t tell you how excited I am to not lose weight every time I do a project in the summer.
You cannot hammer the hub off? Use a 4lb hammer just bang it out.
Well, that's possible, in theory, but you have to have it setup to accept that strike. It's hard to do. I've seen big guys take take hammers and fail at that. If you can get that to work - go for it!
You're thinking about the kind that's easy to hammer out, these are just straight circles.
I was scared of the press until I bought one and now I'm just a lil frightened by it.
Snap rings are annoying lol
Indeed!
Been 3 days and still trying to get snap ring off
@@mistacdawg6882 lol dang I never took that long😂 use a flat head or a pick to help u
@@MeliTelly Got it using 2 picks. It was very rusty and had no bend to it even after taking it out. Never been changed since 2006 and it’s 2022 lol.
Or hear me out buy a new assembly with bearing and set it up like that
Definitely an option. I liked the challenge, and it was nice to learn how to do it, but if money wasn’t an option, then I agree 💯
👍👍👍🍺🍺🍺🍺
:)
the easy way for removing the hub..
For those without a press; yes.
TIP: Just order a new Hub with the bearing and c clip because its only about 25.00. Forget about cutting off that stupid race.
Cool. Next time for sure. Thx!
8
:)
Yo no soy mecanico!; con todo respeto para todos ; yo cambie un balero de mi Honda Pilot en una hora mas o menos; y no trngo esa herramienta, pero cada quien
No hablo espanol, but according to Google, you said you’re a mechanic and you did this easily. Good job bro:)
Just buy a new knuckle lol screw all that
The thought did cross my mind. At the time this was cheaper. For real though.
*Another RUclipsr that does most of the work off camera. Smh*
Most of the work? We must be watching different videos. While I don’t just leave the camera on and simply upload the whole thing, it’s certainly enough to educate.