Appreciate the comment. Loll. Having long winded videos annoys me to this day. Loll. Like I ain’t trying watch your vlog bro….cut the camera, ain’t no one trying watch your trip to the parts store loll
@@HighPerformanceNetwork exactly. Pointless crap but nothing about the title. I watched 5 before I got to yours. I'm swapping CA to SR and looking to see where the OEM Boost controller goes. Thanks mate
get rid of the "T" in the line closest to the wastegate actuator. The compressor side of the boost controller is on the bottom, the wastegate side is on the side of the boost controller. Try that with this same test and there will be no wastegate creep like you are seeing here. It will not begin to open till the pressure overcomes the ball and spring in the controller as designed.
Is an external wg not located on the manifold and actually on the piping? Like in this video I have the same set up in my pt. Looking to get/install boost gauge and controller so any information is awesome and much needed thanks again
You can see how quickly the wastegate starts to reroute exhaust away from the turbine. This is far from ideal as it creates a lot of lag. That’s why the AEM TruBoost Gauge/Controller is a better option because not only does it give you the ability to change your boost level on the fly with a high and low setting but, more importantly it allows you to delay when the wastegate begins to crack so that you have almost no lag and also protection against boost spikes. I just bought one for $200 and couldn’t be happier with my setup on my MR2T
Neg Ative yea there’s been leaps of technology increase over the years. One thing to note is the diaphragm will react a bit more response in this video being there is no exhaust pressure pushing on the valve. But your logic is sound👍🏽. Thanks for watching and the comment
High Performance Network Great job on the presentation. I’ll use this video to help the younger guys in my crew as they start to get close to turbocharging. I wish I had made a companion video on the TruBoost gauge before I installed it.
Neg Ative that would have been cool. I want to produce more content and even have a s13 sitting for nearly two years now. But running businesses have become my priority. Maybe one day I will get around to making some more videos.
Thanks for the instructions. Definitely and clearly explains it!! Some people learn by: ..reading it ..watching it [ I am the latter ] Cheer's Mate!! 🇺🇸🇬🇧🇫🇴🏴🏴🇸🇪🇩🇪🇩🇰 American's Love Australian's
So what do you do with the vacuum line your using from the actuator that connects to the solenoid do you leave that off and open...? Cause you have it hooked up the the boost tap and gauge...
What about the blowoff valve? It has another bleed plug on it, where would you connect that too?? I want to turbo my car, the turbo im getting has a internal waste and getting a blow off valve to, i dont if i need that?
+Oswaldo Castillo Hi, if your referring to a greddy type-s style BOV that has two plugs (one on top and one on the side) then you would connect the main pressure source plug and leave the second plug off. From my understanding the second plug is used for high performance racing application where you may want even more control over the BOV, but i could be wrong about that lol just leave it off is what i do
So my wastegate can hold up to 10 psi, to be safe can i adjust the arm down to 8 psi using a compressor and use a mbc/ebc to push maybe up only to 9 psi? The reason why is i dont want em to spike up to 11/12 psi..
Fiz Bakar so if I understand the question correctly. You have a spring for 10 psi currently. But would like to have a boost controller turn it down to 8psi to prevent overboost? .....k if that’s the case no controller can turn down the boost below the spring pressure. My suggestion would be to source a weaker spring then use a controller to bring the psi up to what you want once the 8psi becomes boring loll
I instal corect boost gauge on Turbo Diesel without boost control ...when i start the engine its stay on 0.1 bar. Its not change when i drive .... I dont know whats goin on . Please help.
I don’t know much about stuff but how can that boost controller work? It’s not even on the same line to the actuator?! Am I missing something or is this video wrong?
Oscar Barberena hey thanks for the comment. An auto meter mechanical gauge should be fairly inexpensive. I tend to stay away from the Chinese stuff and stick to known good manufacturers. Autometer, greddy & aem.
Notice on the run with pressure pulses its bleed off at different pressures everytime you "charge it" in this video. Must have a ball & Spring in there causes that unpredictable boost level. 11psi, 13psi, 10psi, 12psi it cant make up its mind
brother i have a dout. in this video you explained how to boost the pressure. my dout is can we fit blow off valve in this type of waste gate turbo vehicle? i have a diesel turbo crdi vehicle. in the vehicle the turbo have waste gate valve and actuators. so can i fit blow off valve this my car? plz reply
Honestly i'm not certain about diesel. But being they have no throttle bodies i doubt a BOV would work....I could be wrong though. Maybe someone else can help on this one. Would be great to hear other comments
*Just buy a spring and tie it to the wastegate arm, so the wastegate will open in higher pressure. Make sure to fine tune the spring tension to the pressure u want.*
+Justin Hoth You could install the check valves anywhere in the system once its facing the throttle body. HKS made some small disk shaped ones that acts as a filter and one way check valve if i'm not mistaken. But you don't have to install a check valve.
caran96 in that case boost would only go to the actuator spring pressure. Which depending on age of spring would be approx 8-10 psi. Generally speaking of course.
@@HighPerformanceNetwork and how much pressure we talk about when controller is activated? I may be wrong, but controller is solenoid which allows vacuum to go to the actuator?
+Aaron Ferguson You can check out the Part 1 video. Hope that helps ruclips.net/video/pT0p5SH5hqk/видео.html You could also send me a message via facebook or Google+ possibly i can help get you sorted. Thanks for watching
nu blir det här på svenska du har fel när du säger att man ökar laddtrycket genom att skruva åt ventilen. det är ju när du släpper ut luft (wg öppnar mindre) som man ökar laddtryck. dvs du säger det tvärtom
Ecoboost World hmm I can't say definitely the same procedure in this video will work. From what I'm seeing the mustangs have there bov on compressor housing like the Borg warners efr series. I can do some research and get back to you
i have TSI engine witk supercharger and turbo. it is fully stock. when i step on gas from lower rpms which supercharger is being utilized and keeping it there to accelerate unitl cutoff there is absolutely no problem on power output but during cruising speeds such as 2200 rpm, if i let the pedal go for half second and if i press it again, there is a instant jolt, then it accelerates continuously. whenever i do this, it happens. what can be said? a sticking wastegate? any comment is highly appreciated. thanks for efforts spent on very informative videos. all the best. ( i replaced n75 valve to be sure)
cosku arsiray hmmm. I’m not very familiar with multi forced induction setups. But if I had to take a shot at it. It does sound like fuel trim between the transitional point of when the turbo is coming on while the supercharger is about to start pumping positive displacement. Could be some form of overlap where either timing or fuel curve may have to be adjusted. Again. No expert in this area. But it’s a guess based on your description
Same engine here in mij Ibiza Cupra, just instald a boostcontroller, and the car whas not happy at all, did you find out what your problem whas? Kind regards.
One of the more accurate ways would be a mechanical boost gauge. Important to plum it directly off the intake manifold. Some will argue yah n nah. But for all intended purposes. You can't loose with it off the intake plenum. Hope this helps buddy. And thanks for watching
Mitchell HürenKamp ahh you can. Most ppl wouldn't recommend it though as you are interfering with the line pressure between the compressor source and actuator. So I like to take it from off the intake mani if available. If all you got available is that spot. Then technically it should work. But hey....nothing like good old fashion testing 👍 hope this helped
+16vastraturbo I'm not understanding what your saying bro. 1:58 in I tighten the screw on the MBC creating less bleed off, and you can see the boost level raise in relation to the actuator arm moving from the closed position. Is it something I should clarify in future videos, its worth noting
+High Performance Network What he is saying is all you did by tightening the nut was return to actuator pressure, the whole point of a boost controller is to create more pressure than what the actuator is designed to open at. You have this hooked up wrong. Pressure side is right, but the other should not go to atmosphere is should go to actuator.
+Aaron Couture thank you for the comment. But this method is not incorrect. The way in which this mbc works is by reducing the positive pressure the actuator diaphragm would other wise reference to open the flap lever. This is done by bleeding the pressure signal off in the case of a single inlet actuator. Now some come with two, such as the ct9 from a Toyota starlet or 2jz twins where they have a solenoid that can switch low / high boost......But back to the point. Without venting the pressure signal the diaphragm will open unless added spring pressure / tension is used. As you may see with adjustable rod length actuators. Welcome you to test which ever method on your own and let me know the findings
This is not a bleed valve controller.. its a ball&spring and is intended to be connected inline from the source to the actuator.. Watch back your footage dude.. 0:56 The controller is not connected.. the actuator moves at around 5psi and is fully open at 16psi 1:56 The controller is connected.. the actuator still moves at 5psi and never fully opens and you only reach 13psi.. all you're doing is venting the rest to atmosphere.. it's not going to the actuator or the engine, it's just wasted... 2:07 The controller is set to a higher boost, yes.. but your now just using the actuator spring pressure and the controller will only vent if you reach the set boost, which is probably now 20+ but you'll never reach that as the actuator is working as normal, like it would without the controller even connected. The actuator moves at 5psi and is fully open at 16psi.. like it was at 0:56! It needs to be connected as I said above, then the actuator will have 0psi until the controller set spring tension is overcome and the ball moves to allow airflow to open the actuator.. only then you'll be able to create more boost than standard... set the controller to 20psi the actuator wont move at all until 20psi then it will fully open. On a working engine/turbo the way you have it set up will work, but you wont boost any quicker as the actuator is still opening as it normally would but wont open as far so, yes you'll create more boost but not a lot, and not very quickly.. Set it up correctly and you'll spool the turbo much quicker and harder as the actuator stays closed and your not bypassing any exhaust gasses, its all spinning the compressor wheel until the set boost is reached and the actuator opens.. You just have to be careful this way as you will overboost and spike past the set boost as the compressor wheel is still accelerating when the blow-off/actuator opens, as it wont slow down instantly.. if you want 20psi, set it for 18psi and you'll spike around 20psi and settle off around 18psi but by that time you'll be changing gears and the actuator is closed again and will boost back up around 20psi with that spike :) PS.. obviously 20psi was just an example based on where the controller was probably set after you turned it up, for anyone increasing boost this way to it slowly and start from stock boost pressure.. Not a problem for us Turbo Diesel owners.. currently running 33psi, with spikes around 35/36psi ;)
+David B I'm not sure why you think you know what your talking about. But as I said before do an install your way and then mine record the results and let me know. Back an forth banter is just a waste of time. Obviously you feel you are correct and I know i am correct as the vehicle owner uses it and it performs the way it should. I do admire the fact you are willing to express your opinion, but without testing or data. Opinions are just that. If I'm incorrect I have no reserves as no one can know it all. This method worked and continues to work not just for me but I'm sure others that has watched the video Let me know how your test results when you do it
Sunderasen V Maniam Everyone knows the boost gauge source is the back of the manifold. He did it this way so you can test the boost controller setting before installing it on the car.
@@negativeindustrial um, his comment had absolutely nothing to do with gauge placement and everything to do with improper boost controller installation.
Definitely recommend a wide band air/fuel gauge to monitor what is going on if increasing boost. Some factory cars go pig rich with boost so can handle a modest increase and still maintain a safe A/F ratio. Also adjustable fuel pressure regulators can crank up additional fuel if needed. Of course having your ECM tuned and perhaps larger fuel injectors installed is preferred.
Guy, you T-ed off the line before it connects to the controller. That is not the way to do it. It does nothing that way. For all the people saying thanks, good luck lol.
How about you make a video showing the correct way. Maybe those people will watch your “correct” way. Rather than ask what type BC. You gonna hit with the automatic it’s false loll. I’m interested in seeing your video. Please do share when you make it. Enjoy your day!
@@HighPerformanceNetwork you connected it like it you were using a two port boost controller solenoid. You don't need the T fitting for this boost controller
This guy is a dumbass. I have been turboing cars for 15+ years. And not once have I ever hooked a mbc this way internal or external gates. There are no real difference between the two minus the obvious.
driftkids13 thanks for the comment. But if you feel you know better, then why don't you show us your way. As I'm sure you know. A bleed valve and a ball an spring are installed differently.
You never broke down if it was a bleed or ball and spring design. Yes if it's a bleed type your installation is correct, but if it's a ball and spring then you will mount it inline. Like I said you never specified which one you are using. We can say we are both wrong or we can say we are both right. Like I said you didn't really specify which design you was using.
Engine Boost pressure is not measured at the wastegate line. At the end when you close the “bleed” valve and the wastegate line pressure increases you are actually opening the wastegate sooner which will make less engine boost pressure.....
Do not hook up an MBC the way this video describes. This is completely wrong and will not work. All this does is just release pressure faster and re closes the wastegate quicker. It does not change the pressure at which the wastegate opens. Instead of having that tee in there he should have just put the MBC outlet to the wastegate.
How about you make a video with your description. Rather than ask what type of MBC is shown here (bleed type or ball & spring) you just flat out state it’s incorrect. Not the way to try and get your point across. Maybe find out information before stating your opinion. Looking forward to seeing your video btw.
@@HighPerformanceNetwork I don't need to make a video, this is simply setup wrong. It's not up to me to ask what type of MBC you are using, you made the video and you should have stated it yourself. Most MBC's are ball and spring style, so 99% of watchers will assume that. And I recognized the particular unit you were showing as a Voodoo IV brand unit which are all ball and spring. Because of this, in your video, the wastegate was still opening at the same PSI as others have pointed out.
I'm gonna give you some time to really think about what you just said. Then possibly once you finish looking on Google. If you still haven't adjusted your comment. I may just have to give you a free lesson sir.
I got a better suggestion. Instead of having a pissing match. How bout you make a video explaining your way.I didn't create this channel to play battle troll with people. If you legit got a better way, then lets see it.
High Performance Network I told you already. If you're using a bleed-type controller, you need to pill the reference line. A turbo can feed a lot more cfm then you're attempting to bleed off. That's why a restrictor is needed in the reference line.
![Bleed Valves Explained [GO FAST BRETT]](/img/1.gif)
Finally a proper video without burnout and going to get donuts . Thanks
Appreciate the comment. Loll. Having long winded videos annoys me to this day. Loll. Like I ain’t trying watch your vlog bro….cut the camera, ain’t no one trying watch your trip to the parts store loll
@@HighPerformanceNetwork exactly. Pointless crap but nothing about the title. I watched 5 before I got to yours. I'm swapping CA to SR and looking to see where the OEM Boost controller goes. Thanks mate
@@sparklingsams3155 hey if you need a spare Sr20det block and transmission n harness. Let me know. I’m swapping to a vq35.
@@HighPerformanceNetwork thanks mate. I got 2 sr20det engines and I'm in Melbourne Australia. Sr20det running engine is about $5-9K here 😅
@@sparklingsams3155 oh nice!! Hope it goes well for you chief. Will be restarting content on the channel soon
Yes I, this is what my instructions were missing. Thanks!
get rid of the "T" in the line closest to the wastegate actuator. The compressor side of the boost controller is on the bottom, the wastegate side is on the side of the boost controller. Try that with this same test and there will be no wastegate creep like you are seeing here. It will not begin to open till the pressure overcomes the ball and spring in the controller as designed.
Is an external wg not located on the manifold and actually on the piping? Like in this video I have the same set up in my pt. Looking to get/install boost gauge and controller so any information is awesome and much needed thanks again
Thanks Zoom. This is the info I was needing, took a while to find you.
Thank you for this breds! I'm about to start building this winter and your simple visual was quite helpful. Salute!
Nice instructional, mate! That clears a lot of things up for me! :D
Glad you found it useful. Be sure to check out the new videos on the rotating assembly.
Still opens at 7psi.
Easy way to undestand the function...👍👍👍
You can see how quickly the wastegate starts to reroute exhaust away from the turbine. This is far from ideal as it creates a lot of lag. That’s why the AEM TruBoost Gauge/Controller is a better option because not only does it give you the ability to change your boost level on the fly with a high and low setting but, more importantly it allows you to delay when the wastegate begins to crack so that you have almost no lag and also protection against boost spikes.
I just bought one for $200 and couldn’t be happier with my setup on my MR2T
Neg Ative yea there’s been leaps of technology increase over the years. One thing to note is the diaphragm will react a bit more response in this video being there is no exhaust pressure pushing on the valve. But your logic is sound👍🏽. Thanks for watching and the comment
High Performance Network
Great job on the presentation. I’ll use this video to help the younger guys in my crew as they start to get close to turbocharging. I wish I had made a companion video on the TruBoost gauge before I installed it.
Neg Ative that would have been cool. I want to produce more content and even have a s13 sitting for nearly two years now. But running businesses have become my priority. Maybe one day I will get around to making some more videos.
Thank you for informing me from India
Thanks mate your video made it simple
Thanks for the instructions.
Definitely and clearly explains it!!
Some people learn by:
..reading it
..watching it
[ I am the latter ]
Cheer's Mate!!
🇺🇸🇬🇧🇫🇴🏴🏴🇸🇪🇩🇪🇩🇰
American's Love Australian's
So what do you do with the vacuum line your using from the actuator that connects to the solenoid do you leave that off and open...? Cause you have it hooked up the the boost tap and gauge...
So you can just leave the one end of the controller open like that or does it need to connect to somethething?
What about the blowoff valve? It has another bleed plug on it, where would you connect that too?? I want to turbo my car, the turbo im getting has a internal waste and getting a blow off valve to, i dont if i need that?
+Oswaldo Castillo Hi, if your referring to a greddy type-s style BOV that has two plugs (one on top and one on the side) then you would connect the main pressure source plug and leave the second plug off. From my understanding the second plug is used for high performance racing application where you may want even more control over the BOV, but i could be wrong about that lol just leave it off is what i do
So my wastegate can hold up to 10 psi, to be safe can i adjust the arm down to 8 psi using a compressor and use a mbc/ebc to push maybe up only to 9 psi? The reason why is i dont want em to spike up to 11/12 psi..
Fiz Bakar so if I understand the question correctly. You have a spring for 10 psi currently. But would like to have a boost controller turn it down to 8psi to prevent overboost? .....k if that’s the case no controller can turn down the boost below the spring pressure. My suggestion would be to source a weaker spring then use a controller to bring the psi up to what you want once the 8psi becomes boring loll
I instal corect boost gauge on Turbo Diesel without boost control ...when i start the engine its stay on 0.1 bar.
Its not change when i drive ....
I dont know whats goin on .
Please help.
I don’t know much about stuff but how can that boost controller work? It’s not even on the same line to the actuator?! Am I missing something or is this video wrong?
It's a good video. I want the bike pump to turbo tester set up video.
may just have to do one then :)
@@HighPerformanceNetwork
Please do! I would really apperciate it
@@azeissler1987 Actually gonna shoot some video doing mods to a stock 2jz
Ver y interesting thank you
I need a boost guage for the polar in my car what brand do you recommend? Affordable if possible lol
Oscar Barberena hey thanks for the comment. An auto meter mechanical gauge should be fairly inexpensive. I tend to stay away from the Chinese stuff and stick to known good manufacturers. Autometer, greddy & aem.
Notice on the run with pressure pulses its bleed off at different pressures everytime you "charge it" in this video.
Must have a ball & Spring in there causes that unpredictable boost level. 11psi, 13psi, 10psi, 12psi it cant make up its mind
brother i have a dout. in this video you explained how to boost the pressure. my dout is can we fit blow off valve in this type of waste gate turbo vehicle? i have a diesel turbo crdi vehicle. in the vehicle the turbo have waste gate valve and actuators. so can i fit blow off valve this my car? plz reply
Honestly i'm not certain about diesel. But being they have no throttle bodies i doubt a BOV would work....I could be wrong though. Maybe someone else can help on this one. Would be great to hear other comments
ok any way thank you
*Just buy a spring and tie it to the wastegate arm, so the wastegate will open in higher pressure. Make sure to fine tune the spring tension to the pressure u want.*
OokTiaopi yea sure. If only it worked like that. Loll
hell yes. Just wonder about where in the line the check valve goes or if it matters.
+Justin Hoth You could install the check valves anywhere in the system once its facing the throttle body. HKS made some small disk shaped ones that acts as a filter and one way check valve if i'm not mistaken. But you don't have to install a check valve.
what happens if I disconnect turbo boost controller and connect actuator directly to vacuum pump?
caran96 in that case boost would only go to the actuator spring pressure. Which depending on age of spring would be approx 8-10 psi. Generally speaking of course.
@@HighPerformanceNetwork and how much pressure we talk about when controller is activated? I may be wrong, but controller is solenoid which allows vacuum to go to the actuator?
caran96
You’re thinking of an electronic boost controller. This is the $25 Manual eBay special type boost controller. Effective but crude.
Thank you very much
very nice and interesting.
I have a manual boost controller for my turbo but it doesnt have the internal wastegate so how would i run my boost controller
+Aaron Ferguson You can check out the Part 1 video. Hope that helps ruclips.net/video/pT0p5SH5hqk/видео.html You could also send me a message via facebook or Google+ possibly i can help get you sorted. Thanks for watching
Will this work for vgt turbo in navara d40?
What’s the purpose of installing a manual boost controller
nu blir det här på svenska
du har fel när du säger att man ökar laddtrycket genom att skruva åt ventilen.
det är ju när du släpper ut luft (wg öppnar mindre) som man ökar laddtryck.
dvs du säger det tvärtom
Det är bra, på negerfan Erik!
Will it work on a ecoboost mustang with stock turbo ?
Ecoboost World hmm I can't say definitely the same procedure in this video will work. From what I'm seeing the mustangs have there bov on compressor housing like the Borg warners efr series. I can do some research and get back to you
i have TSI engine witk supercharger and turbo. it is fully stock. when i step on gas from lower rpms which supercharger is being utilized and keeping it there to accelerate unitl cutoff there is absolutely no problem on power output but during cruising speeds such as 2200 rpm, if i let the pedal go for half second and if i press it again, there is a instant jolt, then it accelerates continuously. whenever i do this, it happens. what can be said? a sticking wastegate? any comment is highly appreciated. thanks for efforts spent on very informative videos. all the best. ( i replaced n75 valve to be sure)
cosku arsiray hmmm. I’m not very familiar with multi forced induction setups. But if I had to take a shot at it. It does sound like fuel trim between the transitional point of when the turbo is coming on while the supercharger is about to start pumping positive displacement. Could be some form of overlap where either timing or fuel curve may have to be adjusted. Again. No expert in this area. But it’s a guess based on your description
Same engine here in mij Ibiza Cupra, just instald a boostcontroller, and the car whas not happy at all, did you find out what your problem whas?
Kind regards.
The wastegate actually crack open at 5psi seen here
Noticed that too haha..
What boost gauge is that?
Hello does it work with any plastic (T)or there is a special one
Hey. A plastic one works fine. But depending on your desired boost level. You may have to use a metal barb.
Hey for Golf4 tdi 130 it's possible ?
Could you make a video on how to install the hks evc noost controller on a evo 9.
shus Garage hey. Unfortunately I don’t have access to an Evo 9. However if you send a pm to our fb page I maybe able to assist you
how can u test boost to see what u are pushing
One of the more accurate ways would be a mechanical boost gauge. Important to plum it directly off the intake manifold. Some will argue yah n nah. But for all intended purposes. You can't loose with it off the intake plenum. Hope this helps buddy. And thanks for watching
+High Performance Network thank u
+the one your welcome 👍
Hjh
can you mount a boost gauge on the actuator? (putting T piece between the hose?)
Mitchell HürenKamp ahh you can. Most ppl wouldn't recommend it though as you are interfering with the line pressure between the compressor source and actuator. So I like to take it from off the intake mani if available. If all you got available is that spot. Then technically it should work. But hey....nothing like good old fashion testing 👍 hope this helped
nice work!!
thanks for explain
Would this work on a
Diesel van
Yes
More air means you need more fuel
Какой фирмы Bus Controller?
that's all well and dandy but your only limiting the boost you all ready had your not increasing boost at all.....
+16vastraturbo I'm not understanding what your saying bro. 1:58 in I tighten the screw on the MBC creating less bleed off, and you can see the boost level raise in relation to the actuator arm moving from the closed position.
Is it something I should clarify in future videos, its worth noting
+High Performance Network What he is saying is all you did by tightening the nut was return to actuator pressure, the whole point of a boost controller is to create more pressure than what the actuator is designed to open at. You have this hooked up wrong. Pressure side is right, but the other should not go to atmosphere is should go to actuator.
+Aaron Couture thank you for the comment. But this method is not incorrect. The way in which this mbc works is by reducing the positive pressure the actuator diaphragm would other wise reference to open the flap lever. This is done by bleeding the pressure signal off in the case of a single inlet actuator. Now some come with two, such as the ct9 from a Toyota starlet or 2jz twins where they have a solenoid that can switch low / high boost......But back to the point. Without venting the pressure signal the diaphragm will open unless added spring pressure / tension is used. As you may see with adjustable rod length actuators. Welcome you to test which ever method on your own and let me know the findings
This is not a bleed valve controller.. its a ball&spring and is intended to be connected inline from the source to the actuator..
Watch back your footage dude..
0:56 The controller is not connected.. the actuator moves at around 5psi and is fully open at 16psi
1:56 The controller is connected.. the actuator still moves at 5psi and never fully opens and you only reach 13psi.. all you're doing is venting the rest to atmosphere.. it's not going to the actuator or the engine, it's just wasted...
2:07 The controller is set to a higher boost, yes.. but your now just using the actuator spring pressure and the controller will only vent if you reach the set boost, which is probably now 20+ but you'll never reach that as the actuator is working as normal, like it would without the controller even connected.
The actuator moves at 5psi and is fully open at 16psi.. like it was at 0:56!
It needs to be connected as I said above, then the actuator will have 0psi until the controller set spring tension is overcome and the ball moves to allow airflow to open the actuator.. only then you'll be able to create more boost than standard... set the controller to 20psi the actuator wont move at all until 20psi then it will fully open.
On a working engine/turbo the way you have it set up will work, but you wont boost any quicker as the actuator is still opening as it normally would but wont open as far so, yes you'll create more boost but not a lot, and not very quickly.. Set it up correctly and you'll spool the turbo much quicker and harder as the actuator stays closed and your not bypassing any exhaust gasses, its all spinning the compressor wheel until the set boost is reached and the actuator opens.. You just have to be careful this way as you will overboost and spike past the set boost as the compressor wheel is still accelerating when the blow-off/actuator opens, as it wont slow down instantly.. if you want 20psi, set it for 18psi and you'll spike around 20psi and settle off around 18psi but by that time you'll be changing gears and the actuator is closed again and will boost back up around 20psi with that spike :)
PS.. obviously 20psi was just an example based on where the controller was probably set after you turned it up, for anyone increasing boost this way to it slowly and start from stock boost pressure.. Not a problem for us Turbo Diesel owners.. currently running 33psi, with spikes around 35/36psi ;)
+David B I'm not sure why you think you know what your talking about. But as I said before do an install your way and then mine record the results and let me know. Back an forth banter is just a waste of time. Obviously you feel you are correct and I know i am correct as the vehicle owner uses it and it performs the way it should.
I do admire the fact you are willing to express your opinion, but without testing or data. Opinions are just that. If I'm incorrect I have no reserves as no one can know it all. This method worked and continues to work not just for me but I'm sure others that has watched the video
Let me know how your test results when you do it
Wrong conections
Thank you!!
Your welcome. I'm glad this video helped you
awsome ✋💪👍
Amel Muminovic respect bro!!!
Funny how many people don't know the difference between a manual boost controller and a bleed valve.
Thanks!
Wrong connection, the boost controller should be connected in line before actuator without the Tee.
Sunderasen V Maniam
Everyone knows the boost gauge source is the back of the manifold. He did it this way so you can test the boost controller setting before installing it on the car.
@@negativeindustrial um, his comment had absolutely nothing to do with gauge placement and everything to do with improper boost controller installation.
More boost without tune equals run lean and burn holes in your pistons....Go ahead
Just that simple huh! And when you say more would be nice to include a reference. +1 psi is More.
Thanks for sharing
Definitely recommend a wide band air/fuel gauge to monitor what is going on if increasing boost. Some factory cars go pig rich with boost so can handle a modest increase and still maintain a safe A/F ratio. Also adjustable fuel pressure regulators can crank up additional fuel if needed. Of course having your ECM tuned and perhaps larger fuel injectors installed is preferred.
good
Guy, you T-ed off the line before it connects to the controller. That is not the way to do it. It does nothing that way. For all the people saying thanks, good luck lol.
How about you make a video showing the correct way. Maybe those people will watch your “correct” way. Rather than ask what type BC. You gonna hit with the automatic it’s false loll. I’m interested in seeing your video. Please do share when you make it. Enjoy your day!
@@HighPerformanceNetwork you connected it like it you were using a two port boost controller solenoid. You don't need the T fitting for this boost controller
Em português ..
Não se entende nada do que alguns videos estão para ai a falar porra
Nice goodluckmrgmrgchannel
This is wrong.
This guy is a dumbass. I have been turboing cars for 15+ years. And not once have I ever hooked a mbc this way internal or external gates. There are no real difference between the two minus the obvious.
driftkids13 thanks for the comment. But if you feel you know better, then why don't you show us your way. As I'm sure you know. A bleed valve and a ball an spring are installed differently.
You never broke down if it was a bleed or ball and spring design. Yes if it's a bleed type your installation is correct, but if it's a ball and spring then you will mount it inline. Like I said you never specified which one you are using.
We can say we are both wrong or we can say we are both right. Like I said you didn't really specify which design you was using.
driftkids13 I will make the amendments in the description. I have shot a new video explaining the differences of the two.
Engine Boost pressure is not measured at the wastegate line.
At the end when you close the “bleed” valve and the wastegate line pressure increases you are actually opening the wastegate sooner which will make less engine boost pressure.....
Do not hook up an MBC the way this video describes. This is completely wrong and will not work. All this does is just release pressure faster and re closes the wastegate quicker. It does not change the pressure at which the wastegate opens. Instead of having that tee in there he should have just put the MBC outlet to the wastegate.
How about you make a video with your description. Rather than ask what type of MBC is shown here (bleed type or ball & spring) you just flat out state it’s incorrect. Not the way to try and get your point across. Maybe find out information before stating your opinion. Looking forward to seeing your video btw.
@@HighPerformanceNetwork I don't need to make a video, this is simply setup wrong. It's not up to me to ask what type of MBC you are using, you made the video and you should have stated it yourself. Most MBC's are ball and spring style, so 99% of watchers will assume that. And I recognized the particular unit you were showing as a Voodoo IV brand unit which are all ball and spring. Because of this, in your video, the wastegate was still opening at the same PSI as others have pointed out.
This video is wrong. If you're going to bleed the wg line to raise boost, you have to install a restrictor in the line before the T. Video FAIL
I'm gonna give you some time to really think about what you just said. Then possibly once you finish looking on Google. If you still haven't adjusted your comment. I may just have to give you a free lesson sir.
High Performance Network By all means. Maybe you'll get it right the second time around. ;)
But in all seriousness, if you need help understanding how a boost controller works, hit me up.
I got a better suggestion. Instead of having a pissing match. How bout you make a video explaining your way.I didn't create this channel to play battle troll with people. If you legit got a better way, then lets see it.
High Performance Network I told you already. If you're using a bleed-type controller, you need to pill the reference line. A turbo can feed a lot more cfm then you're attempting to bleed off. That's why a restrictor is needed in the reference line.
Stupid demo. What effect does it make if it isnt looped in the circuit?
🚂
Better off going electronic
Tu parles trop vite tu fais la démonstration trop vite on a pas le temps de comprendre et tu fais pas bien voir les branchements dommage
Dont install mbc. Terrible idea, get the car mapped properly! These mbc are the reason why so many cars engines die