Awesome video. Good explanation of the basics. One bit of additional info: you mentioned the option of leaving the drum on or off when making the adjustment to improve brake performance, but if you're going through the effort of lifting the car, and removing the wheel, it would also be a good opportunity to clean out and remove old break dust that builds up in the enclosed drum. The loose dust reduces the shoes grip/braking power. You may want to use a brass wire brush, break-cleaner and a mask, and maybe a catch pan if you don't want to stain your floor with the runoff. You want to avoid breathing the break dust. It's bad stuff.
Thanks. I was just about to do my rear brakes and came to see what you had to say. Thanks for the tip about the offset hole in this model. FYI: In the 70's I learned the self adjust mechanism works when you brake the car in reverse. Since then, after adjusting the pads close to the drums, I back up slightly and brake hard several times to get the back brakes properly adjusted. I should also mention, it is a great idea to snap a few pictures of the brakes before removing anything, just in case you forget which spring or clip goes where.
Very good video! I kind of learned everything you covered the hard way by just doing it on a 1998 Sienna before watching your video. A couple of tips: at 2:50, it would have really helped if when you started to describe how it would look and work on the left side of the car, you had flipped the bolt-and-threaded-sleeve demo hardware you were using to illustrate how the automatic brake adjuster worked, and walked over to the left rear wheel. That way, it would visually match up with the actual orientation of the left rear wheel and very intuitively describe how you would have to turn the adjuster in the "opposite" direction. At 6:58, that's a great tip about a paint can opener - just didn't have one handy myself. And that last tip of which studs to mount the brake drum back on was a handy one - I figured that one out myself. No matter if you get the adjustment hole lined up or not, I find trying to fit a brake adjustment tool in there to turn the star wheel virtually impossible to do. A very poor design.
I have a 2002 sienna and you answered many of my questions with my rear brakes. I have learned over the past 2 years about these systems on this vehicle. I have replaced the entire brake system! module, pump, lines, master, everything on this van. Not a strong point about this generation van. Great video. Thank you
Last week engine was studdering when I let off the gas when going around 45-70mph. Then when got home noticed my brakes were going to the floor but only at slow speed. I pulled engine codes (got P1354), googled and found the problem was caused by bad oil control valve (OCV). Replaced the valve and problem (studder, brakes, code) was fixed. A couple good youtube videos on this. Somehow that valve must affect the vacuum booster but its strange how those 2 symptoms happen at same time and are related. It's brake related so thought I'd mention it here.
Absolutely true! I just experienced the same confusing set of symptoms, where loss of brake boost, as slowing, and rough running, not to mention a set of "Engine missing" codes was resolved with a new OCV, that regulates the intake valve timing. My code was 1349 I recall, a Toyota specific code my Actron OBD2 reader found, then Google to interpret. The valves ran $60-$70 each at O'Reilly, in Idaho Falls, half that on Amazon if you can wait. You need to remove the plastic engine cover to find them, to the right. One bolt and the connector, good luck not breaking the locking tab on the connector as you press it down. I added a little tape to hopefully keep the connectors together. But YES bad OCT messed up VVT, reduces manifold vacuum causing loss of brake boost, most noticeable when stopping, under 10 mph.
need some questions answered. I have an 01 and trying to get brembo drums and I wondered if the drums are supposed to have a LIP on the outer edge of the drum.
Be sure the e-brake is off. In the vid, Notice how there is two smaller holes aside of the larger one's which the lugs pass through? They're on opposite sides of the center hub opening. They should be threaded so you can pass a bolt through to press off the hub plate which is behind the drum. One should work. You can use both if its really stuck, to press off evenly. When re-mounting the drum, remove any corosion buildup using a wire brush, on the surfaces where the drum and hub meet: the spaces between and around the lugs on the hub, and holes on the drum. Use some anti-seize as well only in the same area to help avoid the issue next time maintenance is needed. Be sure the anti-seize doesn't get on the break shoe's or drum surface where they make contact.
This is basic beginner level auto shop class. I own a 98' Toyota's are easy to fix. Try wrenching a BMW or MiniCooper. . Sienna's go through control arms and ball joints. MOOG last 35-40K If it's covered with brake dust when you remove the drum. Unless you remove the adjuster screw and clean it. the self adjuster will not turn a filthy dragging thread. It has to turn easily to self adjust. Never use metallic pads.
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Awesome video. Good explanation of the basics. One bit of additional info: you mentioned the option of leaving the drum on or off when making the adjustment to improve brake performance, but if you're going through the effort of lifting the car, and removing the wheel, it would also be a good opportunity to clean out and remove old break dust that builds up in the enclosed drum. The loose dust reduces the shoes grip/braking power. You may want to use a brass wire brush, break-cleaner and a mask, and maybe a catch pan if you don't want to stain your floor with the runoff. You want to avoid breathing the break dust. It's bad stuff.
Thanks. I was just about to do my rear brakes and came to see what you had to say.
Thanks for the tip about the offset hole in this model.
FYI: In the 70's I learned the self adjust mechanism works when you brake the car in reverse. Since then, after adjusting the pads close to the drums, I back up slightly and brake hard several times to get the back brakes properly adjusted.
I should also mention, it is a great idea to snap a few pictures of the brakes before removing anything, just in case you forget which spring or clip goes where.
I’d really like to see some more video’s from you! Thanks for the content
Very good video! I kind of learned everything you covered the hard way by just doing it on a 1998 Sienna before watching your video.
A couple of tips: at 2:50, it would have really helped if when you started to describe how it would look and work on the left side of the car, you had flipped the bolt-and-threaded-sleeve demo hardware you were using to illustrate how the automatic brake adjuster worked, and walked over to the left rear wheel. That way, it would visually match up with the actual orientation of the left rear wheel and very intuitively describe how you would have to turn the adjuster in the "opposite" direction.
At 6:58, that's a great tip about a paint can opener - just didn't have one handy myself. And that last tip of which studs to mount the brake drum back on was a handy one - I figured that one out myself.
No matter if you get the adjustment hole lined up or not, I find trying to fit a brake adjustment tool in there to turn the star wheel virtually impossible to do. A very poor design.
This saved me a lot of money and effort. Thank you for being so generous with your time.
I have a 2002 sienna and you answered many of my questions with my rear brakes. I have learned over the past 2 years about these systems on this vehicle. I have replaced the entire brake system! module, pump, lines, master, everything on this van. Not a strong point about this generation van. Great video. Thank you
Thanks buddy I learned something new😂
thank you for the vid. I am helping my dad change his brakes. this made it super easy. Cheers
Thanks for help me do my adjustment in my rear brack. The other side are not vice-verse turn. It is the same side, I mean clock wise .
Last week engine was studdering when I let off the gas when going around 45-70mph. Then when got home noticed my brakes were going to the floor but only at slow speed. I pulled engine codes (got P1354), googled and found the problem was caused by bad oil control valve (OCV). Replaced the valve and problem (studder, brakes, code) was fixed. A couple good youtube videos on this. Somehow that valve must affect the vacuum booster but its strange how those 2 symptoms happen at same time and are related. It's brake related so thought I'd mention it here.
Absolutely true! I just experienced the same confusing set of symptoms, where loss of brake boost, as slowing, and rough running, not to mention a set of "Engine missing" codes was resolved with a new OCV, that regulates the intake valve timing. My code was 1349 I recall, a Toyota specific code my Actron OBD2 reader found, then Google to interpret. The valves ran $60-$70 each at O'Reilly, in Idaho Falls, half that on Amazon if you can wait. You need to remove the plastic engine cover to find them, to the right. One bolt and the connector, good luck not breaking the locking tab on the connector as you press it down. I added a little tape to hopefully keep the connectors together. But YES bad OCT messed up VVT, reduces manifold vacuum causing loss of brake boost, most noticeable when stopping, under 10 mph.
I usually put the parking brake on and then go in reverse and apply the brake. This does tighten emergency brake and makes brakes work better.
Thank you so much for your help.
Great vid! Thanks!
great video really helped me out thanks
2001 seienna valve clear ancestors adjusting
Very educational. thankyou
need some questions answered. I have an 01 and trying to get brembo drums and I wondered if the drums are supposed to have a LIP on the outer edge of the drum.
Thank you...good lesson!
Please advise what size of crew or Torx / Allen set you used to make the drum cover loose. I just could not take it off.
😅
8 X 1.25 bolt
Thanks dude!
How do I take off the drum?
Be sure the e-brake is off. In the vid, Notice how there is two smaller holes aside of the larger one's which the lugs pass through? They're on opposite sides of the center hub opening. They should be threaded so you can pass a bolt through to press off the hub plate which is behind the drum. One should work. You can use both if its really stuck, to press off evenly.
When re-mounting the drum, remove any corosion buildup using a wire brush, on the surfaces where the drum and hub meet: the spaces between and around the lugs on the hub, and holes on the drum. Use some anti-seize as well only in the same area to help avoid the issue next time maintenance is needed. Be sure the anti-seize doesn't get on the break shoe's or drum surface where they make contact.
You could also just try smacking the drum with a rubber mallet a few times and see if that breaks the bond.
This is basic beginner level auto shop class. I own a 98' Toyota's are easy to fix. Try wrenching a BMW or MiniCooper. . Sienna's go through control arms and ball joints. MOOG last 35-40K If it's covered with brake dust when you remove the drum. Unless you remove the adjuster screw and clean it. the self adjuster will not turn a filthy dragging thread. It has to turn easily to self adjust. Never use metallic pads.
Talk wayyyy to much