How to Replace Drum Brakes on Toyota Sienna 2000.
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- Опубликовано: 19 авг 2020
- Drum brake replacement. Learn how to replace your drum brakes: brake shoes, brake drums, wheel cylinder and bleeding of the brakes. This video gives you step by step instructions on replacing drum brakes!
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Step by step
1) Grab the tools you will need
2) Grab the parts needed
3) Grab this plan you will need
4) Park vehicle, handbrake on
5) Start on lug nuts, but don’t remove yet
6) Chock front wheels & jack vehicle up
7) Secure with jack stands & shake vehicle to check stability
8) Handbrake off & remove rear wheels
9) Remove brake drums and clean with brake clean
10) Take pictures of brake set-up
11) Set out new parts in correct configuration
12) Remove top spring: do one side first & keep other side for reference
13) Remove pins and holding springs in middle of brake shoes
14) Remove bottom spring and one brake shoe
15) Remove the emergency brake and other brake shoe
16) Remove brake line from the wheel cylinder (10 mm) & use rag for fluid
17) Remove the wheel cylinder (2 x 8 mm bolts)
18) Install new wheel cylinder (torque 10-15 ft/pounds)
19) Attach brake line again (torque 10-15 ft/pounds)
20) Attach emergency brake to new brake shoe
21) Clean backing plate and lubricate all 6 friction points with anti-seize
22) Install new brake shoes with pins & springs in the middle
23) Clean & lubricate the adjuster with anti-seize or brake grease
24) Screw the adjuster in all the way
25) Install the adjuster and screw out slightly
26) Install the upper spring
27) Install the lower spring
28) Clean and install new brake drums, make sure adjuster hole is rightly positioned
29) Use 1 or 2 lug nuts to keep the drum in position while you adjust the brakes
30) Adjust the brakes with small screw driver - push down on adjuster wheel to move shoes outwards
31) Brakes are correct when there is a slight drag, but not too much friction
32) Bleed your brakes
33) Put wheel back on & fasten lug nuts
34) Proceed to other side and follow the same steps
35) Remove jack stands & lower vehicle
36) Torque the lug nuts to spec
37) Add brake fluid to the master cylinder to correct level
38) Go for a test ride!
Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of Pen-Pusher, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. This video and all opinions are truthfully my own.
Pen-Pusher assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk.
Pen-Pusher recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Pen-Pusher, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.
Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Pen-Pusher. 
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Excellent video. I will be doing this job tomorrow, thank you for the guide. One thing I'd like to point out - I like how you've put so much emphasis on planning. Even a cheat sheet for staying on task. I'm not new to working on vehicles but not a professional, and struggle to stay on task and I often take much longer than intended. I came for a typical instructional video but came away with an unexpected insight on how to do this better.
Yes, planning has really helped me stay calm and take some frustration out of the job. When I have planned well I enjoy doing the work. :)
Excellent guide detailing every step with clear images and concise commentary. Thank you!
Thanks Richard!
Well done ! I have 279,000 on my 2000 sienna , just replaced orig. radiator and starter ! Water pump 6 years ago and that is ALL ! Fantastic , quality vehicle !!!!!! Thank you and take care .👍
Thanks Neil. I love this vehicle. This is a solid vehicle that will never let you down! :)
Same car high mileage good condition car with good
@@mirbakhtary746 Yes, these are wonderful vehicles. They just keep going!
My Radiator blew up at around 220K. Same car. Replaced coil with spark plug tube about 140K, replaced Steering wheel panel around 180, power door stopped working and I had to remove motor to close door manually around 185, replaced driver side window motor assembly around 190 and soon on passenger side, replaced passenger side strut assembly at around 200K, replaced turn signal relay around 215K, replaced driver side axle (because of broken boot) around 220, replaced driver side strut assembly around 230K, replaced integrated relay close to 240K. After about 10 years of driving this car I finally replaced rear Drums along with drum brakes with had left about 20% or so and I'm sure that shoes weren't 100% new at the time when I bought it. Front brakes replaced at around 220K. I'm not counting lights replacement. That's too simple. I did it all by myself except radiator, wheel axle and Steering wheel panel. RUclips is a great help.
@@SergSpace My hat is off to you for doing all that work! I guess you know this van as well as any mechanic. :)
Excellent best video. Very thoroughly done. Detailed.
Thanks. Hope you are successful as you do this! :)
Best rear brake replacement video by far. Very deatiled and now i understand the whole system. Getting my tools and parts ready now👍
Great. I hope you have fun doing this! :)
Thanks I'm a DIY'er and this video was very helpful to me.ive done disc brakes, but not drum as yet. But feel confident in doing them now . thanks again!
Glad it helped
Excellent tutorial. Thanks!
Your'e welcome. Enjoy your Sienna!
Excellent video! It helped me out more than I can say.
Thanks Nate. Good to know I am not wasting my time bothering with cameras, lighting etc. :)
Thanks a lot for guiding instructions! I watched it many times to memorize steps. Last time I did my Drum brake shoes was 25 years ago. So, I didn't want to miss something. It took me about 5 hours in total, mostly because I was struggling to put parking cable back because of spring. And I used 2 pairs of long nose pliers one to hold, one to compress spring and expose the cable. I didn't want to damage it with cutters and I didn't have dull edges old ones. It took a lot of time to put back lower spring on first wheel. Then I did it pretty fast on second one because I put lower spring (green one) first. I used the same brake Spring release tool (OTC) as you did to take of spring, but I used 5 bucks Headlight Adjusting and Brake Spring Tool, the hook (from Amazon) to put upper (white) spring back. You didn't show how to undo parking brake horse shoe ( 15:40 ) , but I figured it out by using cutters to lift up and roll out each end of shoe. Since I had New set of Ac Delco kit and didn't have to worry about old one. For taking drums off I used M8 x1.25 2 inch hex head bolts to put in drum threaded holes and screw in evenly (5 turns clockwise for each). I couldn't brake welded rust with any hummer. I bought 4 of those bolts in case if thread would get stripped. And it did on one of those, actually. I used 2 cans of green brake cleaners mostly to clean up drums' inner surface to avoid new brakes squeaking and I had to clean up wheel studs since I got Anti seize on them and you don't really want it there, unless you want your wheel fly out from your car. I used Bosch Blue Drum brake shoes from Amazon. The stopping power was increased and there was no squeaking. I got Wagner also, but Wagner's surface felt like a bit slippery with more dust and Bosch felt like it has more friction with less dust. You didn't show how to adjust brakes, but I watched another video on RUclips. The point is that you have to turn adjusting wheel as much as when you put drum on (without tire) with 2 lug nuts and turn drum with hand it should make 1 or 1.5 turns. No less no more. Well, anyway, Thanks for this video. It helped a lot!
Thank you Serg. This is a good description. It sounds like you did a great job! :)
@@Pen_Pusher Thank you. It seems though I have to replace drums also. They have a crack close to the center, not on friction area though, so there is no noise or problem while stepping on brakes.
@@SergSpace It sounds like this is your next job!
@@Pen_Pusher I did it today. Passenger side drum had enough time for 10 days to stick on to axle panel and regardless that I put Anti-Seize Lubricant I wouldn't be able to remove drum without using bolts in those M8x1.25 holes in drums. I got Duralast from Autozone. They are fit, quiet and do their job. The only problem is that they didn't send Drums as pictured on their web site, means - no M8x1.25 threaded holes. I put them on with Anti-Seize Lubricant , but it will be a problem to pull them out if I need it without those M8x1.25 holes.
@@SergSpace Hmm. I see what you mean. I wonder if you could drill those holes and thread them with a tap & die?
🙏Baie dankie Meneer, uitstekend verduidelik 👍 !!!
Groot plesier! Haha
Perfect fix , ty
Thanks Jose!
Thank you sir
Not a sir, but you are very welcome!
My dad has a 1999, i never done a drum brake job, I don’t understand why this system have to be so complicated. I’d make a disc brake conversion if it’s possible. Good job I can look back when I tackle this 😬
Interesting thought about doing a disc brake conversion. Let me know if you decide to do it!
Thanks
You're welcome!
Thanks for the video should be helpful during my brake replacement. Why are you using cutting pliers to pull and pry on the emergency brake cable and some of the springs? Seems a bit dangerous like it will cause a weak point for failure in the future.
Yes, that is something you should keep an eye on. However, the emergency cable is so strong it doesn't even leave a mark on it. The dikes actually grip better than many others and they have the perfect angle to give you leverage. Not to be used on soft metals, of course. :)
Good point
hello friend, thank you for the video.. I think I purchased the same wheel drums as you, they're by acdelco.. I also have a 2000 sienna, i installed everything, however I used the original spring hardware, I replaced the shoes and drums.. adjusted the shoes accordingly, on the freeway I am getting some vibration when going over 60mph.. I noticed on the original drums there are weights, I am assuming they are for balancing.. The AcDelco drums have no weights, perhaps they come balaced from factory.. The tires were balaced at a tire shop a while ago.. so I don't think its that, the old drums I didn't experience vibrations, Have you experienced this with your installation?
Hi Tony, no I haven't, sorry.
Thanks for posting...my Sienna has more corrosion so may need to replace the backing plates. Your van is rust free so are you in the south west USA ?
No, I am up here in Canada :)
I see you got Wagner brand of break shoes. How are their stopping power? Are they quiet?
Yes, pretty quiet. Stopping power not as good as disk brakes, unfortunately. :)
The old shoes seemed to have a good amount of pad left on them, almost as much as the new ones. Were they making noise, is that what made you change them? How have those ac delco drums been for you, any noise now?
Yes, the old shoes had some pad left, but it was so old it didn't brake well anymore. No noise from the drums. :)
Hello. Do I have to bleed each corner of the vehicle? Or just the corner I replaced the wheel cylinder?
Hi Phillip, I would suggest bleeding all 4, starting with the farthest from the brake master cylinder. You could technically get away with only bleeding the one, but if air got into the other lines you will have trouble.
Me quede dormido viendo esta vídeo per muy interesante thanks😊
You're welcome! 😊
I do mine, one side at a time with both wheels and rims off so I can look at the other side when I can't remember exactly how it goes. 😁
I think most of us do it that way! :)
Nice job except your picture of the brakes was reversed from the side you were working.
Nothing gets past you, eh!
@@Pen_Pusher No worries, I was just confused for a second, because I was looking to see what was wrong with mine. For a second I thought I put mine in backwards.
متشکرم
At 11:54 you used a wire cuter pliers… don’t… you will cut the wire like that
Thanks. :)
15:32 Did you just cut off the parking brake cable? Why do you use cutters on springs and cables anyway? It should be done with Long Needle nose pliers, not cutters.
Believe it or not, the cutter has better grip and leverage. :)
@@Pen_Pusher It's designed to cut not to grab and pull. Even if you won't cut cable immediately it will leave the deep dent which eventually develop a crack -braking spot.
@@SergSpace The brake cable is so hard there is no sign of a dent. But, in general I agree with the point you are making. :)
Those old pads had some life left.
It does look like it, but they were more than 10 years old and needed to be replaced. :)