This man is such an inspiration dude, i’m broke down on my luck and absolutely got fleeced purchasing my first car but watching his videos i’ve been able to fix so much and stay afloat.
Wow, what an excellent video. Your camera person is so skilled at zooming in and showing the rest of us front bearing rookies how this is done properly. Thank you so much for your efforts making this video that shows in explicit detail the exact procedure for this Front Wheel drive font axle bearing replacement. Your video stands out against all others I have watched on this subject. I would have to recommend this video to anybody who has NOT done this procedure before because of the excellent content and great camera work, that leaves no part of this procedure as a grey area.👍👍
Thanks for your critique! Most places remove the complete steering knuckle and press out the hub and bearing on a press machine which people don't own.
Man i just went sand bought this hydraulic hole punch, because my hub tool screw got damaged because of continuously impacting it, this method saves my hands, my ears, my tools and my time.
Make it easier on yourself. Take the whole spindle off and while the new bearings in the freezer, heat up the spindle with a propane torch. I've never pressed in bearings, they just fell right in.
Brilliant on every level. Efficient, fast, and economical. The hydraulic kit costs 1/3 or so of a high-torque impact gun. Should be a great money maker for anyone who uses flat-rate or similar charges. Wonderful!!
Hi, now this is absolutely what I call let the tools do the work let your experience work the tool, very informative and very nicely done the way it should be, the best install I’ve ever seen on the ground or a lift, the freezer trick I learned that years ago and it works very well, excellent quality video ty so much, Bob,
Excellent video.. This is going to help us DIYers with bearing and hub removal without pain and noise.. way more efficient than impact gun. Appreciate you for being innovative and letting us know about knockout Punch driver..
Damn! That's amazing!! I wish I would have known about this before I went to replace my front wheel bearings! I used a 20 ton HF press but this seems much easier!! Thanks!!
Thanks! Here's what amazed me. I reached out to some parts manufacturers about making a kit with a hydraulic pump attachment. No one expressed an interested. Also, using a stand up press can be difficult without having a hub and bearing press kit. Getting that steering knuckle perpendicular to the press can be a bear.
I just did my front wheel bearing two days ago. I purchased a 20 ton press (got a real good deal), but it was very hard to support the knuckle. I ended up renting the tool from O'Reilly for $400. I'm still keeping the press, but I will also buy these two devices.
Try and level some steering knuckles for a 20 ton shop press. If not secure you can damage the knuckle during removal or cockeye the bearing during installation very easily. This process greatly eliminates those damaging possibilities during removal and installation.
@@hardlymovingpro it is an excellent tool for bearings and bushings with metal outer sleeve. if you buy a bolt that has the same threads that go into the piston. then you can drill through it and tap the hole. now you can use smaller diameter bolt to go through bushings.
I just spent weekend with my teen son using breaker bar and it took forever. Are the threads for the bearing tool common standard with the punch tool, this was super clever, thank you so much for this, I’m encouraged continue with the other bearings that need replacement.
I see it looks to me the tool can also use my greenlee knockout punch in the same form. I just got to get the proper size adaptors. Thanks for the tip!
Hi there, changing the wheel bearing by using a knockout pouch is a small way of thinking. Great video and thank you for sharing your genesis thinking. The size of the hydraulic pouch threads is M20-1.50mm. The wheel bearing set large bolt is 3/4"-16, thread pitch That’s a little too small to work correctly without damaging the bolt or hydraulic pouch threads.
Thanks for watching! The wheel bearing (large bolt) is called a forcing screw. Believe if you go to your local machine shop they can provide you a non headed screw with the correct thread pitch. You can then screw on a nut on each end giving you more adjustment flexibility when attached to the press bearing adapter plates.
Sorry to question your tool recommendations. But the astro kit has a 7/8-14 bolt and the punch kit has a 3/4-16 thread. It wont work unless you buy a 3/4-16 threaded rod n nut or buy the other kits other than the astro kit.
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Ethan Dax Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
This is best idea in RUclips. What the size and thread of the bolt in hydraulic knockout punch? I have the Astro Bearing Pressing kit. I'd like to use it to remove hub wheel in a 4WD 2004 Tundra. Before, I buy the kit from HF, I'd to know if I need a longer bolt. Thanks.
Is it possible to overdo the process of pushing in the new bearing with the hydraulic press? Do i need to have a comprehensive understanding of where the bearing should be seated or can i just push it in until it feels right/can’t go in any further?
I’m curious to know where you got the long hex bolt from? I know it didn’t come with the hydraulic kit because I have the exact same kit and the bolt that comes with the hydraulic kit is a 3/4 inch 5 inch long stud bolt. I purchased the exact same hydraulic kit from Harbor Freight and the 3/4 stud bolt that comes with it is way too short to do what you did and the hex bolt that comes with the bearing adapter kit is a lot larger than 3/4 which is required to use the hydraulic kit. Thanks.
I used and cross purposed the bolt from the Hub Bearing Removal Tool kit (from the red kit in the picture). The threads from that long service bolt matches the thread pattern in the hydraulic press tool.
At 3:00 where did you get the threaded bolt that fits the hydraulic punch kit. The one that came with my hydraulic punch kit is short. The bolt from my bearing press kit is long enough but a courser thread than my hydraulic cylinder .it's a fine thread.
The "threaded bolt" or forcing screw came from the Hub and Bearing kit. The one I bought had a forcing screw with a thread pattern that matched the hydraulic pump. Try a local machine shop and see if they can order or make you one.
Great video! I am deciding whether to do this job myself. You made it look so easy. Can you give me a list of all the tools that you used? I missed the part about removing the outer bearing race. Was this not necessary?
List of parts should be in the "show more" text description of this video. Don't understand your question. This whole purpose of the video is to show you how to remove the outer bearing race from the steering knuckle.
Good stuff. What do you think about putting the bearing just in the refrigerator? I'm worried that when the frozen condensation melts after the bearing is installed it will be permanently rusted in place.
Wow... you made it look so easy. Xan you help me solve my problem? I changed my bearing and hub but now I have a louder whirling sound at around 40 mph. I used to only have a humming sound barely noticeable. How can I troubleshoot my repair?
Can you tell me the model number on both the hydraulic pump and bearing press kit. I ordered the press kit you have listed ( Blue) but the hydraulic pump I have looks to be the same company the forcing bolt in the press kit is a different size. The pliers u recommended worked great. Thanks again
I recommend you go to a local Harbor Freight near you with the bearing press kit's forcing screw. Then see if the forcing screw thread pattern matches the threads in the punch kit hydraulic adapter. Another thing you can do is replace the short forcing screw in the punch kit with one that's the same length in your bearing press kit. Go to your local machine shop and see if they can help you out finding a supplier.
@@hardlymovingpro I purchased the hydraulic pump 56411 from Harbor Freight and the press kit from your list of tools. I will check around for a local shop. Was looking to purchase the hydraulic pump you suggested if it will work with the blue press kit you suggested. Do you know if that hydraulic pump works with the blue press suggested?
Yes. What you call the "draw bar" is commonly referred to as the "forcing screw". You may have to find a replacement forcing screw if the thread pattern on the screw doesn't match the hydraulic pump. A machine shop should be able to help you out if needed.
Looks like the screw from the bearing puller fitted the hole in the punch kit. Otherwise you would of had to root around for a suitable screw that fit the thread on the punch kit.
How do you when to stop pumping it in ??? Would it be easier to put the back o ring/lip and push it in front the front till it hit the o ring well till you be able to feel the resistance that it is hitting it ?
I've found visual inspection on the progress of the bearing movement to be the easiest. Also, with the bearing being frozen, it didn't take much pressure effort to pump the new bearing in the steering knuckle until I felt the back pressure indicating the bearing has reached the lip of the steering knuckle.
What you didn't mention is that if you have a abs sensor the bearing needs to go in a certain direction. The magnetic side needs to go in to where the abs sensor is. If you don't do it that way you will be pissed off cause you need to buy another bearing and start over.
The forcing screw and bearing puller are provided as 1 kit. The length is consistent with most hub and bearing kits. The thread pattern can differ and have no way telling you.
Absolutely outstanding! Very creative! May I ask.....the bearing kit says the bolt that comes with it is 7/8" grade 8. I'd like to get that hydraulic kit you used, (and included a link for).....but it's obviously very important that the bolt in my kit fits this particular hydraulic kit's piston. Can you please tell me the exact size of the bolt that fit this hydraulic kit? Is it really a 7/8" bolt, with what? SAE or metric threads?
I have the same question. I have the Pittsburgh punch kit and the ram uses a 3/4 -16 unf fine thread forcing bolt. The wheel bearing set you have is different than the one you have a link to in Amazon and not just because the case is different. I need to get the wheel bearing replacement set that has that particular size forcing bolt. Where did you get your kit and can you please give us the link or description of your set as it Cleary has a bolt that threads into your Pittsburgh ram... any and as much info as you can provide would be much appreciated. Thank you!!!!!!
Is this the same process for the rx330? The part looks identical for the Camry from years 99-06 maybe even beyond that from what I can tell in pictures at least.
@@hardlymovingpro Are the bearings for the 4cyl and 6cyl Camry different? From what I’ve read the bearings should be the same for camrys from 04-09 and then many after that should also have the same bearing and hub as the rx330. Only asking because Someone near me is selling a set for cheap and they bought it for on 06 Camry but idk yet if it was 4 or 6cyl variant
Sorry one more question. Just How much torque you think I’ll need to pull a bearing? My ryobi p262 is a beast 500 easy probably get 600 lbs/ft if I jam on it at high for 15 seconds with a full 6ah pack. Dropped the thing in a bucket of atf during the engine swap and it didn’t skip a beat! (Have seen a Milwaukee dunked in water while spinning so I wasn’t too surprised) but I’m wondering if I need something that gets into the 800-1000 range?
Can a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side cause my breaks to fail? Master cylinder was empty after this occured but no signs of leakage from any of the lines? Perhaps Master Cylinder inner seal failure, or it all drained into the brake booster? Brakes are fine when engine isn’t running, but they are soft and go to the floor when engine is running. Have to slam on them to get them to respond minimally if at all. This happened after jacking the car up on the driver’s side to tighten my lug nuts as I kept hearing a screeching sound that I now realize was a symptom of faulty wheel bearing
The "threaded bolt" is commonly referred to as a "forcing screw". Just take the screw out of the kit, bring it to the shop selling the hydraulic punch kit and see if the screw threads into the punch adapter.
Bought this pump from Amazon from the link idk why mine is different my press head doesn’t unscrew from the hose it’s one piece and the box is a metal one with styrofoam inside will buy this same one from harbor freight
No ... Not at all. Seems like all these forcing screws in kits are of consistent diameter and thread pattern along with the hydraulic cylinders that accepts them.
Hey man i really appreciate you showing this video. I have tried to communicate with almost 20 people selling the fwd hub bearing replacement kit and not 1 could either tell me the size and thread pitch of the main large forcing bolt that you show threading into the Pittsburgh hydraulic ram... could you please send me a link or anything that would guide me to the right kit that will work with the Pittsburgh set. Thank you very much in advance and i hope you can help me out!👊
I know the specs of the bolt needed and yours has it. I need a new bearing replacement kit as well so do you mind giving me the info of yours and where to buy it? I have the Pittsburgh hole punch kit and now I just need the other kit to replicate what you have. I would greatly appreciate the info! 🙏Thank you in advance..
Hey buddy did you get my last message where did you get your bearing replacement kit and if you happen to have a link or a way for me to locate it I would really appreciate it. Thank you. Just let me know if you can or not 🙏
My long forcing screw from the press kit won’t screw into the hydraulic puller. Did u find another screw for this?Plus my cup stuck on the outside from my impact gun any ideas on how to get it off
Yes. I've learned that the thread pattern on some of these press kits won't match. You have to go to harbor freight tools where they have both kits to verify a match. Try light taps with a hammer to get off the cup.
Thanks! Nope ... no tool rentals on both the bearing press adapter kit and hydraulic pump. The press adapter kit usually goes for around $70 and the hydraulic pump comes in a knockout pump kit for around $100. See the "show more" text description of this video for more details.
I need to purchase the hydraulic pump it'll make it a lot easier for me being mobile to press out bearings especially on front wheel drive vehicles that do not have a hub assembly
I cross purposed from a hydraulic knockout punch driver tool kit. They're used to cut / punch out large round holes in sheet metal. I provided a link to the kit in this video's description.
If you're going to use your old hub, here's the video showing how to remove the stuck inner race: ruclips.net/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/видео.htmlsi=_0SgQm8MBlOq4Len
So I was just watching a video about this expensive hub bearing remover and it looks just like the convo you are using to remove the bearing only difference is that their has different pullers and the hydraulic puller is automatic. I wonder if there’s a way to turn your Pittsburg puller into automatic just to do the job faster
When you mean automatic, something that replaces the hand pump with a compressed air setup? If so, it's not worth the expense for the little amount of time and effort that's saved. Think about it ... Around $200 for both the bearing adapter kit and the knockout punch kit. These fancier kits (made in Germany) run almost $2,000! I just wanted something to substitute and save my electric impact driver from pre-mature wear out.
@@hardlymovingpro and that’s why you are the guy I came for answer .. you are smart for the combination you used in the video . And yeah I didn’t man I figured their kits would be expensive but not to that extent which it’s crazy
@@wranefis Hey ... thanks for your comments and support! You'll like the next video. It's an engine swap on a 2005 Hyundai Sonata. Got a $200 donor engine from a local salvage yard. Customer was quoted $6,000 to replace both the engine AND the transmission. Total rip off!
The bolt on the press looks too short to function here - I see you using the bolt on the bearing puller set which just happens to be of the same size and thread pattern?
@@hardlymovingpro I bought the press but the threads were 20mm by 1.5, which does not match the bearing kit forcing screw, so I ordered another screw. The new screw and three nuts were almost $50, but I figure I can use it whenever once I receive all the pieces I have on order. The new screw is 250mm, 9.84 inches, which may be long enough for the hub pulling as well as the bearing pulling out and in.
the link for the "Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Puller Kit" (comes in a blue container) has the incorrect size and thread for the harbor freight press so that slide bolt cant be used. Can you give us the correct puller kit with the correct slide bolt please?
What I did was take the forcing screw (puller bolt) with me to Harbor Freight to see if the thread pattern of the bolt matched the thread pattern with the hydraulic adapter. I have 2 wheel bearing replacement kits and the thread pattern on the forcing screws are the same. You must have bought a puller kit with a non standard (should be 3/4") forcing screw size.
Was on sale at Harbor Freight for under $100. Buying the 15 ton pump would have made the job go a little bit easier I think. Plenty of these types of pumps on Amazon.
Hey, your videos are great! I purchased the Orion kit from Amazon and the Pittsburg pump kit. The treads on the Orion kit are different than the one on the pump. Did you have to purchase another bolt to make this work? If so, where did you get it?
Nope. I first went to the Harbor Freight to see if the force screw bolt in the Hub Bearing Adapter kit matched the threads in the punch kit ... which it did.
you will probably need to find a grade 8 bolt to fit the hydraulic pump assembly.......try to get fine threads if possible and it will last longer.....
At the 1:33 time mark, I pulled the wheel hub from the bearing's inner race. There are two inner races. One is stuck the the shaft of the hub after the hub has been pulled, and the other remains with the wheel bearing in the steering knuckle. When the wheel bearing is pressed out of the steering knuckle via the hydraulic press, the other half of the inner race will come out with it.
@@canuckfixit7722 yeah i also notice it, in most videos everyone skips that part, they dont show it in video how to remove it and all of the sudden they have the hub ready to install
I am having great difficulty in pulling the hub off the cv axle. I have a 5ton hydr bearing puller with 3 point attatchment on backside of hub flange. I have full tension on puller and have applied heat tapping all around with hammer. Still no give. 2012 kia soul. Sure could use some advise, thank you anyone?
@@hardlymovingpro Yes I had already done every step but I finally found a slide hammer to rent from oreillys and got it to pop. Man I hope the next one goes easier on me!
Kit Extrator do Adaptador do Rolamento da Roda Dianteira. Use um tradutor de idiomas online e clique na descrição deste vídeo para ver as ferramentas que usei.
This man is such an inspiration dude, i’m broke down on my luck and absolutely got fleeced purchasing my first car but watching his videos i’ve been able to fix so much and stay afloat.
Good for you!
Wow, what an excellent video. Your camera person is so skilled at zooming in and showing the rest of us front bearing rookies how this is done properly. Thank you so much for your efforts making this video that shows in explicit detail the exact procedure for this Front Wheel drive font axle bearing replacement. Your video stands out against all others I have watched on this subject. I would have to recommend this video to anybody who has NOT done this procedure before because of the excellent content and great camera work, that leaves no part of this procedure as a grey area.👍👍
Thanks for your critique! Most places remove the complete steering knuckle and press out the hub and bearing on a press machine which people don't own.
Wow!!! Most Creative manner to use a piece of equipment in a "Thinking Outside The Box" Way!! I Am Truly Impressed!! Great Job!!!!
Glad you liked it and thanks for the visit!
Nicely done!
This method is much more forgiven for your eardrums from not having all that banging noise.
Thanks! Plus you won't wear out your electric impact gun!
Man i just went sand bought this hydraulic hole punch, because my hub tool screw got damaged because of continuously impacting it, this method saves my hands, my ears, my tools and my time.
You said it my brother!
This is genius; I've been working hard unnecessarily pressing bearings in and out manually. Thanks for an awesome install!!
Thanks! Work smarter not harder!
Make it easier on yourself. Take the whole spindle off and while the new bearings in the freezer, heat up the spindle with a propane torch. I've never pressed in bearings, they just fell right in.
Brilliant on every level. Efficient, fast, and economical. The hydraulic kit costs 1/3 or so of a high-torque impact gun. Should be a great money maker for anyone who uses flat-rate or similar charges. Wonderful!!
Thanks! I also focused on off site portability and utilize the power features of a hydraulic shop press while keeping the steering knuckle on the car.
Wow, you are a thinking man. I have a 1998 Camry which I will never sell and this will help keep it alive.
Right on!
Hi, now this is absolutely what I call let the tools do the work let your experience work the tool, very informative and very nicely done the way it should be, the best install I’ve ever seen on the ground or a lift, the freezer trick I learned that years ago and it works very well, excellent quality video ty so much, Bob,
Glad it was helpful! Thanks!
@@hardlymovingpro always a pleasure not many people take pride in their work anymore like we do, just my opinion,
Pretty cool. I think I might coat the bearing in grease before freezing to curb condensation directly onto the metal, though.
It'll all evaporate.
Excellent video.. This is going to help us DIYers with bearing and hub removal without pain and noise.. way more efficient than impact gun. Appreciate you for being innovative and letting us know about knockout Punch driver..
Thanks for sharing!
I had the same idea doing the same thing. Now I don’t have to think on how to do it. You already figured it out.
There's a German tool company that sells a kit for close to $2,000 that does the same thing. That's where I got the idea.
Damn! That's amazing!! I wish I would have known about this before I went to replace my front wheel bearings! I used a 20 ton HF press but this seems much easier!! Thanks!!
Thanks! Here's what amazed me. I reached out to some parts manufacturers about making a kit with a hydraulic pump attachment. No one expressed an interested. Also, using a stand up press can be difficult without having a hub and bearing press kit. Getting that steering knuckle perpendicular to the press can be a bear.
@@hardlymovingpro . Yep. It was real challenge doing this for the first time on a press. Great idea man! Cheers!
You bet!
I just did my front wheel bearing two days ago. I purchased a 20 ton press (got a real good deal), but it was very hard to support the knuckle. I ended up renting the tool from O'Reilly for $400. I'm still keeping the press, but I will also buy these two devices.
Try and level some steering knuckles for a 20 ton shop press. If not secure you can damage the knuckle during removal or cockeye the bearing during installation very easily. This process greatly eliminates those damaging possibilities during removal and installation.
You're correct. You need more than a shop press to properly service pressed on bearings.
Also!! Sir!! You Most Differently Should have more subscribers on this one!! Outstanding!!!
Thank you so much 😀
i bought my 15t hole puncher over 10 years ago for this same reasons. i have changed hundreds of bearings with it.
Good for you and thanks for sharing!
@@hardlymovingpro it is an excellent tool for bearings and bushings with metal outer sleeve. if you buy a bolt that has the same threads that go into the piston. then you can drill through it and tap the hole. now you can use smaller diameter bolt to go through bushings.
You should package bearing puller sleeve and plates with the pump and sell them as a kit!!!!! Money in the pockets!!! Shark tank!!!!
I did reach out to a few parts manufacturers about the idea but got no feedback or interest. Go figure.
I just spent weekend with my teen son using breaker bar and it took forever. Are the threads for the bearing tool common standard with the punch tool, this was super clever, thank you so much for this, I’m encouraged continue with the other bearings that need replacement.
Some bearing press kit's forcing screw have different thread patterns. A local machine shop could make you straight bar forcing screw.
I see it looks to me the tool can also use my greenlee knockout punch in the same form. I just got to get the proper size adaptors. Thanks for the tip!
You bet!
Hi there, changing the wheel bearing by using a knockout pouch is a small way of thinking.
Great video and thank you for sharing your genesis thinking.
The size of the hydraulic pouch threads is M20-1.50mm. The wheel bearing set large bolt is 3/4"-16, thread pitch That’s a little too small to work correctly without damaging the bolt or hydraulic pouch threads.
Thanks for watching! The wheel bearing (large bolt) is called a forcing screw. Believe if you go to your local machine shop they can provide you a non headed screw with the correct thread pitch. You can then screw on a nut on each end giving you more adjustment flexibility when attached to the press bearing adapter plates.
That’s a good idea putting the new bearing in the freezer. 👍
Definitely makes the squeeze into the knuckle happen with less pressure
Props for trying something new!
Sorry to question your tool recommendations. But the astro kit has a 7/8-14 bolt and the punch kit has a 3/4-16 thread. It wont work unless you buy a 3/4-16 threaded rod n nut or buy the other kits other than the astro kit.
Good to know and thanks for sharing!
The hydraulic pump make it a breeze 👍
I know. And I haven't seen ANYONE use this technique! It's simple.
This is a perfect well done job. It is so satisfying to watch you dping it
Glad you enjoy it!
sorry to be off topic but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my account password. I appreciate any tips you can give me!
@Ethan Dax Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and Im in the hacking process atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Ethan Dax it worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my account!
@Darius Ricky You are welcome :D
Congratulations it a great idea use the hidraulic punch 👍
Thanks. Helps to stop wear on my impact driver.
I never thought of using an electrical knockout set on bearings,... I got an old Greenlee around somewhere...
It works great!
@@hardlymovingpro I bet it works great on bushings too....
@@WizzRacing That's a different animal needing unique adapters
This is best idea in RUclips. What the size and thread of the bolt in hydraulic knockout punch? I have the Astro Bearing Pressing kit. I'd like to use it to remove hub wheel in a 4WD 2004 Tundra. Before, I buy the kit from HF, I'd to know if I need a longer bolt. Thanks.
I went to harbor freight and the thread pattern in the punch kit's hydraulic adapter matched my press kit forcing screw.
@@hardlymovingpro Thanks. I hate to bother you. One more question, who makes your slide hammer kit?
Is it possible to overdo the process of pushing in the new bearing with the hydraulic press? Do i need to have a comprehensive understanding of where the bearing should be seated or can i just push it in until it feels right/can’t go in any further?
When the snap ring grove is visable, you've pressed it in far enough.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you 🙏
@@hardlymovingpro do you offer 1 on 1 consultations? I’d be willing to pay for your expertise of course
@@Maestro-gh2ei send email to hardlymoving@gmail.com
I’m curious to know where you got the long hex bolt from? I know it didn’t come with the hydraulic kit because I have the exact same kit and the bolt that comes with the hydraulic kit is a 3/4 inch 5 inch long stud bolt. I purchased the exact same hydraulic kit from Harbor Freight and the 3/4 stud bolt that comes with it is way too short to do what you did and the hex bolt that comes with the bearing adapter kit is a lot larger than 3/4 which is required to use the hydraulic kit. Thanks.
I used and cross purposed the bolt from the Hub Bearing Removal Tool kit (from the red kit in the picture). The threads from that long service bolt matches the thread pattern in the hydraulic press tool.
Good work 👍
Thanks! Glad you like it.
Thank you for uploading a nice video. More power💪🇺🇸
Glad you enjoyed it!
At 3:00 where did you get the threaded bolt that fits the hydraulic punch kit. The one that came with my hydraulic punch kit is short. The bolt from my bearing press kit is long enough but a courser thread than my hydraulic cylinder .it's a fine thread.
The "threaded bolt" or forcing screw came from the Hub and Bearing kit. The one I bought had a forcing screw with a thread pattern that matched the hydraulic pump. Try a local machine shop and see if they can order or make you one.
Nice! Love your videos.. Thank you sir
Glad you like them!
Great video! I am deciding whether to do this job myself. You made it look so easy. Can you give me a list of all the tools that you used? I missed the part about removing the outer bearing race. Was this not necessary?
List of parts should be in the "show more" text description of this video. Don't understand your question. This whole purpose of the video is to show you how to remove the outer bearing race from the steering knuckle.
i did the same thing you did, works perfectly 👍
Good to hear!
This is amazing. Got to get one
Cross purposing tools.
Cool, i have the 17t cylinder from Klann...highly recommended...
Thanks for sharing!
This is amazing! Thanks for sharing!
You bet!
Way to think outside the box🌞
Thanks!
Good stuff. What do you think about putting the bearing just in the refrigerator? I'm worried that when the frozen condensation melts after the bearing is installed it will be permanently rusted in place.
There won't be any rust.
Amazing video👌👌
Does taking out the steering knuckle as a unit make the job harder, or you just decided to do the job on the vehicle?
Both. Easier to maneuver the knuckle while being attached to the lower control arm. Thanks for your post!
Wow... you made it look so easy. Xan you help me solve my problem? I changed my bearing and hub but now I have a louder whirling sound at around 40 mph. I used to only have a humming sound barely noticeable. How can I troubleshoot my repair?
Hub may not be completely seated against the outer CV bearing cup. Try re-torquing the axle nut.
Thank you for your prompt response.
You bet!
Can you tell me the model number on both the hydraulic pump and bearing press kit. I ordered the press kit you have listed ( Blue) but the hydraulic pump I have looks to be the same company the forcing bolt in the press kit is a different size. The pliers u recommended worked great. Thanks again
I recommend you go to a local Harbor Freight near you with the bearing press kit's forcing screw. Then see if the forcing screw thread pattern matches the threads in the punch kit hydraulic adapter. Another thing you can do is replace the short forcing screw in the punch kit with one that's the same length in your bearing press kit. Go to your local machine shop and see if they can help you out finding a supplier.
@@hardlymovingpro I purchased the hydraulic pump 56411 from Harbor Freight and the press kit from your list of tools. I will check around for a local shop. Was looking to purchase the hydraulic pump you suggested if it will work with the blue press kit you suggested. Do you know if that hydraulic pump works with the blue press suggested?
Was the thread pitch and size of your draw bar from your other set the correct size and pitch to fit into the hydraulic pump?
Yes. What you call the "draw bar" is commonly referred to as the "forcing screw". You may have to find a replacement forcing screw if the thread pattern on the screw doesn't match the hydraulic pump. A machine shop should be able to help you out if needed.
Looks like the screw from the bearing puller fitted the hole in the punch kit. Otherwise you would of had to root around for a suitable screw that fit the thread on the punch kit.
That's correct! If the screw thread pattern doesn't match, you should be able to acquire one or have one made at a local machine shop.
How do you when to stop pumping it in ??? Would it be easier to put the back o ring/lip and push it in front the front till it hit the o ring well till you be able to feel the resistance that it is hitting it ?
I've found visual inspection on the progress of the bearing movement to be the easiest. Also, with the bearing being frozen, it didn't take much pressure effort to pump the new bearing in the steering knuckle until I felt the back pressure indicating the bearing has reached the lip of the steering knuckle.
Nice and clean job.
Thanks!
What you didn't mention is that if you have a abs sensor the bearing needs to go in a certain direction. The magnetic side needs to go in to where the abs sensor is. If you don't do it that way you will be pissed off cause you need to buy another bearing and start over.
With Honda's and BMWs yes ... Not Toyota. Toyota uses an abs ring for their sensors.
@Hardly Moving Productions I understand but always good to mention this cause it's not the same on all of these.
Hello Sir, what is the size of the forcing screw that you attached to the hydraulic puller and did it come with the bearing puller set you used?
The forcing screw and bearing puller are provided as 1 kit. The length is consistent with most hub and bearing kits. The thread pattern can differ and have no way telling you.
thank you for posting!
My pleasure!
Absolutely outstanding! Very creative! May I ask.....the bearing kit says the bolt that comes with it is 7/8" grade 8. I'd like to get that hydraulic kit you used, (and included a link for).....but it's obviously very important that the bolt in my kit fits this particular hydraulic kit's piston. Can you please tell me the exact size of the bolt that fit this hydraulic kit? Is it really a 7/8" bolt, with what? SAE or metric threads?
The hydraulic press kit was purchased at my local Harbor Freight store.
I have the same question. I have the Pittsburgh punch kit and the ram uses a 3/4 -16 unf fine thread forcing bolt. The wheel bearing set you have is different than the one you have a link to in Amazon and not just because the case is different. I need to get the wheel bearing replacement set that has that particular size forcing bolt. Where did you get your kit and can you please give us the link or description of your set as it Cleary has a bolt that threads into your Pittsburgh ram... any and as much info as you can provide would be much appreciated. Thank you!!!!!!
Yeah wonder that too
Is this the same process for the rx330? The part looks identical for the Camry from years 99-06 maybe even beyond that from what I can tell in pictures at least.
Yes but the bearing will be different
@@hardlymovingpro
Are the bearings for the 4cyl and 6cyl Camry different? From what I’ve read the bearings should be the same for camrys from 04-09 and then many after that should also have the same bearing and hub as the rx330.
Only asking because Someone near me is selling a set for cheap and they bought it for on 06 Camry but idk yet if it was 4 or 6cyl variant
Sorry one more question. Just How much torque you think I’ll need to pull a bearing? My ryobi p262 is a beast 500 easy probably get 600 lbs/ft if I jam on it at high for 15 seconds with a full 6ah pack. Dropped the thing in a bucket of atf during the engine swap and it didn’t skip a beat! (Have seen a Milwaukee dunked in water while spinning so I wasn’t too surprised) but I’m wondering if I need something that gets into the 800-1000 range?
@deeeyewhy5949 I so want that new Dewalt 3/4" 2100 ft/lbs impact for this job, not that it matters but the tool is a beast.
Beware. Pump does not always match screw threads in large bolt. Once u figure it out its magnificent.
Agreed. Good idea to bring the forcing screw when shopping for a pump to make sure it fits.
Wish I would have saw this
Would this also work with a Volvo C30? The bearing is inside the hub and must be replaced together. Remove tool has plates that go behind the hub.
Should work with minor differences.
Nice job. Cool tool.
Thanks!
So i am wondering if it wouldn't be easier to remove the whole piece take it to a shop press press the bearing and bolt it back on?
That's what I use to do. Problem was repair down time and time spent going back and forth to the machine shop.
Nicely done.
Thanks!
Can a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side cause my breaks to fail? Master cylinder was empty after this occured but no signs of leakage from any of the lines? Perhaps Master Cylinder inner seal failure, or it all drained into the brake booster?
Brakes are fine when engine isn’t running, but they are soft and go to the floor when engine is running. Have to slam on them to get them to respond minimally if at all. This happened after jacking the car up on the driver’s side to tighten my lug nuts as I kept hearing a screeching sound that I now realize was a symptom of faulty wheel bearing
You master cylinder seal is shot allowing brake fluid into the brake booster.
Did you have to buy a long fine threaded bolt because the one that came in red box kit with all the amatory was coras thread
The "threaded bolt" is commonly referred to as a "forcing screw". Just take the screw out of the kit, bring it to the shop selling the hydraulic punch kit and see if the screw threads into the punch adapter.
Bought this pump from Amazon from the link idk why mine is different my press head doesn’t unscrew from the hose it’s one piece and the box is a metal one with styrofoam inside will buy this same one from harbor freight
Thanks for sharing!
Well done!
Did you have to modify the hydraulic cylinder to fit the thread geometry of the forcing screw?
No ... Not at all. Seems like all these forcing screws in kits are of consistent diameter and thread pattern along with the hydraulic cylinders that accepts them.
That's great! Thanks for the response.
You bet!
Thanks for sharing your idea.
You bet!
How did you get the stuck inner race off of the hub? I didn’t see that part in the video
Watch this video: ruclips.net/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/видео.html
The hydraulic press got M20 1.5 thread so will it fit the 7/8 14 rod thread ?
Sorry ... Can't advise.
Hey man i really appreciate you showing this video. I have tried to communicate with almost 20 people selling the fwd hub bearing replacement kit and not 1 could either tell me the size and thread pitch of the main large forcing bolt that you show threading into the Pittsburgh hydraulic ram... could you please send me a link or anything that would guide me to the right kit that will work with the Pittsburgh set. Thank you very much in advance and i hope you can help me out!👊
Suggest you contact a local Tool & Die machine shop to get the size and pitch specs.
I know the specs of the bolt needed and yours has it. I need a new bearing replacement kit as well so do you mind giving me the info of yours and where to buy it? I have the Pittsburgh hole punch kit and now I just need the other kit to replicate what you have. I would greatly appreciate the info! 🙏Thank you in advance..
Hey buddy did you get my last message where did you get your bearing replacement kit and if you happen to have a link or a way for me to locate it I would really appreciate it. Thank you. Just let me know if you can or not 🙏
My long forcing screw from the press kit won’t screw into the hydraulic puller. Did u find another screw for this?Plus my cup stuck on the outside from my impact gun any ideas on how to get it off
Yes. I've learned that the thread pattern on some of these press kits won't match. You have to go to harbor freight tools where they have both kits to verify a match. Try light taps with a hammer to get off the cup.
WOW!! Does autozone or O'Reillys part stores have them to rent out the hydraulic pump? Great work!!!
Thanks! Nope ... no tool rentals on both the bearing press adapter kit and hydraulic pump. The press adapter kit usually goes for around $70 and the hydraulic pump comes in a knockout pump kit for around $100. See the "show more" text description of this video for more details.
Excellent tool !!
It sure is!
@@hardlymovingpro Happy Thanksgiving !! Blessings
Thanks!
Would the 10 ton tool work also to press out the bearing or does it have to be the 15 ton tool ?
10 ton should work.
I need to purchase the hydraulic pump it'll make it a lot easier for me being mobile to press out bearings especially on front wheel drive vehicles that do not have a hub assembly
Correct ... and more importantly, not wear out your impact driver / gun.
Very true thanks for the video
Will it work if you don't put the bearing in the freezer over night or will it make it a lil bit harder
Great , where can we buy this tools ?
Check this video's description
where did you get the hydraulic press from?
I cross purposed from a hydraulic knockout punch driver tool kit. They're used to cut / punch out large round holes in sheet metal. I provided a link to the kit in this video's description.
Hi, where can i get that press tool? What name can i look for?
Tool details are in this video's text description.
How did you remove that piece of old bearing from the wheel hub? You did not show that part
If you're going to use your old hub, here's the video showing how to remove the stuck inner race: ruclips.net/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/видео.htmlsi=_0SgQm8MBlOq4Len
@@hardlymovingpro thank you so much
Thanks it was well explained
Glad it helped!
So I was just watching a video about this expensive hub bearing remover and it looks just like the convo you are using to remove the bearing only difference is that their has different pullers and the hydraulic puller is automatic. I wonder if there’s a way to turn your Pittsburg puller into automatic just to do the job faster
When you mean automatic, something that replaces the hand pump with a compressed air setup? If so, it's not worth the expense for the little amount of time and effort that's saved. Think about it ... Around $200 for both the bearing adapter kit and the knockout punch kit. These fancier kits (made in Germany) run almost $2,000! I just wanted something to substitute and save my electric impact driver from pre-mature wear out.
@@hardlymovingpro and that’s why you are the guy I came for answer .. you are smart for the combination you used in the video . And yeah I didn’t man I figured their kits would be expensive but not to that extent which it’s crazy
@@wranefis Hey ... thanks for your comments and support! You'll like the next video. It's an engine swap on a 2005 Hyundai Sonata. Got a $200 donor engine from a local salvage yard. Customer was quoted $6,000 to replace both the engine AND the transmission. Total rip off!
@@hardlymovingpro won’t miss it man I’m a new subscriber
The bolt on the press looks too short to function here - I see you using the bolt on the bearing puller set which just happens to be of the same size and thread pattern?
Yes ... you are correct.
@@hardlymovingpro I bought the press but the threads were 20mm by 1.5, which does not match the bearing kit forcing screw, so I ordered another screw. The new screw and three nuts were almost $50, but I figure I can use it whenever once I receive all the pieces I have on order. The new screw is 250mm, 9.84 inches, which may be long enough for the hub pulling as well as the bearing pulling out and in.
Hello my friend
Where did you get the bolt from ?
Thanks
I used the bolt (also called a forcing screw) from the bearing adapter kit. The bolt threads matched the hydraulic press tool.
from where i can get one of this portable press kit please ??
Tool links provided in this video's description area.
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
Hey boss, is it required to do a front wheel alignment after this type of job?
Most of the time ... No. If there's steering wheel pull to one side while driving, then yes.
Wonder how it would be on a stuck bearing race
10 tons of pressure is a lot of force coming out of that hydraulic pump.
the link for the "Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Puller Kit" (comes in a blue container) has the incorrect size and thread for the harbor freight press so that slide bolt cant be used. Can you give us the correct puller kit with the correct slide bolt please?
What I did was take the forcing screw (puller bolt) with me to Harbor Freight to see if the thread pattern of the bolt matched the thread pattern with the hydraulic adapter. I have 2 wheel bearing replacement kits and the thread pattern on the forcing screws are the same. You must have bought a puller kit with a non standard (should be 3/4") forcing screw size.
@@hardlymovingpro Can you give me the the kits number w the correct slide bot size because the in the link you gave us does not fit at all
If you haven't figured it out get the hydraulic hole puncher and front wheel drive bearing kit both made by Pittsburgh at harbor freight.
Do you feel 10t is enough? I see there is also 15t version. Have you been in situation where 10t is not enough?
10t has worked for me. But if 15t is available, why not.
Great video as always, where did you buy the pump from?
Was on sale at Harbor Freight for under $100. Buying the 15 ton pump would have made the job go a little bit easier I think. Plenty of these types of pumps on Amazon.
Hey, your videos are great! I purchased the Orion kit from Amazon and the Pittsburg pump kit. The treads on the Orion kit are different than the one on the pump. Did you have to purchase another bolt to make this work? If so, where did you get it?
Nope. I first went to the Harbor Freight to see if the force screw bolt in the Hub Bearing Adapter kit matched the threads in the punch kit ... which it did.
you will probably need to find a grade 8 bolt to fit the hydraulic pump assembly.......try to get fine threads if possible and it will last longer.....
@@gregallen9065 I think the pump is threaded. Would have to get threads to match the pump.
@@hardlymovingpro I didn't see anything in your list you used from Harbor Freight. What tool did you use from them?
@@Chevy3278 harbor freight sheet metal punch kit. There's two kits with different pumps for higher/lower pressures.
Are you able to remove the hub with the hydraulic
Nope. That's a different procedure. Here's the link on how to do it: ruclips.net/video/I4P3T-cb7rg/видео.html
Make sure the axel is snapped in into the transmission all the way or your wheels will rotate hard when in park.
Absolutely!
How many more times have you used this technique? What's the success rate? The forcing screw being the same thread pitch was that just a coincidence?
3X. 100%. Thread pitch was coincidence. Perhaps industry standard tool size.
@@hardlymovingpro I see you left a link for a different tool than the one you used (from harbor freight). Any reason for that?
@@ousmanediop9113 For those who want to buy on-line instead of running to the store.
Maybe I missed it but how did you remove the old inner race from the hub? I have seen three ways to do it. What did you do?
At the 1:33 time mark, I pulled the wheel hub from the bearing's inner race. There are two inner races. One is stuck the the shaft of the hub after the hub has been pulled, and the other remains with the wheel bearing in the steering knuckle. When the wheel bearing is pressed out of the steering knuckle via the hydraulic press, the other half of the inner race will come out with it.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes, the one inner race that is stuck to the hub. Did you cut it off?
@@canuckfixit7722 yeah i also notice it, in most videos everyone skips that part, they dont show it in video how to remove it and all of the sudden they have the hub ready to install
@@soy_mariachi2425 LOL HMP's response above as to what happened at 1:33 doesn't cut it.
Hub was replaced with a new one from the hub and bearing kit.
Smooth Brother
Appreciate that!
Can it be used for ball joints?
Unfortunately not. The hydraulic screw on adapter only generates pulling force.
Practical: Cool video, however, since you only have one lower nut left. Why not just remove it then take the knuckle to a press?
I could but the purpose of the video is to show convenience and portability while avoiding big, bulky equipment.
What make is your bearing service kit and model number
Links provided in video description
The kit on the link looks different from the one you have on your video.
Will the bolt from the kit on the link screw on to the hydraulic punch
Will the Maddox kit from Harbor freight work with the hydraulic punch tool
Check the fit at the store?
I am having great difficulty in pulling the hub off the cv axle. I have a 5ton hydr bearing puller with 3 point attatchment on backside of hub flange. I have full tension on puller and have applied heat tapping all around with hammer. Still no give. 2012 kia soul. Sure could use some advise, thank you anyone?
Did you first release the tension where the cv axle slides into the inner splines of the hub? If not, release that tension first.
@@hardlymovingpro Yes I had already done every step but I finally found a slide hammer to rent from oreillys and got it to pop. Man I hope the next one goes easier on me!
@@hardlymovingpro It was that tension that I was trying to release! Hehe.
@@kjenkins8648 Well...you got er done!
Nice! Where did you buy the hydraulic pump from?
Thanks! On sale at Harbor Freight for around $90. It's called something like "Hydraulic knockout punch kit".
@@hardlymovingpro thanks appreciate it.
You bet!
Did you freeze the bearing
Yes. Makes the install easier.
Boa noite manda para mim o nome dessa ferramenta aí em português
Kit Extrator do Adaptador do Rolamento da Roda Dianteira. Use um tradutor de idiomas online e clique na descrição deste vídeo para ver as ferramentas que usei.
Very nice, there are tools that do this specifically but you’re looking at thousands of dollars
That's right! Thousands of dollars! I got the idea to cross purpose my tools based on a German automotive tool kit.