OTC hub grappler..this product did wonders on seized bearing. I had tried same methods you tried without positive outcome until I borrowed my friends grappler it got it out.
Try a pneumatic hammer on the ridge of the cv shaft. It worked once for me with the device on it. Hitting it with the hammer where you did would only damage the tool.
i would like to let you guys know of a sure way to get these axle stubs out. sds drill 1600 - 2000w you cut a drill and taper it a bit to fit in the hole in the axle. turn the knob on the drill so it only hammers. do not use penetrating fluid, it may hamper the rust dust from flowing out of the splines. how you must stand there like a tool for however long it takes for the vibration to work the rust out of there. but it will get loose eventually and probably even without damaging the end of the axle if you are going to reuse it. i have had to hammer away for close to an hour on the worst stuck cases but they will come out. you can also use air hammers. more powerful ones are not the key fast acting small ones seem to work better if the axle stub is really rusted in the hub.
Ive used these to separate the steel hubs from the aluminum knuckles on an audi a4. They corroded together and became one item. Nothing would free it, but the sds chisel made short and satisfying work of it.
I have a similar puller that's the 20 ton model. You should never hit on the tool anywhere. The correct way to use it is to load up the hydraulic cylinder then smack the hub unit to provide the shock.
I tried my high output Snap-on one but no luck. I agree the jack hammer is the trick. My brother has an 11 Duramax and that's what he used on his axle. Need lots of air pressure and volume though.
I am trying to do the same to remove a flange from a boat propeller shaft, first attempt with a different extractor, torch and a big spanner no results. I am thinking now to try with a hydraulic one. The thing is, if you keep turning the screw and nothing moves, there must be something else deforming
That's what I did end up doing. Fortunately the CV shaft can be pulled right through the knuckle opening for the wheel bearing. I did eventually get it apart with another screw for this tool. I did a later video on that.
I thought that hydraulics meant that fluid was involved somehow; like a jack with fluid. surely if it keeps turning something would have to be moving otherwise the handle would not turn anymore.Is it possible that it has a circlip that needs to be removed first?
The screw pushes on a small hydraulic piston that pushes on the fluid. The seals are not perfect and it was leaking internally. I took it apart and replaced the hydraulic oil with 75w90 gear oil. Works a bit better but the solid screw I bought later works much better than the hydraulic system. Here's that video.ruclips.net/video/-Ng3OPn_b4I/видео.html
How you siad if you could hit it from behind it would be good so maybe if they use a big bolt for the centre which slide into the centre of the puller before screwing hydraulic press on so that when it's tight you can still hit it from the back and it would help move it cause it will still be able to slide forward when hit from behind maybe that might help...
As long as it's not your bowels thats moving, don't worry! just an old joke that me and the guys used to make years ago when working on cars HA HA !!!!!!!
Oh I am a repair shop. Have used it a couple times now. Just ordered a mechanical forcing screw. I'm sure that will work as you can put pressure then hit it with a BIG hammer...
don't hit your tool man it ain't going nowhere on threads lol try hitting or prying the part out while pressed or just replace everything you have out mind's well at this point
He wasn't hitting the tool to cause the tool to move, he was hitting the tool to send a shock wave through it to try to cause the axle to pop free while it was under the tremendous pressure of the hydraulic tool.
This is the descision I have to make tomorrow : buy the tooling with no guarantee of results or buy new parts have guarantee . Shame my parts Are 4 x the cost of tooling . I’m looking at the Toledo 10t hydraulic hub puller , I think it has the ability to shock it also .
OTC hub grappler..this product did wonders on seized bearing. I had tried same methods you tried without positive outcome until I borrowed my friends grappler it got it out.
Try a pneumatic hammer on the ridge of the cv shaft. It worked once for me with the device on it.
Hitting it with the hammer where you did would only damage the tool.
i would like to let you guys know of a sure way to get these axle stubs out. sds drill 1600 - 2000w you cut a drill and taper it a bit to fit in the hole in the axle. turn the knob on the drill so it only hammers. do not use penetrating fluid, it may hamper the rust dust from flowing out of the splines. how you must stand there like a tool for however long it takes for the vibration to work the rust out of there. but it will get loose eventually and probably even without damaging the end of the axle if you are going to reuse it. i have had to hammer away for close to an hour on the worst stuck cases but they will come out. you can also use air hammers. more powerful ones are not the key fast acting small ones seem to work better if the axle stub is really rusted in the hub.
Ok that may be true maybe I'll give it a try next time.
Ive used these to separate the steel hubs from the aluminum knuckles on an audi a4. They corroded together and became one item. Nothing would free it, but the sds chisel made short and satisfying work of it.
I have a similar puller that's the 20 ton model. You should never hit on the tool anywhere. The correct way to use it is to load up the hydraulic cylinder then smack the hub unit to provide the shock.
I used a jack hammer and I was surprised how well it worked. I as well was at witts end. Jackhammer baby.
I tried my high output Snap-on one but no luck. I agree the jack hammer is the trick. My brother has an 11 Duramax and that's what he used on his axle. Need lots of air pressure and volume though.
I am trying to do the same to remove a flange from a boat propeller shaft, first attempt with a different extractor, torch and a big spanner no results. I am thinking now to try with a hydraulic one. The thing is, if you keep turning the screw and nothing moves, there must be something else deforming
If you got the cv joint out and Wheel Bearing just replace both instead of trying to get them apart….👍
That's what I did end up doing. Fortunately the CV shaft can be pulled right through the knuckle opening for the wheel bearing. I did eventually get it apart with another screw for this tool. I did a later video on that.
@@PhillipBailey I’ll definitely check out the video thanks
I thought that hydraulics meant that fluid was involved somehow; like a jack with fluid. surely if it keeps turning something would have to be moving otherwise the handle would not turn anymore.Is it possible that it has a circlip that needs to be removed first?
The screw pushes on a small hydraulic piston that pushes on the fluid. The seals are not perfect and it was leaking internally. I took it apart and replaced the hydraulic oil with 75w90 gear oil. Works a bit better but the solid screw I bought later works much better than the hydraulic system. Here's that video.ruclips.net/video/-Ng3OPn_b4I/видео.html
Why would something like that come with a small useless handle
If the press doesn't do it, what else will?
the mechanical forcing screw worked better than the hydraulic design.
Hey got an idea to improve the tool...
The mechanical forcing screw is a huge improvement but make kit big enought the fit truck hubs. 5 6 7 and 8 lug.
How you siad if you could hit it from behind it would be good so maybe if they use a big bolt for the centre which slide into the centre of the puller before screwing hydraulic press on so that when it's tight you can still hit it from the back and it would help move it cause it will still be able to slide forward when hit from behind maybe that might help...
Did you read the enclosed instructions?
Honestly probably not...
Had one stuck in a Hyundai, a 50 ton press and heat couldn't remove it. A whole nuckle Assembly
A santa fae right??
@@MsRustynuts rust belt
I had to cut my hub with a torch....then pressed it out..dude u tried , let us know how u finally get it out..
Here's how I got it out. Highly recommend this...ruclips.net/video/-Ng3OPn_b4I/видео.html
Where did you bought it? I want one looks safer than the slide hammer
Beat on the hub with an air hammer while while the press is under full pressure
As long as it's not your bowels thats moving, don't worry! just an old joke that me and the guys used to make years ago when working on cars HA HA !!!!!!!
Easier to just buy new hub and halfshaft
does this hub bearing assembly have a snap ring if so maybe you didn't take it out lol
No snap ring it's a hub and bearing assembly. The problem is the axle shaft splines rust into the hub. I did eventually get it separated.
How ? !
@@martinlutherbling424 I used the same tool with an additional force screw. Here is the video...ruclips.net/video/-Ng3OPn_b4I/видео.html
Can I get that tool st HF?
You need the 1000,000 lb press lol
Я думал, что только российские механики борются с ржавыми агрегатами.
For what you paid for that tool you should just bought the new Alxe and hub bearing my mistake was a tool you’ll never you again
Oh I am a repair shop. Have used it a couple times now. Just ordered a mechanical forcing screw. I'm sure that will work as you can put pressure then hit it with a BIG hammer...
don't hit your tool man it ain't going nowhere on threads lol try hitting or prying the part out while pressed or just replace everything you have out mind's well at this point
He wasn't hitting the tool to cause the tool to move, he was hitting the tool to send a shock wave through it to try to cause the axle to pop free while it was under the tremendous pressure of the hydraulic tool.
It would have been cheaper to just buy a new drive shaft than to get that tool and fail
I didn't buy the tool just for this job though
This is the descision I have to make tomorrow : buy the tooling with no guarantee of results or buy new parts have guarantee . Shame my parts Are 4 x the cost of tooling .
I’m looking at the Toledo 10t hydraulic hub puller , I think it has the ability to shock it also .
55buck down the drain.
ID SAY ITS TIME TO THROW THE KIT AND KABOODLE IN THE DUMPSTER BRO, BUT YEAH, LETS SEE IF IT WORKS, OK