You get an air-tight fit from that red multi-lip silicone seal; the goop isn't needed. I lube the interior of the pipe with liquid soap before I insert the replacement fitting. The goop will make a big hassle out of removing the flange later should it become cracked.
I would've added some spacers/wedges or shoved some of the flooring under the flange at the front where the flange sits on the wood so that the front and back of the flange is at the same height.
You are absolutely correct, more than half of that flange isn't screwed tight and flush to the flooring, it must may turn out that it isn't 'still going to be fine'...even IF the floor is only 1/8" thick which I doubt.
Thanks for the info. Out of all the videos I've watched, maybe 2 dozen. Your the second to use wax ring with no plastic insert. I'll let you know if it works.
We did everything you done and after 3 days it started leaking again. What is next. Could the toilet be broken. I have replaced it all 5 time. Thanks for your help. You have the been the easiest to explain this
So much easier to cut with a multi tool. Use your sawzall to score the old fitting and simply chisel it out. Install a new flange with a metal ring so you can rotate it for the bolts.
@diywithcontractorken.6124 I think he's referring to an Oscillating Multi-tool; the various attachments are designed for, among other things, grout removal, scraping old paint/caulk, sanding (with the little
I appreciate the description of the circular blade on your drill; I have a few that came in an old Kennedy machinist tool chest I found on the curb🤯, thanks!
I have a situation where my 4" 90° fitting hub is above the surface of my basement floor. After I install the floor I'll be cutting about roughly 2" of the 90° hub out, will this toilet flange seat in what's left of the fitting?
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 According to the specs I've seen the 4" push tite is supposed to fit the I.D. of a 4" pipe. "886-GP 886-GA Inside 4" One-Piece, PushTite with Extended Outlet". I figure once I cut the hub of the 4" 90° fitting there will be a little of the 4" pipe still inside.
So mark where the screws are going to go for the flange then drill holes in the concrete, vacuum the dust out, the put glue in the hole then put in a bunch of toothpicks or a wood dowel, let it dry then screw the flange down.
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 well the idea being before you start removing the tank, bowl and all, some food coloring (or similar safe colorant) is added to the tank water, flush a time or two, then look for where the water might be dripping, seeping from. Then start the removal & repair steps. Thank you
Very good video but shouldn't you go below the toilet to check for leaks before you call it a success? I noticed that most of these install videos leave this step out.
I see what your saying, but that minor angle (exaggerated by the camera 'fisheye') is more than adequately compensated for by the wax ring. The important thing is that the flange is adequately secured to the floor, which overall must be in good, solid condition, enabling the toilet to be held fast to the floor, with a wax ring preventing any moisture from between the mating surfaces
This is not a concrete floor. If it was I would need to pre drill holes where the screws are going to go for the flange then vacuum the dust out and glue wood rods or toothpicks into that hole the I could screw down the flange.
Paul you will need to mark exactly where the screws are going to go then drill a hole in the concrete. A good size hole at least 1/4" tp 1/2" wide. Vacuum out the dust then glue a wood dowel rod or tooth picks into the hole. Now you have something to screw to!
I would recommend you superglue the rubber gasket to the bottom of the flange. If you ever have to repair the flange or remove it, the red rubber has a nasty habit of coming off and staying stuck down in the pipe and you have to dig it out. Also spend a few bucks more and get a wax free seal, they work so much better and no messy wax to contend with!
Absolutely NOT. That is the absolute worst idea that anyone has ever come up with. If you ever have to go back behind someone who has done that and uninstall that toilet, you'll know what I'm talking about. If the flange, ring and toilet are installed correctly, there is no need for that AT ALL.
I'm removing the toilet in the house we recently purchased, primarily because of the caulked outer perimeter or, more specifically, what that caulk likely was used for; hiding a leak between the toilet and floor
Why didn’t you cut the new flooring so the flange would be even?why didn’t you cut the new flooring si it would sit on subfloor and be even with floor?
It looked like the flange was sitting partly on the new flooring and partly on the sub-floor. Maybe that was just the angle of the camera that made it look that way. But if it was, would it be a good idea to put shims on the sub-floor side of where the flange sits to make it level with the finished floor? Thanks for the video.
Хобби
I'm about to try this. It looks easy thank you for sharing your knowledge making the job easy for people willing to learn something new every day
Awesome Ricardo! Good luck!
Very helpful. Very clear. Thanks!
Right on Gerry!
I just finished installing one of these they work great. Can be a pain to remove old flange bit after that its easy
You got it done! Good job.
You get an air-tight fit from that red multi-lip silicone seal; the goop isn't needed. I lube the interior of the pipe with liquid soap before I insert the replacement fitting. The goop will make a big hassle out of removing the flange later should it become cracked.
Yeah, I thought the same thing about the goo. I hope he doesn't ever have to remove the repair.
I would've added some spacers/wedges or shoved some of the flooring under the flange at the front where the flange sits on the wood so that the front and back of the flange is at the same height.
Yea I could have used some plastic shims for that but it’s only 1/8” difference so it’s still going to be fine.
You are absolutely correct, more than half of that flange isn't screwed tight and flush to the flooring, it must may turn out that it isn't 'still going to be fine'...even IF the floor is only 1/8" thick which I doubt.
Yep, first timer. Thank you for the easy tutorial!
Welcome Christal! Glad it helps.
How did it go?
Thanks for the info. Out of all the videos I've watched, maybe 2 dozen. Your the second to use wax ring with no plastic insert. I'll let you know if it works.
Welcome. Glad it helped. Good luck!
Can you us this 3" flange on a 4" pipe drain ?? I ask this because of the rubber rings on the bottom of the flange looks like it would seal.
No. It won't be a tight seal. You don't want to take shortcuts when it comes to plumbing!
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 Thanks , I have one more question , do they make a flange that can go inside a 4" drain pipe.
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 You already did
@@coolbrownboy64 yes they make them for 3” & 4”
@@checkit6699 where u get at? Ace? Hd?
We did everything you done and after 3 days it started leaking again. What is next. Could the toilet be broken. I have replaced it all 5 time. Thanks for your help. You have the been the easiest to explain this
Leaking from the ceiling below or leaking out from the bottom of the toilet?
So much easier to cut with a multi tool. Use your sawzall to score the old fitting and simply chisel it out. Install a new flange with a metal ring so you can rotate it for the bolts.
You mean a Dremel ?
@diywithcontractorken.6124 I think he's referring to an Oscillating Multi-tool; the various attachments are designed for, among other things, grout removal, scraping old paint/caulk, sanding (with the little
I appreciate the description of the circular blade on your drill; I have a few that came in an old Kennedy machinist tool chest I found on the curb🤯, thanks!
I have a situation where my 4" 90° fitting hub is above the surface of my basement floor. After I install the floor I'll be cutting about roughly 2" of the 90° hub out, will this toilet flange seat in what's left of the fitting?
Yes you can get a 3" flange like this one and it will fit into a 4" drain pipe.
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 According to the specs I've seen the 4" push tite is supposed to fit the I.D. of a 4" pipe. "886-GP 886-GA Inside 4" One-Piece, PushTite with Extended Outlet". I figure once I cut the hub of the 4" 90° fitting there will be a little of the 4" pipe still inside.
Great info .... But I need a video that the flange broke on a cement slab floor.
So mark where the screws are going to go for the flange then drill holes in the concrete, vacuum the dust out, the put glue in the hole then put in a bunch of toothpicks or a wood dowel, let it dry then screw the flange down.
Thanks ...@@diywithcontractorken.6124
That drill bit was the best thing ever invented? I thought Fire was first and the wheel was second.
HA! You gotta admit that drill bit is awesome when you need to get inside a plastic pipe and cut it out!
Can you add a small amount of food coloring to check for possible leaks? Thank you
When you're done flush a few times and see if water is coming out from under the toilet. If no water comes out then you're good to go.
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 well the idea being before you start removing the tank, bowl and all, some food coloring (or similar safe colorant) is added to the tank water, flush a time or two, then look for where the water might be dripping, seeping from. Then start the removal & repair steps. Thank you
@@j.lietka9406 yes that’s a good idea. You can see where any fresh drips are coming from .
Sorry sir!! That would be a big, hearty NO!! Penalty of life in prison for adding that food coloring!!
links to what you use?
Got all my stuff t my local plumbing supply shop here in Seattle. Home Depot probably has everything you need as well.
Very good video but shouldn't you go below the toilet to check for leaks before you call it a success? I noticed that most of these install videos leave this step out.
Yes indeed if the toilet is on the second floor.
Doesn't the front of that flange need shims? Doesn't look like it's setting on the finished floor but the back is.
No I've never heard of anyone shimming a toilet flange. It needs to be flat to the floor.
I see what your saying, but that minor angle (exaggerated by the camera 'fisheye') is more than adequately compensated for by the wax ring.
The important thing is that the flange is adequately secured to the floor, which overall must be in good, solid condition, enabling the toilet to be held fast to the floor, with a wax ring preventing any moisture from between the mating surfaces
@@mechantics yes that’s right!
Concrete floor?
This is not a concrete floor. If it was I would need to pre drill holes where the screws are going to go for the flange then vacuum the dust out and glue wood rods or toothpicks into that hole the I could screw down the flange.
What if you have a cement floor?
Paul you will need to mark exactly where the screws are going to go then drill a hole in the concrete. A good size hole at least 1/4" tp 1/2" wide. Vacuum out the dust then glue a wood dowel rod or tooth picks into the hole. Now you have something to screw to!
just use s/s tapcons they come in flat head
@@butchs2337 never used them. I’ll have to check them out .
Amazon sells a flange that you just slide in the old flange an it works
That sounds pretty cool. I’ll have to check it out.
Wait, did you skip the part using the cool saw blade?
Sorry Paul. I showed the blade and how it works but did not video myself cutting it out. But its a pretty simple step to understand.
What's the name of the bit
@@lukeyancey980 not exactly sure but any plumbing supply shop will have it.
@@lukeyancey980 it’s called PVC inside pipe cutter,
Um, no new bolts???
Had to reuse the old ones.
Why? The new wax rings come with the bolts never reuse the bolts 🤦♂️
I would recommend you superglue the rubber gasket to the bottom of the flange. If you ever have to repair the flange or remove it, the red rubber has a nasty habit of coming off and staying stuck down in the pipe and you have to dig it out. Also spend a few bucks more and get a wax free seal, they work so much better and no messy wax to contend with!
Right on Jason. Thanks for the tip.
Under what conditions or circumstances should you not use a non-wax seal?
@@AlkalineInsides never used one but I like the idea of it. As long as it’s the right size!
Don’t you have to caulk the toilet base ?
Yes indeed. Caulk around the base of the toilet when your'e done.
@@diywithcontractorken.6124 thanks 👍
Absolutely NOT. That is the absolute worst idea that anyone has ever come up with. If you ever have to go back behind someone who has done that and uninstall that toilet, you'll know what I'm talking about. If the flange, ring and toilet are installed correctly, there is no need for that AT ALL.
I'm removing the toilet in the house we recently purchased, primarily because of the caulked outer perimeter or, more specifically, what that caulk likely was used for; hiding a leak between the toilet and floor
Dude okley makes a better plastic flange you tighten with Allen wrench that's even better then that home Depot special you used
Why didn’t you cut the new flooring so the flange would be even?why didn’t you cut the new flooring si it would sit on subfloor and be even with floor?
The flage is to sit on top of finished floor.
Floor was already done when I got there. That's the way it is sometimes.
My flooring is sunken 1:53 therefore.thebpipe is too ,so ima need an extension or something
It looked like the flange was sitting partly on the new flooring and partly on the sub-floor. Maybe that was just the angle of the camera that made it look that way. But if it was, would it be a good idea to put shims on the sub-floor side of where the flange sits to make it level with the finished floor? Thanks for the video.
@@TheHedgemo60Yes, ideally something that cannot, will not move or rot/shrink over time.
I wish you would of showed your work in the video step-by-step, would of been better.
I try to as best I can. I have the headset and tripod now so futures videos will be more detailed.
Did you get poop on your fingers
Cut the floor out right so the flange sits level
The flange can sit on top of the floor and the top of it will be about 1/4" above the floor. Doesn't need to be recessed into the floor.