I'm glad you guys put up videos like this to help out novices. (even though I don't need the help, I just found your video because I recently bought the boost tee/boost gauge pack)
Hi, I just bought a Turbosmart Boost Tee. Installed it exactly as the instructions say, yet when I start with the knob closed all the way I get an accurate reading of about 10psi (factory on my diesel) yet when I open up the knob to add more boost the gauge just does nothing then jumps up to 5psi on full load! I know I am hitting at least 16psi because the safety pressure relief valve in the manifold opens up at that pressure and makes a massive hissing sound. I noted in your instructions that "Ensure that there is nothing but the boost controller in the hose between the pressure source and the wastegate actuator, ie tee pieces for boost gauge" so how exactly are we meant to gauge pressure if we can't even read it off a boost gauge :l How do I remedy this problem, I am trying to get 15psi but if I can't see this on the boost gauge there is no point in having the tee
It's a bit of personal choice, but you will get slightly more response and less chance of boost spiking by running the signal straight from the turbo as the pressure change wont have to work its way to the manifold before it gets to the boost tee.
@manosAmfiali Hi there, for tech advice go to the Turbosmart Tech Forum or post your question on the turbosmartonline on the boost controllers page. That's where the tech support guys will see it and will be able to help you out.
Quick question, any reason why when this product is made with a ball and spring design it would also contain a bleed valve? Boost spikes suck, but doesn't a bleed valve set up cause the air fuel mixture to run rich?
+Sir Ginge The ball and spring in our Boost Tee is not used to regulate boost pressure, it acts as a restriction in the line until about 3psi of pressure is built up, at which point the spring is overcome and air will start to flow to your wastegate allowing it to open. This feature helps to spool your turbo quicker. The air that is bled off from the system through the Boost Tee is negligible and will cause no issues with your fueling and AFRs, and if you do have an issue with bleeding any air off at all you can use our In-Cabin version which allows you to recirculate the air back into the intake system through the vent nipple.
Hey guys, is there another benefit besides raising boost PSI ourselves? Does the car has to be re-tuned when installing and staying on pro-tune boost level? Thanks guys! :)
can someone tell me how this kind of boost controller works. is it just like a pressure regulator on an air compressor or is it like one of them leak off controllers
Correct. As you wind out the spindle on the boost tee, this will allow for more air to be bled away from your wastegate, which acts as artificial spring base pressure, resulting in you achieving more boost! We usually recommend a few clicks at a time until you get a handle on your particular setup.
@@TurbosmartHQ thank you yeah i will keep the clicks in mind and hopefully remember the half turn baseline but first will run the engine on 0.5 bars and see what power the result is and go up from there maybe replace the tee with a spring package after final boost is established
Q-?- FG xr6 t mk2, how does the ECU react to a boost controller? I’ve read a few lines saying it clashes and will put it into limp mode on over boost? Cheers
I’ll Reply to my self 😂 So after a few weeks I’ve ran it at about 6 clicks (from zero to 6+), which equated to 10-11 pounds. Reasonable difference from the factory 8psI. I put the controller before the boost sensor. Factory ecu adapted really well. Provided you don’t try to shove an arse full of boost into it, and stay off the limiter she’s golden. I tried opening it up, 3/4, 1/2 and anything over 6 or so clicks made erratic boost and DID put the car into limp mode, not a big deal. Bigger intercooler was a must, and a better trans cooler. The stock Injectors are probably close to their limit but I’ve not seen anything adverse. So Yes or no? : yep 👍🏻
Looks like a good product, about how much $ does it cost? Got a simple video or link about how/where I can hook up a vac/boost gauge on my 06 1.9tdi VW? - thanks
i just got a boost controller and i turned it to far where the spring and ball fell out cause the damn arrows was misleading (go for cheap controllers yaay lol ) anyways i seen you toke the ball and spring out of this one so my question is , is it necessary for it to be in there for it to work right or do I need to just order a new and take the hit
It will still work without it, it is probably there to give it the 'click' when you turn the knob but it won't make the tee stop working. If you want to be sure it's not going to fail though our Tee's are tried and tested.
I got my car with the boost control already installed. But the check engine light is on and I believe it's because of the sensor that you say to leave connected to keep "the ecu happy" I see the sensor is still plugged in, but it is cap off with no hoses attached. How would I connect the hoses back on????
Hi, The only way you can safely use it is if you leave it adjusted all the way to the negative direction, If you don't know what factory boost is and if you don't have a boost gauge then you should not be installing a boost teee.
Hi, With newer diesel engines you have to be careful as a lot use VNT turbos (variable geometry) and will not work with the boost tee. Also you need to be aware that raising the boost alone will play with the air fuel ratio in your engine, you would ideally need some way to monitor this. There may be flash tuning services available for your car which would give an increase in boost and power while maintaining safe AFR's. There are plenty of services out there and google is your friend to find a local tuner. If you use the Boost Tee in a safe manner with the proper supporting mods though you will have a lot of success.
Hi, If you are getting 4psi then either you have a lighter spring than you thought or you have such high exhaust pressure that it's forcing the valve open earlier than expected. The boost tee cannot drop the pressure any lower than the base pressure achieved by running a line directly from your compressor cover (or boost reference port) to the wastegate.
+Turbosmart thats what it was. exhuast back pressure. i ran my car strait piped right after down pipe from turbo. opened right at 8spi at lowest setting. seems that a exhuast upgrade is due. thanks.
Hi Antony, You don't need to block it off for everything to work, however if you are going to be driving in particularly dirty or dusty conditions and you want to make sure it stays clean inside then you could block it off.
you mentioned at 1.53 "about below the factory settings" are you referring to Evo8 factory boost settings or lowest settings on the Turbosmart boost controller? Thanks
We are saying that you can't go below the base spring pressure in the wastegate you are using. So not necessarily the factory boost setting as this is controlled via the ECU in most cases, but the boost level you would get if you connected the boost reference line straight to the wastegate.
you can if you have an internal waste gate you don't even need the tee, their will be a adjustable rod on the side of your turbo you have to lengthen that rod it will lower boost pressure. its fairly sensitive to id say 1 and 1/2 turns will be all you need, but really why do you want less booooost?
doyouwanttofuk While adjusting the preload on the actuator will adjust pressure, it is not the ideal way to go about it. Also, to determine the minimum pressure you can run you can put a vacuum line straight on the pressure source on the turbo and attach it directly to the wastegate. Whatever boost level you peak at is the minimum that your system is capable of producing. Adjusting the preload will adjust how far the wastegate can open, which is why you will get different boost levels for different amounts of preload. Too much preload is a bad thing though, as you will limit flow and can get overboosting, and too little can lead to a lot of boost drop-off as the engine speed increases as the gate will be open so far that too much gas is diverted.
The ball and spring act as a gate which require pressure to overcome (it delays the boost pressure from getting to the wastegate), this makes boost response better but if you are building boost too quickly it is possible to overshoot your target if the Tee doesn't let your wastegate see pressure quickly enough.
Jasper Wightman But if you REMOVE the ball and spring how is the Boost Tee going to control boost?! The ball and spring is the core function of any (ball/spring type) manual boost controller. How can a MBC function without it? More so...how does removing it guard against boost spikes?
755hp The ball and spring is only one part of the operation of the Boost Tee, it is there to act as a restrictor in the first few psi of boost you build before it releases the pressure signal to the wastegate (this is only there to help boost build more quickly). The knob you screw in and out is actually adjusting a needle valve which varies the size of the orifice that the air bleeds out of, so the more air you bleed out the less pressure your wastegate is going to be seeing and the more boost pressure it will need to produce. So removing the ball and spring will mean that your gate will see boost pressure immediately and won't get a chance to build boost so quickly it spikes above your desired pressure.
Turbosmart I thought there were two types of MBCs; ball/spring and then bleed valve. So based on that, are you saying this Boost Tee can "transform" from a ball/spring type MBC to a bleed type MBC by removing the ball and spring inside it??! Otherwise it sounds like you can't adjust the spring-force outputs (Fs = kx) by twisting the knob causing compression in the spring ("normal" ball/spring MBCs) but rather the needle valve to bleed out air. If that is it then essentially this Boost Tee combines ball/spring and bleed valve into one functioning system. Is that it then?
755hp There are two types of MBC, ours is a bleed type. With the ball/spring type you are talking about, they work by adjusting the preload on the spring above the ball so you require more boost pressure to overcome the spring pressure. In ours we use a needle valve to vary the size of the orifice that the air bleeds out of. The ball/spring in ours is there only to reduce the amount of time it takes to spool the turbo, so it is not able to be converted from one MBC type to the other. You can find an exploded diagram on our website here: shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.830533/it.A/id.39/.f
Soooooooo...... The line going to the solenoid is removed 100% completely and not connected to the waste gate anymore? In other words the line from the gate to the solenoid is now connected to the boost controller??
Hi, you can check out the setup instructions here: www.turbosmart.com/technical-articles/manual-boost-controller-installation/ for a parralel twin setup, but if you have any follow up questions, then please feel free to email sales@turbosmart.com.au
I have a 2003 wrx stock. Just installed my turbosmart boost tee with the knob fully closed my car only boost up to 10psi which is wrong it supposed to be 13.1 to 13.8 around that area. I decided to turn the knob one click and it now boosting 15psi to 16psi. Can somebody tell me why this is happening.
Hi Roanne, have you used new vacuum lines when installing the Boost Tee? There are usually restrictor pills in the stock lines, which might cause issues. Also, with the Boost Tee fully closed so it is sending all the air pressure to your actuator you would expect to see roughly spring pressure in the wastegate (which should be between 7-10 psi, the same as if you just run a vacuum line from the turbo to the actuator). If you like you can contact us at Tech@turbosmart.com.au for more information.
Rowena Wamil Are you able to send us some photos showing the Tee and how it is all plumbed in, you can use the above mentioned email (tech@turbosmart.com.au)
john mar My stock boost is 14psi, so with your turbo boost controller, how much more increase do you think its safe(not running lean), I would like to hear your experinces-I understand you hold no responsibility for that. But I like to hear your advice. Thanks
+Juan Jaramillo When setting up a boost tee you need to do it in conjunction with a boost gauge, or on a dyno with a boost sensor attached. You will need to set it to the negative position and work your way to the plus about 1/4 turn at a time until you get to your desired boost. If 1/4 turn at a time isn't having much effect you can turn it a bit more.
Hi Riley, On the rb25det, you basically run the tee on the silicone vacuum hose between the intercooler pipe (pressure source) and the wastegate actuator, which means disconnecting the factory solenoid found behind your airbox.
These poxy things, we used them on several vehicles, half of them work ok, the other half of them are flimsy crap the adjustments fail and they're rendered useless before ya even install them
It's a simple Boost Controller, so it lets you control boost - ie turn it up higher than the factory unit, and adjust it to your needs.
I'm glad you guys put up videos like this to help out novices. (even though I don't need the help, I just found your video because I recently bought the boost tee/boost gauge pack)
Is it ok to install the boost adjuster along the same line that runs to a boost gauge?
Hi, I just bought a Turbosmart Boost Tee. Installed it exactly as the instructions say, yet when I start with the knob closed all the way I get an accurate reading of about 10psi (factory on my diesel) yet when I open up the knob to add more boost the gauge just does nothing then jumps up to 5psi on full load! I know I am hitting at least 16psi because the safety pressure relief valve in the manifold opens up at that pressure and makes a massive hissing sound. I noted in your instructions that "Ensure that there is nothing but the boost controller in the hose between the pressure source and the wastegate actuator, ie tee pieces for boost gauge" so how exactly are we meant to gauge pressure if we can't even read it off a boost gauge :l How do I remedy this problem, I am trying to get 15psi but if I can't see this on the boost gauge there is no point in having the tee
I know this is crazy old, but did you ever remedy the issue?
so this is basically the same thing as changing the spring rate on your wastegate?
Pretty much yeah
Is there any reason why its not a good idea to take the pressure source directly from the inlet manifold?
It's a bit of personal choice, but you will get slightly more response and less chance of boost spiking by running the signal straight from the turbo as the pressure change wont have to work its way to the manifold before it gets to the boost tee.
i can play the first word in this video time and time again!
tuuuuuus-mas-booo-sty!
Haha. Is it our Aussie accent?
Turbosmart may just be that
it was defiantly not the accent, it sounded like he was laughing when he said it
@manosAmfiali
Hi there, for tech advice go to the Turbosmart Tech Forum or post your question on the turbosmartonline on the boost controllers page. That's where the tech support guys will see it and will be able to help you out.
Quick question, any reason why when this product is made with a ball and spring design it would also contain a bleed valve? Boost spikes suck, but doesn't a bleed valve set up cause the air fuel mixture to run rich?
+Sir Ginge The ball and spring in our Boost Tee is not used to regulate boost pressure, it acts as a restriction in the line until about 3psi of pressure is built up, at which point the spring is overcome and air will start to flow to your wastegate allowing it to open. This feature helps to spool your turbo quicker.
The air that is bled off from the system through the Boost Tee is negligible and will cause no issues with your fueling and AFRs, and if you do have an issue with bleeding any air off at all you can use our In-Cabin version which allows you to recirculate the air back into the intake system through the vent nipple.
@@TurbosmartHQ Thank you sir.
what size are the turbosmart silicone hoses?
To increase the boost, where should i turn the boost dial? It is to the left or counter clockwiese rite? To the right/clockwiese is to reduce boost?
Hey guys, is there another benefit besides raising boost PSI ourselves? Does the car has to be re-tuned when installing and staying on pro-tune boost level? Thanks guys! :)
Yea you would need to get retuned but 2 to 3 psi doesnt need a tune but on diesels you can increase it way more as diesels like to run lean
Please assistance, I installed the turbosmart bov for diesel , I have an modded ISF2.8TDI....I do not know which way to place the controller arrows
Please reach out to our technical support team for further assistance!
You connected one line to the wastegate, disconnected the line from the solenoid but where does the second blue line go to?
Pressure Source -> Boost Tee Inlet -> Boost Tee Outlet -> Wastegate boost assisted port.
can someone tell me how this kind of boost controller works. is it just like a pressure regulator on an air compressor or is it like one of them leak off controllers
It is a bleed valve so it removes pressure from the system, and you vary the amount removed by turning the knob.
so i can get a wastegate and set it up with a 0.5 bar spring and then i can increase the boost to say 1 bar with the boost -tee?
Correct. As you wind out the spindle on the boost tee, this will allow for more air to be bled away from your wastegate, which acts as artificial spring base pressure, resulting in you achieving more boost! We usually recommend a few clicks at a time until you get a handle on your particular setup.
@@TurbosmartHQ thank you yeah i will keep the clicks in mind and hopefully remember the half turn baseline but first will run the engine on 0.5 bars and see what power the result is and go up from there maybe replace the tee with a spring package after final boost is established
Q-?- FG xr6 t mk2, how does the ECU react to a boost controller? I’ve read a few lines saying it clashes and will put it into limp mode on over boost?
Cheers
I’ll Reply to my self 😂
So after a few weeks I’ve ran it at about 6 clicks (from zero to 6+), which equated to 10-11 pounds. Reasonable difference from the factory 8psI.
I put the controller before the boost sensor.
Factory ecu adapted really well.
Provided you don’t try to shove an arse full of boost into it, and stay off the limiter she’s golden.
I tried opening it up, 3/4, 1/2 and anything over 6 or so clicks made erratic boost and DID put the car into limp mode, not a big deal.
Bigger intercooler was a must, and a better trans cooler.
The stock Injectors are probably close to their limit but I’ve not seen anything adverse.
So Yes or no? : yep 👍🏻
@@shotfirer-yf7ub Yeah did the same on my barra comes on boost heaps harder too!
Looks like a good product, about how much $ does it cost? Got a simple video or link about how/where I can hook up a vac/boost gauge on my 06 1.9tdi VW? - thanks
i just got a boost controller and i turned it to far where the spring and ball fell out cause the damn arrows was misleading (go for cheap controllers yaay lol ) anyways i seen you toke the ball and spring out of this one so my question is , is it necessary for it to be in there for it to work right or do I need to just order a new and take the hit
It will still work without it, it is probably there to give it the 'click' when you turn the knob but it won't make the tee stop working. If you want to be sure it's not going to fail though our Tee's are tried and tested.
I got my car with the boost control already installed. But the check engine light is on and I believe it's because of the sensor that you say to leave connected to keep "the ecu happy" I see the sensor is still plugged in, but it is cap off with no hoses attached. How would I connect the hoses back on????
I PUT THIS BOOST TEE IN MY COROLLA TURBO,MY COROLLA HAS NORMAL PRESSURE 0,6 IF I WANT TO PUT 0,8 HOW MANY MOVES MUST DO?FRIENDLY FROM GREECE
what size hose 4mm or 5mm ??
Either will be fine, just make sure you clamp it.
i have a veloster turbo twin scroll.. no gauge so i have no clue what stock boost is.. can i still use this on my vehicle safely
Hi,
The only way you can safely use it is if you leave it adjusted all the way to the negative direction, If you don't know what factory boost is and if you don't have a boost gauge then you should not be installing a boost teee.
+Turbosmart i just ordered a turbosmart boost gauge
Excellent! :-D
Hi i have a 2010 hyundai santa fe turbo diesel. Will this work on this car and what can i expect from this?
Hi,
With newer diesel engines you have to be careful as a lot use VNT turbos (variable geometry) and will not work with the boost tee. Also you need to be aware that raising the boost alone will play with the air fuel ratio in your engine, you would ideally need some way to monitor this. There may be flash tuning services available for your car which would give an increase in boost and power while maintaining safe AFR's. There are plenty of services out there and google is your friend to find a local tuner. If you use the Boost Tee in a safe manner with the proper supporting mods though you will have a lot of success.
ok so i used your boost T on my external waste gate... the waste gate spring is supposedly 8 psi... but i managed to set the boost to 4psi???
Hi,
If you are getting 4psi then either you have a lighter spring than you thought or you have such high exhaust pressure that it's forcing the valve open earlier than expected. The boost tee cannot drop the pressure any lower than the base pressure achieved by running a line directly from your compressor cover (or boost reference port) to the wastegate.
+Turbosmart thats what it was. exhuast back pressure. i ran my car strait piped right after down pipe from turbo. opened right at 8spi at lowest setting. seems that a exhuast upgrade is due. thanks.
Hey mate do u know how your removed the old vacuum line and you removed it from the censor do you have to block that sensor or can it stay open
Hi Antony,
You don't need to block it off for everything to work, however if you are going to be driving in particularly dirty or dusty conditions and you want to make sure it stays clean inside then you could block it off.
Would this work in golf 7 1.4 tsi?
you mentioned at 1.53 "about below the factory settings" are you referring to Evo8 factory boost settings or lowest settings on the Turbosmart boost controller? Thanks
We are saying that you can't go below the base spring pressure in the wastegate you are using. So not necessarily the factory boost setting as this is controlled via the ECU in most cases, but the boost level you would get if you connected the boost reference line straight to the wastegate.
Hold on, I can't reduce the boost lower than the original boost pressure? My car is running on 1 bar, can I reduce it to just 0.8?
you can if you have an internal waste gate you don't even need the tee, their will be a adjustable rod on the side of your turbo you have to lengthen that rod it will lower boost pressure. its fairly sensitive to id say 1 and 1/2 turns will be all you need, but really why do you want less booooost?
doyouwanttofuk While adjusting the preload on the actuator will adjust pressure, it is not the ideal way to go about it. Also, to determine the minimum pressure you can run you can put a vacuum line straight on the pressure source on the turbo and attach it directly to the wastegate. Whatever boost level you peak at is the minimum that your system is capable of producing. Adjusting the preload will adjust how far the wastegate can open, which is why you will get different boost levels for different amounts of preload. Too much preload is a bad thing though, as you will limit flow and can get overboosting, and too little can lead to a lot of boost drop-off as the engine speed increases as the gate will be open so far that too much gas is diverted.
Will this work on my ba xr6t with a fg engine in it? It's currently on 10psi tune thanks to nizpro but just seeking a little more boost.
Hi! Won't this mess up my A/F ratios?
Hi,
Yes, it is highly recommended you check air/fuel mix when adjusting boost pressure to avoid any engine issue
So how is it possible that this Boost Tee reduces boost spiking by REMOVING the ball and spring?
The ball and spring act as a gate which require pressure to overcome (it delays the boost pressure from getting to the wastegate), this makes boost response better but if you are building boost too quickly it is possible to overshoot your target if the Tee doesn't let your wastegate see pressure quickly enough.
Jasper Wightman But if you REMOVE the ball and spring how is the Boost Tee going to control boost?! The ball and spring is the core function of any (ball/spring type) manual boost controller. How can a MBC function without it? More so...how does removing it guard against boost spikes?
755hp The ball and spring is only one part of the operation of the Boost Tee, it is there to act as a restrictor in the first few psi of boost you build before it releases the pressure signal to the wastegate (this is only there to help boost build more quickly). The knob you screw in and out is actually adjusting a needle valve which varies the size of the orifice that the air bleeds out of, so the more air you bleed out the less pressure your wastegate is going to be seeing and the more boost pressure it will need to produce. So removing the ball and spring will mean that your gate will see boost pressure immediately and won't get a chance to build boost so quickly it spikes above your desired pressure.
Turbosmart I thought there were two types of MBCs; ball/spring and then bleed valve. So based on that, are you saying this Boost Tee can "transform" from a ball/spring type MBC to a bleed type MBC by removing the ball and spring inside it??!
Otherwise it sounds like you can't adjust the spring-force outputs (Fs = kx) by twisting the knob causing compression in the spring ("normal" ball/spring MBCs) but rather the needle valve to bleed out air. If that is it then essentially this Boost Tee combines ball/spring and bleed valve into one functioning system.
Is that it then?
755hp There are two types of MBC, ours is a bleed type. With the ball/spring type you are talking about, they work by adjusting the preload on the spring above the ball so you require more boost pressure to overcome the spring pressure. In ours we use a needle valve to vary the size of the orifice that the air bleeds out of. The ball/spring in ours is there only to reduce the amount of time it takes to spool the turbo, so it is not able to be converted from one MBC type to the other. You can find an exploded diagram on our website here: shopping.netsuite.com/s.nl/c.830533/it.A/id.39/.f
@drdouche1 It's an Evo 8 with the Evo 9 grille and bumper bar:)
Well spotted!
Soooooooo...... The line going to the solenoid is removed 100% completely and not connected to the waste gate anymore? In other words the line from the gate to the solenoid is now connected to the boost controller??
Will this work with twin turbos or will i need to buy 2? Looking at getting one for my 1994 300zx twin turbo, but not sure if only one will suffice
Hi, you can check out the setup instructions here: www.turbosmart.com/technical-articles/manual-boost-controller-installation/ for a parralel twin setup, but if you have any follow up questions, then please feel free to email sales@turbosmart.com.au
NICE AND EASY HIGH QUALITY PERFORMANCE PARTS THANK TURBOSMART
gostei do vídeo ótima explicação, obrigado
I have a 2003 wrx stock. Just installed my turbosmart boost tee with the knob fully closed my car only boost up to 10psi which is wrong it supposed to be 13.1 to 13.8 around that area. I decided to turn the knob one click and it now boosting 15psi to 16psi. Can somebody tell me why this is happening.
Hi Roanne, have you used new vacuum lines when installing the Boost Tee? There are usually restrictor pills in the stock lines, which might cause issues. Also, with the Boost Tee fully closed so it is sending all the air pressure to your actuator you would expect to see roughly spring pressure in the wastegate (which should be between 7-10 psi, the same as if you just run a vacuum line from the turbo to the actuator). If you like you can contact us at Tech@turbosmart.com.au for more information.
Turbosmart Yes I did use a new vacuum line with new clamps. The factory Vacuum line was remove and replace with the same sizes hoses.
Rowena Wamil Are you able to send us some photos showing the Tee and how it is all plumbed in, you can use the above mentioned email (tech@turbosmart.com.au)
from where we can buy this please tell
Hi, you can jump on turbosmart.com for more information!
can i crank this up to 25 psi on a ko4 gti or mazdaspeed3? i just bout 2 for both cars
Install directions for a Miata msm?
would this work on 2001 audi s3??
Yes it would!!
thanks mate
john mar My stock boost is 14psi, so with your turbo boost controller, how much more increase do you think its safe(not running lean), I would like to hear your experinces-I understand you hold no responsibility for that. But I like to hear your advice. Thanks
I got a SRT4 and I don't know how to set up in 17 PSI
+Juan Jaramillo When setting up a boost tee you need to do it in conjunction with a boost gauge, or on a dyno with a boost sensor attached. You will need to set it to the negative position and work your way to the plus about 1/4 turn at a time until you get to your desired boost. If 1/4 turn at a time isn't having much effect you can turn it a bit more.
Great video
Thanks!
mazdaspeed 3? how?
@mario4817 Correct.
how do I install on A r33 skyline with a rb25det
Hi Riley,
On the rb25det, you basically run the tee on the silicone vacuum hose between the intercooler pipe (pressure source) and the wastegate actuator, which means disconnecting the factory solenoid found behind your airbox.
Obg pelas dicas !
dont tell me what to do
good vid
1320video guy!!
there is a lot of fake china made products in my country... how can i confidently tell that it is a turbosmart original product?
These poxy things, we used them on several vehicles, half of them work ok, the other half of them are flimsy crap the adjustments fail and they're rendered useless before ya even install them
Fuck man they use them shitty square airfilters in like 1998 Magna's, K&N FTW
That's an evo 9.. just saying
Music is crap and too loud! Wtf