I've looked at a dozen boat trailer vids for this simple job. Yours is by far the best filmed for visibility and lighting. The best for start to finish parts. Not just verbal instructions which aggravate the crap out of me when I'm looking at hey a VIDEO?? THAT MEANS VISUAL. lol thanks for showing each step!! I did mine and actually split the metal hub bearing chamber right down the middle knocking the race out w a flat screw driver. I knew I should have used a brass punch but I didn't have one so I tried to use the screwdriver. But to have actually split that cast metal I figured I might better just go for new hubs so I bought new hubs and bearings all the way around. Thank you so much for your great video
Quite superb, I’ve fiddled with many boat trailers for over 50 years and I learnt more about fitting bearings from this excellent video than I ever knew before, thanks so much for putting this up.
I am going to attempt this tomorrow morning for the first time. I have been watching dozens of videos, but this has been the most detailed and frankly the cleanest. You're in no hurry and it shows the attention to detail that you display. It's going on my Favorites.
Excellent! Glad to be of service, I hope your project goes well! A clean space really does help. Sometimes little things like that make everything easier 😃😃
Not sure if you're aware that those bearing race drivers are designed to be used with the taper facing the finished surface to help "self center" the driver in the race while installing them. The taper never touches the finished surface but is supposed to guide at the very top of the race and then taper "away" as the diameter decreases. Otherwise, there would be no lip or taper on the driver, it would just be a piece of round stock with squared ends and a hole in the middle. As machinist, I have custom machined these drivers for many years and are invaluable when installing bearing races, especially large ones using a hydraulic press. Really loved the video, you covered all the important aspects in a detailed fashion which seems rare these days on RUclips videos. Well done!
Thanks! You are correct. Over the years i have had trouble with the correct fitment like you are suggesting. I have had them not sit flush and rock on me when installing like intended. The default position is to flip them over and use the flat side. I am so used to it i forgot to even try it or mention it. Autopilot haha. My bad. Im glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for the nice comment😀🔧
Do you think he packs to much grease in hub? Most videos I see use far less. They definitely put it everywhere, but if this is how it's done then I haven't been using enough in fear of "too much is as bad as too little."
I learned alot of helpful information from your video only thing I would have added would be some anti seize to lug studs I noticed you used it on your brake areas but thank you for the tips
The best video I've seen and the most professional. one step I noticed that he missed was when using the grease gun on the spindle was he forgot to rotate the wheel while applying grease to fill the cavity. otherwise the best one I've seen yet.
No questions yet but I have to say, Thank you for going right into the information without a 5 minute intro about your life and dreams. This is exactly what I was looking for.
The best video on trailer axles on RUclips hands down!!!!!!!.. excellent demonstration now I understand how to properly maintain and service my trailer bearings thank you thank you great tutorial
Excellent detailed explanation! I always service the wheel bearings on a newly purchased trailer. That 20 minutes can save several hours on the side of the road!
A good video. I learned bearing replacement and field repair from my Dad. He was a tool and diemaker and machine tool maker for 50 years. He made more tools than He bought. I even watched him weld, field braize and grind round spindles and tractor PTO shafts and re-temper them. I often use a brass punch, block of wood and wood dowel. Unless the races and seals are stubborn, it prevents me from damaging my work. I have always done the 1/4 turn method. For my trailers, I re- adjust after the first use. Every stop while pulling, we check the temperature of the rims. You should be able to touch without burning your hand. I more recently keep my work laser thermometer In my driver door pouch.
What temp do you look for on the laser thermometer? my hubs get warm to the touch not hot. That’s on an hour driving at 60 miles an hour and a sunny day.
Ya what temps!? Great question. I don't know what temp warm to the touch is, but I would say that is perfect for a load + 1hour + 60mph. My guess range on that temp would be 100-130degrees. Bearings are "working but not working overtime" 😃
Excellent job!!! I have seen many a fishing trip canceled because some moron didn’t take care of their bearings (or fail to check tires, hubs, and pressure). You delivered an impressive amount of info. I always have a greased and seated spare hub with me for whatever trailer I happen to be towing. I build a spare when I am redoing the bearings. Once I seat the new bearings in the spare, I add a spare washer, castle nut, and cotter pin and vacuum seal it all together (seal-a-meal style). Bearing failures sometimes result in losing the entire wheel, as in it comes completely off of trailer… The hardware is usually lost in those instances… (sometimes a wheel lug nut is the same size and thread pattern, but that is pretty rare). Better to limp it home or continue on with the right parts (and not have to leave it on the side of the road, and then return with what you should have already had with you).
This video is fantastic. Ten days ago I was pulling my 21’ Bayliner Bowrider on a single axle Escort trailer out of her garage and backing her up to wash and prep her for the seventy mile drive to the lake. While backing up my wife screams your right wheel is falling off. I thought she meant my wheel was off in the grass. I got out to see that my right wheel was indeed coming off the the axle. I admit I haven’t serviced my bearings for over twenty years. I had no idea because I only put my my trailer in fresh water twice a year. Got two bearing kits from my local marine shop and in the process of rebuilding both wheels. Interesting, because I’m figuring out that I’m on my own. Don’t have anything like AAA for trailers with a 3000 pounds boat on it. Good thing is that this happened right in my driveway and not on the road. Thanks for this video. I also have a six stud hub.
Thank you!! I really appreciate that and I hope you are able to get it all fixed up! Trailers are really simple, basic, and last a long time if maintained. I have seen the bearings outlast the trailer many times when they have been checked, adjusted, and greased periodically. It is easy forget about maintaining them for everyone. Happens to me sometimes too. If they break on the road it can be an extreme hassle. Trailers do a lot of good work hauling all sorts of loads 😃😃
Just a quick follow up. My right wheel literally rolled off my axle in my driveway on May 1. Went round and round trying to find the correct outer bearing and racer. Bought a standard 1 1/34 x 1 1/4 bearing kit. Inside bearing went in fine but that outer bearing gave me hell. Didn’t have the original as it was literally destroyed no nothing to look at to get a bearing number. Finally working on my trailer yesterday my neighbor who was a Delta mechanic came by. We both looked at, measured the hub and figured out that what I had was a mismatched outer bearing and racer from the kit and several trip to the marine store to pick up a different outer bearing kit. He suggested we head to NAPA right around the corner from my house. Took the hub, and mismatched bearings and those guys fixed me up perfectly. Who knew. I think the difference came from the kit being designed for boats in the 5-6 thousand pound range were my boat is around 3300 lbs. Hence the different size outer bearing. Got my trailer all put back together yesterday. Did have to pull all right drum brakes off the backplate because they got totally screwed up, but after I get the boat off I plan on having the trailer hubs totally rebuilt with disk brakes. Again outstanding video and I have learned so much about bearings, racers, zerk fittings, punches, etc etc. Two thumbs up. Thanks again. AC.
@@AlanCheak Thanks man! Very cool knowing I helped 😃. I am so glad you got it all sorted and headed the right direction now. I will have to keep your setup in mind for the next video. I know there are some oddballs out there and you may have one. Shouldn't effect durability or anything, but an extra pain parts matching for sure! Nice work teaming up with the neighbor to tackle and finish it 😃😃
Great job man, as a mechanic for over 20yrs watching a video on tapered roller bearing checking, cleaning, replacement, seating and bearing adjustment is only out of curiosity to see other ways of doing it than I do. But you covered to 2 only ways to do it properly with excepting to actually measuring bearing clearance. It’s simple you use a magnetic or vice grip style dial indicator base and a indicator that reads less than one thousands of an inch. That is the only real way to measure zero bearing endplay, the typically most bearing manufactures have a spec of 0.000” - 0.002” for long bearing life and operation! By the way cotter keys don’t get bent over the case nut, I’m every class, recertification or training course they are bent one to the left and right going around the castle but. The cotter key is more likely to shear if it is bent over the nut versus around the nut, I’ve seen it and it’s easy to tell which way the cotter key was bent after it failed!
I just did the super thanks but I must tell you that your video was incredibly helpful I just welded two axles to my 20-foot container and installed electric brakes and hubs, just as you had directed. It was exactly as you had described--no surprises. I can't thank you enough for such a well-done video. Mahalo for your time.
This is the next best thing to watching a buddy who knows tons about bearings and is an excellent video to watch in preparation of doing this maintenance. Thanks. A couple thoughts: 1) once you get to the point of reassembling we want to be careful about keeping contaminants out of the bearing stack up. At 49:00 all the banging and wood work knocks all sorts of goobers into the grease which can eventually end up in the bearing. I think at least cover the seal with a lint free towel when banging the seal back in to prevent that. I also like to use paper towel when cleaning out the grease and then switch to lint free (blue papers) when I reassemble so as to not contaminate the grease with lint. 2) When using the zerk fitting you should continually spin the hub while pumping grease. The spinning helps the grease flow thru the return path back to the front. If you don't spin the hub there is a chance you can build up pressure at the inside bearing and blow past your grease seal into the hub area.
That was a great, detailed, instructional video. I came specifically for the hub install section, no one else I've seen actually goes over bearing pre-load. Thanks sir.
I really appreciate that so much thank you!! In person instruction will always be best but it's so hard to do. I love the youtube format for sharing experience and ideas. It's looking like the best format for me so far! I checked out your ranch/farm and videos! Very cool 😃😃
Great work! There is a Huge contrast to most of the other videos on this topic where advice is given based on what they heard for others; some totally wrong. The difference you have shown is the understanding of how the components and assemblies work together. You really went above and beyond.
Wow! Thank you so much! I really put a lot of effort into the video and i can't tell you how happy i am that so many of you find it useful. Thank you 😀😀😀
@@stevetrepanier4351 Thanks Steve, all good technical info. Rtv isn't needed, seals are press fit and seal automatically. It wouldn't hurt anything to do that though. It is an extra step and not commonly done in the field. Clean parts and grease is also a great idea! Bearing adjustment is very important. Zero end play is the goal. Although with the cotter key system perfect adjustment can be hard to attain. With that in mind these bearing styles are extremely old and archaic but they work very very well 😃🔧
This is a great example of thorough and professional treatment of a subject (any subject). The thoroughness was of crucial importance to me when it came to the seal surfaces and options for dealing with those-options that were not discussed in the more cursory and less professional videos I watched before finally getting to this one. Thanks very much & see you on the road.
This is 100% of the information I needed to fix my old Dayton Fayette axle problems on an old used trailer. Pretty sure replacing the grease and all hadn't been done in decades. Thank you!
Dude, you’ll never get views without some corny rave music or stupid jokes! Lol. All jokes aside, there are a lot of people that could learn a lot from you. This has been the most helpful video and I haven’t even started my project yet. Even though I’ll be doing this on a camper, you have been extremely helpful. Well done!
Thank you so much for this excellent instructional video!!! (I greatly appreciate your calm demeanor with no profanity.) May God Bless you and your family< John 3:16
Great video. Best one I've watched, and I now feel comfortable doing this myself. FYI, I didn't have a socket that would fit the grease/dust cap, so I used a piece of PVC pipe that fit great and worked perfectly.
Glad it helped! Nice work. Yes!- Nearly anything that fits the seal and hub can work to install it. I have been known to use just a hammer with much success in a pinch. But, a proper spacer is always best and can be found using other materials like you did. Nice creativity 😃😃
An even easier way to pop that bearing and seal out it to put the drum back on the spindle, thread the nut on, and pull. The nut will pop the seal and bearing out. Great video.
when putting the outer cups in you can grind the outside face of the old cups so that they slid in and out then sit them on top of the new ones and hammer them in, this will prevent any damage to the new outer bearing cups, very good vid
You still ended with a little bit of preload on the bearing. That is perfectly fine. I am a aircraft mechanic for 35 years now and they use the same setup for the Landing Gear wheels, just much bigger tapered roller bearings. We torque them up to a certain amount to seat them and then back them off loose and torque the nut to much lower amount and the nut will always be more then hand tight…so some preload on the bearings in the end. The locking method for the nut is more then a cotter pin on airplanes! Good video with lots of good information for the average person with a trailer. I see plenty of trailers on the side of the road with the bearings blown out…especially BOAT trailers. I just towed my boat 1000 KM no problem because I serviced the bearings before I left…do it once a year.
Very nice information. Most people will not be able to work on their trailer without the boat on it like you did here. Unless they live lakeside or something.
Thank you! That is so true. Most times it is the same for me except in this case. I recommend using proper jacks and stands and proper methods in any case for safety 😃😃
I’m 53:29 installing on my little harbor freight trailer today and I can’t get the inner or outer bearings to slide over the spindle well it’s really really tight but the numbers match on the part. I had to cut the old one with the grinder to remove the inner. It was completely decimated and shredded when removed and I couldn’t drive the ring off the spindle. I’m worried that the parts are wrong but the number matches. Should I just force it on in the hub? That’s all that’s holding me up hopefully someone will reaffirm that I’m doing good by just putting the hub together like you did and pushing it onto the spindle enough to get the castle nut on to “set “ them? Please advise please 🙏🏼. Thanks Guys! 🖖🏼🇺🇸
Hi. Most bearings should slide right over the spindle dry or with a little grease with no problem major problems. Sometimes they will "stick" a little bit, but should free by hand. If they won't slide over the shaft easily there could be a nick or burr on the shaft that needs to be polished or cleaned up with some emery clothe if needed. Sizing is likely the issue. It could be a parts issue or a spindle issue most likely. So the old parts slide back on no problem? Might need to do a little detective work. If the shaft is clean and rust free and nick/burr free, a set of dial calipers could help by measuring spindle and bearing inner race to help get to the bottom what is going on there. Sorry you are having trouble, let me know what you find please 😃
Thanks for helping me. The old one was difficult to get off the spindle it was tight tight. I had to x cut it with a grinder. Putting it back together was the same. I would have had to tap it on somehow but I ended up sanding the spindle with 220 and the bearing slipped right on. No trouble. 🥴 Unfortunately I got a hair thinner on the spindle than I wanted. I didn't think 220 grit was doing much work so I ended up sanding longer than I should have without checking the fitment as I progressed. I'm talking about less than a mil. But almost. 😔 The bearing does have a tiny tiny bit of slop on the spindle. I figured it's going to be okay. I hope 🤦🏻❣️🖖🇺🇲
@@erickamekonapeper4007 Nice work! Maybe drive it 50 miles and remove and inpect to see if the bearing is spinning on the sprindle and scoring it. If so you will need a new spindle to correct for that. I should have clarified to just polish it up. Usually that is all that is needed or at least do that in increments so you don't go to far. I am glad you figured it out. Could be just manufacturing tolerances are as good as the bearings and created the bind. Hard to say. But at least you made some headway. Double check it after a few miles to be sure everything is working properly 😃
On your illustration page at the beginning of your video can I assume that the parts shown are 13:48 in order they are placed on the spindle? 13:4813:48
I was just showing different types of locking devises some manufacturers may use instead of a cotter pin there. Those pictures are all separate styles for different axles. So they don't go all together on one axle type. Does that make sense?
This was so informative. I did however notice a wood chip fall into the grease starting at 49:46. I think as the grease heats up any chip could flow into the bearings and probably cause damage. Keep up the great vids !
Great point and good eye! I think I picked that chunk of wood out of the grease right after it happened. Sorry I didn't show that. I am glad you liked it! I am working on some new ones now 😃😃
Are all the parts correct? If so it may not spin because the rotor and hub isn't heavy enough to have the inertia to go around. That test is just a ball park test to see if there is any indication of grease or lack of grease. Maybe try putting the tire on and spin it to see how it reacts and let me know?
@@EasyFixShaun The whole video is great. As a mechanical engineer I very much appreciated the mechanics how the bearings work and then graphs, axis, and link examples overlayed the video. It's very good for beginners to understand how they work to avoid damaging the components during disassembly. As an aspiring content creator I really appreciate the camera angles you were able to get of the actual work. For example the interior shots of where to hit the race to knock it out, there's no space to do but let alone do it and film it? Awesome! I know it takes about 4 times the amount of time to document your work. So I definitely appreciate it. Keep up work like this.
Wow thanks man! Many angles were a huge challenge for the video. But I was pleased with the product in the end so it was worth it. It's hard making videos. Good luck on your journey 😃😃
Bearings are a little tight. Should be .001" - .005" end play on bearings running on grease. You can sand the washer to get a little more clearance. You must spin the wheel when adding grease to an EZ Lube system.
Good points for sure! I would add that .001.-.005 is hard to measure sometimes with a hub full of sticky grease. The hand adjustment is a viable method and solves that problem. It has been used for a 100+ years. Pressurized greasing happens everywhere inside without spinning because the seal on the inside. There is only one exit point for the grease. The hub will end up full of grease. Grease naturally goes everywhere but the spin method could be slightly better. I agree with you 100% 😀🔧
6:18 I just bought a little boat trailer and I am trying to replace one of the bearings because it doesn’t sound very smooth. I took it out and went to AutoZone and got a replacement 1 inch bearing and brought it back, and when I put the new bearing in, I was not able to push it in far enough to get the nut Far enough in for the cotter pin to go through. I wonder if it’s some thing I’m doing wrong or if two 1 inch bearings could be somehow different enough for me not to be able to push it in. There is no race attached to the bearing. The pairings that I bought have a race outside of the bearing and also a rubber gasket and a little metal housing for outside of the bearing, but the trailer bearing that I removed did not have either of those.
Hmmm. Im not sure. Did you clean up the spindle and inspect for damage? Maybe the spindle has a metal burr on it preventing the bearing from going on all the way, which would make the nut not tighten properly. If that all looks good make sure the parts you received are correct. Could be a problem there 😀🔧
Great video, Thanks. I was taught to use a brass drift to take out bearing races if they were to be re-used, to avoid chipping the brittle, hardened steel they are made from and also, to avoid scoring the bearing mounting surfaces within a cast steel drum. Brass drift again to install new races, if any press gear is not available.
Thank you! Great tips. The old school methods for trailer bearings are still perfect and best practice to make sure bearings are not chipped or damaged 😀😀
I just started my wheel bearings on my 5th wheel last night. I used a flat pry bar and I clamped a little clamp toward the top and hammered up like the seal extractor. It's good in a pinch.
Very good, Gave you a thumbs up! One important comment. You used the bearing and bushing driver kit to put the races back into place but you used a punch to get them out first, when the same bearing and bushing driver kit could have been used to get them out instead. Also that looks like the driver disk would work better upside down with the driver disk fitting down into the race with its lipped edge up over the race, thus keeping it basically centered without sliding off.
Thank you! Great tips also thank you! Old habits die hard. I should have used the spacer driver kit instead of a punch. Punch is more faster and familiar to me. Sorry about that! 😀😀
Wouldn't happen unless the races were sticking out far enough and the tool spacer was exactly the right size to "grab" it. There are some applications out there it could work on. But not this one. The race was tough to get at. But of course i didn't try it. I will try in the future though on another example 😀
Just one thing i do a little different, Dexter recommends that you spin the wheel/hub while pumping the grease in through the hole in axle so you don't blow out the rear seal.
Not a bad Idea at all! Great tip! Thank you for mentioning it for sure. This was just personal preference. I have found that pressure overcomes space and the spaces are filled by grease with or with out spinning. I haven't yet blown out a seal from greasing. I do spin sometimes also during greasing. I just have never seen any difference, the grease seems to fill the void either way 😃
Great video man. I am in the process of messing with Dexter "Vault" hub oil seal...they use odd, expensive grease. Correction, used to use odd expensive grease. Going back with normal grease.
Excellent detailed video! Thanks for all your time and effort producing this! I especially liked how you gave tool options, different approaches and even knocked down the audio volume when you were hammering. One of THE best videos on this topic on YT. I've done a few trailers many years ago, but now have both a boat and RV trailer to maintain and will feel confident doing my own work. Thanks again!
feel fortunate that the inner race was sticking to the hub and not the axle. mine was sticking to the axle and i had to use an angle grinder to get it off, which nicked the back of the axle, and now I'm buying a new axle!!! Ya, I'm buying a new axle and using Timken parts, along with ACTUALLY maintaining my trailer this time.
Thank you. Great tip! A scrap piece of wood could be used. The spacers are the best to make sure seals are perfect. But, not needed. Grease seals just need to be even all the way around and there are several ways to do it 😃
Thanks! Glad to help. The outside race should be flat across the outermost "side" surface or "edge". That is so it can be pressed into the into the wheel hub and eventually end up pressed in all the way, evenly.. So because of that, it measures the same anywhere on the outside edge or outside diameter. Does that help?
Great demonstration ... especially the preloading discussion and demo. I may need a "skosch" more time when I do my repacking but I'm sure it will work out!!
Thank you! A lot of time went into this video to offer several ways to see and understand how these bearings work. They are super simple but need to be set up perfectly for best results, in my opinion. I am sure you can do it! 😃🔧
Great How-To video! I have a 2013 travel trailer. Axles are 3,500-lb, Brakes are 10 x 1-3/4. The studs are 5 on 4-1/2. 14in tires. Everything was made by ALKO which no longer exists and parts are not available. I'm thinking of upgrading the brakes and drums to 10 x 2-1/4 but I'm concerned the original spindles may be too short and/or the new bearings a different size. The axle hub face length measures in at 85in. which I believe is also a size not available. Have you encountered this before? Is having the original brake shoes relined still a thing? ... Thanks
Thanks!! Wow I can believe parts are unavailable already for you axle. There might be several ways to deal with it. You could measure and piece it back together with parts that fit possibly. If it was my trailer I would just put new axles on it if the measurements work like these 3500's from amazon. Shipped right to your door. Bolt em on! Might be easier? 85" Dexter axles w/drums amzn.to/4bVxnN2 85" Rockwell axle Kit with springs amzn.to/3KuWCtL The Rockwell kit has no brakes but you can find the brakes you want and bolt on to them. There are lots of other parts like seals and bearings on amazon too if you go that route., I find measuring my stuff at home and shipping to my door easiest. *Any purchases from my amazon links or while on the website from those links, I make a small portion for the channel. 😃
Great info. I hear many aspects of packing wheel bearings on trailers. Especially boat trailers. Mainly fill the hubs or don't fill the hubs. I believe its mainly to keep water and debris out. The only thing I would do is not use wood to hit on. If you look back you will notice a piece of wood fell off and went into the rear bearing area. Thx for the info.
My first travel trailer bearing and race replacement! I do have an ez lube fitting and spindle. Do I need to spin hub from time to time when loading spindle? Excellent - awesome video.
Yep! Great detail. This helped me remove and install the races. End play check with tightening castle nut and back-off then hand tighten. Embarrassed to say but didn't know this. Not sure what procedure I followed in the past. Question about the brake self-adjusters. do you back these off? When tightening castle nut to remove end play and turning the drum I wouldn't think you would want the drum dragging on brake pads. Your thoughts on this?
That was great! Clear shots no tacky jokes or distracting background music. Perfect instructional video
Thanks i am glad you enjoyed it. A lot of work went into it. Really appreciate 😀🔧
2nd. Best bearing tutorial... Last video I clicked guy mentions halfway it's his first time doing the job. Lol
@@user-lv3th9pe7u Thank you! Not my first. I should have mentioned it 😃
But it is a long drawn out comment lol. 🏴 just had to . Laugh with me. Lol
Excellent, comprehensive, detailed, dynamic video and thank you!
Thanks! I had a lot of fun making it for you!
An absolute “Masterclass” in wheels bearings…thanks!
Wow thank you!! What was your favorite section?
I've looked at a dozen boat trailer vids for this simple job. Yours is by far the best filmed for visibility and lighting. The best for start to finish parts. Not just verbal instructions which aggravate the crap out of me when I'm looking at hey a VIDEO?? THAT MEANS VISUAL. lol thanks for showing each step!! I did mine and actually split the metal hub bearing chamber right down the middle knocking the race out w a flat screw driver. I knew I should have used a brass punch but I didn't have one so I tried to use the screwdriver. But to have actually split that cast metal I figured I might better just go for new hubs so I bought new hubs and bearings all the way around. Thank you so much for your great video
Thank you!! Really appreciate that and I am glad I could help out 😃🔧
Quite superb, I’ve fiddled with many boat trailers for over 50 years and I learnt more about fitting bearings from this excellent video than I ever knew before, thanks so much for putting this up.
Great to hear! You have a lot of experience! No problem, glad I could help out 😃🔧
I am going to attempt this tomorrow morning for the first time. I have been watching dozens of videos, but this has been the most detailed and frankly the cleanest. You're in no hurry and it shows the attention to detail that you display. It's going on my Favorites.
Excellent! Glad to be of service, I hope your project goes well! A clean space really does help. Sometimes little things like that make everything easier 😃😃
Not sure if you're aware that those bearing race drivers are designed to be used with the taper facing the finished surface to help "self center" the driver in the race while installing them. The taper never touches the finished surface but is supposed to guide at the very top of the race and then taper "away" as the diameter decreases. Otherwise, there would be no lip or taper on the driver, it would just be a piece of round stock with squared ends and a hole in the middle. As machinist, I have custom machined these drivers for many years and are invaluable when installing bearing races, especially large ones using a hydraulic press. Really loved the video, you covered all the important aspects in a detailed fashion which seems rare these days on RUclips videos. Well done!
Thanks! You are correct. Over the years i have had trouble with the correct fitment like you are suggesting. I have had them not sit flush and rock on me when installing like intended. The default position is to flip them over and use the flat side. I am so used to it i forgot to even try it or mention it. Autopilot haha. My bad. Im glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for the nice comment😀🔧
Great video, very detailed explanation. Thank you!
Do you think he packs to much grease in hub? Most videos I see use far less. They definitely put it everywhere, but if this is how it's done then I haven't been using enough in fear of "too much is as bad as too little."
I learned alot of helpful information from your video only thing I would have added would be some anti seize to lug studs I noticed you used it on your brake areas but thank you for the tips
Thank you! Very happy to help 😃😃@@IdleDrummer
Certainly the most comprehensive review on the 'net, raising the bar for what's out there.
Ha! Thanks man. I really appreciate that 😀🔧
The best video I've seen and the most professional. one step I noticed that he missed was when using the grease gun on the spindle was he forgot to rotate the wheel while applying grease to fill the cavity. otherwise the best one I've seen yet.
Thanks a lot! Glad to help. Rotating the wheel during greasing could help for sure 😀🔧
No questions yet but I have to say, Thank you for going right into the information without a 5 minute intro about your life and dreams. This is exactly what I was looking for.
My pleasure! 😃😃
@@MrReyes-bq1xh Well, we didn't search celebrities did we? Searched to learn. Not a life event. 😂
He did didn't he? 😂 I am alright with it. I am the same way
*_Very true. My goal is to get you the info!😀 _*
@@EasyFixShaun Great information. Thank you for the video. 😊
I use the brass punches so it don’t nick up my hub or race. Good video.
great tip! 😃😃
Thank you!!! This was incredibly helpful, and I especially appreciated the measurements info 🙏
Holy Toledo! Thank you 😊😊
The best video on trailer axles on RUclips hands down!!!!!!!.. excellent demonstration now I understand how to properly maintain and service my trailer bearings thank you thank you great tutorial
Wow, thank you! I really appreciate that. What was the best part or section for you?
Good morning am brown zulu I need a hub
Oh no! 😂 that sounds very bad. Making any progress?
Excellent detailed explanation! I always service the wheel bearings on a newly purchased trailer. That 20 minutes can save several hours on the side of the road!
Thanks man! That is a really great tip! Rather than assume the trailer is good when new, double checking is a brilliant😃🔧
This is the best trailer bearing video on RUclips. They should put this on boost so you can retire. Thank you!
Thanks Scott! Really appreciate that 😀😀
This has been the most detailed video I have ever seen on packing bearings replacing races fantastic video thank you very much
Wow, thanks! Glad to help out. Good luck with your project 😃🔧
A good video.
I learned bearing replacement and field repair from my Dad.
He was a tool and diemaker and machine tool maker for 50 years.
He made more tools than He bought. I even watched him weld, field braize and grind round spindles and tractor PTO shafts and re-temper them.
I often use a brass punch, block of wood and wood dowel. Unless the races and seals are stubborn, it prevents me from damaging my work.
I have always done the 1/4 turn method.
For my trailers, I re- adjust after the first use. Every stop while pulling, we check the temperature of the rims.
You should be able to touch without burning your hand.
I more recently keep my work laser thermometer In my driver door pouch.
Thanks a lot. That is a great story about learning from your Dad. Great tips 😃😃
What temp do you look for on the laser thermometer? my hubs get warm to the touch not hot. That’s on an hour driving at 60 miles an hour and a sunny day.
Ya what temps!? Great question. I don't know what temp warm to the touch is, but I would say that is perfect for a load + 1hour + 60mph. My guess range on that temp would be 100-130degrees. Bearings are "working but not working overtime" 😃
This was a very well done maintenance tutorial for us new trailer owners. Thank you
Thank you for your kind comment I am so glad it was helpful! I love trailers! I hope you get many miles and years out of your trailer 😃🔧
Outstanding video, done my boat trailer today and the difference just pushing it around the yard was staggering, thank you, from Australia,,,,
No way that is awsome! Glad it helped 😃😃
Excellent job!!! I have seen many a fishing trip canceled because some moron didn’t take care of their bearings (or fail to check tires, hubs, and pressure). You delivered an impressive amount of info.
I always have a greased and seated spare hub with me for whatever trailer I happen to be towing. I build a spare when I am redoing the bearings. Once I seat the new bearings in the spare, I add a spare washer, castle nut, and cotter pin and vacuum seal it all together (seal-a-meal style). Bearing failures sometimes result in losing the entire wheel, as in it comes completely off of trailer… The hardware is usually lost in those instances… (sometimes a wheel lug nut is the same size and thread pattern, but that is pretty rare). Better to limp it home or continue on with the right parts (and not have to leave it on the side of the road, and then return with what you should have already had with you).
Thanks I'm glad you liked it. That spare in a bag is a great idea! Thanks for sharing😀😀
This video is fantastic. Ten days ago I was pulling my 21’ Bayliner Bowrider on a single axle Escort trailer out of her garage and backing her up to wash and prep her for the seventy mile drive to the lake. While backing up my wife screams your right wheel is falling off. I thought she meant my wheel was off in the grass. I got out to see that my right wheel was indeed coming off the the axle. I admit I haven’t serviced my bearings for over twenty years. I had no idea because I only put my my trailer in fresh water twice a year. Got two bearing kits from my local marine shop and in the process of rebuilding both wheels. Interesting, because I’m figuring out that I’m on my own. Don’t have anything like AAA for trailers with a 3000 pounds boat on it. Good thing is that this happened right in my driveway and not on the road. Thanks for this video. I also have a six stud hub.
Thank you!! I really appreciate that and I hope you are able to get it all fixed up! Trailers are really simple, basic, and last a long time if maintained. I have seen the bearings outlast the trailer many times when they have been checked, adjusted, and greased periodically. It is easy forget about maintaining them for everyone. Happens to me sometimes too. If they break on the road it can be an extreme hassle. Trailers do a lot of good work hauling all sorts of loads 😃😃
Just a quick follow up. My right wheel literally rolled off my axle in my driveway on May 1. Went round and round trying to find the correct outer bearing and racer. Bought a standard 1 1/34 x 1 1/4 bearing kit. Inside bearing went in fine but that outer bearing gave me hell. Didn’t have the original as it was literally destroyed no nothing to look at to get a bearing number. Finally working on my trailer yesterday my neighbor who was a Delta mechanic came by. We both looked at, measured the hub and figured out that what I had was a mismatched outer bearing and racer from the kit and several trip to the marine store to pick up a different outer bearing kit. He suggested we head to NAPA right around the corner from my house. Took the hub, and mismatched bearings and those guys fixed me up perfectly. Who knew. I think the difference came from the kit being designed for boats in the 5-6 thousand pound range were my boat is around 3300 lbs. Hence the different size outer bearing. Got my trailer all put back together yesterday. Did have to pull all right drum brakes off the backplate because they got totally screwed up, but after I get the boat off I plan on having the trailer hubs totally rebuilt with disk brakes. Again outstanding video and I have learned so much about bearings, racers, zerk fittings, punches, etc etc. Two thumbs up. Thanks again. AC.
@@AlanCheak Thanks man! Very cool knowing I helped 😃. I am so glad you got it all sorted and headed the right direction now. I will have to keep your setup in mind for the next video. I know there are some oddballs out there and you may have one. Shouldn't effect durability or anything, but an extra pain parts matching for sure! Nice work teaming up with the neighbor to tackle and finish it 😃😃
Great video. absolutely helped me get mine sorted! Thanks Mate
Great to hear! 😀😀
And THIS is how I made sure my trailer was safe enough for a long road trip. Thank you! 😎🙌
Excellent. Glad to help, safe travels 😃🔧
Great job man, as a mechanic for over 20yrs watching a video on tapered roller bearing checking, cleaning, replacement, seating and bearing adjustment is only out of curiosity to see other ways of doing it than I do.
But you covered to 2 only ways to do it properly with excepting to actually measuring bearing clearance.
It’s simple you use a magnetic or vice grip style dial indicator base and a indicator that reads less than one thousands of an inch.
That is the only real way to measure zero bearing endplay, the typically most bearing manufactures have a spec of 0.000” - 0.002” for long bearing life and operation!
By the way cotter keys don’t get bent over the case nut, I’m every class, recertification or training course they are bent one to the left and right going around the castle but.
The cotter key is more likely to shear if it is bent over the nut versus around the nut, I’ve seen it and it’s easy to tell which way the cotter key was bent after it failed!
Great tips! Really appreciate your knowledge 😃🔧
Talk about the best trailer brake video on the internet, thank you
Thank you! No problem glad to help 😃😃
Buying you a coffee for your incredibly detailed and useful video.
Thank you!! Glad it was helpful! I really appreciate that so much 😃😃
Well done! Clear, concise, thorough and GREAT video quality. I have had trailer bearing failures many times . Now I know why. Many thanks.
Thanks! I got a new camera and this was the first video I used it on. I am so glad you liked it 😃🔧
what an awesome well done video! very informative, thank you.
I am do glad it was helpful to you! 😀
I just did the super thanks but I must tell you that your video was incredibly helpful I just welded two axles to my 20-foot container and installed electric brakes and hubs, just as you had directed. It was exactly as you had described--no surprises. I can't thank you enough for such a well-done video. Mahalo for your time.
Thank you! I really appreciate that. I am so glad it helped you out 😃😃🔧
Awesome detail. Loved the step by step, and the exploded view of the spindle and parts. Thank
you.
Awsome! No problem I'm glad you liked it so much. I like looking up spindle parts! It was fun making it 😀🔧
This is the next best thing to watching a buddy who knows tons about bearings and is an excellent video to watch in preparation of doing this maintenance. Thanks.
A couple thoughts: 1) once you get to the point of reassembling we want to be careful about keeping contaminants out of the bearing stack up. At 49:00 all the banging and wood work knocks all sorts of goobers into the grease which can eventually end up in the bearing. I think at least cover the seal with a lint free towel when banging the seal back in to prevent that. I also like to use paper towel when cleaning out the grease and then switch to lint free (blue papers) when I reassemble so as to not contaminate the grease with lint. 2) When using the zerk fitting you should continually spin the hub while pumping grease. The spinning helps the grease flow thru the return path back to the front. If you don't spin the hub there is a chance you can build up pressure at the inside bearing and blow past your grease seal into the hub area.
Good tips thank you 😃
This is why I read all the comments...
comments are very entertaining 😂
That was a great, detailed, instructional video. I came specifically for the hub install section, no one else I've seen actually goes over bearing pre-load. Thanks sir.
Excellent! Glad to help 😃
Here are a couple of beverages for this very detailed and comprehensive video.
Wow! I really appreciate that 😃. Many many thanks! 🍻🥂
@@EasyFixShaun seriously. You should be an instructor. So much knowledge and detailed patient instruction.
I really appreciate that so much thank you!! In person instruction will always be best but it's so hard to do. I love the youtube format for sharing experience and ideas. It's looking like the best format for me so far! I checked out your ranch/farm and videos! Very cool 😃😃
Phenominal detailed video. Did an axle today with the pops for the 1st time using this video. Absolutely perfect video. Thank you.
That sounds nice! I am glad you got your project sorted out 😃😃
Great work! There is a Huge contrast to most of the other videos on this topic where advice is given based on what they heard for others; some totally wrong. The difference you have shown is the understanding of how the components and assemblies work together. You really went above and beyond.
Wow! Thank you so much! I really put a lot of effort into the video and i can't tell you how happy i am that so many of you find it useful. Thank you 😀😀😀
@@stevetrepanier4351 Thanks Steve, all good technical info. Rtv isn't needed, seals are press fit and seal automatically. It wouldn't hurt anything to do that though. It is an extra step and not commonly done in the field.
Clean parts and grease is also a great idea!
Bearing adjustment is very important. Zero end play is the goal. Although with the cotter key system perfect adjustment can be hard to attain. With that in mind these bearing styles are extremely old and archaic but they work very very well 😃🔧
This is a great example of thorough and professional treatment of a subject (any subject). The thoroughness was of crucial importance to me when it came to the seal surfaces and options for dealing with those-options that were not discussed in the more cursory and less professional videos I watched before finally getting to this one. Thanks very much & see you on the road.
Thank you I am so glad you liked it! It took a while to make but I was hoping for this exact response. Much appreciated!! 😃🔧
I thought this video was going to having multi millions of views when's I checked. Thanks for making video great job!
Thank you! I am glad you liked it 😃🔧✅
Amazing and very detailed explanation of proper bearing replacement. Thanks for the hard and detailed work.
Thank you! I am so glad it has helped you out! Also thank you so much for your time, the view, and comment 😃😃
This is 100% of the information I needed to fix my old Dayton Fayette axle problems on an old used trailer. Pretty sure replacing the grease and all hadn't been done in decades. Thank you!
Oh wow! Many trailers receive the same treatment. Kinda crazy 😀
A go to video for trailer/caravan bearing replacement. Thanks for detailed edit, it allowed me to replace my bearings with confidence.👍
Excellent! I am glad you got it all sorted out 😃
Very well done sir. Going to try this for the first time this weekend. I feel much more confident after watching this. Thank you!
Excellent! No problem, glad to help. Good luck on your project this weekend 😀😀
Dude, you’ll never get views without some corny rave music or stupid jokes! Lol. All jokes aside, there are a lot of people that could learn a lot from you. This has been the most helpful video and I haven’t even started my project yet. Even though I’ll be doing this on a camper, you have been extremely helpful. Well done!
Wow! Thank you. I hope your project goes well 😀🔧
Very detailed explanation and demonstration! Probably the best I have eve seen! Thanks for your time and efforts!
Thank you! I am so glad you liked it. A lot of effort was spent 😀🔧
@@EasyFixShaun I just watched it again! You are so thorough! Amazing!
@@thebeardedstork432 Thank you again!! I put lots of easter eggs of info in the video 😃
I think that was the best video on bearings I have seen.. GREAT JOB!
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate that 😃😃🍻
Thank you so much for this excellent instructional video!!! (I greatly appreciate your calm demeanor with no profanity.) May God Bless you and your family< John 3:16
You are most welcome. Thank you! I am glad you liked it 😃😃
Very good video! This can lead most anyone to a victory when replacing trailer bearings. 👍
Wow thank you! Really appreciate 😃😃
Great video. Best one I've watched, and I now feel comfortable doing this myself. FYI, I didn't have a socket that would fit the grease/dust cap, so I used a piece of PVC pipe that fit great and worked perfectly.
Glad it helped! Nice work. Yes!- Nearly anything that fits the seal and hub can work to install it. I have been known to use just a hammer with much success in a pinch. But, a proper spacer is always best and can be found using other materials like you did. Nice creativity 😃😃
Buddy, that was an excellent video! You explained everything to the tee, nice job!👍🏻
Much appreciated! Glad you liked it 😃😃
The absolute BEST tutorial I’ve seen on hub/bearing maintenance and replacement. Outstanding detail and explanations. Thanks!
Wow! Made my day, thank you 😃😃
Awesome video, you explained everything to perfection, Thanks for posting!
I really appreciate your kind words! Glad to help out 😃😃
thankyou - a well filmed and thorough video
You are welcome! It was a fun one to make 😃
Top notch video! Similar content providers take note, this is how its done. L&S
Thank you! I really appreciate that you liked it 😀😀😀
Great job - easy to follow, good tips, glad you cover tools to use
Glad you like them!
Thanks so much for the extremely thorough video.
No problem! Glad it was helpful! 😃😃
An even easier way to pop that bearing and seal out it to put the drum back on the spindle, thread the nut on, and pull. The nut will pop the seal and bearing out. Great video.
Great trick. Super fast 😃🔧
This video was awesome, thank you for sharing !!!.
Thank you! Glad to help 😃😃
when putting the outer cups in you can grind the outside face of the old cups so that they slid in and out then sit them on top of the new ones and hammer them in, this will prevent any damage to the new outer bearing cups,
very good vid
Great tip! 😃😃
great info,well done, upon further review and doing mine , you were using the race driver tool backwards, the taper goes inside the race....
Glad to help!
Thanks!
Welcome! Thank you!! 🍻🥂😃😃
You still ended with a little bit of preload on the bearing. That is perfectly fine. I am a aircraft mechanic for 35 years now and they use the same setup for the Landing Gear wheels, just much bigger tapered roller bearings. We torque them up to a certain amount to seat them and then back them off loose and torque the nut to much lower amount and the nut will always be more then hand tight…so some preload on the bearings in the end. The locking method for the nut is more then a cotter pin on airplanes! Good video with lots of good information for the average person with a trailer. I see plenty of trailers on the side of the road with the bearings blown out…especially BOAT trailers. I just towed my boat 1000 KM no problem because I serviced the bearings before I left…do it once a year.
Thank you! i appreciate that. I would love to see an aircraft wheel bearing video. Very cool 😃
Nice work. Easy to follow. No excess. A+
Thank you! So glad to help 😃
Very nice information. Most people will not be able to work on their trailer without the boat on it like you did here. Unless they live lakeside or something.
Thank you! That is so true. Most times it is the same for me except in this case. I recommend using proper jacks and stands and proper methods in any case for safety 😃😃
Very nice video. I cool outer races in the freezer before tapping them in.
That's a great tip. I never do it, but I should try it 😀
This was absolutely amazing.....thank you so much for sharing !!!.
Thank you! Im so glad you liked it 😀😀😀
I’m 53:29 installing on my little harbor freight trailer today and I can’t get the inner or outer bearings to slide over the spindle well it’s really really tight but the numbers match on the part. I had to cut the old one with the grinder to remove the inner. It was completely decimated and shredded when removed and I couldn’t drive the ring off the spindle. I’m worried that the parts are wrong but the number matches. Should I just force it on in the hub? That’s all that’s holding me up hopefully someone will reaffirm that I’m doing good by just putting the hub together like you did and pushing it onto the spindle enough to get the castle nut on to “set “ them? Please advise please 🙏🏼. Thanks Guys! 🖖🏼🇺🇸
Hi. Most bearings should slide right over the spindle dry or with a little grease with no problem major problems. Sometimes they will "stick" a little bit, but should free by hand. If they won't slide over the shaft easily there could be a nick or burr on the shaft that needs to be polished or cleaned up with some emery clothe if needed. Sizing is likely the issue. It could be a parts issue or a spindle issue most likely. So the old parts slide back on no problem? Might need to do a little detective work. If the shaft is clean and rust free and nick/burr free, a set of dial calipers could help by measuring spindle and bearing inner race to help get to the bottom what is going on there. Sorry you are having trouble, let me know what you find please 😃
Thanks for helping me. The old one was difficult to get off the spindle it was tight tight. I had to x cut it with a grinder. Putting it back together was the same. I would have had to tap it on somehow but I ended up sanding the spindle with 220 and the bearing slipped right on. No trouble.
🥴 Unfortunately I got a hair thinner on the spindle than I wanted. I didn't think 220 grit was doing much work so I ended up sanding longer than I should have without checking the fitment as I progressed. I'm talking about less than a mil. But almost.
😔 The bearing does have a tiny tiny bit of slop on the spindle. I figured it's going to be okay. I hope 🤦🏻❣️🖖🇺🇲
@@erickamekonapeper4007 Nice work! Maybe drive it 50 miles and remove and inpect to see if the bearing is spinning on the sprindle and scoring it. If so you will need a new spindle to correct for that. I should have clarified to just polish it up. Usually that is all that is needed or at least do that in increments so you don't go to far. I am glad you figured it out. Could be just manufacturing tolerances are as good as the bearings and created the bind. Hard to say. But at least you made some headway. Double check it after a few miles to be sure everything is working properly 😃
On your illustration page at the beginning of your video can I assume that the parts shown are 13:48 in order they are placed on the spindle? 13:48 13:48
I was just showing different types of locking devises some manufacturers may use instead of a cotter pin there. Those pictures are all separate styles for different axles. So they don't go all together on one axle type. Does that make sense?
This was so informative. I did however notice a wood chip fall into the grease starting at 49:46. I think as the grease heats up any chip could flow into the bearings and probably cause damage. Keep up the great vids !
Great point and good eye! I think I picked that chunk of wood out of the grease right after it happened. Sorry I didn't show that. I am glad you liked it! I am working on some new ones now 😃😃
By far the best video out there for this job!!!
Thank you! Made my day 😃
one of the best vids i have seen on this ,great job!
😃😃😃
Great instruction video. No BS, no wasted time and I like it.
Thank you
You're welcome! Thank you! 😃
My rotor is not free spinning 1-2 revolutions…even without tension.
Bearings slid right in…etc. Could it just be over packed?
Are all the parts correct? If so it may not spin because the rotor and hub isn't heavy enough to have the inertia to go around. That test is just a ball park test to see if there is any indication of grease or lack of grease. Maybe try putting the tire on and spin it to see how it reacts and let me know?
Awesome video! Thanks for taking your time to film this. Super helpful!
Yes! Thanks for commenting. It was a fun one to make 😃
Best bearing video on the internet
Thank you!! What was the best section for you?
@@EasyFixShaun The whole video is great. As a mechanical engineer I very much appreciated the mechanics how the bearings work and then graphs, axis, and link examples overlayed the video. It's very good for beginners to understand how they work to avoid damaging the components during disassembly.
As an aspiring content creator I really appreciate the camera angles you were able to get of the actual work. For example the interior shots of where to hit the race to knock it out, there's no space to do but let alone do it and film it? Awesome! I know it takes about 4 times the amount of time to document your work. So I definitely appreciate it. Keep up work like this.
Wow thanks man! Many angles were a huge challenge for the video. But I was pleased with the product in the end so it was worth it. It's hard making videos. Good luck on your journey 😃😃
I was always taught to back off the nut 1/6th turn. The system heats up and expands.
You don't want to squeege the grease away from the rollers. ,
Bearings are a little tight. Should be .001" - .005" end play on bearings running on grease. You can sand the washer to get a little more clearance. You must spin the wheel when adding grease to an EZ Lube system.
Good points for sure! I would add that .001.-.005 is hard to measure sometimes with a hub full of sticky grease. The hand adjustment is a viable method and solves that problem. It has been used for a 100+ years. Pressurized greasing happens everywhere inside without spinning because the seal on the inside. There is only one exit point for the grease. The hub will end up full of grease. Grease naturally goes everywhere but the spin method could be slightly better. I agree with you 100% 😀🔧
6:18 I just bought a little boat trailer and I am trying to replace one of the bearings because it doesn’t sound very smooth. I took it out and went to AutoZone and got a replacement 1 inch bearing and brought it back, and when I put the new bearing in, I was not able to push it in far enough to get the nut Far enough in for the cotter pin to go through. I wonder if it’s some thing I’m doing wrong or if two 1 inch bearings could be somehow different enough for me not to be able to push it in. There is no race attached to the bearing. The pairings that I bought have a race outside of the bearing and also a rubber gasket and a little metal housing for outside of the bearing, but the trailer bearing that I removed did not have either of those.
Hmmm. Im not sure. Did you clean up the spindle and inspect for damage? Maybe the spindle has a metal burr on it preventing the bearing from going on all the way, which would make the nut not tighten properly. If that all looks good make sure the parts you received are correct. Could be a problem there 😀🔧
Great video, Thanks. I was taught to use a brass drift to take out bearing races if they were to be re-used, to avoid chipping the brittle, hardened steel they are made from and also, to avoid scoring the bearing mounting surfaces within a cast steel drum. Brass drift again to install new races, if any press gear is not available.
Thank you! Great tips. The old school methods for trailer bearings are still perfect and best practice to make sure bearings are not chipped or damaged 😀😀
I just started my wheel bearings on my 5th wheel last night. I used a flat pry bar and I clamped a little clamp toward the top and hammered up like the seal extractor. It's good in a pinch.
Excellent idea. Sometimes you got to make the tools you have work. Or even make a tool from scratch 😀🔧
Very good, Gave you a thumbs up! One important comment. You used the bearing and bushing driver kit to put the races back into place but you used a punch to get them out first, when the same bearing and bushing driver kit could have been used to get them out instead. Also that looks like the driver disk would work better upside down with the driver disk fitting down into the race with its lipped edge up over the race, thus keeping it basically centered without sliding off.
Thank you! Great tips also thank you! Old habits die hard. I should have used the spacer driver kit instead of a punch. Punch is more faster and familiar to me. Sorry about that! 😀😀
How would he have gotten races out with the kit?
Wouldn't happen unless the races were sticking out far enough and the tool spacer was exactly the right size to "grab" it. There are some applications out there it could work on. But not this one. The race was tough to get at. But of course i didn't try it. I will try in the future though on another example 😀
Best bering greasing video out there!!!
Thanks
Wow, thanks! Glad to help 😃😃🔧
Great video! Exactly what I needed as it looks like I have the same Four Winns trailer, but with a disk brake. Thanks!
Thank you! No problem glad to help 😃😃
Very comprehensive! Thank you.
Excellent! You are welcome 😀😀
Just one thing i do a little different, Dexter recommends that you spin the wheel/hub while pumping the grease in through the hole in axle so you don't blow out the rear seal.
Not a bad Idea at all! Great tip! Thank you for mentioning it for sure. This was just personal preference. I have found that pressure overcomes space and the spaces are filled by grease with or with out spinning. I haven't yet blown out a seal from greasing. I do spin sometimes also during greasing. I just have never seen any difference, the grease seems to fill the void either way 😃
Thanks for the detailed video. Just what I needed to see.
No problem glad to hear it! 😃🔧
Great video man. I am in the process of messing with Dexter "Vault" hub oil seal...they use odd, expensive grease. Correction, used to use odd expensive grease. Going back with normal grease.
Thank you! Great tip. NLG1 or NLG2 is pretty standard for most trailer axles now.
Excellent detailed video! Thanks for all your time and effort producing this! I especially liked how you gave tool options, different approaches and even knocked down the audio volume when you were hammering. One of THE best videos on this topic on YT. I've done a few trailers many years ago, but now have both a boat and RV trailer to maintain and will feel confident doing my own work. Thanks again!
My pleasure thank you so much for your comment 😃😃
Great video, thanks. Just subscribed. I appreciate how you described the different size of bearings👍🇺🇲
Thanks for the sub! I'm really glad you like that part. One of my favorites too 😀😀
feel fortunate that the inner race was sticking to the hub and not the axle.
mine was sticking to the axle and i had to use an angle grinder to get it off, which nicked the back of the axle, and now I'm buying a new axle!!!
Ya, I'm buying a new axle and using Timken parts, along with ACTUALLY maintaining my trailer this time.
Oh man! Sorry to hear that. I hope your project goes smoother. You should be good for quite a while with your new axle!
Interesting I didn't even know they made a tool to push in the races, I've always used an appropriate sized socket. Good video!
Thank you. Great tip! A scrap piece of wood could be used. The spacers are the best to make sure seals are perfect. But, not needed. Grease seals just need to be even all the way around and there are several ways to do it 😃
Going to be doing this on my rv tomorrow thanks for the help 🤠
No problem 😃😃
Wow. Great video. Links to parts and all. 10/10 thanks!
Glad it helped! No problem. Glad to help out and pass along some information 😃🔧
Thanks for the video bud. Very informative!!
No problem! Glad to help. Sorry for the delay. Take care 😀😀
Great video, lots of info. Question: For the outside diameter of a wheel bearing, do you measure the smaller or larger end?
Thanks! Glad to help. The outside race should be flat across the outermost "side" surface or "edge". That is so it can be pressed into the into the wheel hub and eventually end up pressed in all the way, evenly.. So because of that, it measures the same anywhere on the outside edge or outside diameter. Does that help?
Great demonstration ... especially the preloading discussion and demo. I may need a "skosch" more time when I do my repacking but I'm sure it will work out!!
Thank you! A lot of time went into this video to offer several ways to see and understand how these bearings work. They are super simple but need to be set up perfectly for best results, in my opinion. I am sure you can do it! 😃🔧
Great How-To video! I have a 2013 travel trailer. Axles are 3,500-lb, Brakes are 10 x 1-3/4. The studs are 5 on 4-1/2. 14in tires.
Everything was made by ALKO which no longer exists and parts are not available.
I'm thinking of upgrading the brakes and drums to 10 x 2-1/4 but I'm concerned the original spindles may be too short and/or the new bearings a different size. The axle hub face length measures in at 85in. which I believe is also a size not available.
Have you encountered this before?
Is having the original brake shoes relined still a thing? ... Thanks
Thanks!! Wow I can believe parts are unavailable already for you axle. There might be several ways to deal with it. You could measure and piece it back together with parts that fit possibly. If it was my trailer I would just put new axles on it if the measurements work like these 3500's from amazon. Shipped right to your door. Bolt em on! Might be easier?
85" Dexter axles w/drums amzn.to/4bVxnN2
85" Rockwell axle Kit with springs amzn.to/3KuWCtL
The Rockwell kit has no brakes but you can find the brakes you want and bolt on to them.
There are lots of other parts like seals and bearings on amazon too if you go that route., I find measuring my stuff at home and shipping to my door easiest.
*Any purchases from my amazon links or while on the website from those links, I make a small portion for the channel. 😃
Great info. I hear many aspects of packing wheel bearings on trailers. Especially boat trailers. Mainly fill the hubs or don't fill the hubs. I believe its mainly to keep water and debris out. The only thing I would do is not use wood to hit on. If you look back you will notice a piece of wood fell off and went into the rear bearing area. Thx for the info.
Very true! Thank you! 😀😀
Excellent video - something to be proud of.
Thank you very much! Very kind 😃😃😃
My first travel trailer bearing and race replacement! I do have an ez lube fitting and spindle. Do I need to spin hub from time to time when loading spindle? Excellent - awesome video.
Do you mean when performing the bearing adjustment? If so, yes its always best to spin the the hub to seat the bearings 😃🔧
Great video, Mister!
It was very professionally done and full of important information.
Thanks!
You're very welcome! Thank you! 😃🔧
Bad ass, no BS, very thorough and I like it!
Thank you!
Yep! Great detail. This helped me remove and install the races. End play check with tightening castle nut and back-off then hand tighten. Embarrassed to say but didn't know this. Not sure what procedure I followed in the past. Question about the brake self-adjusters. do you back these off? When tightening castle nut to remove end play and turning the drum I wouldn't think you would want the drum dragging on brake pads. Your thoughts on this?
Yes. You adjust like any normal drum brake. As long as the self adjusters are working it should take care of the adjustments after that 😀