Agree with others - one of the clearest, well detailed videos on a repair job I've ever watched. The specificity of ea step was very helpful - great job! A 2004 Sienna XLE owner.
Great video and instructions, looks like the same setup for the 2012 4Runner. The socket and extension as you had it does not affect the torque. Only when you use an offset adapter other than at 90 degrees to the center line of the torque wrench will the torque be affected. Then you would use a formula for the actual torque. Did lots of helicopter maintenance in the Army using torque wrenches. Thanks again for the video!
@@A_Renaissance_Man What tape should I look for to adhere to the lubrication points? I like the idea; do you find it gives better/smoother shoe travel compared to greased metal-on-metal?
Thank you for asking. I used a high quality name brand Duct Tape. The shoe movement is so small that there has been no movement or bunching up of the tape on previous uses of this technique. I have not been back to this particular job yet but, I have had no issues with the brake rubbing after being released. I hope all goes well for you and this helps you keep your car going for a long time.
Very good video David! Was looking for one exactly like you are demonstrating cause I don't have a Chilton book ect. To do walk me through this install. It did clear up some things I wasn't certain about but clearly explained. I'm doing my wife's 09 Venza and needed this info to replace the emergency brake system correctly. Thank you, Joe
Great video (previously commented), Just finished replacing shoes on '04 Sienna without removing the hub - as mentioned - not much room to work! One hint I wanted to share - getting the retainer spring with hold down cups back on shoes was a chore given limited room to maneuver. Had helper push on back of retainer pin while I compressed the spring holder cup/spring (w fingers) while sliding the shoe into place on the backing plate. The whole spring/retainer assembly then slid into the slot and you could rotate base cup tab into the hole on shoe pretty easily. For me it was much easier than trying to push the cup down and turn 90 degrees once on the shoe - the pin always tried to rotate! Maybe this saves someone time and aggravation!
Thank you! Great video. The reassembly of the springs are the hardest part for me. I changed ours a couple of years ago and now I have to replace the dust Shield on the passenger side. I need to take pictures or get a diagram so I do not forget the proper sequence of assembly. If I did them every day for a while it would be a breeze, but after a couple of years It is not fun. Thank you for this very informative video. B
Thank you so much for posting this. I don't think I could have done it without your guide. On my Highlander I thought you had to install the wheel bearing first so I wish I would have thought to do the brake first like your video says to do.
great vid thanks..for sharing... what i like to do is test the spin and the brake before installing the rim that way i can see if the piston is retracting and not sticking.. had one fail and didnt catch it at first because the other caliper masked its function..food for thought...
Great video David, and very clear walk through. One thing that stood out for me was the use of high strength black tape in lieu of lubricating the shoe contact points/backing! The other was that no thread lock was used on the 4 attach bolts for the bearing assembly. I would have used medium strength thread lock just to be safe.
Excellent. Thank you very much. I actually used red lock tight which you can see at 14 minutes in the video but, I forgot to include that when I filmed the left side. I should have edited the footage into the video. Thank you for pointing that out.
Thanks for this! Could not for the life of me work out why I could not properly reassemble mine. The pins in the middle of each shoe were missing! No idea when that happebed as I've never had them off before 🤦♂️
Sometimes the drum won’t come loose without having to manually release the star nut expansion bolt at the bottom of the shoes, I’ve seen a lot of people not know that and completely destroy the whole setup. In fact, there’s another video of some yahoo doing just that on a Lexus SUV. Pretty much every Toyota and Lexus and other makes use this setup. There is a small access port for a slim tool, takes a few rotations. Just thought ide throw that out there if anyone is running into a stubborn drum that doesn’t want to break loose. 🔧 🇺🇸
Nice step by step video!! Thanks! Any additional info of adjusting the parking brake? I've got a 2017 sienna which is a very similar setup, but the parking brake is loose after doing the rear brakes.
Thank you. I hope all goes well for you. Be sure to set the star adjuster correctly on both sides or the parking brake will not hold well or at all ... Ask me how I know haha.
Great video! Thank you, David! One question, for the right wheel, will the self-adjusting bolt orientation be the same, dummy to the front and threaded portion to the rear? Thanks again!
What's the reason for using tape instead of lubricant at the shoe slide points? I think that the tape will fail, fall off and cause a host of new issues. Correct me if I am wrong.
The tape lasts for the life of the shoes and has not ever rubbed through on any vehicle I used that trick on. Anti-Seize is a mess and I just wanted to have a clean area should anyone have to go back into the job to replace the shoes as they only last 8-10 years before dry rotting and needs replacement again. As a final note, usually this is only done once and the car is sold or scrapped before needing a second application. You are free to do the job as instructed by the manufacturer as the instructions states to use anti-seize.
So let me start by saying, much of the information is going to help someone who knows nothing about a vehicle, but no real mechanic, shop or dealership is going to remove the hub to replace the brake pads. It creates more work, could affect the alignment, amongst other things. There's no reason taking things apart that aren't necessary! All you have to do is pop the top tension springs off take the pad retainers off then the pads will come right off and out the bottom, with the adjuster still attached, then you disconnect the cable, assemble the new ones and put them back in the same way.... People are replacing brakes not trying to restore the vehicle....
I know you didn't include the detail around adjustment of the E-Brake shoes but I am curious to when you know you have them at their proper clearance. I have an '11 Camry SE that has an issue with after releasing the E-Brake the shoes still rub when moving the wheel forward but not backwards. My wife really doesn't use her E-Brake unfortunately so I suspected some rusty components around the shoes and hardware but that turned out not to be the case. After trying to readjust (even backing the adjuster all the way down) the same issue happens so I'm now suspecting the cables are not allowing a full return (rusty themselves). Was just curious as to what is recommended to "properly" adjust those shoes?
@@user-bq2py9tl5l In fact, I did for the front one but amazingly the rear ones were fine. I had a cable luber from having a motorcycle and I used that to lubricate those just in case. I always try to use my parking brake every so once in a while to to keep things moving even if I don’t need it.
@@A_Renaissance_Man i was looking at your pin and it seems to be more C shaped than the one im dealing with. Will need to hope the dealer has a parts kit. Autozone didnt even know those shoes existed.
Last time I checked, the time was one hour each side, both sides are required so the book time for the Dealer Technician is two hours. That means the total replacement cost is $450 to $850 depending on where the work is done, i.e., east coast or west coast.
Well ... I did the right side before filming the left side so that is where I followed the official Toyota procedure and then filmed the left side. I would just go through the steps as best you can. There are always problems to overcome that interfere with the smoothness of the procedure shown on video.
Yes lots of detail but the viewing of what he was doing was poor just couldn't see his details explained which led me not to see what he was talking about, lol, needs better lighting better film footage. thanks
Agree with others - one of the clearest, well detailed videos on a repair job I've ever watched. The specificity of ea step was very helpful - great job! A 2004 Sienna XLE owner.
Thank you for taking the time to leave such a nice comment.
@@A_Renaissance_Man well I saw other videos and this is the best explained I find thanks 🙏
Great video and instructions, looks like the same setup for the 2012 4Runner. The socket and extension as you had it does not affect the torque. Only when you use an offset adapter other than at 90 degrees to the center line of the torque wrench will the torque be affected. Then you would use a formula for the actual torque. Did lots of helicopter maintenance in the Army using torque wrenches. Thanks again for the video!
Excellent. Thank you. My work was in power plant construction and that was way back when the earth was still cooling. Thank you again.
If tolerances of the adapter, socket, or wrench are poor, then it will affect the torque ultimately being delivered to a bolt or nut.
It's a good idea to spray some mild cleaner and then silicone grease into the exposed lip of the bearing, while you have the rotor off.
Excellent idea. Thank you.
@@A_Renaissance_Man Thanks for the video! Very helpful.
@@A_Renaissance_Man What tape should I look for to adhere to the lubrication points? I like the idea; do you find it gives better/smoother shoe travel compared to greased metal-on-metal?
Thank you for asking.
I used a high quality name brand Duct Tape.
The shoe movement is so small that there has been no movement or bunching up of the tape on previous uses of this technique. I have not been back to this particular job yet but, I have had no issues with the brake rubbing after being released.
I hope all goes well for you and this helps you keep your car going for a long time.
Very, Very useful video!!! Extremely detailed, THANKS!!! You're a good teacher!!! Front Puerto Rico, your student on the distance.
Thank you for leaving such a nice comment.
Very good video David! Was looking for one exactly like you are demonstrating cause I don't have a Chilton book ect. To do walk me through this install. It did clear up some things I wasn't certain about but clearly explained. I'm doing my wife's 09 Venza and needed this info to replace the emergency brake system correctly. Thank you, Joe
Your Welcome. You are the reason these videos are made.
Such a good tutorial, very complete. A lot of helpful information. Thanks David
Your welcome, I make these videos to help, I appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment.
Great video (previously commented), Just finished replacing shoes on '04 Sienna without removing the hub - as mentioned - not much room to work! One hint I wanted to share - getting the retainer spring with hold down cups back on shoes was a chore given limited room to maneuver.
Had helper push on back of retainer pin while I compressed the spring holder cup/spring (w fingers) while sliding the shoe into place on the backing plate. The whole spring/retainer assembly then slid into the slot and you could rotate base cup tab into the hole on shoe pretty easily. For me it was much easier than trying to push the cup down and turn 90 degrees once on the shoe - the pin always tried to rotate! Maybe this saves someone time and aggravation!
Thank you. Great idea that should help someone.
Thank you! Great video. The reassembly of the springs are the hardest part for me. I changed ours a couple of years ago and now I have to replace the dust Shield on the passenger side. I need to take pictures or get a diagram so I do not forget the proper sequence of assembly.
If I did them every day for a while it would be a breeze, but after a couple of years It is not fun.
Thank you for this very informative video.
B
Contracting it all the way is the only way I do it...wow those are clean brakes.
Thank you so much for posting this. I don't think I could have done it without your guide. On my Highlander I thought you had to install the wheel bearing first so I wish I would have thought to do the brake first like your video says to do.
Excellent. You are the reason I post these videos.
Great video ..I am doing a 2008 RX350 AWD and your instructions were a great help as the process is quite similar..
great vid thanks..for sharing... what i like to do is test the spin and the brake before installing the rim that way i can see if the piston is retracting and not sticking.. had one fail and didnt catch it at first because the other caliper masked its function..food for thought...
Great video David, and very clear walk through. One thing that stood out for me was the use of high strength black tape in lieu of lubricating the shoe contact points/backing! The other was that no thread lock was used on the 4 attach bolts for the bearing assembly. I would have used medium strength thread lock just to be safe.
Excellent. Thank you very much.
I actually used red lock tight which you can see at 14 minutes in the video but, I forgot to include that when I filmed the left side. I should have edited the footage into the video. Thank you for pointing that out.
This is the best guide for me for this job. Thank you this video
You are Welcome. I make these videos for you.
Friggin aye. Fantastic video! Way better than the A-1 video I watched too many times. Thank u
Your welcome
"Remember! If at first you don't succeed, quit!"
Exactly.
Thank you sir for taking your time, you saved my day😊 i love the way you educate me. But the tape instead of lubrcant is an error.
Your welcome. You are correct about the tape, however that is still working fine for me.
Thanks for this! Could not for the life of me work out why I could not properly reassemble mine. The pins in the middle of each shoe were missing! No idea when that happebed as I've never had them off before 🤦♂️
Your Welcome. I make these videos to help and I am glad that this helped you.
Tank you Garcías por la explicación yo pensé que no traían pastillas tipo tambor
De nada. Me alegra que te haya resultado útil este vicio.
I recommend to open the brake reservoir beause of the pressure of the caliper being compressed hope this helps some of you.
Thanks - got mine together in the proper order!
excellent 1st class tutorial , thank you so much !!! 10/10 A+ 😁
I am happy that this helped you.
Sometimes the drum won’t come loose without having to manually release the star nut expansion bolt at the bottom of the shoes, I’ve seen a lot of people not know that and completely destroy the whole setup. In fact, there’s another video of some yahoo doing just that on a Lexus SUV. Pretty much every Toyota and Lexus and other makes use this setup. There is a small access port for a slim tool, takes a few rotations. Just thought ide throw that out there if anyone is running into a stubborn drum that doesn’t want to break loose. 🔧 🇺🇸
Thank you
Massively important point & warning. 👍🏽👍🏽
Great video you would make a excellent teacher you explain it will and funny👍
Thank you very much. I am glad this helped you.
Awesome! Thanks so much for documenting this.
Your welcome. Happy to help.
using tape on the backing plate instead of lubricant is NOT a good idea.
Yeah. Had no idea what he did there...
Agreed that gets way to hot for that tape or any tape. Adhesive will melt.
You really did a good job on this drum brakes. Very 👍 👍 👍 👍 👍
Thank you
Thanks that was very helpful james bailey
Nice step by step video!! Thanks! Any additional info of adjusting the parking brake? I've got a 2017 sienna which is a very similar setup, but the parking brake is loose after doing the rear brakes.
I will do my camry 2009 hybrid soon. Thank you for the video.
Excellent. I hope all goes well.
A1 presentation, I will have a go at my Lexus IS 220d...
Thank you. I hope all goes well for you. Be sure to set the star adjuster correctly on both sides or the parking brake will not hold well or at all ... Ask me how I know haha.
Same applies to the Tundras, except you can’t remove the rear axle. First step is to employ, patience.
Verrrrry. Helpful. Thanks
Your welcome. Thank you for taking the time to leave a nice comment.
Don't take the cable spring luse just like the horseshoe clip of them attack the cable arm to the new brake shoe.
Thank you. It was very helpful.
Your welcome. These videos are made for you. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment.
Great video! Thank you, David! One question, for the right wheel, will the self-adjusting bolt orientation be the same, dummy to the front and threaded portion to the rear? Thanks again!
Yes, that is correct, threaded portion to the rear and the shoes to drum adjustment direction is the same too.
Thanks you
Your welcome. I make these videos for you
The dust cover plates for both left and right are incredibly over $900 for my 2007 Camry...just the dust plates....
Yes, they are rarely replaced. I recommend going to a junkyard if you need them.
Exelent video thank You god bless you 🙏
Your welcome and thank you for taking the time to leave such a nice comment
Very nice
Excellent video....Thank you
What's the reason for using tape instead of lubricant at the shoe slide points? I think that the tape will fail, fall off and cause a host of new issues. Correct me if I am wrong.
The tape lasts for the life of the shoes and has not ever rubbed through on any vehicle I used that trick on. Anti-Seize is a mess and I just wanted to have a clean area should anyone have to go back into the job to replace the shoes as they only last 8-10 years before dry rotting and needs replacement again.
As a final note, usually this is only done once and the car is sold or scrapped before needing a second application.
You are free to do the job as instructed by the manufacturer as the instructions states to use anti-seize.
@@A_Renaissance_Man ok thank you for the quick response.
So let me start by saying, much of the information is going to help someone who knows nothing about a vehicle, but no real mechanic, shop or dealership is going to remove the hub to replace the brake pads. It creates more work, could affect the alignment, amongst other things. There's no reason taking things apart that aren't necessary! All you have to do is pop the top tension springs off take the pad retainers off then the pads will come right off and out the bottom, with the adjuster still attached, then you disconnect the cable, assemble the new ones and put them back in the same way.... People are replacing brakes not trying to restore the vehicle....
Your videos are much better.
Changing parking brakes in a 2002 Highlander
Excellent. Great time to check the bearing and make sure that part is still ok too.
I know you didn't include the detail around adjustment of the E-Brake shoes but I am curious to when you know you have them at their proper clearance. I have an '11 Camry SE that has an issue with after releasing the E-Brake the shoes still rub when moving the wheel forward but not backwards. My wife really doesn't use her E-Brake unfortunately so I suspected some rusty components around the shoes and hardware but that turned out not to be the case. After trying to readjust (even backing the adjuster all the way down) the same issue happens so I'm now suspecting the cables are not allowing a full return (rusty themselves). Was just curious as to what is recommended to "properly" adjust those shoes?
Hey Michael you probably have to replace your parking brake cables.
@@user-bq2py9tl5l In fact, I did for the front one but amazingly the rear ones were fine. I had a cable luber from having a motorcycle and I used that to lubricate those just in case. I always try to use my parking brake every so once in a while to to keep things moving even if I don’t need it.
Curious of you noticed any co tact with the retainer pins/springs and the back of the hub bolts when they rotated.
There was about a quarter inch gap between the pin's spring retainer and the back of the hub. Contact would mean some sort of failure occured.
@@A_Renaissance_Man i was looking at your pin and it seems to be more C shaped than the one im dealing with. Will need to hope the dealer has a parts kit. Autozone didnt even know those shoes existed.
Whats the book time on this job?
Last time I checked, the time was one hour each side, both sides are required so the book time for the Dealer Technician is two hours. That means the total replacement cost is $450 to $850 depending on where the work is done, i.e., east coast or west coast.
Can you get the entire parking brake assembled? I just ripped my busted one out…I’m a novice and have only done regular brake jobs.
Well ... I did the right side before filming the left side so that is where I followed the official Toyota procedure and then filmed the left side.
I would just go through the steps as best you can. There are always problems to overcome that interfere with the smoothness of the procedure shown on video.
Is this same for 2006 gs430v
I would say similar but, the instructions were specific to the three cars mentioned in the video.
@@A_Renaissance_Man the little top hat broke off my straight pin from the assembly and it’s been rubbing on my rotor kinda binding it
It's "Chilton's". Not "Clintons". :)
Roger that
ALWAYS LUBE GUIDE PINS WHEN REMOVED DOES NOT MATTER IF IT HAS FACTORY LUBE IF REMOVED EVWN FOR INSPECTION JUST LUBE IT AGAIN PLEASE....
I lube Toyota and BMW's but not Mercedes S-Class and all Volvos.
There's no way to take out the wheel hub solid.
Yes lots of detail but the viewing of what he was doing was poor just couldn't see his details explained which led me not to see what he was talking about, lol, needs better lighting better film footage. thanks